my simple life in new zealand by adela stewart

\ I

A FACSI?fiLE EDITiON

PRINTED AND PUBLISHED

BY

WILSON & HORTON LTD. QUEEN STREET, AUCKLAND

NEW ZEALAND

TITLES IN THIS SERIES Old New Zealand F. E. Maning Our Maoris Lady Martin Station Life in New Zealand Lady Barker Station Amusements in New Zealand Lady Barker Murihiku R. McNab PoenaolO 1. L. Campbell Narrat ive of a Voyage to New Zealand I. L. Nicholas Adventure in New Zealand E. I. Wakefield Auckland, the Capital of New Zealand W. Swainso

nStirring Times of Te Rauparaha W. T. L Travers My Simple Life in New Ze aland Adela Stewart Yesterdays in Maoriland Andreas Reischek

A B

My SIMPLE

IN

LIFE

NEW ZEALAND.

ADELA

BY

B. STEWART.

WITH ILLUSTRATIONS.

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LONDON:

ROBERT BANKS

RACQUET COURT. FLEET

19 0 8.

& SON,

STREET, E.C.

CONTE N TS.

8 78 . PAGE

Three m on th s' voyage from Belfast to Auckland .,.

T o T auranga by Government SS. H rnemoa . ..

First . in;p ress io ns of Kati Ka t! ... . . . ' "

H ou se-building at Atheuree Maori n eighbours ...

1879. Init ial garden a nd orchard Torrents of rain Our first visi tors A wedding at Moun t Stewart

, The Crown Lands Ranger's vi sit . . .

Bre ad -m aking Loss of sheep by dr owning Our first picnic . . , .. .

1830. ' Kati Ka ti R aces . .. F ire a t Mount Stewart ... Visit Irorn th e Han. Wil liam

Rolleston, Minister for Lands ...

Vi s it from P roperty Tax Collector .. . . ..

8

Church Services in our homes 50 Farm-cadets ... ... .. . 51 Country road-making and

bridge-building 5Z A dentist ca lls 53

1881. The Lady Jocelyn com es to

T auranga ... ... 54 Te Puke Settlem ent began 54 Bee-keeping. .. .. . ." 56 Mervyn walks or ride. daily

to sch ool seven miles off 57

12 1Firs t ea rthqnake... ... 67 Mo onl ight pi cnic on W aihi

14 Be ach . " .. . ... 68 15 l O ur dr ive to Tauranga .. , 69 .23 1Next day to R otorua ... 69

The following to Whakarewar ewa a nd Wairoa 70

27 Lake T arawera .. . 7° 27 Pink an d white terraces 70 28 Open ing of W aihi G old . 32 Bat tery . . . .. . ... 72

A scent of Mount Hikurangi 73 33 1883.3536 1 Vis it from my ste p-fa ther 37 I from home ... . .. 76

W a ihi town growing .. . 76 Mail - coach, Tauranga to

44 1 Thames, st a r ts . . .. . 76 44 Took Mervyn to Church of

En g land Gr ammar Sch ool, Auckland ... 77

45 I Snow visible On the Ran ges 82

47

188 2 . PAGE

Visit from my br other in In di a . 64

Our firs t ball 65

1884. Te Ko ofi's visit 84 Hop-beer making ... , ... 85 Kati Kat; Cheese Facto ry

opened ... 88

1885. Irish cousins' visit . .. . .. 90 First Kati Kati fair a nd

ca tt le sa le ... .. . 9 1

Hugh is ' appointed a J.P. .. . 9 2

Vi sit from the Bish op of Au ckl and and Mrs. Cowie . . . .. . . .. 95

iv CONTENTS.

1886. PAGlI:I PAGK Atbenree Separator butter-

School at Athenree op ened 96 I making . . . ... . . . 3 Volcanic er~pt~on in Hot I 1893 12

Lakes D,str,ct... .. 97 • Volcanic dn st benefits Our English friends visit us

land '" ... 98 Another dentist calls 1"4 A Circus Company calls 99 Smoke-house on fire IlI5

1::6Kati Kati Vicar arrives 100 . 1894.

1887. A fancy dress ball '" •.. 126 A pig-hunt ... '" .. . 1 0~ Wreck of SS. Wairarapa off HOmeMaij viaSa n F ra nci sco ' Great Barrier Island ... 1::9I

comes in thirty-seven 1895. days '" '" '" 103 M fi .

Fete Cham petre at Athenree 104 I Y rst drawIng - room Spring-cleaning in the Anti~ . baza a~ ... '" ' ..

129

podes 10 4 CIder making '" ' .. 9Waterwork~" de st~~yed 'by Another trip to A~ckland 12

floods of rain... .. . loB f ~r medIcal .advIce ' .. 130 Our silver we d dIng .. . ... 13 11888. Visi ons of Electric Works at

Easywayofwashingclothes 109 Athenree ' " . .. 13 Trip to AU~kland for medi- 1896. 1

cal adVIce .. . .. . 10 /9

Variou s visitors .. . '" 1]21889. My larder ro bbe d ' " '" 133

Unsuccessful attempt to se ll Waihi Gold Mining Com-Athenree ... .. . III pa ny Machinery en route

Return home in a n ope n to Waih. .. , . boat on a wet ni ght 114 R ot oru a Maoris ca mp on 133

P each-wine m akin~ 113 Mervyn' s lan d ... Candied-peel mak tng 114 7 134

rVisitfromGen. Strange,R.A.115 1 189 . Ala rming bu sh fire.. .. . 1341890 I fl . . 6• • I n uenza VIS itS us '" ' " 13

Hugh appoi nted P ostmaster Tree-planting on Jubilee at Athenree ... II6 Da y , .. 136

Vinegar ma king. .. 117 Hu gh has shingles 136

1891 Accli matisation So~iety sen d • ' t ro u t fo r Our rrv er ... 137H ouse supplied with w ater I

by hydraulic ram . .. II 8 1898. Tomato sauce makin g '" r r S I engage a Ma ori girl to help Poultry farming... . .. I~o I w it h th e wor k... '" 13

8F irs t la dy cycl ist 's vi sit ' " 13 81892. At Ka ti Ka t i F lo wer Show

Smok e-honse

for fish .. . r z r I I win prizes... ... 138 Disastrou s boating ac ciden t I ~ Z Fi rst r ailw ay survey, Waihi Visit from W a ih i Miners' t o Athenree ... 14

1Band... ' " .. . 143 An a larmi ng pl ou ghman 141

CONTENT S. v

PAGE I 1903. Vis i t from Mr. Bn ucher; P.l, GE

Go vern ment Vine In ~ 'I First motor car ca lled ... 176 , . spec to r .. . ... .. . 14:J I-I.E. L ord Ran furl y 's

Vis i t from Government P ost Veterans' H om e ope ned 177 Office Ins pect or .. . 143 \ \Va ih i H osp i tal ope ned .. . 178

1899 Farewell Ball a t G overn men t H h :. H on se, Auckland .. . 179

ug ar;d .Mervy n d~ne wI ~ h I Taura nga, w , i h i , and \V a~lll Vo lun Leers In , other Volunteer s in ca m p t heir Camp ... .. . 143 1 at Kati Ka ti 183

Mervyu's elec to ral ca m pa ig n 14+ 1904 .. . ... H .E. L or d R anfurly's first .

visit .. . . .. . .. 145 , Os tr ic? fa rm a t Ka.ti Ka t i The Mayor 01 Anckland's Vi cara ge... .. . 185

vi sit .. . ... : .. 147 My last ball at Ath enree ... 187 T he Premie r, Right H on. Help hop eless, deter mi ned

Ri cha rd J. Se ddon 's to sell . .. .. . . .. 187 vis it ... . .. '" 147 1905.

The war in S. A. fills our M 11 t . th • I any ca ers 0 vi ew e th oughts .. . . .. 148 0per ty .. . I 88pr ...

1900. Narro w escape in a qn ick -, Ano ther a larm ing fire 148 sa nd .. . .. . .. 190

P r olonged drough t 149 I o pen e~ <l;'Chnrch ba za ar in A London mi ll iuer ca lls 149 ,:V~lLllI . .. .. . . . ... 19 1 A t hen ree becomes a Hospi tal r so SOiree III uu nour of t h ir t ie th

anniversa ry of KatiKat i 1901. Se ttlement ... .. . 19::

An hour's res t a t noon on O pe ni ng of W aihi to Au ck Q ueen Victoria's fu neral la nd railway .. . ... 193 day.. . ... ... ·153 1906

1'1.1:. . Lor d R an furly's second . V'~ l t .. . . .. .. . ISS H .E. L ord . P lunke t laid

T r ip to Auck la nd lor Royal fou r;d,ahon sto ne of new reception . .. 156 f • W a.,lll Chmc? : . . .. 193

Revi ew of T roop s .. . 16~ I I WIn prrzes a t W alh. Flower Lunch on board H.M.S. Show ......... 194

Pe ng ui» ... .. . 163 Atheur~e Fren ch Club opened r o.; Visit of office rs of H.M.S. Last tr ip ~o Taura ng a 195

Pe ngllin for Survey work 166 Athenree IS so ld .. . 196 I''

Waihi Farewell Social a nd 1902. I Presentat ion to us .. . 198

Kati Kati Butter F actory Our departure . . .. , 199 o pened . .. .. . ... 167 Auckl and, Gisborne, N apier,

O ur Vicar hold s Snnday Hastings ... .. . zoo Se rvice s a t a neighbou r- Wellington, Christ ch urch, ing Sc hoo l... .. . 170 Lyttelton ... ... 200

I det er mine to provide an R.M.S. Tnraki?la-pleasant organ.. . ... .. . 170 voyag e . .. .. . . .. ..00

Su cceed in doin g so a fter Monte Video a nd T eneriff e 2 00

a no ther bazaar . .. 173 i Safe home .. . ... ... zo r

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

Face page

Extra Title

Portrait of Author ... '" ... ... Frontispiece

Rough Sketch of Country Adjacent to At.henree 9

Athenree House and Post Office ._- --- 116

123

Tauranga, from the Redoubt ... ... . 12

Bullock Team in the Bush ... .•. ,. . 69

Wairoa Bridge between Kati Kati and Tauranga 69

Typical Bush Scene ... ... .... .., .., 76

Main Street, Waihi, showing Martha Hill 76

Scene at Athenree

My F lower Garden, Athenree, N.Z. 174

Orange Grove, Athenree 188

Athenree ... 19°

Athenree, New Zealand I¢

PREFACE.

