Copyright©2015byTanyaWendelkenAllrightsreserved.

PublishedintheUnitedStatesbyPotterCraft,animprintoftheCrownPublishingGroup,adivisionofPenguin

RandomHouseLLC,NewYork.

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POTTERCRAFTandcolophonareregisteredtrademarksofPenguinRandomHouseLLC.

LibraryofCongressCataloging-in-PublicationDataWhelan,Tanya.

Sewmanydresses,sewlittletime:theultimatedressmakingguide:interchangeablepatternstocreate200+

uniquedresses/TanyaWhelan.–FirstEdition.

pagescm

(alk.paper)

1.Dressmaking.I.Title.

TT519.5.W442015

646.4–dc23

2014040704

ISBN978-0-7704-3494-6

eISBN978-0-7704-3495-3

PhotographsbyTanyaWhelan

IllustrationsbyTanyaWhelan,BarryBecker,andBarbieMcCormick

TechnicalandeditorialcontributionsbyBarbieMcCormick

StylinganddressmakingbyTanyaWhelanandSandraHutton

JacketdesignbyStephanieHuntwork

JacketphotographbyTanyaWhelan

v3.1

TOMYMOTHER-IN-LAW,MAXINEWENDELKEN,themostglamorousandbeautifulwomanIevermetinreallife,andanexpertdressmakerand designer in her own right. Those pictures of you in thosebeautiful dresses that youmade yourself have alwaysmesmerizedme and helped motivate me to write this book. Thank you forinspiringme,Maxine.Iloveyou.

CONTENTS

INTRODUCTION

HOWTOUSETHISBOOK

TOOLSANDSUPPLIES

FABRICS

DRESSMAKINGBASICS

USINGTHEPATTERNS

ASSEMBLINGADRESS

DAY-TO-EVENINGSHEATH

thebasicbodice

GRECIANGODDESSDRESS

theone-shouldervariations

AFTERMIDNIGHTDRESS

thesimpleyokevariation

PATTERNDESIGNSPOTLIGHT

dartmodifications

SECRETGARDENPARTYDRESS

thestraplessbodice

BEACHBONFIREDRESS

thehalterbodice

VINTAGE-STYLEROCKABILLYDRESS

thegathereddartsandyokevariation

STUDIO54HALTERGOWN

thegatheredhalterbodice

SIMPLESOIREEDRESS

thecowlneckbodice

FARMERS’MARKETFROCK

themock-wrapbodice

TRÈSBROOKLYNKNITDRESS

theprincessbodice

AUDREYHIGHTEADRESS

theoff-the-shouldervariation

BROCADEHIGHBALLDRESS

thehighv-neck

SUMMERFRIDAYSHEATH

thescoopneck

SODASHOPDRESS

thedeepv-neck

MINIMALISTWEDDINGGOWN

theboatneck

DOTTYFORYOUDRESS

thesweetheartvariation

PATTERNDESIGNSPOTLIGHT

collardrafting

MAGGIEROSEDRESS

themandarincollar

ZIGZAGSHIRTDRESS

thebutton-downbodice

ZOOEYFIT-AND-FLAREDRESS

thepeterpancollar

CITYCHICLBD

thecapsleeve

AUTUMNINNEWYORKDRESS

theshortsleeve

FIRSTDAYATTHEOFFICEDRESS

thethree-quartersleeve

SKATERPONTEDRESS

thelongsleeve

PATTERNDESIGNSPOTLIGHT

sleevemodifications

NIGHTATTHEOPERAGOWN

thebiasskirt

BRUNCHINPARISDRESS

thesix-panelskirt

EYELETSUNDRESS

thedirndlskirt

PERFECTDAYFORAPICNICDRESS

thepleatedskirt

VALENTINE’SDAYDANCEDRESS

thebox-pleatvariation

SIMPLYCHICDRESS

thestraightskirt

PATTERNDESIGNSPOTLIGHT

skirtmodifications

DIANEWRAPAROUNDDRESS

theA-linewrapvariation

FIRSTANNIVERSARYDRESS

thecircleskirt

BASICPATTERNALTERATIONS

TORSOLENGTHADJUSTMENTS

BUSTADJUSTMENTS

NECKADJUSTMENTS

SHOULDERADJUSTMENTS

SLEEVEADJUSTMENTS

SKIRTADJUSTMENTS

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS

FABRICRESOURCES

ABOUTTHEAUTHOR

PATTERNS

INDEX

M akingadressisnothard!Infact,makingadressisoftenmorestraightforwardthanmakingahandbag.Andwiththeinterchangeablepatternsinthisbook,

designingandcreatinghundredsofuniquelooks—219dresses,tobeexact—iswellwithinreach.

Thesecretisthatthewaistdartsandmeasurementslineupperfectlywitheachbodiceandskirtinthiscollection,makingthepatternscompletelyinterchangeable.Assomeonewhohassewnfromindividualdresspatternsforyears,Imustadmittobeingalittleembarrassednottohaverealizedearlierthatasystemofinterchangeablebodiceandskirtpatternswasapossibility.

Fitteddresseswithwaistseamsactuallyallsharethesamebasicconstruction,sotheoretically,youshouldbeabletoswitchthebodiceofanyfitteddresspatterntotheskirtofanotherpattern.Butinreality,youwouldprobablyhavetomakeafewchangestothepatterns,suchasmovingthewaistdartsandalteringthewaistwidth.Iwantedtomakethisprocesseasy-peasy,soIcreatedasetofbasicpatternsforbodicesandskirtsthatmeetperfectlyatthewaisttobecombinedandinterchangedaccordingtoyourdressmakinginstincts.Insteadofsimplysewingfrompatterns,Iwantyoutoknowthatyoucanindeeddesignyourowndresses,customizedwiththesilhouetteandfitthatyoudesire.

Evenexperiencedsewersaresometimesnervousabouttheideaofmakingadressforthemselves.Afterall,unlikeanaccessory,aquilt,orahome-decoratingitem,adressissomethingyouactuallywearonyourbodyoutintheworld.Ithinkmanysewershavethesensethatdressmakingistoodifficultorrequiresaveryspecializedknowledgeofsewing,andthatwhatevertheymakeisgoingtoenduplooking“homemade”sothewholedressmakingbusinessisbestlefttoprofessionalsorveryexperiencedsewers.Butthere’snoneedtofear!Inpastgenerationsitwasverycommonforhomesewerstomaketheirowndresses.Inhighschoolsacrossthecountry,homeecclassestaughtthebasicsofsewingandclothingconstructionsopeopleknewthatmakingclothingwassomethingtheaveragepersoncould—andshould—do.Ifyou’veevercheckedouttheinsideofdressesfromavintageshop

should—do.Ifyou’veevercheckedouttheinsideofdressesfromavintageshopyou’llseethatmanyofthemdon’thavelabelsandwereinfactmadebyhomesewers.Ican’tactuallyrememberseeingadressinavintageshopandthinking,“Boy,thatlookshomemade.”UsuallyI’mjustthinkingaboutthedesign,thecut,thefabrics,andthefinishingtechniquesusedinthegarment.

WhenIstartedwritingthisbook,Ihadaconversationwithmymother-in-law,whowasaprofessionaldesigner,seamstress,andincrediblystylishladyinNewYorkCityinthe’60s,abouttherevelationthatsewingadressisreallysomucheasierthanpeopletodaythinkitis.Sheagreedthatwomenusedtomakedressesallthetimeandwomentodaycoulddoit,too.ShelatershowedmepicturesofherselflookingtotallyMadMen’60sglaminbeautiful,simple,andclassicfittedsheathdressesshehadmadeherself.Talkaboutinspiration.

Ifyouknowhowtouseasewingmachineandwanttodesignandsewyourowndresses,thisbookisforyou.Advancedbeginnerswillfindsimplestep-by-steppatternsandinstructionstomakebeautiful,classicdresses.Forcompetentsewerswhohavesewnwithpatternsbefore,thebookoffersacompletesetofdependableinterchangeablebodiceandskirtpatternsthataddupto219possibleuniquedresses.Ifyouarecuriousaboutpatterndesign,therearesimpletechniquesformodifyingpatterns.Doyouwanttolearntoalterapatterntofityourfigurebetter?Thisbookcoversthataswell.

Ultimately,IhopethatSewManyDresseshelpsyoutomakeabeautifuldress(betteryet,anentirewardrobeofdresses),followingyourownsenseofdesign,thatyoufeelwonderfulin.

HOWTOUSETHISBOOKMorethan200uniquedressescanbemadewiththeinterchangeablebodiceandskirtpatterns,necklinetemplates,andsleevepatternsincludedintheenvelopeatbackofthebook.Eachprojectincludesinstructionsandillustrationsfortheindividualpatternpieceaswellasstepstojointheskirtstothebodicesandthebodicestothesleeves.Inadditiontothedownloadablepatterns,Ialsoprovidestep-by-steptutorialstomakeeasypatternsforcircleskirts,gathered,andpleatedskirts,aswellasavarietyofcollars.Throughoutthebook,PatternDesignSpotlightsshowyouhowtomovedartsaroundthebodice,changedartstogathers,andcreatefullnessinbodicesandskirts.Thesesimpletechniquesopenupahugenumberofpossibledressdesignsinadditiontothe219combinationsusingjustthepatternsandtemplates.

Allofthepatternpiecesaretimeless,versatiledesignsthat,dependingonthe

chosencombinationandfabric,canbeusedtomakeadressthatreflectsyourpersonality,whetherit’stheVintage-StyleRockabillyDressortheclassicDay-to-EveningSheath.Thesepatternswillallowyoutore-createmanyofyourfavoritelooks,assomanyready-to-weardressesaremadewiththissimpleconstructionofabodicesewntoaskirtatthewaist.Thepossibilitiesaretrulyexciting.

Finally,abookaboutfitteddresseswouldn’tbecompletewithoutasectiononalterations.Afterall,ifthedressdoesn’tfityourspecificindividualfigure,itdoesn’tdoyoumuchgood,nomatterhowlovelythedesignmaybe.Inordertoaddresssomecommonfittingproblems,I’veincludedabasicguidetoalteringthepatternsinthisbook.

BEFOREDIVINGINTOTHEPATTERNS,IT’SIMPORTANTFORUSTOreviewthebasicsofdressmaking,fromstockingyoursewingspacewithtoolsandsupplies,tochoosingfabrics,tocuttingandassemblingthefinalgarment.Asyoureadtheprojectinstructions,you’llseemanyreferencesbacktothissection.It’sagreatplacetostart,butalsotorefreshyourmemoryaboutaspecificmethodorprocess.

Thischaptercoversallthebasictoolsandsuppliesthatyou’llneedtocompletetheprojectsinthisbook.There’salsoaguidetounderstandingfabrics:howtochoose,prepare,andcareforthem.Basicstitchesyou’llusefordressmakingarereviewedhereaswell.Inadditiontobasicsewingtechniquesusedfordressmaking,thischapteralsocoversthebasicsofunderstandingpatternmarkings,howtomakefacings,assembleagarmentwithalining,insertazipper,andpadadressformtoyourownmeasurementstoachieveabetterfitinyourfinaldress.Thechapterendswithahandychecklisttoreviewbeforestartingyourdress.

TOOLSANDSUPPLIESTomakethedressesinthisbookyouwillneedthebasictoolsrequiredforanysewingprojectplusafewmore,explainedinthissection.

Sewingmachine.Anybasicmodelwilldo.Iuseaveryinexpensivemachine,anditworksjustfine.

Tracingpaper.Largesheetsifpossiblefortracingthepatterns.Or,youcanuseasee-throughshowercurtainandtracethepatternsusingaveryfineSharpiemarker.

Tape.Usedtoattachtracingpapertogetherwhendraftingoralteringpatterns.

Serger.Thismachineishelpfulifyouplantosewwithknits.Thereareacoupleofdressesinthebooksewnfromponte,adouble-knitfabricthat,unlikemostknits,hasenoughbodythatitcanbeusedforfitteddresses.Ifyoudon’thaveaserger,youcansubstituteawovenfabricthathasabitofspandexinitanduseyourregularmachine.Oruseyourregularmachinetosewknitsusingasmallzigzagstitchandaballpointneedle.

Sewingmachineneedles.You’llneeduniversal,orbasicall-purposeneedles,plusaballpointneedleforsewingknitsandavarietyofmachineneedlesforlight/delicate,medium-,andheavy-weightfabrics.

Invisible-zipperpresserfoot.Thoughyoucanactuallysewaninvisiblezippereffectivelyusingaregularzipperfoot(truthbetold,Ioftendo),aninvisible-zipperfootishelpfulforinsertinginvisiblezippersasitallowsyoutogetveryclosetothezipperteeth.Thoughmostmachinescomewitharegularzipperfoot,theydon’tusuallycomewithaninvisible-zipperfoot.Youcanusuallybuyaplasticonethatworkswithmostmachineswhereverinvisiblezippersaresold,thoughplasticfeetarenotnearlyassturdyasmetalones.Youcanfindametalfootthatiscompatiblewithyourparticularsewingmachineonlineorbycontactingyourmachine’smanufacturer.

Hand-sewingneedles.Varioussizeswillallowyoutobastefabricsandhand-hemskirts.

Thread.Choosethreadthatmatchesthedominantcolorinyourfabric.All-purposepolyesterthreadisthebestchoiceforsewingdressesasit’sstrongandhasabitofflexibility—inotherwords,itwon’tbreakwhenstretchedabit.

Pinsandpincushion.Ifindpearl-tippedpinseasiertoworkwith,butregularpins

workjustfine.Silkpinsareverythinandareusedforsilkandotherdelicatefabrics.

Safetypins.Forturningsmallpieces,suchasstraps,insideout.

Goodfabricshears.Itisreallyworthspendingthemoneyforagoodpairofshearsandhavingthemprofessionallysharpenedwhenneeded.Theymakecuttingsomucheasierandmoreaccurate.Don’tuseyourgoodshearstocutanythingelse!

Regularscissors.Usetheseforcuttingpaperpatterns.

Seamripper.Removetemporarybastingstitchesorsewingmistakeswiththistool.

Pinkingshears.Thezigzagbladehelpstopreventtherawedgesofaseamfromfraying.

Yardstick.Keeponeonhandformeasuringfabricyardageanddraftingpatterns.

LsquareorTsquare.Anyrulerthatwillallowyoutocheckrightangleswillalsowork.Inapinch,youcanuseapieceofpaperinstead.

Softtapemeasure.Thistoolisessentialfortakingaccuratepersonalordress-formmeasurements.

Armholecurveruler,orFrenchcurve(optional).Thismeasuresandmarksarmholesinbodicepatterns.

Hipcurveruler(optional).Usethistomeasureandmarkcurvesforskirts.

Clearruler(optional).Ifyouarealteringpatternsorcreatingavariationofapattern,theinstructionsmaycallforarulerorstraightedge.

Tailor’schalkorchalkpencils.Transfernonpermanentmarkingsfromthepatternstothefabricwitheithertool.

Dressmaker’spencil.Youcangetasharper,moreaccuratelinethanwithchalkusingthesepencils.Themarkingscanbebrushedofforremovedwithadampcloth.

Steamiron.Youwillfrequentlyneedanirontopressopenseams.

Tailor’sham(optional).Thisisveryhandyforpressingcurvedareasofagarmentsuchasdarts,princessseams,andtheshouldersofsleeves,butarolledhandtowelcanalsobeusedinplaceofthisprofessionaltool.

FABRICSThebestwaytolearnaboutfabricsistogotoastorethatsellsalargevarietyofgarmentfabrics.Nothingbeatsseeingandtouchingfabrictounderstanditsqualitiesandhowitwilllookwhensewntomakeadress.Ifyou’reluckyenoughtohaveagoodlocalstore,it’sworthavisittogetabasicunderstandingofdressmakingmaterials.Unfortunately,thisisbecomingmoreandmoredifficulttodoashomegarmentsewingisjustnotascommonasitusedtobe.Eventhebigchainsewingstores,however,willusuallycarrysomevarietyofbasicapparelfabrics.

Comparedifferentfabrics,notingthefibercontent,drape,weight,andtexture,andimaginewhatkindofdresswouldworkbestwitheach.Thisisprobablyprettyintuitiveforyou,becauseevenifyouhaveneversewnyourownclothes,youhaveboughtandwornclothesandhaveasenseofwhatfabricsworkforaneveninggown,casualorbusinessattire,tailoredorflowinggarments.I’vefoundthatstoreswithagoodselectionoffashionfabricswilloftenhaveveryexperiencedandpassionatesewersworkingthere.Don’tbeafraidtoaskaboutaparticularfabric:Whatisitusuallyusedfor?Howdifficultoreasyisittoworkwith?Doesitrequirespecialsewingtechniques,needles,orcleaningmethods?

Ifyou’reunabletocheckfabricsoutinpersonyoucanofcourseshoponline,andmanyofthoseonlinestoressellinexpensiveswatches.Thoughyouwon’tbeabletogetacompletesenseofthedrapeofafabricfromasmallswatch,youcanstillusuallygetaprettygoodideawhetherthefabricwillworkforyourplanneddress.Itmakessensetogetaswatchfirst,especiallywhenbuyingexpensivefabric,asfabricisoftennotreturnable.

Beforeyoupurchasefabric,askyourselfthis:WillthisworkforthedressIwanttomake?Forexample,youwouldn’tchooseaheavywoolforaslinkyeveningdress,ashinysatinforasummerpicnicdress,orasheergeorgetteforabusinessdress.Simplyput,youwantthefabricyou’reusingtolookgoodandtobeabletoachievethedesignyouwanttocreate.Considertheoccasion(business,formal,casual),timeofyear(howwarmorcoolyouwanttobe),andsilhouette(slinkyanddrapeyorstiffandconstructed)tohelpyoutochooseanappropriatefabric.

Andneverskimponquality.Thefabricdoesn’tnecessarilyhavetobeexpensive—

infact,mostofthedressesinthisbookweremadewithinexpensiveyetqualityfabric.Youwillbeputtingalotoftimeandeffortintoyournewdresses,anditwouldbeashametohavetheeffectspoiledbypoorfabric.Ifyouhaveasmallbudget,lookintheremnantsorintheclearancesectionsforlowerpricesonbettergoods.Withthatinmind,herearesomefactorstothinkaboutwhenchoosingfabric:

Fiber.Everyfabrichastwopartstoitsname—afiberandaweave.Fiberisthefabric’scontent,whichcanbenaturallikewool,cotton,silk,andlinen,orman-madefromnaturalfiberssuchasrayon,orsyntheticlikepolyester,nylon,andacrylic.Understandingfibercontentwillhelpyoudeterminethewarmth,breathability,andcleaningrequirementsofyourfinisheddress.Natural-fiberfabricstendtobemoreexpensivethantheirsyntheticorblendedcounterparts.Ifyouarenewtofabricshopping,readthelabelscarefully.Seeifitsays“silk”asopposedto“silkies”;thewordsilkiesusuallyreferstoablendedfabricthatfeelssimilartosilkbutisnotactuallysilk.Fibercontentisalwayslistedinpercentagesontheendofthebolt,suchas“65percentcotton,35percentpolyester.”Naturalfiberswillalwayshandlebetterthantheirblendedorsyntheticcounterparts.Theyareworththeextracostinthetroubletheywillsaveyou,andinthefinishedresult.

Whenshoppingforfabrics,considertheenvironmentwhereyouwillwearyournewdress.Thesearesomeofthecommon(andnotso

common)fabricsthatyouwillfind,organizedbygeneraloccasion.

EVENINGDRESSES

Silk.Anaturalfiber,silkisoftensmoothandshinywithbeautifuldrape,butitcanbehardtoworkwith.Silkisnotalwaysshinyordrapey,however.Dupioniandtaffeta,forexample,haveastiffhand,andsilktweedshandlealmostlikecottonorwool.

Satin.Usuallysmoothandveryshinywithbeautifuldrape,satinissomewhatdifficulttosewwithasitisquiteslippery.Mattesatinsareheavierandeasiertoworkwith,buttheyhavelessdrape.Silksatinissimplertohandlethanpolyestersatinofthesameweight.

Georgette.Georgetteisalightweight,semisheerfabricwithacrepetexture.Duetoitslightness,itcanbedifficulttosewwith.

Crepe.Crepecanbemadeofnaturalorsyntheticyarnsandcomesindifferentweights,fromsuperlightweightandsheersilkchiffontoheavywoolcrepecoating.Four-plysilkcrepeisaveryluxuriousfabricwithasoftsheen.Ithasacrinklytextureandgenerallyanicedrape,plusit’sfairlyeasy

tosewwith.Crepeshapeseasilyandhasafairamountofgive,soitiscomfortabletowear.It’sgreatforsewingbias-cutgarmentsbecauseofitsstability.Evenwoolcrepemakesalovelycocktaildress.

Lace.Aneveningorcocktaildresscanbewonderfullyelegantinlace.Lacecanbemadeofnaturalorsyntheticfibersandmayhavespandexaddedforstretch.Becauseyoucanseethroughit,aliningorunderliningisnecessary.

Charmeuse.Oftenusedinnightiesorpajamas,thisiswhatmostpeoplethinkofas“silk.”Itisaverysoft,fluid,shinysatin.Thebestcharmeuseismadefromsilkandisalsoreadilyavailableinpolyester.Thesilkiseasiertoworkwithandmakesawonderfulgownoraluxuriouslining.

Chiffon.Chiffonisverythinandsheerwithabeautifuldrape.Smallneedlesmustbeused,andgreatcaremustbetakeninallsteps,sinceitiseasilydistorted.

CrepedeChine.Thislightweight,beginner-friendlycrepeismadefromsilk(alsofoundinpolyester)andhasbeautifuldrape.

Dupionisilk.Thiscrispsilk,withbodyandslubbedtexture,isfairlyeasytosewwith.

Faille.Lightweightwithaslightlusterandribbedtexturethatmakesitnottoodifficulttosewwith,faillecanbemadefromsilk,cotton,orsyntheticfibers.

Habotai.AlsoknownasChinasilk,it’snottheeasiesttosewwith,butbeingthinandlightweightmakesitaniceliningorunderlining.

Matelassé.Thisdouble-layerfabriciswoveninsuchawaythatthetoplayerformsaraisedpattern,almostgivingtheappearanceofbeingquilted.Insilkorwool,itisverysoft.Incotton,ithasafirmerhandandastructureddrape.Eitherway,matelasséisfairlyeasytoworkwith.

Organza.Asheer,stifffabricmadefromsilkorpolyester,organzaisgreatforoverlaysandunderlining.

Shantung.Verysimilartodupioni,shantunghasasmoothertexturewithonlyfaintslubs.

Taffeta.Averyfirm,stifflywovensilkorpoly,itisgoodforstructuredgarmentsandfullskirts.Itispronetopuckeredseamsifthesewerisn’tcareful.Funfact:Taffeta’scharacteristicrustlingsoundiscalledscroop.

Chantillylace.Averyfine,flatlace,thisfabricusuallyhasafloraldesignandaveryfinenetbackground.NamedfromtheregioninFrancewhereitoriginated,realChantillylaceismadewithsilkorlinenandisveryexpensive.Manyimitationsabound,generallymadefrompoly,nylon,orrayon.Itisverydelicateandsnagseasily,socaremustbetakentoensurethatthegarmentwillbedurable.

Alençonlace.Aheavy,cordedlace,itssubstantialdimensionsandsturdinesshelphideflawsandhand-sewing.WithbothChantillyandAlençonlace,lookforthe“eyelashes”ontheedgesofthescallops;therealFrenchlaceswillhavethesehangingfree.Iftheeyelashesareconnectedwithnettingormissingaltogether,itisasynthetic,machine-madelace,whichislessexpensivethantheimportsandoftenfairlygoodquality.

OFFICEDRESSES

Wool.Woolisawonderfulfibertobothsewandwear.Itcomesinmanydifferentweaves,weights,andknits;presseslikeadream;andisbreathableandneverclammy.Apairofwooltrousersworninthesummerwillfeelmorecomfortablethanapairofpolyestertrousers.Tropical-weightwoolsareverythinandsmooth,perfectforeventhehottest,mosthumidclimates.Woolflannelisniceandcozyforcolderdays.Andwoolcoatingwilltailorbeautifullyintoanovercoat.Woolfibersnaturallyhavesomeelasticity,soallwoolfabricswillhavesomegivetothem.

Ponte.Asmooth,firm,double-knitfabric,mostpontesaremid-tolightweightand,becauseoftheirstability,arefairlyeasytoworkwith.

Cotton.Awonderfulfabricforcomfortandversatility,cottoniseasytoclean,easytofind,andeasytosewandpress.Fairlyinexpensive,itcomesinaninfinitevarietyofweaves,knits,textures,andweights.

Rayon.Sometimesknownas“imitationsilk,”rayonisaman-madefibercreatedfromcelluloseandcotton,wood,orevenbamboopulp.Ithasabeautiful,languiddrapeandeitherashinyormattesurface.Mediumandheavierweightsarenothardtosewwith,butthelighterweightsandsomeofthelightknitscanbetrickytohandle.OnceknownforHawaiianshirtsand’80speasantskirts,rayonhasseenasurgeinpopularityrecentlyandisoftenusedbyitselforasablendinready-to-weargarments.

Twill.Thissturdyweave,commonincotton,wool,andsilk,hasanidentifiablediagonalrib.Mostdenimisatwillweave.Thesteeperthediagonal(whenlookingatthefabriclengthwise),thesturdierandmoredurablethefabric.

Gabardine.Easytohandleandpress,gabardineisatypeoftwillweave,whichhasmoreweft(crosswise)yarnsthanwarp(lengthwise)yarns.Itisoftenmadefromwoolbutisalsoavailableincottonsorsynthetics.Woolgabardineispopularforsuitsanddresses,asitisstainandwaterresistant.

Piqué.Usuallymadefromcotton,orsometimessilk,piquéhasasmall

woventextureofvariousdesigns,suchasabasketweaveorabird’s-eye.Itsfirm,crisp,yetpliablehandmakesiteasytosewandisexcellentfordressshirtsorjackets.

Poplin.Asturdy,plainweavewithacrisphand,thismedium-toheavyweightwovencottonisprettyeasytosew,butitsstiffnessdoesn’tlenditselftoeasingorgathering.

Broadcloth.Aplain-woven,medium-lightfabric,broadclothisveryeasytosew.It’softenfoundasacottonorcotton-polyblend.Itwasoriginallynamedbecauseitwasthefirstclothtobewovenonso-calledwidelooms,at45"(114cm),whichisnowthestandardwidthforgarmentfabric.

Silktweed.Spunwithlarge,texturalyarns,thisissimilarinappearancetowooltweed,butlighterinweight.

Flockedtaffeta

CASUALDRESSES

Cotton.Awonderfulandversatilefiber.Thinkofyoursturdiestjeans,andyoursoftestT-shirt;theyarebothmadefromcotton.Theeasiestcottontosewisafirm,plain-wovenfabric.Itwon’tdistortrandomly,itfeedsreadilyunderthesewingmachine,anditpressesquiteeasily.

Voile.Averylightweight,mostlysheerfabric,ofplainweave,voilecanbe

difficulttohandlebecauseofitsairiness.Usuallyyouwillfinditasacottonvariety,butsometimessilkorsyntheticsareavailable.

Batiste.Thisverythin,lightweightfabrichasaplainweavebutisheavierthanvoile.Becauseit’susuallymadefromcottonoracotton-polyblend,itisfairlyeasytosewwithandworkswonderfullyasalininginsummerclothes.

Linen.Madefromtheflaxplant,linenisverydurable,strong,andeasytoworkwith.Thereisverylittlegiveinthefibers,andindrierclimates,itwrinklesalotsoitisoftenblendedwithcottonorrayontoreducewrinkling.Verycoolandcomfortabletowear,itisusuallyfoundinplainorjacquardweavesandsometimesinknits.

Challis.Asoft,crinklytextured,lightweightfabric,it’sgreatfordressesandflowingskirts.Oftenmadefromrayon,challisisalsofoundinwoolandvariousblends.It’snottheeasiesttoworkwithbecauseofitslightandairytexture,butit’sveryforgivingofsewingflaws.

Dottedswiss.Alightweight,plain-weavecottonfabricthathassmalldotswovenintothefabricatregularintervals.Swisscottonisverysmoothandsoftbetweenthedots,andoneofthemoreexpensivecottons.Imitationdottedswissisoftenapoly-cottonblend,inwhichthedotsareeitherflockedorembroidered.Itismuchlessexpensivethantherealthing,andusuallyisofferedinmorecolors.

Eyelet.Usuallycotton,butoftenacotton-polyblend,thismedium-tolightweightfabrichasbeenembroideredwithaseriesofeyelets,andusuallysmallflowersorvines.Cheapereyeletsareusuallysolidfabric,andsomeareevenprinted,notembroidered.Thecircleswithintheeyeletsareusuallycutout,orremovedchemically,sothefabricislightandairy.Easytoworkwith,butdependingonthesizeoftheholesintheindividualeyelets,thefinisheddressmayneedsomethingunderneathit.

Gauze.Usuallymadeincottonorapolyblend,itisalsoavailableinwool(verynice)andsilk(heavenly—ifyoucanfindit!).Thisverylightweight,

crinklytexturedweavecanbetrickytohandlebecauseofitsairiness,butthecottonandwoolvarietiesarenotasdifficulttoworkwith.

Ponteknit

Lawn.Lawnisaverylightweight,plain-weavefabricthatisheavierthanvoilebutlighterthanbatiste.Usuallycotton,thoughitisoftenblended,itisfairlyeasytohandleandpressesverynicely.

Seersucker.Afun,airy,summerweave,seersuckerisoftenwovenwithnarrowstripesthatalternatebetweensmoothandpuckered.It’salsoavailableinsolidsandplaids.Thisfabricisusuallycotton,butcanoftenbefoundinpoly,polyblends,andsilk(whichismoredifficulttoworkwith).Mostarelighttomediuminweightandperfectforshirts,shorts,suits,skirts,anddresses.

Chambray.Amedium-weightplainweave,chambrayusuallyischaracterizedbythewarpthreadsbeingcolored,whiletheweftthreadsarewhite.Mostoftenseeninblue,itresembleslightweightdenim,butitisalsoavailableinmanycolors.Oncewashed,chambrayhasasoftbutsubstantialhandandisquiteeasytosew.

