pastry & baking voume 2 issue 1 2008

Volume 2 Issue 1 2008

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W W W . PA S T R Y N A . C O M

All Eyes on China

World Chocolate Masters

Captain ExactitudeDavid Ramirez

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2 Pastry & Baking North America

Published by

Synergy1 Group, Inc.

www.PastryNA.com

PUBLISHERSynergy1 Board of Directors

EDITOR IN CHIEF Joe Marcionette

CREATIVE DIRECTORLisa Dinges

SENIOR EDITORCampbell Ross Walker

ASIA PACIFIC EDITORRachel Lee

NETWORK MANAGERMichael Ethier

SENIOR WRITERSDavid Martell, Laura Geatty

CORPORATE OFFICES:

North America

PO Box 291162

Port Orange, Florida

32129-1162

Email: [email protected]

Asia Pacific

32 Maxwell Road #03-07

White House Building

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Fax: (65) 6323 1839

Pastry&bakingN O R T H A M E R I C A

Pastry & Baking North America Volume 2, Issue 1.All rights reserved. © under Universal International

and Pan American Copyright conventions. Thispublication is a creative work fully protected by all

applicable copyright laws, as well as bymisappropriation, trade secret, unfair competition

and other applicable laws.

Regards,

Joe MarcionetteEditor-in-Chief

email: [email protected]

Everywhere you look these daysthere is another competition,contest or culinary challengefor dessert professionals. Withthis increase in the number ofevents, I hear grumblings fromsome professionals,gastronomic purests and“management” types that suchcompetitions are negativelyrealigning the perspective oftoday’s pastry chefs, bakers,confectioners and chocolatiers.

The “anti competition” faction’s argument goes something like this:competitions condition the participating professional to focus onthe extreme and flamboyant rather than traditional characteristicsand tastes and in doing so, the participant will detrimentally impacttheir own skills which will ultimately lead to the abandonment ofstandards in their craft. Quite the hypothesis! Fortunately, this theoryis without merit.

Yes, competitions do require a great deal of commitment, time andfunding and perhaps there in lies the conflict. But, the byproduct ofcompeting far outweighs any short-term sacrifice. As a case in point,please enjoy this issue’s feature on the World Chocolate Masters andbe prepared for forthcoming articles on:

U.S. Pastry CompetitionCoupe du Monde de la PâtisserieCoupe du Monde de la BoulangerieAsian Pastry CupWorld Team Pastry ChampionshipInternational Confectionary Art CompetitionThe Great American Dessert Experience

Having attended many a competition, I believe they are a vital part ofthe industry and act as a catalyst; promoting standards andcraftsmanship which are in turn are brought back to various geographicregions via attending representatives. Other obvious benefits tocompeting include team building, networking and increased confidence.Thus. competitions, whether local, regional or international shouldbe encouraged and widely supported for their educational impact andadvancement of skills.

Nothing ventured, nothing ever gained.

All the best!

CompetitionsAbound!CompetitionsAbound!


Pastry&bakingN O R T H A M E R I C A

14RegionalShowcaseJoin P&B NA on our tour of NorthAmerica as we visit and showcasetalented professionals who sharetheir favorite products and recipes.

34Eyes of theWorldAs China prepares for thissummer’s Olympics, pastryprofessional Charles Zhao returnsto his hometown of Beijing to beon the culinary front lines as theeyes of the world focus on theChinese capital.

50CaptainExactitudeDavid Ramirez’s precise approachto pastry serves him well at theShingle Creek Hotel in Floridaand as the newly selected Captainfor the Coupe du Monde TeamUSA 2009.

6Off The WireThe latest news, happenings,events and product updates.

10Sugar ArtsThe incomparable Ewald Notterprovides step-by-step instructionand insight into his passionand craft.

30Chocolate LovePastry chef and chocolatierextraordinaire Norman Lovedelves deep into building skillsand techniques.

44World ChocolateMastersComplete coverage of this event and

the extraordinary artistry exhibited.

67Asian FusionLegendary Kim Young Mo shares hisunique approach to the marriage ofclassic European pastry/baking withAsian tastes and sensibilities.

House Specials16

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Off The Wire

News, events andhappenings fromaround the region

2008 Great AmericanPie FestivalThe 2008 Great American Pie Festivalsponsored by Crisco® will turn the townof Celebration, Fla., into the world’spie capital for two flavor-filled days,April 19 and 20. Presented by theAmerican Pie Council (APC) – anorganization dedicated to preservingAmerica’s pie heritage – the popularfestival returns to Celebration with allthe activities that have made it a favoritefamily event for the past five years.

The highlight of the festival is theNever Ending Pie Buffet, serving award-winning pies from commercialbakeries, restaurants and markets,including Bakers Square & Village Innrestaurants; Publix SuperMarkets, Inc.;Schwan’s Bakery featuring Edwards andMrs. Smith Pies; Bonert’s Slice of Pie,Kenny’s Great Pies, Harlan Bakeries,Sara Lee and Wick’s Pies. An abundantarray of ice cream flavors and toppingsfrom The J.M. Smucker Company andPublix allow everyone the opportunity to personalize their pie.

Between trips to the buffet, festival attendees can enjoy pie-eating contests (by participating or cheering on contestants),

baking demonstrations by professional pie makers on theDemonstration Stage, games and live entertainment – and even

the opportunity for young pie enthusiaststo make their own pie at the Crisco® KidsCreation Station. All festival events willbe held both days.

While attendees enjoy the food andfun, competition heats up with theA P C / C r i s c o ® N a t i o n a l P i eChampionships as the nation’s leadingCommercial, Professional, Amateur andJunior Chef pie bakers vie to determinethe top pie in each division. Grand prizein the amateur and professional divisionsis $5,000 and serious bragging rights.Competitions will be held at the OrlandoSun Resort by Lexington, Kissimmee, onApril 18 through 20.

Baking competitions are not opento the public. However, the awardceremonies for the Amateur andProfessional divisions will be held atCelebration as part of the festivities, withthe Amateur awards presented at 6:45

p.m., April 19; and Professional and Junior Chef awards presentedat 2 p.m., April 20. Commercial division awards will be presentedin an industry-only ceremony on April 18.

New York City’s finest pastry chefs and bakers led deliciouslydesigned workshops on a variety of mouthwatering topicsincluding fanciful wedding cakes, desserts with internationalflavor, and the latest in the high-tech pastry revolution. Guestchefs included Ron Ben-Israel of Ron Ben-Israel Cakes, NancyOlson of Gramercy Tavern, Dominique Ansel of Daniel, WendyIsrael and Angel Elon of Baking by Design, Magdalena Wong ofKyotofu, Eric Bedoucha of Financier Pâtisserie, Shimme of WholeFoods Market and Jorge Pineda of Candle Café, Victoria Love ofThe Water Club, Cristobal Julio Guarchaj of Grandaisy Bakery,Jaime Sudberg of The Stanton Social, and Kir Rodriguez, DavidArnold, and Nils Norén, of The French Culinary Institute.

Whether you were looking to be a seasoned chef, buddinghome baker, or just someone who enjoys the sweeter things inlife, this day of dessert featured lessons on the finer points ofcake design with a how-to on custom-made silicone molds, alesson in French cakes, and a hands-on class on piping techniques.In addition, food lovers explored the bounty of bread with richbrioche, rustic loaves, pizza, and discovered the art of elegantdesserts that span the globe with classic Italian style, a Japanesesensibility, and a taste of vintage Americana. But don’t fret, ifyou missed the festivities… SAVE THE DATE for PastryScoop.com’s Spring 2008 Conference on Sunday, May 4th or log ontowww.pastryscoop.com!

Event sponsors included The French Culinary Institute,The Italian Culinary Academy, E. Guittard Chocolate Company,Geoff & Drew’s Incredible Cookies, Président Cheese, andWhole Foods Market with special thanks to Everyday Foodfrom the Test Kitchens of Martha Stewart Living and MarthaStewart Living Omnimedia, The FCI’s student and staffvolunteers and Classic Pastry Arts and Art of InternationalBread Baking Departments, Gingerbread Homes for Animals,and Pastry & Baking North America.

PastryScoop’s Fall 2007ConferenceThe French Culinary Institute’s PastryScoop.com, one of thecountry’s most popular online resources dedicated to supportingand celebrating the art of pastry and baking, recently hosted a dayof dessert at their Fall 2007 Conference. Marked as one of NewYork’s sweetest days of the year, this special event was held in thekitchens of The French Culinary Institute at The InternationalCulinary Center located at 462 Broadway at Grand Street.

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Business Innovator ofthe Year

The King Arthur Flour Company of Norwich, Vt., washonored recently with the Business Innovator of the YearAward presented for the first time by the Hanover AreaChamber of Commerce.

“The innovation King Arthur Flour has been recognizedfor stems from both the diversity of knowledge and skillsamong our staff, and the fact that as employee-owners of thecompany, we have an added incentive to work through thatdiversity and turn it to our advantage,” said Media RelationsCoordinator Allison Furbish. “We encourage our employee-owners to contribute not just their time and energy but theirideas, and that has continually resulted in the kinds of high-quality products and creative programs that we’re proud tobe able to share.”

King Arthur Flour was recognized “for the way it has takenthe simple act of baking and innovatively turned that into afar-ranging enterprise that touches the lives of millions invery wholesome ways,” according to the Chamber. “They haveaccomplished this not only with a great product – regardedby experts as the highest quality flour in America – but alsowith their imaginative breadth of baking-related productsand services, their employee-owned business model andculture, and their everyday commitment to the communitiesin which they live.”

America’s oldest flour company, King Arthur Flour wasfounded in Boston, Mass., in 1790 and moved its headquartersto Vermont in 1986. The company has grown since then froma regional staple to a brand known nationwide for its purityand consistent quality; from a small mail-order business withfive employees in 1990 to the premier baking resource withnearly 200 employees today; from a family-owned operationfor five generations to a 100 percent employee-owned business.King Arthur Flour has received several recent recognitions,including the 2006 Outstanding Vermont Business Award, the2006 Best Place to Work in Vermont Award, and the 2006Better Business Bureau Local Torch Award for Excellence.King Arthur Flour is the parent company of The Baker’sCatalogue, which offers more than 1,000 professional-gradebaking tools and ingredients through its catalogue, online atwww.kingarthurflour.com, and at The Baker’s Store inNorwich, Vt.