ON my return horne after twenty-eight years of pioneer-work in New Zealand, I have had the pleasure of meeting many relations and old friends and of making still more new acquaintances, who, nearly all , seem interested in my adventures. Some say, "We should 50 much like to go to New Zealand." " Why? II I, who have been there, inquire. "To lead the Simple Life." "Listen to a page from my diary -an unbroken record of my life." Then I discover that some do not even know where New Zealand is-think it is in Australia. Others picture themselves landing in canoes, resting in a perfect climate under palms and other trees, opening their mouths for the ripe fruit to drop into! When tolJ of a pr osaic six weeks' voyage by steamer, or as in earlier days three or four months by sailing ship, and of the daily hum-drum routine of farm-life, often without help, they calm down. Some want to know more. Many have said, "Do write a book." Therefore, with the hope of helping and interesting other women, I send out these plain, unvarnished notes from my diary, which I myself have only now found time to read.

k<V~••~1]!I~

SIMPLE LIFE IN NEWZEALAND.

ORN in Clifton, educate d in Paris and in Ryde, I spent th e following years pleasantly in E ngland, Scotland, Ireland, and the Cha nnel

Isl inds. La ter , having married Lieute nant Hugh Stewart, l<.A., W~ were in Woolwich, Shoeburyness,

osport, Medi terranean, West Indies, Ber muda, a nd Southsea, thoroughly enj Dying the life and ch anges flf scene an d socie ty. In 1878, by t he advice of

V. S. (H ugh 's brother), we went out to New Zea land . Our ship was the L ady J ocelyn, of 4, 000 tons burthen , sail ing from Belfas t on May aoth, W e had 011 board about thre e hundred and seventy-eight

.sengers, including H ugh's parents, aged respecively seventy-eight and eighty-eight, two Generals,

Major, two or th ree Captains and Lieutenan ts, ' a Canon, a D octor, no end of pretty girl s and fine young men-s-bound for Kati Kati Settlement. Wewere acc ompanied by our only child, Mervyn (seven years old) and L ou-a daughter of a dear friend, the Rector

'w ho had married us, and wh o pr oved an invalua ble he lp to us. Soon aft er we settled sh e got marr ied .

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Ab out six miles 10 the inch,

8 MY SIMPLE LIFE IN NEW ZEALAND. r878

We had as servants a man and his wife, Joe and Sarah M., whose passages we paid, and in addition to £80 wages kept their three children, one of whom was born a month after we landed. These servants were useful at first, but experience proved that the colonial born and bred adapts himself better to his surroundings, especially in the country, than does a servant from home.

To return to the voyage. It took us a few days to get settled in Our cabins, without the help of stewards, thus preparing us for the practical work of a quarter of a century which lay before us. Our cabins were very small, therefore overcrowded with the furniture supplied by an outfittsr.. Our SOD'S bed consisted of a three-foot wooden tray nailed up across one end of the cabin; he, being a very big boy for his age, could not lie down in it, so when I remonstrated with the Ship-owners, they sent their carpenter, who lowered the tray, and lengthened it by a foot. The result was that its end rested on my husband's berth, somewhat cramping him at night! _

Although at first the wind was fair, and we sailed roo to 200 miles a day, the sea was sometimes rough, and several days passed before we all mustered at meals.

In a week it was very calm and hot, shady hats came out, much music and .talk of concerts, dances, etc. An awning covered the deck, and the Lady Jocelyn put on her" fine weather clothes."

One of our special settlement party, the Irish Canon, regularly held services on Sunday in the saloon.

Our boy, who had hitherto worn Highland dress, began to complain of the heat, so I made him a

1878 MY SI MPL E LIFE IN NEW ZEALAND. 9

holland suit, that alon e being quite sufficient, as we ere at the end of our second week in the tropics,

nearly becalmed, with six. vess els in sight~als o a hale. Our special printer issued the first numbers of the

" Lady Jocelyn Herald," whi ch created great excite ment, but not as great as was caused by an alarm of sm all -pox, which cut us off entirely from th e steerage and our serv ants. By the doctor's ord ers we all wore camphor in bags round our necks; the doctor for a week put himself in quarantine, and then declared the ship " clean," but we 'never heard what had really hap pened, whether small-pox or heat-spots!

One very hot, ' calm day, our ears were greeted by a tiuy baby's cry, announ cing the birth of a little-girl - 10celyn, of course.

Next day we had torrents of rain, whi ch coo led he <I ir, and filled every bucket and can in the ship,

besides ena bling every man on board to have a goo d shower-bath al fr esco.

All these days, instead of going on to New Zealand, we were turning back towards America! On June zoth, we crossed the Line without ceremony, except that the Captain orde red champagne for th e saloon a nd grog for the rest. About this time one or two antic ipat ed engagements were announced, being the occasion for cheery congratulations.

T be weather changed t o cold and wet, and the fireless saloon was unattractive, so that many wh o felt again the horrors of mal-de-mer stopped in bed. Just below the Cape of Good Hope on July r rth, we had snow, heavy hailstorms, tremendous lurch es, and crashes in the saloon, followed next day by closing of sky-lights, so that we were in darkness, the Captain stating that we were on the edg-e of a

10 MY SIMPLE LIFE IN N ZE AL I\ t-r D . 8,,8

cyclone; a great sea swept over us, through sky-lights in to the saloon, swamping many cabins, h.' lOcking oyer ma ny passengers, who fortunately were more frig htened than hurt, and creating havoc amongst the crockery, so that for the rest of t he voyage our sup ply was so limited that each salo on passen ger took possession of a drinking vessel. I1ugh 's was a soda water tumbler, my vis a vi s had a sauce-boat, mine was a breakfast cup; and thus armed in harlequin fashion we carried them to and from our cabins. Our tablecloth grew dirtier and dirtier, until at last it attracted the Captain's olfactory nerves, and he ordered the steward to put down a clean one. Our dinner table was cleared, another cloth was produced, then another from the sideb oard drawer, each one worse than the last, and eventually we had to ' put up with the first. There were only three provided on each table for the voyage. We rejoiced when told on that day, July rSth, we had made our best run2g8 miles.

After this we had a great deal of rain, and time hung rather heavily; th en mumps took possession of the passengers all over the ship, causing discomfort to the sufferers, and ill-concealed mirth at their ap pearance from those who fortunately escap ed.

Next came the drawing of sweepstakes for date of our arrival in Auckland. My ticket was August 13th, and should have won, but the Fates willed otherwise.

One Sunday after services, a collection amounting to £5 lOS. 6d. was made for Kati Kati Church.

On August 14th we began packing up, having caught our first glimpse for over twelve weeks of land - Three Kings' Island. This was celebrated by a cheery dance on deck. The next days were spent

. 1878 MY SIMPLE LIFE IN NEW ZEALAND. II

most tantalisingly dodging about the Poor Knights' Isles, but on th e 17th things improved; and between I and 2 p.m, the pilot, Captain Burgess, came on board. Many more .officials, newspaper reporters, etc., crowded on when after dinner (at about 5 p.m.) we dropped anchor in Auckland Harbour, about a mile from the shore, thankful that our ninety days' voyage was safely over. How we devoured letters from home, though not much more greedily than New Zealand fresh bread and butter!

The following day, Sunday, we went ashore in a boat, and felt no peculiar sensations on landing, except disappointment at the poor state of Auckland 's streets and houses. That was thirty years ago. We went to morning service at St. Paul's, of barn-like appearance. Then, as had been our pract ice at home, we took a turn, instead of looking for dinner at once, as we found to our cost we should have done, when we knocked at hotel doors, and were told we were "too late." \Ve have always elt grateful to our pilot for directing us to Harbour

View, where the landlady, herself only three months landed, took pity on us forlorn" new chums," and her "help" being out, herself cooked for us some chops and potatoes. We felt quite overpowered. by her kindness, at once engaged rooms for a week, and offered to take her on board the Lady Jocelyn to try and get a servant. By this time the wind had got up, and no boatman would take us back to our ship until nearly dark, when one consented OQ. payment of IS. a head, and so overcrowded the boat that we were in danger of sinking. However, our landlady got a servant, so she was rewarded.

