T H E B E S T o f t h e PA S T R Y C O M M U N I T Y Issue 2, AUGUST 2005

PASTRY’S BESTChocolate is not just chocolate

Recipes by Bellouet & Perruchon

Pastry Chef Profi les with Pierre St. Pierre and Bill Foltz

PASTICCERIA INTERNAZIONALEFor Chocolate Lovers

THURIES MAGAZINEChocolate: Step by Step

FOOD TRADE REVIEWTart Manufacturing with Pidy Gourmet

PASTRY ART & DESIGNManfred Schmidhuber

CHEFS EXPRESSLucky Tomatoes

DécorsMore than 100 products

ready and easy to usefor all your creations

“Façonnables”40 chocolate shells and crocant shells

easy to fill and to use

Pralinés and moreOld-fashioned pralinés, 60% fruits Pralinés,

Pure Piemont Gianduja,cocoa nibs, cocoa butter,...

Coveringchocolates

In blocs and “Minigrammes” (drops of ¼ g)High Cocoa Contents

“1ers Crus de Plantation”

3

ISSUE 2/AUGUST 2005

These magnifi cent chocolate bonbons come to us from MOF Chocolatier Pascal Brunstein, whose creativity and innovation is at the heart of PCB Création, a manufacturer of chocolate transfers, molds and decors in the Alsace region of France. Go to www.pcb-creation.fr for details and reci-pes.

Our Cover

9 Pasticceria InternazionaleFor Chocolate Lovers

17 Thuriès MagazineChocolate: Step by Step

20 Pastry Art & DesignManfred Schmidhuber

22 Food Trade Review Tart Manufacturing with Pidy Gourmet

24 Chefs Express Lucky Tomatoes

7 Chocolate is not just Chocolateby Ellane Culhane

13 Pastry Chef Profi le: Pierre St. Pierre

14 Recipes by Joël Bellouet and Jean-Michel Perruchon

16 Pastry Chef Profi le: Bill Foltz

28 Pastry Hotline with Valrhona’s Frédéric Bau

30 Calendar of Events

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17

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magazine excerpts

pastry’s best features14

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Hey, You’re back!You’ve opened up to the second issue of Pastry’s Best Magazine. Thank you. The response to our inaugural issue was overwhelming! It seems the concept of amassing the best content from different global publications has stricken a cord in the pastry community. We’ll try to keep it up!

In this issue, we are focusing on chocolate and the growth of this staple in all of our shops. The evolution in the appreciation and development of interesting chocolates

has hit an all-time high in our country and abroad. Just take the growth of chocolate museums (listed on page 7) and the unlimited of varietals and origin chocolates avail-

able in today’s marketplace, and you can appreciate the all-consuming enthusiasm for cocoa.

Our contributors in this issue are:

• THURIES MAGAZINE from France is a monthly magazine dedicated to the high end culi-nary professional. Edited by Yves Thuriès, MOF.

• PASTICCERIA INTERNAZIONALE from Italy is also a monthly that periodically offers an international version in English. Edited by Livia Chiriotti.

• PASTRY ART & DESIGN from the United States is a bi-monthly magazine published by the creators of Chocolatier magazine. Edited by Mark Kammerer.

• FOOD TRADE REVIEW is a British publication that covers all of the happenings in the overall culinary industry.

• CHEFS EXPRESS from the United States is a quarterly corporate magazine published by the Chef’s Warehouse. Edited by Sean Palmer.

Our contributing writers for this issue come from Seattle, with Ellane Culhane teaching us about chocolate, from Paris, recipes from MOFs Joël Bellouet and Jean-Michel Perruchon, and from London, Kelli Colaco reports on Valrhona’s Frédéric Bau. And by popular de-mand, there are enough recipes to write your menus until the next issue comes out!

We are especially thankful for the food distributors and manufacturers who are handing out this magazine to their customers. Please feel free to send us your feedback so that we can continuously improve PASTRY’S BEST MAGAZINE in ways that surpass your expectations.

Enjoy!

David KeePublisher

Editor’s Letter

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Publisher David KeeGraphics Outreach GraphicsPrinting Print SourceContributing Writers Kim Rothrock Paul Edward Ellane Culhane Pastry Advisors En-Ming Hsu Chris Northmore

To Advertize:Pastry’s Best MagazineP.O. Box 71442Newnan, Georgia 30271770-252-6377info@pastrynet.com

In collaboration with www.pastrynet.com

© Pastry’s Best Magazine 2005

Pastry’s Best Magazine is published quarterly by Pastry’s Best, LLC. All contents are copyright 2005, Pastry’s Best Magazine. All rights reserved. No portion of this issue may be copied, scanned, or reproduced in any manner without prior written consent from the Publisher. Unauthorized users will be billed appropriately for such use. This is a non-subscription maga-zine. Contact your local distributor for a copy.

Distributor ListAtlanta - European Imports (404-767-7655)Chicago - European Imports (773-227-0600)Detroit - Chef Source (734-480-2030)Las Vegas - Las Vegas Gourmet (702-261-0020)Los Angeles - Chefs Warehouse (323-581-7999)Miami - Chef Gourmet (305-722-0250) Minneapolis - Mirabella Foods (763-571-2780)New Orleans - Koerner Company (800-333-1913 )New York - Dairyland (718-842-8700) Harry Wils (201-770-1180) Eurosource Gourmet (973-857-6000)Orlando - Culinary Source (407-522-9099)Philadelphia - BK Enterprises (215-724-4040)Phoenix - European Imports (623-937-4100)Portland - Peterson Company (253-735-0313)San Francisco - Chefs Warehouse (510-627-0093)Seattle - Peterson Company (253-735-0313)Washington D.C. - Chefs Warehouse (866-381-7981)

Join the talk with pastry profession-

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Link up with some of the best sites on

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Chocolate “Chocolate is chocolate”, one might say, but recently chocolate has become the new focus of the “foodies” of the world. While chocolate is one of the world’s oldest culi-nary luxuries, exciting new trends are changing our view of this tradition. Originally the cocoa tree, Theobroma cacao linnea, came from Central America, where it was fi rst cul-tivated by the Mayan people. From the time the Spaniards brought the treat to Europe, in 1528, the taste for chocolate has spread throughout the world. Today, three varieties of cacao are grown around the planet within 20 degrees North and South of the equator. Criollo, the most delicately fl a-vored, Forestero, with high yield and robust fl avor and their hybrid, Trinitario, similar in aroma to the Criollo, and high in fat. When ripe, the cacao pods are hand picked and the beans are fermented and dried at the harvest site, after which they are sent to a manufacturer. The manufacturer roasts the beans, cracks them into cocoa nibs or grue, crushes the nibs into a paste, and extracts the cocoa butter to leave cocoa liquor. After adding sugar and milk powder for white and milk couvertures, cocoa butter is added – for couvertures, more than was originally in the press – and the product is conched (conching is a mechanical sort of kneeding which homogenizes the chocolate into a smooth, creamy liquid). Finally the chocolate, as we know it, is set into block or coin shapes and is ready for use. Until recently, the different types of beans harvested from all over the world were processed and blended to make

chocolate for baking and confectionary use with the goal of achieving a certain uniformity. Different lines of choco-late would have a unique fl avor profi le, but this would be the same year to year and all would be blends of cacao beans, with the primary being Forestero. Commodity chocolate is still produced in this way, with the advantage of uniformity of fl avor and texture: both the chocolatier and the consum-er can know what to expect. Recently, in addition to these old favorites, chocolate manufacturers are producing origin specifi c couvertures whose characteristics reveal the unique-ness of climate and cultivation in certain regions. Similar to coffee, which has become more individualized in both bean and roast style, chocolate is now available with more choices of fl avor and style. In the way that not all coffee is Folgers, not all chocolate is Hershey’s! Greater care is placed on processing these special couver-tures, from carefully choosing the beans to a higher quality processing and longer conching. For the true chocolate afi -cionado, these couvertures are delightful in texture and taste that vary according to the origin and style of each one. A simple chocolate tasting will reveal the uniqueness that each chocolate has to offer. The pastry chef and choco-latier can also take advantage of these couvertures in creat-

ing recipes that highlight the features of a certain origin, or use them to blend and create a unique product.

