ror step-by-step review 20130514* ferrari 599 gto 1:24 ... · 5/14/2013 · ferrari 250 gto was...

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RoR Step-by-Step Review 20130514* Ferrari 599 GTO 1:24 Scale Revell Kit #85-4034 Review

Gran Turismo Omologato! Three words that bring to mind only one thing: performance! Ever since the first Ferrari 250 GTO was released in 1962 they were made to be driven fast. The 599 GTO is made with those same things in mind. The 599 GTO tops out at 335 km/h [208 mph ], that's over 93 m [300 feet] per second. It’s 5999 cc [366 cu in] V-12 engine provides 661 horsepower which is more than enough to bring the GTO from 0 to 60 mph in just 3.3 seconds! However with Ferrari limiting production to just 599 cars this is indeed a rare performer. For the Modeler: This is the 1:24 scale skill level 3 Revell Ferrari 599 GTO Kit #85-4034. Upon opening the kit you immediately realize a few things: one this kit builds only as the 599 GTO, two this is a skill 3 kit for the intermediate modeler and at one hundred and twenty-nine pieces this kit is very detailed. This kit consists of 129 pieces molded in white plastic with chrome and clear parts and soft vinyl tires and waterslide decals. Lastly some good news for all of us there is no flash to be found anywhere on this kit. This 1/24 scale kit features a detailed V-12 GTO engine, six-speed transmission, open side and hood louvers and movable tires. The finished model’s dimensions are Length: 7-1/2", Width: 3-1/2", Height: 2-1/8".


[fig 2] This is the kit’s box art and contents.

[fig 4] [fig 5] I started with the engine. Even at 14 pieces the motor was surprising not that detailed, but this is not important as most of it is hidden anyway. I started by gluing the block halves [#1 & #2] together and added the engine top [#3] then the engine bottom/oil pan [#4] and engine front [#7]. After it was dry I painted the whole thing Testors flat Aluminum. Next I assembled the intake manifold [#5 &#6] which was also painted Aluminum and installed. Finally I added the oil pump [#10] which is painted Testors Steel and the rocker covers [right #9 & left #8] which are painted Testors Flat Red with the plug boot covers painted flat black .


[fig 3] When it came time to paint the catalytic converters [#11 & #13] I noticed they have a large seam line that had to be dealt with [see fig 3]. After sanding them smooth with a medium sanding stick I painted them and attached the headers [#12 & #14]. I painted the whole thing Testors Steel and added them to the motor. I should note that parts 11 & 12 form the right header and parts 13 & 14 the left.

[fig 6] Next I decided to do the body preparations. The body in the kit is very well done, but like all kits there are molding lines to remove. In fig 6 I have highlighted the two molding lines by the rear pillar. I’ve also highlighted the tops of the front/rear fenders, Although they are shaped correctly the tops are too pointed [sharp] to be accurate and the paint will try to pull back from them as well. The molding lines were sanded flush with a medium sanding stick. For the crowns on the fenders I chose a fine stick. I used the fine sanding stick because I didn’t want to change the contour of the fender I just wanted to dull the edges of them. Hold and sand at a 45 degree angle [from the edge you’re sanding] following the contour of the fenders. I sand this way, because if you sand across the fender or back an forth it can leave it looking uneven or have flat spots. Remember all you want to do is dull the edge of them not sand it off.

[fig 7] The body was then primed with Duplicolor white primer and painted Krylon Red Pepper Red then set aside to dry.