Friends from home came on board next day to greet us; they, having had three months in Auckland,

12 MY SIMPLE LIFE IN NEW ZEALAND. 1878

were enthusiastic in its praise, saying that, winter as it was, there was sunshine every day; overlooking the fact that it was then raining, with such hai l-showers that the ground was white for a time-a contrast to great camellia trees in full bloom in our landlady's garden. We felt miserable, tried to laugh, as we said to one another; "We don't like New Zealand, but the climate makes up for everything l " and then our landlady pelted us with hail balls.

We explored the town, visiting an ironmonger who supplied us with tomahawks, spades, cooking apparatus, and all sorts of novelties. Our enthusiast ic English friends invited us to dine with them in Parnell, a pretty suburb. The entertainment was a revelation-no servants, one daughter acting cook, the other as waitress, in the most unobstrusive,' capable manner: There was a third guest-a French lady-invited to meet us who love talking French. '

Having been informed that .the Government steamer Hitiemoa would convey the Kati Kati settlers free to Tauranga, Bay of Pleu1.y, on Wednesday, we packed up, paid a week's bill, £4 lOS. for two days , and after much trouble, changes of boats through torrents of rain, we got on board the Hinemoa, and had a good twelve hours' passage to Tauranga, arriving there ona sunny morning at II o'clock.

The whole population, white and coloured, crowded out to meet us; such an invasion was unparalleled in New Zealand history. Our shipmates were mutely frightened, and their children most audibly so, at the sight of tattooed Maoris smiling Tena koe (" Welcome") and anxious to rub noses. How the children did howl and try to hide behind their parents, themselves bewildered by the novelty of the scene!

We heard a gentleman enquiring for a "small

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family wanting a furn ished cottage," and at once stepped forward, landed, and took the cottage, a

ur-roomed wooden one next door to his , I2S . 6d. a reek and [ 18 5s. for furnitu re, whi ch included some

coals, firewood and pota toes. Our new frieud having settled matters wi th some undesirable neighbours the previous day, he and his charming wife gave us dinner and tea. Then we unpacked ship's bedding, etc .

L ou cook ed sa usages for supper; our servants and "all steerage passengers had been left in Auckland a waiting quarters here. W e felt quite at hom e wh en we awoke in bright sunshine, and had friends to early dinner of roast sirlo in, admirably cooked by L ou (wh om I worshipped as a genius) in .a "Colonial oven," a sort of iron box with wood-fire und er and over it.

The T auranga Manager of th e National Bank of New Z ealand, of which we were all clients, took us and many ot her new sett lers in several carriages and four for a drive right across country innocent of roads, and covered with undergrowth of scrub, fern, and t ea-tree, an aro matic plant with tiny white flowers resembling myrtle. T o our host's amusement (he being a New Z ealander) we begged to gather some.

"You'll kn ow enough about tea-tree in a few weeks, " sympatheti cally said he; and so we did, for it covered most of our land, was good for nothing but firewo od, and after clearing, burning, plou ghing and cropping, cam e up again and again from seed.

On Sunday we went to Trinity Church, and enjoyed the service, but did not profit by th e parson's advice, "Take care of your money, all you new , settlers; it' s your best earthly friend."

W e sent our boy to a day-school, where the other little boys were so pleased with his Highland dress

I4 MY SIM.PLE LIF E IN NEW ZEALA ND. r878

that they tried to spoil it by throwing one bonnet aft er anothe r int o a neighbouring pond, and giving the poor new chum altogethe r such a bad time that

is father had to th reate n the youn g Colo nials with a cane.

Our first d inne r-pa rty was at th e hous e of friends who attempted too mu ch. Candles stood in black bottles barely concealed by ivy, a nd th e entree , oyst er patties, appea red afte r dessert!

W e had many visit ors, all kind and pleasant, but the ladies worn-lookin g, and seemingly lon ging for news from" hom e " a nd th e lat est fashions.

An obje ct for our wal ks was t o call at cottages where we saw garde ns and vegetables, and ask the owners to sell us some, so anxious were we for ca bbag-e, lettuce and suchlike, after our three months'

. abstinence. Ne xt came prepa ra t ion s for a grand Masonic Ball,

to which th e new settle rs were invited, and wh en all was over asked to pay a guinea each !

"But we were getting impati ent to see our future homes, so on Septe mber 3rd we had breakfast at seven, and on a lovely but cold morning assembled on Tauranga wharf, and by th e steame r Staff a start at eight for Kati Kati ; we passed Mount Maunganu i and Karewa Is land , and so, afte r three hours' steam, arrive at Mount Stewart , G. V. S., our leader's home. It presented a very ba rn- like appearance, being an un finish ed wooden structure. We t ook a walk over Wild, un cultivated, undul ating land, feeling home-sick and depressed, also hungry. 'vVe ret raced our st eps to enjoy, at the appointed hour, th e dinner t o which we had been bidden, but found the steamer just starting, and as the tide was receding, men carried us into small boats , pushed us from them

15M.Y SIMPLE LIFE IN NEW ZEALAND.1878

into the steamer. We had a cold return journey, and were most thankful to get back to our Tauranga cottage and beefsteak pie.

Most unexpected housekeeping difficulties cropped up. Having decided to have curry and rice and tapioca custard for dinner, we went to the grocer's.

"A lem on , please." Blank dismay on man 's face. "There's only one tree in T auranga; belongs to

Mr. X.," which suited us, as the gentleman and his wife had called on us the day before. So we returned the visit, and were shown the tree in full

bea ring." 3d. each, or 2S. 6d. a dozen," and we were too

shy to proffer 3d. In course of years that shyriess

quite wore off l Such to rr ents of rain fell frequently, altern ating

with bri ght sunshine, that we scarely knew what to think of the exaggerat ed accounts of the climat e that we had been furnished with at home.

There is a pretty old cemetery near T auranga, in rd, which are buried many soldiers of the 68th, 43

and other RegIments, kill ed in 1864. Ou r man having "helped Hugh to add to our

cottage a room, which he and his wife occupied, she there pr esented him with their third child and first son; and here let me mention that this room added 25 per cent. to the value of th e house-r ent when our

time was up. On Sepfember 25th Hugh went off in a sa iling-

boat to Kati Kati to see our land, purchased " fro~ G.V.S. H e was away four days, and came back at midnight, reserving his opinion of our future home.

On Michaelmas Day, for dinner, instead of a goose with apple sauce, we had green peas and a forequarter of lamb, the first of the season, costing 5S

•

- very dear, when mutton was only rd. or ad. per lb.

17 r6 MY SIMPLE LIFE IN NEW ZEA I.Ar.:o. 1878

Some of these late September days were very sunny and bright, but mornings and evenings so cold that a fire was most enjoyable. Lou was confined to bed for many days .witb a severe cold. We explored the country round Tauranga, returned visits, and hunted for flowers-very scarce-and vegetables, and at last got some asparagus, a great treat. A friend gave us some guiUemots' eggs, which we fried for breakfast; some ate them, but their smell satisfied me!

Hugh and his man were now very busy in Gray's timber-yard, preparing boards for our future stables. One day our kitchen chimney caught fire; very dangerous when roofs were made of wooden shingles. However, it was promptly smothered with wet sacks by a fisherman and a Maori, whom we asked to dinn er, tb e latter making himself understood to our servant, a Welsh woman.

By th e end of October the weather got warmer, 70° inside and 92° in the sunny verandah; so sea bathing, boating, and cricket became popular

On November znd Hugh, with our servants, and their three children, beds, bedding, provisions, nggage, st arted from T own wharf in steam-launch

Buena Ventura for Bo wentown, intending to call i at Mount St ewart for the night, the sta ble's timber follo wing in a sailing-boat Catherine. Thus Lou and I were left to do all our own work, and very

usy we were, washing clothes, cooking, scrubbing, etc. On 6th, by return trip of th e Catherine, I got a letter from Hugh, giving an account of Saturday's journey; how he and party had to walk four miles across country, fern and scrub, from the Uretara township to Mount Stewart, letting the man pull ronnd in the boat they had towed from Tauranga,

MY SIMPLE LI,fE IN NEW ZEALAND.r~78

and carry them in it to a ruinous hut, composed chiefly of packing cases and biscuit tins, at Bowentown. This hut was overrun with rats, and swarming with fleas-not the romantic ideal of simple life in the Antipodes. But we were young, hopeful, and enthusiastic, and it was some years before we admitted that we had made a mistake.

In Tauranga or, better still, Auckland we should have had less hard work and not the ruinous expense of labourers' wages.

We honoured November qth by our first dish of strawberries-a great treat, costmg 2S. 6d., and lacking the English flavour. We had started poultry-keeping, our woman-servant getting eight or ten eggs daily from six hens. The number fell off rapidly after her departure, and I ceased to feed the neighbour's bens as she had done. Our first little turkeys were a great joy, our Irish clergyman'sdaughter kindly teaching us how to care for them.