Origin chocolate is showing up more and more in the press and in cookbooks, and as is the case with

coffee, the consumer is anxious to experience the spectrum of fl avors available. Where chocolate

has always been a luxury item, Origin choco-late is the next step for the chocolate lover.

Highlight a chocolate tasting tray or an Origin couverture dessert

on your menu or in your case and

join the g r o w -i n g trend.

Chocolateis not justby Ellane Culhane,

Peterson Company, contributing writer.

6

The fi nished dark chocolate contains from 16% to 35% cocoa

powder, 15% to 50% sugar and 31% to 45% cocoa butter. The fi ner couvertures have add-ed cocoa butter, so that the product contains more than

was originally present in the in the bean. Cocoa butter has a crystalline structure, which is

what gives chocolate the familiar shine and snap. It is polymorphic which means it can crystallize in more than one form. Tempering is the process of working the cocoa

butter in the chocolate to the beta form that is stable and shiny. Cocoa butter

has a melting point near our body temperature, of about 95 degrees which means that it really does melt in

your mouth. So you can see the importance of cocoa butter in the chocolate experience!

As with other fats, cocoa butter is composed of different fatty acids. It has about 60% saturated fats, 35% monounsatu-rated fats and 3% polyunsaturated fats. Where saturated fats are usually associated with cholesterol, over forty years of research has shown that cocoa butter consumption does not raise blood cholesterol!

Until recently we could count on most European chocolate to be made with pure cocoa butter. But after a several years’ fi ght The European Union decided to allow up to 5% of al-ternative vegetable fat to products labeled “chocolate”. The argument in favor of added fats, led by English manufactur-ers, notably Cadbury, is based on the increased stability and reduced costs of other vegetable fats. The EU authorized added fats; Cocoa Butter Equivalents or CBEs, include palm oil, illipe fat and shea butter. These fats have higher melting points than cocoa butter, which helps keep the chocolate stable in hot climates. The CBEs are also up to fi ve times less expensive than cocoa butter. With a chocolate that con-tains 5% of CBE, it means up to 16% of the cocoa butter has been replaced.

Going forward we have to read labels as many of the leading chocolate manufacturers in Europe begin to offer products made with CBEs. Will our customers notice the difference? For some pastry chefs and chocolatiers, the principle of add-ing CBEs is the same as adding sugar or water to wine. Are we compromising quality for cost? Is chocolate made with pure cocoa butter worth the premium?

Featuring Chocolate Museums There are many museums worldwide dedicated only to choco-late. Most are found in Europe, so start planning your trip... Here’s a list:

Hershey Museum, Hershey, Pennsylvaniawww.hersheymuseum.com

Imhoff Stollwerck Museum, Cologne, Germanywww.schokoladenmuseum.de

Heindl Schokowelt Shokolademuseum, Vienna, Austriawww.heindl.co.at

Museum Chocolat Alprose, Caslano, SwitzerlandTel. 41. 091 611 88 88

Musée du Cacao et du Chocolat, Brussels, Belgiumwww.mucc.be

Choco-Story Museum, Brugges, Belgiumwww.choco-story.be

Museo de la Xocolata, Barcelona, Spainwww.museoxocolata.com

Cadbury World, Birmingham, Englandwww.cadburyworld.co.uk

Atelier Musée du Chocolat, Biarritz, FranceTel. 33.5.59.24.50.50

Museo Storico della Perugina, Perugina, ItalyTel. 75-52.76.635

Museo del Cioccolato Antica Norba, Norma, Italywww.anticanorba.com

Broc Chocolate Museum (Cailler-Nestle), Broc, SwitzerlandTel. 41.26.921.51.51

Prawer Chocolate Museum, Gramado, Brazilwww.prawer.com.br

Ishiya Chocolate Museum, Sapporo, Hokkaido, Japanwww.shiroikoibito.ishiya.co.jp

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we’re chocolate770-887-0201 • www.in2food.com

Master importer of chocolate couvertures, cups and decorations, fruit fi llings, glazes and sugars, cocoa butters and transfer sheets, nuts and tart shells.

Chocolate and ChilliPepper Infusion

dark chocolate 55% g 50rice starch g 50

potato flour g 50dark chocolate powder g 200

sugar g 70chilli pepper powder g 1

milk g 500cream g 135

Blend the ingredients in the cutter, with the exception of themilk. Then add the mixture to the hot milk at about 75°C andbring to boil. Using an immersion whisk bring the infusion to asmooth consistency, which should be slightly dense but able topass through the straw, which will be placed in the glass.Decorate with dried oranges and serve hot.

For chocolate lovers

Three recipes suggested by the Italian professional magazine

“Pasticceria Internazionale”, dedicated to chocolate and signed

by two Italian pastry chefs knowing how to mix tradition

with new trends.

Roberto RinaldiniRimini

Photo by Elisabetta Acquaviva

9

For n. 4 cakes, half sphere cm 16

DescriptionStart to prepare the filling in 14 cm diameter and, 3 cm tall rings.Put the dried fruits amaretto base, fill up to the top with light hazel-nut cream. Put it in the blast chiller and keep it aside.Assemble the cake in 16 cm diameter half spheres molds. Preparethe Cognac Bavarian cream and spread evenly in the mold; placein the frozen filling, level up, press up and freeze up until serving.Remove from the mold and spray with white sprinkle. Garnish with white chocolate and hazelnut decorations.

Dried fruit soft amaretto base

hazelnut powder g 120almond powder g 80

icing sugar g 200egg white g 120egg white g 120

sugar g 50

Sift well the powders with the icing sugar, mix with the first part ofthe egg whites and let it rest for a short while. Whip firmly the re-maining egg whites with the sugar and gently combine with theprevious mixture. Put into 14 cm diameter rings and cook in a180°C ventilated oven, for about 20 minutes, with open valve.

Baloon

Hazelnut praliné light cream

milk g 375sugar g 90

egg yolk g 240gelatin 160 Bloom g 10

hazelnut praliné g 360hazelnut paste g 120

cream 35% g 900

Cook à la rose the milk with the sugar and the yolks; add the softe-ned gelatin, the praliné and the hazelnut paste. Sift it all; let it cooland lighten with the whipped cream.

White chocolate and Cognac Bavarian cream

milk g 450egg yolk g 180

white chocolate 30% g 225gelatin 160 Bloom g 20

Cognac g 120cream 35% g 1,400

Prepare a custard in a double boiler, heating up the milk with theyolks to 85°C. When cooked, add the finely chopped chocolateand the softened gelatin. Let it warm down and add the Cognacemulsifying it all. Let it cool down and put the semi-thick cream.Use immediately.

White chocolate sprinkle

white chocolate g 500cocoa butter g 250

Mix, heat up to 32°C and keep the temperature for the whole time.

Matching drinksCognacBlack tea Toddy, Cognac with orange skin

In the next page, mango with milk chocolate and Fleur de Sel jam

is the one on the top. The other jams - pineapple, passion

fruit and lime; citrus flavored peaches;basil scented Amalfi lemons; black tea

Williams - have been conceived by Luca Mannori too

and the recipes are in his book “COME MUSICA

ELEMENTI DI PASTICCERIA”,published by Chiriotti Editori,

www.chiriottieditori.comor www.pasticceriainternazionale.com

Mango with milk chocolate and Fleur de Sel jamFor about 15 small 100 g jars

mango pulp g 1000sugar g 550

lemon juice g 3540% milk chocolate g 300

Fleur de Sel g 2

Mix everything together, apart from the chocolate and the Fleur de Sel. Boil a first time. Add the chopped chocolate, mix, cover and setaside in the refrigerator for 12 hours. Next day resume cooking, constantly skimming and checking at 66° Brix. Remove from heat, addthe Fleur de Sel, mix and put in jars immediately. Keep in a cool place out of light.

