the garden spade - university of missouriextension.missouri.edu/butler/documents/mg/garden...

Fa l l I s A Great Time To Test So i l

B y K a t i e K a m m l e r

In this issue:

Fall Is A Great

Time To Test Soil

1-2

The Proof Is In

The Pudding

2

October

Gardening

Calendar

3

Protecting Your

Vegetables From

Frost

3

Therapy Gardens 4-5

Local Favorite

Plants

5

2012 Mo State

Master Gardener

Conference

6-8

Pest of the Month:

Spider Mites

8

Group News -

What’s Happening!

9

Editor’s Corner 10

A monthly Gardening Publication of the University of Missouri Extension -- Southeast and East Central Regions

October 2012

The Garden Spade

send it to the University of Missouri Soil Testing Lab. The standard testing fee is

usually around $15 for most county offices. A written report of results and

recommendations (similar to what is shown above) based on the crop(s) you

selected will be mailed to you as soon as it is completed. The normal time

frame for results is around two weeks so if you are planning some yard and

garden projects, plan your soil test accordingly. Don’t wait until the last minute

because lime or sulfur applications can take 6 months to a year to alter pH.

What will a soil test tell you? It will give you the pH of the soil and recommend

how much lime or sulfur to apply (if necessary - some gardens don’t need either)

for the plants you have chosen. It will also tell you the amounts of phosphorus,

potassium, calcium and magnesium that are currently in the soil. It will also tell

University of Missouri, Lincoln

University, U.S. Department of

Agriculture & Local University

Extension Councils Cooperating

EQUAL OPPORTUNITY/ADA

INSTITUTIONS

When a gardener calls in with garden or landscape problems, the first question

an Extension Agent asks is “Have you had a soil test lately?” So, why soil test???

The Soil is the basis for growth in all plants, providing nutrients, water, and

support. Testing your soil gives you a starting point and guide for what the soil

needs added or changed in order to grow better plants. All gardeners should be

on this quest to improve their soil. Healthy soils equal healthy plants.

To take a soil sample, collect slender columns of soil 6 inches in depth (6 - 8

inches is the basic root zone of many plants) from various places in the yard or

garden. Mix all the samples together in a clean bucket or container and bring

about two cups worth to your local extension office. At the extension office,

we will ask questions about past soil treatment and uses of the soil. Then we

The Garden Spade

Secondar y Stor y Head l ine

The Proof i s in the Pudd ing

B y G e o r g i a N e i l , P a r k l a n d M a s t e r G a r d e n e r

For the last 10 years I’ve planted my veggie garden,

always fighting a fungus that attacks my peppers and

tomatoes. I don’t know if it is blight or septoria

but I was really tired of it.

I had been talking with my egg lady (thank you

Margaret) and she told me she had heard if you

plant turnips that would break the fungal cycle, so I

decided to experiment.

I planted the whole garden

in turnips’. It looked like a

carpet, it was so thick. I

grow my own veggie plants.

This year I soaked my

tomato seed in warm water

before planting it, discarding

the water I soaked it in. I

also bought 12 tomato

plants to see if I could bring

the fungus in from

elsewhere. I have always

rotated my crops. My peppers always followed my

tomatoes. This year I also cleaned off all the brown

tomato leaves, throwing away bags and bags.

Because of the heat I made a tent with old sheets

over my tomato plants, which made it a pinch

cooler for them. I also heavily mulched’ and

watered by hand below instead of above with the

sprinkler like I use to.

It is now August and I have fungus on my tomato

and pepper plants.

So---my conclusion of the turnip experiment is as

follows---

Did it work 100%? No.

Did it slow down the fungus? I believe so.

Am I happy with my

results? You bet, even with

the summer heat I got at

least 200 pounds of

tomatoes. The pepper plants

looked great. They didn’t

give me a lot of bell peppers

because of the heat.

Will I plant turnips again?

Yes, but not as thick as I did

last fall.

I think with the turnips and better

housekeeping in the garden (such as pulling off

all the green leaves from the bottom when

planting next year) that the fungus, if present,

will stay away longer.

I hope this helps all those as desperate and

discouraged as I was.

you the organic matter of the soil.

The higher the number, the less

fertilizer you are going to need.

