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Pure to showcasenew designers

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Winning ways ...Page 7

News

Celebrities’shoe boost

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By Nicola Hyde

INDEPENDENT shoe shops facetougher buying decisions as brandsare holding less stock due to therecession, claims the Society of ShoeFitters new president.Jan Parry, of Parry Shoes, has beenan independent retailer since 2001and she stepped in as societypresident last month. She says oneof the toughest jobs of being anindependent in the current climate isbuying decisions.She said: “We put our orders in atthe beginning of the season andwhat we used to find was that if wehad a shoe that was an extremelygood seller, we could easily go backand order more. We are findingmore and more, that now the(wholesalers) just don’t have thestock left – because they aren’tcarrying as much stock.“It makes buying much more difficultand a lot riskier because you have toguess which are going to be thewinners before you even get them inthe shop. Before, you could buy afew and test the market and if thesmall range took off you could go

back for many more. That’s just notpossible any more.”Jan is a big advocate of theindependent retailer and says shebelieves they have a lot to offershoppers. She added: “We have a lotof plus points. Unlike the high streetwho have to just stick to one or twobrands, we can offer all sorts ofdifferent makes and styles which is agood job really because we are trying

to sell to lots of different people“It is not an easy time for theindependent shoe retailer. Customersseem to be getting more difficult andprobably have less to spend, pricesare increasing, suppliers are keepingless stock, and we retailers are tryingto keep everyone happy.”Jan says in her time ahead aspresident of the Society ofShoefitters, she would love to seethe government step in to do moreabout raising awareness of footcareand the importance of well fittingshoes.She added: “I think the public needsto be educated about feet and justhow important they are. The otherday I saw a girl, who wasn’t anyolder than five, wearing a pair ofthese rubber jelly type shoes thatwere two sizes too big for her. Shewas clawing her toes just to keepthem on. That is so much damagebeing done and it was clear herparents hadn’t really got a clue.”The Parrys have two shops – a largechildren’s business in Pembroke Dockand a shop in Narberth selling onlyadult shoes.

Jan Parry

A SHOP in Keswick was flooded with over 1,000customers after it ran a joint promotion with SmartWool.George Fisher’s made some socks that were free toanyone with a programme for the Keswick MountainFestival.Andy Airey, George Fisher director, said: “It was the talkof the town, word spread like wildfire among the localsand festival-goers alike and we had queues outside thedoor every morning as we opened – on Saturday wewent through over 200 pairs in one hour. It was one ofthose ideas that just worked.”Richard Codgbrook, for SmartWool, added: “We werecompletely overwhelmed by the amazing response to the

sock promotion and the fact that so many people actuallyqueued to get into George Fisher’s.”

Independentsfacing toughbuying decisions

Crowds hot-foot it to shop for free socks

A new design of shoe which has interchangeable heels is set to revolutionise the industry. The Bacolte shoe – which originatedin Italy – has been designed to be transformed from a 1.5 inch to 3.9 inch high shoe, simply by using the clip on heels.A spokesman said: “The upper is expertly designed and painstakingly hand-crafted in a way that can easily adapt to thevariety of heights. The sole was conceived and tested to coordinate mechanically with different kinds of heels. Bacolte is anew way of thinking about female shoes.”

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4 June/July 2011 News

Pure to showcase UK’semerging designersTHE British FootwearAssociation has teamed upwith Pure to offer ashowcase for the UK’s mostup and coming newdesigners.‘The Designer Collective’ willlaunch at the next show inAugust and will feature atalented line-up of emergingfootwear designers, hand-picked by a judging panel ofindustry leaders.Richard Kottler, chiefexecutive of the BFA, said:“Pure has got a provenrecord of dealing with youngand up and comingdesigners but because it’s aLondon show that meansit’s an expensive one andsome new companies justcan’t afford it.“We felt the best way ofhandling this was to comeup with an area at Purewhich gives them a smallstand to show their work.Retailers very rarely get to

see up and comingdesigners because of thecost of shows and becauseit would be impossible tofind the time to go see themall individually. “Unless those brands are atLondon Fashion Week thereis no forum for thedesigners to stand togetheras a group - so this was theidea, to get a small grouptogether so they can beseen by retailers in oneplace. “Shops always have to offersomething different but theydon’t have time to see everydesigner that comesknocking on their door.”The BFA and Pure haveshort-listed some designersand six will be chosen toappear in the specialshowcase area.Richard added: “We havedeliberately shortlistedthose designers that havegot more than just a bright

idea. Those who are morethan just up and coming,they have started to make itbut because it’s anexpensive business to showthey wouldn’t usually beable to afford it.”Also showing at the nextPure will be British fashiondesigner, Zandra Rhodeswith her exclusive launch ofher vintage inspiredjewellery. Resulting from acollaboration with jewellerydesigner, Adele Marie, thecollection incorporates thedesigner’s original textilework, with a focus on thedramatic and unique printsthat Zandra Rhodes isrenowned for. Showing for the first time,Scholl from Italy will beshowcasing their latestcollections along with othernewcomers Snipe fromGermany, Fidji from Portugaland Salvi from Spain.

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6 June/July 2011 News

Society bidsto swell itsnumbers

A ROYAL visit to one of the few remainingfootwear manufacturing bases in the UKwas held last month to promote UKproduction in footwear.

His Royal Highness The Earl of Wessexvisited New Balance’s Flimby factory inCumbria, where he was taken on a privatetour and introduced to the 200 people thatwork there.

The four longest-serving members of theworkforce – Tom Ross, Mary Graham,Margaret Thompson and Ann Ormond –who all started in 1982, the year thefactory began production, presented him

with a handcrafted pair of personalisedfactory-made shoes.

Jon Ram, New Balance’s managing directorsaid: “All of us at New Balance arejustifiably proud of His Royal Highness’visit to our factory here in Flimby.

“New Balance has been constant in itssteadfast commitment to the ideal ofdomestic production as we move towardsthe landmark of 30 years of manufacturingin Britain. This guiding principle continuesto stand as an important and sustainablecontribution, through exports across theworld, to the British economy.”

The Earl Of Wessex is presented with a specially made pair of New Balance trainers byone of the longest serving factory workers, Ann Ormond (left) and Tom Ross (centre).