Ron Ben-Israel


Off The Wire

Nordic Ware’s Bundts AcrossAmerica ContestAnne Kornow from Dexter, Michigan captured the $10,000grand prize for the “Bundts Across America” baking contestsponsored by Nordic Ware, creator of the Bundt pan. Thisyear’s contest theme was “Holiday Bundts, a pan for all seasons”and Anne Kornow created an original recipe that is melt-in-your-mouth-marvelous! For her winning Bundt cake, Annealso received a trip to New York City to sit in the audience ofthe Martha Stewart Show on November 15 during the 2ndAnnual “National Bundt Day” celebration where she will berecognized for her winning recipe.

“This recipe is truly outstanding,” says David Dalquist,president of Nordic Ware. “It has everything that a prize winningBundt cake should have, with its nice dense texture and its richchocolate flavor dramatically blended with white chocolateand mint. It is the perfect dessert to serve families and friendswhile celebrating the upcoming holidays and one that willassure lasting memories of the time spent together.”

A SWEET EventManhattan’s sweet tooth was satisfied like never before onNovember 16th when approximately 1,500 guests descendedupon the ultra chic Waterfront to celebrate SWEET, presentedby Ferrero Rocher, a deliciously decadent evening with a charitableoutcome to end hunger. Guests sampled the mouthwateringcreations of New York’s premiere pastry chefs, chocolatiers,confectioners, bakers and fromagers, including such notableJames Beard Outstanding Pastry Chef award winners andnominees as Le Bernardin’s Michael Laiskonis (2007), DessertStudio at Chocolat Michel Cluizel’s Will Goldfarb (2007), JeanGeorges’ Johnny Iuzzini (2006), and Karen DeMasco of Craft(2005). Also participating in the festivities were Food Networkstars Rachael Ray, Giada De Laurentiis, Duff Goldman, Cat Coraand Sandra Lee. Desserts were complemented by selections ofoutstanding wines, Champagnes and spirits from the SouthernWine & Spirits, NY portfolio.

Guests had the unique opportunity to enjoy a wide range oftempting desserts featuring inventive flavor and texturecombinations, such as Tomato with Olive and Balsamic Sorbetby Graffiti’s Jehangir Mehta, Roasted Banana Mille Feuille,Chocolate Fondant with an Avocado Anglaise by Buddakan’sDaniel Skurnick, and Soft Chocolate, Frozen Sesame, PowderedPeanut Butter, Mole, by Tailor’s Sam Mason. More traditionalsweet offerings included Petits Fours: Lemon Cupcakes, Caramels,Pumpkin Tarts, Rainbow Cookies and Chocolates by GothamBar and Grill’s Deborah Racicot, Chocolate Mousse Cheesecakeby Junior’s Alan Rosen, and Wedding Biscotti: A Rosemary andCurrant Biscotti by Katie Lee Joel.

“We are thrilled to be a part of SWEET presented by FerreroRocher, and bring New York a completely different culinary eventin honor of our upcoming New York City Wine & Food Festivalto hit in 2008,” said Brooke Johnson, President, Food Network.“This is a perfect example of how Food Network will contributeto the generous culinary community with our new charitablepartner Share Our Strength.”

Anne Kornow’s winning recipe, “Mint Mountains” celebratesthe holiday season using Nordic Ware’s Holiday Tree BundtPan. The dense and decadent cake is a combination of whitechocolate and chocolate fudge featuring a hint of mint. Thepan showcases the cake’s “mountain peaks” through a circle of“snow-capped” evergreen trees. Mint sprigs and crushed redpeppermint candy garnish the cake which pleases both the eyeand pallet!

Along with her grand prize win, Anne Kornow is celebratinga second round of good news that came while she was in SanFrancisco at the bake-off for the “Bundts Across America”competition. “I was with another finalist on a cable car ride.When I stepped off, my phone began to ring. I answered andgot the news my son-in-law Brian was coming home from Iraq.Coupled with the Nordic Ware win, you can imagine howblessed I feel.”

The panel of judges included Anita Chu, dessert aficionadoand founder of Dessert First; Margo Murdock Murphy, thegrand prize winner in the 2006 “Bundts Across America” contest;and Kathy Severson, Vice President Sales and National SalesManager and a 29+-year employee of Nordic Ware.

After seeing and tasting so many Bundt cakes the judgeshad a hard decision to make but Anne Kornow’s MintMountains clearly stood tall above the others. “This looks likea perfect snow covered forest, from layers of white and chocolate

cake mimicking the coloring of a mountainside to the dustingof confectioner’s sugar “snow”.” Says Anita Chu. “I thought thisentry best utilized the shape of the Bundt pan and captured spiritof the holiday best, as well as being fabulously delicious.”

The winning recipe and others can be found at www.nordicware.com/bundts-across-america/winners/year/2007.

Back row (left to right): Florian Bellanger (MAD-MAC), Alan Rosen(Junior’s), Morris Harrar (Tisserie Bakery), Sam Mason (Tailor), WillGoldfarb (Dessert Studio at Chocolat Michel Cluizel), Deborah Racicot(Gotham Bar & Grill), Michael Laiskonis (Le Bernardin), TerranceBrennan (Artisanal). Seated: Michael Gabriel (Sea Grill) and Katie LeeJoel (Cookbook Author)

Legendary chefPichet Ong takesfood lovers on ajourney into thel i t t l e - k n o w nworld of Asiandesserts in hisgroundbreakingb o o k T H ESWEET SPOT:Asian-InspiredD e s s e r t s .B e a u t i f u l l yp h o to g r a p h e da n d f u l l o fanecdotes, Ong

introduces readers to a new realm of culinary delight as hereveals the secrets of Asian desserts while making them accessibleto home cooks.

The recipes presented in THE SWEET SPOT show thatAsian desserts can tempt, excite and satisfy in ways traditionalAmerican desserts cannot. These spectacular culinary delightsfocus on making great flavor the top priority. Instead ofrelying on butter and sugar, the vibrant fruit and floral flavorsof Asia become the main ingredient. They will satisfy yoursweet tooth without sacrificing the clean sophistication thatis their hallmark.

Elizabeth Falkner hasbeen called a “rock starof the pastry world”because her cutting-edge creations havealways defied tradition.For g e t t i re d o l dtiramisu. Elizabethd e m o l i s h e s a n dtransforms the boringrestaurant staple intoTiramisushi—a cocoaroulade sponge cakew i t h m a r s a l a

mascarpone filling shaped in a sushi roll, with mocha-rum dippingsauce, fruit ribbons and biscotti chopsticks.

Elizabeth’s unique cuisine has made her flagship restaurantin San Francisco, Citizen Cake, one of the country’s most sough-after destinations for food that marries the flavor, technique, andmastery of a top chef with innovation and artistic flare. In herlong-awaited first cookbook, Demolition Desserts, she showcasesthe pastry side of her kitchen. From the cookies, brownies, andcupcakes that launched the restaurant in the late 1990s to theelaborate desserts that have made her one of the most dynamicculinary talents of her generation.

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Hit The Books!Gina’s devotion tofresh ingredients,simple yet elegants t y l e , f l a w l e s st e c h n i q u e , a n duniquely Ita l iansensibi l i ty makeDolce Italiano anecessity for anyonewho loves cookingand eating Italianfood—and for thosehome cooks who, likeGina, lie awake atn i g h t i n b e ddreaming of theperfect dessert.

A celebration of Italian desserts that also gives new meaningto the term “Italian desserts” itself, Dolce Italiano is, as MarioBatali says in his foreword, “pure inspiration.” Gina bringsthe beloved sweet tastes of Babbo to the home cook in thisground-breaking cookbook and reference tool.

“An inspiring and comprehensive love letter to regionalItalian deserts – and an absolute joy to read.”

— Anthony Bourdain, author of KitchenConfidential and host of “No Reservations”

BREAD IS BACK!We’ve emerged fromthe low-carb crazethanks to a nationalrediscovery of theimportance of wholegrains. It is no secretnow that wholegrains are healthy,reducing the risk ofheart disease, cancer,and diabetes. Publicinterest is so greatthat the number ofw h o l e g r a i np r o d u c t s h a sdoubled, and even

Wonder Bread has a whole grain loaf. But while we may agreethat whole grain breads are better for us, will people eat them?Yes, but only if they taste very, very good. Most whole grain breadstaste terrible – some too dense, some too sweet, some too muchlike cardboard. Peter Reinhart’s Whole Grain Breads has unlockedthe “secret” to great tasting whole grain bread, producing loavesthat are better than any you have ever had before – rich withflavor and satisfying texture.

Delicious whole grain breads are hard to find, but with PeterReinhart’s Whole Grain Breads, people can make healthy wholegrain bread (and crackers, pita bread, naan, and more) so goodthat their family and friends will not only eat it, but actuallyprefer it. It can be done!

Part 1: Recipe and Stencils


Pastillage

Sugar Arts

Publisher’s Note: Ewald Notter is considered a leading expert inmodern day confectionery arts and is also well know as a competitorand instructor. Today, Chef Ewald heads the Notter School of PastryArts in Orlando, Florida. (www.notterschool.com)

Sugar Recipe16 g leaf gelatin132 g water150 g corn starch850 g powdered sugar

Pastillage Recipe

EquipmentScaleBowlMarbleStencilsChef’s KnifeX-ACTOMicrowaveShifter

Showpiece

Pastillage, pronounced PAHS-tee-AHJ, is a highly versatile sugar-based dough, excellent for decoratingand creating showpiece work.

The formula below is best to mix by hand. If you use a machine, more air will be incorporated intothe pastillage which makes it difficult to cut out small, intricate pieces. It is much easier to work withdough that is tight, has little air and is very fresh. The longer it sits the tougher and more difficult itbecomes. This recipe is elastic and great for bending thin smooth pieces.

1. Scale out 16g of gold leaf gelatin using a digital scale.

2. Cut the gelatin with scissors into small pieces over a liquidmeasuring pitcher.

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3. Pour 132g of cold water over the leaf gelatin and allowto bloom for five minutes.

4. In a stainless steel bowl, scale out 150g of corn starchand 850g of powdered sugar.

5. Pour the cornstarch and powdered sugar into a fine metalsieve. Sift this mixture over a piece of parchment paperto remove any possible lumps.