[fig 8] [fig 9] Now we are going to move on to the chassis. First thing you notice is the chassis on an exotic is a plate. Meaning; unlike most American cars, the drive train is “inside” the chassis not on the undercarriage. I painted the chassis low gloss black inside and out. The next thing I noticed as I was going to put on the mufflers [#16 right & #17 left] is that they also had a molding line around them see fig 8. It turns out that it doesn’t show, but since I was going to sand and paint them Aluminum anyway I decided to deal with it. If you are going to leave them chrome just skip this section, but if not I just sanded off the line while removing the chrome. I left the tips chrome but dropped a little flat black in the ends for realism. Then just painted the mufflers Aluminum [pipes Steel] and glued them in place see fig 9. [fig 10] Next I moved on to the front of the chassis. I painted the fuel injection manifold [#41] exhaust pipes [#18] Steel and installed them. Then when you install the completed motor be sure to line up the headers to the ends of the exhaust pipes before lowering the front into place. All chassis components are painted Low Gloss Black except where noted. I set the spindles in place [#22 left & #23 right] and added the tie rod, but do not use glue if want poseable front wheels [the parts will hold together until the next step]. Now add [glue] the front upper A arms [#26 left & #29 right] in place. Finally paint the front struts [#25 left & #28 right] Steel and cement them in. Here if you want the front tire to move it says to heat the ends of the spindles and the connection pin ends for the tie rod, but you don’t have to do the spindles because when you glue in part 26 & 29 it holds the spindles in place and allows them to move, so just do the tie rod connectors. I used a soldering iron for this, but whatever heat source you use be careful not to completely melt the part. All you are trying to do is heat the end to the point that it starts to swell. Once it does you can remove the heat source and allow it to cool. Then touch up paint if necessary.


[fig 11] Then detail the ends of the axles with Flat Black before installing it.

[fig 12] Finally add the front inner fenders [#27 left & #30 right] making sure to guide the top of the strut into the mounting holes in the fenders. Next cement the transaxle top [#20] to the trans axle bottom [#19] and add the trans axle cover [#21] the paint the body of the unit Aluminum and the driveshaft and axles Steel. Again all chassis components are Low Gloss Black unless noted. Put right rear spindle [#36] in place and carefully move it over the end over the axle to lock it in place then cement in the right rear upper A arm [#37]. Then repeat for the left side using left rear spindle [#31] and left rear upper A arm [#32]. Next you add the right stabilizer bar [#38] and the left stabilizer bar [#33]. I attached them by putting the point in open hole [at rear] on the side of the A arm then working the ring over the mounting tab on the spindle. Then just repeat for the other side. Now paint the rear struts [#39 right & #34 left] Steel and cement one end of each into the hole in the top of each of the rear upper A arms. Then I put a small amount of glue on the other end of the right strut and lowered the right rear inner fender [#40] onto it using tweezers to align the top of the strut with the hole in the fender and cement it in place. Just repeat this for the left side using the left rear strut [#34] and left rear inner fender [#35].


I decided to do the radiator assembly next, So I painted up the three parts [#42 electric fans, #43 radiator & #44 radiator shroud] Low Gloss Black then assembled and installed it. Then paint the radiator support [#45] Low Gloss Black and install it.

[fig 13] I started on the air intake [#46] by painting the body of it Flat Red and the ducts Flat Black. Then I detailed it with Steel see fig 13 before attaching it. Finally I added decals #28 [x2 but just the “Ferrari” lettering], #30 and #31.

[fig 14] The wheels and tires in this kit are very well done and assemble as in the instructions [as does the rest of the kit], but I will go through them anyway. I started all the wheel backs [#57, 51, 48 and 54] Aluminum and the disc brakes [#58, 52, 55 and 49] Steel. Then I painted the calipers and applied decal #36 to each. I chose to paint mine purple, but red, black or even leaving them steel are good options as well. There are also three different brake decals as well. Now on to the tires!


[fig 16] As with most [if not all] high performance tires they are directional and need to assembled correctly or they will not fit or look good. I started with the right rear tire [keeping the larger part of the tread to the inside] then added the backing [#57] and the disc brake [#58] and then added the rim [#59]. The rims and backings fit snuggly into the tires an don’t need to be glued, but you can if you want. Next using the other rear tire put the backing [#51] in on the same side of the tire like you did on the right one. Then add the disc brake [#52] and the rim [#53]. Move onto the front tires and assemble them as you did the back [backing on the same sides] using #54, #55 and #56 for the right. Then use #48, #49 and #50 for the left. I finally applied decal #43 [x4] to the center of each wheel. I labeled my wheels with small L’s and R’s on the backings using a pencil. I didn’t want to confuse the sides as I had to photograph them before installing, but they can be attached after each one is assembled when building it as well.