On the rzth we made up a picnic party in boats to Mount Maunganui, lunched under trees, and climbed 800 feet to the top of the Mount, where one of our party left my light waterproof, which he had kindly carried for me. We discovered its loss only after coming down, when it was too dark to go back. A lady remarked: "I hope the cows won't eat your cloak"; quite . a surprise, and noi a pleasant one, when next day the cloak was brought to me-minus a good meal for the cows. A clever tailor, also our landlord, skilfully filled the gap with the cloak's own hood, so that I was able to wear it when, at 3.15 the following morning, to suit the tide, a friend took us in his sailing-boat, the Erin-go-bragh, to Mount Stewart. He and his man cooked beefsteak and made tea for us, as there was a head-wind, and we

19 18 MY SIMPLE LIFE IN ~EW ZEALAND. 1878

should have stuck in the Mangroves had not the 55. Buena Ventura towed us through them. After much tacking we reached Mount Stewart at I p.m., very tired and hungry, and there were met by Hugh, who had come an hour's row from Bowentown to fetch a plough, and other heavy things. We had brought his dress-clothes, so he was ready and willing for the dance in the billiard-room, which followed a great lunch and cricket match, Tauranga v. Kati Kati, the latter winning. Tauranga people left by steamer at 9 p.m., dancing being kept up till 2 a.m, to music played by myself and others.

No-breakfast for us till half past eleven next day; then we started in Erin-go-bragb for Bowentown, were carried ashore on men's backs, had tea with our servants in Hugh's very small rough shanty, and returning to Mount Stewart found dancing going on again. This was abruptly terminated by our host, who had retired early and awoke with a start at the sound of music and dancing, thinking it was an earthquake.

Next morning we :returned to Tauranga in the Erin-go-bragh, a fair four hour's sail-our kind neighbours who had kept our boy during our absence, and fed the little turkeys, givmg us dinner to save Lou and me the trouble of cooking. But we could no longer indulge in such idleness when Hugh was so busy and uncomfortable. Therefore I went to the Shipping Office to enquire about the hire of the larger steamer Kati Kati for our removal to Bowentown.

After a minute's thought the polite Agent said to me: "Do you mind going outside?" Upon which I promptly stepped out of his office on to the wharf; he appeared dismayed.

MY SIMPLE LIFE IN NEW ZEALAND.1878 " What have I done? I meant outside Matakana

Island, instead of by the inner channel so much affected by tides; not outside this office," which was a quite satisfactory explanation, and ended in our engaging 55. Kati Kati on November 28th, for [5, Hugh having written to say that he had 'leased Jemmy the Darkie's store for our temporary residence. Jemmy was a West Indian, most civil and obliging. His store being of iron we promptly named it Tinpot Castle, which name it held for many years until it fell into the hands of less frivolous people, who called it Arbour View.

On the night of the 23rd N<?vember, a fearful thunderstorm broke over Tauranga, waking us all up with a start. Trinity Church was struck by lightning and much damaged; quite an unusual event in these parts, where thunderstorms are less frequent and violent than in En~land.

November 27th was our busiest day, packing the last of everything, including two hens, and six young turkeys; four or five cart loads were taken down to the wharf, and at 5 o'clock we. left our peaceful cottage for Cook's Hotel, where after tea we dressed for a ball in the Temperance Hall, and danced till 2 a.m., when we returned to the hotel, supposing we were soon to start for Bowentown. But no steamer was there so we went to bed, and at noou 55. Kati Kaii appeared with dama~ed screw, so we had to give her up and engaged the cutter Lancashire Lass for our goods, and steam launch Buona Ventura for ourselves next day. Many other settlers took advantage oCour trip and entertained us with their doleful experiences of the past two or three years, such as "Flowers won't grow. or vegetables or fruit, in Kati Kati," which meant that they had not planted any.

20 MY SIMPLE LIFE IN NEW ZE AL AND. 1878

At the U retara we parted from these" wet blankets," and continued our way to Bowen town, where our man and Jernmy the D arkie met us with punts and landed us at Tinpot Ca stle. It was a large st ore with loft, in which Lou slept on a mattress on the Hoar, Mervyn having similar accommodat io n beside us, H ugh in a hammock, and I on a lath-bed, in our zeal quite enj oying" rough ing it " as settlers.

We crossed a little sandy bay on foot to our servants' cottage for breakfast, served on a door on cases for atable, and we had sack s of provisions for seats. Later we. rowed ac ross the tidal riv er in our punt to Bowentown, co nsisting of Post Office, Telegraph Stati on, an accommodation-house very well kept by Alf and Betty F aulkner-half-castes-and a few co ttages and Maori huts or , whares, about 10 X 14, mad e of sticks and rushes, and floored with flax and roofed with raupo (bulrush es).

W e called on a fellow-passenger, a Gen eral, but he was away superintending work on his landadj oiuing ours, to which after ea rly dinner we walked about 2t miles, forming a track by pushing our way, Hugh as leader, through fern and tea-tree, up hill and down dale, until on an eminence we gazed on our future home, a limitless tract of undulating, uncultivated land.

" This is our farm," said Hugh . " But wh ere does it begin j wh ere does it end.?" I

anxiously enquired . Then with a fern-stalk and out stretched arm he indicated a lin e half way up precipitous hills, and over a stream to where we stood, mappingout our 300 acres (aft erw ards increased to 500) which we had bought from our leader before leavin g home and became possessed of by lot.

In a hollow just below wh ere we stood smo ke was

21 MY SIMPLE LIFE IN NE W ZEALAN D.

1878 seen, and th ere we found our future near est neigh bours- a young Irish couple with little children, try ing to make lig ht of their t ent dwellings. They kiridlj gave us lea, and offered us half a shee p whi c

terpr ising- local bu tcher had that morning left wi th them in hopes that we would buy it. Nee dless to say we were delighted, having noth ing but ti nned meat and bacon at Tinpot Lastle . Then, having bought. a horse from a settler who was pl oughi ng our land, L ou and ~r e rvy n rode it hom e bar e-backed, carrying

the half sh eep in front of them. ow we were relieved to he ar tbat the L a'ncashire

L ass with our goods had come, having been det aiued eu route from T auranga , to carry passen gers thither . from S5. Taranaki, wrecked on Li zard Island.

December r st being Advent Sunday, Hugh held a little morning service for us, our servants and family, and ] emmy, but later had to work hard aft er an imperative message from the Captain of the L aHcashire Lass to "discharge cargo at once." Ne xt day the rain came down in such torr ents that we were quite glad of the occupat ion of unpacking and- arrangin g the Cast le. By Wednesday the sun sho ne again and afte r 7.3

0 breakfast at the cottage, Hugh and hi s man

] oe starte d on foot to work at . the sta bles, int ended eventually to be used as such, but temporarily to accommodate .us all, immediate conside rat ion being due to our servants, wh o were chee rfully enduring their rat-infested cottage, where these vo(aci oUs rodents boldly eat the crumbs on th e floor , and st ill worse, far worse, the poor baby's toe nails at night.

At noon, L ou, Mervyn and 1 followed on foot with tinned meat, bread and cold tea dinner; h aving enjoyed thi s and rested, Hugh took us over acres of ploughed land and, through scrub t o our riv er,

c

22 My SIMPLE LIFE IN NEW ZEALAND. r878

whose banks of lovely ferns delighted Us. Here also were f ne puriri trees, rugged evergreens, casting grateful shade on land and water, the river alternately deep and shallow, swift and slow, reminding ' us of the Errne at -Ivybridge. Therefore we named this spot .. Devonshire." .

On our return to the stables we had more cold tea (not having been in these early days wise enough to make it hot I), read home papers, and retraced Our steps to Tinpot Castfe, a fifty minutes' wa lk.

Thus were many days spem ; ste ady, ha rd work for H ugh and Jo e; dusty hot walks for the rest of us, Su nday being welcome as a day of perfect res t.

About th is time, seeing tile rough work H ugh had to do, and how hard it was on his good English clothes, so different from the Colonial, which made me dread the day when he would have to take to them, 1 un picked a worn pair of trousers, and made for Hugh a pair of canvas ones, like the "jumpers"

. he used to wear in the Long Course at Shoebury oess. But oh, w hat" different surroundings, and r cannot say I preferred them.

The heat .in Tinpot Castle was dreadful, 900 a t noon, but down to 68° in the eveni ngs. . Lou felt it when ironing Some of Our clothes; which she had pluckily helped Our servant to wash the day before.

Now the stables were get ting interesting ; at [he end of a week some weather-board walls were up, and the roof soon followed . j emrny the Darkie began digging a well. Mosquitoes became a torment, and we put up bars. Our mid-day walks were m ost exhausting, sand-flies and dust bein g intolerable. But how Lou and I revelled in the river in the cool of the evening. But for a while I lost her company, as she went to stay at Mount Stewart

r878 MY SIMPLE LIFE IN NEW ZEALAND. 23

One day I stayed at Tinpot Castle, and for the first. time plucked a gosling, brought to us by Jemmy, who found it just killed by a dog; this made a pleasant change in our commissariat. Sara and I mad e a tea-tree enclosure for our fowls, as a halfcaste neighbour, Alf, said they were destroying his oats, nearly ripe for the harvest.

Next we went to a Maori settlement to try to get potatoes, which in December were unattainable, the old ones being done, and the new ones not willingly dug by the natives, who object to anything unripe. Jemmy had coached us to say :-" Homai te riwai " (I want to buy potatoes}: but our courage failed as we approached the settlement and Turi, a mu chtattooed Maori, enveloped in. a blanket, ' rose as if from sleep, extended his blanket to the full length of his arms, and positively roared at us. We fled with our lives, but no potatoes!

Next day I was busy washing and ironing, as we wanted to look tidy on Christmas Day, which Hugh, Mervyn and I spent quietly on the beach, und er the shade of the beantiful crimson-flowered pohutakawas or Christmas trees, reading letters from home, and later entertaining our stable neighbours at tea.

