Garden Talk! for the Heartland Garden Enthusiast

Blueberries...a summertime favorite

Garden critters: ‘Fenemies’ in grow places

Horticulture in China

Management practices for tomatoes

http://extension.missouri.edu/adair/gardentalk.aspx July 2017

University of Missouri System, Lincoln University, U.S. Department of Agriculture & Local University Extension Councils Cooperating

Equal opportunity/ADA institution

What’s Inside

Jennifer Schutter University of Missouri Extension Horticulture Specialist 660-665-9866 schutterjl@missouri.edu

If you need this newsletter in alternative format, please contact

Jennifer Schutter at the Adair County Extension Center.

JAPANESE BEETLES In recent days, I have had numerous calls and

emails about Japanese beetles feeding on ornamental plants. They have been reported in Moberly, Macon and Kahoka in large numbers, and they are all over central and southern Missouri. The beetles have not arrived in large numbers in Kirksville yet, but if you see them, please report them so we can track where they are.

Japanese beetles are 3/8" (8-11 mm) long and ¼" (5-7 mm) wide, bril-liant metallic green insects with copper-brown wings whose hard body makes them unpalatable to many predators, including birds. To distinguish them from other metallic green or copper-colored beetles, the diagnostic sign is a row of 5 small tufts of white hairs under the wing covers on each side and a 6th pair at the tip of the abdomen. The larvae, called grubs, are grayish-white with a dark brown head. They are C-shaped when disturbed.

Japanese beetles overwinter as a partially grown grub in the soil below the frost line. The grubs resume feeding on grass roots in the spring, and then pupate near the soil surface. Adults emerge between May and July, depending on their geo-graphic location . Adults live 30-45 days and feed, usually in groups, first on low-growing plants and then on tree leaves, working from the top of the plants down-ward. After feeding and mating, each female lays 1-5 eggs at a time before again feeding and mating until a total of 40-60 eggs are laid 2-4” under the soil surface in grassy areas. Most are laid by mid-August. The eggs hatch after 8-14 days, and the young grubs feed on fine grass roots until cold weather drives them below the frost line. Most are in the 3rd instar by this time. In spring the grubs come to the surface, continuing their development and forming a pupa in an earthen cell 1-3" deep in the soil. Japanese beetle adults are active for about 6 weeks in the sum-mer. Since adult beetle damage is primarily aesthetic, control is not essential for survival of ornamental plants. Because they are strong fliers and frequently move about, by season’s end, adults are capable of having traveled many miles from where they lived as grubs. As a result, local beetle control does not insure less grub damage to lawns. Likewise, local grub control will not necessarily prevent adult damage to garden plants.

Integrated Pest Management Strategies:

Hand-pick adult beetles. If only a few adults are present, shake plants early in the morning when they are sluggish. They should be collected and dropped into a container of soapy water. Any beetles or damaged leaves will attract more insects and should be removed.

Use insecticides if necessary. To control adults, one of two very safe pes-ticide, pyrethrum or Neem, can be applied in two applications, 3 to 4 days apart, to control the problem. If something stronger is needed, carbaryl

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In terms of U.S. fruit consumption, blue-berries rank only second to strawberries in popularity of berries. Blueberries are not only popular, but also repeatedly ranked in the U.S. diet as having one of the highest antioxidant capacities among all fruits, vegeta-bles, spices and seasonings. Antioxidants are essential to optimizing health by helping to combat the free radi-cals that can damage cellular structures as well as DNA. We recommend enjoying raw blueberries rather than relying upon blueberries incorporated into baked des-serts because, like other fruits, raw blueberries provide you with the best flavor and the greatest nutritional benefits.

Blueberries have very specific soil require-ments. Plants grow best in well-drained, light, sandy loam soils that are high in organic matter and have a pH between 4.5 and 5.5. Avoid planting on heavy soils that drain slowly. Water standing on the soil surface for more than 2 days during the growing season can damage roots. Blueberries require an acid soil, relative-

ly high organic matter content, and good drainage. If your soil is not naturally suitable for blueberry plant growth, you’ll need to modify it before planting.

Blueberries, because they are shallow-rooted, do require more water than most fruits so the surface roots do not dry out. Blueberries respond best to quali-ty (deep) watering rather than keeping the surface moist. Water will move to the surface. Fertilize in early spring, as leaves are breaking from dormancy.

Each blueberry cultivar ripens berries over a 2- to 5-week period. A well-managed, mature northern highbush plant will produce from 13 to 18 lb fruit. Don’t be too anxious to pick the berries when they first turn blue—they are not yet fully ripe. They’ll develop better flavor, become sweeter, and grow about 20 per-cent larger if you leave them for a few days after they completely turn blue. Pick about once a week or more often in hot weather. Gently roll berries between your thumb and forefinger, removing fully ripe berries and leaving unripe berries for the next picking.