Pictured frpm left, Andy Okolowicz (factory manager), Jon Ramm (managing director,EMEA Region) and Tony Cunningham (MP for Workington) meet the Royal visitor.

Royal visit promotes UKfootwear production

By Nicola Hyde

NEW retailers are being invited to join the Society ofShoefitters after declining numbers were recorded at thisyear’s annual general meeting.

The organisation says the AGM, which was held in March, wasa busy meeting – but not one that was greatly attended.

A society spokesman said: “Over the years fewer membershave attended the AGM and we receive far fewer ‘apologiesfor absence’. It’s a great shame as these are recorded forposterity and it is great to look back on names over the past50 years.

“I am assured it is not just the SSF that has witnessed thismalaise as it is a trend with smaller organisations, so I amhoping we can swell the numbers into the thousands over thenext few years and see a few more of you.”

The Society says everyone is welcome to join in on ordinarymeetings too - but it is aware many retailers may be put offattending as they worry they will be given extra work.

“You may be afraid to attend in case you are ‘drafted’ ontocouncil and ‘given a job’ but naturally the most importantthing is to ensure that you have a chance to make adifference and an opportunity to have your say. It is great tohave a chance to air your views and meet like-mindedpeople.”

The next Society of Shoefitters meeting will be on July 13 atthe Start-rite Showroom in central London near Oxford Circus.

CHRISTIAN Louboutin has filed aclaim in the New York Courtsagainst Yves Saint Laurent (YSL) forinfringement of a registered UStrade mark over his signature red-soled shoes.

In a claim for $1million in damagesand an injunction to prevent furtherproduction and sale of YSL's red-soled shoe, Louboutin has claimedthat YSL's use of the red sole is“likely to cause and is causing

confusion, mistake and deceptionamong the relevant purchasingpublic”.

A statement issued by legal firmHarbottle Lewis said: “In order tosucceed in the claim, Louboutin willhave to prove confusion amongstcustomers. This is a particularlyhigh water mark to attain given theexpense of the product in question,the sophistication of the intendedcustomer and the serious

consideration they will give toparting with so much money prior topurchase. Under US law, Louboutinmay be able to argue ‘initial interestconfusion’ i.e. that the consumerwas confused by YSL's use of thedistinctive red sole at the time ofinterest in the product, rather thana focus on confusion at the time ofpurchase. Although the legalposition on confusion in the US isdifferent to that in the UK, the case

will shed interesting light on the USapproach to confusion relating toproducts manufactured by directcompetitors of equally high reputein fashion circles. The case couldhave serious implications for theprotections afforded to owners oftrade marks in the US.”

Louboutin has also reportedly takenlegal action against the Frenchfootwear brand Carmen Steffens fortheir red-sole shoe collection.

Claim filed for $1million damages against YSL

Celebrities likeElton John,Sarah JessicaParker andJustinTimberlake havedonated theirshoes for acharity auctionto raise moneyfor theJapanese reliefeffort.The shoes willbe auctioned offthroughCharityBuzz.com on behalf ofthe charitySoles4Souls.

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News June/July 2011 7

Eleanor hascompetitionwin up hersleeve ...By Nicola Hyde

A FOOTWEAR designer who won acompetition for her innovativeshoes made out of a recycledleather jacket is preparing tolaunch herself to the industry.Eleanor Ferry, from De MontfortUniversity, won Moda’s Heritagecompetition which challengeddesigners to design around thetheme History in the Making lastseason.Eleanor’s shoe was created using avintage leather jacket and a varietyof fabrics and material resulting inan authentic looking piece ofmodern heritage. She said: “The working title wewere given for this project was'Heritage' – this inspired me tolook in to and research the yearssurrounding and during the secondworld war. I was fascinated by the'make do and mend' slogan, usedduring the propaganda at this time,and primarily the lifestyle of the

Eleanor Ferry

women left behind by the menleaving to go to war. “I wanted to create a shoe thatreflected the traditions of themake do and mend era, whilst alsocreating a shoe that wasmarketable and fit in to thecurrent high street trends. I usedan old leather jacket I bought froma vintage fair to create my finalshoe, by using this leather I feltthat it was remaining true to themake do and mend theme.”Eleanor says the combination ofold and new gives the shoe aunique feel to this shoe. Sheadded: “I have developed a realpassion for all aspects of footweardesign and I would love tocontinue working within thefootwear industry when Igraduate.”

Moda zones make it easier for buyersNEW zones will be launched forModa which will make it easier forbuyers to find the brands they arelooking for.A new select zone will feature topUK brands alongside internationalsignings like Rocawear founded byhip-hop megastar Jay Z. Thedirectional boutique zone will debutLacuzzo Design and its collection of

contemporary styles for men andwomen and Spanish brand BufferaHats will show new season designsof multi-functional headwear knownas the Buff. The Moda three-dayevent takes place on 14-16 August2011 at the NEC Birmingham andwill include free retail-orientedseminar programmes led by aselection of industry experts.

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8 June/July 2011

Quirkyshoe displaysstoptraffic

Page14&15

Treading thered carpet

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Features

Student success Page 16

TRADITIONALLY worn for hunting inthe snow, Mukluk boots are nothingnew to Canadian aboriginals whohave worn the boots for hundreds ofyears. But – until 2004 – Mukswere something the UK had neverheard of.Jaime Cooke, managing director ofMuks, is a native Canadian and haspictures of herself aged three,trotting around her family kitchen inher boots. Even she admits shenever imagined a household staplewould become a fashionphenomenon.In 2003, Jaime had been living in

London for four years, working asan editor on a spa magazine when –after suffering a twinge ofhomesickness – her mother senther a pair of mukluks.She said: “The moment I startedwearing them I had people runningup to me in the street, askingwhere I’d got them from. They gotso much attention, it was ridiculous.I remember thinking to myself, thisis crazy ... but there might be anidea there. Something really cool.”She ordered four pair of mukluksfrom Canada, convincing her friendto put them for sale in her Notting