Hugh, having bought from a half-caste for [6 a chestnut mare, "Pretty Jane" (so-called in honour of her previous owner), started one morning for Mount Stewart, but soon returned, having' been unable to cross some swamps. Lou, also to my great joy, appeared about this time, having signalled, and been picked up in our boat at Mount Stewart by Jemmy.

That day there were crowds of Maories about all day, arriving in every kind of boat and canoe, dress and undress, for the opening of a Whare-Karakia, Maori Church, about 20 by 40, walls about 5 ft. high,

25


made of wood and rushes, like their smaller dwellings. One of their passengers was Brown, the painter, who, with his tools, went after dinner with us to the stables to paint that edifice. Great was our joy that evening to hear that Jemmy tad struck water at a depth of 62 ft.; for the stables stood high.

Next morning four Maori girls called on me at the Castle. They were charmed with "Queens," the ladies' paper" and everything they saw. I gave them a cro chet lesson-such apt pnpils, and th ey taught me many Maori words. At noon they came in crowds to cut oats; two women collected wood and stones, made a fire in a hole in the grQund, covered with stones, on which, when hot, they threw water, put in potatoes and fish, most carefully cleaned and scraped with shells, covered them with wet sacks, and in half an hour gave me some most excellently cooked.

On New Year's Day, 1879, we accompanied our four friendly Maori gir.ls to their Whare-Karakia, crawling in throngh a low opening, and being shown flax mats on which to squat, as they all were doing, round the walls in family groups, many asleep audibly. Finding fleas very lively, and the atmosphere stuffy to a degree, we soon withdrew, greatly to our hostesses' disappointment, who had expected us to st ay for prayers and snpper.

Two days this week we had such torrents of rain that we could not leave the Castle, and Hugh was very rheumatic. Lon and I started poultry-farming at the stabl es by sitting a hen au thirteen eggs, whi ch to our dismay she refused next day to leave, so we lifted her off, thinking we knew more about it than the hen did. Lnckily she did not resent our interference, and went back.

Again we had two pouring wet days, so that Castle

MY SI M P LE LI F E I N NEW ZEALAND . 1879 and cottage were flooded. It was our regular business wh en walking to and from the stables , and at spare t imes, one and all to coll ect firew ood for cooking. The new kitchen at the stables had an ead h floor, so L ou and I bu sied ourselves grubbing with our hands in the plonghed land for shells to strew th ereon j

these shells were the rem ains of Maori feasts, in the days when they lived mainly on shell-fi sh. It to ok us four days to lightly cover the small kitchen floor! So zealons were we for work that, clov er being rip e round Tinpot Cas tle, we gathered seed and scattered it on our land near the stables. On our way there we met a t iny pig, so pretty that we called it "Venus," caught it, and put it into a little fenc ed enclosure at the st ables. Then we felt we had really starte d a farm, and delighted in feeding this pig more than we did as th ey increased in aft er years.

Hugh and men went in our pnnt to Mount Stewart, where all our heavy goods h ad beeuleft, and brought back reaper, harrows, weighing-machine, toolche st, etc. Next day he rode several mile s to see his parents, who were plnckily rou ghing it too. I had a busy morning plu cking godwit s, a kind of curlew, which Alf had shot, and which proved excellent eating. Then I made my first jam; sp ent hours peeling peaches-a most tedious job and great mistake-acting according to ignorant instruct ions, to boil this fru it with sugar for a day, at the end of which, worn ant and tired with standing and stirring, in great heat, the result was a dark, unattractivelooking and tasting compound. Experi enc e and study of scientific authorities t aught me simply to remove the stones, crack these, blan ch the kernels by pouring boiling water over them, and boil them with the whole fruit and equal weight ·of sugar, as fast as

27

26 MY SIMPLE LIFE IN NEW ZEALAND.

18]9 possible for twenty to thirty minutes, not leaving off stirring the whole time, when, having jars ready, you at once fill them with a bright-coloured clear preserve, which will keep indefinitely in Mason's screwtop jars. So quick is the process, that I was able after practice to make 500 to r,500Ibs. of jams, jellies, bottled fruits and marmalade every year, so that my store-room was a perfect picture!

One of our trips from Tinpot Castle was across the ri ver, to get oysters off the rocks at Kati Kati Head; the name means H ~t()p! Stop!" significant of the days when one tribe of Maories stood on their Pah, and so saluted with stones and spears an invading tribe in canoes below.

Trips to Mount Stewart to acquire all Our possessions were now frequent. Here there was always a bustle, many other settlers looking for their property too, and it was a work of time and patience to reclaim one's own-furniture, piano, pictures, fire- place tiles (ornamental, from Hampton's), washing machine, a present from an old friend at home, who had compassion on us in our changed circumstances.

Having one room walled and roofed at the stahJcs, we decided that our servants should move into it; so on February rst, after a pouring wet morning, they drove there in Our cart with some live stock (chickens and kittens), we following on foot to see them settled, and so back to Tinpot by moonlight.

Next day we bought from a Maori woman a large kit (Maori basket of flax) ful1 of potatoes for 3 . ,

Sabout rd. per lb. We now had some heavy rain, with very cold nights, as low as 55°, alternating with high winds and clouds of dust. Then again in this most chaugeable climate would come a lovely bright day with refreshing breeze, 80° at noon and 680 in the evening.

r879 MY SIMPLE LIFE IN NEW ZEALAND.

On r6th, we heard of the arrival in Tauranga from Ireland of Hugh's sister Mary, with her family of sons and daughters, all to become settlers.

So keen were Lou and I for flowers that we started a garden near the stables, where Hugh had thoughtfully ordered some native trees and shrubs to be left for shelter, when the general clearing was being done, otherwise the wind would have blown all we planted out of the ground. We pulled up fern-roots, and dug with all our might, feeling completely exhausted, as do all "new chums" at the end of an hour. But that feeling of fatigue has to wear off as time goes on and it becomes evident that gardening must be the woman's department, the men being too busy for anything so purely ornamental as flowers, or unnecessary as vegetables. Riding was a great pleasure to Lou, but not to me, who preferred walking, which, however, was impracticable for long distances in a country without roads.

The stables having grown, we all moved there on March rst, and soon got comfortably settled in a small sitting-room, large bed-room, in which we had to place the piano in a curtained recess, and loft which Lou occupied.

Our cow, a recent purchase, was found next day staggering about, wheeliug round and round in a most alarming fashion. Luckily, a half-caste passing by saw her, and said, "Your cow is 'tutu'd'; give me a sharp knife," and promptly bled her by cutting her ears, when she fell down exhausted, but did not die, as many of our cows did from time to time later on, when having eaten too greedily of a poisonous native plant" tutu."

\Ve had now two days of incessant rain, which enabled us to put up blinds and curtains, and gene

BRARIESTAiu\PUNA PUlJU


rally beautify the house. As soon as it got fine, Lou and I sowed all sorts of vegetable seeds, most of which came up in four to six days.

Hugh bought from ' another settler a fine gray mare, Jessie, for £28. On one of his trips to Tinpot Castle for supplies, Joe picked a sack full of mushrooms, so we cooked some, and made our first ketchup with the rest.

Hugh's carpeutering talent now showed itself, and all through Our life in New Zealand proved most useful. He began by making shelves for glass and china, brackets for saddles and bridles, and everything being made of wood, he was able to furnish the house very conveniently and comfortably.

One day We saw four riders coming to call; these were the Bishop of Auckland, Rt. Rev. W. G. Cowie, Rev. W. MUlgan, and Messrs. Thorpe and Hoyte, their guides. Of conrse they IUIlched with us, and we thoroughly enjoyed talkiug about General, now Lord Roberts, the Archbishop of Canterbury, and other mutual friends. We found the Bishop now and at all times in years to come most sympathetic, and we delighted in his visits, especially when accompanied by Mrs. Cowie, who rode long distances, and worked hard with him, and took most practical interest in his large'Diocese. Having sons of their own, they asked about ours, his education, and were glad to hear that I made time to teach him every mormng.

We now started white-washing the ceilings of our rooms; then tacked scrim on the walls, and covered them with paper; this was wet-weather work and most satisfactory.

As their crops ripened now in April, Maories brought us potatoes, "kumaras" (sweet potatoes),


rock and water-melons, etc., begging in return, instead of money, for soap, candles, matches, or, better still, old clothes, which as yet we did not possess.

Hugh and I occasionally rode over swamps, across a river, up-hill and down-dale-eight miles awayto see his parents, who, like ourselves, were having a perpetual picnic.

Hugh now invested in fifty-six ewes and lambs, which did very well on our undulating' land, and were the beginning of a little money-saving in mutton, and money-making in wool.

The month of May had now come and, as we had been warned, it was a very wet one. W e started in fine weather one day riding to the parents. After a mile or two, rain began, and came down in torrents, so that Hugh had to lead me on Pretty Jane down the steep slippery hills. I was dripping wet when we arrived. I dressed in the old lady's clothes, putting on Illy damp habit to ride home by moonlight. And so our patience was tried by rain, rain, rain, beating into our small quarters, aud interfering hopelessly with the drying of our clothes, which we ourselves so regularly washed. The tracks were dangerously slippery; Hugh had the unfortunate experience of riding one day to the Uretara to post our Home Mail, intending to return home at 3 'p.m. He did not, and at 5.30 came a messenger from the Uretara, saying his horse had slipped; Hugh had fallen, and dislocated his shoulder, but it had been set by kind friends, and he hoped ,to be 'hom e tomorrow, which he was, coming by water, and for a week was quite an in~alid.