Luca MannoriPrato

Photos by Giancarlo Bononi

12

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13

Pierre St-PierreExecutive Pastry ChefFairmont Washington, D.C.

Formerly of:Ritz-Carlton, New OrleansRitz-Carlton, Huntington (Pasadena)Ritz-Carlton, Buckhead (Atlanta)Fairmont Jasper Park LodgeBorn: Ville LaSalle, Quebec, CanadaTraining/Education: George Brown College, Toronto, OntarioSouthern Alberta Institute of Technology, Calgary, AlbertaFrench Pastry School, ChicagoEcole Le Notre, Paris, FranceNotter School of Arts, Orlando, FloridaCompetitions:1996 British Columbia Chef’s Grand Salon Culinaire Gold Medal - Showpiece 1999 Southern Pastry Classic [Grand Champion] Gold Medal - Showpiece and Cake, Cold Dessert Silver Medal - Hot Dessert

Strawberry FieldsMilk Chocolate Lavender Honey FlanMilk 1 LiterSugar 200gmExtra Brut Cocoa Powder 15gmSalt 5gmBourbon Vanilla Extract 5mlEggs 8 eachMaracaibo Criolait Chocolate 300gmLavender Honey as neededMethod:Mix sugar and cocoa powder together. Scald sugar mixture, milk, vanilla, and salt. Pour over chocolate and stir until com-pletely incorporated. Temper in eggs and strain the mixture through a china cap. Warm the Lavender honey in a micro-wave. Pour a small layer into the bottom of the glassware.Top with warm fl an mixture. Bake at 200F in a convection oven until set. Leave to cool in a refrigerator.

Red Berry GeléeFresh Strawberries, stemmed & cut in half 750gmFresh Raspberries 750gmGranulated Sugar 100gmBourbon Vanilla Bean, cut & scraped 1 eachFresh Orange/Lemon ¼ eachFresh Mint 1 long sprigSimple Syrup as neededBronze Leaf Gelatin, bloomed as neededMethod:Place all the ingredients in a stainless steel bowl and cover

the bowl with plastic wrap. Place the bowl on a hot Bain Marie and cook until all the juices are released from the berries. Place the mixture in china cap to separate the juices but do not squeeze the mixture as this will cloud the juices. Discard the berry pulp.Adjust the sugar of the juices with the simple syrup to desired sweetness. For every 500ml of juice, add 7gm of gelatin leaves to the hot juices. Cool mix-ture down to room temperature then add a layer to the top of the cold fl ans and place them back into refrigerator to set.

Wild Strawberry Milkshake Bourbon Vanilla Ice Cream 250gmWhole Milk 130ml

Wild Strawberry Puree 225gmMethod:Place all the ingredients in a blender and mix.

Milk Chocolate ChantillyHeavy Cream 400gmMaracaibo Criolait Chocolate, melted 275gmMethod:In the bowl of an electric mixer, beat the cream on high speed until stiff peaks just begin to form. Gently fold in the warm melted chocolate just until combined. Keep chilled in the refrigerator until needed.

Final Assembly• Flan and Gelée set in desired glassware• Wild Strawberry Milkshake• Milk Chocolate Chantilly• Chocolate Butterfl y Tuile • Chocolate CigarettePour the milkshake onto the layer of gelée. Garnish with a quenelle of milk chocolate chantilly and décor. Serve immediately.

Chef Pr o f i l eChef Pr o f i l e

Le Safari Au Cafe

14

La Tarte SouffleeRecipe for 3 tarts: 18 cm diameter and 3.5 cm high

BASIC (SHORTCRUST) DOUGH:700 G of flour type 55500 G of butter 135 G of milk 30 G of egg yolks 40 G of caster sugar 20 G of salt totalWeight: 4160 GMethod:With the paddle, mix the butter cut into pieces with the fl our, until you get a sandy mass. Add all the other ingredients milk, eggs, caster sugar and salt mixed together and knead slowly with the hook, don’t work a lot. The paste is stored in the refrigerator 5°C. It is better to let it rest for 24 hours . It can be kept several days in the fridge provided it is covered with a plastic fi lm to prevent crust.

PISTACHIO PAIN DE GENES:60 G of pistachio paste “Trablit“ 375 G of raw almond paste 50%75 G of egg yolks 300 G of whole eggs75 G of flour T 5540 G of starch 115 G of butterMethod:With the paddle, mix the pistachio paste “ Trablit “ and the almond paste with the egg yolks then the whole eggs (gradually). Make it go up with the whip up to the ribbon. Add to the Maryse the fi ltered mixture of fl our and starch then the butter melted at 50°C. Spread out within a biscuit framework with 60 X 40 cm by 1 cm high over sheet of “ silpat “ and cook at the ventilated oven, approximately 10 minutes at 180°C. Let it cool and cut out discs 16 cm in diam-eter. Reserve for the assembly of tarts.

PISTACHIO AND WHITE CHEESE 350 G of milk350 G of white cheese 40% MG 60 G of pistachio paste “ Trablit “75 G of starch 50 G of caster sugar 1 G of salt flower 75 G of butter 175 G of egg white 100 G of sugarMethod:In a thick pan, mix the pistachio paste “ Trablit “ with a white cheese using a maryse. Add the milk, the starch, the caster sugar, salt and butter and whip while heating until boiling. Add the egg white at once whipped with the caster sugar. Draw up at once.

COMPOTEE OF STRAWBERRIES 250 G of strawberries pulp50 G of syrup at 30 ° B 5 G of lemon juice 150 G of wild strawberries 200 G of strawberries (gariguettes )25 G of Cointreau 60%VMethod:Cut the strawberries (gariguettes) and mix the remainder of theingredients. Let it macerate two hours minimum before using.

Final AssemblyCook white, with cores pie base 3.5cm high. Leave the circle of cooking. Furnish with a very fi ne layer of pistachio and white cheese. Put a pistachio pain de Gene disc then garnish with compotée of strawberries (220 G for 1 tart 18 cm diameter). Cover and smooth pistachio and white cheese. Gild and cook in the ventilated oven 175°C during approximately 20 minutes. After cooling, decorate with strawberries, pistachios.

Recipe for 3 desserts: 1 X 16 cm - 1 X 18 cm - 1 X 20 cm out of 4.5 cm high

COFFEE SAFARI BISCUIT:500 G of raw almond paste 50%500 G of whole eggs30 G of coffee paste ”Trablit“ 100 G of flour T55 10 G of starch 80 G of butter Weight: 1220 GMethod:Mix at a mixer, with the paddle, the almond paste with the whole eggs (add them gradually one by one). Whip up average speed during 15 minutes then add the fi ltered fl our with the starch and then the hot melted butter and coffee paste “ Trablit “ Cook in the ventilated oven at 170°C, during approximately 8 minutes.