GARDEN CRITTERS: 'FRENEMIES' IN GROW PLACES Cute critters by day. Thieves by night. Every gardener knows the frustration of having a beautiful flower or

vegetable garden decimated by four-legged critters, said University of Missouri Extension horticulturist David Trinklein. Wildlife can be more formidable garden foes than insects, diseases and weeds. A garden is the wildlife equivalent of a fast food drive-thru. Animals like food that is tasty and convenient. Hunger whets their appetite for garden goodies, especially when they cannot find food in their native habitat, such as during drought.

Early intervention is important; Trinklein recommends integrated pest management strategies for keeping wildlife damage to a minimum. Avoid animal pests by putting barriers in their way. Pungent smells and unpleas-ant tastes may dissuade wildlife such as deer. Some gardeners choose chemical repellents with repugnant odors.

Spray these around the edge of the garden. Keep in mind human and pet safety, plant toxicity, and expense when considering these options.

There are numerous homespun remedies for repelling wildlife. One of the easiest is a mixture of 20 percent whole eggs and 80 percent water. Reapply monthly. Several commercial repellents contain capsai-cin, the chemical that gives the “fire” to hot peppers. Other homespun remedies include sachets containing dog hair and highly perfumed soap.

Deer, raccoon, rabbits and other pests also dislike threatening figures and noise. Objects such as scarecrows, aluminum foil, foil pie plates, predatory bird figures and mirrors can be helpful. These are most

effective when moved frequently. Left in the same place, animals get used to them. Other, more drastic methods of garden protection include fences, netting, and small cages over individual plants such as tomatoes. These can be effective but expensive. Trinklein said 36-inch chicken wire buried 6 inches in the ground is a good choice to ex-clude smaller wildlife such as rabbits and squirrels. For deer, fences must be 8 or more feet high to be effective.

Electric fences also are an option. Deter small species with two strands of electric fencing 2 and 4 inches above the ground. Deterring larger animals such as deer requires taller fences. Trinklein recommends clearly la-beling all electric fencing to avoid accidental contact by humans.

Plant selection is another way to deter wildlife. Common garden flowers that are deer-resistant include ageratum, geranium, marigold, morning glory, nasturtium, salvia, snapdragon, Shasta daisy, canna, liatris, petunia, phlox, verbena, vinca and yarrow. For a more complete list, go to ipm.missouri.edu/MEG/?ID=193.

Source: David Trinklein, 573-882-9631

BLUEBERRIES...A SUMMERTIME FAVORITE

HORTICULTURE IN CHINA By: Zhengxiong Li, Intern, Adair County Extension Center

Hello everyone, my name is Zhengxiong Li (Mike). I come from Beijing, China. I re-cently graduated from Truman State University majoring in agricultural science. My concen-tration in agriculture industry is working on horticultural science. Currently, I am a summer intern for University of Missouri Extension in Adair County from May to August.

Horticulture is very popular in China. They are the biggest horticultural crops pro-ducer to the world. China contributes more than twenty percent of the global production of flowers. Due to it’s large population and expansive geography, there are a wide range of mi-

cro climates that result in great biodiversity. Over many years, the Chinese people have used their diversified en-vironmental elements to their advantage by studying and cultivating a myriad of horticultural crops.

Horticulture is an enormous industry in China. There are many different botanical gardens all over the country. The Chinese people have several of their own horticultural styles. Chinese gardeners like to build stone bridges, elegant pavilions and several attractive streams in their gardens. These architectures help us demon-strate hospitable culture and diligent spirit. Chinese gardeners often will build small artificial mountains in their horticultural gardens as decorations that add to the aesthetic value.

Furthermore, Chinese gardens are willing to grow diverse ornamental plants for their gardens. For in-stance, bamboo, pine trees, willow trees, plum trees and lotus are popular varieties. Most Chinese gardens prefer to grow lotus in the creeks, willow trees along the banks of rivers or streams, and pine trees near the artificial mountains. In the Chinese mind, these spectacular complements may convey a sense of peace and happiness to-wards others. This often makes visitors feel more comfortable and serene when they take a walk and see these kinds of charming sceneries in the horticultural garden.

Watering: A tomato fruit is 95 percent water, so tomatoes need lots of water to grow and develop fruit. They should receive 1 to 2 inches of water a week. If this amount is not received as rainfall, then supple-mental irrigation is necessary. Soak the soil thoroughly when watering. Frequent light waterings will encour-age a weak root system. Mulching with straw, clean hay, compost, paper or plastic will reduce soil water evaporation. Plants growing in small containers may need daily waterings.

Side-dressing: Fertilizer applied at the time of planting will not supply enough nutrients for the entire season. Too much nitrogen in the beginning results in lush vegetative growth and poor fruit set. Apply the first side-dressing when the first fruits are about one-third grown. Apply 0.5 pound of actual nitrogen per 100 feet of row. This is equivalent to 5 pounds of 10-10-10 fertilizer. Calcium nitrate is an excellent fertilizer to apply as a side-dress. About 3.5 pounds of calcium ni-trate can be side-dressed per 100 feet of row. Mix the fertilizer carefully into the top inch of soil. Don't get fertilizer on the foliage. Apply the second side-dressing two weeks after picking the first ripe fruit. Make a third application a month later. Water-in the nitrogen if rain is unlikely.