Hill boutique to test the reaction.Jaime said: “Two weeks later myhusband called me and said KateMoss is in the papers wearingthose boots. I couldn’t believe it –you can’t pay a celebrity to get thatkind of press.”Armed with only a press photographof the supermodel in the elusiveboots, Jaime went straight on to amanufacturer in Canada tonegotiate exclusive distributionrights to the product. “These boots sold okay in Canadabut it just kind of ticked over. I wentover there and the manufacturerhad no idea who Kate Moss was –he gave me exclusive rights forthree years. “As soon as I’d got that in place Iwent to all the major boutiques withjust this picture of Kate wearing theboots – the response was insane.People were ordering it without evenseeing the product.“Next thing I know, they are beingworn by Beyonce, Kate Hudson, wewere making a custom pink pair forParis Hilton. In the first year, Itripled the business for mymanufacturer.”After the celebrity furore died down,Muks went back to basics –focussing its branding andmarketing on the comfort andfunctionality of the boot. But Muks’biggest problem was that it wasseasonal – chunky winter bootstotally eliminated selling in hotclimate countries like Australia andeven in the UK in summer months. Now, Muks has a new game planand – for the first time – is unveilinga Spring Summer collection oftraditional mocassins and fringesandles in pastel colours which willbe released to trade in July. Thecompany has also just appointed itsfirst ever UK sales agent.� Jaime has written a feature onthis which appears in the Summeredition of the British FootwearAssociation newsletter.

Love them or loathe them,celebrities have a lot toanswer for – but onebrand grateful for thepaparazzi’s obsessionwith the stars is footwear label Muks, whoclaim Kate Moss single-handedly launchedtheir brand. OOAL’s Nicola Hyde reports.

Kate puts the boot onand helpslaunch brand

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Features June/July 2011 9

A fascination with the bling of Indian weddings and a family of footwear royalty made ArunaSeth take the leap into launching her own brand three years ago. Nicola Hyde reports

ARUNA Seth grew up aroundfootwear design – her dad Guru Sethrode the fitness boom of the 1980swith his multi-million poundinternational footwear companyAscot, pioneering the pro-whitetrainer.Aruna used to sell shoes to herclassmates at school – working inthe Ascot head office during schoolholidays, where she helped witheverything from design to productionand marketing.She said: “It’s in my blood Isuppose, something I’ve always hadan interest in. Even my brother isinvolved in the footwear trade andhe has his own brand too.“I enjoyed working at Ascot but Iwanted to design something I couldwear. The problem in working for amen’s brand is I can’t feel aspassionate about it because I can’twear it. But when it’s your ownbrand, that you can wear, that’swhen you feel really part of it.”Aruna stormed onto the scene threeyears ago and now has over 40styles in her collection whichincludes Swarovski embellishedevening shoes, chic ballerina pumpsand elaborate après ski boots.

She admits to having a love of allthings bling – and said weddingshoes were the way forward for herafter witnessing so many ornatefamily weddings.She added: “My father is Indian andI think my design eye stems from alot of that – at an Indian weddingthere’s a love of all things sparkly,they love the wow factor. My shoesare definitely for the kind of girl thatwants to have a show stopper. Atthe end of the day, everybody wantsto feel like a princess on theirwedding day.”Aruna Seth is stocked in high-endindependents like Box Boutique,

Browns and there are plans nextyear to open its first stand-alonestore in London. They have appeared on hit seriesGossip Girl and actress Goldie Hawnwore Aruna’s most expensive£2,500 Cinderella shoes covered in3,000 Swarovski crystals to the NewYork premiere of Nine.Aruna added: “I think that our shoesare very celebrity oriented and theyare perfect for getting on the redcarpet. “That’s very important as a newbrand we need to push that celebrity line so we can get inmagazines.”

Aruna’s shoes tread the red carpet

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10 June/July 2011 Features

Out on a Limb cover storyEditor’scomment

CELEBRITY endorsements canmake or break a business – thekey is getting the right celebrity towear your brand. UK boot brand Muks had anastronomical rise to fame in2004 when supermodel KateMoss was ‘papped’ wearing apair of their MukLuk boots – andit sparked an international phe-nomenon that saw A-Listers likeKate Hudson and Paris Hiltonjumping on the bandwagon.But the instant buzz captured bythe brand came at a price – Muksmanaging director Jaime Cooksays she had ‘a nightmare’ on in2006 when an Italian companycopied the MukLuk boot, having itmanufactured in China instead ofCanada where the boot originat-ed. The biggest problem though, shesaid, was that the company usedMuks PR images, magazine cov-erage and celebrity endorsementand passed it off as its own. Hersales agents were going to retail-ers to sell the brand, only to dis-cover they had placed orders withanother company passing them-selves off as the originalMukluks.Another brand capitalising oncelebrity endorsement is AtalantaWeller. The shoe designer whohas celeb fans like Agness Deynand Rihanna has teamed up withGirls Aloud’s Nicola Roberts for aspectacularly blinged-up pair ofSwarovski sandals that feature inNicola’s new music video.Atalanta gave an interview toVogue last month, talking aboutthe collaboration and more will berevealed in coming months.Celebrity endorsements are posi-tive for retailers too – it’s a mucheasier sell convincing someoneto buy a pair of shoes worn byBeyonce after all!As for trends, macrame and cro-chet is hitting big for next sea-son. Gucci, Roberto Cavalli andDior spearheaded crochet ontheir Spring Summer designs andnow that trend has spread tofootwear – with macrame ankleboots making a foray into themarket.Brands like Fued London andBronx are taking advantage of1970's hippy styling with thewoven footwear in neutral colourpalettes, ticking the fashion trendbox for this season.

Nicola Hyde Editor

Challenging preconceptions and settinga new standard in fashion

SLIPPERS are often considered tobe the epitomy of a bad present,and Stasia is set to change thispreconception by turning this sim-ple, every day item into a fashionstatement.Established in June 2010, Stasiacelebrates its first anniversary oftrading this month. In an uncertainmarket, the brand has grown fromstrength to strength by bringing aquality and innovative product to themarket, excelling in customer serv-ice and offering favourable terms totrade customers.Design and quality are the essenceof Stasia and each style isdesigned to make a lifestyle state-ment.

