sewing machine instructions

8/12/2019 Sewing Machine Instructions

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INSTRUCTION BOOK

MODEL 652



TABLE OF CONTENTS

SECTION 1. KNOW YOUR MACHINE * Turn a Square Corner ....... ........ .......... 25

Locate and Identify the Parts 2-3 * Use the Darning Plate ........ ............. 26 To pstitc bin g........................ ...... 26

SECTION 2. PREPARE YOUR MACHINE FOR SEWING Darning . .................. 27Straight Stretch ...... ., . 27

Set Up the Machine ..................... .. 4-8 Zigzag Stitches . ........... . 28-35*Plug in the Machine and Switch on the Power... .... 4 * Basic Zigzag ......................... 28

*Foot Control Use 4 ai tth........................ 4eSaiStch................... ...............................................9* Set the Pressure Dial . . . . . . . . . . .. 5 * Applique . .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30* Setting Spool Pins .. . . . . . . .6 a Bar Tacking . . . . .. . . . . . . . .. 30* Adjust the Presser Foot Lever . . . . . .. 6 * Monogramminig . . . . . . . . .. .. . 31* Thread Cutter . . . . . .. 6 & Embroidery . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. 31* Accessory Storage Box . . . . . . . ... 7 * Sew a Button . . .. . . . . . . .. 32*Free Arm Sewing: the Removable Extension Table,. 7-~8 * Overcasting Stitch ....... 33

Know What the Presser Feet Will Do............... 9~-11 a Rick-Rack Stretch .... ........ .............. 33*Check Your Presser Foot ........................ 9 * Three-Step Zigzag . .. .......... ............ 34*Change the Presser Foot ................. 9 * Overcast Stretch Stitching....................... 35*Presser Foot Types ....................... 10-11 o Serging or Pine Leaf Stretch Stitching.............. 35

Choose Your Needle and Thread.......... 12 Blind Hemming ........... .. .. . . ............... 36 Needle, Thread and Fabric Chart .. 12 Lace Work.................................... 37

Check Your Needle ............................ 12 Buttonhole Making........... ................ 38-39* To Change Your Needle..................... ... 12 Sew in a Zipper .................... 40-41Prepare the Bobbin ........ ............. 13-14 Shell Stitching. .ý. .............................. 42 To Remove the Bobbin from the Machine........... 13 Two-Point Shell Stitching......................... 42 Wind the Bobbin .. . . . . . . . . . .ý 13 S o kn . . . . . . .. . . . . . . . .. 43

*Insert the Bobbin into the Bobbin Holder............14 Smoecking ig ... 4repeYou Tp Tred 15 8 aStretc Paitchin . .43

PrepreaYourTopTheadle................... ..... 15B Fagoting BnStietch 44

*Pick Up Your Bobbin Thread.................... 16 Elastic Stretch Stitch................. ........... 45*Adjust the Top Thread Tension. .............. 17-1B Box Stitching.................................. 45

Stitch Selector . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18Stitch Width Control ............. 9 SECTION 4. PERFORMANCE PROBLEMS CHARTStitch Length Control .. . . . . . . . . . . . 19

Adjusting Stretch Stitch Balance ......... 9 What to Do When ............. 46-47Reverse Stitch Control .. . . . . . . . . . . . 20Starting To Sew ............ 20 SECTION 5. CARE FOR YOUR MACHINE

Replace the Light Bulb 48

SECTION 3. LEARN THE STITCHES Clean the Bobbin Holder ............ 48

Practical Stitch Chart... 21--24 Clean the Hook Race and Feed Dogs................. 49

Straight Stitches ... ... ... 25--27 Oiling the Machines .. . . . . . . . . . . . . 49

Straight Stitch .. . . . . . .. . . .. 25

Use the Seam Guides . . . . . . . . . . .. 25



SECTION 1. KNOW YOUR MACHINE

Locate and Identify the Parts

Thread Spool Pins

Uppe Thead ideBobbinl Winding Spindle

Take-up Lever

Controlh onro

••Stitch Wid~th Control

Face Cover PIatehread CutteGuide

2h



SECTION 1. KNOW YOUR MACHINE

At,, Coer PateCarrying Harndle

Foote roontr

TOMm.HmAWel Pesse Fo o

Push Pe Clue



SECTION 2. PREPARE YOUR MACHINE FOR SEWING

Set Up the Machine

Plug in the Machine and Switch on the Power Foot Control Us e

Power supply plug Power

a

Foot cntro~

Plug The foot control regulates the speed at

connector which you sew.MachinePlug To increase speed, gently press down with

the ball of your foot.

1. Insert the machine plug into the three prong To decrease speed, release your foot pres-

outlet, as shown. It will only fit one way. sure slightly.

2. Insert the power supply plug into the outlet. NOTE: The foot control is sensitive and

will increase or decrease your

sewing speed immediately.

Practice on a scrap of fabric to

regulate your sewing speed to

your taste and needs.

4




Set the Pressure Dial

,GroovePress-,L*o irolSetn

Ii I Setiincj nark

The pressure control dial is located inside the face cover plate.

Set the dial aligning the setting mark on the dial with the groove as follows.

3 ..... .most sewing

2 ..... .applique and Cut-Out work

1 ..... .basting, sewing chiffon, lace, organdy and other lightweight fabrics.

Also for velours and knits (with more stretch).

NOTE: The pressure dial should be reset at 3 after changing pressure, sothe machine is ready for most normal sewing the next time you use

it.

5




Set Up the Machine (Continued)

* Setting Spool Pins e Adjust the Presser Foot Lever a Thread Cutter

Spool pin felt

Spool pin

~Thraad

No.mat u•p

position High~position

.p Normal opHighposition

P-esser lootlever

The spool pins are used for holding the You don't need a pair of scissors to cut the

spools of thread in order to feed thread to thread after you finish sewing. Just use the

the machine, handy thread cutter.