Now, all this wet weather was splendid for planting, and having got £20 worth of trees from Booth's Hairini Nursery, Tauranga, we had a busy time


putting them in selected places: ' Pinus Insignis, Wellingtonia, cypress, birch, beech, oak, Spanish chestnut, elm, lemons, oranges, currants, gooseberries, raspberries, and strawberries. We also planted r-lb. walnuts in lines where they were' intended to make a plantation; they soon came up, and in four months were leafy little trees, but not many survived the depredations in th ose early days of fowls, sheep, cows, and . horses. Later on, Our fences excluded trespassers. .

There was now so much rain that Our river rose very high, -r ushing wildly between its banks, and :flooding the mare level land. After Our Bishop's visit to our lonely sett lement he took pity on us, and sent us occasionally a visiting clergyman, who was very welcome, and stayed with us, shivering with cold in Our fireless rooms (for we had been told before leaving home that we should "never want a fire in New Zealand," and so provided for none at first), or else with Our neighbour, the General, a mile away, Who lent a room for Morning or Evening Service as announced by the clergyman.

We found the high wind was damaging Our young trees, so the next big job was to cut straight sticks, and having driven one well into the ground at a sharp angle, to wrap a st rip of rag round the tree, and tie it to the stake. We spent all our spare time, Hugh filling a barrow from the mound of earth thrown out of the well at the back of the house, and I wheeling it away to fill up holes, and level the rough ground in front of the house, which, with the frequent torrents of rain, soon became a sea of mud. However, ]0 improved matters by laying down three cartloads of shells, as already described for the kitchen floor.

r879 MY SIMPLE LIFE IN NEW ZEALAND. 3r

Our wooden shingle roof, not being waterproof, necessitated keeping a supply of baths, basins, piedishes, etc., handy to catch the drops, which, with frequent movin g of furniture, enabled us generally to have a dry bed, in which respect we were better off than som e of our neigh bours, who, with st ill mor e primitive accommodation, slept under cover of umbrellas, and tried to make a joke of it .

Lou and I were busy these wet days, making for her a brid esmaid's dress for an approaching wedding, and converting Mervyn's Highland suits iut o jackets and knickerbockers, my Scotch pride in.. the kilt

"having been considerably diminished by some of the Maori's very similar garment!

Mervyn was made very happy by a present from the General's nephew, Tom, of a green lizard, which he kept hangin g up by his bedside in a mustard-tin, fed it on flies, etc. , and one morning awoke me with screams of delight.

"Oh! Mammy, my Li z has got young ones," and so she had; therefore , in course of time, th ey had to be liberated, or were eaten by the cat-s-I forget which!

June had come, and with it very cold mornings, 48°, and often very wet. On loth we were busy packing for the wedding at Mount Stewart: mattress, pill ows, blankets, etc., in valise, and from the General's wharf started in his large boat, the Snowdrop, being rowed by Charlie the Dane, our first "sundowner," whom Hugh employed at 20S. a week and" tucker " ; and Patrick, a surveyor, employed in the settlement at, I should be afraid to say, what wages!

On reaching Mount Stewart we found all busy with preparations-scrubbing, and so forth, going on

33 32 MY SIMP LE LIF E IN NEW ZE ALAND . 1879

by all hands. Being within a couple of miles of the parents' place, H ugh an d I started on foot t o see h em ; a man with a sledge overtook us hal f way,

and gave us a lift on his lowly, but easy, safe car riage, level with the track and dust, pas t a sch oolho use , where our lead er 's ch ildre n and othe r settlers were being educa ted.

\Ve foun d our sister Ma ry and family staying with t he parents, a nd , after early dinner and chat, walked back in t he dark, finding many more gu ests had arrived, who had to be accommo da ted on the floor anywhere. W e were all right with th e bedding we had b rought, on the floor, of course; a nd oh, the fleas !

Our host ro used all the men at daybreak for a swim in t he sea, and afte r breakfast, such as one reads of in bo oks in " traveller ' s yarns, " we prepared the wedding breakfast table in the billi ard-room, and helped bri de and bri desm aids (three) to dress, one having to keep g uard over th e lockless door. Crowds poured in by sea and land, but no best man, " th e catch of th e season," so we waited and waited, unti l at last the steamer from Tauranga wa s sighted, when the desired one, a sma rt young office r, soon a ppeared, all spick and span, and th e ceremony took place in the drawing-room, our Irish Can on officiat ing. I wa s hon oured by his taking me in t o br eakfast. We sat down a party of sixt y-four, followed by a second party of thirty. Aft er th e feast the youn g couple rode away to th eir. future hom e (four mil es off) amid gun-firing, rice, slippers, etc . Later there was a dance to piano musi c by a bi g police-sergeant in muddy top -boots, a lady sett ler, an d mys elf, who had never dr eamt that my limited mu sical powers would be so acceptable as they proved on this-and

MY SIMPLE LIFE I N NE W ZEALAND.1879 many similar occasions during our twenty-eight

years in New Z ealand. Next morning breakfast began at eleven, and

conti nued at in te rva ls for hours, during which the party di spersed , we being very glad to get back to our bright, clean home.

W e had come to New Z ealand as a "land without t axes," but with our advent they came too, and a visit from our local rate-collector to raise money for roads, especially ours t o Tinpot Castl e. Hugh gave £5,"and then follow ed £3 as his subscription to the clergymau's half-year' s stipend.

L ou and 1 having gradually ext empo r ised bachelor's quarter s at the othe r end of the loft, we were pr epared for an invas ion on June zoth of the old Captain, our lead er, G. V.S ., the Crown L ands Ranger, a nd a you ng man, fresher from home than even we were. W e put th em all up for the night, fift een soul s, in th e stab les . This visit of the Crown L ands' Ranger exasperated me, h e having been sent to report on th e work of the new settlers, who were threat ened with forfeiture of their land if they failed to comply with certain very st rict and unreasonable condit ions ; whereas 1 felt that we should have been paid for coming to New Z ealand at all.

One Sunday we all st arted on foot to call on the newly-married couple four miles off, ac ross 'a ' riv er. A friendly sett ler brought a h orse, and himself wading, led us each in turn on the bare-backed horse acr oss, and led us to the house, where we were given a good dinner, and detained by heavy rain until du sk, wh en with another obliging horse we retraced our steps over the river to the General's, for Evening

Service. On Monday our kind clergyman gave me a

34 MY SIMPLE LIFE IN

quantity of cuttings and plants from volunteered them, thus starting a lovely

ders, roses, honeysuckle, etc. On June roth we started an

bery, etc.; and a kitchen-garden,

passion-flowers, primroses, verbenas, etc.

Soon very numerous; ably. We had and no sickness among them.

pigeons, duck, etc.

Round the kitchen-garden post and wire fence planted blackberries (Californian

light land, and became a pest.

acacia, hakea, etc.

Mosquitoes, which had not found stables, now became very troublesome we put up bars-a comfort, unless one had been made a prisoner. In that tortured, and had to light a a palmetto whisk we had brought from Bermuqa.

New Zealand, was death in a swamp of a

35MY SIMPLE LIFE IN NEW ZEALAND.r879

found too late by two young men, who were fencing our land. They often gave us eels caught in our river, which some of our party enjoyed very much. They also taught me to make bread, their mother being a famous baker, as was proved by the loaves they brought up in the evenings to our kitchen and asked us to bake for them. The bread was excellent, mixed with home-made yeast, and was my unchanged recipe all my life in New Zealand, so I give it here;

Yeast.-rlb. each sugar, flour and potatoes; 20ZS.

each hops and salt; r gallon water. Boil for an hour the hops and water, strain, and set by to cool. Boil the potatoes in I pint water; mash them very smooth, and mix them with the water they were boiled in. Put in a large basin the sugar, flour, and salt; mix with them very gradually the mashed potatoes and hop-water. Bottle, cork tightly, tying on the corks with string. It will be .ready in 24 hours.

Bread.-In the evening put in a basin: flour, 10 lbs.; sugar, 3 tablespoonfuls; salt, I tablespoonful; yeast, I cupful (large). Add very gradually I gallon lukewarm water; mix thoroughly (which will take about ten minutes), cover with a rug, and place by the fireside all night. Next morning, work this up for 15 minutes, with as much more flour (2 or\ 3 lbs.) as will bind all into a lump t the more it is worked the better. Divide the dough into eight loaves, put them in tins by the fireside, and when risen (in an hour or

. two) bake for one hour and a quarter.

From August roth to September 6th we had no rain, and so dried up was the land that we rejoiced when it came again in torrents, soon followed by hot sunshine, which made the grass and all our other recent sowings and plantings grow beautifully.