Adding organic matter to your soil

can improve the soil by increasing

water holding capacity, fertility,

tilth, and encouraging beneficial

organisms. Then the test will give

specific recommendations on how

Fa l l I s A Great Time To So i l Test

B y K a t i e K a m m l e r

much nitrogen, phosphorous and

potassium to use to fertilize your

chosen crops.

Most importantly, if you have any

questions, the number of your

local extension specialist is listed

on the bottom of the results page!

October Garden ing Ca lendar

B y D o n n a A u f d e n b e r g

The Garden Spade

Protect Your

Vegetables from

Frost

Southeast Missouri’s

first average frost date

can be as early as mid-

October or as late as

mid–November.

Regardless, in order to

prolong/protect

vegetable production

well into the fall,

gardeners need to be

prepared for a frost

event.

Protection can be

accomplished by

covering plants with

materials like straw,

bed linens, old

tablecloths and

lightweight blankets.

This traps the heat that

is radiating from the

ground.

To get the full benefit

of frost protection

materials, plants need

to be covered before

temperatures drop.

The covering needs to

reach the ground

Don't leave the plants

covered for a few days

when the weather calls

for more than one

night of frost. The

protection needs to be

taken off every

morning when the sun

comes out. Plants can

easily overheat.

Ornamentals

Buy flowering bulbs now for good selection but do not plant until mid to late

November when the ground has cooled.

Continue watering shrubs and trees if soils are

dry and no rain has occurred.

Transplant trees and shrubs once they have

dropped their leaves.

Trees may be fertilized at the end of this month.

Fertilizing is best done according to a soil test.

Be sure to clean up from around your perennial flowers, such as rose and

peony. If left on the ground, leaves and stems can harbor diseases and

provide convenient places for pests to spend the winter.

Your trees and shrubs have begun to harden for the upcoming cold weather.

To encourage this, remove mulch from around shrubs and trees.

Lawns

Seeding should be finished by the end of October.

Continue mowing lawns until growth stops.

Keep leaves raked off lawns to prevent smothering grass.

Now is a good time to apply lime if soil tests indicate the need.

Fall is the time to control certain broadleaf weeds in the lawn including

chickweed, white clover, dandelion, wild onion and plantain.

Vegetables

Clean up garden debris after frost such as tomato plants, squash vines, or

pepper plants that might have had disease foliage.

The average frost date for Southeast Missouri is October 15-20.

Plant radishes, sets for greens, lettuce and spinach for late harvest if winter is

mild enough.

Harvest crops such as tomatoes, peppers, eggplant, melon, and sweet

potatoes before frost or cover with blankets to protect them from light

frost.

Harvest mature, green tomatoes before frost and ripen indoors. Individually

wrap fruits in newspaper to keep them for several weeks.

Fruits

Look for ripened persimmons after the first frost has occurred.

Place wire guards around trunks of young fruit trees for protection against

mice and rabbits.

Miscellaneous

Autumn is a good time to add manure, compost or leaf mold to garden soils

for increasing organic matter content

Fall color season begins. By mid-October, we should be in peak fall color.

The Garden Spade


It is an idea that has been used in the healthcare

industry for many years, becoming more popular as

research continues to confirm the benefits.

Therapeutic gardens help with fine motor skills,

strength, range of motion, balance, memory,

cognition and problem solving. These gardens help

people who use them focus on abilities and not dis-

abilities. These gardens

are designed from the

start with therapy in

mind. Not only can

they be therapeutic to

the mind and soul but

also gardens can be

created with physical

therapy in mind.

Home gardeners can

bring this concept into

their own gardens using

therapy as the theme. It is all about design and

planning for the purpose which is intended.

By design gardens should be relaxing places for the

mind. This is

accomplished by using

bright flowers, varied

plant heights and

textures in foliage and in

hard materials.

Relaxation can further

be enhanced by using

plants with fragrance or

those that attract

wildlife such as

butterflies,

hummingbirds and

larger birds.

A final component that must be planned ahead of

time is using materials to create spaces for physical

therapy. For example, if confined to a wheelchair

beds can be planned that allow the person in the

chair to place the chair under the bed and work

with plants as if they were at a table. If balance is

an issue, then raised beds can be created that allow

the user to sit on them and care for the plants

without standing or stooping. At therapy centers

sidewalks are designed with varied textures to

provide diverse walking experiences. This can be

incorporated at home by

selecting the texture that is

easiest for the user to

navigate. The same can be

said for the seating areas.