HAZELNUT CRUSTY: 40 G of dark chocolate semi bitter 58% 70 G of hazelnut praline70 G of hazelnut paste 70 G of paillete feuilletine Weight: 250 GMethod:Melt the semi bitter dark chocolat at 35 °C approximately, add the hazelnut praline, hazelnut paste and fi nally the paillete feuilletine. Spray the mixture in circles. Place the whole at the refrigerator. To reserve for the assembly.70 G = 12 cm diameter / 80 G = 14 cm diameter / 90 G = 16 cm diameter

VANILLA PECAN MOUSSE:40 G of caster sugar20 G of water70 G of egg yolks 100 G of caster sugar 30 G of water 50 G of egg white 5 G of gelatine sheets 300 G of whipped cream 12 G of liquid vanilla “ Trablit “ 180 G of caramelized pecan nutsWeight: 644 G (with rehydrated gelatine)Method:In a copper poêlon, make a parfait base, cook 40 G of sugar and 20 G of water with 121°C, pour on the egg yolks and whip up until complete cooling. Make Italian meringue by cooking 100 G of caster sugar with 30 G of water at 121°C, pour on the egg whites and whip up until complete cooling. Mix the parfait base with the melted gela-tine, (softened beforehand in cold water), the Italian meringue, add the whipped cream, the liquide vanilla “Trablit “ and the caramelized pécan nuts.

CHOCOLATE SPRAYING:200 G of cocoa butter 200 G of milk chocolate 37% Method:Melt the cocoa butter at 40°C, add the milk chocolate and use at 35°C approximately.

CHOCOLATE COFFEE MOUSSE:100 G of milk 100 G of heavy cream 40 G of caster sugar75 G of egg yolks15 G of coffee paste “ Trablit “ 300 G of milk chocolate 37 % 100 G of dark chocolate 64% 330 G of whipped creamWeight: 1055 G - continued on next page

15

(continued from previous page)

Method:Make an custard cream with the milk, the heavy cream and the egg yolks and the caster sugar. Cook the whole mixture at 85°C. Add the paste of coffee “ Trablit “ and mix, pour on the chopped chocolate and incorporate the whipped cream.

Final AssemblyLine the walls of a 4.5 cm high cake ring with a rhodoïd fi lm. Place a layer of coffee safari bis-cuit 3.5 cm high and at the bottom a disk of coffee safari biscuit. Lay out a slice of hazelnut crusty, on the coffee safari biscuit , garnish up to middle height with vanilla pécan mousse and fi nish with chocolate coffee mousse right to the top. Freeze and smooth again.

DECORS AND FINISHINGSpray the dessert decorated with a coffee safari biscuit triangle with the chocolat spraying. Finish the decoration with crusty fi lo, dried vanilla bean.

Recipes courtesy Joel Bellouet

and Jean-Michel Perruchon,

founder and instructor at

Bellouet Conseil, a pastry school in Paris, France,

and publishers of many great

pastry books. For more infor-

mation, go to

www.bellouet.web.com.

Jean-Michel Perruchon

Joël Bellouet

16

Bill FoltzBill Foltz is a graduate with hon-ors of both Hocking College with an Associate Degree in Culinary Arts and Sullivan College with an Associate Degree in Baking and Pastry Arts. Over the years he has gained experience in cater-ing, pastry shops, and large his-toric Resorts. He has won many awards at local, national and in-ternational food competitions. In 1993, at the Culinary Salon in Cincinnati, Ohio, he received a gold medal for a pastillage cen-terpiece, a silver medal for his pastry display, as well as the spe-

Hazelnut Cappuccino TorteChef Pr o f i l eChef Pr o f i l e

Havana Meringue:2-8” layers9.3 oz / 266 g. egg whites8 oz. / 228 g. sugar8 oz. / 228 g. hazelnut crunch 1.8 oz / 53 g. cocoa powder.2 oz / 5 g. cinnamon.7 oz / 19 g. bread flourMethod:Coarsely grind hazelnuts, mix with cocoa, cinnamon, and fl our. Whip whites and sugar to stiff peaks. Fold nut mixture into meringue. Spread thin into 8” square pans lined with paper. Bake 365 F. for 30 min.

Hazelnut Crunch:3.2 oz. / 90 g. sugar1 oz. / 30 g. water.7 oz. / 19 g. cocoa butter5.9 oz. / 169 g. whole hazelnutsMethod:Boil sugar and water in sauté pan. Add ha-zelnuts, stir until caramelized. Add cocoa butter, stir and spread out on parchment lined pan. Cool.

Orange Gelee: 4.4 oz. / 125 g. Mandarin puree2 oz. / 57 g. sugar.3 oz. / 7 g. pectin.14 oz. / 4 g. gelatin sheetMethod:Bring puree, sugar, and pectin to a boil. Add bloomed gelatin sheet. Cool.

Espresso white chocolate mousse:.2 oz. / 4 g. gelatin sheet.7 oz. / 20 g. water 4.8 oz. / 138 g. milk 6 oz. / 175 g. 30% white chocolate couverture6.6 oz. / 187 g. heavy cream1.4 oz. / 40 g. espresso bean, crushed

Method:Bloom gelatin and water. Scald milk, steep beans for 5 minutes in milk. Dissolve gelatin in milk, strain with chinois. Add hot milk to chocolate, cool. Whip cream to soft peaks, fold chocolate into cream. Mold immediately.

Chocolate Cream:1- 8” layer4.4 oz. / 125 g. heavy cream4.4 oz. / 125 g. milk1.8 oz. / 50 g. yolk.9 oz. / 25 g. sugar3.3 oz. / 95 g. 64% chocolate couvertureMethod:Heat cream and milk. Temper yolk and sugar into milk mix. Cook to 83 C. Strain and add chocolate. Beurre mix smooth. Mold immediately.

Crunch base:1- 8” base3.5 oz. / 100 g. sugar2.2 oz. / 63 g. butterPinch / .8 g. salt2.2 oz. / 63 g. ground hazelnuts.9 oz. / 25 g. cake flourMethod:Cream all together, chill, roll to 1/8” thick. Bake 350 F till golden.

Final AssemblyPlace an 8” square ring on a parchment lined sheet pan. Put the baked base on bottom. Brush with melted chocolate and lay the fi rst layer of meringue on top. Pour the melted chocolate cream on top of the cake, let set. Spread a thin layer of mousse, let set. Pour a thin layer of orange gelee, let set. Place the second layer of meringue on top. Spread the rest of the mousse in the ring. Freeze cake, demold, cut into cubes and spray with a velvet chocolate fi nish.

cial judges’ award for overall display. At the 1996 International Hotel & Motel Food Show in NYC he received a gold medal and special judges award from the French Consulate in Paris for “Best Pas-tillage Showpiece”. Again, in NYC, in 1998 he received a gold medal and special judges’ award from the Philanthropique Society for “Best Pastill-age Showpiece”. In 2001 he competed in the U.S. Pastry championship. Again in 2002, he received the award for “Best Showpiece”, and in 2003 and 2004 he placed second overall. Also in 2003, he was a team member in the National Pastry Team Championship in Las Vegas. He is now working as Executive Pastry Chef of Sagamore Resort in Bolton Landing, NY.

17

Chocolate MousseIngredients: for approx. 3 entremetsCrème anglaise: 200 g - Milk3 – Egg yolks25 g – Sugar2 – Soaked and pressed gelatin sheets (5g)300 g - Dark Couverture (70 %)400 g - Whipped Cream

Procedure:Prepare a crème anglaise with the above ingredients: off the heat, add the gelatin, pour the couverture, mix and let cool. Then incorporate the whipped cream and use immediately.

DacquoiseIngredients: for approx. 3 entremets120 g – Whole Almonds115 g – Confectioner’s sugar20 g - Flour200 g – Egg white (7 eggs)80 g - Sugar

Green Tea Chocolate Heart

by Jean-Francois Arnaud

STEP SIX:Fill in with the green tea mousse, ending with the dacquoise.

STEP ONE:Spray the mold with red cocoa butter.

STEP TWO:Fill the biscuit mix in the circles, spreading the crushed raspberries, then bake.

STEP THREE:In a mixer, combine the whole almonds with sugar and fl our.