NEW ZEALAND. r879

Aucklaud, and to stop another day, and help us plant

flower-garden with escallonias, weigelias, ageratums, lasiandras, olean

orchard by planting r04 trees: apple, pear, peach,' nectarine, cherry, plum, damson, apricot, greengage, fig, loquat, orange, mul

with artichokes, asparagus, 'seakale, etc.; and in flower-garden roses,

About this time our first lambs appeared, and were our farm suited them admir

always the earliest in the district,

Our various visitors enjoyed exploring the place with their guns, and often brought home pheasants,

we brambles, £r a

hundred), and although they bore fine fruit, we never ceased to regret the day we had introduced therri, for they spread terribly by root-suckers over acres of this

So also did many other imported plants·-sweet briar, gorse, kangaroo

us out yet at the at night, and

of the pests case we were

candle and kill it with

August r7 th, the first anniversary of our landing in unfortunately celebrated by the

newly-purchased heifer,

36 MY SIMP LE LIFE I N NEW ZE ALAND . 1879

One fine day, Hu gh , Mervyn and I walked to see th e old par ents, wad ing through th e T uapiro, and cro ssing many wet swa mps. W e go t t here in three hours, and spe nt th e night with th em, wal king horne next day, being th ere gree ted with th e bad news that our sheep had strayed down to the bea ch , where twenty-two ewes and eight lambs were drowned in th e mangr oves. D et ermined they sh ould not be wasted, Hugh and Jo spent next da y ca rt ing them up to the orc hard, and burying th em under fruit-trees, greatly benefi tting th e latter. After seven weeks' work at feu cing, cos ting £50, our young breadinstructors left .

On Se ptember 29th \ve enjoyed th e first-fru it s of ou r garde n-green peas, sown on May zoth, We were now favoured with equinoctial ga les, disastrous t o young vegetation. Milk and butter bein g scarce, we bought from a half- caste a brindle cow and dayold calf, for £12. Pretty Jane presented us with a foal, so our st ock was increasing.

October being a dry month, we avai led ourselves of heavy rain on th e 13th to tran splant tomatoes, cauliflowers, cu cumbers, vege ta ble marrows, melons. et c., so the garden looked quite furni shed. Magpi e, the cow we had nearly lost in March, had ano the r calf, Jackdaw, an other cow following sui t, so th e dairy was increasing, also the work slowly and surely. Although too late in th e season, we bo ught from a neighbour tw o pigs for curing; weight 4IOlbs at 3d., £ 5 2 S. 6d. Then we had <J regular field -day, ' ru bbing in salt, sugar and sa ltpe tre, and making brawn, por k-pies, sausages, etc. This was wom en' s work, th e men bein g busy planting po tatoes .

One day a pa rty of eight girls and young men started on horseback at 10 a.m, from our house,

1879 MY STMPLE LIF E IN NEW ZEALAND. 37

ca rrying kit s of sandwich es, sausage rolls, cakes, etc ., along a rough, p icturesque track through th e Gorge towar ds Paeroa, where th e natives were still host ile,

hey have since becom e quite fr iendly . by th e discovery some tw en ty years ago in that locality of gold, leading to the conve rsion of one or two so lita ry shanties int o the prosperous town of W aihi, which for cleanliness has no rival in E ngland, excep t perhaps Bourne mouth, th at . most fas hionable healt resort. W aihi now boasts of several good ho tels and res ta urants, streets of fine houses and shops; quite different from 1879 wh en our young frien ds rode th ere, had a picnic lunch, and came home by a st ill roug her track leading them on to a beautiful sa ndy beach, where ano ther very promising gold-mine, the W aihi Beach, is now being exp loited. A few miles canter along th e ha rd sands bro ught th em to th e ford across to Tinpot Cas tle, and so back to us very tired and very hungry, and all slept here.

At the end of October maize was sown, th e seed being soaked in wat er for some days; then, to keep off birds, rats, an d mice, blackened with tar , and sanded for convenience of handling. Two seeds at a time were dropped tw o feet apart in the fnrr ow made by the plough, with pumpkin seed tr eated in the same manner in alterna te furrows.

Our visitors departed afte r tea and strawberries and cream - our first. Lou had plenty of riding, and j oin ed her friends in a trip to the Uretara for a concert, and on ne xt day to T auranga, thirty-seven mil es, for theatricals.

While she was away we made a sta rt at enlarg ing the house, Hugh having engaged Dowland, a carpenter, wh o, on October 29th, contracted to do the work we wanted for [400 by January 15th. H e

D

arrived in the cutter Spitfire with timber and bricks from Auckland, which were landed on rafts at the General's wharf, only a mile off. The men were nearly a week landing the 20,000 feet of timber. Having finished this heavy job, our servants and children, after fifteen months' good, useful work, left us to better themselves, and are now amongst the most prosperous of early pioneer settlers. Lou being away, Hugh and I had to find out how to cook 1 Our young Irish neighbour (whose husband is now a wealthy store-keeper) was most kind and he lpful

ilking our cows: at which I to ok my first lesson, also making porridge, wi thout w hich no Colonial breakfast is complete. Ta lone pr epared breakfast and the whole din ner for th e first time: soup, roast beef, and tapioca pudding, and was not I proud of it, and bot, to o!

We ate, on November 7th, our first early potatoes, planted ] uly 21St.

Lou came back after a fortnight's absen ce, quite appreciative of the black lead polish Hugh and I had put on the stove, and of my bread.

W e we re all bidden to the wedding of th e Canon's prett y yo ung Irisbcook (whom I presented with a bouquet of lovely roses) in his drawing room in their comfortable house two miles off. T his couple are now, like our nearer neig hbours , prosperous storekeepers. ..

Next day Lou and I churned and mad e Glbs, of lovely butter-the best we had ever eaten, of course. Hugh agreed with a young settler, brother of our butcher, to pay him f1 a day for two horses, himself, and cart, to bring home our timber.

Our expenses were increasing, and views modi- · fying, so we decided to build rougher stables, and make

the pr esent" stables " the nucleus of Athenree, our dwelling-house, to be erected on a better site, nec essitating the removal intact on rollers some fifty yards of the stables. Before doing so, the drawing room, 28 x 18, was built on wooden blocks rammed into the ground; then followed the studs, upper plates, ridge board, rafters, rusticated board walls, battens for roof, shingles, window sashes, one being a large bay commanding a fine view of practically unlimited Pacific Ocean, quite lifeles s.

Butter-making was now (November 26th) a great difficulty on account of the heat, ice being of course unattainable in such a place.

The exterior of the drawing room was now quite pretty, with ornamental barge-boards at the gables, and saddle-boards on roof. How we delighted in watching this building growing.

Every day I proudly entered in my diary the dinner I had cooked, Lou being away with her brother, but these details lack interest after twentyeight years of the same.

Visitors of all sorts called on us; now a piano tuner, of whose services we gladly availed ourselves for 25s., providing him with free board and lodging for the night, and th e same for the bricklayer who came to build our chimneys and fill the fire-places with the pretty til es we had brought from Hampton's, contrary to the advice of those friends who had assured us we should need no fires in New Zealand.

,. But we must have fire-places," was our reply, and good use we made of them, with iron fire-baskets to hold wood and a little coal; in years to follow, the logs furnished by the trees, pines, gnms, acacias, etc., we were now planting, made,the most delightful fires imaginable.

39MY SIMPLE LIFE IN NEW ZEALAND.18791879MY SIMPLE LIFE IN NEW ZEALAND.38


On December rzth the river was warm enough for bathing, which Lou and I very much enjoyed. Hugh now engaged as farm hand at 2SS. a week, aud " found," Tom, the fine youug son of one of our most respected Irish fellow-passengers and settlers, whose advice on farming matters we always appreciated, Tom married in time one of my servants, and has now half-a-dozen fine sons of his owu and has permanent work in the settlement as road overseer.

Strawberries were now so plentiful that whenever the weather was dry I picked them and made quantities of jam; but often the sudden downpours of rain spoilt the fruit.

Hugh, Tom, and a tramp, at ISS. a week, with occasionally help from me, were busy pulling fern and weeds among the main crop of potatoes, which we had all helped to plant in September. Some very wet days came, too wet for this work, so we swept out the drawing room, spare room behind, and Lou's room above that, and Hugh and his men began furniture removal. First our Broadwoo. I grand square piano, then our military chests of d rawers, cases, and other portable furniture, saved from the dear old R.A. days. Next day we transferred our stables bedroom furniture into the new drawing room; aud Lou's into her upper room. Then the lower room was converted temporarily into a kitchen, the old one with the mud floor being immediately pulled down, because it interfered with the approaching stables removal on rollers.

Our large drawing room was inconveniently crowded with all our possessions, but that did not last long. The carpenters at once began removing partitions in the stables and lifting the building.


On Christmas Day we four, Hugh, Lou, Mervyn and I, started with the two horses (men's saddles), riding and walking in turns to see the parents, dropping Lou half way en route at her brother's. We had a large family dinner party, the old people having attached Irish servants to wait on them, \Ve were all put up for the night in their comfortable eight-roomed house and were so cheery that the dear old Captain, aged 8S, actually danced with the young people to my merry Irish tunes.

Next day it rained so heavily that we could not face the return walk, aud therefore enjoyed a well-earned rest. During a stroll to the manager, Johnston's, cottage, we came across a protege of his, Eddie, aged fourteen, whom we engaged at 6s. a week as "general servant."

Having been provided with sandwiches we left early next day, and had a very hot walk to the Tuapiro, which we waded through, and there ate our lunch, having called for Lou on our way. Then we dropped in at Hillside (the Canon's) for tea, and on reaching home, to our intense surprise, found the old stables, 40 x 20, had been moved and atjached to the new building. We congratulated the energetic carpeuters, whom Hugh rewarded with grog.