To use, pull up the spool pins. Place the The Presser Foot Lever raises and lowers your The threads are cut the proper length for

spool felt on the pins. Push down for presser foot starting the next seam.

storage. You can raise it about 0.6 cm higher than the

normal up position for easy removal of the presser

foot or to help you place heavy fabrics under the

presser foot.

6




o Accessory Storage Box * Free-Arm Sewing: the Removable Extension Table

Your sewing machine can do tree arm sewing.

To remove: This feature makes sewing easy for:

• To Remove the Extension Table

(for free-arm sewing)

1. Grip the table with your index finger and thumb,

The lid of the accessory storage box lifts as shown.

open toward you. 2. Pull gently toward you.

Sewing accessories are conveniently located The extension table will snap out. Bar tacking to reinforce pockets, placketsin tckngtheinore oboxplckt

in the box. Attach: and waistlines on ready-made or home-

made garments to avoid fabric bunchingF It•i> 0 liihk: around the needle.

Slot

To Attach the Extension Table

(for flat bed sewing)

1. Fit the tabs into the slot, as shown.

2. With your thumb and index finger, gently snap in,

7




Set Up the Machine (Continued)

Stitching sleeves, waistbands, pant legs, * Darning socks or mending knees, elbows, * Sewing buttons on sleeves, waistbands,or any circular garment area. or areas of wear in children's clothes. etc.

8




Know What the Presser Feet Will Do

. Check Your Presser Foot *Change the Presser Foot

The Presser feet are an important feature of this machine. You need to know Use the correct presser foot for the stitch you wish to sew. Consult the

what each foot does in order to use them effectively. Stitch Pattern Chart and the detailed directions for sewing with the various

Your presser foot is held in place by a Foot Holder. Each presser foot merely presser feet.

snaps on the foot holder, which is seldom removed.If you need to remove or attach the foot holder, here is what you do.

To Remove: To Attach: To Snap Off:

Presser bar F npn I

oIfFoot ~t

holder >'

To Remove: To Attach. To Snap Of f the Presser Foot:

Turn the screw toward the back of 1. Match the hole in the foot 1. Raise the needle bar to its highest position by turning the hand wheel

the machine. Use the large screw holder with the threaded hole in toward you.

driver. the presser bar. 2. Raise the presser foot.

2. Fit the foot holder screw into 3. Press the snap-on button on the back of the foot holder. The presser

the hole. foot will drop off,

3. Tighten the screw by turning it

toward you.

9




Know What the Presser Feet Will Do (Continued)

. Presser Foot Types

Zigza FootStraight Foot

To Snap OnA: Zigzag foot H: Straight foot

0Use this foot for both straight and zigzag Use this foot exclusively for straight

stitching. stitching using center needle position only.

pmUses: Zigzag stitching (see page 28). Uses: Straight stitching (see page 25),

Bar tacking (see page 30), Topstitching (see page 26).Button sewing (see page 32), Straight stretch (see page 27).

Overcasting stitch (see page 33),

Rick-rack stretch (see page 33),

To Snap On the Presser Foot: Three-step zigzag (see page 34),

1. Place the presser foot so the hori- Serging (see page 35),

zontal pin on the foot lies just Overcast stretch (see page 35),

under the groove of the foot Blind hemming (see page 36-),

holder.Lace work (see page 37),holder.Two-point shell stitching

2. Lower the presser toot holder to (see page 42),

lock the presser foot in place. Smocking (see page 43),Stretch patching (see page 43),

NOTE: If you do not hear the Fagoting (see page 44),presser foot snap in place, Herring bone stretch (see page 44),press down on the presser Elastic stretch (see page 45),foot holder firmly until you Box stitching (see page 45).hear the snap.

10




Sliding Buttonhole Foot Zipper Foot Satin Stitch Foot

Sliding buttonhole foot E: Zipper foot F: Satin stitch foot

Use this foot for buttonholes of built in This foot can be set to sew on each side of Use this transparent foot for satin stitch an d

system. It is marked to measure your your zipper. The edges of the foot guide the outlining applique.

buttonholes accurately. zipper and keep the seam straight. Uses: Satin stitch (see page 29),

Uses: Buttonhole making (see page 38). Uses. Zipper application (see page 40). Applique (see page 30),Monogramming (see page 31),Shell stitching (see page 42).




Choose Your Needle and Thread

*Needle, Thread and Fabric Chart o To Change Your Needle

FABRICS THREADS SIEEL

Fine SilkLIGHT Crepe de Chine, Voile Fine Cotton9or1

WEIGHT Lawn, Organdy, Georgette,Tricot

Fine Synthetic9or1Fine Cotton Coveted Polyestert

50 SilkMEDIUM Linens, Cotton, Pique 50 to 80 CottonWEIGHT Serge, Double Knits, Percale 50 to 60 Synthetic 11 or 14

Cotton Covered Polyester

50SilkHEAVY Denim, Tweed, Gabardine, 40 to 50 CottonWEIGHT Coating, Drapery and Upholstery Fabric 40 to 50 Synthetic 14 or 16 F

Cotton Covered Polyester

NOTE:

In general, fine threads and needles are used for sewing thin fabrics, and thicker threadsand needles are used for sewing heavy fabrics. Always test thread and needle size on asmall piece of fabric which will be used for actual sewing. Use the same thread for needle and bobbin.

*When sewing stretch, very fine fabrics and synthetics, use a BLUE TIPPED needle. The NOTE: Raise the needle bar to its highest posi-blue tipped needle effectively prevents skipped stitches, tion by turning the hand wheel toward

*hnsewing very f ne fabrics, sew over a piece of paper to prevent yarn distortion.you.

1 Loosen the needle clamp screw by turning it

* Check Your Needletoadyu

1. Never use a bent needle or one with a dull point. 2 eoetenel ypligi onad

The exact length of your needle is shown at left. 3. Insert the new needle into the needle clampBe sure you never use one in your machine that with the flat side away from you.

is not this exact length. 4. Push the needle up as far as it will go.