6. Place the bloomed gelatin into the microwave to meltthe gelatin completely.

7. Create a well in the center of the powdered sugar andcorn starch mixture with a spoon and pour the meltedgelatin into the well.

8. Mix just to combine the ingredients.

3. 4.

6. 7.

9. 10.9. Pour the flaky mixture onto a clean marble surface. The

dough will be very sticky to start. Use a metal bench scraperto gather the ingredients together and form a dough.

10. Knead the dough into a ball. Cover the pastillage tightly withplastic to prevent the surface from drying. Work with smallamounts of dough as you go.

11. Use corn starch instead of powdered sugar to roll out pastillage. Corn starch will keep the surface smoother. Make a beggarspurse out of cloth and fill it with corn starch. This will allowyou to dust the surface more easily and effectively. Roll outsmall pieces to ensure the dough doesn’t dry out. Move thedough around while rolling so the pastillage doesn’t stick tothe rolling pin or table. After rolling out the pastillage, smoothout the surface with the palm of your hand.

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Sugar Arts

12. 13.

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12. Prepare stencil cut outs with sturdymaterials like card stock or heavy dutyplastic. Shapes can vary.

13. Place stencil cut outs onto thepastillage. Hold the stencil firmly downand begin cutting the shapes using anx-acto blade.

14. Carefully remove each cut out piece ofpastillage from the table.

15. Using a porous surface like Styrofoamwill allow the pastillage to dry fasterbecause air is trapped between thecontact surfaces. Wooden boards arealso very good for drying pastillagebecause they are also porous and allowthe humidity to escape.

16. If a texture is desired, rollout the pastillage on atextured surface like plexi-glass, wall paper, silicon matsor textured rolling pins.Here, I am using plexi-glass.

17. Free hand cutting is anoption for cutting pastillage. Use a sharp chef ’s knife tocut out shapes like trianglesor squares.

18. If you want to soften theedges of a cut out, you canuse a round cutter to cut outportions from the sides ofthis triangle.

19.

20.

21.19. Roll out a piece of pastillage into a log. Use a round

cake board to roll a smooth tube-like rod. It works bestif there is no cornstarch is on the table.

20. Shape the rods into swirls and curls onto Styrofoamand allow drying.

21. Use a round cutter as a guide to form round curls. Allowthe curls and rods to dry over night for best results.

Next issue Part II…more shapes and assembly!

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RegionalShowcase

THE FINEST CONFECTION SELECTION

Rich, ultra-premium, handmade and exquisitely painted chocolates from Norman LoveConfections begins with the world’s finest ingredients—Swiss Grand Cru chocolateand ganaches created with Thai coconuts, Sicilian pistachios or Tahitian vanilla. We arepleased to offer our chocolates, available in more than three dozen tantalizing flavors, torestaurants, hotels, gourmet markets and catering companies nationwide. For informationplease call, visit our Web site or e-mail [email protected].

11380 Lindbergh Boulevard, Fort Myers, FL 33913

2 3 9 . 5 6 1 . 7 2 1 5 • www.NormanLoveConfections.com

Pastry&Baking ad mech 12/14/07 5:30 PM Page 1

56.5g honey or agave nectar56.5g sugar or brown sugar56.5g unsalted butter, melted, orvegetable oil113g cinnamon sugar

1. Using a metal pastry scraper, chop thesoaker and the biga into 12 smallerpieces each (sprinkle some of the extraflour over the pre-doughs to keep thepieces from sticking back to eachother).

2. In a stand mixer, put the pre-doughpieces in the bowl along with the flourand the salt, yeast, honey, and butter.Mix on slow speed with the paddleattachment (preferable) or dough hookfor 1 minute to bring the ingredientstogether into a ball. Switch to the doughhook if need be and mix on medium-low speed, occasionally scraping downthe bowl, for 2 to 3 minutes, until thepre-doughs become cohesive andassimilated into each other.

3. Dust a work surface with flour, thenroll the dough in the flour to coat.Knead by hand for 3 to 4 minutes,incorporating only as much extra flouras needed, until the dough feels softand tacky, but not sticky. Form thedough into a ball and let it rest on thework surface for 5 minutes while youprepare a clean, lightly oiled bowl.

4. Resume kneading the dough for 1minute to strengthen the gluten andmake any final flour or wateradjustments. Form the dough into aball and place it in the prepared bowl,rolling it to coat it with oil. Coverloosely with plastic wrap and let riseat room temperature forapproximately 45 to 60 minutes.

5. When the dough has risen, dust thework surface with about 1 tablespoonof the extra flour and gently transferthe dough to the floured work surfacewith a plastic bowl scraper (try not torip or tear the dough). Roll the doughout to a 9-inch square approximately


Regional Showcase

Whole Wheat Cinnamon Buns

Baking Instructor

Johnson & Wales University801 West Trade StreetCharlotte, NC 28202www.peterreinhart.typepad.com

Peter Reinhart

Your Notes

Charlotte

Yield: 8 to 10 buns

Soaker227g whole wheat flour4g salt170g milk, buttermilk, yogurt, soy milk,or rice milk

1. Mix all of the soaker ingredientstogether in a bowl for about 1 minute,until all of the flour is hydrated andthe ingredients form a ball of dough.

2. Cover loosely with plastic wrap andleave at room temperature for 12 to24 hours.

Biga227g whole wheat flour1g instant yeast142g milk, buttermilk, yogurt, soy milk,or rice milk, at room temperature1 large egg, slightly beaten

1. Mix all of the biga ingredients togetherin a bowl to form a ball of dough.Using wet hands, knead the dough inthe bowl for 2 minutes to be sure allof the ingredients are evenlydistributed and the flour is fullyhydrated. Let the dough rest for 5minutes, then knead it again with wethands for 1 minute.

2. Transfer the dough to a clean bowl,cover tightly with plastic wrap, andrefrigerate for at least 8 hours and upto 3 days.

3. About 2 hours before mixing the finaldough, remove the biga from therefrigerator to take off the chill. It willhave risen slightly but need not haverisen significantly in order to use it inthe final dough.

Final Dough401g soaker417g biga56.5g whole wheat flour5g salt7g instant yeast

1/2 inch thick. Sprinkle the cinnamonsugar over the surface and roll it upinto a tight loaf. Slice the dough into1-inch-thick slices and lay them out,1 inch apart, on a sheet pan lined withparchment paper or a silicon mat.Mist the top of the buns with panspray, cover loosely with plastic wrap,and let rise at room temperature forapproximately 45 to 60 minutes, untilthe buns are nearly double in size.

6. Preheat the oven to 400°F (204°C).Place the pan on the middle shelf,lower the temperature to 350°F(177°C), and bake for 15 minutes.Rotate the pan 180 degrees andcontinue baking for another 10 to 15minutes. While the buns are baking,make the glaze.

7. Cool the buns for 5 minutes beforeglazing.

Fondant Glaze1. 1 cup of sifted confectioners’ sugar

into a bowl. Add 2 tablespoons ofmilk, 1 teaspoon of corn syrup(optional), and 1/2 teaspoon of eithervanilla, lemon, orange, or almondextract (all optional).

2. Whisk until smooth. Add more siftedsugar or milk as needed to make athick but drizzly fondant paste.

17

Whole Wheat Cinnamon BunsReprinted from Peter Reinhart’s Whole Grain Breads.

Published by Ten Speed Press, www.tenspeed.com.Photography by Ron Manville.

1. On a floured board, roll the tartdough into an 11-inch circle 1/8-inchthick. Transfer the dough to a 10-inchtart pan with fluted sides and aremovable bottom.

2. Press the dough into the bottom andsides of the pan, then trim it so it isflush with the top of the pan.

3. Chill the tart shell while you makethe filling.

4. Preheat the oven to 325°F and positiona rack in the center. To make the custard:Place the honey, sugar, and salt in amedium saucepan and stir to combine.Add the butter, place the saucepan overmedium-high heat, and bring themixture to a boil, stirring often.

5. Remove the saucepan from the heatand transfer the mixture to a largemixing bowl; allow it to cool for 20minutes. Whisk in the heavy cream,followed by the egg and egg yolk.

6. Distribute the pine nuts evenly overthe bottom of the tart shell and pourthe custard into the shell until itreaches the top of the crust. Bake for30 to 55 minutes, or until both thecrust and the filling have turned lightgolden brown and the custard is setbut still jiggly.

7. Allow the tart to cool completely ona rack before carefully removing thesides of the pan. Serve the tart whilestill slightly warm, or cool it and serveat room temperature.


Regional Showcase

Honey and Pine Nut Tart

Pastry Chef

Babbo110 Waverly PlaceNew York, NY 10011www.babbonyc.com

Gina DePalma

Your Notes

New York

Yield: One 10” tart (8 servings)

Sweet Tart Crust21/3 cups unbleached all-purpose flour1/3 cup granulated sugar1/2 tsp kosher salt1/2 tsp baking powderFreshly grated zest of 1 lemon or orange3/4 cup (11/2 sticks/6 ounces) unsaltedbutter,1 large egg1 large egg yolk1/2 tsp pure vanilla extract1/4 cup heavy creamA few drops ice water, if necessary

1. Place the flour, sugar, salt, bakingpowder, and citrus zest in the bowl ofa food processor and pulse several times.

2. Add all of the cold, cubed butter to thebowl and pulse to process the mixtureuntil it is sandy and there are no visiblelumps of butter.

3. In a small bowl, whisk together theegg, egg yolk, vanilla extract, andheavy cream.

4. Add the wet ingredients to the foodprocessor and pulse 3 or 4 times, oruntil the dough comes together. Ifnecessary, add some ice water, a fewdrops at a time, to make the doughcome together.

5. Remove the dough from the foodprocessor and work it with your handsto even out any dry and wet spots.Form the dough into a ball, flatten intoa disk, wrap in plastic, and chill untilfirm, 1 to 2 hours, before rolling it out.

AssemblySweet Tart Crust2/3 cup honey1/2 cup granulated sugar1 tsp kosher salt1 cup (2 sticks/8 ounces) unsalted butter1/2 cup heavy cream1 large egg1 large egg yolk11/4 cups pine nuts

19

Reprinted from Gina DePalma’sDOLCE ITALIANO: Desserts from the Babbo Kitchen

Published by W.W. Norton & Co.

