pastry & baking volume 1 issue 2 2007

AS RICH IN POSSIBILITIES AS ANYTHING YOU CAN IMAGINE. P U R E B E L G I A N C H O C O L AT E . V E L I C H E .

Once it was the closely guarded secret of Belgian chefs and chocolatiers. Now with Veliche, the exceptional flavor and consistency of pure Belgian Chocolate are yours to explore. Call 877-835-4243 or visit www.velichechocolate.com

2 Pastry & Baking North America

Published by

Synergy1 Group, Inc.

www.PastryNA.com

PUBLISHERSynergy1 Board of Directors

EDITOR IN CHIEF Joe Marcionette

CREATIVE DIRECTORLisa Dinges

SENIOR EDITORCampbell Ross Walker

ASIA PACIFIC EDITORRachel Lee

NETWORK MANAGERMichael Ethier

SENIOR WRITERSDavid Martell, Laura Geatty

CORPORATE OFFICES:

North America

PO Box 291162

Port Orange, Florida

32129-1162

Email: [email protected]

Asia Pacific

32 Maxwell Road #03-07

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Fax: (65) 6323 1839

Pastry&bakingN O R T H A M E R I C A

Pastry & Baking North America Volume 1, Issue 2.All rights reserved. © under Universal International

and Pan American Copyright conventions. Thispublication is a creative work fully protected by all

applicable copyright laws, as well as bymisappropriation, trade secret, unfair competition

and other applicable laws.

For the past couple of years, you’ve no doubt been hearing aboutthe winds of change ready to sweep through the media industry:print as we know it is over, the magazines of the future will bedigital only.

Here’s a news flash: print magazines will always have a role in oursociety, especially educational, trade publications like Pastry &Baking North America. Until a computer can be rolled up andstored in one’s back pocket or flung across a floured table top toa colleague requiring further examination as to the exact placementof the chocolate decoration, printed magazines will maintain theirplace in our working environments.

Yet, as our understanding of technology matures, we come torealize that as publishers of information we have the obligationto act as responsible stewards and provide further resources to ourreaders. Thus, we have acted accordingly and launched our websitewww.PastryNA.com where you will find a library of dessertimages and their complete recipes along with our new video zonefull of educational, informative and sometimes funny clips.

As always, we will rely on the feedback from our readers to let usknow what you like about the site and what additional featureswe can add to make the total experience with Pastry & BakingNorth America the best it can be.

Regards,

Joe MarcionetteEditor-in-Chief

email: [email protected]


Pastry&bakingN O R T H A M E R I C A

16RegionalShowcaseJoin P&B NA on our tour of North

America as we visit and showcase

talented professionals who share

their favorite products and recipes.

36Bakery in FocusAcme Bread Company continues

to thrive. No multi channel

marketing initiatives. No bottom-

line conscious managerial style.

No cost cutting economization

on ingredients or manpower.

What’s the secret?

52Chef in FocusBeing talented, focused and hard

working does pay off. In three

short years, Julie Jangali has gone

from paralegal to heading up the

pastry kitchen at Baltimore’s

largest hotel.

6Off The WireThe latest news, happenings,events and product updates.

10Sugar ArtsThe incomparable Ewald Notterprovides step-by-step instructionand insight into his passionand craft.

30Chocolate LovePastry chef and chocolatierextraordinaire Norman Lovedelves deep into building skillsand techniques.

46Creative CakesJoin Certified Master Pastry ChefFrank Vollkommer as he puts hisskills, creativity and attention todetail on display.

62Asian FusionLegendary Kim Young Mo shares hisunique approach to the marriage ofclassic European pastry/baking withAsian tastes and sensibilities.

House Specials24

52

36


Off The Wire

News, events andhappenings fromaround the region

Wild Sweets ChocolateIgnited by a passion for melding art and science in the kitchen,Dominique and Cindy Duby turn culinary conventions insideout. Inventive recipes tow the line between sweet and savory,fusing unlikely flavors to render unforgettable dishes.

The adventurous chefs spin immaculate recipes for sweets,bites, and drinks from their culinary studio — and show youhow to perfect them in your own kitchen. Step-by-step recipesand immaculate photography feature elemental, root-downmethods driving the Dubys’ approach to cuisine. Sharp, cleanflavors balance in a joyful harmony of sweet sand savory,inspired by ingredients that are refreshingly contemporary anddistinctly west coast.

Wild Sweets Chocolate isin equal parts a feast for theeyes, a delight to the senses,and an exhilarating journeythrough the Dubys’ famousa t e l i e r . W i l d S w e e t sChocolate is a hard coverb o o k , 9 ” x 1 2 ” i nsize with 208-pages a l lp r i n t e d i n 4 co l o u rt h r o u g h o u t ,features 180 colour picturesa n d r e t a i l s f o r $ 4 0 . 0 0at major book stores inCanada and the USAincluding amazon.com.

Signed copies are only available on the Duby’s VirtualBoutique located at www.dcduby.com and at the special priceof $32.00

“It is the rare few that truly break through with important and lastingideas. The creations contained in Wild Sweets Chocolate are fluidand provocative, yet have depth and eloquence that is only foundin the hands of those that have a true mastery and profoundunderstanding of their craft.”

— Charlie Trotter

Gem of a DessertThe Fortress Sri Lanka, an award winning luxury resort in Gallehas created the most expensive dessert in the world. Priced at$14,500 ‘The Fortress Stilt Fisherman Indulgence’ is an effort bythe resort’s culinary team to create a one of a kind dessert thatis intrinsically linked withthe destination, offeringboth long lasting memoriesand a keepsake of theexperience.

Available on specialrequest , the desser t’sinspiration comes from theresort’s logo of the ‘stiltfisherman’, a centuries oldfishing practice that can stillbe seen along the country’scoastline even today.

The conference attracted attendees from across the globemaking it a truly international experience. Attendees were ableto network with other bakers and visit the exhibit hall withhundreds of vendors showcasing not only the latest products,equipment and services, but also solutions to today’s bakingindustry problems.

American Retail BakeryExpositionThe Retail Bakers of America (RBA) joined forces with XpoManagement to present the largest retail bakery exposition inthe United States, the American Retail Bakery Exposition (ARBE)held September 9th – 11th 2007 in Las Vegas.

Designed to bring together retail bakers, decorators, suppliersand industry leaders for quality educational sessions,demonstrations and networking opportunities, the ARBEEducational Program featured 18 sessions presented by world-class speakers geared to fulfilling the needs of today’s bakersin running a successful bakery. The sessions were dividedamong three tracks designed to offer information on Business,Marketing and Wedding Cakes. Each track offered learningopportunities for beginners through advanced bakers.

Well-known decorators presented demonstrationsshowcasing the latest decorating and baking techniques. TheCake Decorating Technique Demonstrations featureddecorators Paul Edwards, Elin Katz, Starr Heiliger, RebeccaSutterby, Kerry Vincent, Carolyn Wanke, and Bronwen Weber. The Art of Decorating Technique Demonstrations featuredtop bakers and pastry chefs, including Klaus Tenbergen, MichelSuas, Marda Stoliar, and Dominique Homo.

In addition to the sessions and demonstrations includedin the registration fee, a hands-on session with Bronwen Weberwas available as a separate ticketed event. Participants learnedhow to construct a lion’s head and finish it in three differentways: bronze, stone or true to life through cake sculpting,fondant sculpting and airbrushing techniques. The sessionwas so popular that a second session was added to accommodatethose interested in learning unique decorating techniques.

This year’s event alsofeatured a bakery tour— a behind-the-sceneslook at some of the LasVegas area’s top bakeries.Sponsored by DawnFood Products, Inc.,attendees who signed upfor the much-anticipatedt o u r h a d t h eopportunity to visitthree Las Vegas bakeries,including: Carl’s Donuts,Great Buns Plant #2 andSupreme Bakery.

SIGEP 2008The 29th International Exhibition of Artisan Gelato, Confectioneryand Bakery Production at Rimini Fiera will be held January 26th– 30th 2008 and is following a record breaking summer in termsof global consumption of Gelato (Italian ice cream). The artisanconfectionery world is therefore preparing to make anotherqualitative leap, with the aim of maintaining a clear distinctionfrom industrial products. These distinct differences will be ondisplay at SIGEP 2008, where the best from Italy and around theworld will demonstrate techniques, skills and competitive spirithighlighting artisan craft in gelato, confectionery and bakery.


To personally discover how the sector’s professionals work,SIGEP and Co.Gel.Fipe will present the Gelato World Cup, fromJanuary 27th – 28th, sponsored by the Ministry for Agricultural,Food and Forestry Policies and the Academy of Italian Cuisine.Gabriel Paillasson will be among the judges carefully scrutinizingteams from Argentina, Brazil, France, Italy, Morocco, Poland,Spain, Switzerland, Hungary and Team USA who has fielded ateam consisting of Patrice Caillot, Xavier Fresson, Franck Fauvatand Salvatore Martano.

For more information on SIGEP visit www.sigep.it or call+39 0541 744510.

Off The Wire

The Cultivation of TasteValrhona introduced Grands Crus de Terroir, its new singleorigin chocolate range to audiences made up of chefs,chocolatiers and experts in New York on September 10thand San Francisco on September 12th during a seminartitled “The Cultivation of Taste”. Valrhona’s Pierre Costet,Chief Cacao Sourcer and Vanessa Lemoine, Sensorial AnalystExpert, brought to life the journey from cacao bean tofinished chocolate leading the audience through thegrowing, fermenting, and drying of cacao beans, thecomplexities of finding and working with growers and thescience and pleasure of tasting chocolate.