2. A damaged needle can cause permanent snags or 5. Tighten the needle clamp screw firmly with the

runs in knits, fine silks and silk-like fabrics, large screwdriver from your accessory storage

*Always buy a good quality thread. It should resist box.

tangling and be strong, smooth and consistent in

thickness.

12




Prepare the Bobbin

* To Remove the Bobbin from the Machine a Wind the Bobbin

1. Gently push down on the bobbin cover plate and slide

it towards you. Bobbm wind q s:vrdle *

2. Set aside.3. Lift out the bobbin, as shown. 1. Put your spool of thread onto spool pin, with the thread winding in the direction

shown.

2. Pull the clutch away from the machine to stop the needle from moving while you

winding the bobbin.

3. Draw thread from spool through bobbin winder tension disc as shown.

4. Place the threaded bobbin on the bobbin winding spindle so that the thread comes

out on top.

5. Push the bobbin winder spindle to the right until it clicks.

6. Holding onto end of thread, depress the foot control.

7. When the bobbin is slightly filled, stop the machine and clip the thread coming from

the bobbin.

8. Slowly start the machine again and wind the thread until the bobbin stops.

9. Push the bobbin winder spindle to the left and clip the thread.

10. Remove the bobbin.

11. Push in the clutch for normal sewing operation.

13




Prepare the Bobbin (Continued)

*Insert the Bobbin into the Bobbin Holder

___ B

1. Put the bobbin into the bobbin 2. Pull about 10 cm of thread 3. Then pull the thread clockwise 4, Slide the bobbin cover plate while

holder so that the thread feeds toward you through the tension toward the back of the machine pushing it down slightly over the

counter-clockwise (left), slot .A through the slot .bobbin. Allow about 10 cm of

thread to show above the needle

plate.

14




Prepare Your Top Thread

* Thread Your Needle

1J,

36

Raise take-up lever to its highest position by turning hand wheel toward you.

® :: ® Raise presser foot lever.

6 Place spool on spool pin as shown, with thread coming from the back of the spool.

1 Draw thread into thread guide using both hands.

2. While holding thread near spool, draw thread down into the tension area and then around the

check spring holder.

The numbered steps above follow the numbers 3. Firmly draw thread up and through take-up lever from right to left.

on the illustrations.

4. Draw thread down and slip it through the thread guide.Dotted lines show places where the thread

loops and then is pulled tight. 5. Thread then is slipped into needle bar thread guide.

6. Thread needle from front to back.

NOTE: You may want to cut the end of thread with sharp scissors for easier needle threading.

15




Prepare Your Top Thread (Continued)

Pick Up Your Bobbin Thread

1. Raise presser foot lever. Hold 2. Bring bobbin thread up by pulling 3. Pull both threads under and to theneedle thread loosely in left hand top thread, back of the presser foot, leavingand rotate handwheel toward 10 to 15 cm of thread clear.you one complete turn.

16




Adjust the Top Thread Tension

Choose the Correct Tension:

fop r.idnf fabri The best tension will depend on,

... .tir.ark the stiffness and thickness of the fabric

--- __ the number of fabric layers

.sor• ______r_____ the type of stitch

thread t The top thread The too threadisoo n0ose isoo tight

Too rideTosidehof farfabric

For Straight Stitch

The ideal straight stitch will have threads locked between the two layers of The top thread The bobbin threadfabric, as shown above, magnified to show detail. appears on the appears on the

underside of the upper surface of theIf you look at the stitch, front and back, you will notice that there are no fabric fabric,

gaps, that each stitch is smooth and even,

When adjusting top thread tension, the higher the number, the tighter the top

thread.t

Tension is too loose: Tension is too tight:

The top thread shows through the The bobbin thread will come through

bottom of the fabric, The bottom side the top of the fabric. The top side of

of the stitch will feel bumpy. the stitch will feel bumpy.

17




Stitch Selector

For Zigzag Stitch

In the correct zigzag stitch, the bobbin threads will not show on top of the

fabric and the top threads will show slightly on the under side. See below for jthe correct appearance. To match this appearance, adjust your top thread r uL j

tension. c cocos 0 0

/~Stitch

Redindicato

The stitch selector control determines the stitch you select.

Too Tight Too Loose Just Right Simply turn this control until the desired stitch is indicated by the red indicator

on the stitch indicator panel. The bottom row of stitches is selected when the

stitch length control is set at the stretch stitch position.

NOTE: To avoid needle or fabric damage, be sure your needle is up and out of

fabric when selecting a stitch.

Stitch patterns are color-coded to recommend setting zones at the stitch length

control.

ZONESNWp S ie cf F~ar,, Under Sick of F2Lbr; Topl Side of Pahr;: * Pink .......... . Straight, Zigzag and Utility StitchesToo Tight Too Loose * Blue ........... Built-in Buttonhole Making

- The points of the The top thread . Yellow ........ Stretch Stitches

zigzag will puIl wilt loop tfhoU ghtogether on top of the poitrs on thetile stitch. bottom of the

stitch and W I bepulled almosttogether

18




Stitch Width Control Stitch Length Control Adjusting Stretch Stitch Balance

V Width V Length

01234511

0~

Stretch Stltch

The stitch width control regulates the The stitch length control regulates the In stretch stitch sewing, the stretch stitch

width of the stitch you select, length of stitch, and also has a stretch adjuster should usually be in a neutral

The higher the number, the wider the stitches setting. positi n (between -+ and -... r

stitch. The higher the number, the longer the position). When sewing some fabrics, you

stitch. may need to adjust this control to

tmeans no feed. i balance the stitches for appearance sake.

If design seems open like the illustrations

To select Stretch Stitches, set this to the left. adjust the control slightlycontrol at Stretch Stitch. Srnikirlg stretch toward - until design looks like the

NOTE: When you select built-in center design.

buttonhole (blue), make sure If the design appears to be closed as in

that you do not set the stitch 4 , the right hand illustrations, turn the

lengh control at "Stretch control toward + until stitching is as

Stitch". you desire.

Study the pink, yellow

and blue sections around Rickrack stretch

this control. These are

recommended zones of

stitch length and color-coded

to the stitches pictured on

the stitch indicator panel.

