the garden spade - university of missouriextension.missouri.edu/butler/documents/spade/2012...

Freez ing Remains a Threat

B y D o n n a A u f d e n b e r g

In this issue:

Freezing Remains

A Threat

1,2

Hot Topic! Pests

Get a Jump Start!

2

April Gardening

Calendar

3

Composting Tips 3

Garden with Youth

in Mind

4

Free Range

Poultry in Gardens

5

Tree Wound Care 6

Composting Issues 7

Native Plants -

Garden Phlox

8

Spring Flowers

Circle a Word

8

Group News -

What’s Happening!

9

Editor’s Corner 10

A monthly Gardening Publication of the University of Missouri Extension -- Southeast and East Central Regions

April 2012

The Garden Spade

Canada this winter.” Guinan also

cautions that freezes can vary across

local terrain. Low temperatures can

vary by more than 10 degrees from

the bottom of a valley to a nearby

hilltop. Urban areas tend to be

warmer than rural areas.

A major concern is the

fruit trees and small fruit

crops. A freeze at this

point would eliminate

the chance of having

even a decent crop this

year. “There’s a

problem with that

beautiful scene of the fruit crop

blooming. There could be a lot of

dead flower buds with major crop

loss if temperatures plummet,”

Michelle Warmund said after working

with her fruit trees and berry

brambles at the MU horticultural

plots.

Most cool season plants such as

cabbage, cauliflower, lettuce, spinach

and radishes are traditionally planted

during this time and can handle a frost

and some freezing. Warm season

crops such as tomatoes, peppers,

eggplant, corn, and beans are

commonly planted in the latter part

of April into May and they can’t

tolerate a frost not to mention a

freeze. Gardeners need to consider

University of Missouri, Lincoln

University, U.S. Department of

Agriculture & Local University

Extension Councils Cooperating

equal opportunity/ADA

institutions

The weather has been amazing during

the last several weeks especially when

you consider it’s only March! It has

many of us gardeners asking “Could

we have another freeze or frost

event?” With daytime temperatures in

the 70-80s and lows in the 50s, it

makes a gardener

tempted to go ahead and

plant garden!

Our last average frost

date for Southeast

Missouri is April 15, but

freezes and frosts are

not unheard of past late

April. They are still very possible, so

we are definitely not in the clear of the

danger.

Who wouldn’t love the beautiful

blooming trees and the lush green

growth of perennials, shrubs and trees.

While all gardeners welcome these

wonderful signs of spring, we have to

keep in mind that a freeze at this point

might prove devastating similar to that

of the Spring Freeze of 2007. Many

dollars in crop loss hit orchards, grape

growers, and blueberry growers as

well as agricultural farmers with hay

fields and newly sprouted corn.

MU Extension Climatologist, Pat

Guinan states “Arctic blasts could

return with a slight shift in the jet

stream, which has stayed well north in

Freeze Damage on Oak (Picture

from the University of Tennessee)

The Garden Spade

Secondar y Stor y Head l ine

planting warmer season crops after April 15.

Trees and shrubs are blooming and leafing out way

ahead of schedule. They seem to be three weeks

ahead of what is considered “normal.” This can be

dangerous for many plants. After the freeze of 2007,

many plants showed evidence of

severe damage to the cambium and

bark, leading to dieback, bark splitting

and weak growth of buds and shoots.

Some trees and shrubs were killed

back to or near the ground, with

suckers arising from the soil line or

lower trunk.

So, what can one do to protect their

plants from a hard frost or freeze?

If you haven’t planted yet, begin by

planting only frost tolerant

vegetables and annuals this early in

the season.

Using a frost blanket can gain you 2-4 degrees F

(depending on the thickness). These thin white

spun bound covers are light weight and are laid

over plants. They utilize the heat that radiates

from the ground to keep the plants warmer.

Grandma’s old method of covering plants with

blankets and sheets can also work just as long as

the fabric remains dry.

A wall of water which is a cone-shaped ring of

connected tubes filled with water surrounding a

single plant can generate enough heat to

keep plants safe in below freezing

temperatures.

If using plastic to cover plants, it

needs to be held up off the plants or it

will freeze the plants where it touches

them. Plastic can be used over a wire

frame or over hoops to make a low

tunnel.

Unfortunately, if a freeze occurs, damage

will happen to many plants that we cannot

protect. We just have to hope for the best

and prune out the damage once growth

resumes.

With luck, hopefully a freeze will not happen and most

gardeners will be happy to have an extended Spring!