The AW11 collection is themedaround romance and glamour.Combining minimalism and warmthin a chic and glamorous way, time-less classics are revisited to createcontemporary designs that are sen-sual and soft. Sleek simplicity ismixed with textured effects to fash-ion a harmonious collection.Following last year’s success ofStripedottir and Danish Cosy, Stasiawill introduce more styles with faux-fur this winter: Chocolate Truffle,Winter Bloom, Night Burst and theboot, Snowdrop. For brighter alter-natives, Dazzle and Evening Starletare bursting with colours andembellishments. To complement the range of slip-pers and to respond to populardemand, Stasia recently expandedits offering by introducing ladies’outdoor ballerinas and babybooties.The three ballet pumps – HeritageGlamour, Plum Chic and Midnight

Velvet – are in tune with this win-ter’s glamorous trend and darkcolourings, and will add warmth andstyle to any outfit.The pram shoes Mademoiselle andlittle booties Snuggles are present-ed in high quality gift boxes and areexpected to be best-sellers thisChristmas.Previous collections have beengreatly successful with independentboutiques and retailers who look toappeal to their customers with novelproducts. Slippers have been partic-ularly in demand as seasonal gifts,with outdoor footwear and babybooties being all-year-round pur-chases.Stasia will be exhibiting at TopDrawer Autumn, 11-13thSeptember, on stand R28.

For all enquiries, contact Anastasia on 0116 232 5706, email hello@stasia.com or visit www.stasia.com

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14 June/July 2011 Features

Retail review

Quirky shoedisplays stoptraffic ...AN independent shoe shop inFleet that is making waves with itswhacky window displays saysshoe shops should capitalise ontheir quirkiness and spend moretime on their windows.

Sally Hirzalla, manager of KristenaShoes, captured the attention ofher village with her Royal Wedding-themed window display – whichfeatured the royal weddingbalcony scene ... with hand-knitteddolls.

Shoes were displayed in a red,white, and blue theme and theknitted creations were eventuallyraffled off to customers to raisemoney for Marie Curie CancerCare.

Sally said: “We have got a knitterin the shop so we decided weshould do a special window. Wesent off for this knitting kit of theroyal wedding balcony scene andshe was say there knitting away inthe shop inbetween servingcustomers and fitting shoes. Itcreated a lot of interest becausewe were doing something a bitdifferent. It was brilliant – we gotlots of people coming in askingabout it, and it was really nice.”

The shop won the Fit Flops Shoe

Retailer Award for its windowdisplay – and the prize was ticketsto Paris.

Sally added: “We are gettingknown now locally for doing quirkythings with our window, and the FitFlops one was great.

“The original Fit Flops campaignwas for a lady with these reallylong legs in red pants and fit flops – we managed to track down the lower half of a dummyand we put these same red pantson it so it looked exactly like themodel with all the shoes aroundit.

“It stopped traffic that one – andaside from the wedding, wasprobably the best window we’dever done.”

The shop staff are now workinghard on the next window display,which will capitalise on the hand-sewn elements of the new JosefSiebel range with an Elves andThe Shoe Maker theme.

It is borrowing tools from a localshoe repair shop and is knittinglittle elves to be placed aroundthe shoes.

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Features June/July 2011 15

Continued from Page 14

Sally added: “People are bored ofseeing the same windows in theHigh Street – every where they goit looks the same. I knowindependent retailers are short ontime but doing a really goodwindow display is time well spent.

“The Fit Flop window was the firstone we put any real effort intoand literally one hour after it hadgone in we had people queuing upat the window. Without a shadowof a doubt it works for us – andanything we put in those windows

sells. It seems to capturepeople’s imagination – otherwisethey just walk past so you have todo something to make themstop.”

The shoe shop has been open for20 years and Sally took over twoyears ago after a successfulcareer as a PR executive to ahotel chain. The shop stocksbrands like Birkinstock, DrMarten, Ecco and Start Rite.

Sally is a member of the Societyof Shoefitters and appears in theSummer newsletter.

‘It seems to capturepeople’s imagination –

otherwise they just walk past so you

have to do somethingto make them stop’

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16 June/July 2011 Features

QUIRKY footwear brand IrregularChoice has launched a limitededition collection at its CarnabyStreet store after teaming up withCordwainers students from theLondon College Of Fashion.

Fashion blogger Lucy Nicholls wasinvited to the launch night lastweek to see the entries and meetthe winning students So-YeonSarah Ahn and Rosanna Gault.

The students were mentored bydesigner Danny Sullivan and werebriefed to create footwear with aplayful twist that maintains thatatypical style that is true to theBrighton-based brand’s ethos.

The winning shoes feature acombination of heart shapedheels, candy cane stripes, ditzyflorals as well as oversized bowsand feathers – and to celebratethe launch a kitsch tea party washeld.

Lucy said: “I was very pleased tohave been invited to the sweetlittle launch of the LCF andIrregular Choice collaboration. Mypersonal favourite design wasRosanna’s which she wasstomping the upstairs of theCarnaby Street floor in. I let herknow that her adorable heart-

heeledshoesworkedbecausethey werecute andcertainlyquirky yetstillwearablefor me.

“As well as thescience-defyingheart cut-out, I also adored the colourfulhouse design on the sole. So-YeonSarah designed a clever shoewhich could then be built up onwith further accessories.Packaging was also consideredwith special bag designs too.

“Both shoe styles went on sale on25th May and you can buy themonline for a fairly large price tagbut one that feels well deserved.

“The profits will also go towardsfuture student collaborationswhich I see as a fantastic schemefor the retailer as they are able tosource new talent and cause abuzz about a design, somethingthat really should be seen more

often. It pushes students out oftheir own personal comfort zones,focusing on the client demandsand introduces healthycompetition.

“It must be wonderfullyencouraging for the girls to seetheir hard work become a realitywhere the final product is not onlyadmired by a tutor but holdsrelevance in the business offashion. The friendly hostsexplained that the students hadbeen inspired by cultures acrossthe globe and architecture whichare also core style shapers of theIrregular Choice brand. Londonshould certainly continue keepingin touch with its creative studentroots. Footwear retailers shouldwatch out, students may just bethe injection of flair you may needfor your next collections.”