Honey and Pine Nut Tart

to incorporate them evenly. The doughshould now have gained more bodyand appear firmer. Take the doughtemperature. It should be between75 and 80°F. Note the time.

6. Place the dough in the lightly oiledbowl, cover, and place the dough in awarm (80-85°F) place for primaryfermentation. The dough will now risefor 4 – 51/2 hours. During this time,give two folds to the dough after 2elapsed hours and again after 3 elapsedhours. After the 31/2 – 51/2 total hours,the dough should be at least 80%larger than its original volume. It cansometimes double in volume; thisdepends on the fermentative powerof the levain and the final doughtemperature. An additional fold maybe necessary for some dough that lackstrength. The baker must exercisejudgment.

7. Turn the dough onto a lightly flouredsurface and divide into 2 pieces ofapproximately equal size. Lightlyround each piece into a ball. Coverthe dough and allow it to rest for atleast 20 minutes or up to 35 minutes.

8. Shape the balls into tight batards about22 cm long and place them seam sideup on a floured couche or linen fortheir final proof. Be sure to cover theloaves to prevent crusting. Aftershaping, turn on a deck oven to 440°F.

9. Cover the loaves well and proof themfor approximately 2 hours at 80°F oruntil risen about 60 percent larger involume.

10. Carefully transfer the risen loaves toa peel or belt and place them seamdown. If using a peel, be sure to flourit lightly.

11. Score the bread using a sharp razorby making a single, straight cut fromend to end.

12. Steam the oven and load the loaves,making sure there is enough space sothat they do not touch after oven


Regional Showcase

Organic Cranberry Walnut Bread

Baker

Greenlife Grocery301 Manufacturer's RoadChattanooga, Tennesseewww.greenlifegrocery.com

Rob Alexander

Your Notes

Chattanooga

Levain.4 kg King Arthur Big O Flour at 68°F.4 kg water at 75°F.1 kg ripe refreshment levain (100%hydration; equal parts flour and water)

Dough.7 kg King Arthur Organic Big O Flour(14% protein) at 68°F.1 kg King Arthur Organic Type 65 Flour(12% protein) at 68°F.05 kg Lindley Mills Organic Whole SpeltFlour at 68°F.6 kg water at 65°F.3 kg ripe liquid levain at 68°F.02 kg sea salt.15kg organic walnuts at 68°F.15kg organic cranberries at 68°F

1. Ferment liquid levain for 12 hours at68°F; the levain should at least doublein volume within this time. If thelevain does not double in volume, add1 teaspoon of instant yeast to the finaldough to compensate for the poorlevain activity.

2. Prepare all ingredients. Lightly oil abowl to receive the mixed dough.

3. Mix final dough. In a spiral mixer, addthe water, flours, .3kg of the ripelevain, and salt to the mixer. Mix onslow speed for 5 minutes. The doughshould be very soft and attached tothe sides of the mixer. Scrape thebottom of the mixer to insure that nodough has stuck to the bottom of themixing bowl.

4. Mix on fast speed for 5 minutes. Thedough should detach from the sidesof the mixing bowl after 3 to 31/2

minutes of mixing and mix for anadditional 11/2 - 2 minutes whiledetached to reach proper (medium)development. The dough should besomewhat smooth, medium wet,and soft.

5. Immediately add the organic walnutsand cranberries to the mixed doughand mix for 45 seconds to 1 minute

spring has terminated; at least 3inches should suffice.

13. Bake the loaves for 35 minutes andvent the oven for an additional 5minutes to set the crust. Due to thefruit in the dough, the bread will takesubstantial color and be dark in someareas. The venting will prevent thecrumb from becoming gummy asthe bread is particularly dense.

14. The bread should be cooled for atleast 2 hours before slicing.

21

Organic Cranberry Walnut Bread

2 oz trimoline2 tsp cornstarch

1. Reduce passion fruit and pear juicesby 20%.

2. Dissolve trimoline into juice.

3. Slurry cornstarch and add to reduction.

4. Continue to simmer stirring constantlyuntil sauce thickens.

5. Chill over ice bath and refrigerate.

Chocolate Chip Ice Cream11/2 cups milk1 cup heavy cream5 egg yolks21/2 oz sugar8 oz 65% chocolate, chopped

1. Heat milk, sugar and heavy cream to95°F.

2. Temper in egg yolks.

3. Heat to 185°F for 2 minutes. Coolimmediately to 39°F.

4. Spin in ice cream machine followingmanufacturer’s instructions.

5. Fold in chopped chocolate pieces.Freeze.

Almond Tuile10 oz sugar1/4 oz apple pectin7 oz butter7 oz glucose7 oz water

1. Combine sugar and pectin.

2. In sauce pan heat butter, glucose andsugars to dissolve.

3. Store chilled in plastic container(overnight).

4. Spread thin layer on silicone mat;sprinkle with toasted almond slicesbefore baking.

5. As tuile cools, form into shape or brakeoff into shards.


Regional Showcase

Coconut Layer Cake

Executive Pastry Chef

Peninsula Hotel Chicago108 East Superior StreetChicago, Illinois 60611www.chicago.peninsula.com

Jimmy MacMillan

Your Notes

Chicago

Coconut Sponge41/2 oz coconut, desiccated31/2 oz almond slices3 oz all purpose flour8 oz confectioner’s sugar51/2 oz egg whites13/4 oz heavy cream1 egg white9 oz sugar

1. In mixer with paddle attachment,combine coconut, almond flour, flour,and confectioner sugar.

2. Slowly add first portion (51/2 oz) eggwhites until combined. Add heavycream slowly.

3. Prepare meringue by whisking together1 egg white and sugar. Dissolve sugaron top of water bath. Whip on mixerat high speed until medium stiff peaksform.

4. Fold together coconut base andmeringue. Spread on sheet pan linedwith silicone mat.

5. Bake at 325°F for 12-15 minutes oruntil cake pulls away from the sides ofpan. Set aside to cool.

Coconut Bavarian14 oz coconut puree7 oz confectioners sugar9 oz Greek yogurt1/2 oz gelatin sheets, bloomed21 oz heavy cream, medium stiff peaks

1. In small bowl, whisk together coconutpuree, confectioner sugar and yogurt.

2. Bloom gelatin sheets in water. Strainand melt. Slowly add to yogurtmixture.

3. Whip heavy cream to medium stiffpeaks. Fold together with yogurtmixture. Chill to set slightly.

Passion Fruit Sauce1 cup passion fruit juice1 cup pear juice

Assembly1. Smear plate with passion fruit sauce.

2. Place coconut layer cake shingles oncake, alternating with chocolatedecoration.

3. Place almond tuile shard on plate andtop with scoop of chocolate chip icecream.

4. Garnish plate with more tuile andcocoa nibs.

23

Coconut Layer Cake

5. Pour 1 cup of the green batter into thecake pan, tilting the pan to form aneven layer. Carefully set the cake panon the steamer rack, making sure thatthe pan sits as evenly as possible. Wrapa thin kitchen towel around the lid,cover the pot tightly, and steam untilthe cake layer is firm and set, about 4minutes.

6. Carefully pour 1 cup of the white cakebatter on top of the green batter. Pourthe batter in from the side so that it willspread into an even layer naturally.Steam, covered, until the white layer isset, about 10 minutes. Repeat with theremaining batter, alternating colors.

7. When the final layer is set, turn off theheat, uncover the pot, and let the cakecool in the casserole until it is coolenough to touch.

8. Remove the cake pan from thecasserole, run a knife around the edge,and cut the cake into little squares.Best served the same day, as it hardensover time.


Regional Showcase

Steamed Pandan Layer Cake

Chef/Owner

P*ONG150 west 10thNew york, NY 10011www.pichetong.comwww.p-ong.com

Pichet Ong

Your Notes

New York

Makes one 9” round cake (24 servings)

2 tsp canola oil15.8 oz (45g) chopped, thawed frozenpandan leaves20 oz (568g) unsweetened coconut milk117.8 oz (335g) sugar23.4 oz (79g) tapioca flour23.4 oz (76g)glutinous rice flour3 tbsp all purpose flour2 tsp cornstarch1/2 tsp saltA drop of pandan extract, optional

1. Prepare a steamer by filling a largeround casserole with water to a depthof 3 inches. The casserole should be atleast 11 inches in diameter and havea tightly fitting lid. Put a steamer rackor enough crumpled heavy-dutyaluminum foil to support the cake panon the bottom. The rack or foil shouldbe just above the waterline. Set overmedium heat and bring to a steadysimmer. Grease a 9” round cake panwith the oil and set aside.

2. Put the pandan leaves in a blender with2 oz of the coconut milk and 2.6 ozwater. Blend until the pandan leavesare finely chopped. Strain the mixturethrough a fine-mesh sieve lined withcheesecloth, pressing on the pandanleaves to extract as much liquid aspossible. Discard the leaves and set theliquid aside.

3. In a medium bowl, combine theremaining 18 oz coconut milk withthe sugar and stir until the sugardissolves; set aside.

4. Mix the three flours, the cornstarch,and the salt together in a large mixingbowl. Add the coconut milk mixtureand stir until well blended. Pour halfthe batter into another mixing bowl.Add the pandan liquid and theextract, if using, to one of the bowlsand mix well.

25

Reprinted from THE SWEET SPOT: Asian-Inspired Desserts(William Morrow Cookbooks)

Steamed Pandan Layer Cake

3. Transfer mixture to a double boilerand cook over just simmering water,stirring gently but constantly with arubber spatula or wooden spoon, untilthick, about 12 minutes.

4. Pour sauce through a fine sieve andstir in whiskey.

AssemblyServe pudding warm drizzled withwhiskey sauce.


Regional Showcase

Bread Pudding with Irish Whiskey Sauce

Executive Chef

Mr. B’s Bistro201 Royal StreetNew Orleans, LA 70130www.mrbsbistro.com

Michelle McRaney

Your Notes

New Orleans

Makes a 13”x 9” Baking Pan; Serves 12

Bread Pudding3/4 pound light, airy French bread, cutinto 11/2” thick slices1 cup dark raisins2 dozen large eggs11/2 quarts heavy cream21/2 cups sugar1 tbsp plus 1 tsp cinnamon1 tsp ground nutmeg1/2 cup (1/2 stick) unsalted butter,chopped

1. Preheat oven to 250°F.

2. Arrange half of the bread in a 13”x 9”baking pan and sprinkle with raisins.Arrange the remaining half of breadover top.