STEP FOUR:Infuse the green tea in the sweetened cream.

STEP FIVE:Layer the mold with the chocolate mousse.

Set Up:Spray an entremets heart mold (available from PCB Creation) with red cocoa butter and an even mixture of dark chocolate and cocoa butter. Let it set. Fill bottom half with the chocolate mousse, layer with the raspberry chocolate biscuit, fill other half with the green tea mousse. Close the mold with a layer of dacquoise. Freeze.

Finishing andPresentation:Unmold the entremets on a sablé (shortdough) base. Décor: isomalt eggs and crystallized sugar, chocolate strings and gold leaf.

Recommended wine: Grand Marnier. Serve very cool or with ice cream, if preferred.

(continued on page 19)

18

Éclosionby Patrick Lasseigne

STEP SIX:Install a sphere on the half-sphere mold and continue the construction.

STEP ONE:Spray an egg mold with chocolate (50/50 mix Couverture with cocoa butter).

STEP TWO:With the help of a spatula dipped in dark couverture, create irregular stripes from bottom to top in each egg.

STEP THREE:Turn over the mold and take out excess couverture.

STEP FOUR:Pour milk couverture on an acetate sheet.

STEP FIVE:Cut out different triangles, and let set.

Procedure:On a half-moon base, lay a sphere, then different molded and ‘cracked’ eggs (see film photo).

Decor:milk chocolate arabesques (see film photo).

in2 foodtel: 770-887-0201fax: 770-887-0086

www.in2food.com

Crimson RedCardinal RedMoulin Rouge RedSunrise OrangePopsicle OrangeCoral OrangeGilded YellowAureolin YellowReef GreenCarnival GreenTropical GreenKey West GreenJade GreenIndigo BlueRegal BlueMediterranean BlueAqua BlueHarvest PurpleAlabaster WhiteEclipse BlackChocolate BrownTuscan BrownSahara TanDusty RosePassion PinkCherry Blossom Pink

Red GarnetRed RubyOrange CarnelianOrange GarnetAmberYellow CitrineYellow TopazGreen SpheneGreen PeridotGreen EmeraldGreen CrystalTurquoiseAquamarineBlue Lapis

Rose SatinGarnet SatinCopper SatinCaramel Satin (Bronze)Super Gold SatinSoft GoldChrome SatinLight Silver SatinSilver SatinWhite Satin Antique Gold SatinBlue SatinMint SatinPale Green SatinForest Green SatinCosmic Pink SatinCosmic Green SatinApricot SatinGold LusterPeach LusterLavender LusterGreen LusterGold Green LusterPale Eggplant LusterBlue LusterPink LusterSilver Sparkle

Custom Color Blending Available

Pearl RedPearl GoldPearl GreenPearl BluePearl OrangePearl PurplePearl Silver

Blue SapphireBlue TopazPurple AmethystWhite DiamondBlack OnyxPink QuartzOpalGoldPlatinumSilverCopperBronzeAntique GoldBrass

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CalendarJuly 16-20IFT Annual Food ShowNew Orleans, LAwww.ift.org

July 30 – August 3ACF National ConventionSan Antonio, Texaswww.acfchefs.org

August 6-8Louisiana Foodservice ExpoNew Orleans, LAwww.lra.org

August 20-22Western Foodservice & Hospitality ExpoLos Angeles, CAwww.westernfood-expola.com

September 9-11Florida Restaurant ShowOrlando, Floridawww.fraexpo.com

September 11-13 National Candy ShowPhiladelphia, PAwww.rcaphila.com

October 8-12ANUGA Food ShowCologne, Germanywww.anuga.com

October 21,22 World Chocolate Masters CompetitionBrussels, Belgiumwww.barry-callebaut.com

October 22-25Salon du ChocolatParis, Francewww.chocoland.com

November 10-137th Annual Chocolate ShowNew York, NYwww.chocoland.com

January 22-24, 2006Fancy Food ShowSan Francisco, California www.specialtyfood.com

February 19-21, 2006Canadian International Food and Beverage Show Toronto, Ontariowww.crfa.ca

Magazineswww.pastrysbest.comwww.pasticceriainternazionale.itwww.thuries.fr/magazinewww.foodtradereview.co.ukwww.pastryartanddesign.comwww.chefswarehouse.com

Advertiserswww.cluizel.comwww.pidygourmet.com www.dairylandonline.comwww.chefrubber.comwww.clarodgourmet.comwww.in2food.com

30

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(continued from page 17)

Procedure:In a Robot-Coupe, mix the almonds with the confection-er’s sugar and the flour, incorporating this mixture with the egg whites that have been whipped firm with the sugar. Immediately fill 18cm cake rings with this and bake at 325 degrees for approx. 20 minutes; let cool and cut in a heart shape.

Raspberry Chocolate BiscuitIngredients: for approx. 3 entremets3 – Egg Whites30 g - Sugar1 – Egg Yolk75 g – Melted Couverture 20 g - Butter20 g – Almond Flour90 g – Crushed Raspberries

Procedure:Whip the egg whites, add the sugar, then an egg yolk, the couverture melted with butter, then, incorporate the al-mond flour. Fill 16 cm cake rings, sprinkling the crushed raspberries. Cook in the oven at 350 degrees for approx. 10 minutes; let cool and cut in a heart shape.

Green Tea MousseIngredients: for approx. 3 entremets200 g - Cream60 g - Sugar6 g – Green Tea2 ½ - Soaked and pressed gelatin sheets (6.25g)200 g – Whipped Cream

Procedure:Heat the cream with the sugar (at 180 degrees); add and infuse the green tea for a few minutes, sift onto the melted gelatin. Let cool, incorporate the whipped cream, and use immediately.

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pastryA R T & D E S I G N

Schmidhuberm a n f r e d

S i g n a t u r eP

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: JO

HN

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HE

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MANFRED A. SCHMIDHUBER, Executive Pastry Chef, Aladdin Resort and Casino, Las Vegas, NV.formerly of: Caesar’s Palace, MGM Grand, Las Vegas, NV.

TRAINING: Johann Straus Konditorei, Salzburg, Austria.

FAVORITE DESSERT OF YOUR OWN CREATION: The Sampler Plate. “It has a selection of edible fl owers and high-end chocolate and sugar decorations.”

HOBBIES: Skiing, water skiing, biking and swimming.

FAVORITE INGREDITENT: Chocolate. “You can pour it, shape it, mold it; it’s very versatile.”

WHAT IS THE BEST PART OF THE PASTRY BUSI-NESS? “You can create your own taste and style, from classic to modern. It’s all aboutimagination.”

THE ONE THING YOU WISH YOU KNEW ABOUT THE INDUSTRY? “The long hours and never being off on holidays.”

WHAT’S THE BEST PART OF BEING A PASTRY CHEF? “When customers appreciate the des-serts and showpieces I create.”

DESCRIPTION OF BUSINESS: Hotel restaurant, catering operation, banquet facilities, upscale and casual cuisine.

NUMBER OF PASTRY STAFF: 21.

NUMBER OF DESSERT MENU ITEMS: 200.

TRI-CHOCOLATE PATÉ

Yield: 4 servings

White chocolate paté:6 oz/170 g white couverture, finely chopped1 oz/28 g unsalted butter.5 oz/14 g crème de cocoa1 oz/28 g heavy cream

In a medium bowl over a double boiler, melt white chocolate with butter and crème de cocoa. Stir in heavy cream. Place in piping bag and pipe into bot-tom third of silicone demi-sphere molds.