The three hour seminar was followed by a desserttasting by Valrhona pastry chef Derek Poirier and pastrychef and Valrhona consultant, Yann Duytsche, author ofSWEET DIVERSIONS (Editores Montagud) and ownerof Dolç par Yann Duytsche, just outside Barcelona. Thefive miniature desserts, based on recipes created byValrhona’s L’Ecole du Grand Chocolat, were served inValrhona’s new Tasting Box concept and showcased eachof the Grands Crus de Terroir chocolates to stunning effect.

Guests at New York’s event at the Midtown Terrace andLoft included authors Dorie Greenspan and Rose LevyBeranbaum, Michael Laskonis of Le Bernardin, MartinHoward of Brasserie 8* Joshua Needleman of ChocolateSprings, Kee Tong of Kee’s Chocolates, and Joan Coukosof Chocolat Moderne. Guests at the Ritz-Carlton SanFrancisco included the Ron Siegel, chef of the DiningRoom at the Ritz-Carlton San Francisco and pastry chefAlexander Espiritu, Ritz-Carlton San Francisco executivechef Jean-Pierre Dubray and pastry chef Chek Yong Sam,Michael Recchiuti of Confections by Recchiuti, MichaelAntonorsi of Chuao Chocolates, Gary Rulli of Emporio

Rulli, Terri Wu ofFarallon Restaurant,Boris Portnoy ofC a m p t o n P l a c eRestaurant, MelissaRoberts of TartineB a k e r y , a n dAlexandra Whisnantof Chez Panisse.

For more information on Valrhona’s new Grands Crus deTerroir contact Carolina Gavet via telephone (562.250.7377)or email ([email protected]).

Two part tutorial for creating a very realand intricate crustacean.


Sugar

Sugar Arts

Publisher’s Note: Ewald Notter is considered a leading expert inmodern day confectionery arts and is also well know as a competitorand instructor. Today, Chef Ewald heads the Notter School of PastryArts in Orlando, Florida. (www.notterschool.com)

Part 2:Creating theLobster and Shell

Sugar Recipe1000g sugar400g water200g glucose

Lobster Body

EquipmentBulb pump(wood or metal tube)MatGlovesHair DryerHeat sourcePotSpatulaMarble

Lobster

11

1. Using your hands, form the pliable sugar into a sphere byblowing it several times in order to get an even temperaturethroughout. If you blow sugar with an uneven temperature,the sugar will always extract more on the warmer side. Theonly way to correct this is by using your hand to cool downthe warmer parts.

2. Carefully push a short hole into the sphere. Try not to cooldown the sugar by handling too much.

3. Slide the tubing attachment a short distance into the ball ofsugar. Press the sugar onto the tube very well, so the air doesnot escape from the sides.

4. Pump air into the sphere and expand sugar evenly. Elongatethe sphere as you blow air into the sugar. If the sugar is verywarm (pliable) you cannot blow too much air in at once.

1. 2.

4. 5.

7. 8.The sugar will collapse from not being able to hold itsshape.

5. Continue to blow air into the sugar. Mold and form thesugar little by little. Once your desired shape is reached,you may cool the sugar down by using a hair dryer.

6. When the body has been cooled, re-warm the air channel.Cut away through the re-warmed sugar with a pair ofscissors. Use the warm sugar at the

7. Attach the sugar lobster to the straw sugar base by usingtwo pieces of very warm sugar as glue.

8. Pull five elongated petals to create the tail.

9. Immediately (as long as the petals are warm) attach thepetals onto the tail. If you are too slow, you have to re-warmthe sugar which will make the sugar dull in appearance.

3.

6.

9.


Sugar Arts

10. 11.

13. 14.

16. 17.

12.

15.

18.10. To create the exoskeleton, you need to pull 6 straight

ribbons. Try to keep the beginning and the ending piecesnarrow.

11. Similar to the tail, attach the ribbons to the body of thelobster as soon as possible without re-warming. The sixthribbon should be placed half way down the body to haveenough room for the head, 8 legs and 2 claws.

12. To finish the second part of the body, you will need tworibbons. Start by pulling the ribbon wide and end bypulling the ribbon narrow.

13. Attach the wide end first and pull the narrow end upalongside the body. Repeat on the opposite side.

14. Place a smaller sphere of sugar on the blowing tube. Blowa little air into the sphere and make sure it expands evenlybefore elongating.

15. While the sugar is still warm and flexible, cut the end tocreate the claws.

16. Use the scissors to score and form the segments. You haveto work quickly to make sure you get all the parts beforethe sugar cools and gets too brittle.

17. Once the shape has been reached, cool the lobster clawusing the hair dryer.

18. Segment the lobster legs with scissors. The legs are notblown which makes the sugar easier to work with.

13

19. 20.

22. 23.

25. 26.

21.

24.

19. Attach the lobster legs immediately. Cool the legs ass soon as possible tohold the shape. You will need 4 legs on each side.

20. Cut out small pieces of blue sugar the size of a pea.

21. To create the eyes, model a piece of sugar to a tear drop shape. Warm thepointed end and attach it to the face of the lobster.

22. Blow a little sphere and pull it long to form a narrow tube. Before the tubegets cold, bend one end 11/4 inch and place it on the head. Continue thisprocess to make the smaller antenna underneath the eyes.

23. You may cover the straw-sugar base with a very finepiece of plastic to protect itduring the spraying process.

24. Prepare the colors in order ofspraying. Red is the primarycolor followed by yellow, blueand finally black. You maychoose to use an air brush oran atomizer. If you are usingan atomizer, you will need tothicken the color by addingsome food lacquer.Otherwise, the spray mist ofcolor will not be so fine.

25-26. Begin to apply the red colorin an even-horizontal motionto ensure full application ofcolor, followed by yellow, blueand black.

You may need to applymultiple layers of color toachieve the desired effect.


Sugar Arts

Sugar Recipe:1000g sugar400g water200g glucose

Conch Shell

Equipment:Bulb pump(wood or metal tube)MatGlovesHair DryerHeat sourcePotSpatulaMarble

1. 2.

4. 5.

3.

6.1. Fold a small amount of sugar to form a sphere which has been

cooled to an even-temperature throughout by this folding process.

2. Pull the sphere into a tear-drop shape. Immediately, cut throughthe center with scissors. It is important this step be performedwhile the sugar is still warm to ensure the sugar does not burstor break.

3. Twist the top of the tear-drop shape one time to achieve theconch shell shape.

4. Once you obtain the shape, cool the object by usinga blow dryer. Warm the end of the conch shell byusing the spiritus burner and remove from the tube.

5. Re-warm the underside of the shell and open theshell very slightly using a scissor.

6-7. Re-warm if necessary to model and mold the outsideof the shell to make the points protruding from theshell.

15

8. Moisten the shell with wateror lacquer so the sugar willattach easily on the outsideto create a rough texture.

9. Dredge the shell into thegranulated sugar making surethe opening stays clear of thesugar.

10-11. Apply the yellow color first,followed by red and blue.

12. To ensure the conch shellsticks to the straw-sugar base,scratch off a small portion ofthe granulated sugar beforewarming the area to attach.You may also want to use asmaller piece of sugar whichhas been warmed to use as aglue to apply to that areabefore you attach.

7. 8. 9.

10. 11.


RegionalShowcase


Regional Showcase

Holiday Petits Fours

Owner/Pastry Chef

Dragonfly Cakes200 Gate Five RoadSausalito, CA 94965Tel: (415) 332 6812www.dragonflycakes.com

Brooks Coulson Nguyen

Your Notes

Sausalito

Yield: 96 petits fours

Joconde Cake14 oz almond flour101/2 oz confectioner’s sugar21/3 cups whole eggs31/4 oz melted butter1 cup egg whites4 oz granulated sugar4 oz all purpose flour

1. Blend almond flour, confectioner’ssugar and 1/2 of the whole eggs. Whipfor 6-8 minutes.

2. Add the rest of the eggs in two batches,beating well after each addition. Whipfor 8-10 more minutes.

3. Temper melted butter with about 2cups of batter, set aside.

4. Whip the egg whites and granulatedsugar like a French meringue, beatingtill soft peaks. Fold into reserved batter,set aside.

5. Gently fold in sifted flour.

6. Fold in tempered butter mixture.

7. Pour onto 2 greased half sheet pans.

8. Bake at 425°F till done, about 8-10minutes.

9. Cool. Wrap tightly.

Ganache9 oz heavy cream (whip cream)8 oz milk couverture chopped or chips8 oz vanilla couverture chopped or chips

1. Boil the heavy cream.

2. Poor hot cream onto chocolate andstir immediately. Add 11/2 oz of butterand stir until smooth. Let cool andstore in refrigerator.

Marzipan3 cups sugar1 cup water4 cups ground blanched almonds

1. Add the sugar to the water in asaucepan and cook until the sugar isdissolved.

2. Add the almonds and cook it until thebatter stops sticking to the pan.Remove from heat and place onto amarble slap, wooden board or a sheetpan. While still warm knead first witha wooden spatula and then by handuntil smooth.

3. Store in an airtight container or plasticbag.

Glaze3 cups icing sugar6 tbsp cold water1 tsp soft butter

Mix icing sugar and water together in asaucepan. Heat over medium heat untilmixture feels lukewarm and is of goodpouring consistency. Stir in butter.

Assembly1. Spread ganache over first sheet of cake.

2. Lay second sheet on top.

3. Prepare marzipan by rolling out equalto the dimensions of the sheet cake.About 1/20 inch in thickness.

4. Diluted glucose and apply to the topsheet of cake. This will provideadhesion for the rolled marzipan. Laythe marzipan onto the prepared cake.Trim edges.

