dressmaking grade 9
TRANSCRIPT
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Dressmaking Grade 9 Quarter 1: Module 1: Week 1-2
Republic of the Philippines Department of Education
PUBLIC TECHNICAL - VOCATIONAL
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SPTVE Dressmaking Grade 9
Quarter 1: Module 1 Week 1-2
PLANNING GARMENT DESIGN
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WHAT IS THIS MODULE ABOUT?
This module covers the knowledge, skills and attitudes required in drafting
and cutting basic/block patterns for ladies casual apparel.
WHAT WILL YOU LEARN?
At the end of this module, you should be able to: a.
plan garment design;
b. take client’s body measurements;
c. draft basic/block pattern; and
d. manipulate and cut final pattern.
WHAT DO YOU ALREADY KNOW?
Pre-test
Let us find out how much you already know. Read and understand the
items being described below. Choose the letter of the correct answer and
write it in your quiz notebook.
1. It refers to the company’s standard operating procedure.
a. determining garment costs
b. measuring body parts
c. Performing sewing
d. all of the above
2. It is a design created in garment by adding interesting
accessories.
a. decorative design
b. garment design
c. structural design
d. all of the above
3. This kind of pattern has all the allowances needed.
a. basic
b. block
c. commercial
d. style
4. This is another term for sports collar.
a. continuous collar
b. convertible collar
c. flat collar
d. Mandarin collar
5. This is the center of interest in a given garment.
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a. balance
b. emphasis
c. harmony
d. proportion
6. This measurement is taken around the arm.
a. armgirth
b. armhole
c. armscye
d. forearm
7. This line on a dress that adds height to the figure.
a. curve line
b. diagonal line
c. horizontal line
d. vertical line
8. This is called the main line of the garment.
a. design
b. fabric
c. pattern
d. silhouette
9. This is the style that instantly captures the attention of the
consumer.
a. design
b. fad
c. fashion
d. look
10. These are the kind of design wherein the parts of the garment are
cut and put together.
a. structural
b. formal
c. decorative
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LESSON 1
PLANNING GARMENT DESIGN
WHAT IS THIS LESSON ABOUT?
The lesson deals with the client’s job requirements in accordance with
standard operating procedure such as the preparation of garment design. It
also includes selection of designs and fabrics and incorporation of special
needs of clients in the design based on procedure.
WHAT WILL YOU LEARN?
At the end of the lesson, you should be able to:
1. determine job requirements in accordance with the standard operating
procedure;
2. prepare garment design in accordance with the client’s requirements;
3. discuss and select design and fabric in accordance with the client’s
specifications; and
4. incorporate the special needs of client in the design based on the
procedure.
Words to study Design – the arrangement of elements of art and principles of
design. Fabrics – material of which a garment is made. Style – design created for a product in an effort to appeal to long
term criteria of what is beautiful or socially correct. Fashion – a currently accepted s tyle of the moment. Style of
dressing that is prevalent among a group of persons at a given time.
Fad – a style that has captured the attention of the consumers instantaneously and briefly.
Look – is the sum total of the elements which helps in determining the styles.
Couture – signifies expensive, high quality originally designed and cu stom made dresses for private clientele.
Couturier – a male or female designer of a couture house. Silhouette – outline contour of a garment.
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The process of making a garment is an orderly profession. It starts
from the choice of design, pattern, and fabric up to the construction of the
garment. Professional dressmakers divide the process into logical step-
cutting-basting, constructing and finishing so they know exactly how long it
will take to make a given garment.
Standard Operating Procedure in Garment Designing
• Determine the Customer Job Requirements. This refers to the
specifications given by the customers as to how her wardrobe would
look.
• Determine Garment Cost. Cost of materials and supplies for the
customer’s wardrobe including the sewing service fee are estimated.
• Measure Body Part. This involves taking of customer’s body
measurement.
• Draft Various Pattern. Pre-construction will be done through pattern
drafting.
• Prepare Materials and Machines. Gathering materials and setting up
of sewing machines are done according to the job requirements.
• Perform Sewing .This is the procedure in constructing the garment.
• Perform Finishing Touches. It is the selection and application of
appropriate finishes in the pre-constructed garment where first fitting
is done.
• Check Quality of Finished Product. It is the stage in the garment
construction, which involves trimming of excess threads, pressing and
proper packaging. This is where final fitting is being done.