� What do you think? As afootwear retailer, do you seestudents offering you somethingdifferent? We’d love to hear yourthoughts. Email nl@whpl.net ortweet us onhttp://twitter.com/OOALmagazine

Fashion blogger Lucy Nicholls, from Snippets Of Shiny Thoughts (www.shinythoughts.net)reports exclusively for Out On A Limb as to why footwear retailers should keep their eyeon the up and comers.

Winning studentswear their heartson their heels ...

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Product showcase June/July 2011 17

product showcaseproduct showcase

Universal traveller

product showcase

CUSHE create travel inspiredfootwear that fuses versatility withlightweight supreme comfort tomeet the demands of today’s globetrotters.The Universal Traveller range is arugged, robust and hardwearingrange designed for après-outdoorsports, featuring styles in premiumwaterproof leathers and suede, forstylish and comfortable footwearthat’s perfect for active days. The range also features shockabsorbing footbeds with EVAcushioning, and ventilated meshlinings across the range, offeringthe best in comfort. A selection ofstyles in the range also featuremoulded Vibram soles – high-performance rubber soles targetedto the outdoor, fashion, repair andorthopaedic markets.The coming AW11 season will alsosee new styles added to the range,including the After Ride, a men’s

waterproof shearling boot inWolverine performance suede, andthe Urban Vessel, a stylish hikingboot with d-ring lace detail. The women’s range will also seenew boots in Cushe’s waterproofleather and suedes – including analternative to Wellington boots.

For more sales information e-mail: Cushe's UK Sales

Manager, Wayne Cupid at:wayne.cupid@wwwinc.com, call:

+44(0)7827 446603 or visit: www.cushe.com

incorporating Performance, comfy foot solutions and bridal

HUSH Puppies has launched TheBody Shoe to bridge the gapbetween athletic shoes andeveryday casuals.

The Body Shoe collection isengineered with a bevelled heel andtoe that increases walking efficiencyby encouraging an easier, smootherand more natural walking motion.

Multi-density footbeds with Ortholite

foam in the arch and Poron foam inthe heel and ball of the foot providecomplete support and enhancedcushioning.

An advanced climate control systemcomposed of Ortholite foamfootbeds features in every BodyShoe which wicks away moisture,reducing heat build up and keeping the foot cool, dry andcomfortable.

THE wedding season is upon us,with family and friends praying forfine weather for their special day.

The reception is booked, guestsinvited and outfits deliberated overand bought.

But where to get a stylish,comfortable and smart shoe thatlooks as good as it feels? Choosingthe right wedding shoe is a keydecision.

Equity are specialists in wide fitting,leather court shoes and have beenmaking ladies footwear for over 100years and know a thing or two aboutwhat women want when choosingwedding shoes.

With a trade price of just £27.45and a retail of £64.95, Equityshoes won’t greatly add to theexpense of a wedding outfit but willguarantee feet feel fine all day long.

Available in an exceptional selectionof designs, colours, heel heightsand fittings – there is a shoe forany occasion.

Don’t miss out on this fantasticprofit opportunity, exceed yourcustomer’s expectations and orderyour Equity court shoes now.

Contact Padders Sales on 01536534999 or your Area Manager to

place your order now.

Wedding belles

Body Shoe bridges the gap

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Product showcase June/July 2011 19

product showcase Kool for Kidsproduct showcaseAustralian kids brand Skeanie are movinginto Europe with the appointment of UnitedBrand Management as its exclusive distributor.Natasha Barber launched Skeanie afterbecoming frustrated with not being able tofind good quality, fashionable shoes – theyhave made waves in Australia andare endored by podiatryassociations.Natasha said: “I amdelighted that UnitedBrand Management hasjoined us. It certainly is a great step for-ward for the next stage of our company’sdevelopment. Welook forward to making our footmark inEurope.”

A NEW research study fromfootwear brand Stride Rite hasrevealed how shoe design affectschild development. The results show how the construc-tion of a shoe can affect gait, sta-bility and plantar loading throughoutdifferent stages of learning to walk. The study was conducted over a twoyear period in partnership with theTemple University School ofPodiatric Medicine and theCalifornia College of PodiatricMedicine.

Dr Paul Scherer, lead researcher,said: “The striking results of thisstudy shed light on the very impor-tant but under-researched topic ofchild foot development. When weapproached the research, the onlyavailable information on child footdevelopment was based on opin-ions nearly 50 years old.”Its focus was to understand chil-dren’s foot development milestonesin order to identify if shoe flexibilityshould vary for each developmentstage.

Study looks at child shoe design

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Product showcase June/July 2011 21

product showcase Bridal collectionproduct showcase

The 2012 collection from bridal footwear designer RachelSimpson features lower heels and a nod towards 1940s elegance.The brand is already making waves in the industry afterbeing bigged up by famous wedding blogger Kat Williams(Rock N Roll Bride) and the 2012 collection looks set tostorm the market.Inspired by the early 1940s, the collection features satin andleather, soft kid suede with pearlised and metallic leatherdetailing. The bridal collection is finished with Rose’s signa-ture floral insole.A spokesman said: “This year the emphasis is on lowerheels. In addition to new styles on the popular mid and lowround toes, a new ballerina at a lower price point is perfectas an add on purchase or bridesmaid option.”

LUXURY sheepskin boot brand Love From Australia havejust announced delivery of a new consignment of its sell-out ‘Just Married’ boot.The boot – originally designed as a limited edition – hasproven so popular that LFA has decided to include them inits collection for this year. The style is based on the brand’s long-running Cupiddesign, hand-made from velvet-soft sheepskin and tied atthe side with satin ribbons. A spokesman said: “The celebratory words Just andMarried are embroidered on the heels – a perfect gift forthe bride to slip on underneath the wedding dress after along night dancing or to shout to the world her happy newson the honeymoon journey.”

‘Just married’ boot added to collection

Luxury bridal brandBenjamin Adamshas launched its2012 collectionwith a strongfocus on vintagetrims andSwarovski crystalelements. Creative DirectorAlessandroPavan’s has developed a collection thatencapsulatesallure and glamourwith 24 stylesranging from peeptoes to jewel-encrustedplatforms.

FOOTWEAR student Joana Silva has been working on a bridal collection for Beyond Skin as part of her final project.

