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SCS Summer School © Society of Cosmetic Scientists 2020 John Tainton SCS Summer School Webinar 2020 Production and Outsourcing Module 3, Unit 19 Questions 2 & 8 Paper 3

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Page 1: Production and Outsourcing Module 3, Unit 19 Questions 2

SCS Summer School © Society of Cosmetic Scientists 2020

John Tainton

SCS Summer School Webinar 2020

Production and Outsourcing

Module 3, Unit 19

Questions 2 & 8 Paper 3

Page 2: Production and Outsourcing Module 3, Unit 19 Questions 2

SCS Summer School © Society of Cosmetic Scientists 2020

Poll Question

Which product types are you most familiar with (you can select more than one)?

• Detergent based formulations such as shampoos

• Emulsion based formulations such as face creams

• Powder based colour cosmetics such as eyeshadows and blushers

• Soap bars

• Stick products such as antiperspirants and deodorants

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Page 3: Production and Outsourcing Module 3, Unit 19 Questions 2

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Poll Question

How much experience did you have of manufacturing

Before you started this unit?

• None

• A little

• Some

• A lot

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Poll Question

Which part of the Unit did you find most interesting?• The Production Process

• Information Transfer and Scale-Up

• Manufacturing and Mixing of Cosmetic Products

• Processes used in Mixing of Cosmetic Products

• Stick Products

• Powders – Solid/ Solid Mixing

• Filling Techniques

• Soap Production

• Ancillary Operations

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Page 5: Production and Outsourcing Module 3, Unit 19 Questions 2

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Poll Question

Which part of the Unit did you find least interesting?• The Production Process

• Information Transfer and Scale-Up

• Manufacturing and Mixing of Cosmetic Products

• Processes used in Mixing of Cosmetic Products

• Stick Products

• Powders – Solid/ Solid Mixing

• Filling Techniques

• Soap Production

• Ancillary Operations

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Page 6: Production and Outsourcing Module 3, Unit 19 Questions 2

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Poll Question

Which part of the Unit would you like more information on?• The Production Process

• Information Transfer and Scale-Up

• Manufacturing and Mixing of Cosmetic Products

• Processes used in Mixing of Cosmetic Products

• Stick Products

• Powders – Solid/ Solid Mixing

• Filling Techniques

• Soap Production

• Ancillary Operations

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Production

• The 7 areas we are going to cover are:

1. Organisation – departments and interconnections

2. Types of Information requirements

3. Bulk Manufacturing – bath & shower products, creams & lotions, lipsticks and powder eyeshadows & blushers

4. Product-filling equipment

5. Good Manufacturing Practice

6. Personal safety & hygiene

7. Water

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Page 8: Production and Outsourcing Module 3, Unit 19 Questions 2

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Production

Production and Interdepartmental Relationship• Marketing, Planning, Purchasing can be Local,

National, Regional and Global• Sales – these may be National, Local and Regional• Technical Group: Research, Development, Quality• Operations Group: Manufacturing, Filling, Assembly,

Warehousing, Engineering, Industrial Engineering• New roles – New Product Co-Ordinator & Value

Stream Manager • Outsourcing

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Production and Interdepartmental Relationships

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Marketing

Technical Group:Research

DevelopmentQuality

Sales

Operations Group:Manufacturing

FillingAssembly

WarehousingEngineering

Planning

Purchasing

Finance Industrial Engineering

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Production• Once the new product brief has been agreed with all of the

interested departments: Marketing, Sales, Finance, Planning and Purchasing and the products have been formulated and packaging designed and stability tested by the R&D team, Production has the responsibility for taking the approved formulation and packaging into factory production.

• If the new products require new equipment through investment due to capacity issues or product formulation requirements then this can be a much longer-term project, up to 24 months.

• During the initial discussions with the trade partners supermarkets & pharmacies/drug stores an “on-shelf date” would have been agreed to fit around their promotional activity and is difficult to change, due to the amount of background work required to get the product into store.