Garment Design for Different Ladies’ Apparel
Many persons are particular about the clothes they wear. For
instance, most professionals strive to be well-dressed. They are conscious of
what they wear for they believe that the clothes they wear will spell out
success in their field of work. Every one should develop good taste in the
choice of clothes. This means that the person should be able to choose
clothes that are becoming to her and appropriate for different occasions.
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A designer should realize that not all styles that are in vogue or
popular in the fashion world are the best styles. Dress designing should
consider the individuality and personality of the person.
Kinds of Design in Clothing
There are two kinds of design in Garment Designing that sometimes vary
from season to season. Some seasons are heavy on decorative details and
trims, and other seasons are without adornment. The changes from one
season to another on decorative and structural details should be monitored
closely. These designs are:
1. Structural Concept of Design. It encompasses the over-all
construction of a dress, its shape and all the details involved in
pattern-making construction and the sewing construction of the
dress, such as darts, seams, pleats and tucks.
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CUT
Ladies basic dress is composed of different designs and these designs
have different elements and principles. The elements of color, lines, form or
shape, space and texture are all present in a casual dress.
The dress cut was composed of structural lines. Therefore, these
encompass the structural concept of design. Here are the examples of cut
which the dress may vary:
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2. Decorative Concept of Design. It involves the addition of decorative
trims that includes buttons, braids, embroideries, bias tapes, beads,
sequins, ribbons, etc. on a dress.
LADIES’ CASUAL DRESS
Casual dresses are flattering and comfortable. These clothes may be
of any combination of blouse, skirts, shorts and pants. Full dresses may
also be used as casual dress.
BLOUSE
Blouse is a woman’s loose outer garment from the neck down to the waist.
It usually fits at the waistline or at times tucked into the skirts or pants.
There are several types of blouses as seen in the figures:
1. Blouse with opening in front and with or without collar.
2. Blouse with opening at the back with or without collar.
3. Blouses without sleeves.
4. Blouses with straps over the shoulder.
5. Blouses that are bare over the shoulders.
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SKIRT
A skirt is another kind of free-hanging garment extending from the
waist down.
There are several types of skirts:
1. The fitted skirt and straight skirt
2. The gored skirt
3. The balloon (circular) skirt
4. The pleated skirt
5. Gathered or shirred skirt
6. Layered skirt
7. Wrapped around skirt
8. Yoke skirt or Combination skirt
9. Culottes skirt (a combination of short and skirt)
10. A-line skirt
1 2 3 4 5
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PANTS
People of different gender and age usually use pants. They are usually
made of cotton, twill, gabardine and linen fabrics. It has different lengths
and styles. Learn the terminology for the different pant lengths and styles.
Styles of Pants
10 7 9 6 8
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Cullotes
Harem
Pants
Gaucho
Zouave Pants
Palazzo
Knickers
Toreador Pants
Jeans
Trousers
Stirrup
Pants
Square Pants
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ELEMENTS OF DESIGN
1. Line creates a visual dimension of length
and width. When lines meet, space is
enclosed and a shape is defined. Lines
direct the eyes to a certain path of vision,
or could draw the eyes away from an
undesirable area of the body.
There are two kinds of lines in garments:
a. The directional line such as vertical,
horizontal, diagonal, checkered, broken
and curved. These affect the height and
size of an individual. Lines are serving
as clothing designs like the art of
printing flowers, dots and others on
fabric.
b. Structural lines are found on
necklines, armholes, hemlines, darts,
side seams, sleeves, collars, tucks and
pleats of garments.
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2. Color is a radiant energy loosely termed light that produces
sensation in our eyes. The color of the dress easily attracts th
client’s attention and becomes her basis in choosing her apparel.
a. Hue is the other name for color. It is the particular shade of
color that differentiates one from another.
1. Primary colors
are red, blue and
yellow. They are
the basic colors
where different
colors originated.
2. Secondary colors
are combinations
of primary colors
such that yellow
and blue produces
green, red and
blue produces
violet, red and
yellow produces
orange.
3. Intermediate colors stem from the combination of primary
and secondary colors.
4. Tertiary colors are obtained by mixing two secondary
colors.