[fig 18 & 18a] Moving on to the interior it is very well done and is also incredibly detailed at an amazing 24 pieces. To start with I painted the interior pan [#61], seats [#65,66,69 &70], steering column [#73 &74], steering wheel [#76], hand grip [#63] and hand brake [#64] Model Master Fabric Tan. Another great detail in this kit is it features a separate roof panel. I painted this Red Pepper Red to match the body, but did not clear coat it. This gave it the satin look I wanted. I painted the rearview mirror Low Gloss Black and painted the mirror face chrome and attached it. There is a decal provided for the mirror face [#18], but I really didn’t like the look of it. Finally I detailed the visors with Flat Black and the interior light Flat White then set it aside.


[fig 17] Next I decided do the dashboard [#77] and painted Low Gloss Black. I then applied decals #9 and 11 to the instrument panel. It should be noted that there are more decal options here. You can have a yellow gauge face by using decal #10 or delete the accessory gauges [decal #9] by using the Ferrari logo and “GTO” [#8 decal]. Apply decal #15 directly beneath the passenger side heater vent and decal #12 below the driver side heater vent. Paint the instrument cover [#79] and dash panel [#78] Low Gloss Black and install them. Apply decal #14 directly over the radio on the dash panel. I decided to further detail with chrome rings around the heat vents and knobs [see fig 17]. The radio still didn’t look right, so I “painted” the radio face with a black sharpie to try giving it the correct look. Moving on next to the steering wheel/column I glued the steering column top & bottom together then added the paddle shifters [#75] and detailed the turn signal/steering wheel tilt handles flat black before installing it. Finally I detailed the steering wheel with flat black then painted the engine start/suspension select buttons with Flat Red and applied decal #13 [see fig 17] before installing it.

[fig 19] Turning to the interior pan [#60] I applied decals #1[driver] and #2 [passenger] to the floorboards. I detailed the center

console and seat belts [on rear shelf] Flat Black. Next I detailed the hand brake [#64] grip handle Flat black then cemented it in place along with the hand grip [#63]. Finally I applied decals #3,4 and 5 to the pedal assembly and installed it. I left out decal #7 [driver’s foot plate] as there was nowhere to attach it except on the floorboard and that looked horrible. For those that really want the decal I would suggest either cutting it out and gluing it in backing and all or making a foot plate from sheet plastic to apply it to. Neither were an option as my decal was already applied and removed.


[fig 20] The seats in this kit are well done and fit together with little visible seam. First I painted the center of the seat fronts [#66 left & #70 right] Flat Black [see fig 20]. I assembled the passenger seat first [#69 & #70] and added the inner [#71] and outer [#72] seat supports. Next repeat these steps using parts

#65 & 66 and adding #67 & 68. Then cement both seats in place. Finally paint the middle of the door panels [#80 right & #81 right] Flat Black [see fig 19] and install them.

[fig 20a&b] I turned my attention back to the body and decided to put the vents in first. I painted them all Flat Black and installed them starting at the passenger side front vent [#84] and working my way back to the mid vent [#85] then to the rear vent [#86]. I then moved to the Driver side rear vent [#89] followed by the mid vent [#88] and ending at the front vent [#87] These fit really well in the holes but I used Elmer’s Glue All to attach them. I did so just in case any glue came out the other side it was easily removed without damaging the body. Next I attached the completed roof panel which I clamped in place with a couple of clothes pins, but don’t forget to put a small piece of paper towel between the pin and the body [roof] so the paint won’t get scratched. This allowed me to turn over the body and work on it while the glue dried as well as holding it in place.