19




Reverse Stitch Control Starting To Se w

Now that you are familiar with the controls on your machine and with the accessories provided for the machine,

you are ready to start to sew with your sewing machine. Below are some good habits to follow each time youReverse sit down to sew:

1 Inspect the needle. It should be straight, properly set and sharp on the point, It should be the correct sizefor the fabric and thread being used. Do not be afraid to change your needle frequently. Many of the newfabrics made of synthetic blends tend to dull the needles more easily than fabrics made of natural fibers,

2. Before placing the material on the machine, see that the ends of the threads have been drawn about 10 cmto the rear of the machine. Hold on to threads during the sewing of the f rst 3 or 4 stitches of the seam.

3. Test the machine stitch on a scrap of fabric you plan to use, The fabric should be double thickness, Adjust

the machine for the length of stitch and tension suitable to your fabric.

To reverse stitch, hold down this con- 4. Fabric should be placed under the presser foot with the bulk of the material to the left of the needle and

trol during sewing. the right edge of the material placed on the 5/8 seam marking on the needle plate when making asimple

Release to sew forward again. seam.

5. Run the machine at a slow even speed, The more pressure you put on the foot control, the faster the

machine will sew,

6. Fasten each seam by back tacking at the beginning and end of the seam,

7. Always finish sewing each seam with the needle at its highest point.

8. Guide the fabric gently with your hand in front of the needle. Never pull or hold the fabric in such away

that the normal feeding is altered.

9. When turning the hand wheel manually, always turn it toward you.

20



SECTION 3. LEARN THE STITCHES

Practical Stitch Chart

Stitch Needle Thread Stitch Stitch

Stitch Selection Foot and Other Attach, Tension Length Width Uses Refer to Page

STRAIGHT Straight Check 2 6 Pink 0 Regular seams, zippers, topstitching, darning, 25 27,Chart Zone etc. 40 41

I 642x, ~ onp.1L2

Darning Zipperplate foot

STRAIGHT Straight Check 2 6 Yellow 0 Use on knits and other stretch fabrics, good 27STRETCH Chart Stretch for topstitching.

on p.12 iStitchoPosition

ZIGZAG Zigzag Check 3-8 Pink 1 -- 5 Finish edges, buttons, satin stitch, applique, 28-33Chart Zone

monogram, embroidery, sewing bar tacks,on p, 12

RICK-RACK Zigzag i Check 2-6 Yellow 2 -5 Decorate garments with one row or several. 33STRETCH Chart Stretch

on p. 12 StitchPosition

BLIND HEM Zigzag Check 2-6 Pink 2- 3 Use for finishing seams. 36STITCH Chart ZoneIon p.

1 2

21




Stitchion Thread Stitch Stitch

Stitch Stitch Foot and Other Attach. Needle Tension Length Width Uses Refer to Page

BOX Zigzag Check 3 S Pink 3- 5 Use for overlapping seams. 45STITCHING Chart Zone

onp,12

ELASTIC Zigzag Check 3 -6 Yellow 3 - 5 Use for applying elastic. 45STRETCH Chart Stretch

on p. 12 Stitch os t on

FAGOTING Zigzag Check 3 8 0.5 -2 5 Join two folded edges for decorative 44Chart open-work appearance.

on p. 12

STRETCH Zigzag Check 2 -6 Yellow 5 Use for patchwork quilting. 43PATCHING Chart Stretch

on p 12 StitchPosition

TWO-POINT SHELL Zigzag Check 3 -'8 Pink 3 - 5 Do shell tucking on blouses and lingerie, 42

STITCHING Chart Zone This stitch can also be used as a single

on p 12overlock stitch as well.

L

rr

23




Practical Stitch Chart (Continued)

Stitch Stitch Fo ta d O h r ta h e deThread Stitch Stitch

Selection FoanOteAtah Nede Tension Length Width Uses Refer to Page

HERRING BONE Zigzag Check 2 -6 Yellow 3 -5 Use as hemming stitch for blankets, table- 44STR ETCH Chart Stretch cloth and draperies.

on p. 12 StitchPosition

BUTTONHOLE H uttonhole Check 2 -6 Blue Zone 3-S Buttonholes: also corded buttonholes. 38 -39Charton p. 12

SATIN STITCH Satin Check 3 -8 0.5- 1 2-S Use for applique work, also as decorative 29Chart finish for placemats, blankets, collars,onp. 12 cuffs and pockets.

24




Straight Stitches

Straight Stitch Use the Seam Guides

Set the Machine

Stitch width Ncontrol 0

Cornering qurde

Top thread tension The seam guides on the needle platecontrol 2 to 6 Stitch length are engraved to help you measure seam

\ control cink Before sewing with the straight stitch 7. At the beginning and end of width. The lines are 1/8 apart, withzone foot, always set the stitch width seam, you may want to reverse to the 5/8" and 7/8" lines marked.

--][4L7i , 3 control to 0 to avoid breaking the lock the stitch.'9/ *Turn aSquare Corner

j63eedle. 8. Raise the presser foot and removeo4 1. Raise the presser foot. the fabric.

2. Raise the needle to its highest 9. Cut the threads. <Cornerroy

Stretch Stitch position., c de

H h3. Place the edge of the fabric next

H: Straight foot to a stitching guide line on the < --

needle plate (5/8 is most

NOTE: Best sewing results are common).

obtained with the straight 4. Draw the threads toward the backstitch foot, but the zigzag andTo turn a square corner 5/8 from the

fotwl lo poie and lower the presser foot. fabric edge:ýfoot will also provide

acceptable results. 5. Press the foot control. 1. Stop stitching and lower the

6. Hold the fabric loosely and gently needle by turning hand wheel

guide it along the guide line, so toward you when the fabric edge

that it feeds naturally. facing you lines up with the

Do not force the fabric or try o cornering guide, as shown.

pullit tight. 2 Raise the presser foot and turnthe fabric to line the edge with

the 5 8 seam guide.

3. Lower the presser foot and begin

stitching in the new direction.