Use a texture that is both

functional and comfortable.

Before starting, decide

what the purpose will be

for the garden. This will

help decide how many

raised beds there will be

and what shape they will take. Decide on textures

for the walkway. Should they be concrete, brick or

will mulch or rock work. This will depend on the

person using them. Make sure the paths are wide

enough for everyone to

use. If they will be

accessed by a wheelchair

leave enough room for the

chair to turn around, 5 ft.

Plants are the easiest part

of planning. Choose plants

that offer something for all

the senses; sight, smell,

taste, touch and sound.

Many herbs will fit all these

criteria. The picture below

shows Stachys byzantia or

Lambs Ears. This plant has a soft, furry texture that

is interesting both visually and when touched. In

this way it serves double duty as a therapeutic

plant.

Therapy Gardens

b y S a r a h D e n k l e r

Zimmerman Sensory Garden at the Missouri Botanical Garden

The Garden Spade


Other plants that add to one or more of the senses

include:

Alchemilla mollis; Lady's Mantle, a perennial with

mounds of velvety green foliage. (Sight) - shown

top

Allium schoenoprasum; Chives, a perennial that

produces pink, mauve or purple flowers with

foliage that can be used in salads. (Smell/Taste)

Beta vulgaris ‘Bright Lights’; Swiss chard, an

annual with bright stems and foliage.

(Sight/Taste)

Briza maxima; Quaking Grass, an annual

grass with nodding seeds that rustle in the

wind. (Sound)

Buddleia davidii 'Ile de France';

Butterfly Bush, a 5ft perennial shrub that

attracts butterflies with late summer

blooms. (Sight/Smell)

Cosmos atrosanguineus; Chocolate

Cosmos, an annual with maroon

flowers and a chocolate/vanilla scent.

(Smell)

Fothergilla gardenia; Dwarf

Fothergilla, a 3ft shrub that blooms

showy, fragrant flowers early

spring. (Sight/Smell)

Galium odoratum; Sweet

Woodruff, a perennial that blooms

in April but has fragrant leaves.

(Smell)

Helichrysum italicum; Curry

Plant, an annual with fuzzy, gray

leaves with a spicy aroma on a

warm, sunny day. (Sight/Smell)

Lathyrus odoratus; Sweet Pea, an annual vine with

strong, sweet scented flowers. (Smell/Taste)

Lavandula angustifolia'Munstead'; English

Lavender, a perennial with a fresh aroma and tiny

purple flowers. (Smell)

Melissa officinalis; Lemon Balm, a perennial with

fragrant flowers. (Smell)

Mentha x piperita; Peppermint, a perennial with

very fragrant foliage. It is aggressive. (Smell)

Mentha spicata; Spearmint, a perennial whose

flowers attract butterflies. It is vigorous and has

fragrant foliage. (Smell/Taste)

Nepeta mussinii; Catmint, a perennial with fuzzy,

aromatic foliage. (Smell/Touch)

Origanum majorana; Sweet Marjoram, an

aromatic evergreen herb. (Smell/Taste)

Origanum vulgare; Wild Marjoram has aromatic

leaves that produce pink or white flowers

midsummer. (Smell/Taste)

Pelargonium crispum; Lemon Scented

Geranium, an annual with crinkly leaves that

smell of lemon when rubbed. (Smell)

Pennisetum alopecuroides; Fountain Grass,

a 2ft perennial grass with fall color. (Sight)

Salvia argentea; Silver sage, a

perennial with large, silver leaves

covered in fuzz. (Touch)

Salvia elegans; Pineapple Sage, an

annual with scented foliage. (Smell)

Salvia officinalis; Common Sage, a

perennial with aromatic foliage and

purple/pink flowers. (Smell)

Stachys byzantine; Lamb's Ears,

an evergreen perennial that has

fuzzy gray leaves. (Touch)

Tagetes lemmonii; Mount Lemmon

Marigold, an annual shrub with very

aromatic foliage. (Smell)

Tagetes lucida; Licorice Marigold,

an annual shrub with licorice scent

and taste. (Smell)

Thymus pseudolanuginosus; Hall's

Wooly Thyme, a perennial with pink flowers in

summer that attract butterfly. (Sight) - shown left

Thymus vulgaris; Thyme, a perennial with

evergreen fragrant foliage. (Smell)

Tropaeolum majus; Nasturtium, an annual with

orange, red or yellow flowers. (Taste)