Freez ing Remains a Threat

b y D o n n a A u f d e n b e r g

Wall of Water (Picture from

Colorado Extension)

Frost Blanket (Picture from the

University of Maine Extension)

Hot Top ic ! Pests Get a Jump Star t !

b y D o n n a A u f d e n b e r g

Due to our unusually warm start to spring, we are

now starting to see an overwhelming amount of

various pests around flower beds and lawns.

This early warm up speeds up the

development of weeds as well as insects,

experts say. They are warning that extra

scouting will be needed to manage weeds,

insects as well as diseases during this garden

season.

Aphid populations are rapidly increasing on the new

succulent growth of many plants. Gardeners are

already seeing adult stinkbugs and squash bugs

emerging from their winter safe haven.

Many gardeners have been reporting

overwhelming amounts of henbit, deadnettle

and chickweed. Summer weeds such as

crabgrass have already been seen germinating

in lawns so if you’re late in getting pre-

emergent herbicide down, you might as well

forget it and take a post-emergent approach.

Gardeners who try to plant early gardens may not

be early enough this year to avoid some of the pest

Apri l Gardening Ca lendar


The Garden Spade

Composting Tips

Don’t throw out

your kitchen scraps

- add them to your

compost pile!

Bigger is better!

Piles need to be 5x5

x3 feet high or

bigger to break

down organic

matter.

Aeration is

important! Make

sure to turn your

pile.

Don’t let the pile

completely dry out

but don’t keep it

too wet.

Too much of one

material will slow

the compost

process down. Mix

greens with browns.

Cut up large pieces

of kitchen refuge so

it is easier for

microbes to break it

down.

Vegetable and fruit

pieces exposed

generally do not

break down - cover

them up!

For more

information, see MU

Guide G6956

Outdoor Plants and Ornamentals

Winter mulches should be removed from roses.

Plants bought out of greenhouses need to be hardened off before planting.

Lift, divide, and replant mums as soon as new shoots appear.

Scatter annual poppy seeds in flower borders. The fine seeds need no

covering. The plants grow rapidly and provide colorful flowers in early

summer.

Plant dahlia tubers as soon as the danger of

frost is passed. Stake at the time of planting

to avoid injury to tubers.

Cut back blooming shrubs right after they

have bloomed

Vegetable Gardening

Plants started indoors should be hardened off outdoors before being

transplanted into the garden.

Plastic jugs make inexpensive and easy-to-use “hot caps” for your vegetable

seedlings.

Plant warm season vegetables in the garden after the chance of frost has

passed.

Make succession sowings of cool season crops.

Flower stalks should be removed from rhubarb plants, if they develop.

Keep your hoe sharp! Don’t allow weeds to get an early start in your

garden.

Fruits and Nuts

Plant bare-root or potted fruits as soon as the soil can be worked.

Remove tree wraps from fruit trees now.

Protect bees and other pollinating insects. Do not spray insecticides on fruit

trees that are blooming.

Indoor plants

Time to repot house plants and trim them if overgrown.

Prevent stem rot of house plants by potting up plants on a slight mound with

the soil sloping 1/4 inch lower at the edge of the pot.

Don’t overpot African Violets. They bloom better in small pots.

Don’t be too anxious to move your house plants outdoors. Even a good

chill can knock the leaves off of tender plants.

Turfgrass

Start mowing cool season grasses at recommended heights.

Aerate turf if thatch is heavy or if soil is compacted.

The Garden Spade The Garden Spade Page 4


There is not a garden club or society that does not

focus part of their educational efforts on youth. It is

true that habits established during youth will last for

a life time. The prospect of passing down garden

knowledge to a new

generation and seeing the

fascination that children have

with nature can inspire the

most experienced among us.

Children have an interesting

perspective when it comes to

the world around them.

Objects that an adult finds

ordinary a child may see as

‘larger than life’. Colors

excite children as do smell

and touch. Their imagination

can create a day of

excitement and adventure in

a garden, especially if it is

designed to catch their

attention.

When designing a landscape

for a child keep in mind that a shrub or perennial

that grows six feet tall may make a great hideout for

a toddler. Plants that are fuzzy will speak to a child

and ask them to touch so place them in easy reach

of children. A child may adopt a small plant just

because it lives in their ’space’ or is sized for their

hands. Fragrant plants encourage children to smell

and touch as they move around the yard.

If you don’t have enough room for a vegetable

garden then find small spots in your landscape to put

a few edibles that kids love. If tomatoes are hard to

grow then try a single cherry tomato. Children can

easily pick them off and try them and find it more

fun than eating them from a plate.