Raspberry paté:3 oz/85 g white couverture, finely chopped1 oz/28 g heavy cream1 oz/28 g unsalted butter3 large egg yolks3 oz/85 g granulated sugar .5 oz/14 g water2 oz/57 g raspberry purée1 oz/28 g eau de framboise

1. Melt white chocolate, cream and butter over a double boiler. 2. Meanwhile, whip egg yolks and sugar over double boiler until yolks are light and fl uffy and have tripled in volume. Fold yolks into chocolate mixture; add water, raspberry purée and framboise. Pour into piping bag and pipe on top of White Chocolate Paté layer, in second third of mold.

Mango paté:3 oz/85 g white couverture1 oz/28 g heavy cream1 oz/28 g unsalted butter3 oz/85 g egg yolks3 oz/85 g granulated sugar.5 oz/14 g water3 oz/85 g mango purée

1. Heat white chocolate, cream and butter over a double boiler until chocolate is melted. 2. Meanwhile, whip egg yolks and sugar over double boiler until yolks are light and fl uffy and have tripled in volume. Fold yolks into chocolate mixture, add wa-ter and mango purée. Pour into piping bag and pipe on top of Raspberry Paté layer, in fi nal third of mold.

Assemby:

Chocolate-cocoa butter mix (50-50%)Pulled sugar spirals

Unmold paté trio domes and spray with chocolate-co-coa butter mix. Place on plate and garnish with cubes of fresh mango and pulled sugar spirals. 20

A world of ready-to-fi ll pastry productsProducts:• Puff pastry shells & tarts• Sweet, neutral & chocolate tartlets• Cream horns• Cream puffs & éclairs• Waffl e dough tulips

Advantages:• Products only need dry storage… no freezer space needed• Shelf life 6 to 9 months• Save costly labor time by using ready-to-fi ll PIDY products

PIDY Inc.90 Inip Drive

Inwood, NY 11096Tel: 516 239 6057Fax: 516 239 9306

Email: rvanoudenhove@pidygourmet.comwww.pidygourmet.com

21

THURIES MAGAZINECuisine Trilogy

PASTICCERIA INTERNAZIONALESicilian Cassata

DOBLA MAGAZINEThe New Asian Way

PASTRY ART & DESIGNYoni Morales

CHEF EXPRESSThe Magic of Michel Cluizel

T H E B E S T o f t h e PA S T R Y C O M M U N I T Y Issue 1, MAY 2005

PASTRY’S BESTEn-Ming Hsu and The 2005 World Cup

A truly international magazine for the US Market. We reach pastry chefs

the old fashion way:face-to-face.

IT’S A FREE MAGAZINE! • An exclusive and highly qualifi ed readership.• Volume publishing based on demand.Did we say it’s FREE?• High content-to-ads ratio.• Each issue is entirely published on the web at

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22

Food Trade Review This feature looks at how a family bakery in a Belgian market town came to create a whole new industrial dimension to the world of patisserie. The family was Dehaeck, the town was Ypres, and their industrial patisserie production eventually gave rise to the acronymic company name of PIDY – Patisserie Industrielle Dehaeck Ypres. Company founder Andre Dehaeck was an enterprising young man back in 1967 when he worked at the family patisserie and bakery. As well as bak-ing the pastries required for his patissiers to fi ll, he found a ready market for gift packs of unfi lled pastries which were purchased by tourists visiting the battlefi elds surrounding this once war-torn Flanders town. In time, as word spread of Dehaeck pastries, enquiries started to come in from wholesalers wishing to sell the products in other parts of Belgium. The orders followed and Pidy had arrived. To serve this embryonic market for empty pastry shells (or “ready-to-fi ll” as we now call them) the fi rst dedicated industrial production unit was created in a bakery of 520m2. Compare this with the present-day Pidy Ypres factory of 10,000m2 (below) which is one of three Pidy Group industrial bakeries located in Belgium, France and the United States with a combined area of 23,000m2 . With annual production now close to three hundred million pieces, some degree of specialization is necessary so each bakery is responsible for specifi c pastry types. Within the company’s principal domestic mar-kets of Belgium and France the main volume line is the range of traditional bouchées and vol au vents which come off the end of the continuous tunnel oven at a rate of 18,000 per hour. These are all produced in Belgium at the Ypres bakery together with other puff pastry products made using the “French method” of ex-truding a layer of shortening between two sheets of raw dough. By successive lamination, thousands of leaves are built up to produce the “mille feuille” which gives the best quality French feuilletee patisserie its “lighter than air” character. The scaling of traditional patisserie techniques from the Dehaeck family bakery to industrial production methods is an area where Pidy, as innova-tors of this type of product, have been particularly successful and has led

Selection of Pidy pastry cases – many of the original prod-

ucts still feature in the current assortment.

ABOVE: Pidy’s 10,000m2 bakery at Ypres (known as Ieper in Flemish).BELOW: Continuous tunnel ovens with capacity for 18,000 units per hour

to the creation of a successful stand alone industrial engineering company called Dewilde NV which is also based at Ypres, opposite the main Pidy bakery. The other main European bakery is located in France, which very conveniently ad-joins the Franco-Belgian border at Halluin only a matter of 25 kilometres away from the group headquarters at Ypres. There are fi ve main production lines at Pidy Halluin, each specializing respectively in choux dough, short crust pastry, pressed puff pastry tartlets, genoise sponges and “spiral-wound” products such as cream horns. In the past, as a result of acquisitions and green-fi eld investments, there were other Pidy bakeries in France but over recent years production has been centralized at the company’s Halluin site to achieve optimum benefi ts from what has become a highly-automated and capital intensive production process.

23

Succesive laminations produce the traditional “mille feuille”

LEFT: Production of pressed puff pastry savoury tartlets at Pidy Halluin bakery in northern France. RIGHT: Continuous automatic production has virtually eliminated direct labour on the choux production line. BELOW: Pre-coating shortcrust pastry with a moisture barrier adds signifi cantly to post-fi lling shelfl ife and eating quality.

In full, Pidy now make a comprehensive range of pastry types including: • mini party food carriers (neutral and sweet) • puff pastry bouchees and vol au vents (individual pastry shells) • choux buns, éclairs and profi teroles of any size • blind-baked neutral tartlets and quiches from 1.5” up to 9” • genoise sponges plain and chocolate • sweet short crust tartlets and tart shells from 1.75” to 11” • puff pastry roulets and cream horns As well as the manufacturing innovations developed by Pidy, one key feature of their industrial pastry-shell production is the long shelf-life of up to twelve months on the fi nished products. This compares with the few days shelf-life normally expected on fresh-baked pastry. The difference in time for spoilage to occur is a function of moisture content, and whereas fresh pastry would typically have a moisture content of 18%, the Pidy products undergo a further dehydration process after baking to reduce the moisture level signifi cantly below 9%; the point at which molds can no longer develop. This is obviously essential to cover time spent in the distribution chain. Once the products are fi lled, the pastry rehydrates to a balancing level by absorb-ing water from the fi lling (dependent on the moisture content of the fi lling) and then the clock starts ticking again as for a fresh product. On highly absorbent products, such as sweet short crust tartlets, it is possible to order the products pre-coated with an internal moisture barrier which slows down the rate of absorption, and in this way extend the shelf-life before the pastry becomes too soft. Although Pidy originally developed their range for domestic consumption in Bel-gium and France, increasingly the benefi ts of convenience and consistency have been identifi ed fi rstly by the catering industry and then by industrial food manufacturers. Back in 1968, Pidy started exporting products to the United States. The fi rst contacts with American distributors happened at the ANUGA Food Show in Köln – Germany. After years of increased demand by the American market, Pidy decided to start their own distribution company in the United States. Pidy was fi rst incorporated in Chicago back in 1989 and in 1992 Pidy moved to a larger warehouse in Dayton NJ. In 1995 Pidy acquired a pastry shell manufacturer called “Gourmet Pastry Shells” located in Inwood NY. Next to the wide range of “ready to fi ll” products imported from Belgium and France, this acquisition enabled the company to produce locally products perfectly adapted to the American taste. In 1998 Pidy Inc. moved to a much larger factory in the industrial area of Inwood, to cope with the increasing demand of locally produced specialities. Since opening in the US, the company has established a leading presence both in the catering and food manufacturing sectors. The catering sector is serviced through regional foodservice distributors. Orders are shipped from our warehouse in Inwood NY. In the food manufacturing sector, Pidy have built successful working relationships with key industry partners large and small, working together on a project-by-project basis to supply major retail and catering customers with fi nished products ranging from party-food to fresh fruit tartlets. As well as supplying products from the standard range, there are opportunities for adapting recipes to meet customers’ individual requirements, and where volumes justify, to consider investing in new tooling to create bespoke prod-ucts. Acceptance by US customers has been facilitated by the IFS and BRC Higher Level accreditation at both the bakeries in Belgium and France. The production facility in In-wood has been indoctrinated into a custom Quality System Audit, administered by AIB International, which encompasses recognized global system requirements. The company also has considerable expertise in the area of packaging – gained from over thirty years of shipping fragile products around the world in more than 30 countries – and free technical support can be provided in that area. For standard prod-ucts, many types of plastic trays can be supplied from existing molds and by using the same tray for trans-shipment can result in signifi cant savings on labor and packaging waste costs. It is a main aim of Pidy to provide not just the product but full technical support. A team of specialists can be called upon where consultation is required, and commercial confi dentiality is guaranteed. Pidy is no longer simply a mass producer. The company can also make custom products based on the customer’s specifi cation. In this time of globalization, Pidy’s vocation is to become a true partner—your creative partner.