25




Straight Stitches (Continued)

Use the Darning Plate a Topstitching

Darning plate Set the Machine

Stitch widthcontrol 0

Top thread tension Stitch lengthcontrol 2 to 6 control Pink

zone Here's How

Sometimes when you sew, you want to control the fabric yourself. L].Lwe h pesr otThe Darning Plate covers the feed dogs so that they do not touch the fabric. 4 2. Keep the edge of the fabric next

To Put on the Darning Plate: t Othergteg.o h rse

NOTE; The rectangular holes in the Darning Plate match the holes in the (needle plate. In the darning plate. these holes are slightly to the Stretc Stitc 3. Evely duide fabri along thisoright of center, edge.ops produce acnrmtevendrweo

1 Position the darning plate with the pins on the bottom. H: Straight foot tptthn mfo h de

2. Fit the darning plate pins into the needle plate holes at the

5/8 mark. The feed dogs will show through the darning plate The Stitch and Its Uses

holes. Topstitching emphasizes the lines of

Use the darning plate in the following ways: your garment and keeps seams andedges flat and crisp.

Darning (see page 27),

Button Sewing (see page 32). Accent suits or blouses with one ortwo rows of topstitching around the

outer edges of cuffs, lapels or collars.

26




Darning Straight Stretch

Set the Machine Set the Machine

Stitch width Stitch widthcontrol 0 control 0

1 1 2 34

Top threadtensioncontrol Stitch length Top thread tension Stitch length2 to6 control any number control 2 to 6 control yellow

(rnot notestory to steth stitch

2 Here's How 2

4 (see page 26). 3 4No presser

foot 2. Remove presser foot and foot holder

(see page 9), stretch fabric betweenStretch Stitch embroidery hoops with hole centered. F Stretch Stitch

3. Draw the bobbin thread up through theL._. Stretch stitching was developed

Darning plate fabric by holding the top thread and taking H: Straight foot to be used on stretch fabrics andknits. It can be used on other

one stitch at the spot where you wish to

The Stitch and Its Uses fabrics as well. It works well onstart darning. __

4. Lower the presser bar and sew at a slow This stitch is the stretch variation of curved seams and on an y

pered. pthe straight stitch, especially develop-

garments that will receive a greatspeed. ed for knits and stretch fabrics, deal of strain ie. children's

5. Move the fabric back and forth slowly until clothes).This stitch can also be used for

you have covered the darning area. Ti tthcnas eue otopstitching on all fabrics. The stretch stitch does not

6. Turn the fabric half turn and sew another actually stretch as it is being

layer of stitching over the first layer. sewn, but is stitched in a

NOTE: If your fabric is thin or badly damaged, forward and back motion

use a separate piece of fabric under the (sometimes called a reverse-

hole to reinforce it. action" stitch), so that it will

give when the fabric stretches

7. When you finish darning, remove the darning instead of breaking.

plate and replace foot holder and foot.27




Zigzag Stitches

Basic Zigzag

et the Machine

Stitch widthcontrol 1 to 5

Top thread tension Stitch lengthcontrol 3 to 8 control pink

e 2Here's How

There are many ways to sew a zigzag stitch.

04 Consult the specific variations for detailed directions.

Satin Stitch page 29,

Stretch Stitch Applique Work page 30,Bar Tacking page 30,

FMonogramming page 3

A: Zigzag foot Embroidery page 31,

Button Sewing page 32,

The Stitch and Its Uses Overcasting page 33.

The zigzag stitch is ne of the most

common and most versatile stitches on

your machine. It can be a utility stitch

for sewing buttons, buttonholes, hem-

ming overcasting, mending and darn-

ing. It can also be used to decorate

with trims, appliques and cut-out work

or as a decorative stitch.

28




Satin Stitch

Set the Machine

Stitch width Stitcontrol 2 to 5

tp hread :3ension

control 3 to 8 Stitch lengthcontrol 0,5 to I

IRK Stretch Stitch

F Satin stitchoot2

Pressure dial:or

The Stitch and Its Uses

The Satin stitch is a versatile and often Here s How

used decorative stitch, but it can also

be used to overcast a raw edge (for ex- Once your machine is set up to stitch, you may want to experiment on a fragment

ample, blankets, linens, tablecloths of the fabric you are planning to use. Too tight satin stitch may pucker some light

and napkins). weight fabrics.

The Satin stitch is especially attractive

in applique.

29




Zigzag Stitches (Continued)

Applique e Bar Tacking


Stitch width Stitch widthcontrol 2 to 5 control 2 to 5

Top thread tension

Stich length Top thread tensioncontro o 1 con ro 20to6 Stitch length _______

2 \2 control 0 5 o I

Baste (or fuse with iron-on fabric is2 T-3 This stitch is similar to a very short

L 3 joiner) applique pieces on the fabric. satin stitch and is used to reinforce3 Stitch around the applique making .4 points of strain such as corners or

sure the needle falls along the outer pockets and straps on lingerie.

S titch edge of theapplique. Sew 4 to 6 zigzag stitches.

Fý Satin stitch When sewing corners, lower the needle Stretch Stitch

foot down into the fabric. Raise the presserfoot and pivot the fabric to the right A Zigzag foot

Pressure dial: 2 or left.

30




Monogramming * Embroidery


Stitch width I Stitch widthcontrol 5 control to 5

IHAi i3Top thread tension Top thread tension Stitch length controlcontrol 2 to6 Stitch length control2 T 6 Anv r io lr ...

control 0 5 to 1 ....... r ry tt djut Here's How

3 Here'sHow - 1. Put the darning plate on the needle

tL4T i 1. Set the same as satin stitch. iii plate (see page 26).i•4 4 --

2. Back the fabric with paper or 2. Remove foot holder (see page 9).

interfacing. Nopresser 3. Adjust the stitch width as desired

Stretch Stitch 3. Draw the letters on the fabric foot Stretch Stitch see page 19).

with tailor's chalk. 4. Draw the design on to the fabric

F: Satin stitch 4. Satin stitch, adjusting the stitch with tailor's chalk.ot idh s or echDarning plate >s

foot width as necessary to form each 5. Stretch the fabric between embroi-

pattern. dery hoops and place under the

5. If using paper, carefully remove it needle.

when you have finished sewing. 6. Lower the presser foot lever to

engage the top thread tension.

