Project ref: 2007CB16IPO006-2011-2-94

The project is co-funded by EU through the Bulgaria-Serbia IPA cross-border programme

NEW PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT

INSPIRED BY CULTURAL HERITAGE OF

SERBIAN AND BULGARIAN PEOPLE

This publication has been produced with the support of the European Union,

through the cross-border program CCI № 2007CB16IPO006. The contents of

this publication is the exclusively responsibility of the "Faculty of

Technology," and in no way should be seen as an expression of opinion of

the European Union or of the governing body of the program.

Bulgaria - Serbia

IPA Cross-border Programme

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1. MOTIVE

Very strong competition in the fashion market requires great creativity and

innovation in manufacturing. One of the sources of authentic competitive

advantage, that companies can achieve in the cross-border area between Serbia and

Bulgaria, is the cultural-historical heritage and multi-ethnic community. Through

the researching process of the culture, customs and traditions of the people living in

the cross-border areas, a significant knowledge of the authentic elements, that could

be used in shaping contemporary fashion products, can be found. On the basis of

these elements, the creations could be made, that by an adequate marketing support

and the promotional activities, could be offered in the market. This can create a

number of new products that would be of interest to its specificity and which will

find a place in the domestic and other markets .

The cross-border area of Serbia and Bulgaria has a rich cultural tradition

and valuable heritage. Therefore, the cultural heritage can be seen as a resource, that

can be placed on the fashion products market and thus preserve the heritage that

will bring the profit. In this way, the development of small and medium-sized

enterprises (SMEs) can be affirmed. The SMEs , through an innovative work in the

development of fashion products could help to efficiently solve the economic

problems of individual communities.

The holders of success are the industry modernization by developing new

products with a higher share of value added, marketing of its own products, its own

brands as well as developing its own sales network. Adopting the products with its

own brand, as an indicator of their own culture, the reconstruction of the fashion

and clothing industry starts, as well as its structural change in the cross-border area

between Serbia and Bulgaria. In this case, one can even think to increase the

competitiveness and export orientation based on one's own creativity, design and

innovation that are incorporated into a new fashion product. Therefore, it is

necessary to accomplish the incorporation of traditional motifs and elements of the

cultural heritage of population living in the cross-border areas, into the new fashion

products. The aim of this idea is to introduce the innovations in fashion and textile

industry, as well as encouraging its dynamic economic growth. In this way, an

appropriate development of small and medium-sized enterprises in the cross-border

area can be achieved, as well as the professional training and employment, that will

reduce the negative trends in the production and it will improve the competitiveness

of the fashion industry in the cross-border area.

A very important thing in all this is definitely the exchange of knowledge

and experience that should be primarily focused on the education of young people

in the design and invention of original fashion products that are acceptable for

production. So these products must have an original and distinctive design. All this

can be achievable only in the mutual cooperation of the economy and education i.e.

science. This means that the best results can only be achieved by the

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establishment of the development research centers for the fashion products. Pictures

1-3 shows etno motives of Serbian and Bulgarian people, and also contemporary

models inspired by ethno motives.

Figure 1. Ethno motives of Serbs

Figure 2. Ethno motives of Bulgarian

Figure 3. Contemporary models inspired by ethno motives

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2. SURROUNDINGS

The idea realization of the new products developing, inspired by the cultural

heritage of the Serbian and Bulgarian peoples, is being realized within the European

textile and clothing industry. Therefore, it is necessary to take into account all the

changes that are taking place in this industry. In the last 20 years in Europe, the

textile and clothing industry has undergone a major restructuring, which is primarily

reflected in the reduction of production capacity in the EU and the relocation of

production to the countries with cheaper labor. Redesign of business models for all

manufacturers is typical. Despite the enormous problems, the textile and clothing

industry still remains a pillar of the production sector with about 180 billion euros

turnover and with about 1.8 million employed workers. This industry is still a

powerful economic multiplier with respect to: logistics, media and advertising,

creativity, commerce and the like. The textile and clothing industry is seen as an

engine for innovation in various fields such as: new materials, creative design,

organization of international trade centers, et cetera.

In this sector, Europe still remains competitive on the international level as the

import and export generally grow. The largest regions, where the export is being

realized, are: Switzerland, Russia, USA, Turkey and China. The largest regions,

where the import is being realized, are: China, Turkey, Bangladesh, India and

Pakistan.

For the textile and garment industry in Europe can not be said to be a homogeneous

sector. This industry is not limited to the EU27, but includes many of the

neighboring areas that play a significant role in building competitiveness of the

sector. This sector is consisted of different parts that work together internally and

compete to become competitive on a global level. If this sector is seen as a system,

then the sector differences are mainly the result of different business models that

have been adopted within this sector. The value chain of this sector is consisted of

three components:

1. the first is related to the design and creativity of the product development,

2. the second, to the production and

3. the third, to the marketing and sales.

There is no doubt that in the textiles and clothing industry in the EU, the production

component is in a constant decline. However, this fact does not mean that the

enterprises system is weakened by the production decline. The other two

components of the enterprises are on a constant rise. This is corroborated by the fact

that many EU brands are still global leaders in the market.

If the European textile and clothing industry is observed as a system, then it can be

said that there are five areas with distinctly different business models and two

special cases. These areas are:

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1. Northern Europe: Germany, Netherlands, Belgium, Denmark, United Kingdom,

Ireland, Austria and the Scandinavian countries;

2. Mediterranean Europe: Italy, Spain, Portugal, Greece and Cyprus;

3. New member states: Poland, Hungary, Czech Republic, Slovakia, Slovenia, the

Baltic countries, Romania and Bulgaria;

4. Western Balkans and Southeast Europe: Croatia, Serbia, Macedonia, Bosnia

and Herzegovina, Montenegro, Albania, Ukraine and Moldova.

5. Mediterranean neighboring countries : Tunisia, Morocco, Egypt and Jordan.

Special cases : France (has the characteristics partially as the countries of Northern

EU and partially as the countries of Mediterranean EU) and Turkey, which is a

strong neighboring country, with a strong production that at the same time

cooperate and compete with the EU 27.

The business model of Northern Europe is based on specialization in the

production of technical textiles, technical innovation and large retail networks. The

products are of a high quality and high performances. The standard products for this

market are: clothing, home textiles, bedding, etc. mainly produced in Asia, Turkey,

Balkan and Mediterranean countries . This area is not greatly affected by the global

economic crisis. Final demand is still high.

The business model of Mediterranean Europe is based on the specialization in

production of fashion products and its retail. The design, branding and marketing of

fashion brands as well as the consumer goods, are present. This area is characterized

by the leading role of fashion brands of the middle and high fashion like: Zara,

Benetton, Calzedonia, Mango, Desigual, etc. The production of textiles and clothing

is still present in this area. Also, this area is a supplier of Northern Europe generally

with branded fashion apparel.

The business model in the new EU member countries is based on the lower

production costs (compared to the EU15), specialization and trained production

workers as well as on the satisfactory logistics i.e. on the fast deliveries and

services. Also, the delocalization of enterprises, that have brand or have access to

final markets of the Northern and Mediterranean Europe countries, is a

characteristic of this area. Lately, these advantages are considerably weakened due

to the import liberalization from Asia and the increasing competition of neighboring

countries of the Western Balkans, Ukraine and the Southern Mediterranean. This

has led to the fact, that only those manufacturers who have the firm contracts with

the companies from EU15 countries, have remained so far. Some companies have

moved to a mixed business model, i.e. one part of the production is still working for

foreign companies and the other part of the activities is focused on developing their

own-brand products. Mainly, the textile and clothing industry with its production

remained only in Romania and Bulgaria.

The business model in the Western Balkans and Eastern Europe countries is

characterized by the low production costs and vicinity to the large EU market. This

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makes these countries attractive for delocalization of companies from the developed

EU countries or for the direct foreign investments mainly for the garment

production of a medium and high quality. The small and medium enterprises are

increasingly becoming producers for EU customers. Competitive advantages of

these countries are: cheap labor and tax benefits will be lost by the accession of

these countries to the EU.

The business model in the Mediterranean neighboring countries is connected

with their long-time integration with the other developed EU countries. The

production delocalisation from developed countries into this area is its characteristic

process. The advantages of production in this area are: cheap labor, skilled workers

and vicinity of raw materials, for example Egypt. This area has long been a place of

production of many brands. However, today all the advantages are reduced due to

an unstable political and social situation.

2.1. SERBIAN TEXTILE INDUSTRY

Serbian textile industry employs 31.484 workers in 1.448 enterprises. The share in

GDP is 10 %. Exports amounted to $ 743 million. Average gross wages amounts

343 €.

Serbian enterprises can be divided into the following categories:

more than 1.000 employees - three companies ,

from 400 to 1.000 employees – around 20

from 100 to 400 employees - around 40

less than 100 employees make 90 % of all enterprises in the clothing

industry.