5. Cut individual petit fours using pastrybicycle or ruler/knife.

6. Glaze each cake.

7. Decorate the petits fours using royalicing with the shapes of your choosing.

19

Holiday Petits Fours


Regional Showcase

Bittersweet Espresso Chocolate Mousse Tower

Executive Pastry Chef

The Fairmont San Jose170 South Market StreetSan Jose, CaliforniaTel: (408) 998-190www.fairmont.com/sanjose

Fernando Arreola

San Jose

Chocolate Mousse9 oz/266ml heavy cream6 oz/170g bittersweet chocolate3.25 oz/92g egg yolks4.5 oz/128g granulated sugar divided2.5 oz/71g egg whites2 oz/59ml dark rumrum extract, to tasteorange extractvanilla

1. Whip the heavy cream to soft peaksand set aside.

2. Place the chocolate in a bowl and meltover a double boiler.

3. Place egg yolks and 2.25 oz of sugar ina bowl and place over a double boiler,whisking constantly and bring mixtureto 140°F (60°C).

4. Beat the egg whites and remainingsugar to stiff peaks.

5. Stir flavorings into yolk mixture andthen fold yolk mixture into thechocolate mixture.

6. Fold whipped cream into chocolatemixture and then fold in beaten eggwhites. Pipe in 13/4” diameter x 4” hightube mold.

Dark Chocolate Tower1. Cut 20 pieces of plastic 3.5”x 6” and

lay the plastic on a piece of parchmentpaper.

2. Pour melted chocolate into aparchment cone and pipe crisscrossinglines across each piece of plastic tocreate a lattice effect. Allow thechocolate to set a few minutes.

3. Unmold each chocolate mousse towerand wrap the setting chocolate latticearound the tower. Secure theoverlapping plastic with a piece of tapeand allow the lattice to set completely,adhering to the mousse.

Saffron Chocolate Sauce6 oz/177ml milk4 oz/113g granulated sugar, divided3.25oz /92g egg yolks4 oz /113g bittersweet chocolatepinch saffron

1. In a small saucepan, bring milk and1 oz sugar to a boil.

2. With a mixer using the wire whip, beategg yolks and remaining sugar untillight and fluffy. Temper yolks with hotmilk; return to saucepan and bringback to 180°F (82°C). Remove fromheat and pour over chocolate.

3. Whisk until smooth.

Assembly:1. Place chocolate mousse tower with

lattice in the center of a plate.

2. Garnish plate with fresh raspberriesaround the base of the tower.

3. Place chocolate sauce in squeeze bottleand pipe on the side of a plate and ontop of the tower. Add fresh mint.

4. Cut 3 oranges strips and red peppercompote.

Your Notes

21

Bittersweet Espresso Chocolate Mousse Tower


Regional Showcase

Lemon Curd Tart

Pastry Chef/Owner

Sarah’s Pastries & Candies70 E Oak StTel: (312) 664-6223www.sarahscandies.com

Sarah Levy

Chicago

Serves 20

Sable Dough125g butter100g granulated sugar1 egg yolk250g flour1 teaspoon vanilla extract

1. Cream butter and sugar together untilfully incorporated.

2. Add egg yolk and blend.

3. Gradually add flour and vanilla.

4. Roll flat with rolling pin between 2pieces of parchment paper until 1/4”thick.

5. Chill in refrigerator up to three hours.

6. Cut using biscuit cutters to desiredsize.

7. Using stainless steal tart shells, placethe dough in one mold and use oneadditional mold on top.

8. Do not press the molds together, havesecond mold rest lightly on dough.

9. Chill for 1 hour in refrigerator andtrim edge.

10. Bake at 350°F degrees for 8-10minutes until golden.

11. Cool.

Lemon CurdZest of three lemons6 oz lemon juice6 oz granulated sugar4 oz unsalted, butter8 egg yolksPinch sea salt

1. Combine zest, juice, sugar, butter andsalt in a saucepan.

2. Simmer over medium heat for 1minute.

3. Place egg yolks in large bowl.

4. Remove saucepan from heat and slowlytemper in to yolks, whiskingthoroughly.

5. Add mixture back to saucepan andplace on medium heat, whiskingconstantly until slightly thickened,about one minute and a half.

6. Pour curd to 3/4 height of a cooled sableshell.

7. Bake briefly at 350°F until the curdstarts to set up but the center is still“jello like” in appearance.

8. Remove tarts from oven andrefrigerate.

Meringue4 oz egg whites6 oz sugar

1. Combine whites and sugar in kitchenaid and mix with whisk attachmentfor 5-7 minutes or until medium peak.

2. Place in piping bag with a star tip.

Assembly1. When ready to serve, remove tarts from

refrigerator and pipe meringue overthe top until entire surface is covered.

2. With torch, lightly toast the meringue.

Your Notes

23

Lemon Curd Tart


Regional Showcase

Ginger Bread and Flower Holiday Cookies

Pastry Chef/Owner

Olson Foods + Bakery17 Lock StreetOntarioTel: (905) 938 8490www.olsonfoodsandbakery.com

Anna Olson

St. Catharines

Yield: 24 cookies

Ginger Bread Cookie Dough1/2 cup (125ml) unsalted butter, roomtemperature1/2 cup (125ml) sugar1 large egg1 tsp (5ml) vanilla extract1/2 cup (125ml) blackstrap molasses1/4 cup (60ml) grated fresh ginger3 cups (750ml) all-purpose flour1 tsp (5ml) ground cinnamon3/4 cup (4ml) baking soda1/4 tsp (1ml) ground cloves

1. Cream butter and sugar until fluffy.

2. Beat in egg and vanilla.

3. Stir in molasses and grated ginger untilevenly blended.

4. In a separate bowl, combine remainingingredients and add to molassesmixture, Stirring just until doughcomes together.

5. Shape dough into 2 disks and chill forat least 2 hours before rolling.

6. Preheat oven to 375°F (190°C).

7. On a lightly floured surface, roll out1 disk to just over 3 mm thick. Cut outdesired shapes and place on aparchment-lined baking sheet. Bakefor 6 to 8 minutes until edges are firmto touch.

8. Allow to cool completely.

Royal Icing3 tbsp (45ml) meringue powder1/2 cup (125ml) warm water41/2 cup (1.125 L) icing sugar-sifted1 tsp (5ml) vanilla extract1/2 tsp (2ml) cream of tartarFood coloring

1. Stir together all ingredients except thecoloring to blend.

2. Beat with electric mixer on high speeduntil mixture is stiff, about 7 minutes.

3. Tint portions of icing as desired andkeep covered with plastic wrap untilready to decorate.

Flower Cookies11/4 cup (300ml) unsalted butter, roomtemperature1 cup (250ml) sugar1 large egg1 tsp (5ml) vanilla extract2 tsp (10ml) orange blossom water3 cups (750ml) all-purpose flour1/2 tsp (2ml) baking powder1/2 tsp (2ml) fine salt1/4 tsp (1 ml) ground nutmeg

1. Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C) andline a baking tray with parchmentpaper.

2. Beat butter and sugar until light andfluffy, about 2 minutes. Add egg,vanilla and orange blossom water andbeat well.

3. In a separate bowl, stir flour, bakingpowder, salt and nutmeg. Add to buttermixture and beat on low speed justuntil blended.

4. Shape dough into 2 disks, wrap andchill for at least 2 hours.

5. On a lightly floured surface, roll outdough to 1/2 inch (5mm) and cut outflower shape. Place cookies on bakingtray, 1 inch (2.5cm) apart and bakefor 8-10 minutes, until lightly brownedaround the edges. Allow to cool.

Flower Cookie Decoration1 lbs (450g) white rolling fondant2 tsp (10ml) orange blossom waterEgg white or meringue powder forbrushingFood coloring pasteIcing sugar

1. Knead fondant to soften.

2. Add orange blossom water and kneadinto fondant.

3. Break fondant into pieces, keepingeach wrapped at all times. Add just atouch of desired colour to a piece offondant and knead in with yourfingers, adjusting colour if necessary.

4. Repeat with other pieces.

5. On a surface lightly dusted with icingsugar, roll out fondant to 1/8 inch(3mm) thick. Using the same cookiecutter, cut out flower shapes.

6. Brush a little egg white or meringuepowder mixture onto the back of thefondant flower and adhere to eachcookie.

7. Cut out a small circle of fondant forcenter of each flower and adhere withegg white to cookie.

8. Let cookies dry for an hour.

Your Notes

25

Ginger Bread and Flower Holiday Cookies


Regional Showcase

Flourless Manjari Chocolate Tart


The Sanctuary HotelOne Sanctuary Beach Driveiawah Island, SC 29455Tel: (843) 768-2121www.kiawahresort.com

Claire Chapman

Kiawah Island

Cocoa Sucre Dough1/4 cup room temperature butter1/4 cup powdered sugar10 oz all purpose flour1 oz cocoa11/2 whole eggs, beaten

1. Cream the butter with the powderedsugar. Add in the dry ingredients andthen add the beaten eggs.

2. Mix till it just comes together; you mayhave to work it by hand.

3. Chill for at least two hours.

Tart Shells1. Allow the dough to soften slightly. Roll

out to 2.5mm and punch out into 4.5-inch rounds.

2. Spray 3.25-inch entremets rings andline with the dough.

3. Chill for about two hours; clean theedges of the tart with a pairing knife.

4. Par-bake the shells at 325°F/163°C for5-7 minutes. The shells can be preppedand kept unbaked in the fridge. It isbest to par-bake them, fill and finishbaking them the day you will servethem.