5. Neutral colors are the white, black and gray and are
predominantly grayish and brownish.
a. Value is the lightness or darkness of color. White added to
a color will produce tints. Black added to a color will
produce shades.
b. Intensity or chroma is the chroma of a color corresponds
to its purity and saturation in a color other than black,
white and gray.
Basic Psychological Effects of Colors on People
White makes us feel clean and fresh. White connotes innocence and
purity.
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Red makes us feel bold and daring. Red connotes passion and
bravery.
Yellow makes us feel joyful. It also connotes cowardice and
treachery.
Blue represents truth, loyalty, calmness and wisdom. Deep blue could
also make us feel depressed.
Green suggests abundance as this is the color of plants, but green
could also suggest jealousy.
Purple is the color of royalty, but it could symbolize suffering.
Orange is a warm color but suggests deliciousness and ripeness.
Eateries, especially fastfoods, use orange with a touch of
green to stimulate appetite.
Black suggests strength and dignity and is usually worn for formal
evening affairs. Black also symbolizes mourning and death.
3. Space is the area inside an enclosed shape. The use of space can
lead to an interesting design, but the overuse of a space could make
the design too “busy”, while an empty space could be unattractive.
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4. Form or shape refers to the form of a person which shows the curves
of the body. This includes the shape of the face, neckline and the full
body or figure.
a. Shapes of Faces. There are different shapes of faces and these are:
1. Oval. All kinds of neckline are becoming to this shape.
2. Round. This resembles the shape of the moon where
neckline should be given more considerations.
3. Triangle. The use of wider neckline is helpful.
4. Square. Close necklines will do justice to the top
shape of the face.
5. Heart shape. The shape is fitting to almost all kinds
of necklines.
b. Shapes of Necklines. Necklines emphasize the shape of the face.
In choosing the neckline for a garment, consider the shape of the
face.
1. A combination of vertical and horizontal
lines produces square necklines.
2. Diagonal lines produce V-necklines.
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3. A curve line produces round necklines.
4. A horizontal line produces Sabrina, Boat
or Bateau necklines.
5. A combination of vertical and curve lines
produces U-shaped necklines.
6. Curve lines produce scallop necklines.
c. Body Shapes or Figures. It refers to the overall
structure of the body. This may be of any
combined qualities in height, size and shape.
1. Tall, narrow rectangle or column. This
body type is favoured by fashion designers
as models with this figure make clothes
look great.
Features:
• Tall
• Narrow frame
• Small bust
• High, but undefined waist
• Slim hips
• Flat bottom
• Long slim legs
• Long slim arms
Choose:
• Jackets and tops with detail at the collar
and neckline
• Flare, A-line, pleated and gored skirts suit a tall,
slim frame
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• Low and high waist styles or princess line
dresses with seams curving from the armhole
• Trousers with pockets and pleats at the waist
and hips
2. Hourglass. It is a feminine, well- balanced and in
proportion, with a defined waist
between a full bust and hips.
Features:
• Full bust
• Narrow waist
• Full hips
• Round bottom
Choose:
• Unfussy jackets in a simple line
with few pockets or details
• Bias-cut skirts or softy draping
styles
• Dresses with shaped styled that
accentuate the waist, high-waist
styles and bias-cut dresses
3. Top-heavy Triangle. This shape
applies to those with who are top
heavy, with width in the upper part of
the body and narrowest hips, creating
a triangular-shaped figure.
Features:
• Wide shoulders
• Full bust
• Undefined waist
• Slim hips
• Slim legs
Choose:
• Simple top with round, scooped or
V-shaped necklines look good
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• Straight-tailored, pleated or panelled skirts with
vertical, topstitched seams work well
• Tunics and straight styles suit a top-heavy
silhouette
• Trousers with slim hips and bottom, with detail
at the hip, lowrise styles with a decorative belt
4. Bottom-heavy triangle (the classic
pear-shape). The pear-shape appear
to carry too much weight on the hip,
with the top half of the body small in
comparison with the lower half.
Features:
• Narrow shoulders
• Small bust
• Narrow waist
• Full hips
• Round bottom
• Heavy thighs
Choose:
• Blouses with details like puff, cap
and leg of mutton sleeves add width
to the shoulders and square necks
• Simple skirts with few details that drape over the
hip, A-line, bias cut and assymmetric designs in
a longer length
• Princess-line styles that skim over
the hip with detail at the neckline.