According to the NCA, Serbian textile enterprises are registered in three groups:

Manufacture of textile materials - 17 enterprises

Clothing production– 1.230 enterprises

Knitwear production 201 enterprises.

Serbian clothing industry employs 20.216 workers in 1.230 enterprises, of which 88

% are women. The average gross wage is 275 €.

Top 5 destinations for exports are: Italy, Germany, the Russian Federation, Bosnia

and Herzegovina and Montenegro.

Serbia has no source of raw materials and imports 90 % of raw materials mostly

from: Italy, China, Turkey, Germany and Bangladesh.

11 companies are still state-owned and are classified as large enterprises. 15% of

Serbian SMEs produce their own brand.

The classification of enterprises according to size in the Serbian textile industry is

shown in the following figure 4:

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Figure 4. Source: The Statistical Office of the Republic of Serbia

3. TECHNOLOGY OF CLOTHING PRODUCTION

In the industrial production of clothes, a working process is divided into: technical

preparation of production, tailoring technological process, sewing technological

process and technological process of finishing garments. The flow of materials

within production processes begins with the raw materials entering and goes

through: the raw materials storage, cutting technological process, sewing

technological processes, finishing technological process, storage of finished goods

up to the clothing delivery to the customers. In order that the clothing production

could be possible, the production process must be related to the technical clothing

preparation. Technical preparation of clothing is necessary because, before the

creation of a new garment, it is necessary to study the possibilities and conditions of

production and material properties, in order to foresee in advance all those factors

that may affect the process of work. This ensures the minimal consumption of labor,

drive energy and materials. It results in the economic production feasibility. In

addition to the aforementioned production units, the enterprise for the clothing

production includes: the space for maintenance, facilities for energy installations

and equipment as well as the office space for administrative purposes.

If we talk about the today's clothing technology, then we must bear in mind

the changes and conditions in which that production is performed. Primarily, it must

be borne in mind that the world is becoming smaller, the transport distances are

becoming shorter, the communications faster, and also, more and more growing

needs of the company to expand the market boundaries. The economy is in a

difficult situation. Once the national companies, with an international division of

labor arise in the world organizations, which are no longer characteristic and

dependent on the local market and local production centers. Every business entity

must re-examine its role in that whole process and must be adapted to the new game

rules. All this sets the very high standards of clothing products quality within the

modern garment industry. In order to meet these criteria of the clothing production,

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the investments in many scientific disciplines, for which is characteristic that deal

with the humanization of all human life areas, are noticeable today.

Today's industrial mode of production developed from the craft mode of

production and the clothes manufacturing, if it is viewed from the standpoint of

history. For this mode, a division of garment preparation into a number of

technological operations, is characteristic. This allowed the specialization of

workers for a quality production of certain operations. Also, this mode of the large

batches clothing production allowed the use of specialized machines that perform

certain technological operations. All this has led to an increase in productivity and

quality as well as to the reduction of production costs.

Today, the industrial organization of the technological process of clothing

production has generally two main groups of activities:

1. the preparation of production and

2. the production.

3.1. TECHNOLOGICAL PROCESSES OF CLOTHING PRODUCTION

INSPIRED BY CULTURAL HERITAGE OF SERBIAN AND BULGARIAN

PEOPLES

The clothing production inspired by the cultural heritage of the Serbian and

Bulgarian peoples, must be seen as the final products dependence of the material

types that are incorporated into these products as well as of the specific

technological work operations that will be necessary used in making these products.

This dependence is very important, if it is known that these products are often made

of the hand-made materials with different structures, patterns, raw material

composition, non-standard dimensions, etc.

The clothing production, inspired by the cultural heritage of the Serbian and

Bulgarian people, can not be considered as a conventional industrial series

production. At best, we can talk about the production of small product batches.

However, in this case, the production organization and its conditions need to be

discussed. Certainly, in this case the organizational conditions of production are

dependent on the procurement plans of primary and auxiliary materials, as well as

on the sales plans. The sale plans are very important and must be based on a market

research. The material procurement, its processing into finished products and sales

of these products are certainly a complex system in which there are a lot of

problems to be solved and in this case when the clothes, inspired by cultural

heritage, will be produced. In addition to the usual problems related to the industrial

production of clothes, some additional problems occur in this case. Therefore, prior

to the creation of a new garment, it should anticipate as better as possible the

technological production capabilities, material properties, which will be

incorporated into the products, as well as all the elements that can influence on the

work procedure. Only previously well-designed production can bring good results

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in the development of high quality products with the minimum of labor force,

production capacities and materials.

Figure 5. Shematic representation of production process of clothes

The process of clothes production inspired by the cultural heritage of the

Serbian and Bulgarian peoples can be divided into:

Technical preparation of production,

Technological process of tailoring,

Technological process of sewing and

Technological process of garment finishing.

All work processes in the production of any clothing quantity, usually

contain all these phases. This division will be more expressed in the case of

increasing quantity of produced clothing pieces in the single production

batchs. Figure 5 showes a shematic representation of production process.

3.1.1 . TECHNICAL PRODUCTION PREPARATION OF CLOTHING

INSPIRED BY CULTURAL HERITAGE OF SERBIAN AND BULGARIAN

PEOPLES

Today, any serious clothing production is market-oriented. Therefore, if

someone wants to be engaged in the clothing production or already has his own

production, he is facing the same issue, and it is how to make a clothing product

that customers will accept. A good answer to this question certainly gives

chances for survival to the producers in the market and for their success in a today’s

race against time.

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Therefore, today a special attention is paid to the technical preparation of

clothing production. Technical preparation in the clothing production includes four

organizational wholes, as follows:

construction preparation,

technological preparation,

operational preparations and

testing materials.

Technical preparation must in advance detaily foresee the performance of individual

technological stages. Only in this case, the workers will not waste time thinking

about how to do a certain job. A good preparation also provides ensuring of all

necessary devices, equipment and materials for the smooth functioning of

production process. This means that the rational clothing production can only be

achieved if the technical preparation is well done, where everything must be

accurately pre-planned, in order to make clear and complete technical-technological

documentation in terms of what needs to be done and how it should be done in the

production.

Considering the total time required to produce a garment product, it must be

kept in the mind that the technical clothing preparation requires far more time than

the time required for the actual production of the same garment product. The fact is

that very little attention is paid to the technical preparation especially in some of our

private companies in the clothing industry. Some time measuring results for the

clothes making done by consultants, indicate that the time for product making in

some of our enterprises can be shortened more than 30 %. This is certainly a

consequence of the nonexistence of operational and technological clothing

preparation in these enterprises. The reasons for the poorly organized technical

preparation or even for the preparation nonexistence, are related with significant

financial resources that preparation requires, but on the other hand, there is less and

less people trained for the jobs within the technical preparation that can adequately

respond to the demands of the today’s market given to the clothing manufacturers.

Before making the technological process plans of clothing production and

designing production lines, it is necessary to briefly explain what precedes it. In

fact, there must be an idea of clothing product that we want to create. From the idea

to the final clothing production, through the time period of development of the

industrial clothing production, there is a defined way, that to a greater or lesser

extent has to be followed if one wants success in the market. On that way, there are

many obstacles that one needs to know how to eliminate them, in order that

the clothing is going to be produced the way a fashion designer wants it to be.

3.1.1.1. CONSTRUCTIVE PREPARATION

Constructive preparation requires highly qualified skilled people from different

specialties: designers, constructors, tailors, model makers, marketing experts, etc.

This preparation includes the following tasks:

collecting ideas for a new product ,

designing and sketching models,

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making collections,

constructing basic cuts,

duplicating basic cuts,

modeling and cuts completing and

making sewing patterns.

Figure 6 showes computer aided production process of fashion collection.

Figure 6. Computer aided production process of fashion collection

The constructive preparation works start from the idea of clothing product, its

development and preparation for a serial production. Working in the constructive

preparation significantly affects the realization of the final garment look, its

functionality and price. The constructive preparation is now equipped with

computers i.e. Cad systems that, in significantly less time, prepare cuts of a far

better quality than the conventional manual preparation. Today, a very large number

of software is developed, so that complete technical documentation is made by these

industrial software.

IDEAS COLLECTING FOR NEW PRODUCT. The first step of the garment

realization includes: the creation, selection, and development of ideas. Designers at

this stage have the creative freedom. This freedom must be adapted to the

production plan and technological production capabilities, primarily to the existing

machine park and human resources. It is very important that designers create

original ideas in order to realize the clothes acceptable in the increasingly

demanding market. They generate ideas for new garments or offer the ideas for the

development of existing garments. Frequently these ideas have three evolutionary

stages:

creation (birth),

selection and

elaboration.

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The creation and collection of ideas is the most complex activity in the entire

creative process. For the creation and collection of ideas there are different ways but

there are two predominant:

making ideas from case to case and

systematic way of generating and collecting ideas.