Joana spent a year working with the brandas a studio assistant and it was suggestedthat she might like to help develop thebrand’s bridal range.

She said: “I did extensive research on thebrand, the vegan and wedding market aswell as compiling inspirational research.

“This led me to design nine styles for thecollection and two of them were hand madeby myself.

“The aim of my final major project was to re-vitalise Beyond Skin’s bridal range andmake the brand the first point-of-call forvegan brides to be, those planning anethical wedding or those who simply like thestyles.”

Joana Silva is a student at London Collegeof Fashion completing a BA (Hons)Cordwainers Footwear: Product Design andDevelopment. She graduates in July.

Joana designs with vegan brides in mind ...

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22 June/July 2011 Product showcase

product showcaseproduct showcase product showcase

THE sock is one of the last items ofclothing to undergo a revolutionarychange in design.

NZ Sock Co., in consultation withexpert clinical advisors, has designed arange of socks using advanced technolo-gy. Incorporating a unique combinationof natural merino wool, renowned for itsexceptionally high quality fibre, superiorsoftness, strength and durability andSeacell, an innovative, cellulose andseaweed-based fibre with extensiveapplications for medical textiles and sit-uations where hygiene and cleanlinessare important.

Lifesocks deliver outstanding preventa-tive and protective features and aredesigned to reduce friction and pres-sure, effectively manage temperatureand moisture, inhibit bacterial growth,

offer a warm andnon-constrictivecomfort and adaptto the individualshape of the foot.They provide animportant protec-tive interfacebetween the shoeand the skin, whatwe call the forgot-ten interface. OurtrademarkedElastic SupportSystem (ESS)locks the sockonto the foot andthe lower leg with minimal compression,providing support particularly under theplantar arch region.

Step forward in sock design

A NEW online accessories andfootwear boutique which has afrench twist has opened its virtualdoors.

Femme-Enfant.com was founded byLouise Woodhead with a widespectrum of goods and price points.

Louise said: “I set out to create anindependent boutique that isinspired by seasonal trends butdares to differentiate.”

Born and raised in Scotland, Louisespent most of her summer holidaysin France as a child.

She studied French at university and

her adultlife hasbeendividedbetweenParis andLondon.

A formerfashionmodel,Louisefollowed a career inbusinessand has led marketing efforts forworld leading firms such as Lilly,L'Oreal and Goldman Sachs.

Virtual doors open on boutique

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Changes afootat trade show

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Bid to bagUK market

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Accessories

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THOUSANDS of buyersflocked to LondonJewellery Week this monthto see the hottest newdesigners launched to thetrade for the first time.The event – which featuredjewellery fashion shows,seminars and meet-the-maker days – showcasedLondon’s top emergingand established jewellerydesigners. This year was the first timethat LJW has been open totrade buyers – it is usuallya consumer show.A spokesman said: “It isno surprise that London isviewed around the worldas a major centre forjewellery design andmanufacturing as well as ashopping destinationwithout comparison. Therange of top-qualityjewellery designers andluxury brands available forthe connoisseur in Londonis stunning“This year LondonJewellery Week built on itssuccess as a consumerevent by opening up totrade buyers as well. Thefirst day of Treasure, theContemporary JewelleryShow at the heart ofLondon Jewellery Week,was an exclusive trade dayfor domestic andinternational retail buyersto view collections andmeet jewellers who theymay want to stock in thefuture. As LondonJewellery Week evolves,we want to provide evenmore opportunities for

jewellers to build theirprofile with retail buyersand increase their salesthough mutually beneficialrelationships.”Top British brands such asAnnoushka, DavidMarshall, Boodles andTheo Fennell and emergingdesigners Tomasz Donocik,Zeilia Horsely, JoannaDahdah, Alexander Davisand even international newto the British market suchas Bachet, Sharwish andMadhuri Parson featuredat the show.And venue Hatton Gardeneven hosted a street partyon the last day (June 11)with a record breakingfinale -- a Guinness WorldRecord jewellery-makingattempt featuring 40master craftspeople.

Jewellery Week opensto trade for first time

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24 June/July 2011 Accessories

Orgon has designed acredit card wallet inaluminium andstainless steel. TheRFID blocking CreditCard wallet comes in14 different styles and helps protect your identity from high techhackers. It is distributed by LondonBelle.

Hobo bid to bag the UK marketA HANDBAG brand that wasfounded on a dining room table inMaryland is making a foray into theUK market with a display at theChic Trade Show. Hobo was founded in 1991 by ToniRay in Annapolis, Maryland on herdining room table. Toni had beencreating accessories for years asthe co-founder of GeorgetownLeather Design in Washington,where – during the 60s and 70s –her bags were made in thebasement of the shop and selling tothe hip crowd.In 1991, she cashed in her life-savings, bought a beat-up van andconvinced her daughter and futureson-in-law, Koren and David, tohead to New York to sell the first‘Hobo’ collection. Over the years, Hobo’s handbaghave earned a loyal following – withWomens Wear Daily branding it as

one of America’s fun and funkyaccessories labels. Now run byKoren and David Brewer, the brandstill stays true to its original designphilosophies even still working withToni – who lives on the same streetas the couple and steps inoccasionally to help with the brand.Koren said: “The Hobo brand hascome a long way from handbagsdesigned on the dining room tableto a multi-million dollar accessorybusiness. “The true heritage spirit of craftingfashionable, smart accessories inquality materials remains the drivingphilosophy of the company today.

What builtHobo thenand whatsets usapart now,is ourpassionfor styleandpurposefuldesign.”