Viburnum carlesii; Korean Spice Viburnum, a 6ft

shrub blooms fragrant flowers early spring. (Smell)

Picture of Koreanspice Viburnum courtesy

of Missouri Botanical Gardens

Therapy Gardens

b y S a r a h D e n k l e r

The Garden Spade




We attended the Missouri State Master Gardener

Conference in Sedalia, MO and we had a great

time! Friday events included a Pre-Conference

Morgan County Mennonite Tour and a “get to

know each other” event on Friday evening with

snacks and wine. Unfortunately, we were unable to

attend the tour, however,

everyone around us who did

attend enjoyed it very much.

Saturday was the Garden Tours

Day. We chose the Cooper

County Tour. The tour visited

the Thomas Hickman House.

They say it has been remodeled

and is worth touring if you get the

chance. After stopping at

Boonville for some donuts and coffee, we got to

tour the Horticulture Agroforestry Research

Center where Professors and students from the

University of Missouri have a great opportunity to

try out different experimentations with

plants. We saw various experiments

with chestnut trees, walnut trees, pine

trees, and apple trees.

After the research center, we traveled

back to Boonville and ate lunch at the

casino. Then we toured High Street

Victorian Bed and Breakfast, historical

Hotel Frederick, and small gardens at

the town. The bed and breakfast had a

gorgeous garden in the back with a small

pond, trellises, and roses. Celosia and

zinnias were just a few of the annuals that were

incorporated into this garden. Boonville is a

beautiful town, and we enjoyed walking up and

down the streets. The Master Gardeners maintain

small gardens throughout the town.

(Lora) I have always struggled with big ideas in small

spaces. This gorgeous garden showed me that I can

incorporate all of my gardening ideas in my space

on a much smaller scale. The small pond especially

inspired me.

After touring Boonville, we got back on the bus and

traveled to Warm Springs Ranch which is the

breeding operation for the Budweiser Clydesdales.

These animals are very well taken

care of; I told my animals that if

they could pull a Budweiser

wagon, they might have the same

treatment. The mares are left on

pasture with barns in case they

need to get out of the rain. All the

hay is delivered by one company

out of another state. They

remove the mares from fescue

long before foaling. They have a

breeding room, a clinic stall, a foaling stable, and

the Stallion stable. The horses even have a bathing

room. The stallions are not on pasture, but are in

exercise paddocks for several hours a day.

That evening, we enjoyed dinner and a

presentation by Alan Branhagen, Director

of Horticulture at Powell Gardens. He

explained the history of Powell Gardens,

how it has changed over the years, and

introduction of new gardens at Powell.

One of the most exciting new gardens to

me was the Heartland Harvest Garden.

It is an edible landscape that encompasses

12 acres. The garden includes apples,

pears, figs, berries, etc. After the

presentation, I also learned about

companion planting under fruit trees. Mr.

Branhagen informed me that chives, clover,

strawberries, rugosa roses, lemon balm, and anise

hyssop were good companions for apple trees.

Mints, fennel, monarda, and mountain mints were

excellent companions for pear trees.

Sunday was the educational session. The first

session Lora and I both attended was “From Dirt

2012 Missour i State Master Gardener Conference

b y J e s s i c a G r i f f i n a n d L o r a R e i n e r , M a s t e r G a r d e n e r s

Warm Spring Ranch—Budweiser Clydesdales

Big Ideas in a Small Space!

The Garden Spade


to the Dinner Table” presented by Earlene

Britton. Earlene and her husband can, freeze, and dry

their garden produce every year and are now selling

some of their produce to local restaurants! They use

a furrowing technique early in the season where they

have hills to plant their produce. This allows the soil

to be planted earlier as it dries out faster. During the

year, the soil will level out. She

explained the seven basic

requirements for plants:

temperature, light, water, air,

nutrients, time, and room to grow.

They also practice crop rotation

so that crops that may need more

nitrogen, such as corn, are

preceded by a legume. This

rotation allows crops to receive

the nutrients they need from the soil. It also helps

suppress diseases if performed on a three year basis.

Earlene also discussed preservation with canning,

freezing and drying.

The next class I (Jessica) took was “The Chemistry

of Composting” by Jack Hayes. Composting is the

breakdown of soil’s materials, and it is alive with

organisms. It changes the texture and composition of

soil. Good compost is between

120 to 130 degrees Fahrenheit.