The first method is based on intuition and imagination of the designers. Ideas can

be conceived at professional conferences, trade fairs, exhibitions, fashion shows,

from fashion magazines. Inspiration can also come from the environment and

nature.

Another way is comprehensive and involves a systematic approach and undertaking

a series of systematic activities aimed at creating the idea of new clothing products:

research and knowledge of the market,

opinions and suggestions of buyers and sellers,

cooperation with the creation center and design of clothing,

monitoring changes in the technology of production of clothing,

following fashion trends and literature, visit fairs, shows and exhibitions,

continuous improvement of designers,

monitoring the production of competing manufacturers,

knowledge of new solutions in the development of materials for clothing

etc.

When you create the ideas they need to be a suitable technique to record - usually

art sketch model. Then, the management company selects the proposed ideas and

gradually choosing one that thinks that the market will accept them. In doing so, the

most used the following criteria:

ideas for creating new or improving existing garment must be within the

production plan,

ideas must be harmonized with the possibility of making an article of

clothing in the technological process,

realization of ideas should reduce subsequent interventions and process re-design,

out of ideas to be created new, high quality and preferably genuine

product and

result of the realization of the idea must be profit companies.

When a solution is selected for the conceptual design model for the development,

further development of ideas is continues. This includes the elaboration of a detailed

analysis of the possibilities and conditions of its production, ie. refinement of the

technological process by which this garment will be manufactured.

MODERN APPROACH TO FASHION INFORMATION. The market of

fashion products is erratic. In order to reduce risks and ensure profit manufacturers

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are resorted to systematically gather a collection of information. That resulted in the

development of the database WGSN - Worth Global Style Network (Network value

of global style).

Figure 7. WGSN – network of value of global style

Database WGSN. Database WGSN is the global service trend analysis and

research that provides creative business notices in clothing, styles, design and retail

for at least two years in advance. By using the WGSN database an increase of the

speed of product launches on the market can be achieved as well as the productivity

and supply chain efficiency. It also reduces travel costs of designers that attend

fashion shows and fairs. Databases provide insight into a large data archive that has

over 5 million images and 650 000 pages information, fashion shows of world's

most famous designers, as well as information on identified and documented trends

across world. The database contains current developments and changes in fashion,

arts and culture, color, actual consumer behavior, current materials, the latest

developments in the business world in the field of fashion and technology.

The database contains information about the trends that are carefully analyzed in

order to ensure accuracy, the influence of the validity of the identified future trends

offered by WGSN database. The analysis in this database are presented as a key

issue (the macro trends) that is a guide that influences the design of future fashion

collections for at least two years in advance, as well as predictions of future

consumer profiles. Defined trends have special emphasis on women, men, and

children's sportswear, accessories with detailed recommendations of key colors,

objects, silhouette, styling and graphics.

This database contains the vector made sketches of models with exactly defined in

details that are understandable to people who do modeling of clothes. It also

contains the vector and raster images to create screen and digital printing on

garments accommodating with current trends.

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Databases with color palettes for each season, for each collection and every type of

clothing includes a number of Pantone thus making it easy for the suppliers of

textile materials to get the exact shade of color.

The WGSN database contains information accompanying events throughout the

world, because this database is constantly updated with information of news,

reviews and sales reports from the world's leading retail destinations. An analysis is

given of customer reactions to certain items of clothing, colors, and decorations as

well as to which fashion designers are favorites among the customers. By following

these analysis there is insight into what color should be forced into new products,

which cuts should be repeated so as not to repeat the mistakes of the previous

collections.

WGSN database also offers information on design solutions for the decoration for

interior design of retail stores of clothing and provides advice and examples of how

to brand certain products in order to be recognized in the market. Thereby allows

users of the database in a creative way to master decorating skills.

CURRENT DATABASE CONTENT WGSN - WSGN Fall-Winter 2015/16 -

forecast of trends and customer preferences:

Trend " Data divination"

Macro trend called Data divination describes the future based on the intersection of

data and intuition. New applications and augmented reality through technology

makes it possible to experience their environment in a new way. There is an

increased interest in the unconscious reality and neuroscience. Consumers want to

know and understand how others see the world around them and want to broaden

their horizons, thus favoring brands that will make this possible. It is of great

importance to customers to be provided with increased knowledge and creativity.

Priorities: The priorities within the essence of trend data are All in the mind, Thick

Data, and Human applications. These branches of the primary trend explore

increased customer interest in the subconscious and for humanizing technology.

All in your head. It is observed that there is a growth of desire and the possibility of

understanding human thoughts. This leads to the development of technology that

allows users to mind control products.

When conducting a survey on the reasons for the purchase of certain products, It

happens that the customer does not want to reveal why he bought a particular

product, sometimes they are not even aware of why they paid for something.

Neuromarketing allows researchers to develop a scientific approach to the study of

the behavior of customers and their buying habits. This area studies brain activity

and reactions to marketing, branding and more. Companies Affdex and Emotient

have developed technology to read facial expressions that analyze the emotions

caused by certain advertisements.

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Human applications. Customers interested in devices and applications will allow

them to see, hear and touch the pile of details that they were not able before, or will

allow them to experience something in a way that is experienced by others. More

recent scientific studies show that male and female brains do not function in the

same way. A small portion of the female population has four rather than three color

receptors, which means that they can see the colors that other people cannot. New

colors are not found and designers themselves must find new inspiration. And in a

variety of cultures, colors have different meanings, and no person feels or sees

things in exactly the same way as any other.

Contextual data. Phenomenon called Big Data is engaged in budget analysis, which

leads to detailed information about the great groups of consumers. By contrast,

there is a high priority for this information to humanize. Therefore, the analysis of

Thick Data is engadged.

Contextual Data represent an integrative approach to research. Contextual analysis

data rely on the power of the human brain to process the small number of things, as

analysis of group data requires computer power that will analyze large amounts of

data. Contextual data reveal social context, connectivity data, the stories, the

possibility of human learning and multiple data submitted figures, and relies on

computerized learning. Customers are interested in the story, and thus increase the

desire for substituting numbers and neuroscience of human detail and context.

Increasing interest in ethnography - where there were stories of people and describe

the objects that surround it in order to understand the culture of consumers. Blog

titled Ethnography Matters deals with human experience and is opposed to the trend

where people are treated as numbers, data and markets.

Conclusions about the macro trends "Data divination"

Consumers believe in the power of the subconscious mind and are

beginning to realize that the future will be surrounded by products that are

controlled by the mind

Neuromarketing is a field of research that is being developed and directed

to the detection of impulse purchases that customers themselves can not

always explain

Customers are willing to expand their cognitive capabilities and increase

the likelihood that they will soon be able to see, hear and touch things that

they had never been able before

Contextual data is key to understanding and analyzing social context and

human stories

Ethnography becomes an important factor for marketers, brand strategy and

consumers.

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Trend "Social superhero"

This trend is related to issues such as privacy, sustainability and product life.

Consumers are concerned about long-term plans and are focused on the future that

is fairer for everyone. The goal is to design long-lasting but convenient and frequent

changes in the world. There is a concern for private data that is left on the online

sites. Due to the fact that clothing retail is transitioning to the Internet at a high

speed, there is a need for better securing of private data.

Conscientious consumption. Consumers are thinking more about what they buy, as

well as when, where and why they buy. It increases the value of the experience and

reduces the value of the property. Brands that allow responsible purchase will be

developed. There is a feeling of global dissatisfaction with the current economy and

its reliance on the frantic shopping, and the trend moving towards meaningful

changes.

Idealism. The user can modify the identity on the Internet, so that a person is

present in a manner that suits them best. However, most Internet social sites do not

actually delete your data if you wish, but rather keep them. Because of this we see

an increase in the use and application of private sites or even online conversation

encryption to ensure privacy.

Trend "Everyday Utopias"

This trend is celebrates daily habits and life.

Money and time saving is to be spent on

important content and experiences. There is an

increased need for intimacy, both physical and

digital world. Routine activities become essential

for the future design, product development and

research consumer.

Tactical enjoyment. The motivation for

enjoyment

has evolved, before the recession money was

being spent on creating memories, now money is

being spent to reduce stress and enrich life.

Goods with medium prices are not purchased;

rather cheap items are bought so money can be

saved for the later purchase of expensive items.

Epic intimacy. There is an increase of the need for isolation and finding space in

the where you can be alone. Technology takes away the ability to be alone, and this

is because it follows our every step.

Division of consumers within the current macro trends "Developers empathy"

These consumers are very familiar with technology and computers but at the same

time do not want to lose the intuition and instinct as ways of understanding the

world around them. These consumers are in need of empathy and "autrospection"

Figure 8. Trend every day utopia

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(As opposed to introspection).

Consumers will buy brands that are not afraid of the unknown, that risk and break

the rules. They understand the power of misunderstanding and are not afraid to

admit that they do not know all the answers; they respect brands that do not hide

that they are not always experts in everything. Developers empathy respect design

and like to develop computer creativity.