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Exhibitions offer fantastic opportunity

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Kids’ show cancelled due topoor response

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Business andtechnology

By Ian Tomlinson,executive chairman, Cybertill

I AM sure most footwear retailersare dusting down their comfy shoesin anticipation for show season –but exhibitions offer retailers afantastic opportunity to negotiatebetter deals with their keysuppliers.Retailers that can arm themselveswith sales, orders and stockstatistics to put themselves in aposition to negotiate. Those retailers with a web basedEPoS system (also known as acloud based EPoS system) canaccess all their reports from anydevice that can access the internet.So whether it is their iPhone, iPador laptop they can simply log on totheir EPoS system and pull up allthe relevant data they need for the

supplier they are with.I have spoken with several retailersthat have used web based EPoSsystems to their advantage tonegotiate better deals. One retailer

was at a trade show in Orlando,Florida and by borrowing thesuppliers’ laptop they accessedtheir web based EPoS system andwere able to negotiate an extra£1,500 discount for their store, asthey were showing the supplier theirlive figures.It is also critical to get the buyingright at the shows, ensuring youorder the right type of stock andquantities. Web-based EPoS canshow previous months, seasons,year’s sales can be accessed. AQuiksilver franchisee explained tome that their web based systemallowed them to get their buyingright at the tradeshows they atten-ded in France. They could see ifthey had could see what were thebest colours, sizes etc, so theycould break down what sizes theyneeded.

Ian Tomlinson

Negotiate better deals at trade shows

Kids’ eventcancelleddue to poorresponseBy Nicola Hyde

GERMAN trade show Bread and Butter has cancelled itsplans for a kids’ event due to lack of response.

The Youngstars Event has been planned for this July aftershow organisers said the market seemed to want a freshlook at kids’ products – but it revealed that only 70smaller brands and labels confirmed, with the biggerplayers failing to sign up.

Karl-Heinz Müller, managing director, of Bread and Butter,said: “Our offer was the establishment of anindependent, contemporary kidswear trade show platformwith Bread and Butter as the model.

“With such a small number of participants, anindependent and strong event can simply not be realised.So we could not accomplish our ambitious goals. For thisreason, we closed the book on kidswear.

“We believed to have heard very clearly that the kidswearindustry wants a change, because many protagonists arenot satisfied with the existing situation. Although theplanned double usage of the event grounds at the airportTempelhof enabled us to lower the stand rent more that30 % compared to the usual price, the stand rent wasstill too high for many. Some thought the date wasinconvenient, a great number of market participantswished for a “Youngstars” taking place parallel to Breadand Butter, preferably also at the Tempelhof airport inorder to participate in the vibe and the atmosphere.

“I would very much have liked to realise B&B Youngstars.We put a lot of our own hearts into this. I had theopportunity to meet a lot of interesting people from theKidswear industry who understand the lifestyle of today’skids in all its facets, who are committed to this topic withall their power, passion and a lot of dedication, and thatare of course successful. I would have very much liked towork with them.”

The brands who had signed up – along with more than3,000 registered retailers and buyers – have beennotified.

EUROPE’s largest luxury shoe retailer Kurt Geigerhas been acquired by The Jones Group for £215million.

Equity specialist Graphite Capital announced thatit sold its majority shareholding in Kurt Geigerthis month, after it backed the £95 millionmanagement buy-out of the brand in February2008.

A spokesman for Graphite said: “The companyhas grown rapidly to become one of the leadinginternational retailers and distributors of luxuryand premium ladies’ and men’s footwear andaccessories, selling its own brands and morethan 100 third-party brands from Gucci to UGG.

“Despite the challenging economic conditions inthe retail industry during Graphite’s ownership,turnover increased by over 70 per cent to £205million at April 2011.”

Since the management buy-out in 2008, KurtGeiger has opened 24 stand-alone stores in theUK, including a new flagship concept store inCovent Garden. It has also strengthenedpartnerships with leading UK department storegroups, including Harrods, Selfridges, House ofFraser, John Lewis and Liberty, and signed anexclusive UK distribution agreement with NineWest, one of The Jones Group’s own leadingbrands.

Overseas, the company has opened stores inDubai, Kuwait, Qatar and Bahrain and signedagreements with franchise partners in Russiaand Turkey, opening its first stores in Moscowand Istanbul in the past few months.

Markus Golser, a senior partner who managedthe transaction for Graphit said: “Kurt Geiger’strading record in the toughest of economicclimates has been particularly impressive.

“The company has performed extremely wellacross all distribution channels and is one ofvery few UK private equity-backed retailcompanies to have expanded successfully intointernational territories over the past three years.Kurt Geiger is now well positioned for furthergrowth as part of an international footwear andapparel group.”

Luxury shoeretailer soldfor £215m

The price ofa lady’s shoe habit ...

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28 June/July 2011 Business and technology

A new SCRIPT forSuccess in this bravenew world of retailingby Dean van Leeuwen,Tomorrow Today

Our research undertaken in theTomorrowToday laboratory hasidentified six new S.C.R.I.P.Ts forSuccess for retailers andmanagers.

Strategy at speed: Researchconsistently shows a hard linkbetween speed and businessresults. Fast companiesgrow their revenues onaverage 40 per cent higher thanslow companies, they alsoaverage 52 per cent moreprofits.

Customers: Customers havechanged. Retailers need todevelop customer experiencesand value propositionsthat appeal to eachgeneration and focus on thewealthy.

Results: We are moving fromshareholder capitalism tocustomer capitalism.Businesses that offer the best

returns for their community andtheir shareholders will be mostsuccessful.

Innovation: Leaders in the newworld need to nurture andencourage a culture whereemployees feel safe to think andact differently. Tony Hsieh quitOracle and in 1999 investedeverything he had (and nearlylost it all) to create Zappos,the online shoe retailer.Ten years later he soldZappos to Amazon for $1.2billion.

Partnerships: Going it alone isno longer an option. Futuresuccess will depend on theability to manage win-wincollaborative relationships withcustomers, suppliers and evencompetitors.

Story-Telling: Every greatbusiness has an exciting storyto tell. Your customers andemployees want stories thatinspire them.

FOOTWEAR brand GeorginaGoodman will cease to exist in itscurrent guise after a traumaticmonth which saw it enter admini-stration – and sold a day later.Business recovery specialistBegbies Traynor (Central) LLPcompleted a sale of the businessand assets of Georgina GoodmanLimited – the luxury shoe retailerbased in the heart of London –which included a retail outlet at OldBond Street, on June 3.

Spokesman Kirstie Provan said:“Georgina Goodman Limited enteredinto administration on June 2 andthe following day we completed a sale of the name, IP and goodwillof the business to Intercede 2387Ltd. Unfortunately it has not beenpossible to continue trading thebusiness in its current form and weare working alongside the newowners to keep the Bond Streetstore open until late June tomaximise recoveries.”