7. Holding the top thread in your left

hand, rotate the hand wheel toward

you one complete turn.

Pull the top thread to draw the

bobbin thread through to the surface

of the fabric.

8. Using a medium speed, stitch along

the marked outline, guiding the

fabric carefully by hand.

31





*Sew a Button

Set the Machine

Stitch width controlMust be adjusted

Top thread tensioncontrol 2 toG6

Stitch length controlAny number lnott

S necessary to adjust)J

4. N Use the darning plate for button sewing (see page 26). To strengthen the shank, cut the

\ 3 1. Match the center of the button holes to the center of the slot on the presser threads leaving a 20cm tail. Bring the4 foot- needle thread down through the hole

2. Adjust the stitch width so that needle will drop in each hole. sn hank to.n wn i run h

FM Stretch Stitch 3. Lower the foot to hold the button in place. Da h hedt h o tmsdA: igzg fotTurn the hand wheel by hand so that needle will enter either hole of the and knot.

Darbutton.

Darin plte4. Stitch several times,

32




Overcasting Stitch e Rick-Rack Stretch


Stitch width Stitch width

controlS3 to 5 control 2 to 5

Top thread tension Top thread tensioncontrol 3 to 8 Stitch length control 2 to 6 S l

control pink Stitcht length

6 t nk control Yellow-- - --- S tret&h stitch-tiHelpful Hints

H u H postion The Stitch and Its Uses

Start overcasting about 0.3 cm inside Sew on stretch fabrics in any area that4 the raw corner of your seam. If you L3- you might use a zigzag stitch.

start right at the edge, the fabric will 4 This stitch can be used as a decorative

bunch up and the stitches will become top stitch as well.Stretch Stitch tangled.

Lr SS Stretch Stitch

A Zigzag foot A: Zigzag foot


This zigzag variation is very useful in

garment construction and in finishing

raw edges of any sewing project.

33





9Three-Step Zigzag

Set the Machine

Stitch width -

control 5-

4 0

Top thread tensioncontrol 2 to 6 Stitch length

control 0.5 to I

2Seam Finishing (Overcasting) Mending

Place the fabric under the presser foot Position the tear under the needle so

Stec 4 sothat the edge will be slightly inside that the stitching will catch both sides.

teright hand side of the presser foot.

SrthStitch Guide the work so the right hand

F T-R ::stitches tall at the edge of the fabric.

A: Zigzag foot


The three-step zigzag is acombination

zigzag and straight stitch. You may use

the three-step zigzag everywhere you

would use the basic zigzag stitch. It

has more strength, elasticity, and is

flatter than a regular zigzag.

The three-step zigzag stitch is especial-

ly useful for:

- mending

-sewing patches smoothly and

securely.

- repairing straight tears.

- finishing seams,

34




* Overcast Stretch Stitching * Serging or Pine Leaf Stretch Stitching

Sel the Machine Set the Machine

Stitch width Stitch widthcontrol 3 to 5 control 3 tob5

1 2 34

Top thread tension Top thread tensioncontrol 2 to 6 Stitch length control 3 to 6 Stitch length

control yellow control yellowstretch stitCh sttretch stitchPosition Here's How positior Here's How

'N 3 Place the raw edge of the fabric to 1-• '"" Place the fabric under the presser

the LEFT of the needle as shown. foot so that the stitches are made

Stitch so the needle pierces the fabric over the edge.

just short of the outside edge.

Stretch Stitch Or, place your fabric to allow a Stretch Stitch NOTE: When using stretch knit

1.5 cm seam, then trim seam fabric, use a blue stretch

A: Zigzag foot allowance after. A: Zigzag foot fabric needle which

Raw or worn edges of older garments effectively prevents

The Stitch and Its Uses can be overcast to prevent further The Stitch and Its Uses skipped stitches.

This stitch can be used for sewing a raveling. Use this stitch when you want a

seam with an overcast finish, NOTE: Use a blue stretch fabric narrow seam that you do not need to

The seam is formed and finished in needle, which effectively press open flat. It is ideal for 0.6 cm

one operation. It can be used when prevents skipped stitches, seams on knits or on medium to

you are making swimwear, ski pants heavyweight woven fabrics where youand other garments that require want a narrow seam. It is also great

stretch for making elastic swim wear.

35




Blind Hemming

Set the Machine

Stitch widthcontrol 2 to 3 0f4 to 0.7 cm

Bottomside

of fabric

WeIgh

Top thread tension

control 2 0o Stitch lengthcontrol pinkone ev

o Fabric

1. Finish the raw edge of your hem any way you desire. (see overcasting page 33).

Stretch Stitch 2. Measure, turn up your hem and pin.

{M c NOTE: For light weight fabrics, you may need adouble fold.

A; Zigzag foot 3. Fold the material (bottom side out) on the edge to be stitched, as shown, leaving 0.4 to 0.7 cm of the finished hem

edge showing.

4. Place garment under presser foot in such a manner that straight stitches will be sewn on extended edge. The zigzag

stitch should just catch the fold of the garment.

5. After hemming, press both sides of the finished hem. The top side of the garment will show only the blind stitches.

36




Lace Work

Set the Machine N

Stitch widthcontrol 2 1 : 3

Top thread tensioncontrol 2 to 6 Stitch length

control I

>4Ar

Stretch Stitch

Lace adds a fanciful, feminine touch

A. Zigzag toot to blouses and lingerie. Table linens

and pillows become more elegant

when trimmed with lace.

Turn raw edge of fabric under at least

1.5 cm. Place lace underneath and

topstitch using stretch blind hem

stitch.

Trim excess fabric close to stitching.