Figure 9. “Programmers of empathy”

"Social superhero"

Consumers question the economic system and the success of capitalism. They are

interested in brands that provide long-term solutions for major problems while at

the same time encourage flexibility in the world to is constantly changing.

There is a sense that new analyses are necessary of urban experience that will

bridge the gap between "online" and "offline" experiences. Consumers are still

concerned about privacy while at the same time strive for their five minutes of

fame. Brands that allow more fluid access to social networks will win. Numbered

are the days that security codes were given and consumers are looking for better

ways to protect identity and other values in the virtual world.

Figure 10. “Social superheroes”

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"Cloud Surfers"

These consumers use the beneficial aspects of our socially constructed world,

managing the power of groups of people to their advantage. These individuals

expand themselves, and their power lies in the fact that they are able to perform a

piles of function that are previously could only be performed by large organizations.

They want to introduce a method of consumption that is kind to the natural

environment and to experience positive experience. They are afraid of monitoring

and data theft over the Internet and respected brands that allow them to enter the site

without registration and entry of private data.

"Newtopiers" These consumers are experts in knowledge of environments. They are able to

maintain many important private conversations as the online world and social

networks keep them informed about daily activities. They value their freedom

resulting in an increased number of freelancers. They are creative and diligent and

they respect brands that allow them to follow their own path. They are realistic and

in addition to having great ideas and visions of utopia, understand how to create

experience for themselves that will refresh their daily routine.

TOP TRENDS FOR CLOTHING RETAILE FOR 2014.

Renewal of services. The new service strategy will be an essential step for the

retailers in the coming year, with improved interactions with customers in store or

adding new tools to the platform for Internet sales. New service levels that have

previously been seen in luxury stores continue to appear in the mass market. The

connection will become key, because customers are showing increased interest in

chatting with brands and retailers. There will be a development of a sense of

friendship between fashion stores. Personalization is also becoming part of the

service, and it is up to designers to figure out how to best display the service area of

the store.

Focus on technology. Technology will play a key role and traders will better meet and accept the

limitations and use. It is about technology related to the location of the sale, which

will be used by consumers with apps that can be used with the domestic

applications, that are within the devices that they carry (phones, tablets).

Timely intervention. As to the online sales, merchants recognize more the benefits

of inclusion in the customer's choice, with the help of live chats. This aspect will

soon be required on every sales site garment, because it is a major profit.

Customer loyalty. This concept is well

done for online sales, where each

customer can have their profile, with a

history of buying. This system should

move into stores and come up with a way

to do it.

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Offline attraction of customers. Although the boundaries between physical and

digital are fadeing, online merchants open up shop in a physical space, thus further

promoting their brand and attracting more customers. Since the online marketing

became very popular and effective, therefore the increase in price came about, so

traders are realizing more and more the material benefits in store opening.

A new brand for a new value. Digital, economic and environmental factors have

played an important role in the creation of new cultural value. These new values

force the old brands to "put on new clothes", add branches to the main brand as an

answer to the growing demand.

Stores that expand the mind. Cultural and educational activities are all frequently

occurring in clothing stores. This distinction is made between online shopping and

in in store shopping. Activities are introduced due to the increase customer desires

to artistic education and experience. This trend is already widely popular in Asia

and in Europe it is beginning to develop.

Content that can be easily purchased. With the help of platforms with digital

content, the presentation of content that can be purchased immediately allowed. A

representative of this purchasing is buying through smart television, where within

the commercials during certain product, the product can be purchased. An example

is an ad for men's underwear with David Beckham the brand H & M. This is how

you satisfy impatient customers who expect to get what they want in the time to

read.

Figure 11. Stores that expand the mind Figure 12. Content which can be easily purchased

Fashion companies need to be prepared for various scenarios, to anticipate risks and

understand the social context and the context of the environment in which they do

business.

Energy efficiency, tracking technology development and communication with

customers can lead to advantages, and sustainable business. The world is very

rapidly changing and the changes are unpredictable, and will depend on success of

flexibility and innovation of the brand. Companies need to invest in design and

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innovation, to explore new business models and to test new ideas. Given that the

fashion industry is made up of many other industries, companies should pay

attention to unexpected competition. Because of this partnerships are proposed for

mutual growth and progress. Developing new skills is essential for future success.

Businesses should explore the trends in which the customer is involved in the

design and sale and the purchase of fashion products.

CREATING AND SKETCHING GARMENTS. Further procedure of

implementation of created, selected and developed ideas means to create them. In

the process of creating it is necessary to pay attention to the quality provided,

construction, available materials, the possibilities of the technological process, size,

standards, etc... Creating a visual presentation of garment objects through sketches,

drawings or paintings on paper, computer, etc.. One should be shown in as much

detail, in various techniques of drawing or painting, because it is the visual

experience of the future garment and it helps gain first impressions of its overall

quality.

The overall quality of the garment consists of four individual qualities:

technical-functional quality,

aesthetic quality,

economic and quality

ergonomic qualities.

The functional quality of the garment is reflected in the satisfaction of its purpose

(work clothing, everyday, sporting, formal, protective clothing or special purpose).

Aesthetic quality is related to the appearance of an article of clothing (color, cut,

size, shape, pattern, texture, ornament, etc..) that primarily needs to satisfy the

consumer. The extent to which the garment raises aesthetic satisfaction for the user,

depending on the functional, social, historical, ethnological, cultural and other

factors.

Economic quality refers to the price of the product; because it is necessary to

satisfy the interests of consumers and the interests of producers. It includes

successful advertising of the product in the market, which can be achieved by

giving a good price of the product.

Ergonomic quality refers to the suitability and subordination to man and his needs

for clothes.

With a design an aesthetic quality garment is crated. In developing designs or

sketches visual and geometric elements are used: line, surface, color, shape, size,

ornament, texture, and composition of their art principles: harmony, symmetry,

proportion, rhythm, emphasis, contrast, graduations, etc..

MAKING OF THE COLLECTION. Making of the collection aims at

concretization of market demands in a group of specific garments for the same

purpose. Production collection includes the following tasks:

gathering information on the methods and characteristics of dressing,

introduction of new materials, changes in the technology of making

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clothes, market requirements and etc.,

proposing the structure program of the collection, taking into account the

purpose of clothing, their type and characteristics,

collection, selection and evaluation of samples of primary and auxiliary

materials, as well as the accessories, from different suppliers,

preparation and proposal of drafts model collection of new clothing,

evaluation and selection of the best collections of models,

on selected models, according to sketches, production cuts of a model,

prototyping a number of models that represent carriers of certain groups of

cuts, for their testing and evaluation, it is only the they can observe the

required quality,

formation of technical documentation, which contains the most important

technical characteristics of the selected models, which will facilitate their

manipulation and information

applying for pricing,

establishing a plan of presentation of the new collection customers

analysis of possible objections and making adjustments in the event of

justified objections,

releasing specific models for test production for final determination of the

technology of mass-production,

making cuts of selected models in basic sizes,

preparation of documentation and provision of instructions for

programming production and

organization and elaboration of the concept of product presentation on

fairs, magazines, catalogs, advertising, internet, etc..

KALEDO STYLE. KALEDO STYLE is a French software of the company Lectra,

designed for fashion design. It enables fashion designers to easily get to new trends

and themes, makes it easier to design new styles, create the product in different

colors and materials. The possibility of obtaining high quality images allows quick

and easy communication with readers of technical specifications. Figure 13 showes

fashion collection develop in software Kaledo Style.

One of the most important opportunities provided by new technologies in making

the collection is the creation of electronic product catalogs. These catalogs can also

be made in the appropriate software, such as KALEDO STYLE, without the need to

previously sew garment patterns. For their creation it is not the existence of the

material even necessary to the company of which the clothes are to be made.

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Figure 13. Development of fashion collection in Kaledo Style

They can make a virtual product catalog offered to customers. Depending on

customer requirements, which are offered by a virtual catalog, further procurement

of materials and production is done. In this simple and cheap way a large number of

clothing models can be made for a very short time. It is also important that the

catalog is in an electronic form and as such can be sent via the Internet to customers

either where they are. A company that decides to make their catalogs in this way

can design their own models or they can scan real people and bring them to record

by an appropriate technique in the computer. The following figure shows a layout of

options for the mentioned catalog. Figure 14 shows one of the possible look of

mentioned catalloge.

Figure14. Main page of an electronic catalog of a garment

The person presenting the clothes is located in the central part of the monitor with

clothes that are proposed for the coming season. Materials that are proposed for the

next season are also located on the right of the screen and can be according to the

wishes of customers by simply changing the displayed person. The left side has a

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large number of people with diverse models that proposes clothing for the next

season. At the center of the screen it is easy to position any of these people.

Garments which are formed in this way only on the computer have a realistic and

natural look.