3. In a large bowl whisk together eggs,cream, 2 cups sugar, 1 tablespooncinnamon, and nutmeg until smooth.Pour half of custard over bread andgently press down bread.

4. Let sit until bread soaks up custard,about 15 minutes (depending onbread).

5. Pour remaining half of custard overbread and gently press down bread.

6. In a small bowl combine remaining 1/2cup sugar and teaspoon cinnamon andsprinkle over bread. Dot bread withbutter and bake 11/2 to 2 hours, or untilcustard is just set in the center.

Whiskey Sauce1 cup heavy cream1 cup whole milk1/2 cup sugar7 large egg yolks1/4 cup Irish whiskey

1. In a medium saucepan bring creamand milk to a boil.

2. In a medium bowl whisk togethersugar and yolks until combined welland gradually whisk in hot milkmixture.

27

Bread Pudding with Irish Whiskey Sauce


Chocolate Love

Publisher’s Note: In the world of gourmet chocolatecreation, few can match the career and quality of NormanLove. As the former executive pastry chef for The Ritz-CarltonCompany, Norman Love understands the importance ofquality and presentation and his global brand of artisanchocolates can be found in innumerable retailers, restaurantsand hotels around the world. For more information on ChefNorman and his gourmet chocolates, please visit his website(www.normanloveconfections.com) or his retail salon in FortMyers, Florida.

Ingredients:White Chocolate

Crimson Cocoa Butter

Tools:Chef Rubber Spatula

Offset Spatula

Marble Slab

1. 2.

Organization and moving quicklyyields dramatic results.

1. Lightly drizzle a small quantity of red-colored cocoa butteronto the surface of the pure white chocolate.

2. Gently swirl with rubber spatula.

31

4.

4.

3. Place marble slab in freezer for one hour.Pour small quantity onto frozen marble slab.

4. Quickly spread with offset spatula into a thinrectangular-shaped layer.

5. Use knife to cut into a rectangular band.

6. Remove excess chocolate and discard.

7. Prepare raspberry mousse timbale.

8. Quickly remove rectangular chocolate frommarble slab and quickly form into a cylinderaround mousse timbale.

9. Scrunch top.Garnish as desired.

3. 5.

6. 8.

9.

7.


Chocolate Love

CERTIFICATE OF EXCELLENCE

Felchlin Edelweiss Felchlin Edelweiss 36% awarded The Santé Gold Star

Top honors were given by SANTÉ, The Magazine for Restaurant Professionals, to Felchlin Switzerland for Edelweiss 36% White Chocolate for its supreme, clean, bold and distinctive creamy flavors.

Award

For more information visit www.felchlin.com or contactSwiss American Imports, LLC in Miami Phone (800) 444-0676

CERTIFICATE OF EXCELLENCE

Felchlin Edelweiss Felchlin Edelweiss 36% awarded The Santé Gold Star

Top honors were given by SANTÉ, The Magazine for Restaurant Professionals, to Felchlin Switzerland for Edelweiss 36% White Chocolate for its supreme, clean, bold and distinctive creamy flavors.

Award

For more information visit www.felchlin.com or contactSwiss American Imports, LLC in Miami Phone (800) 444-0676


International

By Campbell Ross WalkerPhotography by Dragon and Hungry Eyes

Eyes

After years of sacrifice and travel in search of pastryenlightenment, Chef Charles Zhao is back in Beijing and

looking forward to this summer’s Olympic games.

Worldof the

35

Marinated Seasonal Fruits with Vanilla Sabayon


International

The 2008 Summer Olympics will be China’s grandestpremiere yet on the world stage. Clearly, there’s fervent nationalpride among the Chinese that their country has arrived in theglobal sports and business arenas. No less important is thehospitality industry and in the run up to this summer’sOlympics, kitchens across China are getting ready for the floodof visitors. With the Beijing hotel market being ground zerofor most of the overseas influx, F&B management is puttingtremendous pressure on their staff to rise to the occasion andmeet the demands of their international guests.

Yet, Charles Zhao is handling his appointment as ExecutivePastry Chef at The Ritz-Carlton Beijing, Financial Street withaplomb. Finally, after several years in Shanghai and travelingthe world in search of pastry enlightenment, Charles hasreturned home to Beijing. And with the eyes of the world uponChina’s capital city, Charles is ready to put his skills front andcenter and dazzle his guests with distinct flavors and superiorcraftsmanship.

Charles’ self confidence is readily apparent and for goodreason: he has devoted his life to pastry. As a teenager, Charleswas a good student but he didn’t really know what he wantedto do. Then one day, he found himself in a neighbor’s kitchenplaying around with a piping bag filled with frosting.“I immediately appreciated the bag as an implement of thecreative process. The technique came easy for me and soon Ihad piped a nice looking dragon. Very satisfying. From there,it was off to vocational high school where I would study thebasics and lay my pastry foundation,” remembers Charles.

C hina has grown rapidly from a Third World countryto an economic power that many predict will rivalthe USA and Japan in coming years.

Stollen


International

Ritz-Carlton Pastry Team

Gianduja Chocolate LogChocolate Mousse withJasmine Mango Jelly

39

After vocational school, like millions of graduates before him,Charles hit the street trying to land his first job. We all canappreciate the anxiety associated with this process. However,think about what it is like in the China with hundreds of candidatesvying for each and any open position. Talk about competitive.But Charles Zhao is a competitive guy. He soon heard about aposting for a pastry cook at the China World Hotel and thatbecame his goal. A simple foot in the door was all he was afterand when it came time to interview and demonstrate his innateskill and training, the pastry chef offered him the job on the spot.

The 1990’s was a remarkable time in China highlighted byextraordinary growth, industrial entrepreneurship and abroadening appreciation of international cuisine. With the worldflocking to the likes of Beijing, Shanghai and Guangzhou, localhotels were pressurized to better serve their international guests. Considering the high percentage of European visitors at the time,modification of the dated pastry and dessert menu at many aChinese hotel became a priority.

“An extraordinary benefit of working at the China WorldHotel during that time was the exposure to highly skilled,international pastry consultants. The hotel was always bringingin trainers from France, Germany and Japan. I saw this as anopportunity and I worked with these chefs as much as I could.Considering the difficulty, at the time, in finding pastry magazinesand Western culinary books in China, the visiting Chefs were myonly exposure to international standards and styles,” Charlespoints out.

With basic English skills gained from intense middle schooltraining, Charles was often able to communicate directly withthe trainers. “For me, the chefs served a duel purpose: pastryinstructors and English tutors,” say Charles whose English todayis near fluent.

Pineapple Lasagna

Working hard and being extremely goal is exactly whoCharles Zhao is and what makes him successful. Soon afterarriving at the China World Hotel, Charles’ passion for pastryignited and within 3 years, he was the head pastry chef at theproperty. Even with this meteoric rise to the top, Charles wasnot satisfied with being the hotel’s top professional. He wantedto become China’s best pasty chef. And, in order to achievethis goal, Charles knew he required more international exposureand direct interaction with the world’s best practitioners. TheCoupe du Monde de la Pâtisserie would provide such a venue.

“I researched the event and the more I found out, the moreI wanted to compete. At first, finding teammates and sponsorswas difficult but persistence paid off and in 1997 I was able toCaptain China’s first team to the Coupe du Monde de laPâtisserie,” says Charles. “Many of the participating chefs andspectators thought we were from Japan or Korea but onceeveryone found out we were Team China, we received a lot ofencouragement and support. It was truly an inspiring occasion.”

All Charles remembers of the actual competition was thespeed at which the event flew by. Next thing he knew, timewas up and Team China was being called to present. Needlessto say, Team China did not win the 1997 competition, but allthe team members felt like champions for being the first teamto represent China on an international, pastry stage.

An added bonus to the whole experience was an extra dayin Paris and Charles and Team China wasted no time and seta hectic agenda. “That was a busy day. We were able to seeLadurée, Fauchon and Lenôtre. Amazing standards. I boughta lot of books and even though I don’t read French, the picturesare remarkable. I couldn’t wait to return to China and startcreating,” says Charles.


International

Back in Beijing, Charles worked harder than ever and eventook gold in a national competition for his plated dessert.Coincidentally, newly arrived pastry chef Eric Perez had encouragedseveral of his Shanghai Ritz Carlton staff to complete in the sameevent. Charles remembered Eric from the pervious year’s Coupedu Monde – Eric was part of Team USA – and reintroducedhimself. “From the beginning, Eric was a generous and openmentor. Always sharing his insight, technique and pastryexperience,” remembers Charles. The following month, Charlesused his own vacation time to visit and train with Eric in Shanghai.

“Charles Zhao possesses a unique combination of drive, skilland passion that has escalated him to the top of the Chinesepastry scene. What has been wonderful to witness is his growth,not only as a craftsman, but most importantly as a mentor androle model to younger Chinese pastry chefs,” remarks Eric Perez.

As is the case with other professions, chefs tend to changejobs frequently. Most often these new postings are driven byfinancial opportunity and upward mobility. Charles Zhao is abit different. When it came time for Charles to prepare for the2003 Coupe du Monde, he faced a daunting obstacle. Since EricPerez – now Team China manager and coach- and two otherteam members all lived in Shanghai, Charles was faced with abi-monthly commute to training sessions. Considering the cost,travel and lack of proper face time with his teammates, Charles,a true captain, put his team and pastry passion first and decidedto interview for an opening at the Four Seasons Shanghai.

“I met with the Director of Kitchens in the morning and bythe early afternoon they offered me the job,” says Charles.However, would Charles’ wife back in Beijing be so excited?

Spicy Chocolate Puddingwith Lavender Ice Cream

“Being a pastry chef herself, my wife completely understandsmy passion and commitment to the team. It was not an idealsituation, but again, it was an incredible learning experienceand I am grateful to her for being so understanding andcompassionate,” say Charles.

The next four years (2002-2006) would prove very rewardingand extremely hectic for Chef Charles: back and forth to Beijingas often as possible, numerous international competitions –taking 9th at the 2003 Coupe du Monde - along with theresponsibilities of running the pastry operations at the FoursSeasons Shanghai. For most chefs, such a lifestyle would havebeen too much, but Charles Zhao is tough. During that time,Charles grew his creative skills along with his organizationaland managerial abilities. And, in the eyes of many in thehospitality industry, Charles became a sought after pastryprofessional.