Quilting-weightfabric.Amedium-tolightweightplain-weavefabric,quiltingfabricsareverydurable,andlendthemselveswelltoskirts,tops,anddresses.Good-qualityquiltingfabricsaremoreexpensivethanthestandardweightyou’llfindatalargechainstore,buttheyareworthit.

Wovenplaidsuiting

Weave.Weaveisthefabric’sconstruction.Anyfibercanbemadeintoanyweave,butsomearenoteasyoreconomicallyefficient,soyouwon’tfindrayonorganzaorwoolorgandy—atleastnotcommercially.But“satin”isaweave;itcanbesilk,poly,wool(whichisbeautifulandeasytoworkwith),cotton,andmore.

Wovenfabricsaremadeupofinterlacedthreadsrunninglengthwise(alsoknownasstraightofgrainorwarp)andcrosswise(alsoknownasweft)thatrunfromselvagetoselvage.Theyusuallyonlystretchinadiagonal(alsoknownasbias)directionbutcanbestretchyinotherdirectionsiftheycontainspandex.Wovenfabricswithabitofspandexarewonderfulfortailoreddresses.Thefabricretainstheabilitytoholditsshape,allowingalittlebitofgiveforcomfortandacloserfit.Ingeneral,woven

fabricswithahigherthreadcount—thatis,morelengthwiseandcrosswisethreadspersquareinch—arehigherqualityandtendtobeeasiertosewwithasthethreadsdon’twarpasmuchandaremorestable.

Knittedfabricsaremadebyloopingandinterlockingcontinuinglengthsofyarn,andtheystretchasaresultofthisconstruction.Theyrequirespecialtreatmentandequipmentwhensewing.(SeeSerger)

Texture.Fabriccanbesmoothlikevoile,nubbyaswithdupionisilk,roughlikewool,oronlyslightlytexturedlikecrepe.Thesequalitieswillallhaveanimpactontheaestheticqualityofyourfinaldressandhoweasyitistosew.Shinyfabricstendtobeabitmoredifficulttosewbecausethey’reslippery,sonovicedressmakersshouldlookforfabricswithamorestablesurface.

Drape,body,andweight.Howdoesthefabricfall?Isitsoftandlanguidlikeasatinthatwillskimthebody?Orisitstiffwithmorebodylikeacottontwill?Soft,drapeyfabricsarewonderfulforcreatingfemininesilhouettes,whichiswhythey’regreatforeveningwear.Foramoreconstructed,tailoredlookfortheoffice,gowithafabricthatholdsitsshapebetter.

Weightisalsoimportanttoconsiderfordrapeandforwarmth.Isthefabricheavyandthicklikevelvetandbrocade,orisitlightandthinlikesilkandcottonvoile?Heavierfabricstendtohavelessdrape;lighterfabricstendtohavemore.

PREPARINGFABRICSFORSEWINGSo,you’vechosenyourperfectfabricforyourperfectdress;timetostartsewing,right?Notsofast.Cleaningfabrics—eitherinthemachine,byhand,oratthedrycleaners—tendstochangethefabricabit.Fabriccanshrink,orcleaningcanaffectitsfeelandsheen,thereforeit’simportanttopreparefabricsbeforeyousewsoyouknowwhatthefinalproductwilllooklike.Agoodgeneralruleofthumbistopretreatfabricsinthesamewayyouwillcleanthemafterwearing.Thisalsomeansthatthegarmenthastobepretreatedwithallofitscomponentsinmind,soifthedressistobemadewithinterfacings,bonings,padding,andsoon,thosefabricsmustbepretreatedappropriatelyaswell.Pressfabricsthatarewrinkledandcanbesafelypressedbeforesewing.Youwon’tbeabletocutthefabricaccuratelyfromthepatternunlessitisreallywrinkle-free.

Ifyourfabriccanbemachine-washedandmachine-dried,cleanthemthiswaybeforesewing.Ifthefabricisaknit,orhasLycra,washanddryitatleasttwotimes

—ifnotthree—tomakesureithasshrunkasmuchaspossible.Alltoooften,afinishedgarmentcontinuestoshrinkabitmoreineventhenextwashing.Shrinkagewillalmostalwaysoccurmorewithnaturalfibersthanitwillwithsynthetics.Allcottonfabricsshrink,sopreshrinkingthefabricbeforesewingitupintoadressisimportant.Tobeextrasafe,washandmachine-drycottonstwice,astheycanshrinkabitmoreonthesecondwashing.Hand-washandline-drydelicatefabricsbeforesewing.

Woolandlinenfabricsshrinkalot,andalthoughdrycleaningshouldnotcauseshrinkageofthesefabrics,itdefinitelydoeshappen.Tobesafe,havewoolandlinenfabriclightlysteam-pressedatthedrycleanerbeforesewing.

Whileyou’repressingyourfabric,alsochecktoseethatit’songrain.Pullthecornersifneeded,thenpressitflatsoitwillstayongrain(seeTrueing,followingsection).Somelow-qualityfabricswillbebadlyoffgrain,andyou’llneverbeabletostraightenthemorgetafinishedgarmenttohangright.Anotherreasontonotbuylow-qualityfabric!

TRUEINGFABRICAfterpreparingyourfabric,youwillneedtomakesurethelengthwiseandcrosswisethreadsareperpendiculartoeachother.Thisiscalledtrueingorblockingthefabric,andit’simportanttodosothatthefinalgarmentanditsseamswillbestable,smooth,balanced,andsymmetrical.Haveyouevercutapieceoffabricandnoticedthat,eventhoughyoucutitstraight,thecornersarenotatrightangles?Thisisbecausethefabricisoffgrainandneedstobeblocked.It’seasytodo.First,makesurethefabriciscutexactlyalongthecrosswisegrain(fromselvagetoselvage).Youcandothisbymakingasmallcutandthenrippingtherestofthefabricacrossthewidth.Idon’trecommendthisforgoodfabric(butIdoitwithmuslin)becauseyoucandamage2"–3"(5cm–7.5cm)offabricnearthetornedge.

Ifyoudon’thaveenoughfabrictoriskthelossof2"–3"(5cm–7.5cm),youcandothisinstead.Findasinglecrosswisethreadandpickitoutwithapin.Thenpullthethreadout.Thiswillgiveyoualineonwhichtocut.Repeatonbothends(fromselvagetoselvage)ofyouryardage.Next,checkallthecornersagainstarightangle.ATsquare,Lsquare,orevenapieceofpaperwillworkforthis.Ifthey’renotsquare,simplypullthefabricdiagonally(onthebias)inbothdirections.Checkthecornersagainagainstarightangle.Continueblockinguntilallcornersareperfectrightangles.Pressthefabrictokeepittrue.

DRESSMAKINGBASICS

TYPESOFSTITCHESYoureallyonlyneedafewbasicstitches—mostlyonasewingmachine—tomakethedressesinthisbook.Therearelotsofuseful,evenbeautifulhandstitches,butyoudon’tneedmanyfortheprojectsinthisbook.

MACHINESTITCHES

Straightstitch.Thisistheessentialstitchthatyou’lluseforalmostallstitching.

Zigzag.Youcanusethisstitchtofinishtherawedgeofaseamallowancetopreventitfromfraying.Oruseanarrowzigzagstitchtosewknits,asthezigzagstitchwillstretchwiththefabric.

Overlockstitch(optional).Somesewingmachinescomewiththisstitch,whichresemblesthestitchofasergersewingmachineandrequiresaspecialpresserfoot.Itfinishestherawedgeofaseambywrappingthreadaroundtheedge,preventingitfromfraying.Theoverlockstitchusesalotofthread,isslowtouse,andcanbeabitbulky,butifyouhaveafabricthatisparticularlypronetofraying,itcomesinhandy.

Sergerstitch(optional).Youneedaspecialsergersewingmachineforthisstretchystitchthatisusedtosewknits.Itisalsousedtofinishtherawedgesofseamallowancesbycoveringtheminthread.Lookattheseamallowancesofalmostanymanufacturedgarmentandyou’llseesergerstitches.

Staystitching.Staystitchingisdonetostabilizeacurve,likeanecklineorarmhole,inagarmenttopreventitfromstretchingoutofshape.Whenfabriciscutinacurvedshape,itcanpotentiallystretchbecauseanycurvenecessitatescuttingthefabriconthebias.Youcanstaystitchthecurvedopeningsofyourfabricafteryoucutitout.Useashortstitchlengthandsew⅛"(3mm)awayfromthestitchingline,towardtheseam-allowancerawedge.Thiswillensurethatthestaystitchingishiddenintheseamwhenthegarmentisassembled.

Fromthetop:astraightstitch,zigzagstitch,andabastingstitch

Amachine-hemmedskirt

Machinehemming.Allormostnon-circleskirtpatternsinthisbookaremadewithabuilt-in⅝"(1.5cm)hemallowance.Narrowhemsaregoodtouseonverylightweightfabricslikechiffon.Tomakeanarrow⅝"(1.5cm)hem,foldandpress

therawedgeofthebottomofthegarmenttothewrongsideby¼"(6mm).Foldandpressagainby⅜"(1cm).Stitchclosetothefoldededge.Thefinishedhemwillmeasure⅜"(1cm).Youcanaddabittothepatternhemforawiderhem,whichistypicallyusedforfabricswithmorebodyandstiffness.Tomakeawiderhem,addthedesiredamounttothe⅝"(1.5cm)seamallowance.Forafinishedhemthatmeasures1"(2.5cm),add1"(2.5cm)tothepatternhem.Foldandpressthehemtotheinsidefirstby⅝"(1.5cm)andagainby1"(2.5cm).Stitchclosetothefoldededge.

Narrowhemforacircleskirt.It’sdifficulttosewaneathemonacircleskirtbymachineunlessitisverynarrow.Thisisbecausetherawedgeofthefolded-underhemwillbewiderthanthefold.Thebiggerthehem,themoreofaproblemthisbecomes.Thinkaboutfoldingthewideedgeofaconeundertovisualizetheconcept.Thesolutionistosewaverynarrowhemsothatthereislittledifferencebetweentheedgeandthefold.Foldtheedgeoftheskirttotheinsideby¼"(6mm)andpress.Stitchthehem⅛"(3mm)fromthefold.Trimtheseamallowanceclosetothestitching.Foldoveragainby¼"(6mm)andstitchclosetothefoldededge.

Acircleskirthemfoldedonceandtrimmed

Acircleskirthemfoldedtwice

Ablindhemstitchinprogressontheinsideofagarment

Afinishedblindhemstitchontheoutsideofthegarment

HANDSTITCHESBastingstitch.Abastingstitchisalong,straight,easy-to-removerunningstitchthatisusedtotemporarilyholdtwopiecesoffabrictogether.

Blindhemstitch.Thisstitchisusedforhemmingfinelytailoredsuitsanddresses.It’salsogreatforsewingcircularhemslikeonacircleskirtwheremachine-hemmingisdifficult.Thisstitchisbarelyvisibleontheoutsideofthegarment.Beginbytakingthefirststitchinthefoldofthehem.Thenpickupjustoneortwothreadsfromtheskirtwithyourneedle.Movingfromrighttoleft,passtheneedlethroughthehemfoldagain.Don’tpullthethreadstootight,justenoughsothatthehemliesflatagainsttheskirt.Continueinthiswayuntilthehemissewn.

MAKINGAMUSLINAmuslin,alsoknownasatoile,isatestgarmentmadefrominexpensivefabric.Unbleachedcottoncalledmuslinisusedoftenforthisstep(hencethename),butamuslindoesn’tneedtobemadefrommuslinfabric.Useanyinexpensivefabricthatiscloseinweightanddrapetothefabricyouintendtouseforthefinisheddress.

Thistestgarmentallowsyoutomakesurethesewingpatternworksandthefitisgoodbeforecuttingyourmoreexpensivefabric.Ifyoufindproblemswiththefitofthemuslin,youcanmakealterationstothepattern).Afteraddressinganyfittingconcerns,it’sbesttomakeanothermuslintoensureaproperfitbeforeproceedingtousingyourmoreexpensivefashionfabric.

Admittedly,makingamuslinsoundslikeatime-consumingchore,butitisseriouslywellworthit.Youreallydon’tknowhowwellapatternwillworkandfityouuntilyouactuallysewsomethingfromit.Makingamuslintakesmoretimeupfront,butintheendtheprocesssavesyoufromhavingtothrowawaythegarmentbecauseitcannotbefixed.

Thenicethingaboutamuslinisthatit’sfairlyquicktomakecomparedtoanactualfinisheddressbecausethereisnohemming,facing,orfinishingofanykindrequired.Youdohavetoputazipperintobesureitfitsproperly,butbesidesbastingtheseams,that’saboutit.Onceyou’veperfectedthepatternbytestingamuslin,youneverhavetodoitagain.Youcannowusethesamepatternoverandoverwithouthavingtomakeamuslinbecauseyouknowthepatternworks.

PINNINGSomepeoplefeelmorecomfortablepinningbeforesewing,andthat’sfine,butpinningisnotanabsolutenecessity.Irarelydoit,andneitherdoprofessionalsewersinthegarment-manufacturingindustry.Thisisbecauseit’stime-consumingandunnecessary.TherearelotsofthingsIdousepinsfor,suchasattachingaset-insleeve,hemming,andinsertingazipper.Pinningisalsohelpfulwhensewingbiasareasthatstretch,suchasnecklinesandarmholes.Butformostoftheassemblyprocess,ifyou’vecutthefabriccarefullyandaccuratelyfromthepattern,thensimplyliningthepiecesup,usingthenotchestransferredfromthesewingpatternasaguide,andholdingthemtogetherasyousewworksjustfine.Justmakesurethatyourpiecescontinuetolineupasyousew.Thatsaid,whenyoudopin,alwayspinperpendiculartoyourstitchingline.Thismakesitmucheasiertoremovethepinsasyousew.

FACINGVERSUSLININGAcommondressmakingconundrumiswhethertofullylineadressorwhethertousefacingsinstead.Inbothcases,theideaistofinishtheedgeofthedressopenings(exceptthehem)inaneatandinconspicuousway.Bothmethodsworkwellforthis.Forbothfacingsandlinings,youcanuseaninexpensivefabricthatcoordinateswithyourfashionfabric.Youshouldalsochooseonethatwillnotaffectthedrapeofthefashionfabric.

Facings,whenmadecorrectly,havetheadvantageofalsohelpingthegarmentopenings—necklinesandarmholesespecially—tokeeptheirshape.Separatefacingsrequirelessfabric,makingthisoptionabitmoreeconomical.Andseparatefacingsarealittlemorestraightforwardintermsofassemblingthegarment,makingthemagreatoptionforbeginners.

Aliningisoften(butnotalways)madeexactlylikethedressitselfusingthesamepatternbutathinnerliningfabric.Thisisthensewntotheinsideofthedress.Youmaywanttofullylineagarmentifthefashionfabricisscratchyorslightlysee-through.Oryoumaywanttolineonlythebodicetogiveitabitmorestructure.Liningscanbealittlemorecomplicated;adifferentprocedureiscalledforifyou’reliningadresswithabackzipper,asidezipper,orsleeves.Butliningsgiveanicefinishtotheinsideofthedressbyhidingalloftheseamallowances.

FACINGS

FACINGSAfacingisamirrorimageofjustapartofapatternpiece,likeaneckline,armhole,orthetopofaskirt.Makingthefacingslightlysmallerthanthecorrespondingfashionfabrichelpstokeepitfrompeekingoutfrominsidethegarment.

Tomakeafacingforthearmholeand/orneckline,tracetheedgesonboththefrontandbackofthepatternthatyouwanttoface.Wherepossible,makethefacingatleast2"(5cm)wideplustheseamallowances.Makeitevenwiderwherepossible,atthecenterfrontorcenterback,forexample;awidthofmorethan2"(5cm)willhelpkeepthefacingsfromfloppingoutofthebodice.Butyouwon’talwaysbeabletodothis;attheshoulderofabodice,forexample,therewon’tbeenoughwidthtomakeboththenecklineandarmholefacings2"(5cm)plusseamallowanceswithoutsomeoverlap,whichwouldcausebulk.Aslongasmostoftherestofthefacingisatleast2"(5cm)wideplustheseamallowances,itwillwork.Tracethepatterntowithin1⁄16"–⅛"(1cm–3mm)oftheedge.Cuttingthefacingthistinybitsmallerthanthebodicewillhelpthefacingrolltotheinsideofthegarment,makingitlesslikelytopeekoutfromunderthefashionfabric.

Tracingthefacingsforastandardbodicewithshoulders

Tracingthefacingsfromanassembledbodice

Whenmakingafacingforastraplessbodice,youonlyneedtoincludethesideseams,notthefront-orback-shapingseams.Becauseafacingisnotlongenoughtopassoveracurve,itdoesn’tneedtheseshapingseams.Forthesamereason,facingsdon’tgenerallyincludedarts.Tomakethefacingforastraplessbodicefromthepatternpieces,overlapthecenterfrontandsidefrontpiecesatthenotchesthatindicatethe⅝"(1.5cm)seamallowance.Dothesamewiththecenterbackandsidebackpieces.Thepieceswilloverlapby1¼"(3cm).Thiswayyouaretracingthepatternasitwillbewhenitissewn;ifyoudon’texcludetheshapingseamallowances,thefacingwillbetoobig.Tracethetopedgeofthebodice,makingthefacingatleast2⅝"(7cm)wide.Tracetowithin1⁄16"–⅛"(1cm–3mm)ofthetopandsideedgesofthepatterntoensurethefinishedfacingwillrolltotheinsideofthebodice.

Youcanalsotraceanalreadyassembled(sewn)partofthegarmenttomakethefacing.Thisensuresyourfacingwillnotincludetheshapingseamsordarts.Presstheassembledpiecethatyou’retracingverywellfirst.

Facingsareassembledinthesamewayasthegarment—thatis,sewnattheshoulderandsideseamswithrightsidestogether.Afterthefacingsareassembled,theyaresewntotheopeningbeingfacedwithrightsidestogether.Ifthefacingissewntoacurvedarea,likeanecklineorarmhole,theseamallowancesarethengradedandclipped.Thefacingisthenturnedtotheinsideofthegarmentandpressed.Understitchingthefacingtothebodiceseamallowancepreventsitfrompeekingoutofthebodice.

LININGSMostoftenaliningismadeexactlythesamewayasthedress.Sometimes,though,aliningismadedifferentlythanthedresstocutdownonbulk.Forexample,ontheGrecianGoddessDress,theliningisnotgatheredinordertomakethefinishedgarmentlessbulky.Theoutersilhouetteofthelininganddressarethesameshapesotheycanbesewntogetherwithoutaproblem.

Liningastraplessdressoronethatdoesn’thaveashoulderseam,suchasahalter

thattiesaroundtheneck,isprettystraightforward.Theassemblyprocedureisthesameaswhenfacingthesetypesofgarments.

Whenworkingwithadressthatissewnfronttobackwithashoulderseam,theorderinwhichagarmentisassembledisabitdifferentwhenitislinedthanwhenitisfaced.Liningdresseswithabackzipper,sidezipper,orsleevesallrequireadifferentprocedure.

Assemblingalinedsleevelessbodicewithabackzipper

1.Sewthefrontandbackbodicedartsorseamsifyou’reworkingwiththeprincessbodice.Sewthefashion-fabricfrontandbackbodicepieceswithrightsidestogetherattheshouldersonly.Repeatwiththelining.Withrightsidestogether,sewtheliningtothebodiceatthenecklineandarmholes,butnotthesideseams.Gradetheseamsandclipthecurves.

2.Pullthebodicerightsideoutthroughtheshoulders.

3.Arrangethebodicesothatthesideseamsofthefashionfabricarerightsidestogetherandthesideseamsoftheliningarerightsidestogether.Sewinthisposition.Leavethebackseamopenforthezipper.SeeAttachingtheSkirtforhowtoaddtheskirt.

Assemblingalinedsleevelessbodicewithsidezipper

1.Sewthefrontandbackbodicedarts(ortheseamsifyou’reworkingwiththeprincessbodice)ofthefashionfabricandlining.Sewthefashion-fabricfrontandbackbodicepieceswithrightsidestogetherattheshoulderandonesideseam.Repeatwiththeliningfabric.Withrightsidestogether,sewtheliningbodicetothefashion-fabricbodicearoundtheneckline.Gradethenecklineseamsandclipthecurve.

2.Turntheliningtotheinsideofthebodicethroughtheneckline.Foldthefashionfabricupsothatyou’relookingatthewrongsideoftheliningandthewrongsideofthefashionfabric.Grasptheseamallowancesofthefashionfabricandliningunderthearmholeatthetopofthesideseam.Placetheseamallowancessothattheyarerightsidestogetherandpin.

3.Sewtheliningtothebodicewithrightsidestogetheraroundthearmhole.Thisisabitawkward,sotakeyourtimeandmakesureyouaresewingthearmholeseamallowancesonlyandnotstitchingthroughanyotherpartofthebodice.Gradethearmholeseamsandclipthecurve.Repeatwiththeotherarmhole.Leavethesideseamopenforthezipper.SeeAttachingtheSkirtforhowtoaddtheskirt.

Assemblingalinedbodicewithsleevesandsidezipper

1.Sewthefashion-fabricfrontandbackbodicedarts(ortheseamsifyou’reworkingwiththeprincessbodice).Repeatwiththelining.Sewthefashion-fabricfrontandbackbodicepieceswithrightsidestogetherattheshouldersandonesideseam.Ontheothersideseam,sewonlythetop2"(5cm)underthearmhole.Leavetherestoftheseamopenforthezipper.Repeatwiththelining.Sewthesleevestothefashionfabricbodice.Withrightsidestogether,sewtheliningbodicetothefashion-fabricbodiceattheneckline.Gradetheseamsandclipthecurve.

2.Turntheliningtotheinsideofthebodicethroughtheneckline.Turnthebodiceinsideoutsothattheliningisontheoutside.Sewtheseamallowanceoftheliningarmholetotheseamallowanceofthefashion-fabricbodicearmhole.SeeAttachingtheSkirtforhowtoaddtheskirt.

Assemblingalinedbodicewithsleevesandbackzipper

1.Sewthefashion-fabricfrontandbackbodicedarts(ortheseamsifyou’reworkingwiththeprincessbodice).Repeatwiththeliningfabric.Withrightsidestogether,sewthefashion-fabricfronttothebackattheshouldersandsideseams.Leavethebackopenforthezipper.Repeatwithliningfabric.Sewthesleevestothefashionfabricbodice.Withrightsidestogether,sewtheliningbodicetothefashion-fabricbodiceattheneckline.Gradetheseamsandclipthecurve.

2.Turntheliningtotheinsideofthebodicethroughtheneckline.Turnthebodiceinsideoutsothattheliningisontheoutside.Sewthesleeveallowancesoftheliningarmholetothesleeveallowancesofthefashion-fabricbodicearmhole.SeeAttachingtheSkirtforhowtoaddtheskirt.

Addingtheskirttoalinedbodice

Ifyou’reonlyliningthebodicebutnottheskirt,sewthefinishedskirttoboththefashion-fabricbodiceandliningatthesametime.Ifyou’reliningboththeskirtandbodice,firstsewthefashion-fabricskirttothefashion-fabricbodice,thensewtheliningskirttotheliningbodice.SeeAttachingtheSkirtforhowtosewtheskirttothebodice.

INTERFACINGInterfacingmayseemlikeanunnecessarystep,butitreallyhelpsagarmentlookfinishedandwellmade.Interfacingisusedtogivestabilityandstructuretocertainpartsofagarmentthatneedit,especiallycollarsandcuffs.Usedalonganecklinefacing,itpreventsthenecklinefromlosingitsshape.Onthebackofahalter,interfacingpreventsfabricfromstretching,whichwillhelpitstayupwithoutthesupportofastrap.Wheninterfacingisusedwhileinsertingazipper,itpreventsthezipperfromgettingwavy,therebydistortingthesilhouetteofthegarment.Whenusedonafacing,interfacingiscutexactlythesameasthefacingandappliedtothewrongsideofthefabric.Interfacingcomesinlight,medium,andheavyweights,wovenandnonwoven,andfusibleornonfusible(sew-in).You’lluselightormediumweightmostoftenfordressmaking,butalwaysmatchinterfacingweighttofabricweight.

Nonwovenfusibleinterfacingworksgreatformostfashionfabrics.Itisappliedtothewrongsideofthefabric,usuallyafacing,withanironanddampcloththatactivatestheglueintheinterfacingandbondstothefabric.Followthemanufacturer’sinstructionsforfusibleinterfacing;neverirondirectlyonit,orthegluewillsticktoyouriron.

Sew-ininterfacingispinnedandthensewnalongtheedgestothewrongsideofthefabric.Useasmallerseamallowancethanwhatyou’llusetoassemblethegarmentwhenattachingsew-ininterfacingsothatthestitchingwillbehiddenintheseamofthefinishedgarment.Afterattachingtheinterfacing,trimtheseamallowanceoftheinterfacingtoreducebulkintheseam(SeeGradingtheSeamsformoreaboutseamgrading).

Woveninterfacingcomesinbothfusibleandnonfusible.Itisusedwithlightordelicatefabricsbecauseitislesslikelythannonwoveninterfacingtochangethedrapeofthefabric.Cutwoveninterfacingwiththelengthwiseandcrosswisegrainsinthesamedirectionasthefabric.Ifyoudon’t,itcouldnegativelyaffectthedrape

inthesamedirectionasthefabric.Ifyoudon’t,itcouldnegativelyaffectthedrapeofthefabric.

Interfacingcanbeusedwithbothfacingsandlinings.Itiseasiertouseinterfacingwithafacingthanwithalining,however,becauseyoucanusethesamepatternasthefacingtocuttheinterfacingpieces.Withaliningyouwouldhavetomakeapatternfortheinterfacing(inthesamewayyouwouldforafacing)creatinganextrastep.Inbothcasestheinterfacingisappliedtothewrongsideofthefacingorliningaccordingtothemanufacturer’sinstructions.

Thatsaid,it’snotessentialtouseinterfacing,I’vemademanydresses,especiallylessformaldresseslikeasundress,withoutinterfacingthatholdupjustfine.Andlotsofready-to-weargarmentsdon’tincludeinterfacing.Butinterfacingcanhelpagarmenttokeepitsshape.Aswithmanythingsindressmaking,thefabricchoice,thedressdesign,thelookyou’reafter,andhowmuchwearandtearyouwantthefinalgarmenttostanduptowillaffectwhetherornottouseinterfacing.

UNDERLININGUnderliningisoftenusedwithverylightorsheerfabricstolendthemabitmorestructureortopreventthemfrombeingsee-through.Youmightuseunderliningwithlace,forexample,asintheSimplyChicDress.Underliningcanbeusedwithanyweightfabric:Forinstance,amedium-weightfabricforastraplessbodicecouldusemorestructure,soanunderliningwouldbeperfectforthebodice,eventhoughyoumightnotwanttouseitintheskirt.

Theunderliningiscutfromthesamepatternpiecesasthemainfabric.Itisthenpinnedtothewrongsideofthemainfabric,andthetwofabricsarethenbastedtogetherbyhand¼"(6mm)fromtheedge.Thepiecesarealsobastedtogetheralongthedartmarkings.Thefabricandtheunderliningarethentreatedasonefabricwhenassemblingthegarment.Thebastingstitchesareremovedafterthegarmentisassembled.Whenunderliningisused,afacingoraliningisgenerallyrequired,asanunderliningdoesnothingtofinishorcovertherawseamallowances.

BONINGBoningcangiveabodice,especiallyastraplessbodice,morestructuresothatitwillstayupwithoutstraps.Therearemanydifferentkindsofboningusedfordressandcorsetmaking.ForthedressesinthisbookthelightweightflexiblekindcalledRigilenewillworkfine.Itcomesin¼"(6mm)or½"(13mm)widths;eitherisfine.

Itissewndirectlytotheverticalseamallowancesofthesewnliningorunderlining,or,ifyou’renotusingalining,totheseamallowancesofthebodice.Cuttheboningtothelengthoftheseamminus⅛"–¼"(3mm–6mm)topreventtheboningfrompokingoutatthetopandbottomedgesofthebodice.Trimtheendsoftheboningintoacurvedshapetopreventthesharpedgesfrompokingyou,andsewatinypieceofscrapfabrictotheendstopreventtheendsfromscratchingyou.PlacetheRigileneonthepressedopenseamallowance.Stitchdownoneseamallowance,thentheother,sewingittotheseamallowanceonly,notthroughtothefrontofthefashionfabric.

SewingalengthofRigileneintoaseamallowance

ATTACHINGTHESKIRTWhetheryou’vedesignedyourdressforasidezipperorabackzipper,theprocessfor

sewingtheskirttothebodiceisthesame.Makesureallseamsarepressedopenandthedartsarepressedtowardthecenterfrontandcenterback.Arrangeyourskirtinsideout.Placethebodiceinsidetheskirt,rightsidestogether,withtherawedgesofthewaistlinesaligned.Alignthesideseamsanddarts(whereapplicable).Stitcharoundthewaistline.

Fromlefttoright:asidezipperandbackzipper

ZIPPERSInstallingazipperisreallynothard.Ittakesjustabitofpatienceandprecision.Invisiblezippersarethebestoptionforalloftheprojectsinthisbookastheyarebarelyvisible—exceptforthezipperpull—fromtheoutsideofthegarment,andtheymimicthelookofmodernready-to-wearclothing.

Aninvisible-zipperpresserfootisveryhelpful.Ifyoudon’thaveone,youcanbuyauniversalinvisible-zipperfootthatworkswithmostmachinesanywhereinvisiblezippersaresold.Theseplasticfeetcanbeusedsuccessfullytoinstallaninvisiblezipper,butametalfootthatworksspecificallywithyourmachineisthebestoption.Ifyourmachinedidn’tcomewithametalinvisible-zipperfoot,youcanoftenfindonethat’scompatiblewithyourmachineonline.Youcanalsousearegularzipperfootinapinch;itdoesn’tallowyoutogetreallyclosetothezipperteethaseasilyasyoucouldwithaninvisible-zipperpresserfoot,butitcanbeusedeffectivelytoinstallaninvisiblezipper.Iknowafewexpertseamstresseswhousearegularzipperfootforalltypesofzippers.