DEVELOPMENT OF TECHNICAL DOCUMENTATION using industrial

design software KALEDO STYLE on example of a female sweater. Time in

which we live in is characterized by the progressive development of science,

engineering and technology, which reflects on the textile industry as well as the

designers. Handmade fashion drawings and technical sketches are almost

completely replaced with computer drafting. Increasingly, software is used for

vector drawings of sketch models which contributes to faster and more efficient

development of sketches and accompanying technical documentation.

DESCRIPTION AND SKETCH OF MODEL. In order to fully define the model,

it must be described and sketched. The description is made for each part of the

model, while the details to be found on the front, the back, the sleeves and collar

shall be specified. In addition to descriptions of appearance, it is necessary to

describe the ways of making some key details on the model, and also what kind of

linings and interlinings are used. In describing the model, we need to pay attention

to the description that should be concise, precise and comprehensible.

During sketching of a model, all the details must be entered i.e. each said gusset,

hole, button, trim, etc.., because all of them characterize the model and give it the

appropriate look. This must be entered because the constructor performs

construction and modeling of a given model based on these sketches. Sketch is

colored in colors of materials for better clarity, and samples of all materials

included in the model are submitted, for the testing of their physical and chemical

features and possible additions of the pattern that could predict the "behavior" of the

material on the finished garment. Based on all of these informations constructor

starts making the patterns.

MAKING OF MODEL SKETCHES IN KALEDO STYLE. For work in this

program a group of tools is used, and they are divided on bars depending of the type

of tools. On this picture groups of tools that will be used to create technical sketch

models are shown.

1.

2.

3.

4.

5.

6. Picture 15. 1) Basic tools, 2) useful tools for manipulation and rotation,

3) vectors, 4) pictures, 5) motives, 6) color

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Drawing of a sketch starts by pulling an axis of symmetry, which is located in the

toolbar of useful tools. For drawing itself we use tools from the vectors toolbar.

The rearrangement of vectors is done by using its component points. Drawing is

performed with multi tool line by laying the points. Right click ends the form.

QWA and S keys are used to reshape the line segment in the curve. To limit lines

horizontally or vertically the Shift key is used.

For easier drawing it is possible to activate a help grid inside the working area.

Gravity option allows us to draw and position the elements with greater accuracy.

Gravity can be set in a way that vector line is attracted to the net in a drawing area

or toward other vector objects. Picture 16. Shows the working area and beginning of

making a model sketches, from pulling the axis of symmetry.

Picture 16. The basic sketches outline of a female sweater model

For filling the gap, i.e. for drawing the render, hatch that is set in the option card

effects and samples is used (shown in the following picture)

Picture 17. Hatching option, i.e. drawing of the render on the trousers

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Picture 18. Technical sketch of female sweater model

Picture 19. Elaboration of the model by colors. Shows colors and patterns.

After creating of vector drawings for female pants model, development of model by

color is started. The 1st model is made of designed material, while the other two

were made from mono colored material. In order to implement the design in a

sketch it is necessary to insert a picture of design or scanned picture of the material

in the working area of Kaledo. This is accomplished by using a tool for inserting

images from the File menu. Double click on a color for filling the form opens a

window where on a design card we have options for adding a design. (As shown on

picture).

Picture 20. Design adding window

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If we opt for a mono colored material then the color of the material can be selected

from pantone card. (As shown in picture)

Picture 21. Window for adding the design pantone colors

PREPARATION OF TECHNICAL DOCUMENTATION. Components list, is a

document that accompanies the product through all its stages. It contains data about

the range of sizes, colors and patterns on, details of the base material and material

which is going to be incorporated.

There are different forms, but universally it includes the following information:

The number of components list / current year.

Production unit

A description of the model sketches

Sketch model

Raw materials that are entering into the composition of materials

Launch date ...

During the completion of the components list, map patterns (farben map) is made,

and it contains data on primary and auxiliary material and materials that are

installed (name, code, width, energy use, samples of each color and pattern, thread,

fasteners, buttons, etc..). Designs map is made in 3 - 4 copies (for tailors

department, department of sewing machines, and department of control of

intermediate and final quality and sometimes for commercial service). Following

pictures show the technical documentation for the model of female sweater.

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Figure 22: Component list

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Figure 23: Component list

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Figure 24: Component list

Advanced design tools, such as industrial software solution KALEDO STYLE,

facilitate quicker defining of new styles and layout patterns. Users of this software

are enabled to quickly and easily generate their own ideas, combine colors, fabrics

and styles, all with the aim of obtaining the optimal solution for the creation of their

product range. KALEDO STYLE offers an unlimited number of variations

regarding fabrics, colors, patterns, ornaments as well as numerous details. Because

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of these Kaledo features course of the development process is facilitated and the

introduction of advanced technologies and combining them with the imagination

and creativity of a user, presents the perfect solution for creating innovation and

trends customization.

KALEDO STYLE usage is a challenge for a single user, because it reduces the

pressure of short deadlines for realization of technical documentation and increases

the desire and motivation for creative work. Precisely for this reason, Kaledo is a

solution that is gladly accepted among the designers because it represents a way of

processing their idea to the final realization in a shorter, more beautiful and much

more exciting way to meet the challenges of today.

CONSTRUCTION OF THE BASIC PATTERNS. Construction of the basic

patterns implies drafting drawings where main and auxiliary pattern points and lines

are used to construct, model, complete and reproduce clothes. These task also

consist of standardizing the patterns.

Art sketches of the apparel from the chosen collection are used for constructing

basic clothes patterns for primary and auxiliary materials that clothes will be made

of. Knowledge of constructive properties of selected materials is mandatory, as well

as of their impact and behavior in the completed piece of clothing.

Construction of clothing patterns is done based on

Human body proportions

Pictograms (body silhouette)

Clothes sizing systems

Body measures

Figure 25 shows construction of clothes

Figure 25. Construction of clothes

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Clothing construction measures can be grouped as

Primary measures

Auxiliary measures (proportion, construction measures)

Control measures

Primary measures are obtained by measuring body dimensions: height, bust, waist,

hips, and neck. Auxiliary measures, necessary for pattern construction, can be

measured on the body or calculated based on primary measures and human body

proportions. For calculating them, mathematical formulas are used based on body

height for length measures, or, based on bust for width measures.

Clothing sizes for male, female and children clothes are based on construction of

the basic pattern according to table sizes, acquired from primary and auxiliary

measures. Clothing size markings are different in some countries, because they are

made according to specific standards for each country.

GRADING OF PATTERNS. Industrial production creates clothes of

different sizes. During technical preparing, patterns are made for common

sizes, and other sizes are made by grading. During grading it is important to

pay attention to size differences for different clothes sizing, which is the rule

of grading. Since these tasks can be very difficult, over time different

methods of grading have been developed. Today, all serious industries use CAD systems for these tasks. Figure 26 shows grading of cutting parts.

Figure 26. Grading of cutting parts

MODELLING, COMPLETING AND STANDARDIZING OF PATTERNS.

Patterns made through basic construction are modelled in order to satisfy a larger

number of customers. Construction solutions start from fitting models of clothes,

but in order to satisfy more customers, basic patterns become wider, looser fitting or

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in one word – modeled. This can be done by transferring seams or making new

ones, adding pleats, gatherings.

Today modeling is also used for rationalizing of constructional preparing. Patterns

are not constructed from scrap but by reconstructing and remodeling existing

patterns, new patterns can be made.

Completing consists of preparing and making of all parts of clothing, or all patterns

needed for production. This implies:

Adding of seam lines, hems and allowances

Constructing of other parts not made from primary or auxiliary material

Cutting and drafting of patterns

Adding of seam lines, hems and allowances is done for different types of clothes

by adding different seam values, depending on the type of material, finishing, tools,

gathering, etc. For completing a piece of clothing, besides constructing the main

parts it is necessary to construct other parts from primary material: loops, bias tapes,

bindings, etc., as well as parts from auxiliary material such as: linings, interlinings,

pocket linings, ribbings and different reinforcements. Constructing of these parts is

usually done based on existing pattern.

After adding all seams, hems and allowances on primary material patterns, and after

constructing other parts, patterns are cut in necessary amounts for the specific piece

of clothing. For example: left and right front part, back part, left and right sleeve

etc. The same procedure is used to make patterns from auxiliary materials.

During technical preparation of clothes, if possible, it is good to standardize each

new pattern or its part, because that way those parts can be later used again.

Standardization includes determining of the dimensions and quality of the basic

pattern as well as the technology of its making. This way the production is

simplified and rationalized which results in lowering of the costs.

PATTERN LAYOUT. Pattern layout consists of all necessary pattern parts for a

clothing piece, rationally fitted onto a selected surface (paper, fabric, screen…).

Pattern layouts are made separately for each used material: primary material, lining,

and interlining, pocket lining, etc. Figure 27 shows screen layout with cutting

picture.