At 36 years of age, Charles is still a young man but as a dedicatedhusband and father, Chef Charles realized it was time to go home.When the The Ritz-Carlton Beijing, Financial Street positionbecame available, he knew it was where he needed to be.

“This is a dream come true. To be the executive pastry chefin one of Beijing’s top hotels with the Olympics fast approachingis exhilarating. The challenge is formidable but we are morethan ready and looking forward to the influx of internationalguests. We plan on accommodating their taste for pastry andhave already finalized a menu that includes sugar free, low fatand Mediterranean style desserts,” says Chef Charles proudly.“The best part is that I am back in Beijing with my wife and sonand we can all experience this great event together.”


International

Caraibe Chocolate Gateau

Dining room

Caraibe Chocolate GateauFlourless Biscuits800g sugar750g egg white500g egg yolk175g ground almond275g cocoa powder

1. Separately whip up the egg white with sugar and eggyolk.

2. Mix together with ground almond and cocoa powder.

3. Baked at 200°C.

Caraibe Chocolate Mousse250g sugar340g cream15g gelatin1pc vanilla bean1000g caraibe chocolate8pcs egg yolk40g sugar1670g whipped cream

1. Caramelize sugar until golden brown, pour the creamand vanilla bean into the sugar cook for 3 minutes atlow temperature and pour into chocolate mix well asganache.

2. Mix ganache, egg yolk mixture and whipping creamtogether.

AssemblyPut chocolate mousse with flourless biscuits layer by layerin the stainless steel form, freeze and then cut it into 3cmby 9cm.

World Chocolate Master!


Competition

After three days of fierce competition, Naomi Mizuno of Japan stoodalone as the 2007 champion of the World Chocolate Masters.

By S1GPhotos courtesy of WCM

Naomi Mizuno

45

Naomi Mizuno’s award winningchocolate showpiece ‘Tengu’


Competition

Twenty of the world’s greatest chocolate craftsmen took part

in the international final, which had the theme of “National

Myths and Legends”.

The road to victory was long, with the competitors first

having to win their national selection heats earlier in the year

to gain a place in the grand final.

Throughout the competition the contestants thoroughly

demonstrated the mastery of their art in front of a jury of

experts headed by Francisco Torreblanca, the master Spanish

chocolatier. The tension increased throughout the three days

of the competition as spectators packed the venue and watched,

awestruck, from the public galleries at the amazing technical

skills and dexterity of the chefs who created delicious works

of art.

“The World Chocolate Masters is a top level competition

for chocolate craftsmen from all over the world. The purpose

is to offer these people a forum to showcase their skills with

chocolate. Creativity with chocolate is key! In the entire

competition, original approaches in the recipes and aspects

of all creations were highly appreciated by the jury,” offered

Philippe Janvier, Vice President Sales & Marketing Gourmet

Division Barry Callebaut Europe.

The second World Chocolate Masters took place

at the first Salon du Chocolat Professionnel

held in Paris from October 20 – 22, 2007.

From left: Paul Halliwell, Paco Torreblanca, Pol Deschepper, Onno Bleeker, Camelo Sciampagna,Naomi Mizuno, Yvonnick Le Maux, Philippe Janvier, Patrick De Maeseneire, Beau Netzer and Eric Martinet

Le ResultsPrize

WorldChocolateMaster

2nd Place

3rd Place

ChocolatePastryAward

ChocolateShowpieceAward

PralinesAward

ChocolateDessertAward

Contestant

Naomi Mizuno

Country

Japan

Yvonnick LeMaux

France

CarmeloSciampagna

Italy

Naomi Mizuno Japan

Yvonnick LeMaux

France

CarmeloSciampagna

Italy

Naomi Mizuno Japan

47

Naomi Mizuno was declared the Winner of the WorldChocolate Masters 2007, with Yvonnick Le Maux (France) andCarmelo Sciampagna (Italy) taking second and third place.Winners shared a prize package of 100,000 Euros and ChefNaomi was presented a trophy specially created by leading DutchDesigner Rob Verhoeven. Furthermore, Naomi Mizuno receivedspecial awards for his chocolate pastry and for his creativechocolate showpiece. Yvonnick Le Maux was awarded for hispralines and Carmelo Sciampagna received an award for hisgastronomic chocolate dessert.

Without a doubt, the most interesting creation of the wholecompetition was Naomi’s chocolate showpiece entitled “Tengu”.In Japan, Tengu are a class of supernatural creatures found infolklore, theater, and literature. They are one of the best knownyokai (monster-spirits) and are sometimes worshipped as spiritsor gods. Although they take their name from a dog-like demon,the Tengu were originally thought to take the forms of birds ofprey, and they are traditionally depicted with both human andavian characteristics. The earliest Tengu were pictured with beaks,but this feature has often been humanized as an unnaturally longnose, which today is practically the Tengu's defining characteristicin the popular imagination.

As Naomi Mizuno raised his trophy and held his check, itwas readily apparent the mild mannered chef was the crowdfavorite and even his competitors were happy for him. Here isan interview with Chef Naomi shortly after he arrived back inJapan to a hero’s welcome:

P&B NA: First off, congratulations on being crowned WorldChocolate Master 2007. How does it feel?NM: Incredible. From the winning moment on the podium andonce again when I arrived back to my hometown, it is still hardto believe especially when I see all the happy faces of mysupporters, colleagues and friends.

P&B NA: Tell us about your World Chocolate Master journey.NM: The competitors were an amazing array of internationaltalent that forced me to be at my best. From the beginning, Ifollowed my plan. What helped a lot was the overallprofessionalism of the WCM organization that made thecompetition extremely comfortable and stress free. This allowedme to concentrate and really enjoy the whole experience.

Carmelo Sciampagna’s winning dessert

P&B NA: Were there any moments of incrediblepressure?NM: Yes! Especially when I spoke to my wife justbefore the start of the competition and shereminded me that I was representing Japan. Herlast words were “don’t lose”.

P&B NA: Tell us about your preparation for theevent.NM: During practice, I made the showpiece 10times. Each time, the showpiece got bigger andmore sophisticated. In the past, I’ve seen a tendencyfor larger, more attention grabbing showpiecesbut at the last moment, I followed the advice ofour jury representative Mr. Oyama and my goodfriend Kouichi Izumi who took 3rd place in the2005 WCM. They recommended that I focus onmaking the showpiece smaller and more delicate,concentrating on the beauty and minimizing thechance of a collapse.

For the pralines and dessert, I tried to scoreevenly by making high-quality finished forms. Ididn’t use Japanese specific ingredients but ratheringredients easily obtained anywhere in the worldto put forth a more international taste profile.

P&B NA: What has been the reaction to yoursuccess back home in Japan?NM: All my family, friends and professionalcolleagues are so happy for me. An added benefitis that my students suddenly changed theirattitudes and became more attentive to my lessons.

P&B NA: So where next? What are goals in 2008?NM: I am always learning and looking to playmy part in increasing the level of Japanesechocolatiers and increase the positioning ofchocolate in the world food market.


Competition

Yvonnick Le Maux’swinning pralines

Chef Morel’schocolate cake

Canadian RepresentativeChristophe Morel

Victory!

49

USA Representative Vincent Pilon’s chocolate cake


Chef in Focus

Captain Exactitude

David Ramirez is a stickler for consistency. His precise approachto pastry serves him well overseeing the sweets at the Rosen Shingle

Creek in Orlando and has also earned him the captaincyon Team USA heading to Lyon in 2009.

By David MartellPhotography by S1G

51

Chocolate Pecan Nougatine Cake

SNL. At the same age, David Ramirez worked 3 paper routes,baked relentlessly on the weekends with his mother and dreamtabout one day being a chef.

Growing up in Oceanside, New York — South Shore of LongIsland- David knew early on he was destined for the kitchen.Although initially open minded to all cuisine, David’s slightlycompulsive need for exactitude would steer him toward pastryand baking.

At the age of 15, David applied for his first restaurant job ata local trattoria. Starting off as the bus boy, he was soon promotedto prep cook and charged with soups and salad. After the managerscolded him for making the house salads too big, the executivechef stepped in and took David under his wing. But thismentorship and potential path to celebrity executive chefdomwas not meant to be as David’s mental predisposition rejectedwhat he perceived as the parameter-less, loosey-goosey world ofhot cooking. Dashes of this, pinches of that? Without across theboard regimentation, David Ramirez could not fathom how anyrestaurant would be able to serve the same dish two days in arow? This was very troubling to the impressionable chef-in-training who remembered fondly the degree consciousness,measuring, and weighting he experienced baking with his motheryears before. Suddenly, it all made sense. Light bulb flickered –“ah-ah moment” at hand — David immediately applied to hishigh school’s vocational baking program.

The Joseph M. Barry Career and Technical Education Centerserves all 56 Nassau County, Long Island school districts. Its


Chef in Focus

W hen I was 8 years old I remember loving Yankeebaseball, riding my bike and trying everySaturday night to stay awake through an entire

one-and two-year culinary arts courses are given in a 24 ovenkitchen classroom that is widely considered the most extensivehigh school level cooking/baking program on the East Coast.Under the auspices of the New York State Department ofEducation and their Board of Cooperative Educational Services(“BOCES”) these schools provide much needed focus to thosestudents yearning for practical education. David Ramirez wasone of those students and as soon as he enrolled, everythingbegan to fall into place.

Now excelling in school, enthusiastic about learning andsingularly focused on his chosen path, David craved the realwork experience he couldn’t get in the classroom. He heardof an opening at a local bakery a few towns over and aftermeeting with the owner, David was hired on for the weekend,morning shift.

With work starting at 4:00 AM every Saturday, this didn’tleave much time for David and traditional high school weekendsocialization. But, for him, it didn’t matter. He preferred thecompany of the old timers at the bakery and learning theintricacies of frying cannoli shells, boiling bagels and perfectingrainbow cookies.

After high school, David enrolled and graduated from theBaking and Pastry program at Johnson & Whales in Rhode Island.Aside from the hassles of written exams, he enjoyed theprofessional environment at culinary school. He also had theadvantage of knowing exactly what he wanted to do. This focusallowed David to take full advantage of the faculty and facilitiesand provided the resources necessary for him to map out anaction plan upon graduation. First order of business, land apastry cook job in a high end hotel.