5. Circle (Apple). This silhouette has all
the emphasis in the middle of the body,
with extra weight being carried at the
waistline.
Features:
• Narrow shoulders
• Full bust
• Large tummy
• Flat bottom
• Slim legs
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Choose:
• Blouses with detail at the neckline rather than
the bust, a cardigan style
or a straight fit jacket with a classic collar
• Skirts with an elasticized or faced waistband for
comfort, a straight, gored or wrap skirt with a
length that show off good legs
• Flared dresses with princess-line seams, tunic
styles worn with over leggings or narrow
trousers
• Narrow straight trousers with a faced waist and
concealed zip in the side seam
6. Oval. Generally taller than the apple
and pear figures. The extra height
makes the oval shape easier to conceal.
Features:
• Tall
• Narrow shoulders
• Small bust
• Thick waist
• Average hips
• Slim legs
Choose:
• Light cardigans or unstructured
jackets worn over simple tops; sleeve
details on top and classic shirts with
a yoke
• Blouses with cowl neckline or
heirloom detail at the bust to
balance the width of this area
• Skirts with straight and assymmetric
styles and a border above the hem
• Straight tunic and shift styles
dresses
• Wide-legged, slim-fitting , shapedleg,
and a cropped trousers
5. Texture is the feel (softness, roughness, and
crispness), appearance (shininess, dullness)
and weight (lightweight,
heavyweight, mediumweight) of a fabric.
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6. Pattern or print of fabric is dress materials
produced by interlacing lengthwise and
crosswise threads (weaving) knitting, and other
methods of construction. Characteristics of
fabrics that affect their handling are the fiber,
the type of construction, the weight, the width,
the design, the texture, and the finished fabric.
Most fabrics used in sewing are woven; some are knitted, and a
few are pressed or bonded.
a. Woven means those made by interlacing
two sets of yarns.
1. Grain is direction of the yarn.
2. Lengthwise threads form the
foundation of the fabric and are
the stronger threads. This makes
them firmer and less stretchy than crosswise threads.
3. Selvage refers to the two finished edges of a woven fabric
that are strong and firm. When used on straight seam, do
not require any seam finish.
4. Crosswise threads run across the fabric from selvage to
selvage.
b. Knitted refers to the interlooping of one or more sets of yarns
which form a succession of connected loops causing the stretchy
quality of knits.
c. Pressed or bonded refers to non-woven fabrics like felt and pelon
have no grain. Pelon is used for interfacings.
Selecting Fabric for the Dress
There are several fabrics to choose from but a designer must be guided by
the following guide questions to help the client choose the fabric that will
match the client’s preferences:
1. Is the fabric made of finely woven material? Is it of good quality?
2. Is the color becoming to the complexion of your client?
3. Do the prints match to the client’s size and height?
4. In what appropriate occasion can you wear your garment?
5. Is the fabric easy to maintain?
The answer to these questions will help you decide the kind of fabric
to buy for your client’s clothing that will complement to his/her personality.
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The personality of the wearer shows the kind of image she projects.
Personalities differ depending on the kind of clothing people wear. Most
introvert persons prefer clothes of simple yet classical cut with pastel or
light colors. Extroverts on the other hand are creative, artistic, expressive
and energetic. Hence, they prefer clothing that is comfortable, attractive
and fashionable. They can wear all kinds of clothing of varied style, colors
and design with confidence.
PRINCIPLES OF DESIGN
• Proportion is the relationship in size between various parts to the
whole. Because fashion designing is a creative expression, exact
mathematical proportions are not required as long as what you
design is visually pleasing.
• Balance is the arrangement of a design on a space which results
on a sense of equilibrium. There are two kinds of visual balance.
They are the formal balance, and the informal balance.
• Emphasis is achieved by the designer’s ability to create a center of
interest by which the viewer’s eyes are directed to a specific area of
a garment or body part.
• Rhythm is the repetition of an accent to create an interesting
design. Repeating an accent to different parts of the dress or one
part of the dress will achieve a design that is harmonious and
therefore visually united.
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SPECIAL PREFERENCES
• Collar is designed and attached to any shape of neckline.
• Sleeves is part of the garment that covers and is attached to
the armhole of the garment.
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• Cuff is a plain or decorative band attached to the cover edge of the
sleeve.
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• Pocket is one or two
layer of fabric cut in the
desired shape and
applied to the right side
of a garment or set into
a garment opening or
seam.