Preparebyopeningtheinvisiblezipperandpressingitwithyourirononthesyntheticsetting.Thezipperteethwillbecurledupabitinitially.Pressthezipperasflatasyoucangetitsothatyoucanseethestitchingthatrunsnexttothezipper

teeth.Theseamyou’resewingittoshouldbeunsewn.Makesurethattheliningorfacingispressedtotheinsideofthegarment.Bastethefacingorliningtothefashionfabricalongbothsidesoftheopenseam¼"(6mm)fromtherawedge.Finishtheseamallowancesifdesired.

Installingazipper

1.Pintheopenzippertotherightsideofthefabricalongbothseamallowancesasshown.Alignthetopofthezipperwheretheteethendwiththetopoftheopenseam.Alignthezipperteethwiththe⅝"(1.5cm)seamallowancestitchingline(youcanmarkthisbeforehandwithtailor’schalkorbypressingacreasewithyouriron,ifyoudesire)onbothsidesoftheseam.

2.Sewthezippertobothseamallowancesinthisposition.

3.Foldthezippertapesoverthetopedgeandtack(sewacoupleofstitchesinthesameplacetosecure)inplacebyhandormachine.

4.Foldtheseamallowancestotheinsideofthegarmentandtackinplaceatthetopofthezipperthroughthezippertapes.Tofinishsewingtherestoftheseam,switchtoaregularpresserfoot.Pullthebottomofthezipperoutofthewayandstitch.

Azipped-upinvisiblezipper

BUTTONHOLESSewingabuttonholeisnothard,butifyou’veneverdoneityou’llwanttopracticeonsomescrapfabricfirst.Tofigureoutthelengthofthebuttonhole,measurethediameterofthebuttonanditsthickness.Addthesemeasurementstogetherplus⅛"(3mm)andmakeamarkthislengthwithtailor’schalkoradressmaker’spencilonthefabric.

Manymodernsewingmachinescomewithaspecialbuttonholepresserfootandanautomaticone-steporafour-stepbuttonholefunction.Theprocedurediffersslightlydependingonyourmachine,soifyourmachinehasabuttonholefunction,consultyourmachine’smanual.

Allmachine-madebuttonholesconsistofthesameelements,nomatterhowtheyareachieved:twoparallelrowsofnarrow,tightstitchingwithbartacks(reinforcementstitchessewnbackandforthwithoutthefabricmoving)atbothends.Thebuttonholeissewncontinuouslywithoutcuttingthethreadsuntiltheend.

Sewingbuttonholesmanually

1.Setyourmachinetothezigzagstitch.Setyourstitchlengthto0andyourstitchwidthto5.Youmayneedtotryafewdifferentwidthsettingstoachievetherightoneforyourmachineandthefabricyou’reusing.Make5or6bartacksatoneendof

yourbuttonmark.

2.Lifttheneedle.Changethestitchlengthto0.5andthewidthto2.Startwiththeneedleatoneendofthebartackandsewdownonesideofyourbuttonmark.

3.Liftyourneedleandsetthelengthbackto0andthewidthbackto5.Sewanother5or6bartacks.

4.Withtheneedledownandpresserfootup,turnthefabric180degrees.Setthelengthbackto0.5andthewidthbackto2,andsewuptheothersideofthemark.Carefullycutopenthefabricbetweenthestitcheswithaseamripper,takingcarenottocutanyofthestitching.

GRADING,CLIPPING,ANDUNDERSTITCHINGThesethreetechniquesareemployedafterthegarment(orpieceofagarment,suchasacollar)hasbeensewntogetherandthefacingsorlininghavebeenattachedtothegarment.

GRADINGTHESEAMSGradinghelpsreducebulkinaseamsothatitwon’tbebumpyandwilllieflat.Whenseamscanbepressedopen,aswithasideseam,youdon’tneedtogradetheseams.Youdoneedtogradetheseamswhentwoseamallowancesarelyingnextto

eachother,aswithanecklinefacingwheretheseamallowanceofthebodicenecklineandtheseamallowanceofthefacingarenexttoeachother.Itisachievedbytrimmingdownoneseamallowance,oftentohalfthewidthoftheotherseamallowance.

CLIPPINGANDNOTCHINGCURVESToreleasethetensionorreducebulkandensureasmoothcurve,youwillneedtoclipandnotchtheseamallowancesofcurvedseams,likenecklinesandarmholes,afterthey’vebeengraded.Aclipisastraightcut,whileanotchisalittlewedgeshapethathelpstoreducebulk.Clipinsidecurves,likeaneckline;notchanoutsidecurve,likethecurvedtopedgeofasleeve.Eitherway,makesurenottocutthroughthelineofstitching!

Gradedandclippedseamallowancesafterturningandpressing

UNDERSTITCHINGUnderstitchingworkswonderstopreventafacingorliningfrompeekingoutfromyourdress.Afteryou’vesewnthefacingtothebodice,gradetheseamsandcliptheseamallowances,ifyou’reworkingwithacurvelikeaneckline.Pressbothdressandfacingseamallowancestowardthefacingsideoftheseam.Thenstitchbothseamallowances,stayingwithin¼"(6mm)oftheseamstitching,tothefacing.Asyoustitchalongthecurve,keepthefacingandseamallowancesflatastheypassunderyourneedle.Theseamallowanceswillnaturallysplayout,whichistheresultyouwant.

Anunderstitchedcurve

FINISHINGTHESEAMALLOWANCESAh,tofinishornotfinishtherawedges!Likemanythingsindressmaking,itdependsonwhatworksbestforthedesignandthefabric.Finishingtheseamallowancespreventsfrayingoftherawedges,anditalsolooksnice.Butit’snotalwaysnecessary.Theseamallowanceisusuallyfinishedeitherbystitchingitwithazigzagoroverlockstitchonaregularsewingmachineorwithaserger.Theeasiestwaytofinishaseamallowanceistosimplycutitwithpinkingshears,whichdoaprettygoodjobofpreventingfraying.Stitchingtheseamallowanceworksabitbetter,unlessyou’reworkingwithverylight,delicatefabricorsomethingsuperslinky.Inthosecases,thebulkaddedtotheedgeoftheseamallowancecouldmakeabumpthatcanshowontheoutsideofthedress.Fordressesthatyouplantowashanddryinthemachinealot(suchasthosemadeofcotton),finishingtheseamsallowanceswillpreventtheedgesfromfraying.Forthosedressesmadeofsomethingyouplantodryclean,likewool,pinkingtheseamallowancesshouldsuffice.

Singlenotchedseamallowance

DRESSFORMSIfyouplantosewmorethanafewdresses,it’sworthbuyingadressformtohelpyoufityourgarmentstoyourmeasurements.It’seasiertoseeproblemswiththefitonthedressformthanitisbytryingthegarmentonandlookinginthemirror.

Therearemanydifferentkindsofdressforms,butchooseonespeciallydesignedforsewingandfitting.Store-displayformstypicallydon’tcomeclosetolookinglikeanactualhumanbodyastheyhaveodd,unrealisticproportionswithlargebustsandtinywaists.

Dressformsareavailableasadjustableandnonadjustabletypes.Adjustableformsaregreatifyouplantosewforotherpeopleorifyoutendtogoupanddowninsize.Theyhavedialsattheneck,chest,waist,andshouldersthatcanbeadjustedtoabody’sindividualmeasurements.Nonadjustableformsaretypicallyusedindesignschools.Theyhavetheadvantageofbeingsturdierthanadjustableforms,andtheyhaveseamsdownthefront,back,sides,andaroundthewaistthatdividethebodyandserveaslandmarkswhendesigningoradjustingyourownpatterns.

Nodressformcaneverreallyaccuratelyreflectanindividualbody.Evendressformsthatarecustommadefromindividualcastsdon’tquitecaptureabody,becausebodiesmoveandtheirdimensionschangejustfrombreathing.Moreover,becauseeveryonehasadifferentbody,astandarddressformthatismadetoreflectan“average”bodywillmostoftennotduplicateanindividualfigureexactly.However,dressformscanstillgetyouclosertotheperfectfit.

Thereareveryexpensiveformsthataremadetoaperson’sexactmeasurementsoryoucanmakeaninexpensivedressformfromducttapeorbrownpapertapethatiswrappedaroundthebody.TherearemanyDIYtutorialsontheWeb,thoughif,likeme,theideaofbeingboundfairlytightlyinducttapemakesyouabitnervous,youcanbuyalessexpensiveformslightlysmallerthanyourpersonaldimensionsandpaditouttothecorrectmeasurements.Usingpadding,youcanmuchmoreaccuratelycaptureyourownbody’sexactdimensionsthanwithanadjustableform.Anadjustableformallowsyoutoalteronlyfivepartsofthebody,whereaspaddingre-createseverycurveandbumpofyourindividualfigure.Acustomformbecomesextremelyhelpfulwhenmakingadjustmentsandalterationstoapattern.

Fromlefttoright:astore-displaydressform,anadjustableform,andanonadjustableform

Whiletherearecompaniesthatsellpaddingsystemstofilloutyourform,youcandothisyourselfprettyeasilyandinexpensivelyusingthinquiltbattingandastretchybody-shapingslipundergarment.Iusedastretchytubedress,whichworksifyouonlyneedtopadbelowtheshoulders.Ifyouneedtopadtheupperbackorshoulders,youwillneedagarmentthatcoverstheseareasaswell.If

youonlyneedtopadthebust,youcanjustuseabra.

DressformslightlysmallerthanyourmeasurementsThinquiltbattingStretchybody-shapingsliporbra

1.Takeyourmeasurementsaccordingtothesedirections.Obviouslyit’sreallyimportanttotakethemaccuratelyinordertore-createyourfigureontheform.Takethedressform’smeasurementsandcompare.Notewhereyouwillneedtoaddpaddingtoreflectyourownbodyanditscurvesandbumps.Youcanpadtheformtoyourmeasurements,butitmaynotreflectyourbodyaccuratelyifthepaddingisnotintherightplace.

2.Padtheformwherenecessarywithlongrectanglesofbattingandpin.Forthebust,bottom,andhips,cutcirclesthatgraduatefromlargertosmallertore-createthecurveoftheseareas(seephoto).Paduntilthemeasurementsarecorrectandtheformlookslikeyourfigure.Themainthingtokeepinmindwhenpaddingistoproceedinthinlayerstoavoidbulkiness.

3.Carefullypullthebodyshaperovertheform.

USINGTHEPATTERNS

CHOOSINGAPATTERNSIZEThepatternsattheendofthebookrunfromsize1through12.Becausesizingisnotconsistentintheclothingmanufacturingindustry,donotchooseasizebasedonwhatyouusuallywear.Instead,takeyourmeasurementsasfollows,writethemdown,andpickyoursizeaccordingtotheSizeChart.

Weartheundergarmentsyouwouldwearwithadresswhenyoutakethesemeasurements.Useasofttapemeasure.Makesurethetapemeasureislevelallthewayaroundanddon’tpullittootight.Takingthefollowingmeasurementsaccuratelyisimportanttoachievingagoodfitthefirsttime.

Bust.Measurethefullestpartofyourbustallthewayaroundyourback.

Waist.Measureallthewayaroundyourwaistatthesmallestpart.

Hipsorthighs.Measurearoundthefullestpartofyourhips,makingsurethetapemeasurepassesoverthefullestpartofyourbackside.Ifyourthighsarebiggerthanyourhips,measureyourthighsatthefullestpartandusethatinsteadofyourhipmeasurement.

CUTTINGANDKEEPINGThepatternsareoverlappedonthepatternsheets.Youmaywanttotracethepatternyouwanttouseinordernottocutthroughtheotherpatterns.Youcantraceoverthemusinglargesheetsoftracingpaper;tapesheetsoftracingpapertogether

overthemusinglargesheetsoftracingpaper;tapesheetsoftracingpapertogetherforthelargerpatterns.Oryoucanuseaplasticsee-throughshowercurtainandaveryfineSharpiemarkertotracethem.Ifyouplantouseapatternoverandoveragain,Irecommendtracingaroundthecutpatternontooaktagorposterboardsoyouhaveasturdy,hardcopy.

DRESSMAKINGTERMSUSEDINTHEBOOKTheseareafewdescriptionsandinstructionsusedinalmosteveryprojectinthebookormarkedonthepatternsthemselves.It’shelpfultobecomefamiliarwiththembeforeyoubegin.

PATTERNMARKINGSSize.Thisisindicatedbycolorontheenclosedpatterns:sizes1to4areblack,5to8aregray,and9to12arelightgray.ChecktheSizeChartbelowtofindyoursize.

Seamallowances.Mostpatternsincludedinthebookusea⅝"(1.5cm)seamallowance.Thisallowanceisincludedonthepatternandisnotmarked—thatis,thestitchinglinewillbe⅝"(1.5cm)infromthecutfabricedges.Itisimportanttokeepthisallowanceinmindwhenmakingadjustmentstothepatterns.

Stitchingline.Thelineyouwillactuallysewisnotmarkedonthepatterns.Forthecollarandcollarbandpatterns,itislocated⅜"(1cm)infromtheedgeofthepattern;formostotherpatterns,itislocated⅝"(1.5cm)infromtheedgeofthepattern.Someofthepatternmodificationsinthebookwillrequirethatyoudrawinthisline.

Grainline.Thetwo-headedarrowsindicatethedirectioninwhichtolayapatternonthefabric.Anarrowthatrunsupanddownmeansthatyoulaythepatternonthefabricsothatitalignswiththelengthwisegrain.Anarrowthatrunsdiagonallyacrossthepatternmeansyoulaythepatternonthebias.

SIZE BUST WAIST HIP

1 32"(81cm) 24"(61cm) 34"(86cm)

2 33"(84cm) 25"(63.5cm) 35"(89cm)

3 34"(86cm) 26"(66cm) 36"(91cm)

4 35"(89cm) 27"(68.5cm) 37"(94cm)

5 36½"(92.5cm) 28½"(72cm) 38½"(98cm)

6 38½"(98cm) 30½"(77.5cm) 40½"(103cm)

7 40½"(103cm) 32½"(82.5cm) 42½"(108cm)

8 42½"(108cm) 34½"(87.5cm) 44½"(113cm)

9 44½"(113cm) 36"½"(92.5cm) 46½"(118cm)

10 46½"(118cm) 38½"(98cm) 48½"(123cm)

11 48½"(123cm) 40½"(103cm) 50½"(128.5cm)

12 50½"(128.5cm) 42½"(108cm) 52½"(133.5cm)

noteForthepatternsinthisbookthatalignatthewaistdartsandsideseams,it’sbesttopickthesizeforboththe

bodiceandskirtthat’sclosesttoyourwaistmeasurement.Makealterationstothepattern,ifnecessary,to

accommodateyourbustandhipmeasurements.

Centerfront,centerback.Thisindicatesthatthepatterniscutinhalf.Usuallyyouwillalignthecenterfrontorcenterbackofthepatternonthefoldoffabricinordertocutawholepiece.

Sidefront,sideback.Thepatternisawholepieceandisnotcutonthefabricfold.

Darts.Thesetriangle-shapedwedgesneedtobetransferredtothefabricsothatyouknowpreciselyweartosewthedart.Onewaytotransferthedartmarkingstothefabricwithtailor’schalkoradressmaker’spencilistocutthedartoutfromthepatternandtracearounditontothefabric.Makesureyousavethecut-outdartsoyoucanuseittotracethebottomedgeofthedart(thepartthatextendsbeyondtheseamline).Whereastherestofthepatternyou’retracingisthecuttingline,you’retracingtheactualstitchinglineofthedart.Soremembernottocutoutthedartfromyourfabric.

Notches.Onthepatternsinthisbook,notchesaretheT-shapedmarkingsalongthe

seamlines.Notcheslocatednearacorner,suchastheshoulderofthebasicbodice,markthe⅝"(1.5cm)seamallowance.Notcheslocatedsomewhereinthemiddleofaseam,asonthecurvedpartofthesidefrontandcenterfrontstraplessbodicepatterns,showwheretolineupthepatternpiecesthatwillbesewntogether.Transfernotchestothefabricusingtailor’schalkoradressmaker’spencil.YoucanalsomakesmallV-shapedcutsinthefabricseamallowancetoindicatethesenotches.Makesurenottocutthroughtheseamallowance.

Counterclockwisefromtop:notchesontheshoulder,sidefront,andcenterfront

SEWING-SPECIFICINSTRUCTIONS

Presstheseamsopen.Opentheseamallowancesandpressthemflatwithaniron.Pressingseamsopenwithanironafteryousewthemwillmaketheinsideofyourgarmentneaterandlessbulky.Pressingtheseamsopenisespeciallyimportantwhenyou’resewingonepartofagarmenttoanother.Forexample,whensewingthebodicetotheskirt,therewillbealotlessbulkinthesideseamsatthewaistiftheseamshavebeenpressedopen.Otherwise,youcouldendupwithfourseamallowancesallsewnonthesamesideofaseam,causingtoomuchbulk.

Rightside,wrongside.Rightsidereferstothesideofthefashionfabricthatshowswhenthedressisworn;onaliningitreferstothesideofthefabricyouseewhenyoulookinsidethedress.Wrongsideistheothersideofthefabric.

Withrightsidestogether.Sewthefabricwiththerightsidesfacingeachother.

Stitchclosetothefoldededge.Thisreferstosewinganedgethathasbeenfoldedundertothewrongside.Oftenitrelatestoahemwhereyouwouldsewabout⅛"(3mm)orlessfromthefolded-underedge(notthebottomhemedge).Seethisimageforanexample.

Baste.Sewlongstitchesbyhandormachine.Bastingsecuresthefabricbeforepermanentstitchesaremade.Thestitchesareoften,thoughnotalways,laterremoved.

Gather.Sew2or3linesofbastingstitchesbyhandormachineinsidetheseamallowance(closertotherawedge)withoutbackstitching.Gentlygather,orpull,thefabricalongthethread.Thebenefitofsewingmultiplelinesofstitchesisthatifonethreadbreaksyouhaveoneortwomoretoworkwith.

Topstitch.Sewontherightsideofthefabric.Thislineofstitchingwillshowontheoutsideofthegarment.

ASSEMBLINGADRESSEachbodicepatternincludedcanbepairedwithanyoftheskirtpatterns,plusmanyofthenecklines,sleeves,andpattern-designoptionsforhundredsofpossibledresscombinations.Thisisagoodthingintermsofthehugenumberofoptionsitprovides.But,it’sobviouslynotpossibletoincludespecificinstructionsforeachandeveryoneofthesepossibledesigns.

Eachdressincludesinstructionsforthespecificpatternpiecesusedtocreatethesample,withillustratedstepsforeachoftheseparatebodiceandskirtpatterns.You’llfindcross-referencedinstructionsforattachingtheskirttothebodice,insertingazipper,usingthenecklinetemplates,andaddingsleeves.Whenstartingaproject,it’sbesttoreviewtheDressmakingChecklistbelowtoensurethatyou’refollowingthenecessarystepsforyouruniquedress.

DRESSMAKINGCHECKLIST1.PlanYourDress

□Choosethebodiceandskirtstylesyou’llusetocreateyourdress.

□Ifyouwillbemodifyingthenecklineofyourplanneddress,pickoneofthe

necklinetemplates.

□Chooseacollarpattern(optional).

□Selectasleevepattern(optional).

□Considermodifyingthelengthoftheskirtpatternyouplantouse.

□Determinewhetheryouwillbeliningthedressorfacingit(SeeFacingVersusLiningformoreinformation).

□Optforabackzipperorsidezipper.Note:Ifyouusethebasicbodiceorprincessbodiceanddonotmodifythenecklinewithoneofthenecklinetemplatestomakeitbigger,thenyouwillneedtomakethebodice(andtheskirt)withabackzipper.Youwon’tbeabletogetyourheadthroughtheunmodifiednecklineopeningifyouuseasidezipper.

2.PreparethePatterns

□Takeyourmeasurementsaccordingtotheinstructions,writethemdown,andusethemtopicktheappropriatepatternsize.

□Traceandcutyourpatternpiecesfromthepatternsheetsfoundhere.

□Makealterationstothepatterntoimprovethefit,ifneeded(Chapter6).

□Useanecklinetemplatetomodifythepattern,ifdesired.

□Modifythelengthoftheskirtpattern,ifdesired.

□Adda⅝"(1.5cm)seamallowancetothecenterbackofthepattern(ifitdoesn’talreadyhaveabackseamallowance,aswiththebiasskirtandstraightskirts)ifyoupreferabackzipperinsteadofasidezipper.Youwillhavetodothisifyouchoosethebasicorprincessbodicesasyouwillnotbeabletogetyourheadthroughthenecklinewithoutabackzipperunlessyoumodifythenecklinetomakeitbigger.

3.PreparetheFacingorLining

□Ifyouarefacingthedressinsteadofliningit,usethebodicepatterntomakethepatternforthefacing.

□Ifyouareliningthedress,seeLinings.Liningthedressusuallyrequiresthatthedressbesewntogetherinadifferentorderthanifyouarefacingthedress.

4.MaketheMuslin

□Sewamuslin,usingthepreparedpatternpiecesandtheappropriatefabric-cuttinglayouts.

□Makealterationstothepattern(Chapter6)asneededbasedonthefitofthemuslin.Tobesafe,makeanothermuslin.

5.PreparetheFabric

□Launder,dry,andtruethefabricsforthefinishedgarment.

6.MaketheDress

□Cutyourpreparedfashionfabric,facingfabric,andinterfacingorliningfabricbasedonthecuttinglayoutsforyourselectedpatternpieces.SeeUsingthePatternsforhowtousethepatterns.Transfermarkingsfordartsandnotchesfromthepatternusingadressmaker’spencilortailor’schalk.

□Assembleandsewyourchosenbodicefromthefashionfabric.Ifusingacollar,sewitonnow.Lineorfacethebodiceandaddsleeves,ifdesired.Gradetheseamallowances,clipallcurves,finishseamallowances,ifdesired,andpress.

□Assembleandsewyourskirtfromthefashionfabric,liningitifdesired.Pressandfinishtheseamallowances,ifdesired.

□Sewtheskirttothebodice.

□Insertthezipperinthedress.

ADVICEFORBEGINNERSIfyouhaven’tsewnalotofgarments,it’sbesttostartwithsomethingsimple.Trythestraplessorbasicbodicewiththestraightskirtforyourfirstdress.Followthedirectionsastheyarewrittenwithoutaddinganyofthesleeveornecklineoptions.Onceyougetafeelfortheflowofthegarment-assemblyprocess,youcantrychangingtheneckline,addingsleeves,ormakingthedresswithafulllining.

WHENDESIGNINGADRESS,IOFTENBEGINWITHTHEBODICE.Thischaptergivesinstructionsandillustrationsforhowtomakethebasicbodice,straplessbodice,halterbodice,gatheredhalterbodice,cowlneckbodice,princessbodice,andthemock-wrapbodice.Thesepatternscanallbefoundintheenvelopeatthebackofthebook.

Youwillalsofindinstructionsandillustrationsforsomesimplepattern-designmethodsinthischapterthatyoucanusetomakevariationsofmanyofthebodices.Thesemethodsopenupsomanymoredesignpossibilitiesandareeasytodo.Ifyoucandrawalineandcutpaper,thenyouhavetheskillsneededtochangethedesignofthepatterns.

Afteryou’vemadeyourbodice,makeyourchosenskirtfromChapter5andattachittothebodiceaccordingtotheinstructionsonthispage.Finally,insertthezipperaccordingtotheinstructionsonthispage.SeeChapter6forpatternalterationsthatwillhelpyouachieveabetterbodicefit.

THEBASICBODICE

Youwillfindcountlessdesignpossibilitieswiththisclassicfittedbodice.Dependingonthefabricandskirtstyleyouchoose,itisversatileenoughto

transitionfromdaytonight.Coverbarearmswithacardiganintheoffice,thenswitchoutyourflatsforheelsonyourwayout.Theseinstructionsarefor

sewingabasicbodicewithabackzipper,facings,andnosleeves.Thesampleprojectpairsthisbodicewiththestraightskirt.

FrontBasicBodice(sheet1front)

FrontBasicBodice(sheet1front)BackBasicBodice(sheet1front)

FASHIONFABRICANDLININGFABRIC

45"(114cm)fabric:•Sizes1to5:¾yard(68.5cm)•Sizes6to12:1¼yard(1.1m)60"(152.5cm)fabric:•Sizes1to12:¾yard(68.5cm)

TOFACEBODICEINSTEADOFLINING,ADD

½yard(45.5cm)of45"(114cm)or60"(152.5cm)facingfabric1yard(0.9m)of20"(51cm)interfacing

Invisiblezipper

notes•Usea⅝"(1.5cm)seamallowanceforallsewing.•Ifyoudecidetoaddsleeves,thenskipthearmholefacings.•Ifyouwillbeliningthebodice,skipthenecklineandarmholefacings.•Thelengthofthezippershouldbethelengthofthebodice’scenter-backseamorsideseam(dependingonwhereyouplantoinsertit)plus8"(20.5cm).

Thebasicbodicewillworkwithawidevarietyoffabricsfromthin,lightweight,anddrapeytoheavierandstiffer.Italldependsonthelookyou’reafter.Seethispageformoreaboutfabrics.

1.TraceandcutouttheFrontandBackBasicBodicepatternsfromsheet1.Ifyouwillnotbealteringthenecklinetomakeitlargerusingthescoop,deepV-,orhighV-necklinetemplates(Chapter3),thenyouwillneedtoadda⅝"(1.5cm)seamallowanceforazippertothebackbodicepattern.Ifyoudouseatemplateoralter

thepatternyourselftomaketheneckopeningbigger,thenyoucanaddtheseamallowancetothebackbodicepatternforabackzip.Orusethepatternasisandinsertasidezipper,cuttingthebackbodicepatternwiththecenterbackonthefold.

2.Tracethearmholeandnecklineofthefrontandbackpatternstomakethepatternforthebodicefacings.Tracetowithin1⁄16"–⅛"(1mm–3mm)oftheedge.Thiswillmakethefacingsslightlysmallerthanthebodice,whichwillensurethatthefacingrollstotheinsideofgarmentanddoesn’tpeekout.Seehereformoreaboutfacings.

3.Cutthefashionfabric,facingfabric,andinterfacingusingthepatternsaccordingtotheappropriatecuttinglayoutforyourfabricwidthandsize.Sewthedartsonthefrontandbackbodice.Pressthewaistdartstowardthecenterandthebustdartsdownward.

4.Withrightsidestogether,sewthefrontbodicetothebackbodiceattheshouldersandsideseams.Note:Ifyouareusingasidezipper,leaveonesideseamopen.Presstheseamsopen.

5.Applyinterfacingtothewrongsideofthefacingpiecesaccordingtothemanufacturer’sinstructions(seehereformoreaboutinterfacing).

6.Sewthearmholefacingswithrightsidestogetherattheshoulderandsideseams.(Remembertoskipthisstepifyouareaddingsleeves.)Note:Ifyouareusingasidezipper,leavethesideseamofoneofthefacingsopen.Pressalltheseamsopen.

Sewthefrontneckfacingtothebackneckfacingwithrightsidestogetherattheshoulder.Presstheseamsopen.

7.Withrightsidestogether,sewtheneckandarmholefacingstothebodice.

Gradeallseamallowances,clipthecurves,andunderstitchthearmholeandnecklineseamallowancestothefacing.Finishtheseamallowances,ifdesired.Pressthefacingstotheinsideofthebodice.

8.Seehereforhowtoattachsleeves,ifdesired.Seehereforhowtoattachtheskirttothebodice.

THEONE-SHOULDERVARIATIONS

Whowouldeverguessthatthisskin-baringtopevolvedfromthebasicbodice?Perfectforaneveningaffair,Ithinkthiswouldmakeabeautifulbridesmaid’sdressatadaytimewedding.It’spairedherewiththegatheredA-lineskirtthathitsattheknee,butconsidertryingafloor-lengthskirt.Imadeaone-shoulder

bodicewithgathersatthefrontshoulder,andalsoincludeanoptionforasimplerdesignordartsshiftedtotheshoulderwithoutgathers.

notes•Reviewbasicdartmanipulationtechniquesbeforebeginningthisproject.Ifyouarefamiliarwithmovingdartsaroundthebodiceorturningdartsintogathers,tucks,or

fullness,thevariationsdescribedhereshouldbeprettystraightforward.•Fortheone-shouldervariations,usethesameyardageamountsforyourchosenpatternsizeandfabricwidthasthebasicbodice.

•Insteadofcuttingoutthepatternsonthefoldoffabric,cutthemwithfabriclaidoutflatinasinglelayer.

1.Forasimpleone-shoulderpattern:TraceandcuttheBackBasicBodicepatternfromsheet1.Tracethepatternagaintomakeacompletebackbodicepattern.Drawalinefromoneshouldertotheunderarmseamontheotherside.Cutoutthenewpattern.

RepeattheprocedurewiththeFrontBasicBodicepatternfromsheet1.Cutonefromtheliningfabricandonefromthefashionfabricusingthenewpatternsforboththefrontandback.

Thefinishedfrontone-shouldervariationwithdartsshiftedtotheshoulder

2.Foraone-shoulderpatternwiththedartsshiftedtotheshoulder:TraceandcutouttheFrontBasicBodicepattern.Raisethebustpointsandshiftthebustdarttothewaist.Tracethepatternagain,turningitoverandplacingthetwocenter-frontedgestogethertomakeacompletefrontpatternandcreatetheone-shoulderpatternbydrawingalinefromoneunderarmseamtotheoppositeshoulderandcuttingalongtheline.

Drawastraightlinefromeachofthebustdarttipstotheshoulder.Slashthelines,shiftthedartstotheshoulder,andclosethewaistdarts.Youcanshortenthedartssothattheyextendtoabout½"(13mm)fromthebustpoint,ifdesired(seehereformoreaboutraisingandloweringdarts).Cutonefromyourfashionfabricandonefromyourliningfabric.Followstep1tomakethepatternfortheone-shoulderbackbodice.