If plants with thorns are used they should have a

purpose such as keeping children from going in a

particular direction. Barberry are good for creating

a border that shouldn’t be crossed like those near a

road. Poisonous seeds should be excluded for safety

reasons. Castor bean is a plant that produces a seed

that might be appealing to a child visually but can

cause skin irritation or be harmful if ingested.

Children love to participate in

the garden. It is so easy to

have a child ‘help’ with

gardening at home. Don’t

expect them to be as devoted

to chores as an adult but if

they have a rake or shovel

they will help dig, plant, weed

and harvest right beside

anyone who takes the time to

teach them.

Another great thing about

gardening with children is that

if you don’t already know how

to do something a child will

not make fun as you learn it

together.

Plant seeds indoors or out,

help them to create a row in

the garden that is theirs, let them prune shrubs or

trees and show them why debris is placed in a

compost pile. Talk with them about composting and

show them what is done with the resulting organic

matter. They are like soil, they sponge up the

information like water and may pass it along to

others.

Sources for Youth Gardens:

My first garden (a guide to the world of fun and clever

gardening) - www.urbanext.illinois.edu/firstgarden

National Gardening Association, helping young minds

grow - www.kidsgardening.org

The Missouri Botanical Garden has a place just for

kids. The Doris I. Schnuck Children’s Garden is open

March 31 to October 31 offering activities throughout

the summer or a day of fun on your own.

Garden with Youth in Mind

b y S a r a h D e n k l e r

Photo by Cadence Purdy


The Garden Spade

I live in the country and have lots of fun watching

my chickens, geese, and guineas wandering around

our place. Sometimes they huddle down and sleep

in the sun or summertime shade, but usually they

are BUSY! I’m not always sure what they are

scratching or pecking after or

in the case of the geese,

snipping off. They do find

grubs and other bugs, eat a lot

of weed seeds, and tender

weeds. Last summer I had

chickens jumping to grab

Japanese Beetles from low

hanging hibiscus flowers. And

when I turn soil the hens are

always there hoping they’ll see

a juicy grub. However, I’ve

had mulch spread everywhere

by the scratching, the emerging

pea seedlings cleaned off, the

juiciest tomato ruined and

seeds in rows scattered by the

bird’s habits.

So, it has been either confine

my poultry losing some of

their benefit or develop

some strategies. I

recommend fencing. Chicken

wire is not too expensive,

posts are easy to drive in and

if the wire is at least 4 feet

high you will keep the

chickens (and the rabbits,

too) out most of the time.

A snug though not really attractive gate can be

made by edging the end of the roll of wire with a

1x 4 inch board and lapping it over the fence and

tying the overlap to the fence. I allow the birds to

come into my garden throughout the late fall and

winter. In the spring after I’ve planted and things

are just getting established they are kept out.

Then before the tomatoes come on the poultry are

allowed in again until the tomatoes start to ripen.

( I do give my chickens scrap produce in their

feeding area.) Guineas are not as bad to bother the

produce as the chickens, but they can be

extremely noisy! And the

poultry deliver fertilizer

wherever they go.

In unfenced areas like flower

beds or paths covered with

mulch I often lay down sections

of fencing wire. You can place

wire over direct seeded plants

and remove it before the plants

grow large enough to get caught

in it or leave it until the end of

the season and clean it off with

the other debris. (Store it out of

the weather until next spring.)

Chicken wire sections (it can be

purchased in narrow widths at

many farm stores) or scrap

pieces of 2x4 inch fencing

work very well. Small push-in

posts allow me to make

temporary chicken wire fences

by flower beds. Trellis netting,

row covering, nets used to

cover fruit crops and even old

sheets can be used to

temporarily deter poultry.

Sometimes I place coffee cans

with both ends cut out over

plants that the geese have

noticed. Or three thin dowel sticks stuck in the

ground next to a plant keep the geese from

checking it out. So maybe I’m a bit more tolerant

than some and I am willing to try to resolve the

poultry problem in my garden, but my birds are

free-range.

Free-Range Pou l tr y : Fr iend or Enemy for Gardeners

B y J o y c e B r e w e r , P e r r y v i l l e M a s t e r G a r d e n e r

Benefits of Chicken in the Garden

Organic Insect control - They chase

anything that moves!

Organic Fertilizer

Organic Weed Control

Meat with the Vegetables (at least the

eggs!)


The Garden Spade

Just like when a person receives a wound, trees

with wounds provide opening for pathogens. The

newly uncovered tissues are exposed to canker

pathogens and decay microorganisms that infect

the tree. The

microorganisms digest

tissues that are

responsible for the

nutrient and water

translocation or

structural support,

resulting in unhealthy,

unsightly or unsafe trees.