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Production

• It is important to remember that whatever happens: any delays from late arrival of componentry, labels, raw materials or bulk production problems: Production has to sort them to meet the shipment dates/on-shelf dates.

• Consideration has to be given where the new products will be manufactured

a) in house (at the company’s manufacturing sites) or

b) at a contractor?

• Whichever route is taken, a product information dossier is needed, containing all the information required to start the scale-up process and into full production.

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Production

• The following two slides detail a Supplier Selection process

where some parts or all parts can be used to select a suitable

manufacturing site.

• Supplier Selection Process

• Supplier Selection Funnel

• These can also be used as the basis where a company has

multiple sites or already uses a range of different contractors

and the most cost effect identified for a particular product or

technology type.

• They can be used to review the current supplier base to optimise

it.

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Survey

Confidentiality Agreements and

GBS

Supplier Selection

FunnelQuality Audit

Contracts

Supply

Project Input

Supplier Selection Steering Group

Procurement Operations QA Scale-Up

Supplier Selection Process

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Supplier Selection Funnel

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Production

• Before the next steps can be planned, we need to gather as much

information as possible which starts in the laboratory:

• Building a formulation knowledge dossier – lab process and equipment used

should be well observed and documented with phased change Critical Control

Points (CCPs). Develop a process map including adjustments for the pH and

viscosity with what raw materials to be used

• Knowledge briefs - what can be learned from similar formulations in the

company’s product portfolio. Learnings from previous production problems.

• Dossier for all raw materials including alternatives with specifications and

suppliers’ details.

• Scale-up results, batch size, vessel size and design, heating and cooling rates,

types of mixer and homogeniser with speeds and rates of raw material addition

• Cleaning process for bulk and raw materials.

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Production

• Risk Assessments for the manufacturing process, raw materials and

bulk are about assessing the risks to employees, environment and if

new equipment is required. All fragrances are classified as

sensitisers as it is difficult to predict what is a safe level.

• Information transfer - too much relevant information is better than

too little.

• Whichever route is decided, in-house or to outsource manufacturing

to a contractor, then a Project Plan is required to manage all stages

in the process. The software often used is Microsoft Project, but

Excel can also be used.

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Production• An implementation team should be formed from either the factory or the

Contractor team and agreements on trails outcome. Many contractors will want to undertake a challenge test to check the efficacy of the preservative system against their in- house microbiological environment and a risk assessment in case problems arise late.

• They will also want to undertake a scale-up/trial batch using their processing equipment and water. All costs including for the waste disposal of the trials should be discussed. The costs will vary considerably depending on product type and batch size and formulation complexity. The aim should be to use as much of the bulk as possible and to reduce the waste and disposal costs or to sell the filled product in the staff shop.

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Production

Bulk Manufacturing – Processing Scale-Up.

• The type of equipment used will depend upon the product type:

• Detergent based formulations – shampoos, shower gels, bath foam. Require

mixing vessel with baffles & variable speed stirrer, high speed rota-stator mixing

unit to disperse the 70% Sodium Lauryl Ether Sulphate (SLES). There should also

be a recirculation pump pipeline with entry ports at different heights so that the

flow for water and SLES can be directed under the level of the liquid to reduce

foaming. Vessel design height to diameter ratio 1:2 with a blade width of 50% of

vessel diameter and side baffles (3 - 4) to create turbulence to improve mixing.

The addition of other bulk raw materials like Betaine & Brine (26% Sodium

Chloride solution) can be made through a manifold.

• Storage Liquids – for large scale manufacture then pump storage tanks are best

or IBC’s 1000 litre bag in box for smaller batches. But remember that the cost of

using IBC will be added to the product costings.13/07/2020 18

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ProductionBasic Schematic for the dilution/mixing system for 70% SLES detergent for Bath, Shower & Shampoos.