Thefinishedbackone-shouldervariation

3.Foraone-shoulderbodicewithgathersatthefrontshoulder:Followstep2butdraw3linesfromthetipofeachbustpoint.Slashthelines,closethewaistdarts,andshiftthedartstotheshoulder,spreadingthepiecesevenly.

Tracethenewshapetocompletethepattern.Cutonefromyourfashionfabricusingthenewpattern.Tomakethepatternsforthefrontandbackliningpiecesandthebackbodicepiece,followstep1.

a.Sewalineofbastingstitchesalongthetopedgeofthefrontfashion-fabricbodicepiece.

Gathertothesamesizeasthebackbodiceshoulderseamandsewthebackfashion-fabricbodicedarts.Pressthedartstowardthecenter.

b.Sewthefrontbodiceliningdarts.Pressbustdartsdownwardandwaistdartstowardthecenter.

Sewthebackbodiceliningdarts.Pressdartstowardthecenter.

c.Withrightsidestogether,sewthefrontandbackliningpiecestogetherattheshoulderonly.Presstheseamopen.

d.Withrightsidestogether,sewthefrontandbackfashion-fabricpiecestogetherattheshoulderonly.Presstheseamopen.

e.Openouttheliningbodiceandfashion-fabricbodice.Withrightsidestogether,sewalongthearmholesandneckline.Don’tsewthesideseams.Gradetheseamsandclipthecurves.

f.Turnthebodicerightsideoutthroughtheshoulderandarrangeitinthepositionitwillbeworn.

g.Foldthefrontandbackfashionfabricup.Theshoulderofthebodicewillbesandwichedinbetween.Sewtheliningatthesideseamswithrightsidestogether.Sewthefashionfabricatthesideseamswithrightsidestogether,makingsurenottocatchanyotherpartofthebodiceinthestitches.

THESIMPLEYOKEVARIATION

Let’sbehonest:Whodoesn’tlovetowearblack?Thetricktoavoidlookingtoosevereisallinthesubtledetails.Inthisyouthfulstyle,thesheerlaceyoke

fabricmakesitmoreplayfulandsweet,especiallywhenpairedwithapleatedskirtontheshorterside.Theeffectissimilartoastraplessdress,butwithall

thepracticalityofabasicbodice.

Adecorativeyokecancreateaverydistinctivestylestatementwhenmadewithacontrastingfabric,especiallywhenthefabriccontrastsnotonlyincolorbutinsheerness,likethedressshown.Andit’ssupereasytodo.Drawacurvedlineacrossthepatternfromthesideseamtothecenterfront.Thelineshouldstart⅝"(1.5cm)underthearmhole,thencurveupwardandovertothecenterfront.Youcanusethe

underthearmhole,thencurveupwardandovertothecenterfront.YoucanusetheStraplessBodicepatternasaguidetodrawtheline,oryoucoulddrawalinefrom⅝"(1.5cm)underthearmholestraightacrosstothecenterfrontinstead,butthattechniqueisbestreservedforcolorblockingwithopaquefabrics.Otherwise,dependingonyourfigure,theyokecouldbeprettyrevealing.Becauseyouslashallthewaythroughthepatterncreatinganewseamline,youwillneedtoaddaseamallowancetoboththenewpatternpiecesalongtheedgesresultingfromtheslash:thebottomofthenewyokepatternpieceandthetopofthenewbodicepatternpiece.

Thebasicbodicecanbeeasilymodifiedinlotsofdifferentways.Movingdartsaroundthebodice,dividingdarts,andmakingdartsintotucksor

gathersisreallyeasyandallowsforsomanydesignpossibilities.Ifyoucancutapieceofpaper,youcandothis!Youcanmakethesechangestomostofthebodicepatternsinthebookbut,ifyou’reunfamiliarwiththetechniques,it’sbesttolearnthemfirstusingthebasicbodice.

First,alittlebitaboutdarts.Youprobablyalreadyknowintuitivelywhatdartsdo.Ifyou’veeverwornafittedgarmentwithdartsversusagarmentwithoutdarts,thenyouknowthatdartsshapethefabrictothecurvesofthebody.Theshapingofthesideseamsofaskirtandtheangledsidesofabodicearealsodartsofasort,buttheyaredartshiddeninaseam.Princessseamsareanotherexampleofhiddendarts.Themainthingtorememberaboutdartsforthefollowingbodicepatternvariationsisthatadartmustbeginataseamandthepointytipofthedartmustbepositionedatthehighestpointofthebustorbustpoint(basicallyatthenipple).

Thebasicbodicewithdartsatthebustandthewaist

RAISINGDARTSForaestheticreasons,thetipofthedartsonabodicepatternaretypicallylowered½"(13mm)ormorefromtheactualhighestpointofthebust.Tomakechangestothedartswemustfirstraisethedartssothatthetipofthedartsitsattheactualhighestpointofthebustcurve.

1.Tofindtheraisedbustpoint(i.e.,theactualhighpointofthebust)onapatternwithabustandwaistdart,drawalinethroughthecenterofeachdartsothatthetwolinesintersectandmarkthispoint.Redrawthedartlegsofbothdartssothattheyextendtothehigherpoint.

2.Whenyou’redonemakingchangestothepattern,lowerthedartstotheiroriginalposition.

noteTofindtheraisedbustpointonapatternwithonlyonedart,suchasawaistdart,youcanuseatwo-

dartpatternthatyou’vealreadylocatedtheraisedbustpointonasdiscussedabove.Justraiseitthesame

amountasitwasraisedonthetwo-dartpattern.

Or,youcanmeasuredownfromtheintersectionofyourneckandshouldertoyourbustpoint.You

shouldweartheundergarmentsyouplantowearwithafittedbodicewhenyoutakethismeasurement.

Markthispointonthepatternbutbesurenottoincludetheseamallowancewhenmeasuringdownfrom

theneck/shoulderintersectiononthepattern.Startingfromthebottomofthedartlegs(thewidestpartof

thedart),extendthedartstothebustpoint.

SHIFTINGDARTS

1.Tochangethebasicbodicepatternfromatwo-dartpatterntoaonewaist-dartpattern,startbytracingtheFrontBasicBodicepatternfromsheet1,andthenraisethedarts.Cutoutthenewdartsbutleaveatinyhingeofpaperatthebustpoint.

2.Rotatethehingedpieceofthepatternupwarduntilthesidebustdartis

closed,andtapeit.

3.Thewaistdartwillbebigger,buttheshapeofthebodicewillbeexactlythesamewhensewn.Thisisnotnecessarilyintuitive,buttoproveit,traceacopyoftheoriginalunmodifiedbodicepattern,cutoutthedarts,andthentapethemtogetherastheywouldbewhentheyaresewn.Dothesamethingwiththenewpatternandcomparethem.You’llseethatwhenyousuperimposeoneontheother,theshapeisthesame.Thespacethatthedartsoccupywithinthebodicehasshiftedaround,buttheamountofspacetakenupbythedartshasn’tactuallychanged.

4.Tofinishthepattern,lowerthebustpointthesameamountyouraiseditandredrawthedartlegstothispoint.

Remembertheseamallowances,anddon’tmakethenewdarttooclosetoaseamallowance.Forexample,

whenshiftingthedarttothesideseam,makethenewdartmorethan⅝"(1.5cm)—maybe1⅝"(4cm)to

besure—fromthebottomofthearmholecurve.Ifyouweretomakethedart¼"(6mm)fromthebottom

ofthearmholecurve,thesewndartwouldendupinthearmholecurveseamallowance,makingfora

messy,bulkyseamallowancethatwouldbedifficulttosewasleevetoorfinishproperly.Youcanavoid

confusionbymarkingandcuttingoffthe⅝"(1.5cm)seamallowancebeforeyoubeginmodifyingthe

pattern.Remembertoadditbackontothefinishedpattern.

SHIFTINGDARTSTOTHEARMHOLES

1.Beginwiththesinglewaist-dartpatternwithraiseddarts.

2.Drawastraightlinefromthetipofthedarttothearmhole.Slashalongthisline,leavingahinge.

3.Rotatethehingedpiecedownwarduntilthewaistdartisclosed.Noticethatthewaistlinenowhasaslightangleatthecloseddart.

4.Tracethenewpatternandsmoothoutthewaistlineanglewithasubtlecurve.

SHIFTINGDARTSTOTHESIDESEAMS

1.Beginwiththesinglewaist-dartpatternanddrawalinefromthetipofthedarttothesideseamatleast⅝"(1.5cm)belowtheunderarm.

2.Slashthelineandrotatethedartdownwarduntilthewaistdartisclosed.

3.Tracethepattern,smoothingoutthewaistlineanglewithasubtlecurve.

Usethesameprocedureasshiftingdartstotheshoulder

Usethesameproceduretoshiftdartstotheneckline

SHIFTINGDARTSTOCENTERFRONT

Youcanevenshiftthedartstothecenterfront.Shiftingthedartstothecenterfrontrequiresthatthecenterfrontbelowthedartsbemadeintoaseam.Adda⅝"(1.5cm)seamallowancetotheseambelowthedartsto

seam.Adda⅝"(1.5cm)seamallowancetotheseambelowthedartstocompletethepattern.Thispatternpiecewouldbecutwiththeperpendicularedge(fromtheneckline)ofthecenterfrontpatternonthefoldoffabric.

CURVEDDARTS

Thenew,shifteddartcanevenbecurved!Usethesameprocedureasyouwouldastraightdart.

Actually,thedartcouldbeazigzagoranycrazyshape.Theshapeofthedartlegswillnotaffectthesizeofthenewdart,though,ofcourse,azigzag-shapeddartwouldnotbemuchfuntosew.

THEEMPIREWAISTVARIATION

Youcanalsousedartshiftingtochangethepatterninotherways.Forexample,whencreatingthepatternforanempirewaistbodice,youcanshiftthedartoutofthewaysothatyoucandrawalineacrossthebodicewithouthavingtocrosstheopendart.

1.Startwiththewaistdartpatternanddrawalinefromthedarttiptothearmhole,leavingahinge.Rotatethehingedpiecedownwardandclosethewaistdarttemporarily.

2.Measurefromyourwaisttounderyourbust.Measureandmarkthesamedistancefromthepattern’swaiststitchingline.Drawalineacrossthepatternatthispoint.

3.Slashthelineandrotatethehingedpieceupwardtoclosethearmholedart.

4.Addaseamallowancetothebottomofthepatternwhereyouslashedit.Usethesameprocesstomakethechangestothebackpattern.Theempire

waistbodicecaneasilybepairedwithagatheredskirt.Usetheraisedwaistmeasurementoftheempirebodicepatterntodeterminethewaistmeasurementofthegatheredskirt.

measurementofthegatheredskirt.

DIVIDINGADARTBETWEENTHEWAISTANDARMHOLE

1.Beginwiththepatternwiththesinglewaistdart.

2.Slashthepatterntothearmhole,leavingahinge.

3.Rotatethehingedpiecedownwardbutdon’tclosethewaistdartcompletely.

DIVIDINGADARTTHREEWAYS

1.Slashthepatterntothearmholeandshoulder,leavinghinges.

2.Rotatethehingedpiecesdownward,dividingthedartspaceequally.

3.Addmoreslashesformoredarts.

DIVIDINGADARTINTWOATTHENECKLINE

1.Draw2linesfromthetipofthedarttotheneckline.

2.Slash,leavingahinge,androtatedownwarduntilthewaistdartisclosed,

dividingthedartspaceatthenecklineevenly.

TURNINGDARTSINTOGATHERS

1.Startwiththebodicepatternwiththewaistdart.Slashfromthetipofthedarttotheshoulderandshiftthedarttotheshoulder,closingthewaistdart.Drawseverallinesfromthedartpointtothewaistline.Drawtheoutsidelinestomakethedartabout¼"(6mm)largerthantheoriginaldart.

2.Slashthelines,leavinghinges,andthenclosetheshoulderdart,spreadingthepiecesevenly.Tracethenewshapeandmarkwheretheoutsideslashlineswerewithdotstoindicatewheretogather.

UNFITTEDBLOUSECONVERSION

Followsteps1and2fromTurningDartstoGathersbutskipthegatheringmarks.Ifdesired,addsomelengthtothebottomofthepattern.Makethe

samechangestothewaistdartsofthebackbodicepatternandaddthesamelengthyoudidtothefrontbodicepattern.Thispatternhasthedartspacenecessarytoaccommodatecurves,butthedartspaceissimplyleftunsewn.

SEMIFITTEDBLOUSECONVERSION

Youcanalsodividetheunsewndartspace,shiftingalittleofittoasewndartmakingforasemifittedshirt.

1.Followstep1and2TurningDartsintoGathers.Then,onthefrontbodicepattern,slashalinetothesideseam(nottooclosetothearmholeseamallowance),leavingahinge.

2.Opentheside-seamdartalittle.AddlengthasfortheUnfittedBlouseifyouwon’tbegatheringit.Tracethenewpattern.Thenewpatterncanbegatheredatthewaistorleftungatheredliketheblouseinthephoto.

GATHEREDDARTSWITHAYOKE

1.Startwiththebodicepatternwiththesinglewaistdart.Alignthewaistlinesofthefrontandbackbodicepatternsanddrawalineacrossthetopatthelevelwhereyouwanttheyoketobe.

2.Slashthepatternsalongtheyokeline.Drawlinesfromthetipofthedarttotheyokeline.Slashthelines,leavinghinges.Closethewaistdartandspreadtheslashedpiecesforgathers.

3.Tracethenewpattern.Add⅝"(1.5cm)seamallowancestotheloweredge

oftheyokeandupperedgeofthebodicewhereitwasslashed.

ADDINGFULLNESSGATHEREDATTHEWAIST

1.Startwiththepatternwiththeungathereddart.Drawstraight,evenlyspacedparallellinesthroughthepattern.

2.Slashthepattern,leavinghingesalongtheneckline,shoulder,andarmhole.Spreadevenly.Themoreyouspreadthemorefullnesswillbecreated.Shiftthecenterfrontofthepatternhalfofthespreadbetweentheotherpieces.

3.Tracethenewpattern.Youcanmakethesamechangestothebackbodice,ifdesired,andgathertheentirewaistlinewhensewing.

ADDINGFULLNESSGATHEREDATTHENECKLINE

1.Startwiththepatternwiththeungathereddart.Drawstraight,evenlyspacedlinesradiatingfromthenecklineasshown.

2.Startingattheneckline,slashthepattern,leavingahingeatthebottomofeachslash.Spreadthepatternoutevenlyattheneckline.Shiftthecenterfrontpiecehalfthespreadoftheotherpieces.Tracethenewpattern.

3.Whensewingyoucangatherattheneckonlyandleavethewaist-dartspaceungathered,oryoucangatheritalso.

Forabodicewithwaistdartsthatisgatheredattheneck,youcanmakethesamechanges

tothepatternwiththedart

CREATINGDARTTUCKS

1.Startwiththebodicepatternwiththedartshiftedtothearmhole.

2.Draw3straightlinesperpendiculartothewaistbelowthedart.Connecteachlinetothetipofthedart.

3.Slashthelines,leavinghinges.Spreadtheslashedpiecesandclosethearmholedart.

4.Tracethenewpatternandmarkthedarttucklines(justthestraightpartoftheline,notthepartthatconnectstothedarttip).Thesearesewnalongthestraightlinesthesamewayasadart,onlynotasfar.

THESTRAPLESSBODICE

Aboldretrofloralandasexystraplesstopmeetafunskirt.ThisdresshasalittlebitofSoutherncharmandawholelotofsass.Allyouneedtofinishthis

lookisaglassoficedtea.Theseinstructionsareforthebodicewithaliningandsidezipper;alternatively,itcanbemadewithafacingandinterfacinganda

backzipper.Mydesignpairsthisbodicewiththegathereddirndlskirt.

CenterFrontStraplessBodice(sheet1back)SideFrontStraplessBodice

(sheet1back)CenterBackStraplessBodice(sheet1back)SideBackStraplessBodice(sheet1back)

FASHIONFABRICANDLININGFABRIC

45"(114cm)fabric:•Sizes1to3:½yard(45.5cm)•Sizes4to12:¾yard(68.5cm)60"(152.5cm)fabric:•Sizes1to12:½yard(45.5cm)

TOFACEBODICEINSTEADOFLINING,ADD

¼yard(23cm)of45"(114cm)or60"(152.5cm)facingfabric¾yard(68.5cm)of20"(51cm)interfacing

2yards(1.8m)ofboninginvisiblezipper

notes•Usea⅝"(1.5cm)seamallowanceforallsewing.•Ifyoumakethiswithabackzipper,youwillneedtoadda⅝"(1.5cm)seamallowancetothecenterbackpatternpieceandcut2centerbackpiecesinsteadof1onthefold.

•Thelengthofthezippershouldbethelengthofthebodicecenter-backseamorsideseam(dependingonwhereyouplantoinsertit)plus8"(20.5cm).

Thestraplessbodicewillworkwithawidevarietyoffabricsfromthin,lightweight,anddrapeytoheavierandstiffer.Thelighterthefabric,themorethestraplessbodicecanbenefitfromalining(asopposedtoafacing)inordertogiveitstructure.

1.Usingthetracedstraplessbodicepatternsonsheet2,cutoutthefashionfabricandliningaccordingtotheappropriatecuttinglayoutforyourfabricwidthandsize.

2.Sewthesidebackpiecestothecenterbackpiece.

Repeatwiththefrontpieces(ifyou’dliketoaddstraps,seehere)andthefrontandbackliningpieces.Presstheseamsopen.

3.Withrightsidestogether,sewthefashion-fabricbackbodicetothefrontbodicealongonesideseam.Presstheseamopen.Repeatwiththelining.

4.Addboningtotheseams,ifdesired.

5.Withrightsidestogether,sewtheliningtothefashionfabricalongthetopedge.Gradeandfinishtheseamallowances,ifdesired.Turnthebodicerightsideoutandpress.

6.SeeAttachingtheSkirtforhowtoattachtheskirttothebodice.

THEHALTERBODICE

Lightweightcottonwasmadeforthedogdaysofsummer.Ilovethisblue-and-whiteIndianblockprintthatgivesthisdressaneasy-going,beachyvibe.When

youwanttoletyourhairdown,nothingsays“freespirit”likeahalterstyle.Theseinstructionsareforthehalterdresswithaliningandasidezipper,but

youcanmakeitwithabackzipperand/orafacinginstead.It’spairedwiththepleatedskirtinthephotograph.

FrontHalterBodice(sheet1front)

FrontHalterBodice(sheet1front)CenterBackStraplessBodice(sheet1back)SideBackStraplessBodice(sheet1back)

FASHIONFABRICANDLININGFABRIC

45"(114cm)fabric:•Sizes1to12:1yard(0.9m)60"(152.5cm)fabric•Sizes1to12:¾yard(68.5cm)

TOFACEBODICEINSTEADOFLINING,ADD

¾yard(68.5cm)of45"(114cm)fabricor½yard(45.5cm)of60"(152.5cm)facingfabric¾yard(68.5cm)of20"(51cm)interfacing,forthefronthalterbodice¾yard(68.5cm)of20"(51cm)interfacing,forthebackhalterbodice

invisiblezipper

Thehalterbodicewillworkwithawidevarietyoffabrics,fromthin,lightweight,anddrapeytoheavierandstiffer;itjustdependsonthelookyou’reafter.Seethispageformoreaboutfabrics.

notes•Usea⅝"(1.5cm)seamallowance.•Ifyouareusingabackzipperinsteadofasidezipper,youwillneedtoadda⅝"(1.5cm)seamallowancetothecenterbackpatternpieceandcut2insteadof1onthefold.

•Thelengthofthezippershouldbethelengthofthecenter-backbodiceseamorside

seam(dependingonwhereyouplantoinsertit)plus8"(20.5cm).

1.Usingtheappropriatecuttinglayoutforyourfabricwidthandsize,cutthefashionfabricandliningfabricusingthetracedhalterpatternfromsheet1frontandbothbackstraplessbodicepatternsfromsheet1back.Alsocuttwostraps2½"(6.5cm)widebythedesiredlength(theyneedtobelongenoughtotiearoundyourneck)fromboththefashionandliningfabric.

2.BeginbystaystitchingtheV-neckofthefashion-fabrichalter.Thiswillhelptopreventitfromstretchingoutandgaping.Withrightsidestogether,sewthefashion-fabricsidebackpiecestothecenterbackpiecetocompletethehalterback.Presstheseamsopen.

3.Sewthehalterdartsandpressthemtowardthecenter.

4.Withrightsidestogether,sewthestrapstothehalter.Presstheshortendsofthestrapstothewrongsideby⅝"(1.5cm).Presstheseamopen.

5.Withrightsidestogether,sewthehalterbacktothefrontalongonesideseam.Presstheseamopen.

6.Repeatsteps2through5withtheliningfabric.

7.Withrightsidestogether,sewtheliningtothefashionfabricalongthetopedge,includingthenecklineandthesidesofthestraps.Donotsewthesideseamsortheshortendsofthestraps.

8.Gradetheseamsandclipthecurves.CliptheseamallowancesatthepointoftheV-neckalmosttothestitchingline,butmakesurenottocutthroughthestitching.Finishtheseamallowances,ifdesired.

9.Useasafetypintoturnbothstrapsrightsideout,pullingtherestofthebodicewiththem.Pressthebodice.

10.SeeAttachingtheSkirtforhowtosewtheskirttothebodice.

THEGATHEREDDARTSANDYOKEVARIATION

MarilynMonroeworeitinwhitein1955.Reimaginedinblack,thisstyleisanodtothegoldenageofgreasersandall-Americangood.You’lldreamupnewwaystousethesamepatternwithafewsubtlealterationstothehalterbodice,addinggathereddartsandayokeatthewaist.It’spairedherewiththedirndl

skirt.

notes•UsethesameyardageamountsasfortheHalterBodicepattern.•Thecuttinglayoutwillalsobethesameasthehalterbodice.Theonlydifferenceis

thatthelowerpartofthefronthalterwillbecutasaseparatepiece.

Thefinishedhalterbodicewithgatheredbustdartsandayoke1.Raisethepointytipofthedartstraightupby½"(13mm)andredrawthedartlegstothenewbustpoint.Drawalinefromthetipof

thebustpointtothearmholecurve.Slashtheline,shiftthedarttothearmholecurve,andclosethe

waistdart.(SeePatternDesignSpotlight:DartModifications.)

2.Measurefromunderyourbustdirectlydowntoyourwaist.Tomaketheyoke,drawasmoothcurveacrossthemidriffofthepatternatapointabovethewaistlinethatislessthanthewaist-to-underbustmeasurementyoujusttook;remembertomeasurefromthestitchinglineonthepattern.Ifthelineistoohigh,theyokewillpassoverthecurveofyourbustandthebodicewon’tfitright.Makesurethatthelineisperpendiculartothecenterfrontforatleast¼"(6mm).

3.Cutthepatternalongtheyokeline.Tapetheyokepiecestogether.Drawseveralstraightlinesfromthetipofthedartdowntowheretheyokeseamlinewillbe.

4.Slashthelinesandclosethedartatthearmhole.Smoothouttheangleoftheyokewithacurve.Adda⅝"(1.5cm)seamallowancetothetopedgeoftheyoke.

5.Tracethenewpatternshapeandmarkthegatheringspacewithadotoneitherside.Adda⅝"(1.5cm)seamallowancetothebottomedgeofthebodice.

6.Usethemodifiedpatterntocutthefashion-fabrichalterbodiceandliningpieces.Gatherthedartsbetweenthedotsonboththefashionfabricandlining.

7.Withrightsidestogether,sewthefashion-fabricyoketothebodice.Repeatwiththeliningfabric.Usethebackbodicepatternforthebackofthehalter.Followthebasicsewingandassemblyinstructionsforthebasichalterbodicetofinish.

THEGATHEREDHALTERBODICE

Thegatheredhalteralsoworkswithashort,flirtycircleskirt,asintheFirstAnniversaryDress.Find

theinstructionsforthisskirtseehere.

Thisfloor-sweepingnumberevokesHalston’stimelesschicstyle,asepitomizedby’70siconsLaurenHutton,LizaMinnelli,andBiancaJagger.Bereadytoturnheadswhenyouarriveatyourformaleventinthisstunningstylepairedwithalongbiasskirt.Theseinstructionsareforalinedgatheredhalterbodicewitha

sidezipper.

FrontGatheredHalterBodice(sheet1back)CenterBackStraplessBodice(sheet1back)SideBackStraplessBodice(sheet1back)

FASHIONFABRICANDLININGFABRIC

¾yard(68.5cm)of45"(114cm)or60"(152.5cm)fabric,allsizes

invisiblezippersafetypin

notes•Usea⅝"(1.5cm)seamallowance.•Thelengthofthezippershouldbethelengthofthebodice’scenter-backseamorsideseam(dependingonwhereyouplantoinsertit)plus8"(20.5cm).

•Thecuttinglayoutasshownwillallowforafinished1"(2.5cm)strapthatiseither45"(114cm)or60"(152.5cm)long,dependingonyourfabric.

Thegatheredhalterbodicewillworkbestwiththin,lightweight,drapeyfabriclikesilk,satin,orcrepe.Seehereformoreaboutfabrics.

1.TraceandcutthepatternfortheFrontGatheredHalterBodicefromsheet1backandbothbackStraplessBodicepatternpiecesonsheet1back.Cutthefashionfabricandliningaccordingtothecuttinglayout.Cuttwo2¼"(5.8cm)widestripsfromthefashionfabriconly.

2.Sewthefrontbodicedartsonthefashionfabricandliningpieces.Pressthedartstowardthecenter.Onboththefashionfabricandliningpieces,makeamarkwithtailor’schalkoradressmaker’spencilonthewrongsideofthefabricwherethecenter-frontanglebegins.

3.Sewonesidebackstraplesspiecetothecenterbackpiece.Sewtheothersidebackstraplesspiecetothecenterbackpiece.

Repeatwiththeliningpieces.Pressalltheseamsopen.

4.Withrightsidestogether,sewthebackbodicepiecetoonefrontbodicepiecealongthesideseamofboththefashionfabricandlining.Presstheseamsopen.

5.Openthebodiceonboththefashionfabricandliningand,withrightsidestogether,sewthebodicefrontpiecestogetheralongthetopedge.Presstheseamopen.

6.Openthebodiceandliningand,withrightsidestogether,sewalongthecenterfrontbetweenthemarksyoumadeinstep2,alongthearmholecurve,andacrossthetopofthebackbodice.Cliptobutnotthroughthestitchingatthemarksonthecenterfront.Gradetheseamsandclipthecurves.

7.Turnthebodicerightsideout.Flipthebodiceoversothattherightsidesofthefashionfabricarefacingeachotherandtherightsideoftheliningisontheoutside.

8.Foldthelininguponbothsidessothatthetopportionofthebodiceissandwichedinbetween.Withrightsidestogether,sewtheliningtogetheralongtheunstitchedportionofthecenterfront,makingsurenottocatchanyotherpartofthebodiceinthestitches.Sewthefashionfabricrightsidestogetheralongthecenterfront.Presstheseamsopen.

9.Makeanecktiebycutting2stripsoffashionfabric2¼"(5.5cm)wideby45"

(114cm)/60"(152.5cm)long.Presstheshortendsofeachstriptothewrongsideby⅝"(1.5cm).Withrightsidestogether,sewalongeachlongedge.Turnrightsideoutwithasafetypinandpress.Topstitch(simplystitchontherightsideofthefabric)theshortendsclosed.Note:Youcantiethenecktiearoundyourneckorsewittothebackbodice.

10.SeeAttachingtheSkirtforhowtoattachtheskirttothebodice.

BLUESKIESDRESS(SHOWNWITHA¾-CIRCLESKIRT)

1.StartwiththeMock-WrapBodicepattern.Drawalinefromthenecklinetothearmholefortheupperyoke.Drawlinesfromthetipofthedarttotheupperyokeline.

2.Slashtheupperyokeline.Slashthelinestothedarttipbutleavehingesatthetip.Closethewaistdartandspreadtheslashedpiecesforgathers.Measurefromunderyourbusttoyourwaistandadd⅝"(1.5cm)tothismeasurement.Atalevelabovethewaistthatis1"(2.5cm)lessthanthismeasurement,drawalinefortheloweryokeacrossthebodicewiththedartclosed.Slashtheloweryokeline.

3.Tomaketheloweryokepattern,tracetheHalterBodicepattern(patternsheet1)andshiftthewaistdarttothearmhole.Withthewaistdartclosed,drawalineacrossthebodiceatthesamelevelyoudidonthemockwrap.

4.Slashtheline.Tapetheyokepiecestogether.RedrawtheMock-Wrappatternforgathersandaddseamallowancestotheedgesthatwereslashedtocompletethepattern.

Gatherfabricmoretowardthefront,withverylittlegatheringatthesides.

THECOWLNECKBODICE

Whenyouwanttolookdressedupbutnot,youknow,toodressedup,thissimplyelegantdressisatyourservice.Abeautifullydrapedcowlneckisflatteringonanyone,andit’seasiertocreatethanyoumightguess.These

instructionsareforthecowlbodicewithfacingsandasidezipper.It’spairedwiththesix-panelskirtinthephotograph.

Cowl(sheet3front),tracedandtapedtogethertomakeawholefrontpatternBackBasicBodice(sheet1front)

FASHIONFABRIC

45"(114cm)fabric:•Cowl,sizes1to12:1yard(0.9m)•Backbodice,sizes1to12:¾yard(68.5cm)60"(152.5cm)fabric:•Cowlandbackbodice,sizes1to8:1yard(0.9m)•Cowl,sizes9to12:1yard(0.9m)•Backbodice,sizes9to12:¾yard(68.5cm)

FACINGFABRIC

½yard(45.5cm)of45"(114cm)or60"(152.5cm)fabric¾yard(68.5cm)ofinterfacing,20"(51cm)wide

invisiblezipper

Thecowlbodiceiscutonthebiasandwillworkbestwithafabricthathasalotofdrapeandnotmuchstiffnessorbody.Seehereformoreaboutfabrics.

notes•Skipthearmholefacingsifyouwillbeaddingasleeve.•Usea⅝"(1.5cm)seamallowance.•Ifyoumakeitwithabackzipperinsteadofasidezipper,youwillneedtoadda⅝"(1.5cm)seamallowancetothecenterbackofthepatternandcut2insteadof1onthefold.