Old Fashioned Chocolate Cake

Shingle Creek

Petit Pastry

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Pineapple Parfait

Considering everything David Ramirez had to offer (greatgrades, experience, positive disposition) the Lafayette Hotel inBoston was eager for him to start. There, for the first time, Davidwould experience high tea, a traditional culinary hierarchy, 3shifts and the competitiveness of a faced pace kitchen.

A series of hotel jobs followed, with David sticking to hisscript: learn, broaden, refine and grow. But not only as pastrypro, David was also keen to keep up and expand upon his bakingskills which he did by working second and third jobs in nearbybakeries. Volume production was his goal, knowing full well thatif he wanted to move up the culinary ladder, he needed to beable to produce large quantities.

Eventually, his travels brought him to Florida where theclimate and growing demand for well-rounded dessertprofessionals appeared tailor made for David Ramirez. Not tomention, the golf wasn’t bad either.

At 22 years old, David became the pastry chef at the StoufferHotel near Sea World in Orlando. As the youngest person in thekitchen, David initially found it difficult to command the fullauthority of his title. However, with the dexterity of a chef manyyears his senior and a personality that makes it extremely difficultto dislike him, soon enough, the pastry kitchen at the StoufferHotel was following the Ramirez playbook and turning out

showpieces, chocolate amenities, plated desserts and wonderfulbreads that won them accolades from management and quests.

The 1990’s were a time of personal turmoil and reflectionfor David Ramirez. He left Florida and traveled as a pastry chefconsultant throughout the Southeast. Through it all, he neverlost focus on his passion and continued to create new dessertsand chocolate masterpieces all the while searching for a highercreative forum.

After landing the executive pastry chef job at the Royal PacificResort at Universal Studios in 2002, David was encouraged toenter a regional pastry contest organized by the Florida RestaurantAssociation. There, he experienced the adrenaline rush associatedwith high level gastronomic competition. He didn’t win, but hewas hooked.

An added bonus to that event was the friendship Davidstruck up with fellow pastry chef and kindred spirit Jim Mullaneyfrom Sea Island, Georgia. Much like David, Jim was anaccomplished pastry chef at a world class resort in search of achallenge. They both realized their chemistry and creativemethodologies meshed well together and decided to team upfor the 2004 Bread and Pastry Team Championship in AtlanticCity. Though relatively new to competing, the duo took secondbehind Ciril Hitz. Not bad.

Chocolate Sabayon


Chef in Focus

Next up was the Amoretti 2005 National Pastry TeamChampionship where David and Jim joined forces with LaurentLhuillier. Along with the coaching of former world championLaurent Branlard, the trio struck Gold and won the right —along with $50,000 — to represent the United States at the 2006World Pastry Team Championships.

Back in Orlando, David was immersed in the rigors of hisday-to-day at the Royal Pacific Resort along with the demandingpractice schedule for the World Pastry Team Championships.Having remarried and with a growing family, this was hardly thetime to consider a new professional opportunity. But, unlikemost, David Ramirez is a great multi-tasker and when the RosenShingle Creek came calling he was willing to listen. ConsideringDavid lives less than 5 minutes down the road from the propertyand drove past the hotel everyday during construction, he wasfamiliar with its massive footprint and after his interviews, evenmore impressed with the team and the owner.

Harris Rosen’s story is legendary in Orlando hospitalitycircles. Arriving in Florida as a planning manager for Disney,Harris and The Mouse had a falling out when a senior executivetold him he would never become a “Disney person”. That wasenough for Harris who left and bought his first hotel in 1974.As his only staff, Harris had to do everything. Times were tough.It was the height of the 70’s oil crisis and travelers were hard tofind. Harris would even stand on the off ramp and try to flagdown guests but to no avail. Desperate times called for desperatemeasures so Harris set out hitch hiking to snowy New Englandwhere he knew there were plenty of motor coach operators.Asking for a moment of their time, Harris presented his story

and his hotel and allowed the operators to set their own roomrates. Many of the motor coach companies admired his gumptionand signed on. Soon, the oil crisis ended and vacationers -inbuses- started to revisit Orlando. The rest is history.

Today, Harris is COO and President of Rosen Hotels &Resorts, which operate seven properties in the Orlando destinationmarket. To say Mr. Rosen is “hands on” is an understatementand with the 1,500 room, Four-Diamond award winning RosenShingle Creek as his crowing achievement, he knew the property

Shot Glass Desserts


Chef in Focus

Key Lime Tart

needed the perfect pastry chef: one who could handle theresort’s huge volume as well as provide flair in the form ofspecial order birthday cakes and spectacular sugar andchocolate showpieces. Once Harris experienced David Ramirez(his work and personality) he knew he found his chef.

After placing third at the World Pastry TeamChampionships behind France and Japan, David Ramirezofficially joined the Rosen Shingle Creek and settled into allthe challenges of helming the pastry operation at Orlando’snewest and largest hotel. He was growing as a chef, artisanand a leader and this development did not go unnoticed.When it came time to interview pastry chefs for the Coupedu Monde Team USA 2009, David was at the top of the list.Not only did he ace the interview, David Ramirez was named2009 Team Captain.

“I was very happy when David was chosen to be TeamCaptain. There is so much to be said about him. He impressedeveryone immediately by his attitude and general disposition.But beneath his good-natured personality lies determinationand commitment to his profession. David’s focus and skillwill be crucial to the team’s success. He has the ability to leadthe team through the challenges of the upcoming year as theyprepare for the competition in January, 2009,” says En-MingHsu, Nevada based pastry chef, consultant and Captain onthe gold medal winning Coupe du Monde Team USA 2001.

In 2009, David will be joined by team members Roy Pellof The Phoenician Scottsdale, Remy Funfrock of TheBroadmoor Colorado Springs and long time friend andcollaborator Jim Mullaney. Pastry & Baking North Americasat down with David soon after the team was announced andwhat follows are the highlights of our interview:

P&B NA: Wow, not only did you make the Coupe du MondeTeam USA 2009, you were named Team Captain. How doesit feel?DR: Exciting. The highlight of my career and I am so proudto represent the United States in Lyon.

P&B NA: How do you like your chances in 2009?DR: Like anything else, as long as we put in the time, effortand map out a game plan, anything can happen on any givenday. We expect to be very competitive and our goal is to win.

Key Lime Brulee with GrahamCracker Breton Bottom


Chef in Focus

P&B NA: What do you like best about competing? Certainly notthe practice sessions!DR: Practice is taxing, often frustrating, but a necessary elementif you expect to do well. For me, I love the actual atmosphereof the competition. I had a chance to travel to Lyon for the 2007Coupe du Monde and it was an eye opening experience. Thelights, the pumping music, huge crowds and incredible intensity.I just had to be a part of it.

P&B NA: Still being relatively new at the Rosen Shingle Creek,how did management react when you told them you wereinterested in pursuing the Coupe du Monde?DR: Absolutely supportive. Rosen Hotels & Resorts is 100%behind me and Team USA. It’s a great feeling and I couldn’t bemore appreciative.

P&B NA: From what we’ve heard, it sounds like being a part ofthe Rosen Hotels & Resorts family is a good gig?DR: I’ve never worked for/with a better group of people. Itsounds corny, but the family atmosphere permeates every facetof working here. Put it this way, when the owner is willing topay the college tuition for all his employee’s children, then youknow you are working at a special place.

P&B NA: What are the challenges you face with such a largeproperty?DR: Working here keeps you on your toes. One week we willbe slammed by a Republican Presidential Debate and the nexthave to create showpieces for Shaq’s mom and her annual charityevent. I’ve learned to expect everything and anything but aslong as you have a team that is willing to work as hard as youdo, being prepared and keeping ahead is very manageable.

P&B NA: Speaking of your team, what do you look for whenhiring?DR: Talent is important, but not the only quality I look for.Personality and passion is right up there. I’ve been doing this

long enough to quickly ascertain whether an individual is justlooking for a job or if they truly want to learn and become partof group. Without a cohesive team, production on this largeis difficult. I’ve been very selective in bringing people in whoare driven and embrace an “all for one” attitude.

P&B NA: What was it about hot cooking that didn’t appeal toyou?DR: Something just didn’t click. I don’t want to sound hypercompulsive or critical but I guess I require a more defined

Shingle Creek Pastry Team (from left):Alejandra Rodriguez, Marcia Fundora, Sous Chef Ray Lawson,

David Ramirez, Gabriel Roca, Jill Nastasi, CandiceWells-Walker, Maritza Coriano-Lopez and Daniel Pastore

Petit Pastry Tray

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Chef in Focus

methodology. I wanted to know that the ciabatta I make todaywill be the same tomorrow and the next day. In pastry and baking,consistency is very achievable. I didn’t see that initially in savorycooking. I saw a lot more latitude that didn’t appeal to me.

P&B NA: Early on in your career, you moonlighted often to gain“volume” experience. Why?DR: For two reasons. Firstly, after culinary school, I signed onas a pastry cook with the goal of someday becoming a pastrychef. However, all through high school I was baker and didn’twant to lose those skills. Second, I realized that if I ever wantedto land a big time hotel job, I needed to understand large scaleproduction. By working in wholesale bakeries, you see thatevery night. It was the perfect environment for me.

P&B NA: Where do you see yourself in 10 years? Have you everthought about opening your own shop or wholesale business?DR: I’m a pastry chef who also loves to bake. I love spendingtime with my family and also enjoy contributing to continuededucation in the pastry field. I have no interest in becomingan accountant, negotiator, salesmen or pr agent – all necessaryelements in running your own business. Basically, I enjoy beingpart of a large team and interacting with the other departmentswith the common goal of making this property the best it canbe. In 10 years, I hope to be doing exactly what I am doingtoday; promoting the hotel and reaching new levels of pastry.

P&B NA: What advice do you have for those just starting out asa dessert professional or thinking about a culinary career?DR: Keep track of everyone from school and previous jobs.Collect and maintain a network of contacts. One of the greataspects of the culinary field is the camaraderie and lifetimefriends you’ll make. Today, with technology, keeping up witheveryone is easy and can certainly pay dividends when you arelooking for work, answers to questions or general feedback.