By connecting a pump into the recirculation flow then SLES 70% can be introduced into the water flow for dilution before the high-speed device

By installing a pipe manifold into the return in feed the different bulk raw materials can be pumped into the vessel.

Installing cross flow pipes at different positions on the out flow from the high-speed device the flow can be directed below the liquid level as the vessel fills and will reduce foaming and improve mixing of the batch

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Production

• Simple basic flow patterns in liquids• Tangential flow; the liquid moves parallel to the impeller, with little movement perpendicular

to the blades.

• Radial flow; liquid is discharged outward from the impeller by centrifugal force moving the liquid.

• Axial flow takes place parallel to the axis of rotation.

• Axial flow is the most important type of flow pattern for an efficient mixing environment.

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Production

• Emulsion formulation – Creams & Lotions – conditioners, face & body creams. Equipment configuration for the mixing vessel is with heating and cooling with contra-rotating mixer with side wipes, high speed homogeniser rota-stator mixing unit and for flexibility a recirculating pump for bottom to top to improve uniformity, also with pressure and vacuum facilities. Side vessels are also required to add additional phases or ingredients.

• Storage Emulsion Products – creams and lotions depending on the batch size and viscosity – thin lotions can be in pump storage tanks or in IBC 1000 litre bag in box .

• There are many designs for emulsion manufacturing vessels from basic vessel with manual controlled to highly automatic computer process controls with custom designed blades and flow patterns.

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Production

• This shows a typical 1000 litre vessel used to manufacture complex emulsion creams and cost over £500K second hand, over 12 years ago and the project took over 18 months to complete. A laboratory sized vessel was also purchased for trial batches in the R&D Scale Up laboratory.

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Production

• This is a schematic of a typical UK 1000 kg process vessel used to manufacture emulsion type products.

• In addition to the labelling, it also has vacuum and pressure capability for loading & unloading and reduce air entrapment.

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Production

Filling

• A basic filling line is composed of bottle loading unit, filler, capping unit, labeller unit, coding unit and packing to carton or outer. A shrink wrapper unit may be added to the end of line to collate units in 3, 4 or 6 units.

• The primary component is loaded into a puck

• Detergent base formulations There are a wide range of different filling machine that can be used to fill this type of product ranging from 30 units per minute up to 350 units per minute. As the speed increases then the level of automation technology must increase. The faster the filling line the greater the need for technology to control the line – such as cameras to monitor the label position and automatic weight recording.

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Production

Filling

• Going from hand loading of most components to the filling line to automatic loading of components where the operators act as machine minders. The crewing or number of operators reduces from about 8 to 3 or 4

• Creams/ emulsions, again, similar filling machines can be used for detergent based products, but it will depend on the viscosity and rheology of the product and the type of primary components (jars, pots, toggle) will dictate the filling method.

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Production

• In-line filling systems typically use multi-headed fillers with between 4 and 8 filling heads.

• The filling machine arranges the bottles in groups of twos, threes or fours to match the number of filling heads, before filling commences

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Production

• All rotary filling techniques are based on the use of a rotary carousel as shown in the diagram

• The rotary filler is fed automatically using an unscrambling table and the filled product is also removed automatically.

• The number of filling heads on a rotary filler is in multiples of 8.13/07/2020 27

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Production

• The manufacture of lipsticks and powder eyeshadows & blushers requires the pigments to be dispersed – ground in different mediums:

• Lipstick pigments are dispersed in castor oil to create a paste using one of three different types of milling equipment –

• A Triple Roller Mill, is ideal for small scale production or laboratory paste preparation

• A Colloid Mill, sometimes called a carborundum/stone mill is a form of very hard ceramic and functions by running a spinning disc at high speed and grinding the pigment particles into the castor oil.

• A Bead Mill, works by reducing the particle size by collisions of the pigment with ceramic or metal beads

• Eyeshadow and blusher pigments are ground with white base raw materials to produce a uniform blend.