•Biasgarmentslikethefrontcowlarecutfromawholeasopposedtohalfpattern.Theyarenotcutonafold.Onthepatternsheet,thefrontcowlbodiceiscutinhalftosavespace.Youwillneedtotraceitandtapeittogethertomakeawholepattern.

•Thelengthofthezippershouldbethelengthofthebodicecenter-backseamorsideseam(dependingonwhereyouplantoinsertit)plus8"(20.5cm).

1.TraceandcuttheCowlpatternfromsheet3front.Traceagain,flipitover,aligncenterfronts,andtapetogethertomakeawholeFrontCowlBodicepattern.TraceandcuttheBackBasicBodicepatternfromsheet1.

2.MaketheextendedfacingpatternforthecowlnecklinebytracingthetopportionoftheCowlpatternasshownbelow.Cutoutthetracingandtapetheextendedfacingtothepatternasshown.

3.Makethebackandfrontarmholefacings(skipthisstepifyouareaddingasleeve)bytracingtheCowlpatternandBackBasicBodicepatternasshowntowithin1⁄16"–⅛"(1mm–3mm)ofthearmholecurve.Thiswillhelpthefacingrolltotheinsideofthefinishedgarment.(Seehereformoreaboutfacings.)Makethebacknecklinefacingbytracingthebacknecklineofthepatternasshownagain,makingsuretotracetowithin1⁄16"–⅛"(1mm–3mm)oftheneckline.

4.Cutthefrontcowlbodicefromthefashionfabricusingtheextendedpatterncreatedinstep2.Cutthebackbodicefromthefashionfabricaccordingtotheappropriatecuttinglayoutforyourfabricwidthandsize.Usethefacingpatternstocutthefacingfabricandtheinterfacingforthearmholesandbacknecklineaccordingtothecuttinglayout.

5.Interfacethewrongsidesofthearmholeandbackneckfacingpiecesaccording

tothemanufacturer’sinstructions.(SeeInterfacingformoreaboutinterfacing.)6.Sewthefrontdartsofthecowlandpressthemtowardthecenter.Sewthebackbodicedartsandpresstowardthecenter.

7.Withrightsidestogether,sewthebackneckfacingtothebackbodiceandpresstheseamopen.

8.Withrightsidestogether,sewthefrontcowlbodicetothebackbodiceattheshoulderandalongthefacingasshown.Sewonesideseam,leavingtheothersideopenforthezipper.Presstheseamopen.

9.Withrightsidestogether,sewthearmholefacingstogetherattheshoulder.Sewonepairatthesideseamaswell,makingsurethefacingswiththeopensideseamareonthesamesideastheopensideseamofthebodice.Presstheseamsopen.

10.Withrightsidestogether,sewthearmholefacingstothebodice.Gradetheseams,clipthecurves),understitch,andfinishtheseamallowances,ifdesired.Pressneckandarmholefacingstotheinside.

11.Seehereforhowtoattachsleeves,ifdesired.SeeAttachingtheSkirtforhowtoattachtheskirttothebodice.

THEMOCK-WRAPBODICE

Sometimesyoujustneedago-tooutfitwhenyouhaveerrandstorunbutstillwanttolooknice.Enterthecasualdaydress—yourweekendwardrobe’ssecretweapon.Thismockwrapstyleispractical,cool,andhelpsyoulookeffortlesslypulledtogether.Theseinstructionsareforthemock-wrapbodicewithfacings

andasidezipper.It’sshowninthephotographwiththeA-lineskirt.

MockWrap(sheet2back)BackBasicBodice(sheet1front)

FASHIONFABRICANDLININGFABRIC

45"(114cm)fabric:•Sizes1to6:1yard(0.9m)•Sizes7to12:1¼yard(1.1m)60"(152.5cm)fabric:•Size1to12:¾yard(68.5cm)

TOFACEBODICEINSTEADOFLINING,ADD

¾yard(68.5cm)of45"(114cm)or60"(152.5cm)facingfabric1yard(0.9m)of20"(51cm)interfacing

invisiblezipper

notes•Skipthearmholefacingsifyouwillbeaddingasleeve.•Usea⅝"(1.5cm)seamallowanceforallsewing.•Ifyoumakeitwithabackzipperinsteadofasidezipper,youwillneedtoadda⅝"(1.5cm)seamallowancetothecenterbackoftheBackBasicBodicepatternandcut2insteadof1onthefold.

•Thelengthofthezippershouldbethelengthofthebodicecenter-backseamorsideseam(dependingonwhereyouplantoinsertit)plus8"(20.5cm).

Themock-wrapbodicewillworkwithmanytypesoffabrics.Seehereformoreaboutfabrics.

1.TraceandcutthepatternfortheMock-WrapBodicefromsheet2back.TraceandcuttheBackBasicBodicepatternfromsheet1.Makethepatternforthefacingsbytracingthepatternsasshownalongthefrontandbackarmholesandnecklines(seehereformoreaboutfacings).Makesuretotracetowithin1⁄16"–⅛"(1mm–

3mm)oftheedgealongtheopenings,whichwillensurethatyourfinishedfacingrollstotheinsideofthegarmentinsteadofpeekingout.

2.CutthefashionfabricusingtheMock-WrappatternandBackBasicBodicepatternaccordingtotheappropriatecuttinglayoutforyourfabricwidthandsize.Cutthefacingfabricandinterfacingaccordingtothecuttinglayout.

3.Interfacethewrongsideofthefacingsaccordingtothemanufacturer’s

instructions.(Seehereformoreaboutinterfacing.)4.Sewthefrontdartsandthebackdarts.Pressalldartstowardthecenter.

5.Withrightsidestogether,sewthefrontmock-wrappiecestothebackbodiceattheshouldersandonesideseam.Presstheseamsopen.

6.Withrightsidestogether,sewthefrontneckfacingstothebackneckfacingattheshoulder.Withrightsidestogether,sewthearmholefacingstogetherattheshoulder.Sewonesetofarmholefacings(theonesthatwillfacetheseamwithoutthezipper)alsoatthesideseam.Pressallseamsopen.

7.Withrightsidestogether,sewthefacingstothenecklineandarmholes.

8.Gradetheseamallowances,clipthecurves,andunderstitchtheseamallowancestothefacings.Finishtheseamallowances,ifdesired.Pressthefacingstotheinsideofthebodice.

9.Arrangethebodicesothatthepointsoftheflapsextend1⅝"(4cm)pasteachbustdartatthewaist.Pinandsewtheflapstogetherinthisposition.

10.Seehereforhowtoattachsleeves,ifdesired.SeeAttachingtheSkirtforhowtoattachtheskirttothebodice.

THEPRINCESSBODICE

This“itgirl”dressdoesn’tjustlookcool;it’salsocomfortable,easytosew,andversatileenoughtowearnearlyanyplace.Ilovepontebecauseitwearslikea

knitbuthasenoughbodyfordesignswithabitmorestructure.Theseinstructionsarefortheprincessbodicewithfacingsandabackzipper.Itis

shownwiththehalf-circleskirtinthephotograph.

CenterFrontPrincessBodice(sheet2front)SideFrontPrincessBodice(sheet1front)CenterBackPrincessBodice(sheet2front)SideBackPrincessBodice(sheet3front)

FASHIONFABRICANDLININGFABRIC

45"(114cm)fabric:•Sizes1to12:1yard(0.9m)60"(152.5cm)fabric:•Sizes1to8:¾yard(68.5cm)•Sizes9to12:1yard(0.9m)

TOFACEBODICEINSTEADOFLINING,ADD

½yard(45.5cm)of45"(114cm)or60"(152.5cm)facingfabric1yard(0.9m)of20"(51cm)interfacing

invisiblezipper

notes•Skipthearmholefacingsifyouwillbeaddingasleeve.•Skipthearmholeandnecklinefacingsifyouwillbeliningthebodice.•Usea⅝"(1.5cm)seamallowanceforallsewing.•Thelengthofthezippershouldbethelengthofthebodicecenter-backseamorsideseam(dependingonwhereyouplantoinsertit)plus8"(20.5cm).

Theprincessbodicewillworkwithawidevarietyoffabricsfromthin,lightweight,anddrapeytoheavierandstiffer;itjustdependsonthelookyou’reafter.Seehereformoreaboutfabrics.

1.TraceandcuttheFrontandBackPrincessBodicepatternpiecesfromsheet2front.

2.Adda⅝"(1.5cm)seamallowanceforthezippertothecenterbackofthebackbodicepatternifyouwillnotbemodifyingthenecklinetomakeitbiggerwithoneofthenecklinetemplatesortheoff-the-shouldermodification.

3.Cutthefashionfabricaccordingtotheappropriatecuttinglayoutforyoursizeandfabricwidth.

4.Withrightsidestogether,sewthesidefrontpiecestothecenterfrontpiece.Presstheseamsopen.Repeatwiththebackpieces.

5.TracethearmholeandnecklineofthesewnFrontPrincessBodicetowithin1⁄16"–⅛"(1mm–3mm)oftheedgeoftheopeningstomakethepatternforthefrontfacings(seethispageformoreaboutfacings).Repeatwiththesewnbackbodiceto

makethefacingpatternsforthebackarmholeandneckline.

6.Cutthefacingfabricandinterfacingaccordingtotheappropriatecuttinglayoutforyoursizeandfabricwidth.Applyinterfacingtothewrongsideofthefacingsaccordingtothemanufacturer’sinstructions(seehereformoreaboutinterfacing).

7.Sewthefrontandbackarmholefacingswithrightsidestogetherattheshoulderandsideseams.Sewthefrontandbacknecklinefacingstogetherattheshoulder.Pressallfacingseamsopen.

8.Withrightsidestogether,sewthefrontandbackbodicetogetherattheshoulderandsideseams.

9.Withrightsidestogether,sewthearmholeandnecklinefacingstothebodice.Gradetheseams,clipthecurves,understitchthefacingtothebodiceseamallowance,andfinishtheseamallowances,ifdesired.Pressthefacingstotheinsideofthebodice.

10.seehereforhowtoattachsleeves,ifdesired.SeeAttachingtheSkirtforhowtoattachtheskirttothebodice.

THEOFF-THE-SHOULDERVARIATION

Inspiredbytheoh-so-flatteringshoulder-skimmingstylesofthe’50s,thisvariationoftheprincessbodiceisfeminineandflirty,withoutaruffleinsight.Pairwithadreamyfull-circleskirt,andyou’llfeellikeaclassicmoviestar.

notes•Ifyou’reusing60"(152.5cm)fabric,youcanusethesameyardageamountsandcuttinglayoutsasfortheprincessbodice.

•For45"(114cm)fabric,youwillneed1¼yards(1.1m)offabricforthisdesign.Useaone-foldfabriclayout.Cut1centerfrontand1centerbackonthefold.Cut2sidefrontpiecesand2sidebackpieces.

1.TracetheCenterFrontPrincessBodicepatternpiecefromsheet2front.Witharulerorstraightedge,extendthelineofthebustseam.Extendthelineoftheshoulderseamuntilitintersectswiththeextendedbustseamline.Drawasmoothcurvefromthecenterfrontnecktotheshoulderpoint.Nowlowertheangleoftheextendedshoulderlineby¼"(6mm);loweringtheangleby¼"(6mm)willallowforfreemovementofthearm.(Ifyouwouldlikethedroppedshouldertofitmorecloselytothearm,youcanlowertheanglemorethan¼"[6mm]).

Cutoutthenewpattern.

2.TracetheCenterBackPrincessBodicepatternpiecefromsheet3.Lowerthenecklinealongthecenterbackby2¾"(7cm).Drawasmoothcurvefromthispointtotheshoulderpoint.Makesurethefirst¼"(6mm)ofthecurveisperpendiculartothecenterback.Extendtheshoulderandbackseamuntiltheyintersectasyoudidwiththefrontpattern.Lowertheshoulderangleby¼"(6mm).Cutoutthenewpattern.

3.Placethenewcenterbackpatternontopofthenewcenterfrontpatternandchecktheshoulderangleofthebackpatternagainstthefrontandadjustittomatchthefrontshoulderangle,ifneeded.

4.Followthebasicsewinginstructionsfortheregularprincessbodice.

ASIMPLECHANGETOANECKLINEOFADRESSCANHAVEBIGstyleimpact.Changingtheshapeofanecklineoraddingacollarcanmakeabasicdressdesigndistinctiveandunique.Thischapterincludesinstructionsandillustrationsforhowtousethescoopneck,V-neck,boatneck,andhighV-necknecklinetemplatesenclosedintheenvelopeatthebackofthebookinordertochangethebasicbodiceorprincessbodicenecklines.ItalsoincludesinstructionsandillustrationsforhowtomakepatternsforandsewaPeterPan,Johnny,mandarin,andband-typecollar.

THEHIGHV-NECK

Cocktails,anyone?Thisdressscreams’60sglamour,fromtherichcolortotheclassicsilhouettewithastraightskirt.Feelfreetoglamitupwithanupdoanddramaticearrings—thisunusualnecklineislikeaneye-catchingaccessoryuntoitself.Usethissametechniquetomodifythenecklineofthebasicorprincess

bodicewiththeV-neckorscoop-necktemplates.

1.TracetheFrontBasicBodicepattern(sheet1front)ortheCenterFrontPrincessBodicepattern(sheet2front).CuttheHighV-Necktemplatefromsheet3front.Placethetemplateoverthepattern,aligningtheshoulderandcenterfront.

2.Tracethenewnecklineontothepatternandcutoutthenewpattern.

THESCOOPNECK

AvariationoftheDay-to-EveningSheath,thisdressisabitmoreplayful,showingjustahintofcollarbone.Acrispcottonwithabitofstretchmakesit

equallyappropriateasawarm-weatherlookfortheoffice.Thisdressshowshoweasyitistocreateanewdesignbysimplychangingasingleelement.Here,IoverlaidtheScoopNecktemplateontotheFrontBasicBodicepatternandkepteverythingelse,includingthestraightskirt,thesame

astheoriginal.

1.TracetheFrontBasicBodicepattern(sheet1front)ortheCenterFrontPrincessBodicepattern(sheet2front).CuttheScoopNecktemplatefromsheet3front.Placethetemplateoverthepattern,aligningtheshoulderandcenterfront.

2.Tracethenewnecklineontothepatternandcutoutthenewpattern.

THEDEEPV-NECK

Thisnecklineisanincrediblyflatteringchoiceformanydressdesigns.Overlaidhereonthebasicbodice,itisaneasywaytochangeapatternthatyoualreadyadore.Thesweetretrofabrichasaslightlyold-fashionedyetsubtleprint,soI

chosetopairitherewithacircleskirt.

1.TracetheFrontBasicBodicepatternortheCenterFrontPrincessBodicepattern.CuttheDeepV-Necktemplatefromsheet3front.Placethetemplateoverthepattern,aligningtheshoulderandcenterfront.

2.Tracethenewnecklineontothepatternandcutoutthenewpattern.

THEBOATNECK

Whenalleyesareonyou,don’tyouwanttobewearingsomethingthatjustsays“you”?Minimalistswilllovethissleek,simplifiedtakeonthetraditionalwhite

dresswithalongbiasskirt,whilethewideboatneckcreatesinterestbybeautifullyframingthefaceandneck.TomodifythenecklineofthebasicorprincessbodiceswiththeBoatnecktemplate,youwillneedtomodifyboththe

frontandbacknecklinesofthepattern.

1.Forthefrontneckline,tracetheFrontBasicBodicepattern(sheet1front)ortheCenterFrontPrincessBodicepattern(sheet2front).CuttheBoatnecktemplatefromsheet3front.Placethetemplateoverthepattern,aligningtheshoulderandcenterfront,andtracethenewneckline.

Cutoutthenewpattern.

2.Forthebacknecklineofthebasicbodice,tracetheBackBasicBodicepatternfromsheet1.MeasuretheshoulderseamlengthofthefrontBoatnecktemplateandadd⅝"(1.5cm).Redrawthebackbodiceshoulderseamtothislengthfromtheshoulderpoint.Movethe⅝"(1.5cm)darttothecenterofthenewshoulderseam.Redrawthenecklinewithasmoothcurvetothecenterback.Makesurethelast¼"(6mm)orsoofnewnecklineisperpendiculartothecenterback.

Forthebacknecklineoftheprincessbodice,theprocedureisthesameasforthebackbasicbodice,but,asthereisnodart,youwon’tbeaddingthe⅝"(1.5cm)forthedarttotheshoulder-seammeasurement.

THESWEETHEARTVARIATION

Thisva-va-voomsilhouetteisdesignedtogetyouattention.Thecasualcottonmakesthisdressmoresophisticatedandsweetthanamoretraditionalevening-

dressfabricmight,andstrapsthattieinabowattheneckprovideextrasupport.Thisdresswouldevenbecutefordaytimewearunderajeanjacket.

Here,it’sattachedtothestraightskirt.

note•Youwillusethesameyardageamountsasforthestraplessbodice.Add¼yardoffabricforthestraps.

1.Cut4stripsfromyourfashionfabricthatare2¼"(5.5cm)widebythedesired

length(orlongenoughtotiearoundyourneck).

2.Attachasafetypintotherightsideofoneofthestrips1½"(3.8cm)fromoneoftheshortendsandparalleltothelongeredges.Withrightsidestogether,sewanotherstriptotheonewiththesafetypinalongeachlongedgeandtheshortedgethat’sclosesttothesafetypin,makingsurenottosewoverthepin.Gradetheseamallowancesandclipthecornersoftheshortsewnend.Turnthestraprightsideoutbywigglingthesafetypintowardtheopenshortend.Repeatwiththeothertwofabricstrips,andpressboth.

3.OntheCenterFrontStraplessBodicepatternpiecefromsheet1back,drawasmoothcurvefromthecenterfront,howeverlowyouwantthedipofthesweetheartnecklinetobe,tothetopofthebustseamandslash.

4.Becausethesweetheartnecklineiscutthroughthebiasgrain,youwillneedtostaystitchthenecklinetopreventitfromstretchingoutandgaping.Aligntherawedgesofthestrapswiththetoprawedgeoftherightsideofthesewnbodicefront—anywhereyouprefer—andstitchalittlebitinside(closertotherawedge)the⅝"(1.5cm)seamallowance.

5.Followsteps3–5forthestraplessbodice,keepingthestrapsinthedownwardpositionwhenyousewtheliningtothebodicealongthetopedge.Thestrapswillbesandwichedinbetweenthefashionfabricandthelining.

I t’samazinghowmuchimpactsuchasmalldetailasacollarcanmaketothedesignofadress.Collarsthatstandup,likeabandcollar,orashirt

collarframetheneckinaflatteringway.Aflat,easy-to-makePeterPancollarcanbemadeinacontrastingcolortointerestingeffect.AJohnnycollarsewntoaV-necklinebringsattentiontothehollowoftheneck.Somecollarsaresewntothenecklineinsuchawaythattheycovertherawedgeoftheneckline,whilesomearesewntothenecklineinthesamewayafacingisattached.Allcollarshelptosetadressapart,givingitaunique,detailedlook.

Interfacinggivesacollarabitmorestiffnessandstructure.(Seehereformoreaboutinterfacing.)Touseinterfacinginyourcollar,applyittothewrongsideofthefashionfabric,accordingtothemanufacturer’sinstructions,onthecollarpiecethatshowstheleast.Forexample,tothemandarinorbandcollar,addinterfacingtothepiecethatsitsclosesttotheneck.Forcollarsthatlieflat,addittotheundersideofthecollar.Youcanalsoaddittobothsidesofthecollar.Thisisespeciallyusefulwhenworkingwithfabricsthatareeasilydistorted,astheinterfacingwillensurebothsidesofthecollararesimilarlystabilized.Remembertocutinterfacingpiecesalongwithyourfashionfabricifyoudecidetouseit.

Collarsuseasmallerseamallowancetocutdownonbulk.Usea⅜seamallowancetosewthecollarandtoattachittothebodice.

THEBANDCOLLAR

Thisstyleisjustabandwithnocollarattachedtoit.Itoverlapsinthefrontforabuttonclosureusedwithafront-openingbodicelikeabutton-down.Itcoverstherawedgeofthenecklinewhensewntothebodice.YoucanusetheexistingBandcollarpatternonsheet2backforthis.

1.Cut2bandsfromyourfashionfabricwiththepattern’scenterbackonthefold.

2.Trimthefrontandbackbodicepatternnecklinesby¼"(6mm)sotheywillmatchthe⅜"(1cm)seamallowanceofthecollar.Sewthecollarpieceswithrightsidestogetherusinga⅜"(1cm)seamallowancealongtheoutsideedgeonly;don’tsewthenecklineedge.Gradetheseamallowancesandclipthecurves.Turnrightsideoutandpress.

3.Withrightsidestogether,alignonerawedgeofthecollartotherawedgeofthenecklineandsewwitha⅜"(1cm)seamallowance.Presstheunsewnrawedgeofthecollartotheinsideby⅜"(1cm).Flipthecollarovertherawedgeoftheneckline.Sewclosetothefoldededgeontheinsideoftheneckline.Seethebutton-downbodicewithcollarforanillustratedexampleofhowtosewthebandtocovertherawedgeoftheneckline.Makeabuttonhole.

THEJOHNNYCOLLAR

AJohnnycollarstandsupabitinthebackbutliesflatinfront.ItextendsthedesiredamountdownaV-neckandissewntothenecklineinthesamewayasthePeterPanandmandarincollars.Itwillworkwitheitheraback-orside-zipperbodice.SeethispageforhowtoalterthebasicbodicenecklineusingtheDeepV-necktemplateonpatternsheet3front.

1.Drawthestitchingline⅝"(1.5cm)infromtheedgeofthefrontandbackpatternneckline.Trimthe⅝"(1.5cm)seamallowanceofthenecklineby¼"(6mm).Measurethebackbodice’sneckstitchingline.Drawarectangle3"(7.5cm)wideandaslongasthebackneckmeasure.

2.Markthestitchinglineofthefrontbodiceshoulder⅝"(1.5cm)infromtheedgeofthepattern.MeasuredownthefrontV-neckfromtheshoulderstitchinglinetothelengththatyouwantthefinishedcollartobe.Extendthebottomlineoftherectangleoutthisamount.Drawaperpendicularlineupfromthisend2½"(6.5cm).Connectthisendbacktothetopoftheoriginalrectangle.Cutdownfromthetopedgeoftherectanglealmosttothebottom,leavingasmallhingetopivot.Spreadthecut,bendingtherectangle,untilthecutedgesmeasure1"(2.5cm)apart.Placepaperbehinditandtapeinplace.Blendtheedgesofthecutwithaslightlycurvededge.Blendthecorneratthebottomoftherectangletoacurve.

3.Foraback-zipbodice,add⅜"(1cm)seamallowancestoalledges;cut4fromthefashionfabric.Foraside-zipbodicewithacontinuouscollar,adda⅜"(1cm)seamallowancetoalledgesexceptthecenterback.Cut2withthecenterbackofthepatternonthefold.

4.Withrightsidestogether,sewthecollaralongalledgesexceptthenecklineedge.Gradeandcliptheseamallowances.Turnrightsideoutandpress.Alignandsewbothrawedgesofthecollartotheneckline.

5.MakeafacingfortheV-neckline.Remembertomakethefacingwitha⅜"(1cm)seamallowance,liketheneckline.Withrightsidestogether,alignandsewtherawedgesofthefacingtotherawedgesofthecollarandbodiceneckline(thecollarwillbesandwichedinbetween).GradetheseamsandcliptheseamallowancesatthepointoftheV,makingsurenottocutthroughthestitching.Turnthefacingtotheinsideandpress.RefertothePeterPancollarforanillustratedexampleofhowtosewthistypeofcollartotheneckline.

JohnnyCollarcloseup

THEMANDARINCOLLAR

Asatextiledesigner,Ilovethecontrastbetweenthecleanlinesofthisdressandtheromantic,painterlyprint.Itisreminiscentofthe’60s-eradresseswornbyMaggieCheunginIntheMoodforLove.Amandarincollarisbasicallyabandcollar,butitdoesnotoverlapinthefront.Insteadofcoveringtheraw

edgeoftheneckline,themandarincollar,likethePeterPancollar,issewntothebodicewithafacing.

note•Thiscollarneedstobemadewithaback-zipperbodice.Youwon’tbeabletogetyourheadthroughthenecklineofaside-zipperbodice.

1.TomodifytheBandCollarpatternonsheet4intoamandarincollar,measurebackfromthefrontedge2"(5cm)anddrawalineperpendiculartotheedges.Drawasecondline,⅝"(1.5cm)backfromthefirstline.

2.Foldthepatternsothe2linesmeet.Tapeinplace.Adda⅜"(1cm)seamallowancetothecenterbackofthepattern.Cut4fromyourfashionfabric.

3.RefertothePeterPancollarforanillustratedexampleofhowtosewthistypeofcollartotheneckline.Trimthefrontandbackbodicepatternnecklinesby¼"(6cmm)sotheywillmatchthe⅜"(1cm)seamallowanceofthecollar.Withright

sidestogether,sewthecollarpiecesalongthecurvededgebutnotthenecklineedge.Gradetheseamsandclipthecurves.Turnthecollarrightsideoutandpress.Alignandsewbothrawedgesofthecollartotheneckline.Makeafacingfortheneckline.

4.Remembertomakethefacingwitha⅜"(1cm)seamallowanceliketheneckline.Withrightsidestogether,alignandsewtherawedgesofthefacingtotherawedgesofthecollarandbodiceneckline(thecollarwillbesandwichedinbetween).Gradetheseamsandclipthenecklinecurve,makingsurenottocutthroughthestitching.Turnthefacingtotheinsideandpress.

Thefinishedmandarincollar

THEBUTTON-DOWNBODICE

Theclassicshirtwaistgetsamodernupdatewithamorerelaxedsilhouetteandafun,graphicprint.Shownwithahalf-circleskirtthatismodifiedforafront-buttonclosing(seestep14),itlooksgreatwithotherskirtsthathaveahintof

fullness.Thebutton-downbodiceistheperfectdesigntotestyourcollar-draftingskillswithanyoftheoptionsinthischapter.Theseinstructionsarefor

thebutton-downbodicewithcollarandarmholefacings.

FrontBasicBodice(sheet1front)BackBasicBodice(sheet1front)ButtonExtension(sheet2front)ButtonPlacementTemplate(sheet2back)CollarandBand(sheet2back)

FASHIONFABRIC

45"(114cm)fabric:•Sizes1to12:1½yards(1.4m)60"(152.5cm)fabric:•Sizes1to9:¾yard(68.5cm)•Sizes10to12:1½yards(1.4m)

FACINGFABRIC

½yard(45.5cm)of45"(114cm)or60"(152.5cm)facingfabric¾yard(68.5cm)of20"(51cm)interfacing

Buttons

Thebutton-downbodicewillworkwellwithalargevarietyoffabrics.Seethispageformoreaboutfabrics.

notes•Skipthearmholefacingsifyouwillbeaddingsleeves.•Ifyoumakethebutton-downbodicewithonlyafrontbutton-downopening—thatis,withoutabackorsidezipperextendingthroughtheskirtwaist—thenyouwillneedtomodifywhicheverskirtyoupairitwithtohavethesamekindoffront-buttonopening(seestep14).Ifyoudon’t,whenyousewtheskirttothebodice,youwon’tbeabletogettheskirtoveryourhips.Ifyouprefernottomodifytheskirtinthisway,

thenaddasideorbackzipper(rememberingtoadd⅝"[1.5cm]tothecenterbackofthepattern)tothebodiceinadditiontothefront-buttonopening.

•Theseamallowancesfortheband,collar,andbodicenecklineofthisprojectare⅜"(1cm).Alltheotherseamallowancesare⅝"(1.5cm).

1.TraceandcuttheFrontandBackBasicBodicepatternsfromsheet1.TraceandcuttheButtonExtensionfromsheet2front.TraceandcuttheCollarandBandpatternsfromsheet2back.TraceandcuttheButtonPlacementTemplatefromsheet2back.

2.Tapethebuttonextensiontothecenterfrontofthebodicepattern.TrimthenecklineoftheFrontandBackBasicBodicepatternnecklinesby¼"(6mm).

3.Makethefacingpatternforthefrontandbackarmholesbytracingthepattern.

4.Cutthefashionfabric,facingfabric,andinterfacingaccordingtotheappropriatecuttinglayoutforyourfabricwidthandsize.

5.Withrightsidestogether,sewthecollaralongthesideandtopedgesusinga⅜"(1cm)seamallowance.Clipthecornerswithoutcuttingthroughthestitches.Turncollarrightsideoutandpress.

6.Placethetwobandpiecesrightsidestogether.Placethecollarinbetweenand,withrawedgesaligned,pinandsewthebandtothecollarusinga⅜"(1cm)seamallowance.Clipthecurves,turnthebandrightsideout,andpress.

7.Sewthedartsonthefrontbodicepieces.Pressthebustdartsdownandthewaistdartstowardthecenter.Sewthebackbodicedartsandpresstowardthecenter.

8.Pressthebuttonextensiononbothfrontbodicepiecestothewrongsidebytheamountmarkedonthepattern;repeatandstitchclosetothefoldededge.Withright

sidestogether,sewtheshoulderandsideseams.Presstheseamopen.

9.TurnthebodicerightsideoutandplacetheButtonPlacementtemplateononeofthebuttonextensions,liningitupwiththefoldededge.Markthebuttonsforyourchosensizeaccordingtothetemplatewithtailor’schalkoradressmaker’spencil.Repeatontheotherbuttonextension.

10.Applytheinterfacingtothewrongsideofthefacingfabricaccordingtothe

manufacturer’sinstructions(seeInterfacingformoreinfo).Withrightsidestogether,sewthefrontandbackarmholefacingsattheshoulderandsideseams.Presstheseamsopen.