Flourless Chocolate Filling6 oz 64% Manjari dark chocolate6 oz unsalted butter2 oz granulated sugar1 oz cocoaPinch of salt3 whole eggs

1. Melt the chocolate and butter over adouble boiler.

2. Whisk in the sugar, cocoa and salt.

3. Beat the eggs lightly and add whisk tillthe mixture comes together and isshiny.

4. Fill the tart shells till 3/4 full.

5. Bake at 300°F/149°C for 6 minutesand turn. Bake for another 2-3minutes.

6. The mixture should still be giggly inthe centre.

7. Cool in fridge for 30 minutes. Removeand serve at room temperature.

Chocolate Glaze280g heavy cream288g water360g sugar120g cocoa, sifted6 gelatin sheets

1. Bloom the gelatin in cold water.

2. Bring to a boil the cream, water andsugar. Whisk in the cocoa, cook stirringcontinuously for a minute.

3. Squeeze out and dry the gelatin andadd it to the mixture.

4. Strain through a chinois and coolslightly.

5. Pour enough glaze onto the tarts sothat it is flush with the tart shell edge.Chill.

Chocolate Mint Pudding150g whole milk150g heavy cream30g yolks60g sugar10-15 fresh citrus mint leaves150g 64% couverture

1. Make an anglaise by bringing to boilthe cream, milk, mint and half thesugar.

2. Whisk the remaining sugar with theyolks and temper into the dairymixture. Place all back onto the stoveand cook to 185°F/85°C.

3. Pour the hot anglaise over thecouverture.

4. Whisk till smooth and strain into acontainer. Chill this overnight.

Blood Orange Reduction15-20 fresh blood oranges20g sugar (adjust with bitterness oforanges)

1. Juice the oranges and strain to removethe pulp.

2. Place on the stove with the sugar andbring to a boil, reduce the heat to asimmer and allow to reduce to a syrupconsistency. Cool.

Garnish2 Blood oranges (segmented andcleaned)Fresh micro mintChocolate curlOrange dust

*To make orange dust, zest 4 naval orangesand place in a pan above the oven to dryfor a day. Grind up the zest in a spicegrinder to a powder consistency.

Assembly1. With warm water and a teaspoon

quenelle the chocolate pudding andplace in the centre of the tart.

2. Place the tart on the back corner ofthe plate.

3. Drop a nickel size amount of the bloodorange reduction to the far left of thetart and drag it with the tip of thespoon towards the opposite corner.

4. Orange dust the tapered side of thereduction.

5. Place a mound of fresh blood oranges(3-5 depending on their size) in theopposite corner of the tart.

6. Garnish the quenelle with micro mintand place a chocolate curl standing up.

Your Notes

27

Flourless Manjari Chocolate Tart


Regional Showcase

Passion Fruit/Mango Mousse Double Chocolate Indulgence


Fairmont The Queen Elizabeth900 Rene Levesque Blvd. WQuebecTel: (514) 861-3511www.fairmont.com/queenelizabeth

Christian Mertenat

Montreal

For 16 servings

Italian Meringue45g large egg whites65g superfine granulated sugar30g water5g powdered gelatin20g cold water 40ºF

1. Sprinkle gelatin over water in asaucepan and let stand 2 minutes tosoften. Bring to a simmer, stirring untilgelatin is dissolved.

2. Cook sugar and water until 240ºF.

3. Beat whites with an electric mixer untilwhites hold stiff. Pour sugar mixturein the whites. Mix and add the gelatin.

4. Beat until cooled.

Mango Mousse250g fresh mango purée1g lemon zest1g orange zest120g Italian meringue150g heavy cream

1. Mix mango purée and zests.

2. Fold the meringue into the whippedcream and add the mango purée.

3. Pour into the bottom of cone-shapesilicone pastry mold.

Passion Fruit Mousse125g fresh passion fruit juice35g pulp and passion fruit seeds75g sugar65g large egg yolks30g powdered milk1/4 vanilla bean1g orange zest2-1/2 unflavored gelatin sheets160g heavy cream

1. Halve the passion fruits over a sieve andset over a bowl to catch any juices andscoop the seeds and pulp into the sieve.

2. Scrape the seeds with a spatula untilthe juice and most of the pulp has beenextracted. Roughly mix the fresh juiceand seeds in a blender and then strainthrough a fine sieve.

3. Transfer to a double boiler and addsugar, yolks, powdered milk, vanillaand orange zest. Mix well and cookuntil it reaches 170ºF.

4. Remove from heat and beat until thesabayon is completely cooled.

5. Swell gelatin in cold water. Drain andtransfer to a small saucepan. Overmoderate heat, stir until the gelatin isdissolved completely. Add to thesabayon preparation. Chill.

6. In a bowl, beat the cream until it holdssoft peaks and fold into the reservedsabayon. Spoon in the mold atopmango mousse.

Double Chocolate Cake250g large eggs100g large egg yolks120g sugar80g pastry flour, sifted30g unsweetened cocoa powder, sifted

1. Preheat oven to 350°F.

2. Line bottom of a 20cm x 30cm x 2.5cmjellyroll pan with waxed paper. Butterpaper. Lightly dust paper and pan withflour.

3. Combine eggs, egg yolk and sugar indouble boiler. Whisk until mixture isjust warm to touch (thermometer willregister 90°F). Remove from heat.

4. Using electric mixer, beat until mixturefalls in heavy ribbon when beaters arelifted. Add flour mixture, fold gentlyto incorporate.

5. Spread batter in prepared pan. Bake at350ºF until cake springs back whenpressed in center, approximately 20minutes. Transfer pan to rack. Coolcompletely.

6. Invert cake onto working surface. Peeloff paper. Cool. With a round pastrycutter equivalent to the diameter ofthe top of the cone-shape mold, cutout 16 circles.

7. Place circles on top of the passion fruitmousse in the mold. Freeze for aminimum of 4 hours.

8. To remove from mold, dip mold inwarm water and invert onto a bakingsheet.

Raspberry Coulis400 g raspberry purée80 g icing sugar

In a saucepan, heat purée and sugar untilit reaches 185ºF and chill.

Tuiles40g butter40g icing sugar60g large egg whites30g pastry flour

1. Mix butter and icing sugar, beat toemulsify. Add the egg whites and mix.Add sifted flour and mix until wellblended.

2. To make the tuile to garnish thedessert, make a stencil in the shape ofa ribbon with cardboard or plastic30cm long x 1.5cm wide.

3. Place the stencil on a silicone bakingsheet. Spread the preparation, removestencil.

4. Cook at 350ºF until the edges aregolden and the centers are justbeginning to color.

5. As soon as they are cool enough tohandle, remove the tuiles from thebaking sheet and shape the ribbon asa curlicues.

Assembly1. Place the cone in center of plate.

2. Spoon coulis alongside.

3. Decorate with the curlicue tuile.

Your Notes

29

Passion Fruit/Mango Mousse Double Chocolate Indulgence


Chocolate Love

Publisher’s Note: In the world of gourmet chocolatecreation, few can match the career and quality of NormanLove. As the former executive pastry chef for The Ritz-CarltonCompany, Norman Love understands the importance ofquality and presentation and his global brand of artisanchocolates can be found in innumerable retailers, restaurantsand hotels around the world. For more information on ChefNorman and his gourmet chocolates, please visit his website(www.normanloveconfections.com) or his retail salon in FortMyers, Florida.

Ingredients:Ingredients:Dark chocolateColored cocoa butterGold powder

Tools:Plastic acetateAirbrushCornetPolycarbonate demisphereParing knifeMetal triangleFine-tooth combMetal ringParchment paperSoft paint brushHot platePutty knifeLadle

31

2.

4.

1. Lightly moisten the table and adhereacetate to the table.

2. Place ample amount of chocolate onone edge of the table.

3. Drag comb across the chocolate.

4. Allow chocolate to slightly harden.

5. Form plastic into a circle, joining ends.Place metal ring over acetate to securein a circle.

6. Turn ring on side. Using a cornet, pipea bead of chocolate to seal opening.Allow to harden.

1. 3.

4. 5.

6.


Chocolate Love

8. 9.

7. Using a polycarbonate demisphere, spray chocolate intothe cavity of each mold.

8. Scrape the excess chocolate overspray off the surface ofthe mold.

9. Using a soft paint brush, paint gold powder thoroughlyinto each cavity of the mold.

10. Fill each cavity with tempered dark chocolate.

11. Scrape excess chocolate off the mold.

12. Turn mold completely over; tapping gently to discardexcess chocolate.

13. After dripping stops, scrape bottom of mold clean; placeon parchment paper for two to three minutes; chill molduntil hardened.

7.

11. 12.10.

13.

15. 16.14.

18. 19.17.

20.

14. Remove demispheres.

15. Quickly touch each demisphere ona heated surface.

16. Join two demispheres; then placein freezer for five minutes.

17. Place desired stencil on one-half ofball.

18. Spray with cocoa butter.

19. Allow to dry.

20. Remove plastic from coiledstripped chocolate circle.

21. Glaze cake.

To complete creation, place seam-sidedown; place ball in center.

33

21.


Chocolate Love


Bakery in Focus

By Karen SolomonPhotography by Michael Soo

25 years after its launch, Acme Bread Companycontinues to thrive. No multi channel marketing

initiatives. No bottom-line conscious managerial style.No cost cutting economization on ingredients or

manpower. What’s the secret? A sense of community.

From left:Doug Volkmer,Steve Sullivan

and Rick Kirkby

37

Organic goodness


Bakery in Focus

Bay Area almost three decades ago, hangs back from the road onan industrial warehouse on a street lined with auto (shops andparty supply shops. Acme’s laid-back presence, tucked into theintersection of Berkeley’s San Pablo and Cedar streets, shareswalls with Café Fanny, the informal, food-conscious café offshootof restaurant revolutionary Chez Panisse, and Kermit Lynch WineCellars, one of the nation’s most celebrated distributors. If youdidn’t know what you were looking for — intensely well crafted,well-crusted artisinal loafs in the old European style — you wouldnever notice this landmark in local culinary history.