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ProductionBead mill for dispersing pigments in to castor oil to make colour pastes

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Production

• Lipsticks mass (bulk) – A heated mixing vessel with a propeller type stirrer to blend the pigment pastes and ingredients. A high-speed homogeniser is not required as it will break up pearl pigments

• Storage Lipstick mass bulk – are normally manufactured ahead of moulding and stored as slabs in plastic lined cardboard boxes before re-melting them prior to filling.

• Lipsticks are moulded using molten lipstick mass using either an automatic unit or split moulds with a chiller to help solidify the stick. The split mould method is manual and will be slow, whereas the automatic unit will be faster as the lipstick mass/bulk is injected directly into a lipstick shaped plastic component and all stages are completed by the unit.

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Production

• Powder eyeshadows & blushers – there are different combinations of equipment for manufacturing coloured powders – high speed mill to grind/disperse the pigments into the white base and mixed in a trough mixer to get a uniform blend. or

• Plough Shear Mixer - a trough mixer with a built in mill to grind the pigments to create a uniform batch.

• Storage Powders – plastic kegs or stainless steel drums with lids and plastic liners.

• Powders – blushers and eyeshadows are compressed into a godet using a powder press, these are then stored ready for loading manually into the compact. At each stage there is a testing process to ensure that they are free from bacteria, that could cause problems when applied to the eyes and cheeks

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Page 32: Production and Outsourcing Module 3, Unit 19 Questions 2

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ProductionPlough Shear Mixer Unit which is an all in one powder mill and mixer

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Poll Question

How important is the quality of water used in cosmetic products?

• Not important

• Not very important

• Important

• Very important

• Extremely important

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Production

• Manufacturing Water Selection and Treatment

• Fact: we are selling products with a high percentage of water, water is a key ingredient that must be respected to ensure the purity of the finished product.

• Quality Audits show water systems are a key area where most risks are taken by factories.

• Water quality can affect the stability and preservation system.

• The same rules should be applied for all treated product water whether Soft or Demineralised.

• The factory water supply is called Mains or Town water.

• In some EU countries town water is used in detergent based products.

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ProductionWater treatment and types

• Deionised water The calcium & magnesium (hardness salts) are removed using a resin bed that replaces all the cations with hydrogen and anions with hydroxide. The conductivity of water is used as a measure of its purity. Deionised water is the most popular and is used for all product types.

• Soft Water – this is used in the UK and mains water is treated in a resin bed to change the magnesium and calcium ions to sodium (using Salt - sodium chloride).

• Reverse Osmosis this process typically removes over 99% of dissolved solids present in mains water. Water permeates through a membrane and excludes suspended solids. Dissolved salts and any large organic molecules.

• Bacteriological control is important for the above types of water and it is ideal to use 2 separate methods of microbiological control as insurance.

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Production

Water System Design

• There must be an independent water supply to produce the treated water used in processing.

• All systems should use a storage tank and permanent running ring main system with a variable speed pump to generated turbulent flow to reduce the risk of bio-film build up.

• With no dead legs, pipe runs as short as possible, all pipe runs should have a minimum slope of greater than 10 degrees so that the system can be drained down at its lowest point.

• All water storage tanks to have spray balls for the return flow into the storage tank.

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Production

• Over the last 15 years there has been a development in sterilising water using Ozone to kill bacteria and reduce the build-up of bacteria and bio-film in pipelines and storage tanks. This was originally developed for the pharmaceutical industry where ultra pure water is required.

• The system operates automatically and uses atmospheric oxygen to produce ozone which is injected in the water flow. UV light will destroy the ozone just before it goes into the process vessel. This is an environmentally friendly process as no chemicals are used and no chemicals are discharged to the wastewater system.

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Production

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Production

Good Manufacturing Practice

• Each company needs to have a written documented system that can be used to audit the manufacturing site to ensure compliance to company policy for GMP.

• The system should cover all aspects of how the manufacturing and operation department works from beginning to end.

• Quality Audits highlight the risks on the manufacturing site and what corrective action is required. The audits can be weekly or Monthly and be calendarized.