11.Sewthearmholefacingstothebodicewithrightsidestogether.

12.Withrightsidestogether,pinandsewonesideofthecollarbandtothenecklineusinga⅜"(1cm)seamallowance.

Presstheremainingrawedgeofthebandtotheinsideby⅜"(1cm).Flipthebandovertherawedgeoftheneckline.Pinandstitchclosetothefoldededgeontheinsideoftheneckline.

13.Gradetheseams,clipthecurves,andfinishtheseamallowances,ifdesired.Turnthearmholefacingtotheinsideofthebodiceandpress.

14.Tomakethedressasshown,maketheone-seamhalf-circleskirtbutdon’taddtheseamallowances.Instead,extendtheseamallowancesthesameamountasthebuttonextensionusedforthebodice.Foldtheseamallowancestothewrongsidetwicebythesameamountyoudidonthebodicebuttonextension.Sewclosetothefoldededge.Spacethebuttonsthesameamountapartasonthebodicepattern.

THEPETERPANCOLLAR

Thisadorablecollarstyleisn’tjustreservedforschoolgirls.ThePeterPancollarhasseenarevivalonthenecksofsophisticatedwomen,andit’saneasy

waytoswitchupthelookofadresscombinationthatyouloveandwearfrequently.ContrastthesweetnessofthePeterPanwithamoresedatedress,likethisblack-and-whitestripedstylethatpairsthebasicbodicewiththebox-

pleatvariationofthepleatedskirt.

notes•APeterPancollarliesflatagainstthebodice.Itcanbemadewitheitherafront-(likeabutton-down)orback-openingbodice.Ifyoumakeitforaside-zipperbodice,youwon’tbeabletogetyourheadthroughthenecklinesodon’tdothat.•Thiscollarismadewitha⅜"(1cm)seamallowance.Trimthebodicepatternnecklineby¼"(6mm)soitwillmatchthe⅜"(1cm)seamallowanceofthecollar.Whenafacingiscalledfor,remembertoalsomakethefacing’sseamallowance⅜"(1cm).

ThefinishedPeterPancollar1.Tomakethepattern,firsttrimthefrontandbackbodicepatternnecklineby¼"(6mm)sothatthefinishedseamallowancewillbe⅜"(1cm).Marktheshoulder

stitchinglinesofyourbodicepattern⅝"(1.5cm)infromtheedgeandtapethefrontbodicetothe

backbodice,liningupthemarkedneckstitchingline(theseamallowanceswillbeoverlapped).At

abouta45-degreeangletothecenterfrontofthebodice,mark3"(7.5cm).Ata45-degreeangleto

thecenterback,markout2"(5cm).Alongtheshoulderline,markout2½"(6.5cm).Startingatthe

center-frontneckline,curveouttothe3"(7.5cm)mark,theshouldermark,andthe2"(5cm)mark

ontheback,endingatthecenter-backneckline.

2.Adda⅜"(1cm)seamallowancetotheouteredgesonly,sincetheseamallowanceontheneckedgeisalreadythere.ThisistheclassicPeterPancollarintwohalves.Ifyouwishtohaveonecontinuouscollar(asyoumightwithafront-openingbutton-downbodiceforinstance),simplycontinueperpendicularfromthe2"(5cm)marktothecenterback(asshownbythedottedlineinthediagrambelow)anddonotaddtheseamallowancetothecenterbackofthepatternpiece.Ifmakingacontinuouscollardonotaddtheseamallowancetothecenterbackofthepattern.

3.Foracollarinhalves,cut4fromyourfashionfabric.Foracontinuouscollaronafront-openingbodice,cut2onthefoldfromyourfashionfabric.

4.Sewthecollarpieces,withrightsidestogether,alongtheoutsideedge(don’tsewthenecklineedge)usinga⅜"(1cm)seamallowance.Gradetheseamallowancesandclipthecurves.Turnrightsideoutandpress.Alignandsewbothrawedgesofthecollartotheneckline.

5.Makeafacingfortheneckline.Remembertomakethefacingwitha⅜"(1cm)seamallowanceliketheneckline.Withrightsidestogether,alignandsewtherawedgesofthefacingtotherawedgesofthecollarandbodiceneckline(thecollarwillbesandwichedinbetween).

6.Gradetheseamsandclipthenecklinecurve,makingsurenottocutthroughthestitching.Turnthefacingtotheinsideandpress.

WHILEITISTRUETHATSEWINGASET-INSLEEVECANBEABITofafinickyundertaking,itreallyisn’tthatdifficult.Aswithallthingsinsewing,practicewillgiveyoutheconfidencetoknowthatthisisyetanotherthingthatyoucandefinitelydo.Ifyouhaven’tsewnasleevebefore,Irecommendpracticingabitwithamuslinbeforetakingontherealthing.Patternsforthecapsleeve,shortsleeve,three-quartersleeve,andlongsleevecanbefoundintheenvelopeatthebackofthebook,andallfourofthemusethesamebasictechnique.Evenmoredesigntechniqueswillallowyoutochangethebasicsleevepatternstocreatepuffedsleeves,bellsleeves,andsplitsleeves—allincludedinthischapter’sPatternDesignSpotlight.

Andhere’sasecret:Youcanavoidsewingaset-insleevealtogetherbychangingthebodicepatterntoincludeanall-in-onesleeve.Instructionsforanall-in-onecapsleeveandanall-in-onekimonosleeveareincludedinthischapteraswell.

THECAPSLEEVE

Oh,thelittleblackdress.Ifthereisonedressyouneedinyourcloset,thisisit.Thecapsleevemakesitversatileforworkandplay,alongwiththebasicbodice

modifiedwiththeboatneckandastraightskirt.

LONGSLEEVE

•¾yard(68.5cm)of45"(114cm)or60"(152.5cm)fabric,1foldlayout

THREE-QUARTERSLEEVE

•¾yard(68.5cm)of45"(114cm)or60"(152.5cm)fabric,1foldlayout

SHORTSLEEVE

•½yard(45.5cm)of45"(114cm)or60"(152.5cm)fabric,1foldlayout

CAPSLEEVE

•Sizes1to6:¼yard(23cm)of45"(114cm)or60"(152.5cm)fabric,1foldlayout•Sizes7to12:½yard(45.5cm)of45"(114cm)or60"(152.5cm)fabric,1foldlayout

note•Usea⅝"(1.5cm)seamallowanceforallsewing.

1.Traceandcutyourchosenlong,three-quarter,short,orcapsleevefrompatternsheet2back.

2.Withthefabricfolded,laythepatternontopandcut2sleevesfromthefashionfabric.Transfernotchesonthetopcurveoftheshoulder(sleevecap)usingtailor’schalkoradressmaker’spencil.Thereisonenotchatthefrontshoulder,oneatthecentershoulder,andtwonotchesatthebackshoulder.Thesesamenotchesaremarkedonthebodicepattern(onenotchatthefrontofthearmholeandtwoatthebackarmhole),allowingyoutolineupthesenotcheswhenpinningandsewingthesleevetothebodice.Usethebodicepatterntomarkthenotchesonyoursewnbodice.

3.Sewalineofbastingstitchesbyhandormachinebetweenthefrontandbacknotches.Donotbackstitch.

Gatherveryslightlybetweenthenotches.Thissmallamountofgatheringprovidesalittlemorespaceattheshoulderandallowsformorecomfortablemovementofthearm.Italsogivesthesleeveatinybitofheightattheshoulder,whichisaestheticallypleasing.

4.Withrightsidestogether,foldthesleeveandsewtheunderarmseam.Presstheseamopen.

5.Withyourbodiceinsideout,pinthesleevetotheinsideofthearmholewithrightsidestogether.Makesuretoalignthefrontandbacksleevenotchmarkingswiththefrontandbackbodicearmholenotchmarkings,thesleeveshouldernotchwiththeshoulderseamofthebodice,andtheunderarmseamofthesleevewiththesideseamofthebodice.Takeyourtimewiththisandmakesurethattheslightgatheringatthetopofthesleeveisevenlydistributedbetweenthenotches.Sewthesleevetothebodice.Dothisslowlyandinshortburstssothatyoucankeeptheseamflatunderyourneedleasyousewaroundthearmhole.Beforeremovingthebastingstitches,takealookatthesleeveandmakesuretheslightgathersattheshoulderlookevenlydistributedwithnomajorpuckers.

6.Finishthehemofthesleevebysergingorzigzag-stitchingtherawedge.Presstotheinsideby⅝"(1.5cm)andstitchclosetothefinishededge.Clipthecurvesand

finishtheseamallowances,ifdesired.

MODERNAPRONDRESS(SHOWNWITHA¾-CIRCLESKIRT)

Whenyou’vemasteredthepatternmodificationsfeaturedinthePatternDesignSpotlightsthroughoutthebook,trythesecombinationsofthetechniques.

Spotlightsthroughoutthebook,trythesecombinationsofthetechniques.

1.UsetheBasicBodicepatternandshiftthebustdarttothewaist.

2.Addthecapsleevetothepattern.

3.Drawthelinesasshown.Cutthroughthelinesanddiscardthelowernecklinepiece.

4.Add⅝"(1.5cm)seamallowancestoallthelinesthatwerecut,includingthedart,asthedarthasbecomeaseam.Tracethenewpatternpieces.

MINTDREAMSDRESS

(SHOWNWITHA¾-CIRCLESKIRT)

AftermasteringthepatternmodificationsdiscussedthroughoutthebookinthePatternDesignSpotlights,givethesetechniquecombinationsatry.

1.UsetheBasicBodicepatternandshiftthebustdarttothewaist.

2.Addthecapsleevetothepattern.Drawlinesasshown.

3.Slashthesleeve,throughthetopofthebodicetothenecklineasshown,tocreateayoke.Discardthebottompartofthesleeve.Slashthelinesthatextendfromthetipofthedartbutleavesmallhingesatthetip.Closethewaistdart,spreadthepiecesforgathers,andtracethenewshape.Add⅝"(1.5cm)seamallowancestothebottomofthesleeve,thebottomoftheyoke,andtheedgethatwillbegatheredtocompletethepattern.Gatherfabricmoretowardthefront,withverylittlegatheringatthesides.

THESHORTSLEEVE

Dependingonwhereyoulive,earlyfalldayscanbethemostdifficulttodressfor.Betweenchillymorningsandsunnyafternoons,whoknowswhatthe

weathermaybring?Shortsleeveshelpsolvethisdilemma:Youcanchooseatweedy,heavierfabricsuchasthisplaidbutfeelfreetogoforawalkonyour

lunchbreak.Usetheinstructionsfoundwiththecapsleeveonthebasicbodice,andcompletethelookbydraftingahalf-circleskirt.

THETHREE-QUARTERSLEEVE

Thekeytoacingajobinterviewisakillerrésumé,afirmhandshake,and,ofcourse,aperfectlypolishedoutfit.Bepreparedtomakeagoodimpressionwiththisstructureddressthatreallyshowsthemajorimpactthatchangingafewdetailscanmakeinadressdesign.StartwiththebasicbodiceandfollowtheinstructionstocreateanewnecklinewiththedeepV-necktemplate.Createyourthree-quarter-lengthsleevefollowingtheinstructionsforthecapsleeve

andattachastraightskirt.

THELONGSLEEVE

Whenthethermometerdrops,you’llwanttocoverupwithoutsacrificingstyle.Enterthislong-sleevedstyleinaheavierknitfabric,pairedwithahalf-circle

skirt.Ponteisavailableinarangeofhues.Tryavibrantjeweltoneandwatchitchaseawaythewinterblues.Usethelong-sleevepatternandthesewing

instructionswiththeCityChicLBDtocreatethelongsleevesandsetthemintotheprincessbodice.

PUFFEDSLEEVE

1.Traceandcutoutthesleevepatternofyourchoice.Transferthefront,

back,andshouldersleevenotchestothenewpattern.

2.Cutoffthe⅝"(1.5cm)hemallowance.

3.Drawparallelstraightlinesfromthefront,back,andshouldernotches.And2morelinesbetweenthefrontandshouldernotchesandtheshoulderandbacknotches.Slashthepatternalongthelines.

4.Spreadthepatternevenlytothedesiredpuffiness.Beginwitha1"(2.5cm)spreadbetweeneachpiece.Redrawtheshouldercurve(sleevecap)sothatitextendsupwardfromtheoriginalcentershouldernotchby1"(2.5cm).Extendthehemdownwardby1"(2.5cm).

5.Adda⅝(1.5cm)seamallowancetothehem.

PUFFEDSLEEVEBAND

1.Toadda½"(13mm)bandforapuffysleeve,cutastripoffabricthatisthesamemeasurementasthehemoftheoriginalsleevepattern(aftertheseamallowancewascutoff)by1⅝"(4cm).

2.Hand-ormachine-bastebetweenthefrontandbackshouldernotchesandatthehem.Gathertheshouldercurve(sleevecap)betweenthenotches.Gatherthehemtothesamesizeastheband.

3.Withrightsidestogether,sewthebandtothebottomofthesleeve.

4.Withrightsidestogether,foldthesleeveandsewtheunderarmseam.Presstheseamopen.

5.Pressthebandtothewrongsideby½"(13mm).Repeatandsewclosetothefoldededge.

PUFFEDSHOULDERSONLY

1.Tomodifyanyofthesleevepatternsforasleevethatispuffyatthe

shoulderbutnotatthehem,followsteps1–3forthePuffedSleevebutslashfromtheshoulderanddonotcutallthewaythroughthehem.Insteadleavesmallhinges.

2.Spreadthesleeveevenlyattheshoulder.Redrawtheshouldercurve(sleevecap)sothatitextendsupwardfromtheoriginalcentershouldernotchby1"(2.5cm).

3.Adda⅝"(1.5cm)seamallowancetothehem.Becauseoftheinwardcurveofthehemline,thissleevewillneedtobefacedratherthanhemmed.seehereformoreaboutfacings.

BELLSLEEVE

1.Tomodifyanyofthesleevepatternsforabell-shapedsleeve,repeatsteps1–3forthePuffedSleevebutslashfromthehemanddonotslashallthewaythroughtheshouldercurve.Insteadleavesmallhinges.

2.Spreadthesleeveevenlyatthehemandadd1"(2.5cm)oflength.

3.Adda⅝"(1.5cm)seamallowancetothehem.

SPLITBELLSLEEVE

1.Followsteps1–3fortheBellSleeve(previouspage).

2.Slashthepatternatthecentershouldernotch.

3.Adda⅝"(1.5cm)seamallowancetothecenterfrontpieces.

ALL-IN-ONECAPSLEEVE

Thebasicbodiceandsleevepatternscanbejoinedtomakeapatternthatiscutallinonewiththebodice.Theadvantageisthatyoudon’thavetocutorsewaset-insleeve,makingtheprocessalittlequicker.Theall-in-onecapsleeveissewnfronttobackusinganoverarmseam,extendingonlypartofthewaydownthearmhole.

1.Tomakethepatternfortheall-in-onecapsleeve,tracetheFrontandBackBasicBodicepatternsfromsheet1.Cutoffthe⅝"(1.5cm)seamallowanceonboththefrontandbackbodicearmholecurves.Traceoneofthesleevepatternsfromsheet2back;youonlyneedthesleeve-capportionofthesleeve,soanyofthesleevepatternswilldo.

2.Drawastraightlinedownfromtheshoulderpointnotch.Drawalinefromthefrontsleevenotch(onenotch)tothebacksleevenotches(twonotches).

3.Cutoutthefrontandbacksleevecaps.Markandcutoffthe⅝"(1.5cm)seamallowancesfromthesleevecapcurves.Markthemfrontandbackandmakeamarkattheshoulderpointoneachtoindicatewheretheshoulderis.

4.Onboththefrontandbackbodice,aligntheappropriatesleevecapsothatthecurveofthesleevecapistouchingthearmholecurveandtheshoulderpointofthesleevecapis½"(13mm)awayfromtheshoulderpointofthebodice.Theshoulderpointsofthebodiceandsleevecapshouldbeparalleltoeachother.

5.Raisetheshoulderpointofthebodiceby¼"(6mm).Drawacurvetothesleevehemfromthispoint.Connecttheraisedshoulderpointtotheneckline.Onthebackbodice,extendtheshoulderdarttothenewshoulder

line.Drawaslightcurveatthebottomofthesleevetoblenditintothearmhole,whichwillalsobeeasiertosewthananangle.Add⅝"(1.5cm)hemallowancetothesleeveandtheremainderofthearmholetofinishthepattern.Sewthedartsandthenwithrightsidestogether,sewtheshoulderseamsandsideseams.

KIMONOSLEEVE

Thekimonosleevewasquitepopularinthe’40sand’50s.Justlookathowmanyofthepatternsfromthattimeshowasleevethatisnotsewntothebodicebutisallinonewiththebodiceandsewnfronttobackwithanoverarmseam.Itiscertainlyastylishsolutiontoavoidsewingaset-insleeve!

1.Tomakethepatternforthekimonosleeve,startbytracingtheFrontandBackBasicBodicepatternsfromsheet1.Shiftthebustdarttothewaist.Tracethedesiredsleevepattern.Anyofthemwillwork;itjustdependsonyourpreferredlength.Cutoffthe⅝"(1.5cm)hemallowanceofthesleeve.

2.Alignthefrontandbackbodicesothattheyaretouchingatthenecklineandthefrontshoulderisspread½"(13mm)fromthebackshoulderseam.Don’tworryabouttheshoulderdart.Thisdesignhassomewearingeaseunderthearmthatwillallowthearmtomovecomfortably.Alignthesleevepatternatthearmholesothattheunderarmcurveofthesleeveistouchingthesideseamofthefrontandbackbodiceequally.Tapeinplace.Drawalinefromthenecklinewherethefrontandbackaretouchingtothemiddleofthesleevehem.Makeamark1½"(3.8cm)diagonallyfromtheunderarm.Extendthewidthofthesleevehemby⅝"(1.5cm)oneachside.Drawasmoothcurvefromtheside-seamwaisttotheunderarmmarktotheextendedsleevehemonboththefrontandback.

3.Addthesleevehemallowancebytracingthehemallowanceoftheoriginalsleevepattern,extendingthewidthby⅝"(1.5cm)oneachsidetomatchthenewwidthofthesleeve.

4.Tracethenewpatternandcutapartalongthelinefromthenecklinetothesleevehem.Whensewing,sewthefronttothebackwithrightsides

togetheralongthesideseams,theunderarmseam,andtheoverarmseam.

THISCHAPTERPROVIDESILLUSTRATIONSANDINSTRUCTIONSFORthebias-cutgownskirt,thestraightskirt,andtheflaredsix-panelskirt.Thepatternsforthesecanbefoundintheenvelopeatthebackofthebook.Instructionsarealsogivenforhowtocreatethepatternforthefull-,half-,three-quarter-,andquarter-circleskirts,aswellasasimplegatheredorpleatedskirt.SeeAttachingtheSkirtforhowtosewtheskirttothebodice,andthispageforhowtoinsertthezipper.Patternalterationstoachieveabetterfitforyourskirtaredescribedonthispage.

Anyoftheskirtsinthischaptercanbemadeasastand-aloneskirtbyaddingawaistband;seethispagefordirections.IllustrationsandinstructionsforeasypatterndesigntechniquesarealsoincludedinthePatternDesignSpotlightsectionofthischapter.ThereyouwillfindsimpletechniquestomodifythebasicstraightskirtpatterntomakeanA-lineorfullhemskirt,awrapskirt,andacombinationgathered/A-lineskirt.

THEBIASSKIRT

Stealtheshowwhenyoumakeanentranceinthisdramaticgownwithclassic,OldHollywoodglamour.Theseinstructionsareforthebiasskirtwithasidezipper,butyoucanmakeitwithabackzipperinsteadwithoutmodifyingthepattern.It’sshowninthepicturewiththelinedstraplessbodice.Ifyou’renew

tosewingskirtsonthebias,makesuretoreviewmygeneralnotesonbiasgarments.

BiasSkirtFrontPieces1and2tapedtogether(sheet3back)BiasSkirtBackPieces1,2,and3tapedtogether(sheet3back)

FASHIONFABRICANDLININGFABRIC

3½yards(3.2m)of60"(152.5cm)fabric,allsizes

invisiblezipper

notes•Biasgarmentsarecutfromawholeasopposedtoahalfpattern.Theyarenotcutonafold.Thefrontskirtpatternonthepatternsheetiscutinhalfonlytosavespace.Youwillneedtotapetogetherandtracefrontpatternpieces1and2,andthentracethemagaintomakeawholefrontpattern.Or,tracearoundthetapedtogetherhalfpatternwithtailor’schalkoradressmaker’spencildirectlyontothefabric,thenliftandflipthepatterntotracetheremainingsideoftheskirt.Youwillneedtotrace,cutout,andtapetogetherthe3piecesthatmakeupthebackbiasskirtpatternonthepatternsheet.

•Thezipperlengthshouldbe8"(20.5cm)pluseitherthelengthofthebodicecenter

backforabackzipperorthelengthofthebodicesideseamforasidezipper.

Thisskirtwillworkwellwithfluid,drapey,light-tomedium-weightfabrics.Crepeisoftengreattousewithbias-cutgarmentsasithasthesequalitiesbutisalsoverystableduetoitstightweave.

Thisskirtisreallyeasyandsimpleintermsofconstruction,butitsbiascutcanstillbetricky.Cuttingitonthebiasallowsthefabrictostretch

aroundthebody,whichisgreatforfittingovercurveswithoutdarts.Butbias-cutgarmentsalsostretchdownward,whichcancauseallmannerofproblemsfromtwistyseamstoanalteredfit.Hereareafewpossiblewaystoavoidthoseproblems.

MAKEAMUSLIN!It’sreally,reallyimportanttomakeamuslinfirstinaninexpensivefabricbutonethatisassimilaraspossibletothefabricyouplantouse.Youreallyneedtomakethemuslintoseewhatproblemsmightoccur.

HANGTHEFABRIC.Youshouldalwayshangfabricyouplantouseonthebias(itwon’tdoanygoodtohangitonthestraightgrain)foraboutaweekbeforecuttingit.Thiswillensurethatithasdonealotofitsdownwardstretchingbeforeyoucutit.

HANGTHESEWNSKIRTBEFOREHEMMING.Afteryousewtheskirt,letithangforafewdaysbeforehemmingtoensureanevenhem.

INCREASETHESEAMALLOWANCES.Evenifyoumakeasuccessfulmuslinfirst,withoutusingtheexactsamefabricasyoudidforthemuslin,thefinalbiasskirtmayhaveproblems.Increasingtheseamallowancesfromthebuilt-in⅝"(1.5cm)seamallowanceto2"(5cm)oreven3"(7.5cm)allowsreshapingofthesideseamsif

necessary.Seehereformoreonalterations.

PICKTHERIGHTFABRIC.You’llhavethebestluckusingdrapeyfabricswithhighstabilityandatightweave,suchascrepe.

FORGETTHEBIAS.Anotherpossibilityissimplynottobotherwiththebias.Tryusingthepatternonthestraightgrainwithaknitfabricorawovenfabricwithabitofhorizontalstretch.

1.Traceandcutthepatternsforthefrontandbackbiasskirtfromsheet3back.Seethenote.

2.Cutthefashionfabricaccordingtothecuttinglayout.Withrightsidestogether,sewthebackpiecestogetheratthecenterback.Note:Ifyouareusingabackzipper,leavethetop8"(20.5cm)oftheseamfromthewaistopen.

3.Withrightsidestogether,sewonesideseam.Sewtheothersideseamtowithin8"(20.5cm)ofthewaist,leavingtherestoftheseamopenforthesidezipper.Makesuretheopenseamisonthesamesideasyouropenbodiceseam.Ifyoupreferaback

zipper,sewbothsideseamsandleavethebackopen.

4.Clipthecurvesandpresstheseamsopen.

5.Hemthebottomoftheskirtwitheithera1"(2.5cm)blindhemstitchorarolledhem.Lighterfabricslikechiffonworkbestwitharolledhem.Forarolledhem,presstherawedgetotheinsideby¼"(6mm)andthenstitch⅛"(3mm)fromthefoldededge.Trimtheseamallowanceveryclosetothestitchinglineandthenpresstotheinsideagainby¼"(6mm);stitchclosetothefoldededge.

6.Ifyouplantofullylinethefinaldress,repeatallstepswiththeliningfabricbutmakethelining½"(13mm)shorterthanthedresssoitwon’tpeekoutwhenmoving.

7.SeeAttachingtheSkirtforhowtoattachtheskirttothebodice.

MODIFICATIONSFORSTEP1

1.Youcanmodifythebiaspatterntoremovethetrainbydrawingastraightlineandslashingtothehem.Forasmoothlycurvedhemline,adjustthecenter-backhem,makingthelast¼"(6mm)orsoatthecenterbackperpendicular.

2.Tomakethismodifiedtrainlesspatternforasidezipperinsteadofabackzipper,cutoffthe⅝"(1.5cm)center-backseamallowance.

THESIX-PANELSKIRT

Whetherit’satasidewalkcaféintheCityofLightsorinyourownhometown,youwillfindplentyofopportunitiestowearthisdress.Theflaredhemofthe

six-panelskirtcreatesagracefulsilhouette,andtheskirt’sseamsmimicthoseoftheprincessbodice,lendingthisdressatailoredlook.Theseinstructionsareforthesix-panelskirtwithasidezipper.Ifyou’dlikethisasastand-aloneskirt,see

hereforhowtomakeawaistband.

CenterFront6-Panel(sheet2front)SideFront6-Panel(sheet2front)CenterBack6-Panel(sheet2front)SideBack6-Panel(sheet2front)

FASHIONFABRICANDLININGFABRIC

1½yards(1.4m)of45"(114cm)or60"fabric,allsizes

invisiblezipper

notes•Usea⅝"(1.5cm)seamallowanceforallsewing.•Ifyoupreferabackzipper,adda⅝"(1.5cm)seamallowancetotheCenterBack6-Panelpattern.Inthatcase,insteadofcutting1centerbackpanelonthefoldasshowninthecuttinglayout,youwillcut2separatepiecesforthebackoftheskirt.

•Thezipperlengthshouldbe8"(20.5cm)plusthelengthofthebodicecenter-backseamforabackzipperorthelengthofthebodicesideseamforasidezipper.

Inorderfortheflaredbottomofthesix-panelskirttohangcorrectlyalightweight,drapey,languidfabricshouldbeused.Seehereformoreaboutfabrics.

1.Traceandcutthepatternpiecesforthesix-panelskirtfromsheet2back.Cutthefashionfabricaccordingtothecuttinglayout.

2.Withrightsidestogether,sewonesidefrontpaneltothecenterfrontpanel.Repeatwiththeothersidefrontpanel.Presstheseamsopen.

Repeatwiththebackpanels.

3.Withrightsidestogether,sewthefronttothebackalongonesideseam.Sewtheothersideseamtowithin8"(20.5cm)ofthewaisttoleaveroomforthezipper.Makesuretoleavethesameseamopenforthezipperasyoudidonyourbodice.

4.Hembypressingthebottomedgeoftheskirttotheinsideby¼"(6mm).Presstotheinsideagainby⅜"(1cm)andstitchclosetothefoldededge.Seehereformoreabouthemming.

5.Ifyouwillbefullyliningthedress,repeatallstepswiththeliningfabricbutmakethelining½"(13mm)shorterthantheskirtsoitwon’tpeekout.

6.SeeAttachingtheSkirtforhowtoattachtheskirttothebodice.SeeZippersforhowtoinsertthezipper.

THEDIRNDLSKIRT

Everyoneneedsasummerywhitedressforcasualgatheringsandweekendgetaways.Thefulldirndlskirtisjustaseasytosewasitistowear.Thiseyeletdresswouldmakeagreatadditiontoanysummerwardrobe.Theseinstructions

areforthegathereddirndlskirtwithasidezipper.It’sshowninthesamplewiththemock-wrapbodice.Ifyou’dlikethisasastand-aloneskirt,seeherefor

howtomakeawaistband.

dependentonyourmeasurementsanddesiredskirtlength

invisiblezipper

notes•Thezipperlengthshouldbe8"(20.5cm)plusthelengthofthebodicecenter-backseamforabackzipperorthelengthofthebodicesideseamforasidezipper.

•Theamountoffabrictheskirtrequiresdependsonthefullnessandlengthyoudesire.Forheavier,thickerfabrics,youmaywantfewergathers,upto1½timesyourwaistmeasurement,astoomuchfabricwillbebulkyatthewaistandmoredifficulttogather.Forthin,lightweightfabrics,italldependsonthelookyouwant.Twicethewaistmeasurementorevenmorecanworkwellwithlighterweightfabrics.

•Thesedirectionsareforastand-aloneskirtdraftedtoyourwaistmeasurement.Ifyouwillbeattachingtheskirttoabodice,measureandusethewaistmeasurementofthefrontandbackbodice,excludingseamallowances,inplaceofyourwaistmeasurementwhencalculatingthetotalskirtwidth.

Thisskirtwillworkwellwithmanydifferenttypesandweightoffabric.Seehereformoreaboutfabrics.

1.Foraskirtwithtwosideseams,cut2rectanglesfromyourfashionfabricthatare1½–2timesyourwaistmeasurementplus1¼"(3cm)forthesideseamallowancesplusa½"forwearingeaseforthewidthbyyourdesiredlengthplus2⅝"(7cm)forthewaistandhemseamallowances.Forexample,foraskirtthatis24"(61cm)longwitha26"(66cm)waistandlotsofgathers(doublethewaistmeasurement)youwouldcalculateasfollows:

forthewidth

26"(66cm)waistmeasurement×2=52"(132cm)

52"(132cm)÷2=26"(66cm)

26"(66cm)+1¼"(3cm)+½"(13mm)=27¾"(70.5cm)

forthelength

24"(61cm)+2⅝"(7cm)=26⅝"(68cm)

Sointhiscase,eachfabricrectanglewouldbe27¾"(70.5cm)wide×26⅝"(67.5cm)long.

Foraone-seamskirt,cutafabricrectanglethatistwiceyourwaistmeasurementplus1¼"(3cm)fortheseamallowanceplus1"(2.5cm)forwearingeasebydesiredlengthplus2⅝"(7cm)forthewaistandhemseamallowances.

