service design for the future of textile artisans communities: an enabling ecosystem towards...
TRANSCRIPT
service design for the futureof textile artisans’ communities:an enabling ecosystem towardssustainability & social innovation
Loughborough Design School | AHRC Design Starsupervisors: Dr MC Escobar-Tello, Dr VA Mitchell
Francesco Mazzarella, PhD researcher
research problem
the global crisis is leading to theend of a linear economy, whilesetting the ground for redistributedmicroproductions, based on new ethics of sustainability
the craft discourse is mainlybased on individual makingpractices, overlooking theirhuman and social dimension
it is missing a strategicagenda, which could createsustainable interconnectionswithin this pacthy landscape
to explore how service designcan contribute to encouragetextile artisans’ communitiestowards a sustainable future
research aim
research focus
material
by handsmachinerydigital tools
qualityskilled control
personal identitymaterial culture
local fibres:vegetableanimaldiscarded
artisancommunity
small scalelocaliseddiversifiedflexible
tool making
textiles
utilitarianculturally meaningful
aesthetic
large availability of fibreshigh employmentwide applicationsrising consumer trends
why?
textile artisans’ communitiesare bottom-up, human-centredaggregations, using local fibres,managing the process of makingculturally significant apparel,by hands or through digital tools
service design can facilitatethis holistic process:
1. artisans’ communities2. collaborative services3. enabling ecosystem
reflectset a strategic agendafor encouraging TACtowards a sustainablefuture
1C
prelim
inar
y st
ud
y
planselect TACto involvein co-design
2A 2C
to co-designcollaborativeservices forsustainable
TAC
planmap textileartisanallandscape
1A
planplaninterconnectionsamong TAC
reflectsynthesize servicedesign processinto a theoreticalframework
3A 3C
evaluatio
n
to outlinean enablingecosystem ofsustainable
TAC
act & observeexplore sustainablefuture trendsfor TAC
co-designcollaborativeservices
act & observe
1B
act & observeoutline anenabling ecosystemof services
3B2B
PS: TAC: Textile Artisans’ Communities
to developtheoretical
framework forsustainablefuture for
TAC
mai
n s
tud
y
reflectevaluate whereasservice designhas met thetheoretical framework
methodology
discover define
develop deliver
experts’focus groupshadowing
contextualinterviewsco-creation
serviceblueprint
serviceecosystemmap
encourage sustainable development
trigger creative economiesNew York (USA)
rescue craft heritage
Nottingham (UK)
participatoryaction
research
Cape Town (South Africa)
to explore the wide scope of application of service designand develop a flexible service model to be tailored on di�erent contexts
participatoryaction
research
textile artisans’ communitiescan contribute to sustainabledevelopment as they...rescue cultural heritage provide social engagement
boost creative economy enhance resource stewardship
FUTURETRENDS
1.new marketmodels
alternative economies
Openwear, “CollaborativeCollection”, 2010, EU
global economic shifts grassroots innovations sharing economy collaborative consumption
1a.alternative economies
Patagonia, “CommonThreads”, 2015, USA
2.new business models
redistributed manufacturing
UKTF, Let’s Makeit Here, 2012, UK
relocalised manufacturing micro-factories network of fablabs changing workforce
2a.redistributed manufacturing
Repair Café
Alabama Chanin,Stichting, USA3.new production
models
flexible production
long tail digital fabrication mass customisation on demand
3a.flexible production
Knyttan, UK
4.new design processes
circular economy
Ananas Anam, “Piñatex”,2014, Uk & Spain
open, collaborative, free communities of practice collaborations & short chains cradle to cradle
Neha Lad, “Beauty in thediscarded”, 2014, India4a.circular
economy
5.new product types
advanced artisanship
Yen Chen Chang,“Knitted Sensors”, 2014, UK
from fast to slow fashion long sellers interactive, complex, immaterial product-service-system
Timo Rissanen, Zero-WasteDenim, 2010, USA5a.advanced
artisanship
6.new designer’s roles
designer entrepreneur
Mary Portas, Headen &Quarmby, 2013, UK
mass profession of prosumers multidisciplinary communities tinkering & self-production complex designer’s palette
6a.designer entrepreneur
Wool and the Gang, UK
FireUp, 2103, UK7.new relationships
enabling ecosystem
top-down vs bottom-up distributed P2P networks systemic thinking strategic agenda
7a.enabling ecosystem
TED, The TEN,2014, UK
HOWTO GET THERE?
barriers enablers
Dominance of financial structures based
on profits;
Lack of time & e�orts to develop
alternative models;
Lack of skills;
Export of machinery and outsource of
production;
Lack of interest for young people in craft
production;
Endangered craft heritage;
Consumers’ misperception of quality;
Over-consumption;
Lack of information on textiles, artisans
and sustainability challenges;
Lack of sustainability uptake;
Lack of training in strategies/management/
entrepreneurship in design curricula.
Change of mindset (systemic thinking);
Interconnected
design-artisanship-academia
-policy-consumers;
Cultural empathy with artisans;
Metatools, flexible, collaborative, reflective;
Storytelling to elicit and convey engaging
meanings;
Empowerment models: access to
information, awareness, ability,
independency;
Development of sustainable business
models;
Technological advancements.
a sustainable manifestofor textile artisans’ communities
Shift the focus from aesthetics to ethics, from style to quality meanings;
Ethical labour and rights must be set: less bad is not good;
Textile artisanship stands as a slow reaction to fast fashion;
Textiles are interconnected to their wholeness: materials, processes,
people, places;
Being vs. having, learning from nature and acknowledging the unpredictable;
Manage connectivity within local communities, as collective wisdom and
social act of collaboration;
Design as political agent, embracing diversity as resource, weaving
synergies among di�erent assets;
Scale up open initiatives within peer-to-peer networks at a glocal scale;
Understand the root system and trigger holistic and systemic change,
from micro to macro scales;
Build an enabling ecosystem: complex, adaptive infrastructure supported
by polycentric governance.