37




Buttonhole Making

Set the Machine

Stitch widthcontrol 3 to 5 JPi

•234 C>>

" "A"

Stitch length AcontrolBlue ZroeP=

0 2 1. a. Carefully mark the buttonhole 2. a. Move the slider (A) toward you 3. a. Set the stitch selector at Elength on your garment, so that the top mark (C) on the b. Sew forward until you reach the

4i bhange to the sliding buttonhole slider meets the start mark (B). front marking of your button.

foot. br Line up the markings on the hole.Top thread tension

control 2 to 6fo ihtetpmr nyu

Stretch Stitch c. Insert the garment under the foot with the top mark on your c. Stop sewing at the left stitch.F foot with the buttonhole mark garment.

Sliding buttonhole footA ing running toward you. c. Lower the presser foot.

3 NOTE: The markings on the slider

are engraved in centimeters.

Adjusting the Stitch Density

Depending upon your fabric or your

own preference in buttonholes, you 1)may alter the buttonhole stitch

density within the blue buttonhole r

range on the stitch length dial.

1. For less density, turn the dial

toward 1 , r .

2. For more density, turn the dial 3

toward "0".

NOTE: Always make a practice but- 4

tonhole on a scrap fabric you

plan to use to find the more

suitable stitch length. Stretch Stltch

38




4. a. Set the stioch selector at 5. a. Set the stitch selector at j 6. a. Set the stitch selector at 7, Remove the fabric and cut the

b, Sew 4 to 6 stitches, b. Sew until you reach the back of b. Sew 4 to 6 stitches, hole open with the buttonhole

opener in your accessory storagec. Stop sewing at the ight stitch, the buttonhole cc Stop sewing at the left stitch, box.

c. Stop sewing at the right stitch,

NOTE

When sewing at the edge of fabric, set

sliding buttonhole foot as illustrated

and sew in reverse I3

39




Sew in a Zipper

Fabric Preparation: Set the Machine

Put the top sides of the fabric together Stitch width 0.2 to 0.3 con te

and sew to the end of the zipper control 0

opening. Use the reverse to lock the

stitches.