PIDY Inc.90 Inip DriveInwood, NY 11096

Tel: 516 239 6057Fax: 516 239 9306rvanoudenhove@pidygourmet.com www.pidygourmet.com

HEN LUCKY MARCELLI WAS 21, SHEand her sister Joyce were singers in a showband in Atlantic City. Having been dis-covered by a Japanese company the sisterswere preparing for a six month perform-ing contract in Japan when they received

news that their beloved grandmother was dying from cancerand had a only a few months to live. The girls stopped intheir tracks, and moved to Florida to nurse their grand-mother until she died. While in Florida, the girls being NewEnglanders, rejoiced in a Saturday ritual of picking dazzlingripe tomatoes. Little did Lucky know that this appreciationwould result in changing the course of her life forever.

While in Florida, the girls began a Saturday ritual of pickingtomatoes in neighboring fields. The access to these gemsnine months out of the year was something the girls grew tolove. Little did Lucky know that this ritual would result inchanging the course of her life.

A plan for a trip to New York City to visit their mom com-bined with their Dad’s keen business sense is what helped tosteer them into the business of tomatoes. Their dad suggest-ed to them that Instead of flying to New York, why not drivea truck and take a load of fresh tomatoes with them to sellto chefs? This would pay for the trip and they might make alittle extra money for themselves. At the time, they knew nothing about New York City andvery little about tomatoes or produce, but relying on the

w

the woman behind the world’s best beefsteaks

Photographs by Sean J. Palmer

BY KELLI COLACO

24

25

dependable intuition and imagination of theirfather, they arrived in New York City inNovember with a truck full of fresh tomatoes.Since the local growing season on the WestCoast had long since past, the chefs wereamazed and wanted to know where they gotthese wonderful tomatoes at that time of year!

“In the beginning we were not thinking of thisas a "business", we were just thinking, whattomato would we like to have for dinner thatnight, so we would pick ripe tomatoes becausethose were the ones we wanted to eat, neverthinking that we were going to drive them athousand miles to sell them.”

After a few months of many long nights on theroad, sleeping on the floor of her mother’sapartment and getting the tomatoes to chefsthe best way they could, they bought their firstdelivery truck. Lucky began driving arounddelivering in NYC, building a customer basewhile her brother Alan and sister Joyce droveback and forth from Florida. Their mothercame on board and helped with repacking the

tomatoes to make them look perfect for Luckyto deliver them.

“Considering I was a professional singer, I waspainfully shy when it came time for the one-on-one with the big important restaurant peo-ple in New York City, but the tomatoes reallysold themselves.”

The company born of spontaneity had falleninto a niche that no one else was occupying.They were offering tomatoes directly from fieldto kitchen in matter of a couple of days andeveryone loved it.

This was during a time when chefs would taketomatoes off the menu because the only onesavailable during the fall and winter were gassedand no chef worth his salt would use them. Theonly other choice was imported tomatoeswhich were grown in hothouses and usuallycame in at three dollars a pound.

When I look back on it, the last twenty yearshas had the greatest generation of chefs in

NYC. The evolution has been amazing. Chefssuch as Daniel Boulud and Jean-Georges wereworking for other people back then and that iswhen we established our relationship. I was justthe young girl on the tomato truck making thedeliveries on my own for the first eight years.

When we saw the business growing, we decid-ed that we would build it up, sell it and moveon to what they really wanted to do (which atthat time wasn’t really determined). But werealized that we were a highly respected compa-ny in one of the greatest cities in the world bysome if the greatest chefs in the world, you say,wow, we have really created something. We fellin love with what we were doing and now Ican’t imagine not being associated with it.

About the Tomatoes: Weather is always anissue. We work with nature not against it.Those tomatoes have to be ripe before we pickthem. If it has been extremely cold, or extreme-ly rainy it can cut down on the supply tremen-dously. There are times we have to pull backand say, sorry no tomatoes today, no tomatoesnext week. In exchange for temporary interrup-tion of supply, what we do guarantee is a qual-ity tomato. So it may not be 52 weeks of theyear. It may be 49 or 47, but you can bet thatwhat we bring you, when we bring it to you, isgoing to be quality.

What is in the name? Why Lucky? When we were young our parents took in fos-ter kids. We had ten foster kids at one point.Three of the girls were sisters, ages 3, 5 and 7and they had been removed from their naturalparents because they had been abused, so theystayed with us for six months. The youngestgirl shared my birth name, Lee. So while din-ing at our table of 20, and someone would sayLee, both of us would turn around. One daymy Dad took me aside and said "You know shehas never had anything of her own, for heaven’ssake, lets give her own name, and we’ll call yousomething else." So, along with the nicknameLucky came a prophecy. He taught me how tomake my own luck in life. It was an unbeliev-able blessing.

The coming together of Lucky’s Tomatoesand The Chefs Warehouse

I have known of The Chefs’ Ware-house/Dairyland for years. They are so highlyrespected in the industry. When I look at thethree companies: Star Produce, The Chefs’Warehouse/Dairyland and ours, the similaritiesare amazing. We all started as family businessesand though we have all grown, we have all main-tained the family business identity. We have allcarefully selected employees to reflect our ownphilosophies. The three companies workingtogether is incredible opportunity for us.

Lucky’s Red Beefsteaks, Gold Beefsteaks,Grape and Plum Tomatoes

How Do You Find Great Tomatoes Year Round? You Don’t --- We Do!

For over twenty years, Lucky’s Real toma-toes has had a cooperative of farmers set upfrom New Jersey to Florida, providing a consistent supply of fieldgrown, sun-ripened beefsteak tomatoes allyear long. They are NEVER picked greenand gassed, and they are not grown in hothouses.

The tenderness you feel is the juice insidewhich gives them their flavor! The nutrients and vitamins come from the soil they are grown in and the sweetnesscomes from the sun.

That which gives our tomatoes their wonderful flavor is also what makes themvulnerable to occasional inconsistencies.WEATHER -- it is our best friend and ourworst enemy! We have learned to work withnature, not against it, and our reward istomatoes that “taste the way tomatoes aresupposed to taste!”