Acme’s humble notoriety is an all-too-perfect reflection ofthe man who rolled out the company’s first baguettes, currentPresident and, with his wife, Susan, co-founder Steve Sullivan.Sullivan’s father was an amateur viticultural historian and wineenthusiast, and his mother was “quite a cook”. Both knew AliceWaters, as they were frequent customers of her growing restaurant,Berkeley’s Chez Panisse. Sullivan’s bread-baking began as a hobbywhile a student at UC Berkeley in the 1970s. With a resume ofrestaurant jobs behind him, he served as bus boy at the restaurant,but bread-baking became a serious hobby and, with a lot of helpand advice from friends, his kneading and rolling eventually gaverise to excellent results. “First, what I made was terrible. Then itbecame edible. Then, tolerable. And eventually, it becamedesirable,” Sullivan recalls.

T he understated, antique signpost for Acme BreadCompany, the (legendary artisan bakery that helpedlaunch the real foods revolution in the San Francisco

And once it got good, in 1980, it became the house breadof Waters’ famed kitchen of locally-sourced fresh ingredients.In 1983 Sullivan and his wife opened The Acme BreadCompany and their bread quickly became desirable in manyof the Bay Area’s most food-focused markets and diningestablishments. Ask Sullivan about any of his numerous awardsand accolades — notoriety recognized by Sunset Magazineand a number of other California publications, regular mentionin The New York Times, Gourmet, Bon Appetit, and othernational press, an opportunity to bake on The PBS showBaking with Julia Childs to name just a few — and he shylyglances down at his flour-dusted suede boots. “It’s always niceto hear that people like what you do,” he gets out. Though itseems to pain him to say.

The flagship location we visited is both bakery and retailshop, brandishing its selection of daily varieties from a menu of50 possibilities. The baker’s racks are decked with an elegant,leaf-patterned “rosemary ladder” fougasse, the classic pain aulevain (the biggest seller, along with baguettes), herb slabs, thegrainy ”upstairs bread”, and even tender pastries and sweets,such as flaky cinnamon twists and apple tarts. Seasonal offeringsmight also include pannetone, pumpkin bread, or the weekendchallah. There’s always a wait, and on weekend mornings, thebread, rolls, pastries, croissants, etc. attract a lengthy line of good-natured devotees. (Perhaps this is because Acme’s fresh-bakedeverything pairs so perfectly with Café Fanny’s excellent coffeeand outdoor seating.)

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Acme’s operation quickly outgrew the capabilities of thisinitial location. Demand for their bread soon required morespace. Sullivan claims that the number of loaves baked is neverprecisely tallied, though he does report cooking up approximately3.5 million pounds of organic flour a year. In 1989, six years afterthe company’s initial launch, The Sullivans, along with two long-time employees, Rick Kirkby and Doug Volkmer, opened a second,baking-only, facility that, with its most recent addition completedthis year, is now nine times the size of the original 1,500 squarefoot facility. Growing deliveries of bread to the area’s SouthBay/Silicon Valley from this second location later necessitated athird bakery in Mountain View, which Acme again accomplishedby allowing long-term employees to buy intothe company as owner-managers. And whenSan Francisco’s culinary showcase, the FerryBuilding Marketplace at the foot of MarketStreet opened up in 2004, Acme opened upa fourth bakery and second retail storefront.Today, Sullivan may not be able to count howmany loaves the bakery turns out, but heacknowledges that Acme brings in $12-$15million a year.

Clearly, business is booming. “We can’ttake on any new customers, but we have apolicy of accommodating growth by ourexisting customers” like Whole Foods Marketsand Trader Joe’s “and there does seem to bepressure for greater production. Fortunatelyfor me, owner and distribution managerDoug is on the front lines of that battle!” And yet, this breadmogul still comes across as the bus boy that happened to be atthe right place at the right time. “We’re not really strategicplanners. We just make decisions whenever they’re put in frontof us. Acme tries to bake and deliver the best bread we can.”

What’s remarkable about the growth of Acme Bread is that,like Chez Panisse, the owners have built the entire business (mostlywholesale to markets and hundreds of restaurants like ChezPanisse, Michael Mina, Bay Wolf and Zuni Café) without everspending a single penny on marketing, advertising, public relations,

or sales. Though Acme owns www.Acmebread.com, Sullivan hasnot yet felt the need for a website, claiming, “It’s just one morething for us to do.” Acme’s bread has always sold itself on itsconsistency, integrity, real flavor, and toothsome texture.

What’s helped propel Acme’s success is quality ingredientsthey use all organic flour, sourced by Rick Kirkby, who personallyconsults with farmers, brokers, and grain laboratories, and whostays in tune with seasonal variations in wheat crops. “I spenda lot of time finding varieties that work well for us,” Rick reports.“We prefer winter wheats, but we always see what the farmershave available based on color, flavor, and protein.”

Acme’s owners also believes that cultivating their staff is ofparamount importance, actually adding tothe quality of the bread and reducing therisk of losing employees to the competitionin an already crowded bread marketplace.At Acme all 168 employees have the benefitof company-paid health insurance, 401Kwith 100% company match, profit sharing,and other above-average benefits. As a result,turnover is low and many employees haveremained with the company for decades.

But good business isn’t just abouttreating people well. It’s also about how thebusiness is managed and operated. Theprivate company is concerned with far morethan just the bottom line. They pay morefor the organic flour — a lot more. At presstime, escalating flour prices meant they were

paying roughly twice the usual cost for organic wheat — $14 abushel versus around $7. Compare that to the cost of standardcommercial wheat, which can be as low as $3 for the sameamount, and it becomes evident that Acme is paying attentionto more than profits.

What’s also remarkable about Acme is that they have achieveda tremendous product output, while still maintaining the rusticnature and quality of the bread. One baker told me that healone had crafted about a thousand baguettes in an eight-hourshift. Yet any crusty loaf is still properly authentic, yielding

Clockwise from top: Acme staff attending to the hand formed product; Biodiesel delivery fleet, solar panels and the installationof an oven powered radiant floor heating system.

“We can’t takeon any newcustomers, butwe have apolicy toaccomodateexistingcustomers.”


Bakery in Focus

41

serious crust, great body, and a real earthen flavor. Acme doesuse some relatively modern, large-scale equipment: They havefitted the firebox of the second location’s wood-fired oven witha gas burner, and use old school L’Oiselet and Kemper spiralmixers. But mostly, Acme still depends on the tools andtechniques of small-batch and home baking, such as linen-lined wicker baskets for proofing the loaves and balance scalesfor checking the piece weight. Rolling out puff pastry by hand,and hand-forming individual loaves may not be the mostefficient business practices, but Acme feels that they are necessaryin order to maintain their standards.

Acme’s owners are pressing to make other aspects of theirbusiness more sustainable as well. They are in the midst ofinstalling a $475,000 system of solar panels on the roof of theirlargest baking facility to produce roughly half of the bakery’sneeded power. They are working on plans to use the heatgenerated by the ovens to heat office space and proofing rooms.And ten years ago, before any inkling of corporate greenwashingwas at every marketer’s lips, Sullivan began converting Acme’sdelivery fleet to natural gas, which now powers about a quarterof their trucks. In an initiative spearheaded by Rick Kirkby, Acmeis also in the midst of converting the company’s diesel trucks

Olive Loaf

Linen proofing cloth

“All 168 of his employeeshave the benefit of healthinsurance, 401K, profitsharing, and other above-average benefits.”

Bakery in Focus


Berkeley retail outlet

over to biodiesel and the bakeries are even cleanedwith natural products like Borax instead of harshchemical detergents. He reports that they “supportsustainable practices, always. That’s in ourcompany mind.”

Why not take the cheaper, faster route tosuccess? Surely a company with Acme’s clout couldrest on its laurels by now, and still succeed. Thebakery could have easily gone the way of, say, aBoudin or a Parisian (now defunct) two largesourdough bread manufacturers based in the SFBay Area who crank out loaves nationally and ona large scale. But instead Sullivan has opted to staylocal and serve just those who are fortunate enoughto live here from Sacramento to Los Gatos, SanFrancisco to Walnut Creek. “It’s not like my familyis walking around barefoot and hungry becauseof these decisions. But this is not an entrepreneurialeffort — we have plenty. Acme grew up within acommunity that needed better bread and our goaland greatest satisfaction is to supply thatcommunity’s needs. People are always trying tobuy us, but it’s just not what we want to do.”

But ask Sullivan about his contributions tothe bread revolution, and he offers only a casual,“Who, me?” shrug. Does he feel he’s part of aculinary uprising? “A gentle, delicious,revolution,” he concurs, when pressed. “Goodfood is what happens when agricultural landand a dynamic metropolitan area meet at thegates of the world. Bread’s inherent modestnesshas allowed it to ride this wave beyond thewealthy elite to a wider public.”


Bakery in Focus

Whole Wheat LoafHand forming the bread

45

Round Buns

Cranberry-Walnut Pumpkin LoavesYield: 3 small loaves

3 cups bread flour1 tsp cinnamon1/2 tsp grated nutmeg1/2 tsp salt2 tbsp tepid water (80°F - 90°F)2 tsp active dry yeast5 tbsp unsalted butter (room temperature)1/3 cup sugar8 oz (1 cup) pureed cooked pumpkin or butternut squash1 large egg (room temperature)3/4 cup walnut pieces, toasted1 cup raisins2/3 cup cranberries

Mixing and Kneading1. Whisk 22/3 cups of the flour, the cinnamon, nutmeg and

salt together in a large bowl. Set aside until needed.

2. Pour the water into a small bowl, sprinkle in the yeast andwhisk to blend. Allow the yeast to rest until it’s creamy,about 5 minutes.

3. In a mixer fitted with a paddle attachment, beat the butterand sugar at medium speed until creamy. Add the pumpkinand egg and beat until blended.

