Porto, the douro – Port Wines, and…Golf

PortuGal’s costa Verde....

A hitherto relatively unknown area occupying the northwest corner of Portugal and appropriately named, ‘Costa Verde’ offers a wealth of natural beauty - spectacularly wooded land rising to mountainous peaks thick with areas of eucalyptus and pine.

Consisting of the Provinces of Minho and Douro, the coastline offers long, sandy beaches, pounded persistently by breakers rolling in from the Atlantic. Its historical associations go back some three thousand years or more, resulting in a glorious array of castles, palaces and higgledy-piggledy towns and rural communities scattered throughout the land. Recent substantial investment in spectacular motorways has added to those highways which already linked most of the major towns and coastal resorts keeping the multitude of little villages in touch with each other, not to mention small, local trains which helped in keeping communities alive…

And it’s trains – one of the early means of transport out of the capital, Porto - which were instrumental in bringing golf to the region, many, many years ago…But more of that later…..

Most English will immediately recognize the name ‘Douro’, associated as it is with Port wines, famous the world over. Rising in Durelo de la Sierra in the north eastern Spanish Province of Soria, the river flows into and across northern Portugal, out into the Atlantic at Porto; it is one of the longest rivers of the Iberian Peninsula. Fast-flowing it provides an excellent means for transporting goods – in particular, wines! Vineyards have occupied the terraced slopes along the banks of the river for more than 2,000 years, with wines rapidly transported in traditional rabelo (flat-bottomed) boats to the mouth of the river, at Porto, where they would be transformed, ‘strengthened’ by the addition of pure alcohol to guarantee remaining good for long journeys by boat.

After the Treaty of 1703, trade with England was developed and Port remains the oldest appellation in the world, with the first demarcation being awarded to the Douro Valley wine region. Portugal has two wine producing regions protected by UNESCO as World Heritage sites – ‘Douro Vinhateiro’ and Pico Island, Açores. A typically ‘Mediterranean’ climate – chilly winters and hot, dry summers results in soil

known as ‘shist’, absolutely ideal for growing what the Oxford Companion to Wines so succinctly describes as a “treasure trove of indigenous grape varieties…having both quality and uniqueness”.

Porto itself is Portugal’s 2nd largest city and sprawls steeply upwards from the banks of the river through narrow, cobbled streets, with tantalizing glimpses of the river below at every turn.

Registered as a UNESCO world heritage site in 1996 it’s home to many, many historically and architecturally fascinating landmark buildings – No-one

visiting the Region should miss taking at least a day out to go there, preferably taking the services of a city guide, in order to not miss seeing the most famous sights…’Clerigos Tower, the ‘Palacio de Bolsa’ (Stock Market) - with its astoundingly beautiful ‘Moorish Hall’), Cathedral, even the main Railway station building and so on…before moving on to Solar de Vinho do Porto wine tasting centre and Wine Lodges of

Vila Nova da Gaia, on the south bank. Taylors, Cockburns, Sandeman, Croft, Offley and Symmington are all here, just a few meters up-stream from the magnificent Gustave Eiffel suspension bridge, in this city sometimes dubbed City of bridges. (It’s worth mentioning that the inner ring road system is remarkably comfortable to negotiate!)

So, back to those early local railway lines… trains….and partly why and when Golf came in..

Many of those people involved in the production of fortified wines came from Scotland and England and looked to continue their insatiable enthusiasm for golf and for which their country had early become famous. Their way out of the city was by train (as it was in those days for many early courses) and it was, therefore, hardly surprising that a group of them would band together to supervise the building of what is one of Europe’s earliest golf courses.

Royal Oporto Golf Club is the third oldest golf club in continental Europe after Pau and Antwerp. Steeped in tradition, the walls of the Clubhouse are covered with photos, faithfully recording its 127 years of history, dominated by a portrait of the Club’s first President, Mr. Charles Neville Skeffington, after whom the oldest recorded competition is named – and which has been played here every year, without interruption during either of the two World Wars– The Skeffington Cup..

Founded in 1890, the club is 17 km south of Porto and, while the actual designer remains unknown, the holes follow in a presumably natural progression around the dune land which was available. In true links

style the greens are small and testing; the opening four holes run alongside the beach, where the strength of on-shore winds may very much influence your final score!

Recommended accommodation is available at the beachfront Solverde Spa and Wellness Hotel, some 10 minutes’ drive away.

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The hotel has a Casino, together with those accompanying top-notch amenities you’d expect at a 5* facility – Spa and Wellness Centre (as the name indicates!) with 2 saltwater swimming pools, outdoor area, with beach-side pool, tennis courts, beach volley ball, mini-golf, football and children’s play area, all within some 20,000 m2 of gardens.

In 1936 came a new 9-hole layout, at Vidago (Chaves) – famous from ancient times for its curative and therapeutic spa waters.

The original McKenzie Ross design was laid out in the grounds of what was originally intended to be King Carlos’ Summer Palace (1908). Following recent, extensive restoration (which remained 100% sympathetic to and reminiscent of the original ‘Belle Époque’ style), member of Leading hotels of the World, Vidago Palace Hotel has become what many consider to be the Iberian Peninsula’s most luxurious Hotel and will certainly not disappoint even the most discerning of clients!

It offers fine dining, with meals served in what was originally the Palace ballroom (with its sprung floor for dancing and galleried balcony), thermal spa, 5 hydro and one indoor pool together with extensive facilities for conference and events.

Subsequently redesigned and upgraded by Cameron & Powell, the course was transformed to 18 holes, faithfully retaining the spirit of the original, wooded layout, combined with more open, undulating parkland, where the integration of elevated tees and greens and tee boxes built with stone walls typify the back nine. It includes a Golf Academy, driving range, chipping and two practice putting greens.