Key Lime TartYield: 12 large tarts

Almond Sweet Dough384g butter6g salt288g powdered sugar112g almond flour160g eggs752g all purpose flour

1. Cream butter sugar and salt.

2. Add flours and eggs. Scrape bowl and continue mixing.

3. Roll out dough to 1/16” thickness and place in appropriatetart mold and pre bake to light color.

4. Keep tarts for later use with key lime mixture.

Key Lime Filling5000g sweetened condensed milk1000g egg yolks1100g key lime juice (Nellie’s key lime juice)

1. Mix yolks and sweetened condensed milk with wire whip.

2. Add lime juice.

3. Pour into par baked tart shell.

4. Bake for 8 to 10 minutes at 350°F.

Chocolate Sabayon Mousse CrunchFlourless Chocolate CakeYield: 1 sheet pan

400g egg yolks100g sugar300g egg whites100g sugar180g butter180g chocolate 55%

1. Melt chocolate and butter, mix together.2. Whip egg yolks and sugar to ribbon stage.3. Whip egg whites and sugar to soft peaks.4. Fold chocolate mixture into whipped yolks.5. Fold egg whites into chocolate egg yolk mixture.6. Pour mixture into full sheet pan.7. Bake at 375°F for 12-14 minutes.

Feuilletine CrunchYield: 1 sheet pan

1175g praline paste (Pralinosa)470g milk chocolate 49%705g feuilletine

1. Melt nut paste. Melt chocolate.

2. Add melted chocolate and paste to the feuilletine.

3. Spread mixture onto silicone baking mat atop sheet pan.

4. Place baked flourless cake on top of praline feuilletine mixture.

Chocolate SabayonYield: one sheet pan

426g melted milk chocolate 49%29g gelatin341g Marsala wine277g sugar437g whole eggs1195g heavy cream

1. Bloom gelatin.

2. Melt chocolate.

3. Bring Marsala wine and sugar to a boil: make sure sugaris completely melted.

4. While whipping eggs, slowly pour boiling Marsalamixture down side of mixing bowl.

5. Fold in melted chocolate.

6. Melt gelatin and add to mixture. Cool mixture downin ice bath.

7. Whip heavy cream to soft peaks and fold into mixture.

8. Pour this mixture onto the flourless crunch sheet panalready set up.

Chocolate GlazeYield: 6 qts.

540g water108g gelatin (bloom in 450g cold water)1950g heavy cream2880g sugar960g cocoa powder

1. Combine water, sugar, and heavy cream and cookmixture 220ºF and remove from stove.

2. Add cocoa powder and gelatin to hot mixture and blendwith hand emulsion blender.

3. When mixture reaches 100ºF mix again with handemulsion blender.

4. Begin to glaze pre cut sabayon pieces on glazing rack.

5. Reserve the remaining glaze for later use.

Piping Sabayon25g gelatin40g cold water170g Marsala wine340g Sugar280g Egg yolks1500g Heavy cream

1. Bloom gelatin.

2. Bring Marsala wine and sugar to a boil.

3. Start whipping eggs and slowly pour boiling Marsalamixture down side of bowl.

4. Melt gelatin and add to Sabayon, cool mixture ice waterbath.

5. Whip heavy cream and fold into mixture.

6. Reserve mixture for later and pipe on top of glazedpieces.

Wild Sweets

Publisher’s Note: Dominique and Cindy Duby are thechefs and owners of DC DUBY Wild Sweets®, a criticallyacclaimed chocolate atelier and virtual boutique, which hasemerged as one of North America’s finest artisan chocolatiers.The couple also owns DC DUBY Hospitality Services Inc.,a Vancouver-based international firm offering culinary trainingand consulting services to hotels and catering companiesworldwide, as well as culinary creative and marketing servicessuch as product development, food styling, and photography.For more information, visit www.dcduby.com


4. 5. 6.

FLOATING FRUIT SOUP &MALTO CRUNCH

Malto Crunch 120 g Maltodextrin*30 g Icing sugar60 g Pistachio, roasted3 Egg Whites45 g Vanilla Oil

*This recipe is tested with MALTO Elements by DC DUBY,other maltodextrin may be substituted but results may differ.

In a food processor, combine the MALTO, icing sugar, pistachioand blend until the pistachios are finely ground. Transfermixture into a bowl, add remaining ingredients and mix untilwell combined with a spatula. Transfer mixture back into thefood processor and mix briefly until the mixture is smoothand homogenous. Spread the mixture on a silicon mat [forbest results use a template], and bake in a microwave oven atthe lowest heat setting for approximately 3 to 5 minutes oruntil crisp.

Various compounds called Gums have recently become

increasingly popular in modern cuisine. Gums are derived

from plants and are generally complex carbohydrates made

of different sugar molecules. They are used as thickeners,

emulsifiers and sometime as gelling agents. In the health

food industry, they are used as a fat substitute by providing

the "mouth feel" of fat, but without the calories.

Typically sauces and cream type preparations are thickened

with cornstarch or flour through a process called gelatinization

whereby the starch and liquid are heated to the boiling point

and cooked for a certain amount of time in order for the

starch granules to swell and thicken the liquid. The

disadvantage of this process is that typically larger amount

of thickener must be added, which affects the final taste of

the product. The liquid must also be boiled which increases

the loss of volatile aromas. Conversely, unlike starches minute

amounts of gums are required due to their very high viscosity

/ thickening properties resulting in a ‘clean’ preparation with

its original distinct flavours left unaltered by the flavour,

texture and mouth feel of added starch.

1.

3. 2.

XANTHAN – Part 1

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Floating Fruit ‘Soup’500 mL Apple or other clear fruit juice1.25 mL Xanthan*15 mL Honey or to tasteZest of 1 lemonLemon Verbena, 2-3 leavesAmaretto, to taste

*This recipe is tested with XAGUM Elements by DC DUBY,other xanthan may be substituted but results may differ.

Place the apple juice in a tall and narrow container. Addthe XAGUM and blend with an immersion blender untilall combined. Add the remaining ingredients and let themixture sit and infuse in the refrigerator for at least 2 hoursor until it becomes 'clear' again. Strain and discard thesolids. When ready to serve, pour some fruit 'soup' in avessel of your choice and add pieces of fresh fruits so thatthey remain in 'suspension'. Serve at once with a few piecesof Malto Crunch.

3.

2.

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Wild Sweets

AS Gelato tra.indd 1AS Gelato tra.indd 1 4-09-2007 10:53:054-09-2007 10:53:05

Subscribe online at www.PastryAP.com

A S I A P A C I F I C

From Tokyo to Sydney, Mumbai to Manila,Pastry & Baking Asia Pacific has you covered.

Asian Fusion

67

Before you begin:

1. Use thick baking paper (or triple theparchment paper) and cut to thecorrect shape around the inside ofthe cake pan and place it in. Makesure that the paper is twice as high asthe pan.

South Koreans are consuming greater quantities of cheese as foods likepizza, cheeseburgers and sandwiches become more popular among theyounger generation.

Over the past 5 years, imports of cheese have grown 68% in Koreaand this trend is expected to continue for the foreseeable future. Thus,local pastry chefs and bakers have to adapt to this growing demand andoffer a wider variety of cheese products. Publisher’s Note:

Successful entrepreneur, award winning author,instructor, international representative and currentPresident of the Korean Bakers Association, ChefKim Young Mo is an institution. As a trailblazingvisionary in the pastry and baking fusionmovement, Chef Kim marries his classicalEuropean training with his appreciation for Asianingredients and tastes. Photos and text courtesy ofDream Character, Inc.

Filling:63g (2 ounces) American cheese70g (1/4 cup) unsalted butter80ml heavy cream115ml milk50g (1.7 ounces) all-purpose flour1 tablespoon cornstarch5 egg yolks1/8 teaspoon vanilla extract5 egg whites95g (3.3 ounces) sugar

2. Sponge. Make the vanilla génoise oneday before and keep it airtight in thefreezer. Take it out of the freezerabout 1 hour before use. Then, slicethe génoise at 1/2” thick and place thesponge in a lined pan.

3. Preheat the oven to 335˚F/170˚C.

4. Mix and sift flour and cornstarch onceand set aside in a bowl.

5. Boil enough water to use for bakingat Step 7 (amount of water will varydepending on the size of the bakingpan used).

Sponge:one 7” (18cm) vanilla génoise

Topping:1/2 cup nappage


Steps:

1. Filling. Add cheese, unsalted butter, heavy cream, and milkin a pot and boil at high heat. Keep whisking to melt andmix all the ingredients together.

2. Turn the heat down to medium. Add sifted flour andcornstarch and keep whisking.

3. The picture demonstrates how the batter changes its thicknessas you cook over the heat. When the batter becomes thickand creamy, transfer it to a bowl.

4. Add half of the whisked egg yolks at a time and keep whisking.Add vanilla extract and mix in.

1. 2.

3b.

5a.

5b.

Asian Fusion

5. In a separate bowl, make a meringue using the eggwhites and sugar. This soufflé needs a stiff meringue.Add 1/4 of the meringue to the batter first and mix inusing a rubber spatula. Then, add the rest of themeringue half at a time and mix.

6. Place the prepared cake pan inside the large bakingpan. Pour the batter into the cake pan (fill to the topof the pan, not the top of the baking paper).

3a.

4.3c.

6.

69

7. Bake. Pour boiling water around the cake pan up to about1/2” high and put in the oven right away. Bake at335˚F/170˚C for 90 minutes.

8. After the initial baking time is finished, increase the oventemperature to 390˚F/200˚C and bake an additional 3-4minutes to get the light brown color on top of the soufflé. Check the oven a few times after you increase the oventemperature to see the color because the time may vary.Remove the cake pan from the water but leave

7. 8.the soufflé in the cake pan while cooling on a coolingrack. After it cools down completely, remove thesoufflé from the cake pan and place it on a plate.Brush the nappage over the top, and it is ready tobe served!

*Recipe from A Collection of Fine Baking (ISBN: 0976554305) by YoungMo Kim Winner of Gourmand Intl. Cookbook Award 2005 Best DessertBook in the World.

The only magazine in North America specifically published for dessert professionals.Each issue will provide:

Industry news, current events, competition results.

Recipes, demonstrations and the latest techniques.

Step by step instruction from our world-renownedpanel of Guest Contributors.

Truly regional coverage of hard working professionalswho share their experiences, stories and advice.

Complimentary online site for recipe archives andeducational videos.

Subscribe online atwww.PastryNA.com

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