Soil is like an inverted bucket,

where water makes a layer

around the outside. When

making compost, remember that

invertebrates breakdown the

materials and water is important

for the microbes to do their job.

Your compost can be turned to

rotate the surface area that the

critters are actively working on.

That way, all the material in your pile gets composted

quicker, especially around the edges. The materials

that are included in your pile all have a carbon to

nitrogen ratio. The optimum carbon to nitrogen

ratio is 30:1. However, if you are not that energetic,

remember greens and browns. Green materials, such

as grass clippings and kitchen wastes are high in

nitrogen. Brown materials, such as straw and fallen

leaves are higher in carbon. I did learn that there is a

study on composting plastic. It is possible, per Mr.

Burns, but it takes a very long time.

I have to say that my favorite class

was the “Far Out and Refreshing

Fruits, Nuts, and Berries” by

Barbara Fechenhier. Barbara is an

energetic and knowledgeable speaker.

She works at Powell Gardens and is

also a beekeeper. During the class,

she recommended varieties of

different fruits, nuts, and berries that

are not in the mainstream home

gardens right now. She also gave us

the name of two nurseries that have supplied healthy

plants: One Green World and Raintree Nursery.

Almond trees are in the peach family and will produce

in two to three years for the cultivars ‘Reliable’ and

‘Halls Hardy’. Hazelnuts are self-fertile, eight foot

center shrubs. The cultivars to try are ‘Delta’ and

‘Gamma’. Paw paws are pollinated by beetles and flies.

They ripen early September. When they turn a light

shade of yellow, put in a paper bag to

finish ripening. They are also a host

plant for the zebra swallowtail.

I (Lora) attended the Vertical

Gardening class given by Alice

Longfellow. Because I have very

limited gardening space I found this

class to be very interesting. The

technique seemed simple and is a

definite space saver but due to the hot

dry summers we have had I am a little

concerned about adequate watering. One kit that Alice

showed us was a free standing 4’ H X 3’ W garden

with a drip irrigation system included. With a vertical

garden I believe watering will be the greatest concern,

still if you have limited space I would definitely suggest

researching this technique on the internet.



Small Garden in Boonville, Missouri

Large garden area maintained by Boonville Mas-

ter Gardeners

The Garden Spade


Do you have plants that have a peppering of light

dots on the leaves? If so you probably have spider

mites which flourish in the hot dry conditions that

we have experienced all summer. As feeding

continues, the leaves will turn yellow or bronze in

color and drop off. If the infestation is heavy

enough, leaves and branches can

be enclosed in fine silken webbing.

They can cause premature loss of

leaves on fruit trees, possibly

adversely affecting the next year’s

crop. On annual vegetable crops,

the loss of leaves can have a

serious impact on production.

You may not realize that you have a problem until

you see the damage because spider mites are very

small, about 1/20th to 1/60th of an inch long. They

are eight-legged arthropods that may be brown,

red, green or cream colored. They live in colonies,

mostly on the underside of leaves. You can

determine if you have mites by holding a piece of

white paper underneath a branch or shoot and

shake the branch. Then if you see tiny moving

specks on the paper, you have spider mites.

Garden plants that are typically susceptible to mites

are asparagus, beans, melons and squash and other

cucurbits, peas, tomatoes and strawberries, as well

as several weed species. Some landscaped trees and

shrubs that are often attacked are arborvitae,

azalea, cotoneaster, crabapple, linden, mountain

ash, rose, spruce and walnut.

Houseplants are also a host for

spider mites.

Several forms of control are

available to get rid of spider mite

problems. Biological control

measures are the natural enemies

that feed on spider mites including

ladybug beetles, lacewing larvae, some thrip species,

minute pirate bugs, and predatory mites. Cultural

control involves keeping your plant healthy. Spider

mites flourish on plants that are stressed. There

are many chemical control measures available to

control mites, just make sure the product is labeled

for mites and the name of the host plant is listed

before making a pesticide application. Also

alternate the product that you use so the mites

don’t develop a tolerance for it.

Pest o f the Month : Sp ider Mites

b y K a t i e K a m m l e r



I also attended the Natives for Sun, Shade &

Everything in Between given by Mervin Wallace.