Brand sold day after entering administration

The price of a shoe habitNEW research has revealed theaverage British woman owns nearly£400 worth of shoes that theynever – or rarely – wear.

The study, from Co-operativeInsurance, reveals that whilewomen in the UK own an averagetwenty pairs of shoes, eleven ofthose pairs will remain hardly worn.Most will continue to fuel their shoehabit, buying eight new pairs a year.

Lee Mooney, head of homeinsurance at The Co-operative, saidthe company did the research toencourage women to add their shoecollections to their home insurance.

He added: “It’s staggering to thinkabout how much the averagewoman’s shoe collection could beworth. The research shows just howmuch most women will spend ontheir footwear every year, and notonly that, but how much many will

spend on shoes they don’t actuallywear. Whereas a few decades agoshoes may have been consideredan indulgent purchase, it’s now thenorm to spend a considerable amo-unt of money on them every year.It's easy to forget the value ofitems.”

According to the survey, a pair ofshoes will cost the average Britishwoman £36, meaning they clock upan annual average shoe-spend of£288. And ten per cent of the3,000 women surveyed will spend at least £600 a year onshoes.

The research also shows that mostwomen will wear a pair of shoes forthree years before binning them,although more than a fifth can’tbear to part with their footwear, with21 per cent admitting that theynever throw old shoes away.

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Business and technology June/July 2011 29

WHICH trends can be identified in orders forSpring/Summer 2012? Which innovations willassert themselves on the market and what newdistribution channels can be opened up?Relevant answers to these questions will begiven to visitors by GDS as an international sec-toral platform at the Düsseldorf ExhibitionCentre from September 7-9 2011. 840 exhibitors from around 37 countries areexpected to visit the metropolis on the Rhineover the three days of the trade fair.Systematically grouped into eleven differentlifestyle worlds, they will present their shoe, bagand accessory lines for Spring/Summer 2012to the trade audience. Ranging from progres-sive, trendsetting premium labels to fast-turningsports and denimwear, from design newcomersto broadly accepted brands not forgetting latestkids’ fashion: GDS offers its visitors the com-plete range of footwear fashions – at one placeand on one date. This year, in cooperation with the BritishFootwear Association, there will be a designer’sarea including: Northern Cobbler, One TrueSaxon, Ted Baker Footwear, Po-Zu, LaidbackLondon, Esska Design, Kat Maconie, MichaelLewis London, Cheaney Shoes.There will be a programme of side events: com-pact, concentrated, competent. There is more to the footwear business thanjust the right choice of exhibitors and presenta-tion of latest trends. With its accompanying

events the trade fair brings special value addedto visitors. Fashion shows, trend lectures, semi-nars and trend installations introduce you to thekey trends while providing perfect preparationfor your order talks. The side events inDüsseldorf also include numerous technicalforums with current topics for industry insiders,events with a “celebrity” and entertainment fac-tor as well as press presentations. GDS Director Kirstin Deutelmoser said: “GDShas long become a pioneering information andtrend platform for the shoe industry proving itsworth season after season.”

GLOBAL SHOES: Must-go event for producersand dealers with an interest in volume businessBoth in terms of time and location GLOBALSHOES will be held concurrently with GDS; the“sister event” will take place in Halls 8a and 8bof the Düsseldorf Exhibition Centre. Thanks toits wide and varied shoe and leather goodsranges this trade fair for OEMs (OriginalEquipment Manufacturers) and volume suppliersgenuinely reflects the entire spectrum of theinternational volume market. To the tune of 380exhibitors from 15 countries will present theirproducts and services to internationalimporters, wholesalers and footwear producers.Such strong-selling suppliers as Mad Mad, JCConcept, New York Group and Y. Yessi havealready confirmed their participation in theautumn event.

Trade fair takes great strides

in fashion and business

‘GDS has longbecome a pioneering information andtrend platformfor the shoeindustry provingits worth seasonafter season’

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RETAIL SOLUTIONS

RETAIL SOLUTIONS

TRAINING

SalesTony Barry – Sales & Marketing Director(tb@whpl.net)Beverley Green – Sales Manager(bg@whpl.net)

Advertising ContactsTel: 01226 734456 Fax: 01226 734477

EditorialAndrew Harrod – Group EditorJudith Halkerston – Group Deputy EditorNicola Hyde – Editor

Christina Eccles – ReporterDominic Musgrave – Reporter

Editorial ContactsTel: 01226 734694Email: nl@whpl.net

Design & ProductionStewart Holt – Studio Manager(sth@whpl.net)

Circulation01226 734695 (24 hour hotline)Email: circulation@wharncliffepublishing.co.uk

Contacts

Coming up next time in Out on a Limb� In the next issue of OOAL we will be looking at the inventive ways accessories designers are using

materials like wood, paper and even old tyres to create wearable items.

� We will be taking a look at the new Designer Collective launched by the British Footwear Association to profile the UK's most up and coming designers – and reporting back on who are the ones to watch.

� We will also be taking you on a photographic tour of Van Dal's Norwich factory, as they celebrate 75 years of making shoes.

� And it’ll be show time with a Moda Preview including Kids at Moda.

A special eco feature will look at all things environmentally-friendly so if you’re interested in featuring yourbusiness contact sales manager Beverley Green on 01226 734456

diary ddaatteessChic - the International FashionAccessories and Travel Goods Fair(http://www.chicuk.com)July 3 - 5, 2011

The Bread and Butter Supershow(www.breadandbutter.com) 6-8 July 2011,

The Outdoor Show, Germany (www.outdoor-show.com)14 to 17 July 2011

Home & Gift, Harrogate 17-20 July 2011(www.homeandgift.co.uk)

PureOlympia and Earls Court, London, 7 - 9 August 2011(www.purelondon.com)

Stitch MenswearEarls Court Exhibition Centre, 7 - 9 August 2011(www.stitchmenswear.com)

Moda FootwearNEC, Birmingham, 14 - 16 August 2011 (www.moda-uk.co.uk)

GDSMesse Dusseldorf, Germany, 7 - 9 September 2011(www.gds-online.com)

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