2.Loosenthethreadtensionoftheupperthreadonyourmachine.Thiswillmakegatheringeasier.Sew3rowsofbastingstitchesatthetopedgeofyourfabric:1justatinybitabovethe⅝"(1.5cm)seamallowance(thestitchingline)and2moreabovethattowardtherawedgeoftheseamallowance.Threerowsofstitchingensurethatifonethreadbreakswhilegathering,youhavetwomorethreadstoworkwith.

Gentlygathereachrectanglealongthethreethreadstohalfyourwaistmeasurementplus1¼"(3cm)forthesideseamallowances.

3.Tightenthethreadtensionbacktoanormalsetting.Withrightsidestogether,sewonesideseam.Makesurenottocatchanygathersintheseam.Sewtheothersideseamupto8"(20.5cm)fromthewaistlinetoleaveroomforthezipper.Makesuretoleavethesameseamopenforthezipperasyoudidwithyourchosenbodice.Presstheseamsopen.

4.Pressthehemtotheinsideby1"(2.5cm),repeat,andsewclosetothefolded

edgeoruseablindhemstitchforalessconspicuousfinish.

5.Ifyouwouldliketolinetheskirt,repeatallstepsfortheliningbutmakethelining½"(13mm)shortersothatitdoesn’tpeekoutfromundertheskirt.

6.SeeAttachingtheSkirtforhowtosewtheskirttothebodice.SeeZippersforhowtoinsertthezipper.Seehereforhowtoattachawaistbandifyoupreferastand-aloneskirt.

THEPLEATEDSKIRT

Thisdressisasclassicasawickerpicnicbasketandared-checkeredblanket.Thesimple,sleevelessbodiceallowsthepleatedskirttotakecenterstage,whiletheskirt’slongerlengthisperfectforwindydaysinthegreatoutdoors.Theseinstructionsareforthepleatedskirtshownwiththebasicbodice.Theamount

offabricitrequiresdependsonyourdesiredfullnessandlength.

dependentonyourmeasurementsanddesiredskirtlength

invisiblezipper

notes•Thezipperlengthshouldbe8"(20.5cm)plusthelengthofthebodicecenterbackforabackzipperorthelengthofthebodicesideseamforasidezipper.

•Theseinstructionsareforapleatedskirtthatisattachedtoabodice.Forastand-aloneskirtuseyourwaistmeasurementplus1"forwearingeaseinplaceofthebodicewaistlinemeasurementwhencalculatingthetotalfabricwidth.

Thepleatedskirtwillworkwithmanydifferentfabricsbutanonslipperyfabricwithabitofstiffnesswillbeeasiertoworkwithandpressintopleats.

1.Foracontinuousone-seamskirtwith1"(2.5cm)pleats,measurethefrontandbackwaistofthebasicbodicepattern(don’tincludetheseamallowances)and

multiplyby3.Eachcompletedpleatwillrequire3"(7.5cm)offabric,soifthewaistlineofyourbodicemeasures26"(66cm),forexample,yourfabricwouldneedtobe78"(198cm)wideplus1¼"(3cm)fortheseamallowancesbyyourdesiredlengthplus2⅝"(7cm)forthewaistandhemallowances.

2.Makeamarkonwhatwillbethewaistoftheskirtwithtailor’schalkoradressmaker’spencil⅝"(1.5cm)fromtheedge.Markevery1"(2.5cm)alongthewaistfromthispoint.

3.Pinchthefabrictogetherandpullitupatthe3rdmarkandbringitovertomeetthe1stmark.Pressandpininplace.Pinchtogetheratthe6thmarkandbringitovertomeetthe4thmark.Pressandpin.Pinchtogetheratthe9thmarkandbringitovertomeetthe7thmark.Continueinthiswaydownthewaistline.Leave⅝"(1.5cm)unpleatedattheendfortheseamallowance.

4.Machine-bastejustinside(closertotherawedge)the⅝"(1.5cm)seamallowancealongthewaistoftheskirttosecurethepleats.

5.Withrightsidestogether,sewthebackseamoftheskirt,leaving8"(20.5cm)opentowardthewaistlineforthezipper.Presstheseamopen.

6.Presstheheminsideby1"(2.5cm),repeat,andsewclosetothefoldededgeoruseablindhemstitch.

7.SeeAttachingtheSkirtforhowtosewthebodicetotheskirtandseeZippersforhowtoinsertthezipper.Orforastand-aloneskirt,seehereforhowtoattacha

waistband.

THEBOX-PLEATVARIATION

NotjustforValentine’sDay,thisfull-skirtedstylewouldbeperfectatanyeventthatcallsforaslightlywhimsicallook.Theboxpleatsgivetheskirtadistinctstylewithaveryconstructedlook.Itismadeinasimilarwaytothepleatedskirt.Itisshownwiththebasicbodicemodifiedwithanall-in-onesleeve,the

deepV-neck,andaJohnnycollar.

dependentonyourmeasurementsanddesiredskirtlength

invisiblezipper

notes•Thezipperlengthshouldbe8"(20.5cm)plusthelengthofthebodicecenterbackforabackzipperorthelengthofthebodicesideseamforasidezipper.

•Seehereforhowtomakeawaistbandforastand-aloneskirt.

Theboxpleatsworkwellinmedium-weightfabricswithabitofstiffnessandbody.Seethispageformoreaboutfabrics.

1.Followsteps1and2forthepleatedskirt.

2.Pinchthefabrictogetherandpullitupatthe3rdmarkandbringitovertomeet

the1stmark.Pinchandpullthefabricupatthe5thmarkandbringitovertomeetthe7thmark.Pinchandpullthefabricupatthe9thmarkandbringitovertomeetthe7thmark.Pinchitupatthe11thmarkandbringitovertomeetthe13thmark.Continueinthiswaydownthewaistline.Leave⅝"(1.5cm)unpleatedattheendfortheseamallowance.

3.Followsteps4–7forthepleatedskirttocompletethebox-pleatskirt.

THESTRAIGHTSKIRT

Astraplessbodicepairedwithastraightskirtisaflattering,yeteasy-to-sewsilhouette.Lacewithsomestretchmakesthisparty-perfect,butdon’tbeafraidtoimagineitinamorecasualcottonprintoramoredramaticfabriclikeblackdupionisilk.Theseinstructionsareforthestraightskirtwithasidezipperandbackvent.Ifyou’dliketomakethisasastand-aloneskirt,seeWaistbandfora

Stand-AloneSkirtforhowtomakeawaistband.

FrontStraightSkirt(sheet1back)BackStraightSkirt(sheet1back)

FASHIONFABRICANDLININGFABRIC

45"(114cm)fabric:•Size1:¾yard(68.5cm)•Sizes2to12:1½yard(1.4m)60"(152.5cm)fabric•Sizes1to10:¾yard(68.5cm)•Sizes11and12:1yard(0.9m)

invisiblezipper

notes•Thisskirtcanbemadewithabackzipperinsteadwithoutmodifyingthepattern.•Thezipperlengthshouldbe8"(20.5cm)plusthelengthofthebodicecenterbackforabackzipperorthelengthofthebodicesideseamforasidezipper.

•Tomaketheskirtwithouttheventsimplyextendthebackseamlinetothehemandcutofftheventextension.Unlessyou’reusingaverystretchyfabric,itwillbedifficulttowalkintheskirtwithoutsomesortofopeningatthehem.Youcanmakeasimpleslitbyleavingabout8"ofthebackseamopenfromthehem.Presstheslitseamallowancetotheinsideandfinishwithlacehemtape.

Thestraightskirtwillworkbestwithamedium-toheavier-weightfabricwithabitofbody.Itwillalsoworkwithafabricwithabitofstretch.Seehereformoreaboutfabrics.

1.TraceandcutthepatternfortheFrontandBackStraightSkirtfromsheet1back.

2.Cutthefashionfabricaccordingtotheappropriatecuttinglayoutforyourfabricwidthandsize.

3.Sewthebackdartsandpresstowardthecenter.Sergeorzigzag-stitchthestraightedgeoftheventextensions.

4.Sewthefrontdarts.Presstowardthecenter.

5.Withrightsidestogether,sewthebackskirtpiecestogetherfromthecenterbackwaistandalongthetopedgeoftheventextension.

6.Cutanotchattheintersectionofthebackseamandtheventextension.

7.Pressthebackseamopen.Presstheventextensiontooneside.Stitchtheventdiagonallyalongitstopedgetotheskirt.

8.Withrightsidestogether,sewthebackoftheskirttothefrontalongonesideseam.Sewtheothersideseam,wherethezipperwillbeinserted,towithin8"(20.5cm)ofthewaist.Makesuretoleavethesameseamopenforthezipperasyoudidforthebodice.Presstheseamsopen.

9.Unfoldtheventextensionandpressthehemtotheinsideby1"(2.5cm).Repeatandsewclosetothefoldededgeoruseablindhemstitch.Makeafewhandstitchesthroughtheedgeofthefoldedventextensionthroughonelayerofthefoldofthehemtosecure.

L iketheBasicBodicepattern,thebasicStraightSkirtpatterncanbeeasilymodifiedbyslashingandspreadingtocreatepatternsforanA-

lineskirt,askirtwithfullnessatthehem,apanelskirt,andagatheredskirtaswellasawrapskirt.

Tomakeallofthesemodificationstothebackskirtpattern,youmustfirstcutofftheventextensionandthe⅝"(1.5cm)backseamallowance.

Themodifiedpatternwouldnowbecuton the foldof fabric tocreateaskirtwithsideseamsandnobackseamforthezipper.Ifyoupreferabackzippertoasidezipperaddthe⅝"(1.5cm)backseamallowancewhenyou’redonemodifyingthepatternandcut2separatepieces,not1onthefold.

A-LINESKIRT

TheA-lineskirt

1.TracetheFrontStraightSkirtpatternfromsheet1back.Drawlinesfromthetipofthedarttothehem.

2.Slashthelines,leavinghinges.Spreadtheslashedpiecesevenlyandrotatethesideseampieceupwardtoclosethewaistdart.Tracethenewpattern.Repeatwiththebackskirtpattern.

noteYoucandothismodificationusingjustasingleslashandclosingthewaistdart.Thedartspaceopenedupatthehemwillbeexactlythesameeitherway.Theadvantagetodoingitthisway,however,isthat,whenspreadout,allthosesmallerslashedpiecesgiveyouamoreaccuratesenseofhowtodrawthenewhemline.Dependingonyourfigure,youmaywanttoflattenthehiplineoftheA-linepatternbyslashingfromtheside,waisttohem.

HowtoflattenthehiplineforanA-lineskirt

FULL-HEMSKIRT

1.StartwiththeFrontandBackA-LineSkirtpatterndescribedontheoppositepage.Drawstraightlinesthatareequallyspacedalongthewaistandhem.Themorelinesyoudraw,themoreaccuratethenewhemlinecurvewillbe,thoughtoomanylinesmaybecomedifficulttoworkwithespeciallyifusinglightweightpaper.Slashthelinesfromthehem,leavingsmallhingesatthewaist.

2.Spreadthepiecesevenly.Spreadthecenterfrontoftheskirthalftheamountoftheotherpiecesandtracethenewpattern.

TWELVE-PANELSKIRTYoucanmakefewerormorepanelsasyouwish.

1.StartwiththeFrontandBackFull-HemSkirtpattern.Markandcutoffthe⅝"(1.5cm)seamallowancealongthesideseam.Divideintoequalpartsatthewaistandhemwithstraightlines.

2.Drawanarrowthroughthemiddleofeachpaneltoindicatethegrainlineandmarknotchesoneachpiecetoindicatewheretomatchandsewthemtogether.

3.Youmayalsowanttomarkthepiecesascenterfront/back,middlefront/back,andsidefront/backforclarity.Slashthelines.Adda⅝"(1.5cm)seamallowancealongeachslashededgeandalongthecenterfrontandsideseampanel.

FULL-HEMGATHEREDSKIRT

Thegatheredfull-hemskirt

Whenyou’dliketohavefullnessandgatherswithouttoomuchbulkatthewaist,theA-lineorfull-hemgatheredskirtisagreatoption.

1.StartwiththepatternfortheA-lineorFull-HemSkirt.Drawstraightlinesthroughtheskirt,dividingthewaistandhemequally.

2.Slashandspreadthelinesvertically,makingsuretospacethemevenly.Tracethenewpattern.

WRAPSKIRT

1.UsetheFrontandBackStraightSkirtpatternsmodifiedtoanA-lineoranA-linewithafullerhem.

2.Cut2frontpiecesfromthefashionfabricand1backpiece.

3.Withrightsidestogether,sew1frontpiecetothebackpiece.Withrightsidestogether,sewtheotherfrontpiecetotheback.

4.Cutawaistbandthatis2½timesyourwaistmeasurementby3¼"(8.5cm)wide.

5.Presstheshortendsofthewaistbandtothewrongsideby⅝"(1.5cm).Pressthelongedgesofthebandtothewrongsideby⅝"(1.5cm).

6.Pressthesidesoftheskirttotheinsideby¼"(6mm),repeat,andstitchclosetothefoldededge.

7.Withrightsidestogether,aligntherawedgeofthewaistbandwiththetopoftheskirtandsew.

8.Foldthebandovertherawedgeofskirtsothatthefolded-underedgeofthewaistbandalignswiththestitchingline.Sewthewaistbandtotheskirtfromtheinside,veryclosetothefoldededge.Sewthetiesinthesameway.

9.Makeabuttonholeinthewaistbandnearonesideseamforthetietopass

through.

10.Pressthehemtotheinsideby½"(13mm).Presstotheinsideagainby⅜"(1cm)andstitchclosetothefoldededge.

THEA-LINEWRAPVARIATION

RevolutionarydesignerDianevonFurstenbergforeverchangedfashionwhenshedebutedherlittlewrapdressinthe’70s.It’ssurprisinglyeasytoconvertthemock-wrapbodiceintoatruewrapdressthattieswithanattachedfabricbelt.

Thoughshownhereinasleevelessvariation,IcanalsoenvisionthisdresscombinedwithlongsleevesandanattachedJohnnycollar.

notes•Forthemock-wrapbodice,usetheseyardageamountsandcuttinglayoutshere.•Yardagefortheskirtisvariable,dependingonhowmuchfullnessyou’veaddedtotheskirt.

1.StartwiththeMock-WrapBodicepattern(sheet2back)andtheFrontandBackA-lineSkirtpatternsmodifiedfromtheStraightSkirtpattern.You’llalsoneedtheBackBasicBodicepattern(sheet1).

2.TracethefrontA-linepattern.Flipitover,lineitupwiththecenterfrontofthetracing,andtraceagaintomakeacompleteFrontA-lineSkirtpattern.

3.MeasuretheMock-Wrappattern,notincludingthedart,atthewaist.MeasureoutfromthesideseamalongthewaistofthecompleteA-linepatternthesameamount.Makeastraightlineatthispointfromthewaistthroughthehemthatisparalleltothesideseam.Slashthepatternalongthelinetocompletethefrontwrappattern.

4.Cut2frontwrapsand1backA-lineskirtfromyourfashionfabric.Cut2mock-wrapbodicepiecesand1backbodicepiecefromyourfashionfabric.

5.Sewthemock-wrapdartsandpresstowardthecenter.Sewthebackbodicedartsandpresstowardthecenter.

6.Sewthefrontbodicepiecestothebackatthesideseamsonly.Presstheseamsopen.

7.Sewthe2frontskirtpiecestoeithersideofthebackskirtpiecewithrightsidestogether.Withrightsidestogether,sewthebodicetotheskirt,makingsurethesideseamsarealigned.Presstheseamsopen.

8.Arrangethedresssothattheshouldersarealignedwithrightsidestogether,andsewtheshoulderseams.

9.Makethepatternforthefrontfacingbytracingthefrontclosingedgeofthedress.Makethefacingatleast2⅝"(7cm)widewherepossible.Makethepatternsforthefrontandbackarmholesandbacknecklinefacingsusingthepatterns.Cutthe

facingfabricandinterfacingusingthefacingpatterns.Interfacethewrongsideofthefacingfabricaccordingtothemanufacturer’sinstructions(seehereformoreoninterfacing).

10.Sewthefrontfacingstothebacknecklinefacingattheshoulderswithrightsidestogether.Sewthefrontandbackarmholefacingswithrightsidestogetherattheshoulderandunderarmseams.Presstheseamsopen.

11.Sewthearmholefacingtothedresswithrightsidestogether.Sewthenecklinefacingstothedresswithrightsidestogetherbutleave1¼"(3cm)unsewnatthewaistonbothsidesfortheties.Makeabuttonholenearthewaistandthesideseamofthebodice.

12.Cut4stripsoffashionfabric2¼"(5.5cm)widefortheties;makesuretheyarelongenoughtowraparoundyourwaistandtieinaboworknot(approximately2.25timesyourwaistmeasurement).Press1shortendofeachstriptothewrongsideby¼"(6mm).Withthefolded-undershortendsaligned,sew2stripswithrightsidestogetheralongeachlongedge.Repeatwiththeother2strips.Turnrightsideoutusingasafetypinandpress.

13.Placeatieinbetweenthefacinganddresswithrawedgesalignedatthewaistandsew.Repeatontheothersideofthedresswiththeremainingtie.

14.Gradetheseams,clipthecurves,understitchthebodiceseamallowancetothefacing,andfinishtheseamallowances,ifdesired.Pressthefacingstotheinsideof

thedress.

THECIRCLESKIRT

Animportantdatecallsforaspecialdress,sospringforafabricwithexquisitedrape.Theeffectwillbewellworththeeffortofhandlingatrickierfabric.Circleskirtsaregreatformanystyles,fromcasualtobusinesstoparty.Theyhavetheadvantageofbeingfullatthehembutslimwithoutanybulkatthe

waist,yieldinganelegantsilhouette.Hereyou’llfindinstructionsfordraftingafull,three-quarter-,half-,andonequarter-circleskirttoyourown

measurements.

Dependsonthesizeoffinalpattern

Invisiblezippernotes•Unlikeotherkindsofskirts,circleskirtsarenotmadefromdifferentfrontandbackpatterns.Rather,thefrontandbackarecutinthesameway.Theycanalsobemadewithasingleseam,eliminatingfrontandbackaltogether.•Thezipperlengthshouldbe8"(20.5cm)forastand-aloneskirt.Foraskirtsewntoabodice,itshouldbe8"(20.5cm)plusthelengthofthebodicecenterbackforabackzipperorthelengthofthebodicesideseamforasidezipper.

•Somepartsofacircleskirtwillnecessarilybecutonthebias(seehereformoreaboutthebias).Thismeanstheskirtwillstretcharoundthebodybutalsodownward.It’sagoodideatohangyouruncutfabriconthebiasforafewdaysbeforesewingyourskirttoletitdoasmuchdownwardstretchingaspossible.Afteryou’vesewnyourskirt,hangitagainforacouplemoredaysbeforehemmingit.Then,puttheskirtonyourselforadressform.Youmayfindthehemisunevenasithasstretcheddownwardatthebiasportionsbutnotatthestraight-grainportions.Tomarkthehemevenly,laytheskirtonaflatsurface.Useayardsticktomeasureandmarkdown

fromthewaistthedesiredlengthplushemallowancearoundthehem.Trimthehemwhereithasstretchedbeyondthislength.

Circleskirtsworkbeautifullywithalltypesoffabrics.Averydrapeyfabricwillyieldalanguid,close-to-the-bodylook.Astifferfabricwillstandawayfromthebody,morelikeaclassic’50spoodleskirt.

draftthepatternnoteIfyouaremakingjustaskirtwithoutabodice,useyourwaistmeasurementtodrafttheskirt.Ifyouaremakingtheskirttojoinoneofthebodicesinthebook,measurethestitchingline(⅝"[1.5cm]infromthepatternedge)ofthefrontandbackbodicepatternwaistline(don’tincludetheseamallowances)andusethatforthewaistmeasurement.

FULLCIRCLESKIRT

1.Drawarectangle¼thewaistmeasurementwide(waist=fullwaistminus1"[2.5cm]tocompensateforbiasstretching)bythedesiredlength.Slashitintoequalparts,themorethebetter,almostbutnotquitethroughthewaistline.Spreadasshownontherightangleofanotherpieceofpaper.Tracethecurvedshape.Note:Thiswillresultinapatternthatis¼ofthefullskirt.

2.Foratwo-seamskirt:Mark1straightedgeasthecenterfront.Add⅝"(1.5cm)seamandhemallowancestotheotheredges.Cut2pieceswiththecenterfrontonthefabricfold.

Foraone-seamskirt(whichrequiresalargepieceoffabric):Cut2patternpiecesandtapethemtogethertoform½ofthefullpattern.Add¼"(6mm)seamallowancetothestraightedgesand⅝"(1.5cm)seamallowancetothebothwaistandhem.Cut1onthefabricfold.Thencutastraightlinefromthewaisttotheheminordertocreateaseamwherethezippercanbeinserted.

Youcanalsomakeapanelskirtfromthefull-circleskirtpattern.Createthepatternasdescribedonthispage.Dividethepatternintoequalpartswithstraightlinesfromthewaisttothehem.Slashthelines.Add⅝"(1.5cm)seamandhemallowancestoalledges.Cut4ofeachpanelfromfabric.

HALF-CIRCLESKIRT

1.Drawarectangle½thewaistmeasurementwide(waist=fullwaistminus1"[2.5cm]tocompensateforbiasstretching)bythedesiredlength.Slashintoequalparts,themorethebetter,almostbutnotquitethroughthewaistline.Spreadasshownontherightangleofanotherpieceofpaper.Tracethecurvedshape.Note:Thiswillresultinapatternthatis½ofthefullhalf-circleskirt.

2.Foratwo-seamskirt:Add⅝"(1.5cm)hemandseamallowancestoalledges.Cut2fromthefabric.

FORAONE-SEAMSKIRT:Mark1straightedgeasthecenterfront.Add⅝"

(1.5cm)seamandhemallowancestotheotheredges.Cut1withthecenterfrontonthefabricfold.

QUARTER-CIRCLESKIRT

1.Drawarectangle½thewaistmeasurementwide(waist=fullwaistminus1"[2.5cm]tocompensateforbiasstretching)bydesiredlength.Slashintoequalparts,themorethebetter,almostbutnotquitethroughthewaistline.Atthecornerofanotherpieceofpaper,foldoneedgeovertomeettheotheredge.

2.Unfoldthepaper.Spreadtheslashedpieceasshownonthe45-degreeangleformedbythefold.Tracethecurvedshape.Note:Thiswillresultinapatternthatis½ofthefullquarter-circleskirt.

3.Foratwo-seamskirt:Add⅝"(1.5cm)seamandhemallowancestoalledges.Cut2fromfabric.

Foraone-seamskirt:Mark1straightedgeascenterfrontandadd⅝"(1.5cm)seamandhemallowancestootheredges.Cut1withthecenterfrontonthefabricfold.

THREE-QUARTER-CIRCLESKIRT

1.Drawarectanglethatis¼thewaistmeasurementwide(waist=fullwaistminus1"[2.5cm]tocompensateforbiasstretching)bythedesiredlength.Slashintoequalparts,themorethebetter,almostbutnotquitethroughthewaistline.

2.Atthecornerofanotherpieceofpaper,fold1edgeovertomeettheotheredge,forminga45-degreeangle.Foldoncemoretofindthe67.5-degreeangle.

3.Unfoldthepaperandspreadasshownonthe67.5-degreeangleformedbythefold.Tracethecurvedshape.Note:Thiswillresultinapatternthatis¼ofthefullthree-quarter-circleskirt.

4.Foratwo-seamskirt:Mark1straightedgeasthecenterfront.Add⅝"(1.5cm)seamandhemallowancestootheredges.Cut2withthecenterfrontonthefabricfold.

Foraone-seamskirt(whichwillrequirealargepieceoffabric):Cut2patternpieces,tapethemtogether,andmark1straightedgeascenterfront.Add⅝"(1.5cm)seamandhemallowancestootheredges.Cut1withthecenterfrontonthefabricfold.

SEWINGINSTRUCTIONSFORALLCIRCLESKIRTS

1.Withrightsidestogether,pinandsewtheseam(s).Leavethetop8"(20.5cm)fromthewaistofoneseamopenforthezipper.Makesuretheopenseamisonthesamesideasyourbodice.Presstheseamsopen.

2.Foldtheedgeoftheskirttotheinsideby¼"(6mm)andpress.Stitchthehem⅛"(3mm)fromthefold.Trimtheseamallowanceclosetothestitching.Foldoveragainby¼"(6mm)andstitchclosetothefoldededge.Finishseamallowances,ifdesired.SeeAttachingtheSkirtforhowtosewtheskirttothebodice.

WaistbandforaStand-AloneSkirt

1.Tomakea1"(2.5cm)waistbandforastand-alonecircleskirt(oranyoftheotherskirtsinthischapter),cutastripfromyourfashionfabricthatis2"(5cm)plus1¼"(3cm)fortheseamallowanceswidebythelengthofthewaistlineofthefinishedskirtplus1"(2.5cm)forthebutton-taboverlap.

2.Presstheopenportionofthesideseamoftheskirttothewrongsideby⅝"(1.5cm)onbothsidesoftheseam.Seethispageforhowtoinsertthezipper(notshown).Inthiscase,thetopofthezipperwheretheteethendshouldbealigned⅝"(1.5cm)downfromtheskirtwaist.Thezippertapeswillendupcoveredbytheband.Presstheshortendsofthebandstriptothewrongsideby⅝"(1.5cm).Pressone

longedgetothewrongsideby⅝"(1.5cm).Aligntheunpressedrawedgeofthebandtotherawedgeofthewaistoftheskirtwithrightsidestogether.Makesurethatitispositionedsothatthebuttonoverlapisextending(withtheseamallowancefoldedin)pastthesideseamoftheskirt.Pinandstitchinplace.

3.Flipthebandovertherawedgeoftheskirt.Makesuretheband’srawedgeisfoldedunderandisalignedwiththestitchingline.Pinandstitchclosetothefoldededgeontheinsideoftheskirtandontheshortendofthetab.Makeabuttonholeinthetaboruseahook-and-eyeclosure.

THEREAREENTIREBOOKSDEVOTEDTOTHESUBJECTOFFITTINGSandalterations.Adetaileddiscussionofitisbeyondthescopeofthisbook,butIfeltabookaboutfitteddressesneededtoincludethebasics.Afterall,nomatterhowlovelythedesignis,ifthedressdoesn’tfityoucorrectly,youwon’twanttowearit.Thisprimerwillhelpyouidentifycommonfittingproblemsandshowyouhowtoalterapatterntofixthem.

Youmayknowfromyourownexperiencewithready-towearclothingorsewingpatternswhatfittingproblemsyoutendtohave.Ifso,it’sbesttoalterthepatternusingthealterationtechniquesdiscussedbeforeyoudoanythingelse.Or,ifunanticipatedproblemscomeupwhenyoumakethemuslin,youcanusethefollowingtechniquestoalterthepattern.

BASICPATTERNALTERATIONSBeforestartingyourpatternalterations,it’sagoodideatomarkallofthepatternstitchinglines⅝"(1.5cm)infromthecutedge.Measurementstakenonyourbody(wearingtheundergarmentsyouwouldwearwithadress)needtobecomparedandadjustedtothepatternasitwillbesewn;therefore,theseamallowancesneedtobeomittedfromanyandallmeasurements.

Generally,doallvertical(lengtheningandshortening)alterationsfirst.Theexceptionisthesmall/largebustadjustmentonthefrontbodice,inwhichlengthandwidthareadjustedsimultaneously.Heightdoesnotdictatewhetheragarmentneedstobelengthenedorshortened.Tallpeoplecanhavealongtorso,thereforeneedingtolengthenonlythebodiceandnottheskirt,andshortpeoplemayhavelonglegs,somayneedtoshortenthebodicewhilelengtheningtheskirt.It’sallaboutproportion.

TORSOLENGTHADJUSTMENTS

1.Placealengthofnarrowelasticaroundyourwaist,andbendfromsidetosidetogetittosettle.Yournaturalwaistishigherthanmostpeoplethink,usually3"(7.5cm)aboveyourbellybutton,andisgenerallythesmallestmeasurebetweenyourbustandyourhips.Mostpeopledon’tweartheirpantsthere,butitisaveryflatteringplaceforthewaistlineofadress.

2.Measureyourcenter-backlength,fromthenapeofyourneckstraightdowntotheelastic.Compareittothelengthofthepattern’sbodiceback,rememberingnottocounttheseamallowances.Ifthedifferenceinmeasurementsislessthan½"(13mm),you’refine.Morethanthatandyou’llwanttodrawalineperpendiculartothegrainline,acrossthebackbodice,justbelowthearmpit.Spreadoroverlapthelineevenlytoachievethecorrectbacklength.

3.Redrawlinesifneededbyblendingthepatternlinesattheoverlaporspread.Forpreliminaryfrontadjustments,youneedtolengthenorshortenthefrontbodicethesameamountasyoudidthebackbodice.

BUSTADJUSTMENTSAllstandardbodicepatternsaremadeforaB-cupbrasize.Ifyouaresmalleror

AllstandardbodicepatternsaremadeforaB-cupbrasize.IfyouaresmallerorlargerthanaBcup,and/oryourbustsitshigherorlowerthanaverage,thenyou’llwanttoadjustyourpatternbeforeyoustarttogetabetterfit.

1.Withtheelasticstillaroundyourwaist,lookinamirrorandmeasureverticallyfromyourshoulder,overthefullestpartofyourbust,anddowntoyourwaist.Thebodicefrontneedstobethislongtofitproperly.Alsonotethemeasurementalongthatline,wheretheapexofyourbust(orbustpoint,basicallyyournipple)sits.You’llneedthistomarkanaccuratebustpointonyourpattern.

2.Measurefromsideseamtosideseam,acrossthefullestpartofyourbust.Add1"(2.5cm)forwearingease.Divideinhalf(becausethepatternishalfofthefront).Alsonotethedistancefromthesideseamtothebustpoint.