[fig 21] I started by painting the engine bay Flat Black [see fig 21] and used a black sharpie to black out the headlight buckets. These two things are not in the instructions, but add needed detail to the build. Next starting at rear passenger side of the engine bay I added the decals [#22-27]. These decals are very small requiring patience and time to get placed correctly. I wet each decal before I was ready to use, so I would not have to feel rushed getting them in place. While the decals were setting I took the clothes pins off the body and worked on the headlights. Again the instructions don’t say it, but the top of each headlight insert [#106 right and 103 left] are the turn signals and need to be detailed in Amber. Once done I installed them and attached the headlight cover [#107 right and 104 left] with Elmer’s Glue All. Next I painted the grille [#83] Flat Black and added the horse emblem [#105] before cementing it in

place. The hood has four vents [#93,94, 95 & 96] that were painted Flat Black. With the hood [#92] face down and front toward me I placed the top right vent [#93] then moved to the top left vent [#94] followed by the bottom left vent [#96] and finally the bottom right vent [#95]. I then painted the [underside] center of the hood flat black and installed the hood hinge [#97 Low Gloss Black]. Once the paint was dry I worked the hood into the body. Be sure work the hinges in slowly so not to break them. I attached the hinge retainer [#98 Fabric Tan] and put the completed interior into body. Then I lowered it onto the completed chassis. Finally I attached the front spoiler [#102 Low Gloss Black].


[fig 22] Once done I installed the windows using Elmer’s Glue All. I then installed the side windows [#109 driver side & #110 passenger side] after foiling the “posts” in the middle of the windows using black chrome foil. Afterwards I assembled the left mirror [#120 Low Gloss Black & 121 Chromed] and right mirror [#122 Low Gloss Black & 123 Chromed]. I would advise test fitting the mirrors prior to applying any glue as the mounting holes were too small on mine and had to opened a little with an X-acto knife. Then cement them in place. Finally I installed the windshield wipers [#124 left and 125 right Flat Black]. [fig 23] Again even though it is not noted in the instructions the edges of the windshield [#108] and rear window [#111] are supposed to be blacked out. I have discovered that using a Sharpie on the back of the area is a great way to do this and with patience it looks very good [see fig 23].

[fig 25a] If you are going to use a North American plate, before attaching the license plate holder you should shorten it by cutting it just outside of the mounting pins.


[fig 25] With assembly up front complete I cemented the rear body panels [#119 left & #118 right painted Red Pepper Red] in place. Then added the rear fog lights [#100 & 101 painted Stop Light Red] to the rear pan [#99 Low Gloss Black]. Next I cemented the rear pan in place and attached the rear splitter [#47 Low Gloss Black]. Then I painted the center brake light [#114 Stop Light Red] and installed it using Elmer’s Glue All. Finally I turned to the taillights and one of the beauties of this kit is the two part taillights. These allow you to easily and realistically replicate “Euro style” taillights. I took the taillights [#116 left & #112 right chromed] and detailed the outer part with Stop Light Red leaving the centers chrome. I assembled each taillight [#116 & #117 left and #112 & #113] and attached them with Elmer’s Glue All. I applied decal #38 below center brake light and decal #42 under the right taillight [see fig 25].

[fig 25b] All that is left is to apply the remaining decals to the car. The Ferrari badge decals [#21 x2] locate just in front of the air vents on the front quarter panels and the side marker decals [#44 x2] go over the molded in lights under the vents. Decal #40 [x2] locate centered under the door air vents just above the body line. The kit also comes with two different stripes: gray carbon fiber [#45,46 &47] and yellow racing ones [#50,51 & 52]. My one and only “complaint” on this kit is that these

stripes are too light. They should be a dark gray [almost black] to be correct, but I liked them so I used them and applied the hood badge decal [#39] over the hood stripe [#45] right at the beginning of the body line in the middle of the hood [see fig 22].


[fig 999] FINAL IMPRESSIONS: This is a wonderful kit to build and is a great subject matter. I would like to recommend it for all builders. However because of the small decals and I think some novice builders will struggle with this kit especially without this review, but for those up for the challenge it is worth it. I would give this kit 9.5 out of 10 stars and would gladly build it again.

ror step-by-step review 20130514* ferrari 599 gto 1:24 ... · 5/14/2013 · ferrari 250 gto was...

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