4. Set the mixer speed to low and add the yeast, and then beginto add the dry ingredients, about 1/2 cup at a time.

5. As soon as the mixture starts to form a dough that comestogether, scrape the paddle clean and switch to the doughhook. If your dough does not come together (it might bebecause your pumpkin puree was liquidy), add a few moretablespoons of flour.

6. Mix and knead the dough on medium-low speed for 10 to15 minutes, scraping the sides of the bowl and the hooknow and then with a rubber spatula.

7. With the mixer on low speed, add the walnuts and raisins,mixing only until incorporated, about 1 minute. Add thecranberries and mix as little as possible to avoid crushingthem.

First RiseScrape the dough into a lightly buttered large bowl, covertightly with plastic wrap and set aside at room temperatureto rise until nearly doubled in bulk, about 2 hours.

Chilling the DoughWhen the dough has doubled, fold it over on itself a coupleof times to deflate, wrap it tightly in plastic and refrigerateovernight.

Shaping the Dough1. At least 6 hours before you want to begin baking, remove

the dough from the refrigerator. Leave the dough, coveredin the bowl, until it reaches at least 64°F on an instant-readthermometer.

2. Lightly butter three 53/4 x 31/4 x 2 inch loaf pans.3. Working on a lightly floured surface, divide the dough into

thirds and pat each piece of dough into 5x7 inch rectangles.4. Starting at the top of each rectangle, roll up the dough

toward you and seal the seam by pressing it with yourfingertips. Seal the ends, then place each roll, seam sidedown, in a prepared pan.

Second RiseCover the pans lightly with a kitchen towel and allow to riseat room temperature for 11/2 - 2 hours, or until the dough hasnearly doubled-it will rise to just about the rim of the pans.

Baking the Bread1. Center a rack in the oven and preheat to 350°F.

2. Bake the loaves for about 35 minutes, or until deeply golden.

3. Remove the pans to a cooling rack. After 5 minutes rest,turn the breads out of their pans and allow them to coolto room temperature on the rack.

NoteTo use fresh pumpkin or butternut squash, split the squash,remove the seeds and place, cut side down, on a baking sheet.Roast in a preheated 350°F oven for about 1 hour or untilmeltingly tender. Scoop the softened pulp out of the shell andcool completely. One pound of squash yields about 12 ouncesof cooked pulp.


Creative Cakes

Apple-Cranberry and Fromage Blanc Mousse w/ Spiced AppleFilling and Cinnamon Meringue

Publisher’s Note: Chef Frank VollkommerCMPC, (Certified Master Pastry Chef) is theCorporate Executive Chef for Cargill Cocoaand Chocolate headquartered in Lititz, PA. ChefVollkommer, a former instructor at both TheCulinary Institute of America and The NewEngland Culinary Institute has earned thedistinction of Certified Master Pastry Chefthrough the America Culinary Federation. ChefVollkommer passed the rigorous ten-day examin 2005 becoming one of thirteen CertifiedMaster Pastry Chefs in the world.

Tools:2ea. Tube entremet molds2ea. Channel insert moldsSilicone baking matsAcrylic sheetAcetate plastic sheetsTorchPastry CombPastry rulerRolling pinPastry wheel

47

1.

2.

3.

4.

5.

Brêton Cookie Base40g Egg yolks41g Vanilla sugar80g Butter (room temperature)Pinch Salt115g Pastry flour7g Baking powder

• Foam yolks and sugar toribbon stage.

• Add soft butter and salt.• Sift together the pastry flour

and baking powder.• Blend in flour mixture.• Chill.

1-2. Prepare the Brêton Cookie Base recipe according to the recipeand chill the dough thoroughly. Roll the dough to 1/8” thicknessand cut rectangles slightly smaller that the entremet molds.Egg wash, sprinkle with coarse sugar and bake at 325ºF untilgolden brown and crisp.

Biscuit Meolleux57g 10x sugar57g Almond flour30g A.P. flour15g Egg yolks35g Egg whites112g Egg whites57g Sugar60g Almonds, granulated

• Blend the sugar, almond flour,A.P. flour, yolks and whites tomake a smooth paste.

• Make a medium peakmeringue with the egg whitesand sugar.

• Spread the mixture onto aparchment lined half sheetand sprinkle with thegranulated almonds.

• Bake at 375ºF for 6-9 minutes.

3. Prepare the Biscuit Meolleux mixture and bake at 375ºF.Cool the sponge and wrap tightly to prevent it from dryingout.

Apple-Cranberry Filling454g Apples, diced30g Brown sugar4g Orange zest7g Orange juice1 Vanilla bean60g Apricot jam15g White wine15g Calvados60g Cranberries, chopped1 Cinnamon stickPinch Clove, nutmeg4g Gelatin

4-5. Carefully stew all of the ingredients for the Apple-CranberryFilling until the fruit is translucent but retains shape.Remove the vanilla bean and cinnamon stick before addingthe bloomed gelatin to the warm filling. Line the channelmolds with acetate plastic and spread the mixture evenly.Freeze overnight.


Creative Cakes

6.

7.

8.

9.

10. 11. 12.

6-9. Using a pastry wheel and ruler, cut two pieces of BiscuitMeolleux for each entremet mold. Line the bottom andsides of each mold and attach a small sponge rectangleto the Brêton Cookie Base using apricot preserves.

Fromage Blanc Mousse56g Egg yolks68g Sugar24g Brandy185g Fromage blanc/Quark32g Milk2g Lemon zest12g Gelatin6g Vanilla ext.180g Cream, medium peaks

• Make a sabayon with the egg yolks, sugar and brandy.• Soften the cheese with the milk and add the zest.• Bloom and melt the gelatin with the vanilla.• Wisk the gelatin into the sabayon.• Fold the sabayon mixture into the cheese.• Fold in the whipped cream.

10. Prepare the Fromage Blanc Mousse and fill eachmold to slightly above half way making sure to leaveroom for the Apple-Cranberry Bavarian and Filling. Chill the Fromage Blanc Mousse to set.

11-12. Remove the Apple-Cranberry Filling from thechannel mold and place on top of the Fromage BlancMousse.

49

13.

14.

15.

16.

17.18.

Apple-Cranberry Bavarian75g Green apple puree75g Cranberry puree10g Raspberry puree14g Apple liqueur6g Gelatin150g Cream, medium peaks20g Sugar

• Warm the purees to 100ºF.• Bloom the gelatin, melt

with the apple liqueur andwisk into the pureemixture. Cool to 80ºF.

• Whip the cream to softpeaks with the sugar.

• Fold in the whipped cream.

13-15. Prepare the Apple-Cranberry Bavarian and fill themolds to within 1/4” from the top being sure not toallow any air pockets to form around the frozen fruitinsert. Press the Biscuit Meolleux and Brêton CookieBase into place evenly with the top of the mold andfreeze overnight.

Cinnamon Meringue170g Egg whites115g Sugar230g Sugar, granulated60g Water1g Cinnamon

• Make a stiff meringue with the whites and 10x sugar• Boil the granulated sugar and the water to soft ball stage

(240ºF) and add slowly to the meringue.• Cool the meringue on low speed and add the cinnamon.

16-18. Remove the cakes from the molds and trim the ends.Prepare the Cinnamon meringue and evenly apply athin layer using a pastry comb. Lightly caramelize themeringue using a torch.


Creative Cakes

19. 20.

21. 22. 23.

24. 25.

19-20. To prepare meringue mushroom garnishes, pipe Italian or Swiss meringue onto parchment or siliconebaking mats and dry in a 120ºF oven overnight. For apple chips, slice the apples very thinly using amandolin or sharp knife. Sprinkle the apple slices with powdered sugar and dry in a 120ºF oven untilcrisp. Store the apple chips and meringues in an airtight container.

21-26. (Garnishes and finishing)Create interesting theme related garnishes with chocolate using textured plastic, acetate, luster powder andcolorized cocoa butter. Layer the plastic starting with the luster powder and cocoa butter. Apply thin layersof tempered white and dark chocolate and cut while slightly pliable.

Additionally, chocolate “cinnamon sticks” may be created in the same manor as chocolate “cigarettes” bybrushing the sticks with cocoa butter and dusting with cinnamon.


Chef in Focus

Bringing The WOW!To Baltimore’s Inner Harbor

Being talented, focused and hard working does pay off.In three short years, Julie Jangali has gone from paralegal to heading

up the pastry kitchen at Baltimore’s largest hotel.

By Campbell Ross WalkerPhotography by Cris Molina and Steve Buchanan

Mini Pineapple Upside Down Cake

53

Preparing the Quartet

“I feel my background isperfectly suited for a modernday pastry chef. I appreciateattention to detail andbeauty and believe thereneeds to be an equal balancebetween visual appeal,tradition and taste.”


Chef in Focus

opportunity knocks and culinary professionals answer the door,the stress and anticipation of everything a new position has tooffer can be taxing.

There probably isn’t anything worse than the first few hoursat a new job. The introductions, hand shaking, mindless chitchat, awkward pauses and of course the countless first namesyou try so hard to remember but invariably forget. Being thenew guy (or girl) is never easy.

Yet, Julie Jangali is handling her new appointment as SeniorPastry Chef at the Baltimore Marriott Waterfront with aplomband loving the opportunity of putting her skills front and center.However, considering Julie’s age, gender and industry experience(3 years) her meteoric rise to helming the pastry operations ofBaltimore’s largest hotel has raised eyebrows.

“I would be lying if I told you I haven’t encountered animosityalong the way. But I won’t be dragged down by other people’shang ups. What I always try to do is lead by example and whencritics appear, I demonstrate my ability and passion for pastry,”Julie reports. “In the end, once they get to know me and experiencemy love for what I do, those detractors become allays and friends.”