Cultivating and controlling weeds: Many weeds car-ry diseases that can seriously affect tomato plants when transmitted by insects or man. Weeds also may

harbor harmful insects and compete with tomato plants for soil moisture and nutrients. Use mulches to avoid a lot of hoeing and hand-weeding. Hay, straw, grass clippings, paper, compost or plastic can be used as mulches for tomatoes. Black plastic warms the soil and is very beneficial for early plantings. Some growers have used red plastic mulch with success. Apply organ-ic materials 2 to 4 inches thick to prevent weeds from developing.

Harvesting: For optimal flavor, tomato fruits should be allowed to ripen fully on the vine but har-vested before they begin to soften. Tomato color and flavor are optimal when average daily temperatures are about 75 degrees F. High temperatures greater than 92 degrees F. during ripening reduce fruit flavor, texture and color. Fruit exposed to high temperatures develops internal white tissue and yellow color on the fruit surface. Thus, it is important to have good vine growth, which partially shades the fruit from intense sunlight. Do not refrigerate tomatoes after harvest. Fla-vor and quality are preserved by holding the fruit at room temperature.

Mature green fruits can be harvested in the fall and held for later use. Select fruits free of disease, wrap them in paper and store them at about 60 to 65 de-grees F. They will ripen slowly and provide good toma-toes for several weeks.

Source: http://extension.missouri.edu/p/G6461

MANAGEMENT PRACTICES FOR TOMATOES

Produced monthly at the Adair County University of Missouri Extension Center, 503 E. Northtown Road, Kirksville, MO

Ph. 660-665-9866 Fax 660-665-9876 Editor: Jennifer Schutter Production: Vanessa Miller, Christina Morris and our fabulous Master Gardener volunteers

University of Missouri Extension provides equal opportunity to all participants in extension programs and

activities, and for all employees and applicants for employment on the basis of their demonstrated ability and competence without discrimination on the basis of their race, color, religion, sex, sexual orientation, national

origin, age, disability or status as a protected veteran.

Garden Talk!

UPCOMING EVENTS

July 17-22: NEMO Fair, Kirksville.

August 23-November 16: Master Gardener training class, Macon. Wednesdays, 1-4. Tours included with classroom instruction. Regis-tration forms available at http://extension.missouri.edu/adair or email me your name and contact information and I will send you the information and registration form.

December 1 & 2: Missouri Livestock Symposium, Kirksville

JULY GARDENING TIPS Ornamentals Continue to pinch mums until mid-July. Pinching after this may delay

flowering. Deadhead perennials (remove dead flowers) that have finished bloom-

ing. Prune climbing roses and rambler roses after bloom. Spider mites may be a problem during hot, dry weather. Leaves will be-

come speckled above and yellowed below. Evergreen needles appear dull gray-green to yellow or brown.

Water newly planted trees and shrubs thoroughly at least once a week. Fertilize trees and shrubs by July 4. Late fertilizing may cause lush

growth that is more prone to winter kill. Black Spot may be a problem on roses. Remove and pick up infected

leaves and spray fungicides as needed. Powdery mildew may be found on lilacs. It is rarely harmful and shrubs

grown in full sun are less susceptible. Divide irises now.

Vegetables Blossom end rot of tomatoes and peppers may become a problem.

Maintain soil moisture and do not let soils dry out. Place a layer of mulch 2-3 inches thick around plants.

Keep weeding! Prevent weeds from going to seed. Dig potatoes when the tops die. Plant fall potatoes by July 15. Harvest onion and garlic when the tops turn brown. Keep cucumbers well-watered. Drought condition cause bitter fruit. Sow seeds of carrots, beets, turnips, and winter radish for fall harvest

the last week of July. Also set out broccoli, cabbage, and cauliflower transplants for the fall garden at this time.

Fruit Protect grapes from birds! Prune out old fruiting canes of raspberries after harvest is complete. Apply second spray to trunks of peach trees for peach borers. Early peach varieties ripen now. Blackberries will begin to ripen soon.

Turf Water lawn frequently enough to prevent wilting. Early morning irriga-

tion allows turf to dry before nightfall and will reduce the chance of dis-ease.

Monitor lawns for newly hatched white grubs. If damage is occurring, apply appropriate controls, following product label directions.

- Missouri Botanical Garden -

extension.missouri.edu/adair

(Sevin) may be used (every 5-10 days during heavy infesta-tion) with monitoring for mites or aphids, in which case acephate (Orthene; more toxic) or malathion should be used. Other insecticides in-clude Turcam, Closure (bendiocarb), permethrin, and synthetic pyrethroids. With any insecticide, efficacy will be decreased if there is heavy rainfall shortly after applica-tion of the chemical.

Source: Missouri Botanical Garden

www.missouribotanicalgarden.org/gardens-gardening/your-garden/help-for-the-home-gardener/advice-tips-resources/pests-and-problems/insects/beetles/japanese-beetle.aspx

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