• Personal Safety & Hygiene – this is about making the operator safe and reducing the possibility of contamination to the product.

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Production

Good Manufacturing Practice

• The storage and dispensing of raw materials - this is a key area for providing traceability of their usage in different formulation/products

• Cleanliness of the Plant and site – how clean is the site, how is the rubbish controlled, where are empty containers stored, how are spillages cleaned up?

• Washing of processing vessel and stainless-steel utensils/equipment – what process is used to clean vessels after use – in vessel cleaning system, boil out and drain down, washing machine to clean the utensils?

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Poll Question

Have you watched the factory visit video?

• Yes

• No

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Poll Question

If not, why not?

• Not enough time

• Not reached that section of the Unit

• Not interested in the video

• I work in a factory environment

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Exam Question a) Identify the functions and/or departments involved in the development and launch of a

new product. Include the responsibilities of each department and indicate at what stagethey might become involved in the development and launch process. (9 marks)

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Exam Answer•Answer - I would be looking for a discussion and description of the followingdepartments:

•Marketing – may be split between brand development & brand building, products ideas andconcepts to be developed by the Technical R&D team 1.0

•Technical – product development, testing and claims justification. QC &QA, Microbiological

• testing 1.5

• Sales – category management, devise marketing strategy for each band & global 1.0

•Operations – this is the biggest collection of different safety, filling, bulk manufacturing,assemble, warehousing, engineering, industrial engineering 1.5

•Planning – Production Control and planning department play a key role in managingproduction, phase in NPD introduction and phase out winding production down to reducestock write offs when a new product is being introduced. 1.0

•Purchasing or Procurement department – responsible for sourcing components and rawmaterials to meet the projected volumes and price. 0.5

•Finance – developing costing models to ensure profitability of each brand variant 0.5

•Value stream & New product development Co-ordination these are two new developmentsin managing new products on a global scale. 0.5

•Department interaction diagram 1.0

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Exam Question •What information is required when preparing the production plan for the following timescales one week & one month? Include comments on the importance of the information and where this would be found for each part. (8 marks)

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Exam Answer• One week – MRP Software based on Critical Path Analysis data for each product code - date,

day, Works production order number – product code – SKU, quantity of finished units, quantity and quality of bulk required, filling equipment required, crew numbers -operator hours. Is a dedicated filler required? Componentry delivery and quality issues, issues at the suppliers or in-house rejection. Any special instructions required – for a rework or pack off. 4.0

• One month - NPD activity, promotional activity for each SKU, outsourcing or subcontracting,

recruitment for extra staff, new equipment status, new component and raw material delivery or status for NPD projects. The need to operate additional working shifts

and the impact of holiday close down and plant maintenance. Component supplier issues due shut downs. 4.0

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Exam Question• The ancillary operations vary depending on the type of product such as mass-market shower

gels or prestige body creams, and the market segment it is aimed at. Draw a diagram of a filling line used to fill a premium body cream which is part of a range extension. (8 marks)

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Exam Answer• I would be looking for a discussion on the following points for a body cream filled into a glass

jar with a lid + insert and carton with leaflet and cellophaned wrapped:

• The filling machine type & line speed will determine which of the following will used: 1.5

• Bottle cleaning – this is done by inverting the jar and using sterile air to blow any debris out of the jar and collect it 1.0

• Insert – chive hand or machine Capping machine placing & tightening to the specified tightness 0.5

• Printed jar or label - wrap round, front with a base label to include date or batch code

by ink jet or laser printing and why the batch coding is important 1.0

• Shrink sleeves – around the jar/cap for security 0.5

• Packing into a carton – hand or auto 0.5

• Cellophaning- auto or hand Shrink wrapping – 0.5

• End of line – Pack to shipper - Auto pack & pallet 0.5

• Drawing of the filling line with the chosen stations 2.0

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Production

• Thank you for your attention

• Any questions please type into the Q&A box

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