Proper pruning and

wound treatment can go

a long way to minimize

these issues.

Trees will attempt to

close wounds naturally by forming callus tissue.

The rate of callus formation varies for different

species and is affected by environmental conditions

such as nutrient and water

availability, and wound size.

There are several ways that

callus formation rates can be

enhanced. First, it is

essential to avoid limiting

oxygen availability to the

wounded tissues. Oxygen is

necessary for the proper

healing process to take

place. Therefore painting

the wound with any kind of

material interferes with

oxygen access and can

prevent callus formation

over the wound. Second, if

trees are healthy and planted in well-drained

quality soils, they will heal faster.

Proper pruning will also aid in the healing process.

Trees are pruned for a variety of reasons,

including to develop proper canopy shape or

remove potentially hazardous limbs. Spring to early

summer is the best time to prune because that is

when the tree is most actively growing and will

produce callus

faster. But if there

is a problem prune

it regardless of

time of year.

What branches

should be pruned?

Anything that is

crossed, diseased,

dead or broken.

Branches with

weak branch angles

should also be

removed. The

strongest branch angle is 90 degrees. More acute

angles are structurally weak and prone to breaking

(think Bradford pear). When cutting a large limb

off, start away from the trunk with an undercut and

then cut through on the top to remove the weight.

The final cut is flush with the branch collar, allowing

good callus formation.

Tree Wound Care

b y K a t i e K a m m l e r

Good Wound Healing

Proper Branch Pruning Cuts

Bad Wound Healing


The Garden Spade

Q: Were the USDA plant hardiness zones

changed this year? How can I find out what

zone my garden is in?

A: The U.S. Department of Agriculture released

a new version of its Plant Hardiness Zone Map in

January 2012. This new map uses data measured

over a 30 year time period (1976-2005). The

previous map released in 1990 was based on data

from 1974-1986.

The climate has warmed and many zone

boundaries have shifted northward. Most Missouri

gardens are in a new zone that is 5 degrees

warmer. For example, Fredericktown was

previously classified as Zone 5b and is now in Zone

6a.

An interactive version of the USDA zone map is

available on the web at:

www.planthardiness.ars.usda.gov . Just enter your

zip code and your hardiness zone will be displayed.

Q: I want to plant a vegetable garden this

year but I’m unsure what varieties to buy

and how much to plant. Can you offer any

suggestions?

A: Nothing is more satisfying than harvesting

vegetables that you have grown in your own

garden. I would recommend starting with a small

garden (no larger than 10 x 15) your first year. A

small well tended garden will generally out yield a

larger weed filled or insect ridden plot.

The MU extension offers an excellent publication

“Vegetable Planting Calendar” (MU Guide G 6201)

that will answer planting questions for vegetables in

Missouri. It outlines the quantities, suggested

varieties and times to plant your vegetable seeds or

transplants. This publication may be obtained from

your local extension office or online at:

www.extension.missouri.edu/G6201 .

Do you have a gardening question for a future

column?? Please email your gardening

questions to: [email protected].

Ask A Master Gardener A Garden Column By Sue Pfoertner, Master Gardener

http://www.planthardiness.ars.usda.gov

http://www.extension.missouri.edu/G6201

mailto:[email protected]

The Garden Spade

B ui l d i n g A Be tt e r So i l


The Garden Spade

Nat ive P lants – Garden Ph lox

B y S a r a h D e n k l e r

G R A S S R E W O L F D N I W

S L I D O F F A D Y O W Y O S

U C Y C L A M E N G S A D S A

S S U L O I D A L G M R D E I

E L Y R I S N A E S U F O S N

I I L S U L N A E L I B P O O

L U I N U N R N A F L C U R G

I Q L Q A Z O E R A L A B L E

L N C C W M E E Z Z A Y X S B

A O I E E T E I I A S K D P Y

L J T N S S N N N I G V A I P

L R A A I G I N A W S R L L P

A G I A S A B D L N U S A U O

C S S T S Y L I L R E G I T P

D I A H J C A L A D I U M U S

G R A P E H Y A C I N T H S M

S I L L Y R A M A S U C O R C

Freesias

Gladiolus

Grape Hyacinth

Iris

Jonquils

Stargazer Lily

Allium

Amaryllis

Anemones

Asiatic Lily

Begonias

Blazing Stars

Bulb

Caladium

For the backside of a perennial border, in a native or

cut garden or in a butterfly garden try Garden Phlox

Phlox paniculata. This native flower easily reaches

heights of 4 feet and reseeds itself spreading wider

than the original plant. The flower is a dark pink or

magenta color and fragrant. This plant grows well in

full sun or part shade and makes a visual impact with

an 8 inch bloom. It grows well in zone 4 to 8 and

blooms beginning in July. Soil should be well drained

for best growth.