Rationally made pattern layout enables maximal usage of material. During fitting of

pattern parts into a pattern layout, several rules must be followed:

Pattern layout must be clear so it doesn’t disrupt cutting

Pattern parts must be placed following the grain or row of loops of the knit

Placing according to fabric pattern (if the layout is made for designed

fabrics such as striped, floral or squared)

Achieving the most rational position, which affects the norms of material

spending.

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Figure 27. Screen layout with cutting picture

3.1.1.2. TECHNOLOGICAL PREPARING

All the above described tasks are part of construction preparing. When these tasks

are finished, technological preparing tasks in clothes production begin.

Technological preparing consists of analysis and improvement of tasks in

technological processes. But also in this phase new technological tasks and

operations can be developed. Technological preparing usually consists of following

types of tasks:

Technological analysis of producing operations and choosing of work means

Drafting of construction plans

Choosing of optimal production lines

Optimization of equipment placement

Choosing the rational technology process system

Creating the inter-phase transport system

Finding the most optimal workplace installment system

Drafting the plans of technological processes and designing the production lines

Determining the technical-technological properties for programming machines

and equipment

Work study

Shaping of workplaces

TECHNOLOGICAL ANALYSIS OF PRODUCTION OPERATIONS. This

analysis consists of dividing the work of making the clothing to multiple

technological operations. In the manufacture type of production, all technological

operations are done by one worker, which is unacceptable for industrial production

where this work needs to be divided. The number of technological operations for

creating a simple piece of clothing such as shirt is around ten. Number of

technological operations needed for more complex clothes can be over hundred.

The task of technological analysis of the making of clothes is to rationally divide

the job into multiple technological operations fit for industrial type of production,

according to technical capabilities of machines owned by the industry.

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MAKING OF PLANS OF TECHNOLOGICAL OPERATIONS. Plan of

technological operations is one of the main documents used for production

processes. The plan itself represents a specific document where technological

operations are entered (as well as other data following the technological operation)

and grouped during the technological analysis. All technological operations needed

for creating a piece of clothing are entered into plan chronologically. Based on this

plan other technical-technological documentation is made. Making of technological

operations plan is necessary for:

Technological process of cutting

Technological process of sewing

Technological process of finishing

Each plan of technological operations should consist of:

The name of the clothing

Model name

Short description of model

Model sketch

Buyer name

Number of work order

Date

Mark and name of technological operation

Names of work tools

Name of work category

Technological operation time

Making of technological operations plans is a responsible job and it’s usually done

by technologists. These plans are made based on operation list, construction plans

and other data from production line that is important production process. Basic data

for calculating the plan of technological processes is:

The number of workers employed in production unit

Work shift time

Daily capacity of the production unit

Necessary work means

Timing of the production unit tact

When this data is calculated, the plan of technological process can be made based

on the next table

The name of the clothing:_________________

Model name:___________________________

Production unit mark____________________

Daily production unit capacity_____________

Number of production unit workers_________

Daily capacity per worker_________________

Daily shift time_________________________

Group tact_____________________________

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3.1.1.3. OPERATIONAL PREPARING

Operational preparing consists of tasks that can be grouped in:

1. Determining the production capacity

2. Planning and following the production

3. Planning of necessary material amounts

4. Completing and launching of the work orders

DETERMINING THE PRODUCTION CAPACITY. Production capacity is the

amount of product that can be realized by the industry in a given time. Production

capacity is affected by: types and amount of work material, number of workers and

their qualification structure, types and amount of clothes, ability of obtaining

necessary amounts of material, and market.

For calculating production capacity, following data is needed:

Annual work hour fond, Tg - hours

Number of workers R

Daily shift hours Tr, hours

Production time per time unit t1, hours

Degree of production Sp, %

The annual work hour fond is calculated using the formula:

Tg = D · Tr · R

Where D is the number of days in a year

Partial work hour fond is calculated from the formula:

Tgi = D · Tr · Ri

Where Ri is a partial number of workers employed per article

Daily work hour fond is calculated using the formula:

Td = Tr · R or Td = D

Tg

According to which:

Annual production capacity is:

Cg =

1t

RTD r

Three types of capacities are used in clothing industry and those are:

1. Limit capacity (installed) – enables production of specific amount of

clothes by a production unit, regardless of losses

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2. Planned capacity – considers machine losses (around 8%) and worker loss

(around 4%)

3. Real capacity – realized amount of product for planned time period.

Production planning and following. Production planning is predicting of tasks for

the future time period and it represents one of the most important tasks in

operational preparing. In the clothing industry group plans are used consisting of

specific plans (for example plan of realization of finished products, production plan,

investment plan, material obtaining plan, plan of worker number, amortization

plan). Because of the frequent changes, short-term plans are mostly used consisting

of seasonal plans (six-month plans, spring/summer, autumn/winter), monthly plans

(operational), weekly plans and daily plans.

The example of activity terms for the jobs for winter collection is shown in

following table.

3.1.1.4. FABRICS EXAMINATION

In order to obtain products of desired quality and also in order to prevent

production lags caused by fabric errors, it is necessary to examine all types of

fabrics stored in clothing industry. All examinations are done according to

standards for each type of fabric.

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3.1.2. TECHNOLOGICAL PROCESS OF CUTTING

Most of the clothes produced today consist of multiple parts. These parts must

be cut out of primary and auxiliary materials. Cutting tasks are done in cutting

room which is a part of production force. Cutting process can be divided in

multiple tasks and technological procedures:

1. Technical preparing of the documentation which consists of: pattern layout,

material, machines and units, technological cutting conditions

2. Stacking of fabric

3. Transferring pattern layouts to fabric stacks

4. Drafting of patterns and marking key points

5. Frontal fixing

6. Marking of clothes parts

7. Layering and preparing for transport to cutting room

Figure 28. Cutting process of cutting parts

3.1.3. TECHNOLOGICAL PROCESS OF SEWING

Sewing consists of multiple tasks and methods in the process of making of clothes.

Sewing is done in the sewing room. By sewing, cut parts are put together in a

complete clothing piece. The most used method is a classical method of sewing

with thread and sewing machine. Basic sewing parameters are: machine stitches,

machine seams and sewing process.

Machine seams are made in the process of machine sewing by linear connection of

one stitch to the other, while binding and reinforcing the fabric parts. Quality seam

is:

Done with quality stitching

Reinforced on the beginning and end

Has specific length (density) of stitches

Has uniform width

Doesn’t deform the fabric

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Figure 29. Production process of seving clothes

3.1.4. TECHNOLOGICAL PROCESS OF FINISHING CLOTHES

Clothes finishing is the final technological phase in which the clothing item gets its

finished look and properties. It is divided in following activities:

Preparing of clothes for technological finishing process

Preparing of machines and equipment for technological finishing process

Final clothes pressing

Button sewing

Completing of clothes that consist of multiple parts

Clothes sorting

Final quality control

Packing

Transporting of made and packed clothes to a storage of finished goods

4. DEVELOPMENT OF NEW PRODUCTS INSPIRED BY SERBIAN AND

BULGARIAN CULTURAL HERITAGE

In development of a new product inspired by cultural heritage, combining of

traditional and contemporary elements must be considered. Time and space

boundaries are an important element in the relation of tradition and contemporary

fashion. Tradition is not observed as a distant element of the past, but as part of the

culture that adjusts to contemporary fashion.

The role of the designer in the new product development is based on two aspects of

research. First aspect of research relates to information gathering on materials,

trends, colors, etc. Second important aspect of research is related to analysis of

sociological and psychological moments and connection of fashion to this

phenomena.

Starting point of material research for creating a new product are characteristics of

materials that can be used for traditional Bulgarian and Serbian costume. The next

step in creation would be research of form and elements through the history of

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Bulgarian and Serbian traditional costume, the traditions of those times, which will

serve as inspiration for creating a new product.

Fashion product is the most complex element of marketing mix from the view of

fashion marketing managers. The task of marketing in clothing industry is to

constantly adapt products to the consumer demand. New clothing ideas are usually

developed in two ways:

By adapting existing products

By developing new products

Changes in fashion product market are faster and faster. In order to keep the

clothing industry concurrent on the market, it is necessary to make acceptable

clothes models available to customers at the right time and in the right place. This

means that complex activities of fashion designers, producers and market must be

harmonized. The most important segment in this process is of course completion

and turning in of the technical documentation for the new clothing item. Prior to

approving the idea solution or completing the technical documentation, it is

necessary to complete several activities such as: planning of the new product

development, determining the project assignment, defining the new product

development plan, making the idea solution, considering the idea solution,

approving the idea solution, making of the prototype, model verification and

production decision, decision on regular production after which completion and

turning in of the technical documentation is done.

Planning of development of new products or modification of existing products is

done annually, in the form of annual development plan consisting of following

segments:

Spring – summer

Autumn – winter

Additional collection (inputs of new products during mentioned seasons)

The basis for planning of development of new products or modification of existing

ones is the decision on preliminary product specifications relating to market

analysis or observed fashion trend tendencies.