3.Onthefrontbodicepattern,locatethepattern’sbustpointbydrawingstraightlinesthroughthecenterofeachdart.Wheretheyintersectisthepattern’sbustpoint.Markthebustpointonthepatternandmarkthedottedlinesaspictured.Cutalongeachoftheselines,leavingonlyasmallhingeatthearmholeand,forthelargebustadjustment,alsoatthebustpointtopivotthepieces.Forasmallbustadjustmentcutthroughthebustpoint.

4.Workingonaflatsurface,spreadoroverlapthepatternpiecesasshownuntilthelengthandwidthmeasurementsyoutookearlierareachieved.Keepthewaistlineofthebodiceevenandthecenter-frontlineeven.Ageneralrulewillbetoincrease/decreaselengthandwidthabout½"(13mm)perchangeincupsize.Forinstance,aDcupwilladdabout1"(2.5cm)inlengthandwidth.Tapethealteredpatterninplace.

5.Markthecorrectbustpointonthepatternasyoumeasuredonyourselfearlier,boththeheight(asmeasuredfromyourshoulder)andthewidth(asmeasuredfromthesideseam).Marknewwaistandbustdartpointsasfollows:Thepointofthewaistdartwillbe1"(2.5cm)directlybelowyournewbustpoint.Thesidedartpointwillbe1"(2.5cm)awayfromyourbustpoint,inthedirectionofthedart(tothesideandslightlydown).Connectthesenewpointstotheendofthelegsoftheoriginaldarts,whichhavenowspread(forlargercups)oroverlapped(forsmallercups).

Redrawpatternlinessmoothingoutanybumpsorjagscausedbythealteration.

6.Ifthebustpointishigherthanitsoriginalposition,redrawthedartstopointtowardthehigherpoint.

Incaseswherethecorrectedbustpointislowerthanthesidedartendpoints,thesidedartendpointswillalsohavetobelowered.Measurethedistancethatthebustpointwaslowered.Lowertheendpointsofthedartlegsthesamedistance,takingcaretolowerthemvertically.Inotherwords,movetheentiresidedartdownward,notjustthetip,onthespread-outoroverlappedpattern.Thiskeepsthewidthofthefrontbodiceconsistent.Drawinthenewdartlegs,loweringthetipofthewaistdartthesameamountthebustdartwasloweredonthespreadoroverlappedpattern.

7.Tocompletethepattern,redrawthesideseambyconnectingthenewdartlegswiththearmholeandthewaistlineforthespreadoroverlappedpattern.

NECKADJUSTMENTSIfthenecklineistootightortooloose,adjustthepatternaccordingly.

1.Measurearoundyourneckwhereyou’dlikethefinishednecklinetosit.Dividethemeasurementinhalfasyouareworkingwithhalfthepattern.

2.Markthestitchinglinesfortheneckandshoulderonboththefrontandbackbodice,⅝"(1.5cm)infromthecuttingedge.Lineuptheshoulderstitchinglinesandtapeinplace.Don’tworryabouttheshoulderdart.Measurethestitchinglinefortheneckbyholdingasoft,flexibletapemeasureonitsside(thatis,standinguponitsthinedge),notflat,aroundtheneckstitchingline.Holditsotheincrementsareagainstthepatternforthemostaccuratemeasure.

3.Forevery1"(2.5cm)differencebetweenthestitchinglineandthetargetmeasure,movethepattern’sneckline¼"(6mm)atthecenterfrontandattheshoulderline,eitherin,towardthenecktomakeitsmaller,orout,awayfromthenecktomakeitbigger.Forexample,ifyouwanttoincreasetheneck1"(2.5cm),you’llmovethecenter-frontpointdown¼"(6mm)andtheshoulderlineout¼"(6mm).Keepthecenterbackthesame.Redrawtheneckstitchingline,anddouble-checkthepatternmeasure.Addthe⅝"(1.5cm)seamallowancetothestitchingline.Adjustagainifneeded.

SHOULDERADJUSTMENTS

SHOULDERSLOPECORRECTIONThismethodwillcorrectforwideornarrowshoulders,aswellassquareorslopingshoulders.

1.Haveafriendmeasureacrossyourback,fromshoulderpointtoshoulderpoint,wheresleeveseamswouldsit.Thisisyourshoulderwidth.Dividethisby2,sincethepatternisforhalfoftheback.Then,withtheelasticaroundyourwaist,haveafriendmeasurefromyourwaistatcenterback,toyourshoulderpoint,whereasleeveseamwouldsit.Thisistheshoulderslope.

2.Compareyourshoulderwidth(thatyou’vedividedby2)tothebodiceback,omittingtheseamallowances.Ifyou’rewithin¼"(6mm),you’llbefine.Ifnot,you’llwanttocorrectforshoulderwidth.Dothisbeforecorrectingforshoulderslope.Drawahorizontalguideline,paralleltothewaist,throughtheshoulderpoint.Startingatcenterback,measurealongthislinetoyourtargetshoulderwidth.Makeamarkontheline.Next,drawaverticallinethroughyourmark,keepingitperpendiculartothewaistlinetomarkthewiderornarrowershoulder.

3.Startingatthewaistatcenterback,markwhereyourshoulder-slopemeasurecrossestheverticalline.Thisisyournewshoulderpoint.Notehowfaraboveorbelowtheoriginalshoulderpointthisis,asyouwillneedtoadjustthearmholethissameamount.Drawyournewshoulderlinefromthispointtotheneck.

4.Findthemidpointofyournewshoulderline.Thiswillbethecenterofyourshoulderdart.Atthemidpoint,drawalineperpendiculartoyourshoulderlinethatisthesamelengthastheoriginaldart.Thisisyourdartcenter,andtheendisyourdartpoint.Measurethewidthoftheoriginaldart.Markthedartwidthontheshoulderlinewiththeperpendicularlineinthecenter.Drawinyourdartlegs,connectingthesemarkstotheendoftheperpendicularline.

5.Correctthearmholeasneeded:

Ifyourshoulderwidthwasadjusted,butnottheshoulderslope,redrawyourarmhole,startingattheshoulder,andblendbackintotheexistingarmholeaboutmidwaydownthecurveforthewiderornarrowershoulder.

Ifyourshoulderslopewasalsochanged,drawaverticalguidelineattheouterpointofthearmhole/sideseam,perpendiculartothewaist.Markanewpointalongthisguidelineupordown—thesameamountthatyouraisedorloweredtheshoulderpoint.Thiskeepsthearmholethesamesize.Toredrawthisline,trytomimicthebottomofthecurvethroughthemidpointofthecurve.Thenblendtoyournewshoulderpointforawiderornarrowershoulder.

6.Applythesamechangestothefrontbodice:Drawahorizontalguidelinethroughthefrontbodiceshoulderpoint.Movetheshoulderpointinoroutthesameamountthatyoumovedthebackshoulder.Drawaverticallinethroughthisnewpoint.Nowraiseorlowertheshoulderpointthesameamountthatyouraisedorlowereditin

theback,tocorrectforshoulderslope.Connectthismarktotheoriginalneckline.Redrawthearmholeasinstep5.

7.Whenyouchangethearmholeonthebodice,youthenmustchangethearmholeonthesleevesoitstillfitsintothebodice.Forshoulderwidthadjustments,youmayormaynotneedtoadjustthearmhole,dependingonthechanges.Measuretheoriginalarmholestitchinglinesonthebackbodice.Nowmeasureyournewarmholeonyourbackbodice,alongthestitchinglines.Thedifferencebetweenthetwomeasurementsistheamountthatyouwillraiseorlowerthesleevecap.Ifyournewarmholeisbiggerthantheoriginalarmhole,youwillraisethesleevecapbythatsameamount.Ifyournewarmholeissmallerthantheoriginalarmhole,youwilllowerthesleevecapbythatamount.

ROUNDEDSHOULDERSForfigureswithroundedshoulders,thereareoftengapingarmholesintheback,andwhenviewedfromtheside,theshouldersareforwardfromtheneckandthebackismoreprominentthanthefront.

1.Haveafriendmeasurefromthecreaseinthefleshabovethearmpit,acrossyourback,tothecreaseaboveyourotherarmpit.Haveyourfriendtakethesamemeasurementacrossyourfront.

2.Ifthefrontmeasurementis1½"(3.8cm)orlessthantheback,nochangeisneeded.Fordifferencesgreaterthan1½"(3.8cm),makethefollowingcorrections:Onthebackbodice,drawahorizontalguidelinethroughthecenterofthearmholecurve.Thenextendthecenterlineofthedartthroughthehorizontalline.Cutalongbothoftheselines,leavingasmallhingeofpaperattheintersection.Placenewpaperbehindthedart,asitwillspreadandyou’llwantsomethingtotapeitto.

3.Takeyourbackmeasurementandsubtractthefrontmeasurement.Dividethisnumberby2togetthewidthoftheshoulderdartneededtoshapethebackproperly.Forinstance,ifthebackmeasureis15"(38.5cm)andthefrontmeasureis13"(33cm),then15minus13is2,and2dividedby2is1;therefore,thedartneedstobe1"(2.5cm)wide.Rotatetheoutershoulderpieceofthepatterndownwarduntiltheshoulderdartisthetargetwidth,overlappingthecutatthearmhole.Tapeinplace.Usingtheoriginaldartlength,markanewpointnearthecenterofwherethepaperhasspreadandconnectittothedartlegs.Redrawthearmholetosmoothouttheoverlap.Measuretheamountthatthepatternisnowoverlappedatthearmhole.

4.Nowthefront.Astheshouldersmoveforward,thearmholeinthefrontalsoneedstomoveforward.Onthebodicefront,drawahorizontalguidelineacrossthecenterofthearmhole.Alongtheguideline,markinward,towardthecenterfront,theamountoftheoverlapyoumeasuredontheback.Redrawthearmholebyblendingintotheshoulderpointandalongthebottomcurve.Theresultingcurvewillhavealower,morepronouncedcurvethanbefore.

5.Becausewechangedtheshapeofthearmhole,wewanttochangetheshapeofthesleevessothattheywillstillfittogethernicelyandhangproperlyonthebody.Onyoursleevepattern,drawahorizontallinemidwaythroughthecapbetweenthefrontnotchmark(onenotch)tothebacknotchmarks(twonotches).Draw2morehorizontalguidelines,1touchingthetopofthecapand1atthebeginningoftheunderarmseam.Usingtheoverlapmeasurementtakenpreviously,youwilldecreasethesleevecapintheback,increasethesleevecapinthefront,andmovethe

shoulderpoint(notchatthetopoftheshouldercurve)forward.Redrawthelines,blendingintothelowercurvesandthetopofthesleevecap.

SLEEVEADJUSTMENTS

SHORTENORLENGTHENSLEEVES

1.Measureyourarmfromtheshoulderpointtothewristandcomparetothepattern.Drawahorizontalguidelinethroughthesleeve,keepingitperpendiculartothegrainline.Cutalongthisline.

2.Spreadthepatternoveranotherpieceofpapertolengthenitoroverlaptoshortenuntilthetargetlengthisreached;tape.Donotincludeseamallowancesinthemeasurement.Becarefultokeepthegrainaligned.Redrawtheseamlines(trueup)smoothingoutanyjags.

UPPERARMCORRECTION

1.Measureyourbicepatitsfullestpart.Add2"(5cm)forwearingease;youmayaddmoreforpersonalpreference,butinwovenfabric,a2"(5cm)minimumisneeded.Thisisthetotalwidththatyoursleeveshouldbe.Alsonotehowfardownfromtheshoulderseamyoutookthismeasurement.

2.Onyoursleevepattern,drawthefollowingguidelines:(a)ahorizontalguidelineatthelevelwhereyoutookyourbicepmeasurement(fromtheshoulderpoint);(b)averticallinefromtheshoulder-pointnotchthroughthehem,and(c)ahorizontallinethroughtheendpointsoftheshouldercurve.Leavingsmallhingesofpaperrightatthestitchinglines,cutalongalllines,exceptthebicepguideline.

3.Spreadthepatterntoaddwidthoroverlaptoreducewidthuntilthetargetmeasurementisreached(don’tincludetheseamallowances)alongthehorizontalbicepline.Tapeinplace.Redrawtosmooththesleeve-capcurveandredrawthehemsothatit’sstraight.Redrawthegrainline.

OVERALLARMCIRCUMFERENCECORRECTION

1.Takebicepmeasurefollowingstep1ofUpperArmCorrection.Alsotakeaforearmmeasurementatthefullestpartofyourforearm.Addatleast1½"(3.8cm)ofwearingeaseforthismeasure.Alsonotehowfardownthearm(fromtheshoulderpoint)youtookthismeasurement.

2.Onyoursleevepattern,drawhorizontallinesthatcorrespondtoyourbicepandforearm.Thendrawahorizontallinethroughtheendpointsoftheshouldercurve.Lastly,drawaverticallinefromtheshoulder-pointnotchdownthroughthehem.Leavinghingesattheshoulderpointandthesleeveendpoints,cutalongtheselast2lines.

3.Spreadthepatterntowidenoroverlaptoreducewidth,checkingalongthebiceplineandforearmlineforthetargetmeasurement.It’sfineifeitherthebiceporforearmmeasuresarebiggerthanthetarget,justnotbothofthem.Tapeinplace.Redrawtosmooththesleeve-capcurve.Straightenthehemifnecessary.Double-checkthelengthofthesleeveandadjustifneeded,asinstructedabove.

SKIRTADJUSTMENTS

SKIRTLENGTHADJUSTMENTSIt’sbesttolengthenorshortenaskirtfromthemiddleofthepatterninorderto

It’sbesttolengthenorshortenaskirtfromthemiddleofthepatterninordertopreserveanyhemdetails(likeakickpleat)andthefullnessinthehem.

1.Measurefromyourwaisttothelengthyouwouldliketheskirt.Comparetothepattern.Drawalineperpendiculartothegrainlineataboutthehiplinelevel.

2.Cutandspreadthepatterntolengthenit,oroverlaptoshorten.

3.Tapeinplace,andredrawthepatternlinessmoothingthemoutasyoudo.Don’tforgettomakethesameadjustmentonbothfrontandbackskirtpatternpieces.

SWAYBACKADJUSTMENT

1.Ifpostureissuchthattheback(inprofile)hasasignificantarch,thereoftenisripplingatthecenter-backwaistwhenwearingdressesorskirts.Forthisalteration,placeelasticsnuglyaroundthewaistlineandparalleltothefloor(whenviewedfromtheside),andhaveafriendmeasurethedistancefromthecenter-backwaistattheelastictothefloor.Thenmeasurefromtheelasticatthecenter-frontwaisttothefloor.Thebackmeasurementwillbegreaterthanthefrontmeasurementwithaswayback.Subtractthefrontmeasurementfromtheback.Thisistheamountoftheswaybackadjustment.

2.Measuredownalongthecenter-backseamoftheskirtpatterntheamount

neededforadjustment.Toredrawthewaistline,startatthecenter-backwaistanddrawaslightcurvethatisperpendiculartothecenter-backseamatthestartandcurvesuptojointheoriginalwaistatthesideseam.

3.Thenewlydrawncurvewillhavecrossedthebackdart,whichwillnowneedtobeenlargedtomaintaintheoriginalwaistsize.Ontheoriginalwaistseam,measurefromthecenterbacktothefirstdartleg.Nowmeasurealongthenewwaistseam,startingfromthecenterback,andmarkthisfirstmeasurement.Ontheoriginalwaistline,startingfromthesideseam,measureovertotheotherdartlegandmarkthismeasurementonthenewwaistline.Thespaceleftinbetweenyourmarkswillbethenewdart.Drawanewcenterlineforthedartcenteredbetweenthemarks,thesamelengthastheoriginaldart,andperpendiculartothenewwaistline.Drawyournewdartlegs,connectingthemarkstotheendofthecenterdartline.

4.Takeyouroriginalswaybackadjustmentfromstep1andadditontothehematcenterbacktocorrectthehemlength.Redrawyournewhemline,blendingbacktotheoriginallineatthesideseam.

HIPSORTHIGHSCORRECTION

1.Measureallthewayaroundthefullestpartofyourhipsorthighs(whicheverarefuller).Add2"(5cm)forwearingease.Divideby4(sinceeachpatternpieceisonefourthofthefullpattern).Alsomeasurehowfardownfromyourwaistthismeasurementwastaken.Onboththefrontandbackskirtpieces,measurethesame

amountdownfromthewaistanddrawahorizontallinetorepresentyourhipline.Then,startingfromcenterfrontorcenterback,measureacrosstoyourtargetwidthandmarkinsidetheoriginalsideseamforasmallerhiporoutsideforalargerhip.Remembernottoincludethe⅝"(1.5cm)seamallowancewhenyoudothis.

2.Redrawthesideseamandblendthenewhippointtothewaistseamandtothehem.Addthe⅝"(1.5cm)seamallowancetoyournewsideseam.

SEATCORRECTION

1.Measurefromsideseamtosideseamacrossthefullestpartofyourseat.Add1"(2.5cm)forwearingeaseanddivideby2.Thisisyourtargetmeasurement.Alsomeasurehowfardownfromyourwaistyoutookthismeasurement.Andmeasurefromthecenterbacktothefirstdartlegalongthewaistlineofthepattern.

2.Onthebackskirtpattern,measuredownfromthewaistthesameamountyoumeasuredonyourselfinstep1.Drawahorizontallinetobeyournewhip(seat)lineatthislevel.Alsodrawaverticallinethroughthecenterofthedarttothehem.Cutallthewayalongthisverticalline.

3.Spreadoroverlaptheskirtpattern,keepingthegrainlinesstraight,untilthetargetmeasurementisreachedalongthehipline.Tapeinplace.

4.Forasmallseat:Ifthedartlegsareatleast½"(13mm)apart,useadartlengthof3½"(9cm)measuredthroughthecenterofthedartperpendiculartothewaist,anddrawinnewlegs.

Ifthedarthasclosedoroverlapped,youwillneedtoputinadartandaddlengthtothewaistlinetoaccommodatethenewdart.Usingtheoriginalmeasurementofthepatternwaistline(omittingseamallowancesandthedart)measureandmarkthisdistancealongyourwaistline.Nowadd¾"(2cm).Blendthisintotheoriginalhipline.Tomakethenewdart,makeamarkonthewaistlinethesamedistancefromthecenterbackasthefirstdart-legmeasurementyoutookinstep1.Drawa3½"(9cm)lineperpendiculartothewaistline⅜"(1cm)awayfromthemarktowardthesideseam.Makeanothermark⅜"(1cm)awayfromtheperpendicularlinetowardthesideseam.Connectthemarkstotheendoftheperpendicularlinetoformyournewdart.

Foralargeseat:Findthemidpointofyourdart.Fromthere,measure6"(15cm)downward,perpendiculartothewaistline,andmakeamark.Connectthedartlegstothispointtoformyournewdart.

T

acknowledgmentshank you to my husband for supporting me through another book! I know itwasn’teasy,sothankyou,mylove.

Thank you to my children, Max, Harry, and Ava, for being wonderful younghumansandforbeingsomuchfuntojusthangoutwithandtalkto.Iloveyoulikecrazyandamsoproudofeachofyou.

Thankyoutomymother,LindaWhelan,andmyfather,TomWhelan,foralwayssupportingme.Loveyoubothsomuch.

ThankyoutomyuncleBarryBecker,atechnical-illustrationsmachine!Justafewmore,Ipromise.Loveyou,ub.

ThankyoutoBobandAllenforyourpatience,professionalism,andgoodcheer.Icould not have completed this successfully without you! Thank you both so verymuch.

Huge,giantthankstoBarbieMcCormick,couturedressmakerandexpertpatterndesigner extraordinaire. The lady with the answers! Thank you, Barbie, forabsolutelyeverything.Yougavemetheconfidencetocompletethisproject.Ifyou’relookingtohaveaspecialcustomdressdesignedandmade,Barbieistheladytotalkto.

ThankyoutoSewBoise.Visitthematsewboise.com.Very special thanks to alteration and dressmaking expert SandraHutton of the

Seamstress for making all those dresses (!), for helping me style the models sobeautifully,andforyourmoralsupportandassistancewiththeshoot.Iwillalwaysbegratefultoyouforyourhelpwithhisproject.ContactSandraat(717)243-0753forexpertalterationsanddressmaking.

ThankyoutoColleenMohydeformakingthisprojecthappenandkeepingit(andme)goingthroughtherockyparts!

Thank you tomy editors, CaitlinHarpin andEmmaBrodie, for your help andpatienceinmakingthisprojectcometofruitioninabeautifulway.

Thankyou to the beautiful (inside and out)modelswhobrought the dresses tolife.Icouldn’thaveaskedforamorelovelyorprofessionalgroupofwomentoworkwith.

ThankyoutoSilva!

fabricresourcesFabric.com

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abouttheauthorTanyaWhelaniswellknownforherfresh,vintagemodernstyle.HerbestsellingfabricsandsewingpatternsareproducedanddistributedinternationallybyFree

SpiritFabrics,asubsidiaryofCoats&Clark.HerscrapbookingandpaperdesignsaredistributedthroughTrimcraft.Herworkisfeaturedfrequentlyinmagazines,

includingMarthaStewartLiving,RomanticHomes,QuiltsandMore,SewNews,andMollieMakesaswellontheblogsDecor8,SewMamaSew,TrueUp,andCraftzine.ShelivesintheUnitedStateswithherhusbandandthreechildren.

VisitTanyaatgrandrevivaldesign.com.

PATTERNSBelowarelinkstodownloadablepatternsforthedressesinthisbook.Includedinthedownloadareinstructionsforprintingthemoutusingapersonalprinter.

Sheet1Front(http://rhlink.com/smd002)

Sheet1Back(http://rhlink.com/smd001)

Sheet2Front(http://rhlink.com/smd004)

Sheet2Back(http://rhlink.com/smd003)

Sheet3Front(http://rhlink.com/smd006)

Sheet3Back(http://rhlink.com/smd005)

indexA-lineskirt

wrapvariationAfterMidnightDressAlençonlacealterations.SeefittingsandalterationsarmholecurverulerAudreyHighTeaDressAutumninNewYorkDress

bandcollarbastingbatistefabricBeachBonfireDressbellsleeve

splitbias-cut

fabricsfornotesonskirt,5.1,5.2skirt,circleskirt,modifications

blockingafabricBlueSkiesDressboatneckbodices,2.1,2.2.Seealsofittingsandalterations;specificdresses

all-in-onecap-sleeve,4.1,4.2basicbutton-down(shirtwaist)cowlneckdartmodificationsempirewaistvariation

halterhalter,gatheredhalter,gathereddartsandyokevariationmock-wrap,2.1,2.2off-the-shouldervariationone-shouldervariationsprincessstraplessyokevariation,simple

boningbroadclothfabricBrocadeHighballDressBrunchinParisDressbuttonholes

capsleeveall-in-onecap-sleeve,4.1,4.2

chalkchallisfabricchambrayfabricChantillylacecharmeusefabricchiffonfabriccircleskirt

narrowhemfornotesonpanelskirtfrompatternwaistbandforastand-aloneskirt

CityChicLBDcollars

bandcrafting

forbutton-downbodiceinterfacingJohnnymandarinPeterPan

seamallowanceforcottonfabric,1.1,1.2

preshrinkingpretreating(cleaning)

cowlneckbodicecrepefabriccrepedechinefabriccurves,clippingandnotching

dart,1.1,2.1dartmodifications

addingfullnessgatheredatthenecklineaddingfullnessgatheredatthewaistcreatingdarttuckscurveddartsdividingadartbetweenthewaistandthearmholedividingadartintwoatthenecklinedividingadartthreewaysempirewaistvariationgathereddartswithayokeraisingdartssemi-fittedblouseconversionshiftingdartsshiftingdartstocenterfrontshiftingdartstothearmholesshiftingdartstothesideseams,shoulder,ornecklineturningdartsintogathersunfittedblouseconversion

Day-to-EveningSheathdenimfabricDianeWraparoundDressdirndlskirtdottedSwissfabricDottyforYouDressdressforms

customizing,1.1,1.2dressmaker’spencildressmakingbasics

dressmakingbasicsadviceforbeginnersassemblingadressattachingtheskirttothebodiceboningbuttonholesclippingandnotchingcurvesdressforms,1.1,1.2facing,1.1,1.2facingvs.liningfinishingtheseamallowancesgradingtheseamsinterfacingliningsmakingamuslin(toile)patternmarkingterms,1.1,1.2patternusepinningsewing-specificinstructionsstitches,typesofunderliningunderstitchingzippers

dressmakingchecklistDupionisilk

empirewaistbodicevariationeyeletfabricEyeletSundress

fabrics,Seealsospecificdresses;specificfabricsblockingortrueingforcasualdressesdrape,body,andweightforeveningdressesfiberfiber,naturalvs.syntheticfibercontent,wheretofindonbolt

forofficedressesonoroffgrainpreparingforsewing,1.1,1.2preshrinkingpretreating(cleaning)quality,1.1,1.2“rightside,wrongside,”shoppingfortextureweave,1.1,1.2

facings,1.1,1.2,1.3interfacingfor

faillefabricFarmers’MarketFrockFirstAnniversaryDress

gatheredhalterforFirstDayattheOfficeDressfittingsandalterations

basicpatternalterationsbustadjustmentshiporthighscorrectionmuslinforneckadjustmentsoverallarmcircumferencecorrectionroundedshouldersseatcorrectionshoulderslopecorrectionskirtlengthadjustmentssleeves,shortenorlengthswaybackadjustmenttorsolengthadjustmentsupperarmcorrection

Frenchcurvefull-hemskirt

gatheredvariation

gabardinefabric

gathers/gatheringaddingfullnessgatheredatthenecklineaddingfullnessgatheredatthewaistfull-hemskirt,variationgathereddartswithayokehalterhalter,gathereddartsandyokevariationturningdartsintogathers

gauzefabricgeorgettefabricgrainlineGrecianGoddessDress

habotai(Chinasilk)halterbodice

gatheredgathereddartsandyokevariation

hemsallowanceforblindhemstitchmachinehemmingnarrow,foracircleskirt

hipcurveruler

interfacingofcollarsnonwovenfusiblesew-inwoven

iron(steam)

Johnnycollar

kimonosleeveknits

ponte,1.1,1.2,1.3sergerfor

sewingtipsweave

lace,Seealsospecifictypes“eyelashes”onunderliningfor

lawnfabriclinenfabric

pretreating(cleaning)linings,1.1,1.2,1.3

addingaskirttoalinedbodiceassemblingalinedbodicewithsleevesandabackzipperassemblingalinedbodicewithsleevesandasidezipperassemblingalinedsleevelessbodicewithabackzipperassemblingalinedsleevelessbodicewithasidezipperinterfacingfor“rightside,wrongside,”

LsquareorTsquare

MaggieRoseDressmandarincollarmatelasséfabricMinimalistWeddingGownMintDreamsDressmock-wrapbodice,2.1,2.2ModernApronDressmuslin(toile),makingamuslinfabric

necklines,SeealsofittingsandalterationsboatneckscoopsweetheartvariationV-neck,deepV-neck,high

needlesforhand-sewingNightattheOperaGown

notches,1.1,1.2,1.3clippingandnotchingcurves

off-the-shouldervariationbodiceone-shoulderbodiceorganzafabric

patternsalterationsof,basicchoosingasizecuttingandkeepinghowtotakeyourmeasurementspatternmarkingterms,1.1,1.2preparingsizechart

PerfectDayforaPicnicDressPeterPancollarpinkingshearspinningpins/pincushionpiquéfabricpleatedskirt

box-pleatvariationpontefabric,1.1,1.2,1.3poplinfabricprincessbodiceprincessseamspuffedsleeve

shoulderonly

quilting-weightfabric

rayonfabricRigilenerulersandmeasuringdevices,1.1,1.2

safetypins

satinfabric,1.1,1.2scissors

goodfabricshearspinkingshears

scoopneckseam

allowancesallowances,forbias-cutskirtsallowances,forcollarsclippingandnotchingcurvesfinishingtheseamallowancesgradingtheseams,1.1,1.2pressingopen,1.1,1.2princessseams

seamripperSecretGardenPartyDressseersuckerfabricserger,1.1,1.2sewingmachine

invisible-zipperpresserfootfor,1.1,1.2overlockstitch,presserfootforserger,1.1,1.2

shantungfabricshirtwaistshortsleeveshrinkagesilkfabric,1.1,1.2.SeealsospecifictypesSimpleSoireeDressSimplyChicDresssix-panelskirtsizechartSkaterPonteDressskirts,Seealsofittingsandalterations

A-lineA-linewrapvariationbias-cutbias-cutmodifications

circledirndlfull-hemfull-hemgatheredmodificationspleatedpleated,box-pleatvariationsix-panelstraighttwelve-panelwaistbandforastand-aloneskirtwrap

sleeves,Seealsofittingsandalterationsbellbell,splitcapsleevecapsleeve,all-in-one,4.1,4.2kimonolongmodificationspuffedpuffed,shoulderonlyshortthree-quarter

SodaShopDressspandexstitches,1.1,1.2

basting,1.1,1.2blindhemstitch,1.1,1.2handstitchesmachinehemming,1.1,1.2machinestitchesoverlockstitchsergerstitchstaystitchingstraightstitch,1.1,1.2topstitch

zigzag,1.1,1.2stitchinglinestraightskirtStudio54HalterGownSummerFridaySheathsweetheartneckline

variation

taffetafabricflocked

tailor’schalktailor’shamtapetapemeasure(soft)threadthreadcountthree-quartersleevetoolsandsuppliestopstitchtracingpaperTresBrooklynKnitDresstrueingafabrictwelve-panelskirttwillfabric

underliningunderstitching,1.1,1.2

Valentine’sDayDanceDressVintage-StyleRockabillyDressV-neckneckline

deepversionhighversion

voilefabric

weavebias

crosswisegrain(weft)straightofgrain(warp)

woolfabric,1.1,1.2pretreating(cleaning)

wrapskirtA-linewrapvariation

yardstickyoke(simple)variationbodice

ZigzagShirtdresszippers

installing,1.1,1.2interfacingforinvisible-zipperpresserfoot,1.1,1.2forlinedgarments,1.1,1.2,1.3,1.4,1.5

ZooeyFit-and-FlairDress