Ornamental

varieties are

available in many

colors.

Spr ing F lowers - C irc le A Word

B y L e a h W a r n , M a s t e r G a r d e n e r T r a i n e e

Sun Mon Tue Wed Thu Fri Sat

1 2 3 4 5 6 7

8 9 10 11 12 13 14

15 16 17 18 19 20 21

22 23 24 25 26 27 28

29 30

The Garden Spade

April 2012

Group News - What ’s Happen ing

T h e

G a r d e n

S pa d e

Cape Girardeau Co. MG, 7

pm, Cape Co. Ext. Center

Ste. Genevieve MG

Meeting, 6:30pm, at the Ste.

Genevieve Co. Ext. Center

Perry Co. MG 6:30 pm,

Perry Co. Ext. Center

May

1 - Poplar Bluff MGs 1st Tuesday at 6:00pm, Butler County Ext. Center

5 - Perryville MG Plant Sale at Perry Co. Extension Office Parking lot from 8-11 a.m.

5 - Cape County MG Spring Garden Festival at Arena Park from 9 a.m. until 3 p.m.

5 - Southeast Regional Farm Show at the David M. Barton Ag Research Center in

Gordonville MO

6 to 7 - Baker Creek Spring Planting Festival, Mansfield, MO

7 - Parkland MGs 1st Monday at 6:30pm, Farmington Courthouse Annex (3rd Floor)

10 - Delta Area MGs 2nd Thursday at 7:00pm, Medical Arts Building, Sikeston, MO

17 - Cape Girardeau County MGs 3rd Thursday at Cape County Ext. Center at 7pm

Parkland MG, 6:30pm @

Farmington Courthouse

Annex - 3rd Fl.

If you have a horticultural related event for the calendar call 573-686-8064 to add it.

Contact your local Extension Center if you have

questions about any event on the calendar.

19 & 20 Ste. Genevieve MG Garden Walk and Plant Sale

21 - Ste. Genevieve MGs 3rd Monday, at Ste. Gen. County Ext. Center at

6:30pm

28 - Perry County MGs 4th Monday at the Perry County Ext. Center at

6:30pm

Upcoming Events

June 2 - Day with Natives; Hamilton Native Outpost, Elk Creek, MO 9:00am

July 7 - Warm Season Grass Pasture Walk; Hamilton Native Outpost, Elk

Creek, MO 3-8pm

Poplar Bluff MG, 6:00pm @

Ext. Center

Bonsai; Advanced Training,

Extension Center, Poplar

Bluff, MO;9am-12pm

Core Training: 6:00pm

Cape Co. Ext Center


Butler Co. Ext Center




Cape Co. Ext Center






Cape Co. Ext Center

Dogwood Azalea Festival; Charleston, MO 19-22

Vegetable Grafting Class

Perryville Career Center

at 6:30 p.m.

Wholistic Fair - Cape VFW

Hall from 10 a.m. until 4 p.m.

Over 30 vendors offering

Natural Products and Services.

Contact MJ Myers for more

info.

The Garden Spade is published monthly by University of Missouri Extension staff for individuals and families living in Southeast and

East Central Missouri. This newsletter is provided by your local extension council.

Editors:

Katie Kammler, Plant Science Specialist

255 Market St., Ste. Genevieve, MO 63670

573-883-3548

Sarah Denkler, Horticulture Specialist

222 North Broadway Street, Poplar Bluff, MO 63901

573-686-8064

Donna Aufdenberg, Horticulture Specialist

304 High Street, PO Box 19, Marble Hill, MO 63764

573-238-2420

Editor ’s Corner

We welcome and encourage Master Gardener groups

and individuals to submit items to the newsletter. We

encourage the submission of any news such as

upcoming volunteer opportunities, community events

related to gardening, warm wishes or congratulations to

fellow gardeners. We also encourage Master

Gardeners sharing experiences and writing articles on

timely topics.

All entries into the group news sections must be

received by 4:30 on the15th of each month for the

following months news.

Email News to: [email protected],

[email protected], or [email protected]

Disclaimer: No special endorsement of mentioned products is intended, nor is criticism implied of similar

products not mentioned.

University of Missouri, Lincoln University, U.S. Department of Agriculture & Local University Extension Councils Cooperating equal opportunity/ADA institutions

April 2012 Garden Spade

the garden spade - university of missouriextension.missouri.edu/butler/documents/spade/2012...

Documents