Julie’s parents immigrated to the United States when she was5 and settled in Maryland. She grew up with the benefits of alarge, extended family that included an uncle who operated anIranian bakery. Her father was a jeweler and during her formativeyears, Julie found herself pulling shifts in both the bakery andjewelry shop. When she wasn’t sketching ring settings or designingintricate, jeweled brooches, Julie was at her uncle’s side deep intothe production of Iranian sweets like shirini, bamieh, and Noonnokhodchi.

I t’s inevitable, of course. Change. Nowhere more sothan in the hospitality industry. Properties open,restaurants close and chefs move up or out. When

Inside the Kenmore square outlet

Baltimore Marriott Waterfront: Grill 700

Julie Jangali

55

Pineapple Parfait

“I feel my background is perfectly suited for a modern daypastry chef. I appreciate attention to detail and beauty and believethere needs to be an equal balance between visual appeal, traditionand taste. And with my Iranian heritage, I have the ability to useand play with distinct flavors such as saffron, rose water,cardamom and pistachios,” says Chef Julie.

Working hard and being extremely goal oriented is part andparcel of Julie Jangali’s physiological makeup. She is also a firmbeliever in “doing what you love” so after graduating fromAmerican University with honors and landing a job as a paralegalin a prominent DC law firm, she came to grips with the fact thata career in law was not her true calling. “It didn’t get me excited.I knew it wasn’t what I was supposed to be doing. I craved acreative outlet, one in which my vision and work ethic couldprovide self satisfaction and daily challenges,” explains Julie.

With this realization firmly in hand, Julie wasted little timeand resigned from her law firm gig and headed straight into thePasty Arts Program at L’Academie de Cuisine in Maryland. Asshe expected, Julie excelled in the program and she soon set hersights on gaining real world experience outside the classroom.“While enrolled at L’Academie de Cuisine, I volunteered at the

Albert Uster Sweet Charity event at the Women’s Memorial inVirginia. I figured it was an excellent opportunity to meet workingprofessionals and pitch them on the idea of an apprenticeship.After meeting (and pestering) almost everyone in the room, Iwas introduced to Executive Pastry Chef Mohan DeSilva fromthe Wardman Park Marriott Washington, DC. That was a luckybreak,” Julie remembers fondly.

As it turns out, Chef Mohan was running short handed andwas receptive to the idea of a part-time apprentice. Julie’s footwas firmly in the door and after several months of trial by fire,Chef Mohan offered Julie her first full-time pastry job. In a mere8 months, Julie had made a career altering decision, completeda concentrated culinary program (at the top of her class) andsecured a position in Washington’s preeminent pastry kitchenunder the tutelage of a renowned chef, very willing to teach andshare his craft. For Julie Jangali, the combination of a true mentorand immersion within one of America’s most progressivecorporate cultures would prove a winning combination.

“I can’t say enough about Chef Mohan. He is truly myculinary hero and guiding light. He took a chance andbestowed upon me a great deal of responsibility, early in my


Chef in Focus

Yule Log

All Spice Créme Brulée Chocolate Mousse Cherry & WhiteChocolate Cocktail

career, and I am forever grateful for his support andfriendship,” says Julie.

Upon landing the perfect job, Julie went to work everydayeager to contribute and discover. Such a healthy, symbioticrelationship is often hard to find in the a la minute worldof gastronomy, but in learning more about Chef Julie, theold adage ‘the harder one works, the luckier one becomes’is on point. Certainly, nothing was handed to this pastryupstart, who constantly pushes herself and her every growingrepertoire of skills. Case in point would be her bold initiativeto secure a spot on Mohan DeSilva’s 2005 National TeamPastry Championship squad.

“I really wanted to compete but being new to the job, Ihad to work extra hard to impress upon Chef DeSilva thatno only could I keep up with the requirements of my day-to-day, but that I could also contribute to the overall successof the team. I earned the spot and was responsible for thechocolate showpiece. It turned out to be one of the highlightsof my professional career. We didn’t win but being part ofthe team was an incredible experience and I learned so muchabout working with others, organization and timemanagement,” remembers Julie.

Chef Julie next turned her sights onto the 2006Hotelympia in London where she represented the WardmanPark Marriott and returned home with silver medals inChocolate and Sugar Showpiece and the Cold Buffet.

“In my 38 years in the kitchen, Julie Jangali is the mostunique, talented chef I’ve had the pleasure of working with.What I most admire is her openness and thirst for knowledge.She arrived at the Wardman Park and asked to be taught.

2007 Sweet Charity Event


Chef in Focus

Pistachio Éclairs

Unlike most fresh graduates who believe they knoweverything, she understood the tremendous differencebetween theoretical and practical. In terms of innate talent,organization, determination and creativity, I have not seenher equal,” offers Chef Mohan DeSilva.

As Julie gained international exposure and moreconfidence in her abilities, she was rewarded with moreresponsibilities at the Wardman Park. Being D.C.’s largesthotel property, State dinners for 900 are rather commonplace.Thus, Chef DeSilva was quick to leverage his new chef andtasked Julie with critical administrative duties such as overallordering for the hotel pastry kitchen along with the creation,presentation and implementation of the dessert menu forthe hotel’s newest outlet, Stone’s Throw Restaurant.

“An absolute thrill. When I was asked to create thedessert menu for Stone’s Throw I felt vindicated in mydecision to pursue my passion for pastry. The interactionwith the restaurant’s executive chef and the F&B managementwas exciting which was heightened by the positiveenvironment inside the hotel and the overall appreciationfor the highest quality desserts,” say Julie.

Perhaps a test by a loyal mentor, but Julie’s stunningsuccess with the dessert menu at Stone's Throw put her onthe radar of Marriot Corporation higher ups and set thewheels in motion for her consideration in taking charge ofthe pastry program at the Baltimore Marriott Waterfront.It’s worth noting that such contemplation is indeed a rarityin the world of four-five star hotel operations. But Julieworks for Marriott, a 2002 Catalyst Award winner for itsdemonstrated success in advancing women's leadership inthe workplace.

There is no denying that women are severelyunderrepresented in the upper tiers of hotel pastrydepartments. Sure, a great number of female pastry chefshave gained notoriety in restaurants and stand alone shops,but very few make it to the top in hotels. Why is that? Is itbecause of the traditionally “euro-centric” atmosphere ofhotel culinary operations or the heightened demands of thejob where volume is king? Think fast: how many female

Espresso Delight

Cold Cherry Soufflé

Frangelico Fantasy Mousse

59


Chef in Focus

barriers keeping women from advancing in their careers. Forthat, Marriott should be commended. Pardon the digression.

Interestingly enough, the Baltimore waterfront has gonethrough a recent transformation with a new promenade that isnow the focal point of everything. This attractive, wide brickwalkway connects many of the Inner Harbor’s most popularattractions, museums and restaurants. You can walk from thefar side of the harbor, past the Maryland Science Center andHarborplace, alongside USS Constellation, around the NationalAquarium, and around to Fell's Point.

Development begets tourists and visitors, who in turn bringdisposable income and eventually their conventions andfunctions. Such an equation sends signals to the hospitalityindustry and now the Baltimore Marriott Waterfront faces aninflux of competitors. Unfortunately, the hotel has been withouta pastry chef from the last two years, relying on the executivechef, pastry cooks and outside suppliers to plug the gaps. In thisnew environment, hotel management realized they needed toraise their gastronomic bar and marching orders were given tofind a pastry chef. Not just any pastry chef but one who couldbe instrumental in helping the Baltimore Marriott Waterfrontdifferentiate itself from the ever increasing pack of challengersand infuse a “wow” factor in the display, presentation and tasteof the properties’ showpieces and desserts.

To make a not-so-long story shorter, Julie was contacted byMarriott management and alerted to the opening in Baltimore.A quick check with Chef DeSilva (loyalty is an excellent quality)and she enthusiastically threw her hat into the ring forconsideration. Needless to say, she aced the interview, clickedwith the executive chef and F&B director and started inSeptember 2007.

Like any new job, it takes time to acclimate and find yourgrove. New faces and attitudes, different kitchen set-up with newequipment, fresh suppliers etc. But all of this inconsequentialto Chef Julie. She is focused on making the most of this rareopportunity and determined to prove to herself (and others)she made the right decision in following her heart and pursuingher pastry passion.

pastry chefs, executive pastry chefs or corporate pastry chefs canyou name that run the operations for a major hotel/hotel group?I do this for a living and I can only think of a handful.

It doesn’t help that the U.S. Department of Labor considers‘chef ’ a “non-traditional” job for women, placing it on the samelist with jobs such as construction worker, firefighter and detective.But Marriott is a company that has worked tirelessly to eradicate

Tropical PleasureCoconut Dacquois Sponge(Base of pineapple mousse)300g egg whites80g sugar110g icing sugar70g ground almonds125g ground coconut70g starch35g butter

1. Mix the egg whites with the sugar until stiff thendelicately add the sifted ground almonds, icing sugar,ground coconut, starch then the cold melted butter.

2. Spread the coconut dacquois over a silicone mat andsmooth with a spatula

3. Bake at 160°C for 15 minutes.

Pineapple Mousse380g pineapple puree18g gelatin300g sugar300 ml water150g egg whites380g whipped cream

1. Heat half the puree with the sugar to 45°C.

2. Incorporate the hydrated gelatin then strain.

3. Cool the mixture with the other half of the puree beforeadding the whipped cream.

Julie andExecutive ChefTim Mullen

Wild Sweets

Unique properties provide opportunities to makepreparations with novel tastes and/or textures.