Red Sun-Ripened BeefsteaksYellow Sun-Ripened Beefsteaks

Red Roma Plum TomatoesSweet Red Grape Tomatoes

Specialty Varieties

Photos courtesy of Daniel Boulud

EDITERRANEAN TOMATO-LEMON TART

Makes 6 servings

FOR THE TART SHELL1 cup plus 3 tablespoons all-purpose flour6 tablespoons cold unsalted butter, cut into piecesFinely grated zest of 1 lemon1/8 teaspoon salt1 large egg, lightly beaten

FOR THE TOMATOES AND THE LEMON CUSTARD2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil2 cloves garlic, thinly sliced2 sprigs thyme, leaves chopped8 plum tomatoes, peeled, halved, and seededSalt and freshly ground pepper1/2 cup milk1/2 cup heavy cream2 large eggs2 large egg yolksFreshly squeezed juice of 2 lemons1/4 cup halved, pitted Niçoise olives2 tablespoons coarsely chopped basil leaves

MAKE THE TART SHELL1 Put the flour, butter, zest, and salt in a food processor andpulse until crumbly. Add the egg and pulse just until moistcurds form-don't overprocess. Turn the dough out onto awork surface and knead it once or twice to pull it together.Flatten it into a disk, wrap in plastic wrap, and refrigerate forat least 1 hour. (Wrapped airtight, the dough can be keptrefrigerated for up to 2 days or frozen for up to a month.)

2 Place an 8-inch tart pan with a removable bottom or a tartring on a parchment-paper-lined baking sheet. Lightly dusta work surface and the top of the dough with flour. Roll thedough out into a round that is approximately 10 inches indiameter and 1/8 inch thick. As you roll, lift the dough and,if necessary, dust with flour. Fit the dough into the bottomand against the side of the pan, taking care not to stretch it.Trim the excess dough even with the pan's rim. If thedough cracks, use lightly moistened scraps to fill the cracks.Refrigerate the tart shell for at least 30 minutes.

3 Center a rack in the oven and preheat the oven to 350˚F.

4 Line the crust with a parchment-paper round and fill withdried beans or rice. Bake for 18 to 20 minutes. Remove thepaper and beans, and bake 3 to 5 minutes more, or untillightly colored. Transfer to a rack to cool. (The crust can bekept at room temperature for up to 8 hours.)

MAKE THE TOMATOES AND THE LEMON CUSTARD5 Reduce the oven temperature to 300˚F.

6 Line a baking sheet with foil, brush with 1 tablespoon ofthe oil and sprinkle with the garlic and thyme. Place thetomato halves, cut side down, sprinkle with the remaining 1tablespoon oil, and season with salt and pepper. Bake forapproximately 1 hour until the tomatoes are tender but stillable to hold their shape; set aside.

7 Whisk together the milk, cream, eggs, yolks, lemon juice,olives, and basil in a bowl; season with salt and pepper.

8 Place the tart shell on a parchment-paper-lined bakingsheet. Arrange the tomatoes, cut side up, in the tart shelland pour the custard mixture over. Bake 25 to 30 minutesuntil the custard is set. Transfer to a rack to cool.

TO SERVECut the tart into wedges and serve with a bowl of summergreens seasoned with a lemon and olive oil dressing.

WINE PAIRINGThe richness of a Viognier-based wine echoes the flavors ofthe custard while the grape's floral overtones blend well withthe tart's lemony aromas. In particular, a rare Condrieu fromthe northern Rhône Valley, like the one produced by Tardieu-Laurent, makes a stunning choice. As always with Viognier,get the most recent vintage.

mFROM: Entertaining at Home with a Four Star Chef, Daniel Boulud, Filipacchi Publishing. 2003

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france

HEN SEVEN OF NEW YORK CITY’S FINESTpastry chefs travelled to southern France to takepart in an intensive bon bon making seminar withFrederic Bau, Executive Pastry Chef and Directorof Valrhona’s famous L’Ecole du Grand Chocolate,

the results were a "crystallization" of insight and appreciation.

Kim Rothrock, Pastry Specialist for The Chefs Warehouse was theimpetus behind the three-day event which took place at the homeof Valrhona and L’Ecole du Grand Chocolate in Tain l’Hermitage,an exquisite town along the Rhône which Chef Bau jokes "hasmore goats than humans."

I had the privilege of covering the seminar and was afforded "fly onthe wall" access for every moment of the three day course. Chef"students" included: Ghaya Oliviera, Assistant Pastry Chef, CaféBoulud; Jasmin Boijic, Pastry Chef Tavern on the Green; MichelleTampakis, Pastry Chef Instructor at the Institute of CulinaryEducation (ICE); Allison Johnson, Assistant Pastry Chef, ElevenMadison Park, Amanda Clark, Assistant Pastry Chef, JeanGeorges, Fritz Knipschildt, Chocolatier, Knipschildt Chocolatierand Vera Tong, Pastry Chef, Compass.

Although the nine and a half hour-days for the bon bon classdemanded the utmost in focus and effort from our group of pastrychefs, the good-natured ease of Chef Bau’s instruction made for anexceptionally enjoyable experience.

The seminars cover two basic aspects of professional chocolate andpastry: improving of present skills and learning the more technicalend of pastry.

"The goal is not to get everything in the first class. The point is forthe students to do it themselves, to learn. The biggest problem forpastry chefs is when they stop learning, when they start always say-ing ‘I know. I know," shares Chef Bau.

w

“There is no one like Frederic Bau.It is like being a painter with Picasso as your teacher.”Allison Johnson, Asst. Pastry Chef Eleven Madison Park

chocolate school in paradise

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"I have learned how it can be easy to work withchocolate." –Ghaya Oliviera

"It is good for me to understand the process.Sometimes when results are irregular in pastry ithas more to do with technique than ingredients.Pastry techniques are constantly being reinvent-ed. You think you know something and thenyou discover a better way of doing it."-Michelle Talbert

"This is not work!" -Amanda Clark

"This is why many people do not like to work withchocolate because everything must be very precise.The only way to learn is to make bon bons by hand.I always wanted to come here and be challenged, tolearn how to do everything the right way." -Fritz Knipshildt

"What I have learned here is unbelievable, therecipes, the techniques… I will definitely takewhat I have learned and apply it to my work atTavern on the Green." -Jasmine Boijic

For the grand finale, the pastry chefs, with the help of Valrhona Pastry Chef Teacher David Capy, completed the enrobing and dec-oration process for the bon bons they had creat-ed and grandly displayed them on a large tablein the laboratory. To see the vast assortment ofbeautiful chocolates overflowing the largekitchen was an incredible site. The thought thateach of the intricate gems were made every stepby hand by was impressive indeed; the success-ful results of a great teacher and very enthusias-tic students.

STORY & PHOTOS BY KELLI COLACO

The story behind L’Ecole

At 22, Frederic Bau set out to travelEurope to introduce Valrhona to thosethe business of pastry. ‘’I was very lucky,as it was a big challenge. I was very youngwhen I started and when you are youngyou are not asking so many questions likeyou do when you are 40!’’

Travelling seven months out of the yearhowever began to weigh on Chef Bau andhe began to see valuable possibilities for afull-time pastry and chocolate school withthe ever-growing Valrhona name and rep-utation.

He began by teaching small seminars togroups of Valrhona customers. These sem-inars generated so much interest that in1988 a small laboratory was built next tothe Valrhona factory in Tain L’Hermitageto accommodate the demand.

In 2002, Chef Bau got the backing he waswaiting for and the school received an evengrander expansion, and new design createdby Frederic himself.Once consisting of onelab fitting only eight people at a time,L’Ecole du Grand Chocolate Valrhonanow encompasses three large state-of-theart labs; two used for stagiers and thethird reserved strictly for mandatoryValrhona testing and core creations. Theschool now sees over 780 students a year,three days a week.

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