Estela (1988 – a Duarte Sotto-Mayor design) and which has matured with imperceptible ease into a

classic links course, matching many famous Scottish links courses in style. Maintained in superb condition, this is a prince among courses – The very terrain means it plays

‘firm and fast’ – the essential element which makes links golf endlessly challenging. Exposed fairways run along the shoreline, adjacent to the sea where the vagaries of the wind will always add an extra dimension to one’s game….As the Scots are reputed to say: “Nae wind, nae golf”!

(Footnote: Plans have been approved for the extension of the existing Clubhouse into an on-site Hotel – Who wouldn’t want to just fall out of bed onto the first tee in this stunning location?!)

There is, however, accommodation nearby at the Axis Ponte da Lima Golf Hotel ; be sure to take in the attractive town from which the name derives, en route….

Stroll across the (pedestrian) Roman bridge and enjoy a glass of something cool and refreshing in the square of the very attractive main town to the south side of the River Lima

Axis Ponte de Lima Golfe (1995) was a da Silva brothers’, challenging design. The front 9 holes (Quinta de Anquiäo) are decidedly hilly, while the back 9 (Quinta de Pias) descend to more benevolent terrain, more reminiscent of rolling parkland. These unique characteristics provide the perfect backdrop for an opportunity to relax and enjoy the game, while the lasting overall impression is that of the fabulous, surrounding Minho countryside which almost defies description!

Buggies are essential!

The onsite Ax is Ponte da Lima Golf & Resort Hotel is just a short walk or buggy drive away, providing 40 comfortable, modern rooms with clean lines, Spa, and saunas. heated indoor pool,

gymnasium, Turkish bath, 2 tennis courts and views out to the golf course. The Club House offers a range of services, such as Reception, golf shop and equipment hire, saunas, with a bar and restaurant and very pleasant outdoor Terrace, on which to relax with a welcome aperitif, before dinner!

Amarante (1997 – Quinta da Mavesa)) has proved a triumph in design for Jorge Santana da Silva. Working with 40 hectares of hilly land, he effectively created a par-68 test of golf of some 5,085 m. Decidedly not long by today’s standards, but never to be discounted out of hand for that!

Course management is unquestionably the watchword, where play is variously from raised tees across undulating fairways protected by bunkers, lakes – water comes decisively into play on the 3rd, 12th and 17th holes - and – on occasion, ‘out of bounds’. The natural topography tests skills of judgment, estimating how the rise and fall of the land will affect club selection. The Clubhouse is modern and elegant, with an extensive terrace from which to look out over the course below.

Stay at the enviable 5* ‘Casa da Calçada’ Relais et Châteaux Hotel, in Amarante which has views across the Ria Támega’ to the Convento de São Gonçalo on the opposite bank. This is a bijoux residence, with excellent cuisine.

The lasting impression is that of staying in a luxurious, private stately home! (Not unsurprisingly, the hotel is well patronized locally as an enviable venue for weddings -). There’s an outdoor swimming pool adjacent to an upper, rear terrace of the hotel’s small vineyard, whose yield is augmented by grapes supplied from their privately-owned estate nearby and which may be experienced in the wines available in Hotel’s bar and dining room!

Overall, Costa Verde has so very much of inestimable quality to offer – excellent, challenging golf courses with correspondingly high-end Hotel accommodation which will suit the most discerning of clients! Coupled with enviable gastronomy, world class regional wines, Porto and the Douro river Valley present the visitor with something quite unique in Portugal…..

It has to be said that the golf courses reviewed above are fairly well dotted about the Region, however, those involved in its promotion – Golf Courses, Hotels and local Tourism entities - are more than willing to bend over backwards to assist visitors with transfers…Bear in mind that it’s all very well to book a Hire Car, but, between – say – 4 people, using these services will mean you don’t have to worry about locating any particular course or hotel and can enjoy a welcome beer or glass of locally-produced wine before or after your game!

Refer to the Golf Concierge website at www.golfconcierge.pt (email: mail@golfconcierge.pt) and you will be able to access any and all information you may require regarding local transfers, together with full details concerning Oporto Golf Passes, for preferential rates for 3, 4 and 5 green fees at any/each of the courses referred to above.

Look into a Portuguese Dictionary and you will find the word ‘d’ouro’ defined as “gold”: cross-refer to an English Dictionary, where the third definition of the word “gold” is ‘its value’, whence came the expression ‘setting the gold standard’ – Without question, Porto’s Douro Valley has set the gold standard for golf and Tourism in the Region, offering a product which is second to none – quality of service, together with a reception offered with an expression of heartfelt genuineness rarely encountered nowadays… Small wonder then that recent statistics show Porto to have been voted top in a survey of

best European Destinations!

For comprehensive details, visit the following websites:-

Oporto GolfClub: www.oportogolfclub.com ogc@oportogolfclub.com

5* Hotel Solverde Spa & Wellness Centre: www.solverde.pt : reservashotel@solverde.pt

Vidago Golf Course and Hotel: www.vidagopalace.com reservations@vidagopalace.com

Estela Golf Course: www.estelagolf.pt geral@estelagolf.pt

Axis Golf Ponte de Lima: www.axishotelsgolfe.com reservas@axisgolfe.com

Axis Ponte de Lima Golf Hotel: www.axishotelsegolfe.com reservas@axisgolfe.com

Text: Sue Farmer IAGTO - IGTWA: EGTMA

Photos: Geoffrey Farmer and courtesy Hotels and Tourism bodies as mentioned in the text.