Necessary document in developing new products is the annual plan of product

development which consists of data on planned product, all activities relating to its

development and fabric and delivery data for the new product.

Based on the annual development plan, the project assignment is created for product

development and that represents the activity of further concretization of annual plan

realization.

In the approach of the development of the completely new products, all the

necessary preparing tasks have to be done. Preparing is finished when the project

task for development is identified. In the approach of the modifying of the existing

products, it is necessary to deliver previous idea solutions and documentation

relating to that project.

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Project assignment for new product development is written on the adequate form

which needs to contain basic data on the number of new models in the collection,

the percentage of specific articles, job responsibilities, realization deadlines, etc.

Based on project assignment for product development detailed plan of product

development is defined, according to project assignment. If the assignment and plan

are determined, creating of idea solutions begins.

Idea solution creation is the main task of the creative team. Drawing of the solution

is done, or obtaining of the similar materials on the market, which are observed and

developed in order to get unique solutions. Designers need to respect the

functionality, color trends and market analysis when developing new models. Idea

solution is drawn on special form in the final phase. It is necessary to draw the

complete solution with all needed details (buttons, thread, package, etc.).

Based on idea solution documentation and market demands, decision is made on

accepting the idea solution. Based on idea solution acceptance decision, the order is

made to create a sample for producing sector, which is practically realized through

designer, who gives the order to the constructional preparation. If the idea solution

is not accepted, it is necessary to approach the making of the new idea solution.

The same procedure is followed for the modification of an old model, except in this

case in the documentation on idea solution, only changes done to a sample are being

highlighted.

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Picture 30. Diagram of the procedure of new product development

Based on the sample order and idea solution documentation provided to production

sector, the sample is made. Responsible personnel from the producing sector have

to follow the rules from the documentation but also suggest new way of production

if they think it will enable more efficient and better production, thus making the

production process easier and simpler. It is necessary to follow the making of

sample or the changing of existing one, if the existing product is being modified,

while paying attention to precise making deadline. Based on finished sample,

records are made.

Sample records and the sample itself are delivered for inspection to responsible

sectors. After reviewing the sample and examining its compliance to idea solution,

the decision is made, whether to return the sample to be redone or to approve the

regular production. Based on that the data on necessary materials is given and

materials are obtained according to existing procedure.

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Based on regular production order and according to precise deadlines, the work

order is made and all technical development documentation necessary for

production process is completed. From the moment of giving the work order, the

regular production process starts, according to defined procedure.

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5. WORKSHOPS

Motive

We live in a time of rapid adjustment to dynamic market conditions in the world,

i.e. in a period where the fashion trends are not only characteristics of various

seasons. That is why, the seasonal collections have lost its purpose. The trend

implies an increase in the number of collections that might eventually become the

continuous collections.

Creativity is not just the ability of expressing ideas, but it represents an energy of

feeling, which demonstrates the need for expression through creating a new design.

It is the energy that leads the designer in realizing his holistic idea, fashion

collection.

Collection designing is creating collection in accordance with rules based on the

analysis of fashion trends and appropriate production programs, and it aims to meet

the wishes of the target group of consumers that will be confirmed in the market

achieving the highest possible profit.

The fashion industry has to discover products that consumers need according to

their preferences. Here the fashion marketing comes. A word marketing but also a

market indicate the entire market mechanism, planning and coordination of

investment, production, sales and advertising in accordance with the market needs.

Schematic display of ideas and creativity as a business opportunity is presented in

Figure 31.

Figure 31. Schematic view of idea and creativity as business possibility

Taking into account the market demands in the strategic direction of the company,

special attention should be paid to create collection. Collection development in the

complex planning process, shaping, i.e. designing in the realization of new products

and / or their servicing in the market, we have to see the two parallel sides - one side

of the engineering work, and other of the economic affairs. On the engineering side,

we have the idea development, product manufacturing, detailed engineering work,

and on the business, i.e. economic side, we have the market research, marketing

analysis and product development trends.

45

Figure 32. Collection development

The Researches, development and engineering must be directed into the innovative

process of designing and creating new products. All functions must be mutually

aligned and each activity must participate in the achievement of high quality and

successful product.

The engineering approach must be based on a gradual, planned development, which

starts from the reliable concept and through the leadership and supervision of

development implements the whole technical development, which includes the

preparation of clothing patterns and the necessary technical - technological

documentation.

THE COLLECTION CONCEPT

The collection concept, which is obtained from the analysis of knowing market

conditions and knowing customer segment, is consisted of:

1. the variety of markets and consumers

2. the precisely defined target group

3. the analysis of competition

4. the sales concept

The diversity of markets and consumers plays an important role in designing /

creating the collection concept, as it is well known that there is no mediocre

consumer as there is no equal people.

Thus, it is necessary to see which approaches are the most effective and for which

target groups, as well as what are the needs, desires and expectations of certain

groups of customers, in order to easily customize products to their demands and to

communicate with them.

46

Task 1 In order to determine the target groups for which the future fashion collections are

intended, the items, written on paper pieces, were given to the workshop

participants. It needs to classify all items into 6 groups that should be considered

when defining the target group. Table 1 shows the items that should be classified

and the groups to which they belong.

Geographical Demographic Socio-

economic Behavior Psychographic Needs

Region Gender Education Consumer

participation Dressing style Caracteristics

Type of

settlement Age structure Income

Buying

frequency Lifestyle Advantages

Media

consumption

Number of

children Occupation Interests Benefits

Position in

society Activities Image

In the creating process of a new product, the designers invest a lot of effort and

activities to make their product of a better quality than the competition’s. In this

regard, all phases and activities of the design process in which the product is

created, have many the specificities that make it the special creativity. The product

as a design result, according to the demands of a modern consumer must have four

qualities, such as:

technical - functional

aesthetic

economic

ergonomic quality.

Figure 33. Required quality of clothnig product

The four individual qualities make the overall product quality, which is the basis of

its use and economic value. It can be said that the idea is a root of the future

47

product, that will arise from a mental and invisible category into something, that

will meet people's needs. Basically the idea is the foundation of future products, and

as it is more original, the product will be better and different from other products of

the same purpose.

At the beginning of new product creating, it is necessary to determine the macro

trend. It represents the great ideas, themes, tendencies and inspirational beginning

of conceptual thinking and fashion collection creating. In this case, our macro trend

or our themes are the motifs of the cultural heritage of Bulgaria and Serbia. The

ethnic motifs and traditional costumes are starting inspiration for creating a fashion

collection.

The figure 34 and 35 shows an example of inspiration whose theme is the cultural

heritage. Inspirations are taken from a database that deals with the analysis and

forecasting of future fashion trends.

Figure 34. Inspiration of cultural heritage

Figure 35. Inspiration of cultural heritage

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Task 2

The ethno motifs of Bulgaria and Serbia as well as the motifs of traditional

costumes are given to the participants. Based on these figures, the workshop

participants are tasked to find the inspiration for their own collection. The

participants are divided into 5 groups and within teamwork they should come to the

conceptual design. Some of the materials, that the workshop participants have

received, are shown in Figure 36 and 37.

Figure 36. Ethno motives of Bulgarian

Figure 37. Ethno motives of Serbs

49

FASHION DRAWING

The model silhouettes in the fashion drawings are usually elongated and slender. A

characteristic of the drawings in fashion design is an attitude that silhouette / model

has, as on the catwalk thus in the drawing of the future model. There are two most

common ways of representing the model: model in a standing peaceful position and

cat walking model.

Figure 38. Fashion drawing

Task 3 After the inspiration is successfully made and the discussions with the workshop

participants, the phase of making fashion drawings comes. The workshop

participants are divided into five groups. Each group has its own inspiration. Based

on it, each participant has a task to make 5 fashion drawings. Each person of the

group chooses one his own representative fashion drawing. Based on these

representative drawings, one group representative, through mutual consultation and

agreement with the other group members, has the task to draw a fashion drawing,

which will have the elements of all selected representative drawings of the other

group participants.

THE COLLECTION TIMING

The collection timing is divided into:

- Determination of the collection approximate terms, which are related to fair

exibitions

- Determination of the date when the collection will be launched

- Weekly time draft of collection development, for example:

ordering material coupons or material samples and details

making sketches

coupons arrival

Making clothing patterns

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Final prototype making i.e. the first samples making

collection approval

starting serial production.

DEVELOPING TECHNICAL SKETCH OF MODEL

The technical sketch of a model, as opposed to fashion drawing, must contain all the

details ( gussets, holes, buttons, seams, pleats, pockets, etc.) and must accurately

display, because based on this sketch, a garment will be constructed and modeled.

In addition to the technical sketch, an accompanying description is given in order to

better define the model.

Task 4 The workshop participants make the technical sketch of model for their

representative fashion drawing, with all the details and give a detailed description of

the model.