Publisher’s Note: Dominique and Cindy Duby are thechefs and owners of DC DUBY Wild Sweets®, a criticallyacclaimed chocolate atelier and virtual boutique, which hasemerged as one of North America’s finest artisan chocolatiers.The couple also owns DC DUBY Hospitality Services Inc.,a Vancouver-based international firm offering culinary trainingand consulting services to hotels and catering companiesworldwide, as well as culinary creative and marketing servicessuch as product development, food styling, and photography.For more information, visit www.dcduby.com


MoreAgarwith

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HOT RASPBERRY GELÉE WITH DARKCHOCOLATE ‘MARSHMALLOW’

Serves 8

Hot Raspberry Gelée1 cup (250 ml) raspberry purée1/2 tsp (2.5 ml) DC DUBY Elements Agar*pinch of citric acid (optional)1/2 leaf gelatin4 Tbsp (60 ml) corn syrup

*NB: Other sources of agar may be substituted, but gellingproperties and firmness may differ.

Line a 4 x 8 inch (10 x 20 cm) shallow container with plasticwrap. Place the raspberry purée into a tall and narrow container.Add the agar powder, citric acid (if using) and blend with animmersion blender. Transfer the mixture into a saucepan, addthe corn syrup and bring to a boil. Continue to cook until themixture begins to thicken, then remove from the heat and stir inthe gelatin until dissolved. Immediately pour into the plasticwrap-lined container. Let it set at room temperature. Store theGelée in the refrigerator for up to 2 days. Serve warm.

DC DUBY | ELEMENTS | AGAR– Part 2The typical ratio to make an agar gel is around 1% of total

liquids. Note that too much agar will result in a gel with a

‘grainy’ texture. Agar gels are not very ‘elastic’ and can actually

break quite easily, thus these gels are best served flat or cut

into small shapes. Elasticity can be improved though the

addition of some sorbitol or glycerin. Salt, sugar or slight

acidity does not affect the gelling process with agar. However,

since liquids need to be heated to the boiling point, for fresh

herb juices and other similar liquids that are prone to quick

oxidation, agar is not recommended as the gelling agent.

Other ‘specialty’ hydrocolloids yielding similar gelling

properties as agar such as carageeanan or gellan are starting

to surface as these provide distinct properties such as increased

elasticity, softer setting or lower melting point. Since all of

these hydrocolloids are plant based they are also used as a

vegetar ian alternative to gelatin. The following

recipe showcases another example of a hot gelée taken

from our latest book: Wild Sweets Chocolate.

63

Dark Raspberry Chocolate3.6 oz (100 g) 70% dark chocolate, chopped1 cup (250 ml) raspberry purée1 cup (250 ml) whipping cream

Place the chocolate in a tall and narrow container. Bring theraspberry purée and whipping cream to a boil in a saucepan.Remove from the heat and pour over the chocolate. Blendwith an immersion blender until well combined and frothy.Serve immediately.

Cocoa Crisp3 Tbsp (45g) unsalted butter, room temperature1/2 cup (100g) granulated sugar3 Tbsp (45ml) orange juice1 1/2 Tbsp (15g) all-purpose flour1 Tbsp (8g) unsweetened cocoa powder

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Cream the butter and sugar with a spatula. Add the orange juiceand mix until well combined. Sift in the flour and cocoa powder.Fold to combine.

Refrigerate the batter in a sealed container for at least 2 hours(overnight is best).

Preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C). Line a baking tray with a siliconmat or paper. Shape the cold batter into 11/2” squares. Bake forapproximately 4 to 6 minutes. Remove from the tray and let themcool on a wire rack. Once cooled, store in an airtight container.


Chocolate ‘Marshmallow’6 Tbsp (90g) granulated sugar, divided2 Tbsp (30ml) water3 Tbsp (30ml) egg whites1 leaf gelatin, bloomed1 Tbsp (8g) unsweetened cocoa powder, sifted

Bring 5 Tbsp (75 g) of the sugar to a boil in a saucepan with thewater. Simmer until it begins to thicken (around 230°F/110°C).

Meanwhile, whip the egg whites on medium speed with an electricmixer. When the sugar water begins to thicken, turn the mixer’sspeed to maximun and add the remaining 1 Tbsp (15 g) sugar.Continue whipping for 30 seconds. Add the hot thickened sugarsyrup with the machine still running. Add the gelatin, and whenwell imcorporated, reduce the speed to low and continue mixinguntil the mixture thickens (about 4 to 5 minutes). Add the cocoapowder, fold with a rubber spatula, and serve immediately.

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Wild Sweets

Suggested AssemblyCut the Hot Raspberry Gelée into desired shapes. Pipe orspoon some Chocolate Marshmallow on top of the RaspberryGelée. Spike 3 Cocoa Crisps into the gelée and finish withfresh raspberries and a mint leaf. Serve immedately with aglass of hot frothed Dark Raspberry Chocolate.

Hot Raspberry Gelée withDark Chocolate ‘Marshmallow’

Photography by DC Duby

65

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Subscribe online at www.PastryAP.com

A S I A P A C I F I C

From Tokyo to Sydney, Mumbai to Manila,Pastry & Baking Asia Pacific has you covered.

Asian Fusion

67

Green Tea Cake

RECIPE

Green Tea Sponge

50g (1/4 cup) Milk

8g (11/2 tbsp) Green tea powder

60g (3) Egg yolks

17g (4 tsp) A. sugar

67g (1/2 cup) Cake flour

17g (3 tbsp) Almond flour

2g (1/2 tsp) Vanilla extract

33g (2 1/2 tbsp) Unsalted butter

90g (3) Egg whites

100g (1/2 cup and 2 tbsp) B. sugar

Green tea cream

10g (2 tbsp) Green tea powder

20g (4 tsp) Orange liqueur

150g (3/4 cup) unsalted butter

300g (11/4 cups) Custard cream

Toppings

Sweet red beans

Chopped walnuts

200g (7 oz) White chocolate

Before you begin:

1. Preheat the oven to 430°F/222C. Grease or line the 15”x11”(38cm x 28cm) rectangular cake pan with parchment paperand set aside.

2. Mix and sift the cake flour and almond flour from thesponge ingredients and set aside.

3. Make the custard cream before making the green tea creamand keep it refrigerated.

4. Put butter (from sponge ingredients) in a separate bowland place the bowl over a saucepan of hot water to meltthe butter. Keep melted until ready to use for the sponge.

Green tea is one of the most popular beverages to hit North America

in the last decade. Unlike black tea or oolong, green tea is made from

unfermented tea leaves. Because it is does not go through a fermentation

process, research suggests that it contains the highest concentration of

polyphenols, antioxidants that rid of the body of free radicals.

In Asia, where people smoke heavily and green tea is widely consumed,

there is a lower incidence of cardiovascular disease and cancer. Some

scientists refer to this as the “Asian Paradox” and draw a direct linkage

between this phenomenon and green tea consumption. Publisher’s Note:Successful entrepreneur, award winning author,instructor, international representative and currentPresident of the Korean Bakers Association, ChefKim Young Mo is an institution. As a trailblazingvisionary in the pastry and baking fusionmovement, Chef Kim marries his classicalEuropean training with his appreciation for Asianingredients and tastes. Photos and text courtesy ofDream Character, Inc.


Steps:

1. Green Tea Sponge. Put milk and green tea powder in apot bring to a boil. Once a boil is reached, turn of theheat.

2. Beat the egg yolks and A. sugar in a bowl for about 1minute. Then, add the hot green tea milk little by littlewhile beating the batter (do not pour all at once). Beatthe batter for 2-3 minutes. In a separate bowl, put eggwhites and B. sugar and make a stiff meringue.

3. Add half of the meringue and mix in with a rubberspatula. Add the sifted cake flour and almond flour andfold in well. Add the melted butter and mix in together.

4. Add the remaining meringue and vanilla extract andgently fold in well.

5. Bake. Pour the batter onto the prepared pan and use ascraper to level out the batter. In a preheated oven, bakefor approximately 6 minutes at 430°F. Remove the spongeand cool on a rack. When the sponge is completely cool,carefully remove the parchment paper and cut the spongeinto four squares (or rectangles).

6. Green tea cream. While you are waiting for the spongeto cool down, make the green tea cream. First, combinegreen tea powder and orange liqueur in a bowl and mix.Then, beat the butter in a separate bowl for 1-2 minutes.Add the custard cream to the butter and whisk a fewtimes, then add the green tea powder with liqueur andwhisk together well.

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Asian Fusion

69

8. After you put the last sponge on top, apply a thick layerof cream and tap the cream using the tip of a metalspatula to make small, wave-like peaks.

9. Decoration. Scrape the white chocolate using a cookiecutter to get nice, decorative flakes. Scrape enough toloosely cover the cake.

10. Trim all four sides of the cake. Sprinkle on the whitechocolate flakes to complete decoration.

7. Layering. Spread the green tea cream over the bottom sponge,sprinkle on the sweet red beans and apply a thin layer ofcream again. Put another sponge on top and repeat.

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The only magazine in North America specifically published for dessert professionals.Each issue will provide:

Industry news, current events, competition results.

Recipes, demonstrations and the latest techniques.

Step by step instruction from our world-renownedpanel of Guest Contributors.

Truly regional coverage of hard working professionalswho share their experiences, stories and advice.

Complimentary online site for recipe archives andeducational videos.

Subscribe online atwww.PastryNA.com

introducing...Pastry&baking

N O R T H A M E R I C A

AS pane TRA.indd 1 15-10-2007 14:38:02

Boiron Frères SA1, rue des Glacières - 94538 Rungis Cedex - FranceTel: 33 1 45 60 73 32 - Fax: 33 1 46 86 52 72e-mail: [email protected]

Come up with one fruity idea a week with Les Vergers Boiron!

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the taste of freshly picked fruit, trendy fl avors and irresistible colors.

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52 fruity fl avors:

NEWGuava and green tea

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an idea every week

pastry & baking volume 1 issue 2 2007

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