• Yoke is a shaped part of garment that holds other part together.
LET US REMEMBER
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• The principles of art together with the different elements must be
utilized properly to come up with the pleasing dress design. The
figure is one factor that influences choice of dress design.
Drawing attention to your best features by using emphasis on
dress design will also camouflage your figure defects.
• The age, figure, complexion and profession of a person affect one’s
choice of clothing materials, fabric durability, ease of handling,
maintenance and cost should also be considered when attending
an occasion.
• The choice of clothing materials reflects one’s personality.
HOW MUCH HAVE YOU LEARNED?
1. What should be considered in planning garment design?
2. Why are client’s needs considered in designing a garment?
LET US APPLY WHAT YOU HAVE LEARNED
Task 1
Color Schemes
• Collect fabrics with different color combinations and arrangements.
In your design you may use these color arrangements of
combinations.
• Cut the fabric into 3-inch by 3-inch squares.
• Paste in an album and refer to them for color schemes.
RUBRICS
Collections of Fabric Criteria and Points
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Task 2
Garment Sketching
Select a partner from your class. Study her individuality. use the form
below to record the information. Recommend a dress design for her specific
needs.
Name of Client: _____________________________ Date:_____________
Shape of Face o Oval
o Round
o Triangle
o Square
Heartshaped
Figure Type
Tall and Slim
o Pear Shaped
o Full-busted
o Short-waisted
Color
o Blue
o Green
o Red
Primary Colors
Secondary Colors
Intermediate Colors
Tertiary Colors
- Collected the primary colors in fabrics – 20 pts.
- Collected the primary and secondary colors in fabrics – 40 pts.
- Collected the primary, secondary and intermediate colors in fabrics – 60 pts.
- Collected the primary, secondary,
Neutral Colors
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intermediate, tertiary colors in fabrics – 80 pts.
Collected the primary, secondary, intermediate,
tertiary and neutral colors in fabrics – 100 pts.
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o Violet
o Yellow
o Orange
o Other
Preferred Color
(Please indicate):____________________
Fabric o Small Prints
o Plain
o Stripes/Plaids
o Bold designs
Abstract
Fabric Texture o Soft
o Lightweight
o Rough
o Heavyweight
o Smooth
o Medium weight
o Shiny
Sleeve o Short
o Long
o Plain o with Fullness
o with Cuff
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Length of Dre
Recommended Design
o Above the knee
o Knee-Level
o Below the knee
o Mid-leg
o Ankle length
Front Back
Note: Label each specific garment design.
RESOURCES:
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Paper/pencil
Cutting tools
Drafting tools
Measuring tools
Measurement chart
Model/Dress Form
Pattern paper
Long table
Weights
Manual/Learning modules
Sloper magazines
Fashion catalogue
Fabrics
Model Project
REFERENCES:
Del Rosario, Constancia et. al. Practical Arts-Clothing and Textiles I
and II, Publisher Philippine Book Company, Printed by Regal,
Manila, Philippines
Francisco, Chic R. Simplified Pattern-Making of Basic ladies, Wear,
Manila, Philippines
Francisco, Chic R. Complete Step-by-Step Guide in Fashion Designing,
Copyright 1992, Golden Ideas Publishing Home Inc.
Hilario, Carmelita B., Clothing Technology Made Easy Publisher National
Book Store Printed by 24k Printing Corp., Valenzuela City
Reader’s Digest, Complete Guide to sewing, The Reader’s Digest
Association, Inc., Pleasantville, New York, Montreal
Rojo, Luz V. et. al. Practical THE, Home Economics III and IV, Philippine,
Adriana Publishing
THE III and IV, Home Technology, Clothing I and II, DECS,
Philippines, Insular Printing Corp.
Knight, Lorna . The Dressmaker’s Technique Bible A Complete Guide to
Sewing. Page One Publishing. Published in Asia 2008
DISCLAIMER
Most of the content of this module is lifted from CBLM in Garments
Second Year, copyright, Department of Education 2008. Graphics were added to
enhance students’ understanding of concepts. Likewise, relevant activities were
added to make the module appropriate for distance modular learning. Barrowed
photos included in this module are owned by their respective copyright owners. The
publisher does not claim ownership over them. The additional activities were
prepared by ____________________________________.
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