Figure 39. Comparation of fashion drawing and technical draing

TECHNICAL COLLECTION DEVELOPMENT

The process of the collection making is carried out in several stages. It consists of

determining basic elements, for example: the collection size, terms of the basic

patterns, the collection making and data transmission of model in a computer, which

is done by simulating different models in different colors on the sample, to the

construction of cutting model parts, making tailoring patterns, the selection of

technological equipment and processing time.

There is a garment document that accompanies the product through all its stages of

production. It contains the information about the size range, colors and patterns, the

information about the base material and the material that is incorporated.

Task 5

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After the technical sketches are done, the workshop participants work on a garment

document. An unfulfilled garment document is given to the participants where they

should enter the information about their own model and should give a brief

description of the essential model characteristics and the colors elaboration.

Figure 40. Blank component list

Task 6

Based on the garment document and technical model sketch, the workshop

participants work in groups to develop a operating sheet of model that they have

done together within the previous tasks. An unfulfilled garment document is given

to everyone where the operations of garment making are written as well as the work

equipment and machines that are used for each operation. The workshop

participants for each stage of garment making, determine the work equipment based

on the offered examples of machines.

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An ordinary sewing machine Special sewing machine - double needle

lockstitch

Special sewing machine 4-thread -

overlock

Special sewing machine 5-thread - iberdek

Automatic holes making machine Automatic button attaching machine

Steam iron

Figure 41. Sewing machines and equipment for ironing

PLAN DEVELOPING FOR TECHNOLOGICAL PROCESS

To create a technological processes plan, the following expressions are required to

calculate data:

The required number of workers in the production unit, if the daily capacity is

known, will be calculated using the formula:

53

r

d

T

tCR 1

where: Cd – the daily capacity in pieces

t1 – the developing time of the product unit (seconds, minutes or hours)

Tr – the daily working time per the product unit (seconds, minutes or hours)

The daily capacity of the production unit, if the number of workers, will be

calculated as follows:

1t

RTC r

d

or

G

TC r

d

where: G – are the tact groups (seconds, minutes or hours)

The daily capacity per one worker is calculated as follows:

R

CC d

dr

The daily capacity of the work operation is determined by:

1t

TC r

dn

where: t1 – the developing time for a certain work operation.

The tact group represent the planned optimal time to carry out the technological

operations in workplace. In the textile industry it is used to determine the workplace

load, and it will be calculated as:

R

tG 1 or

d

r

C

TG

The amount of work funds is calculated by its type:

r

srdsr

T

tCK

where: Ksr - is the amount of work funds,

tsr - the developing time for a specific type of work funds

Daily fond of working time is determined by:

RTT rdf or D

TT

g

df

where: Tdf – is the daily fund of working time

Tg – the annual fund of working time

D – the number of working days in a year.

The annual fund of working time is determined in the following manner:

DRTT rg ili DTT dfg

54

The degree of the workplace load in %:

10010

G

tS

The degree of productivity in %:

1001 ef

pt

tS

where: tef – is the effective working time.

Effective working time (in seconds, minutes or hours):

1001 p

efS

tt

Task 7 Based on the operating sheet, the workshop participants have to calculate all the

necessary information for the development plan of technological process for the

production of 150 clothing pieces. The daily working time is 7.5 hours.

THE CAD SYSTEM APPLICATION. The technical development effect of the

collection depends on the quality of implemented ideas, tailoring cuttings

developing and detailed engineering. In this important role have the personal

support systems: computer aided design and planning CAD,

computer aided manufacturing CAM, computer providing quality CAQA , data

management system for the production PDM and a system for planning and

controlling production PPS . All these systems enable the flexible development of

fashion collection manufacturing.

Task 8

Students who are the participants of the workshop have the task to use the

ornaments from traditional costumes from Serbia and Bulgaria as a inspiration and

implement them in the modern models. Time allotted for this task is 2 hours.

C-DESIGN Fashion is an ideal solution for creating a fashion collection. Very

precise and powerful professional tools, clear and comprehensive interface and

advanced features allows time saving as well as the full expression of creativity.

This program is designed for professionals in the field of fashion design, as well as

for industries engaged in producing fashion collections. In this program can

sketched and designed the various items of clothing, with the possibility of a quick

and easy changing the patterns of garments. There is also the possibility of making

certain patterns of textile materials that can be applied to sketched patterns of

garments.

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The software in its database contains over 10 000 different garments and elements,

for men, women and children. The base has facilities of clothing: pants, skirts,

shirts, dresses, jackets ...; over accessories to elements such as zippers, buttons,

buckles, pockets. In Figure 42 shows an example is given from a female silhouette

program. Figure 43 shows technical drawing.

Figure 42: Vector base of finished elements and display its contents

.

Figure 43: Technical Drawing

Task 9

Participants of the workshop will be tasked to cut through women's skirts, using the

table for digitization imported into the program Optitex, and then make the

modeling of the basic cut of women's skirts. The plan is to do 5 models skirts on the

basic cut. It takes 2 hours to complete the task.

Optitex is a leading provider for 3D Virtuanih prototype of garments and 2D CAD /

CAM software solutions for garment, automotive, aerospace and upholstery

industries. Optitex provides to these industries innovative and simple solutions for

problems that arise in modern manufacturing processes. The advantages of use of

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software in the textile industry, such as Otitex, reflected in significantly lower

production costs, gain some time on the market, which increases the

competitiveness.

Optitex software is designed to possess a number of tools that can be very simple

and effective way to make the construction of garments, modeling already existing

patterns of garments, perform grading and making cutting layout. Figure 44 shows

an example of construction of men's shirts in Optitex.

Figure 44: Construction of of men's shirts in Optitex

In the apparel industry, there is often a need to produce a model of garment in more

sizes. In Optitex, we can specify as much clothing sizes as we want and we need,

and then by entering a certain value in the grading table we get bigger and smaller

sizes. Example of grading is shown in Figure 45.

The program has a widget, and it is a special progam, Marker, designed to create

cutting layouts. In this program, we first define the width and length of the material

and the number of layers, and then import the desired garment cuts and define the

sizes we want to put the cutting layoutsas well as which cut parts can be laid in the

opposite direction. The program has the possibility to make a schedule of cutting

parts on cutting layout, and that we can also do it ourselves. During shifting of each

cutting parts on cutting layout, we can see how much the use of cutting layout.

Figure 46 shows an example of cutting layout in Marker.

57

a

b

c

Figure 45: a) A method of grading by entering values of a certain size in the

grading table, b) defining desired sizes and a base size, c) An example of a

graded garment

Figure 46: Creating cutting layout in Marker

58

6. REFERENCES:

1. V. Petrović, J.Stepanović, M.Stanković, M. Reljić, S.Stefanović:Savremena

kretanja u tekstilnoj i odevnoj industriji u Evropi, Menadžment, Inovacije, Razvoj, Volume 8, No.1, str. 83 - 89, (2013). UDK005, ISSN 1452-8800.

2. http://www.wgsn.com/ - pristupljeno 03.03.2014. 3. http://www.lectra.com/ - pristupljeno 07.03.2014. 4. http://www.juki.co.jp/ - pristupljeno 11.03.2014. 5. http://www.optitex.com/ - pristupljeno 18.03.2014. 6. http://www.balkanfolk.com/ - pristupljeno 22.03.2014. 7. http://www.ethnonetwork.com/ pristupljeno 27.03.2014. 8. V. Petrović: European Textile Platform for the Future of clothing and Textile,

Regional Textile conference "Sustainable development of the Textile Industry in Republic of Macedonia", Ministry of Economy of Republic of Macedonia in cooperation with Faculty of Technology and Metallurgy, University "Ss. Cyril and Methodius", 04 - 05 October, 2012., Skopje, Macedonija, (rad objavljen u Zborniku radova u elektronskoj formi).

9. D.Rogale, D.Ujević, S.F.Rogale, M.Hrastinski: Procesi proizvodnje odjeće, 2011, Tekstilno - Tehnološki fakultet Univerziteta u Zagrebu.

10. V.Petrovic, M. Stanković, I. Skoko, A.Zdravković, S.Stefanović: Optimization of cutting patterns using CAD system, Obщotekstilna konferenciя’2012, „Inovacii v tekstila i oblekloto, oktobar 2012, Sofiя, Bulgaria.

11. M.Vinković: Likovno projektiranje odjeće, Tekstilno – tehnološki fakultet, Zagreb, 1999.

12. M. Vasiljević: Dizajn, Fakultet za dizajn, Beograd, 2005. 13. M. Stanković, V.Petrović, A.Zdravković, I.Skoko: Izrada tehničke dokumentacije

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22. V.Petrović, J.Stepanović, D.B-Popov, M.Reljić: Optimizacija izrade krojnih slika upotrebom CAD sistema, Naučno-stručni skup Efikasnost u privredi 2008, 04-05.04.2008.,Vrnjačka Banja, (štampan u elektronskoj formi).

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