Sew the zipper opening with stitch

length at 4 and top thread tension Bhottrnpat -3 . side of

Top thread tension fabriccontrol 2 to 6Botmsd

Stitch length j o-abi

s control 2

- ~~Ldofoenn To Sew: 4. Attach the presser bar to the right

~~~~ ~~ N . Reset stitch length at 2 and top pn ntezpe otKthread tension at 2 to 6. 5. Lower the zipper foot on the top

Top side KFold back the left seam allowance side at the bottom of the zipper

of farc- as shown, so that the needle pierces the foldStechSith2. Turn under the right seam allow- and the zipper tape.

ance to form a0.2 to 0.3 cm fold. 6. Sew through the fold and theTop edge of fabric E: Zipper zipper tape to the point where the

foot 3. Place the zipper teeth next to the sie ei s0.2 to 0.3 cm fold and pin in sie e is

To attach the zipper foot: place. 7. Lower the needle to hold the

fabric and raise the presser foot.* To sew on the left side of the zipper,

attach the presser bar to the right pins

on the zipper foot.

on the To sew on the right side of the zipper.no sde 0 attach the presser bar to the left pinsa-. on the zipper foot.

40




1 op side

Slde oft fAhr V

I HottomT ieTu side Top side Top sideoffbr ic of fabri IX ffbi of fabric

8. Open the zipper. 10. Close the zipper and turn the 11. Remove the zipper foot and 14. Stop about 5 cm from the top of

9. Lower the presser foot and stitch fabric top side up. attach the presser bar to the left the zipper,

the rest of the seam, pins on the zipper foot. 15. Lower the needle into the fabric12. Stitch across and below the hot- and raise the presser foot.

torn of the zipper. 16. Remove the basting stitches and

13. Turn the corner and continue to open the zipper.

guide the foot along the zipper 17. Lower the foot and stitch the restteeth, as shown, of the seam. Make sure the fold isStitch through the fabric and evnzipper tape,

41


Shell Stitching



Two-Point Shell Stitching

Set the Machine Set the MachineStitch width Stitch widthcontrol 3 to 5 control 3 to 5

4 1 2 3


zone Here's How cone This stitch can also be used as a

6 tOZ1. Forbesteffect: 2 single overlock stitch as well.

- set the stitch length as you

114A4 desire.

- you may need to tighten the

top thread tension slightly.Stretch Stitch - allow the needle to just l Stretch Stitch

F: Satin stitch clear the folded edge of the

foot fabric when it zigzags. A: Zigzag foot

2. If you sew rows of shell stitches,

The Stitch and Its Uses space the rows 1.5 cm apart.

The Shell Stitch is formed by sewing a You can sew Shell Stitch on knits or

blind hem over folded fabric. Several soft silky wovens in any direction.

rows of shell stitching are called shell

tucks.

Shell stitching can be used to finish

hems, sleeve and neck openings.

Shell tucking can be used to create

scalloped tucks on blouses and

lingerie.

42


Smocking Stretch Patching




Stitch, width Stitch widthcontrol 3 to 5 X cncontrol 5

50,4 )f

Top thread tension op ad Stitch length controlcontrol 2 to 6 Stitch length control o2 yohlo ttc e h stitro

scretch stitch rcosition o s ho 20o

2

2 3 The Stitch and Its UsesFor patching worn out elbows or

3 knees.4

[7 - Stretchtitch

FF_____ tec Stch I F-Vý

A: Zigzag foot A Zigzag foot

With the stitch length at "4", sew

straight stitching lines 1 cm apart

across the area to be smocked.

Knot the threads along one edge. Pull

the bobbin threads and distribute the

gathers evenly. Secure the threads at

the other end. Sew the decorative

stitch between the gathering stitches.

Pull out the gathering stitches,

NOTE: Loosen the top thread

tension to make gathering

easier.

43


Fagoting Stitch Herring Bone Stretch




Stitch width Stitch widthcontrol 5 Z control 3 to 5

0 1 0

I I12

~I I

Top thread tension - Top thread tensioncontrol 3 to 8 Stitch length control 2 to 6 Stitch length

control 0.5 to 2 control yelentow • stretch stitch

[61 Here's How5 Here's How

Nal 1. Fol une ac arc de 4 ) 3 Place the fabric top side up, and sew1.5 cm and press. 3 1 cm from the edge.

2. Pin the two edges to paper or Trim close to stitching. The stitch will

Stretch Stitch tear-away backing 0.2 to 0.3 cmprevent raveling.

F apart. R Stretch Stitch

3. Sew slowly, guiding the fabric so

the needle catches the folded

edge on each side.The Stitch and Its Uses The Stitch and Its Uses

Use this stitch to join two pieces of Use as hemming stitch for blankets,

fabric to create an open work tablecloth and draperies.

appearance and add design interest,

44


Elastic Stretch Stitch Box Stitching




Stitch width Stitch widthcontrol 3 to 5 control 3 to 5

1234 234


control yellow control pinkstretch stitch zoneposiliono • 2 Use this stitch to join heavy weight

3 4 Overlap two raw edges together and DSrth tth interlining._use this stitch to join them.

Stretch Stitch

A: Zigzag foot A: Zigzag foot

Choose this stitch to attach elastic to

garments.

1. Mark the elastic into quarters and

match these to the center front,

center back and side seams.

2. Place the middle of the elastic

under the center of the presser

foot and stitch into place, making

sure the elastic is evenly distri-

buted.

45

SECTION 4. PERFORMANCE PROBLEMS CHART

What to Do When



PROBLEM PROBABLE CAUSE CORRECTION

Incorrect size needle. Choose correct size needle for thread and fabric.Improper threading. Rethread machine.Loose upper thread tension. Tighten upper thread tension.

Irregular Stitches Pulling fabric. Do not pull fabric; guide it gently.

Loose presser foot. Reset presser foot.Unevenly wound bobbin. Rewind bobbin.Nicks or burrs at hole of needle plate. Replace needle plate, or polish off burrs completely.

Pulling fabric, Do not pull fabric; guide it gently.Breaking Needle Incorrect size needle. Choose correct size needle for thread and fabric.Incorrect setting of needle. Reset needle,

Loose presser foot. Reset presser foot.

Upper and lower threads not drawn back When starting a seam be sure to draw both threads under andBunching of Thread under presser foot before starting seam. back of presser foot about 10 cm and hold until a few stitches

are formed.

Incorrect thread tension. Reset thread tension.Using two different sizes or kinds of thread. Upper thread and bobbin thread should be same size anid kind.

Puckering Bent or blunt needle. Insert new needle.Loose presser foot. Reset presser foot.Fabric too sheer or too soft. Use underlay of tissue paper.

46

SECTION 4. PERFORMANCE PROBLEMS CHART



PROBLEM PROBABLE CAUSE CORRECTION

Incorrect size needle, Choose correct size needle for thread and fabric.

SipnStthsBent or blunt needle. Insert new needle.SipnStthsIncorrect setting of needle. Reset needle.

Tight upper thread tension, Loosen upper thread tension,- -- - -- ---- ---- - --

Starting to stitch too fast. Start to stitch at a medium speed,Improper threading. Rethread machine.

Brekin UperThradTight upper thread tension,. Loosen upper thread tension,Brekig pprradIncorrect size needle. Choose correct size needle for thread and fabric.

Sharp eve in needle. Insert new needle.

Nicks or burrs at hole of needle plate. Replace needle plate, mi polish off burrs completely.

Breaking Bobbin Thread Improper bobbin threading. Check bobbin threading.

Lint in bobbin holder or hook race. .Clean bobbin holder and hook race,

Darning plate in place. Remove darning plate.Fabrc nt Mvin Sttch engh st a oAdjust Stitch Length Control.

FarcntMvntithrLeaknotted uner abric Place both threads back under presser foot before beginning

Push-pull clutch is disengaged. to stitch,Push in the clutch.

Machine Jamming Knocking Noise Thread caught in hook race. Disassemble and clean hook race.Lint in bobbin holder or hook race. Clean bobbin holder and hook race.

47

SECTION 5. CARE FOR YOUR MACHINE

Replace the Light Bulb Clean the Bobbin Holder



To insure that your machine operates at its best, you need to keep theessential parts clean at all times.

The bobbin area can attract dust and lint. Your machine can become sluggish

or knock loudly if a thread is caught.

1 Unplug the machine and open the

face cover.

CAUTION' The lght bulb will he4,..

H OT. Protect your Bb i

fngers when you cvrp.lt ---handle it. Follow these directions: 4. Brush or vacuum the dust and lint 6. Slide on the bobbin cover plate by

2 Ps ubu n unte 1. Turn off the power or unplug the out of the bobbin holder, pushing it into the grooves.

bulb counter-clockwise to remove machine. 5. Replace the bobbin.

ltt 2 Remove the bobbin cover plate by

3. Put the new bulb in by pushing it firmly pulling it toward you.

up and turning it clockwise. 3. Remove the bobbin.

48

SECTION 5. CARE FOR YOUR MACHINE

Clean the Hook Race and Feed Dogs Oiling the Machine



Open face cover plate and oil points as shown below at least once a year. One or

two drops of oil is sufficient.

Remove excess oil, otherwise it may stain fabrics.

1.Unplug the machine and remove 5. Take out the bobbin. Lift up the

the presser foot and needle, bobbin holder and remove it.

2. Remove the bobbin cover plate.

3. Remove the screw on the left side 7of the needle with the large screw

driver.

4. Remove the needle plate. In case machine is not used for anextended time, oil it before sewing.

Use good quality sewing machine oil.

No other oiling is required

Above points are only area which

- require oiling on this machine.

6. Use the lint brush to clean the 7. Line up the triangle marks and

feed dogs, hook race and bobbin position the bobbin holder so

holder. Also use a soft, dry that the notch fits next to the

cloth, stopper in the hook race.

Printed in Taiwan

49



652-800339 E-N)

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