I have just recently become interested in planting

natives. Because I have such a small garden space

many of the most popular plants get too large to

put in my yard. Mervin gave us each a 2012

Missouri Wildflowers Nursery Catalog. This catalog

will help me tremendously. It gives the light needs

for each plant, the growth height and spacing

requirements and has the most beautiful pictures of

each plant. I have struggled in past years trying to

keep plants alive that are not native to Missouri, so

I am looking forward to trying many of the smaller

natives to see if they will help my gardens be more

successful year after year.

(Lora) The 2012 Missouri Master Gardener

Conference in my opinion was a success. We can

never expect that a gathering of this size will come

off without a hitch, but I thoroughly enjoyed myself

and learned a lot that I will incorporate into my

gardens. I would like to thank the Ozark Prairie

Master Gardeners of Morgan County, the Show-Me

Master Gardeners of Pettis County, the Benton

County Master Gardeners and the Boonslick

Master Gardeners of Cooper County for a very

enjoyable learning experience.

Sun Mon Tue Wed Thu Fri Sat

1 2 3 4 5 6

7 8 9 10 11 12 13

14 15 16 17 18 19 20

21 22 23 24 25 26 27

28 29 30 31

The Garden Spade

October 2012

Group News - What ’s Happen ing

T h e

G a r d e n

S pa d e

Perry Co. MG 6:30 pm,

Perry Co. Ext. Center

November

5 - Parkland MGs 1st Monday at 6:30pm, Botkin Lumber CO, Frmngtn Industrial Park

6 - Poplar Bluff MGs 1st Tuesday at 6:00pm, Butler County Ext. Center

8 - Delta Area MGs 2nd Thursday at 7:00pm, Medical Arts Building, Sikeston, MO

15 - Cape Girardeau County MGs 3rd Thursday at Cape County Ext. Center at 7pm

19 - Ste. Genevieve MGs 3rd Monday, at Ste. Gen. County Ext. Center at 6:30pm

26 - Perry County MGs 4th Monday at the Perry County Ext. Center at 6:30pm

Parkland MG, 6:30pm @

Botkin Lumber Co. in

If you have a horticultural related event for the calendar call 573-686-8064 to add it.

Contact your local Extension Center if you have

questions about any event on the calendar.

Upcoming Events

February 26 - Organic Vegetable Garden Program; Poplar Bluff, MO

March 2 - Garden Symposium; Mineral Area College in Park Hills, MO

Poplar Bluff MG, 6:00pm

Butler Ext. Center

Ste. Genevieve MG

Meeting, 6:30pm, at the Ste.

Genevieve Co. Ext. Center

Bollinger County Fair - The

Ball Field in Marble Hill, MO

Cape Girardeau Co MGs,

7pm, Cape Co. Ext. Center

Madison County Fair - Azalea Park in Fredericktown, MO.

Entries must be in by 6:30pm on Friday.

Best of Missouri Market at Missouri Botanical Garden on

October 5-7 in St. Louis

Great River Road

Chestnut Roast - Elsberry,

MO 573-898-5571

The Garden Spade is published monthly by University of Missouri Extension staff for individuals and families living in Southeast and

East Central Missouri. This newsletter is provided by your local extension council.

Editors:

Katie Kammler, Plant Science Specialist

255 Market St., Ste. Genevieve, MO 63670

573-883-3548

Sarah Denkler, Horticulture Specialist

222 North Broadway Street, Poplar Bluff, MO 63901

573-686-8064

Donna Aufdenberg, Horticulture Specialist

304 High Street, PO Box 19, Marble Hill, MO 63764

573-238-2420

Editor ’s Corner

We welcome and encourage Master Gardener groups

and individuals to submit items to the newsletter. We

encourage the submission of any news such as

upcoming volunteer opportunities, community events

related to gardening, warm wishes or congratulations to

fellow gardeners. We also encourage Master

Gardeners sharing experiences and writing articles on

timely topics.

All entries into the group news sections must be

received by 4:30 on the15th of each month for the

following months news.

Email News to: [email protected],

[email protected], or [email protected]

Disclaimer: No special endorsement of mentioned products is intended, nor is criticism implied of similar

products not mentioned.

University of Missouri, Lincoln University, U.S. Department of Agriculture & Local University Extension Councils Cooperating EQUAL OPPORTUNITY/ADA INSTITUTIONS

Butler County Extension

222 North Broadway

Poplar Bluff, MO 63901

October 2012 Garden Spade

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