Although next day was Sunday I had, contrary to my usual day of rest, to bake bread, set the night before-a very hot job on a very hot day. On Monday I was up at S a.m. to make butter, pick strawberries, and do a lot of extra cooking-roast goose, boiled ham, cakes, etc., for a picnic to-morrow to the Waihi Beach, a beautiful spot, where gold is now being found, as I meutioned before. We were a party of twelve, all riding; had a good lunch under the shade of trees riear, and spring of excellent water, grand

42 MY SIMF LE LIFE IN NEW ZEALAND. 1880

ca nte r home over the sands in time for m e to se t bread , get hi gh tea for all, a nd p lay for danc ing till ne arly mi dnight. W ith the breaking up of our par ty next day ended the year 187g.

On New Year's day T om, expert with a scythe , began cu tt ing oats for h ay, so w n Se ptem be r 25t h, and I cnt out six flannel shir ts for Mervyn, which I w or ked a t during his lesson hours, in a nt ici pat ion of co rning winter.

The carpente rs, having now connec ted the two buildings, Brown began pain ting the hou se outsi de , his good work a nd mater ia ls lasti ng for ten years, when it had to be done again, a nd looked well when we left in 1906.

F ind ing hand work too slow Hugh invest ed in a reaper, a nd with two mares, Blossom a nd J essie, cnt oa ts of October 6t h.

The carpen te rs were getti ng on well with the staircase in Lou 's room, and the ori ginal loft, which was soon co nver te d into bedroom s ; also th ey built a kitch en at the back a nd ver andah in front.

The next tim e we went to see th e pare n ts , I rode Bl ossom, w hom I found very rou gh, a nd h ad a most uncomfort able ri de home, a nd felt even w or se next day.

All this ti me the loveli est weat he r a lte rnated with suc h do w upours of ra in that a ll wo rk was constantly interru pt ed, a nd straw be rr ies very mu ch spoiled. These g re w splend idly a t fir st, beginn ing in Octobe r with low- growing fru it (Duke of E d inburgh) h idd en a mo ng the lea ves, and la sting six or eig h t weeks. Theu , wit h a sho r t rest starti ng in J anuary, a second cro p with npright stem , po lyant hus-like g rowth . But althongh we cult iva te d, divided, mad e new beds, etc. , etc ., t his wonderful don ble crop last ed three or

1880 MY SIMPLE LIFE IN NEW ZE AL AND. 43

four years only, deteriorat ed, and finally disappeared as cult iva tion advanced, so that for many years past th er e were no st raw be rr ies in Kati Kati .

Eddie proved a m ost useful boy for a time, helping me well, especia lly with th at ted ious, ever- re cu rring washing up of plates, di sh es, saucep a ns , et c .

J ann ary 15th had co me, and our house was not fini sh ed; the can tra ct or was Irequ ently abs ent, lookin g o ut for a no ther j ob , which in one respect turned ou t to our adva ntage, for having under taken t o provide a kit chen-dresser (si ze not mention ed) , hi s assis ta n t co ns t ruc te d a fine large g-fee t one by my di rect ions, great ly to the wrath of hi s boss, who had intended it shou ld be 3 feet , the nsnal Colo nia l sty le.

About this time we all more or less went throngh th e usual pai nful process of acc limatisatio n, by a visit at ion of boil s, the firs t I had ever had, a nd mercifully the last; but they wer e very bad , a nd left in er adicable sc ars . L ou p roved a m ost kind, clev er nurse, bnt was herself suffer ing fr om t oothache. As soon as we were convalescent we had to mak e up for "lost time by being do nbly indnstri on s, a nd a m t omatoes bein g ri pe, made a g reat batch of chutne y and cleaned a lot of windows. Being wear y of sleeping in the d raw ing- roo m, we moved fnrniture, a nd took possession of our bed ro om (or ig in al sitt ing-roo m in th e stabl es), our then bedroom h aving been enlarg ed a nd converted into a diningroom, 2 2 X 16. We were prepared for our firs t tennis· party o n February 9th, Illy morni ng havin g been b usy pluckin g a nd cookin g fowl s, etc ., for abont a d ozen friend s, who had high tea with us, followe d by a hop till midnight-most of them sleep ing a t At he nree.

Our tomat oes in th e garden were so a bundan t that,

MY SIMPLE LIFE IN NEW ZEALAND. 188044

although we made quantities of chutney, sauce, and jam, we gave away kits of them.

The newly boarded floors now became a n anxiety, linolenm not being so common as now-a-days, and. reqniring constant scrubbing, to which we had not been accustomed! In hopes 01 saving such hard labour, we had the kitchen and scullery floors covered with bricks, which lasted for many years most satisfactorily until undermined by rats, which led eventually to having the bricks removed and a wooden floor laid in a much enlarged kitchen.

On February 15th Hugh brought in from our orchard a ripe Royal George peach and nectarine.

I received the very sad news of the death on December rSth of our dear friend, the Laird of Fyvie, N.B.

N ext day came some sporting settlers, begging for a subscription to Kati Kati Races. Hugh gave a guinea, and so pleased was one of our petitioners with this and his good dinner, that he promised me cornices-of which he considered his drawing-room unworthy-for ours, and very handsome they were.

The kitchen dresser being finished, our dissatisfied contractor refused to paint it, so I gave it a first coat on Thursday, and second on Friday, after filling np nail holes with putty by Hugh's directions, finished off with a third coat on Satnrday ; this work lasting well for all our time at Athenree.

OIl February zr st we saw across the bay a fire at Mount Stewart, which sent up smoke and flames to a great height; tben in about a quarter of an hour the corrugated iron roof of a large building fell in, and so there was an end to the fine new out-buildings and stables, in which had been stored all sorts of valuable implements, saddles, etc. The fire was lit by a small


boy surreptitiously smoking in a hay-loft-s-a most dangerous practice, and one we always had a dread of with farm-hands, sun-downers, etc.

On March z nd Lon rode to the Uretara for a-dance, came home at 5 in the morning, and after three hours in bed, rode off again to the Kati Kati Races, which she thought great fun, recounting her adventures on her return to us after three days.

Our weighing machine having been unpacked, we were all weighed on March 17th, when Mervyn was nine years old; he was 5 stone, 3 lbs.; Hugh, 14 stone, 6 lbs. j I, 9 stone, 7 lbs.; and Lou, 7 stone, 9 lbs. I need hardly say' our record now, except in Hugh's case, is very different!

\Ve were now getting peaches in great quantities, a sackful .at a time from our grove, originally planted by Maories ; the fruit was very inferior to glass house grown English, but made excellent jam.

Vve had another tennis party to celebrate Mervyn's birthday, winding up with the usual hop. At such busy times I very much, missed the clever help of our young Irish neighbour, who was kept at home with a third baby, to whom I became godmother. I saw her several year's afterwards-a very pretty girl.

We had now the pleasure of admiring Oetzmann's case of carpets, two years packed, and in perfect order.

NIr. Rolleston, Minister for Lands, 111[. Macinsty, and Mr. Percy Smith called on their way from Thames to Taurauga (80 miles), and lunched with us. They admired our home, but NIr. Rolleston urged us not to spend much on it, just to make the place habitable, sell it to the first bidder, and move elsewhere to better land. Needless to say, we did not follow his advice, and lived to regret it.

46 MY SIMPLE LIFE IN NE W ZEALAND. 1880

Tom began digging on March zoth th e field potatoes (It acre) planted on October 24th. The kit chen. . being the only suitable rain-proof place, was now filled with sac ks of clover and grass seed (£20 worth), brought from Auckl and by boat to' the General's wharf.

On April 4th, I8Bo, after bein g with us as a delightful companion since May rath, 1878, L ou left us to join her newly-married sister in Wellington, and I ne ed not say how much I missed her practical help.

The following Monday I baked bre ad, washed, folded and mangled the clothes by myself. All this time carpenters and painters were living on our

"p remises, and giving a lot of extra work, but haviug built for a friend of ours a four -roo med house within a quarter of a mile of ours (whi ch unlu ckil y for us he never occupied, but had been forced to buil d on his forty acres, or else forfeit the land), th ese men 'moved into this cottage , and troubled me no more to feed them. I found our family and party, with frequent visitors and Eddy, for whom I ma de clothes, mended and washed, quite sufficient. Starching and ironing were ext remely difficult at first, and to one's ' fastid ious eyes very un satisfact ory, but after a few years they did very well.

We were hav ing very dry weather, expecting rain; so having invited Tom's father, who lived ten miles away, to dinner, he and all hands mixed on a spreadout sail, grass and clover seed, whi ch was immediately sown, April 24t h, over about twenty-two acres, thus com plet ing the work which entitled us to our Crown grant.

On May rst, as usual, rai n ca me down in t orrents, which started grass and clovergrowing like magic. It began to get cold in th e evenings, and on May 7th

1880 MY SIMPLE LI FE IN NEW ZEALAN D. 47

we were very glad of a fir e of logs from our bush. The wind was often very high; as I found to my cost when, having done the washing, I left the clothes out overn ight to dry and found next mo rn ing that the line had snapped, th e clothes fall en, and all covered with mud. But in New Zealand, when you wa nt a th ing do ne, you mu st do it yourself. T hus washing, ri nsing and wr inging had to be do ne again, as a ma tter of course. B ut, t ry as I might, the work was too much for me, so I dispensed with Eddie, and was lucky to get in his place Tom's sis te r, Agnes, a nice br ight girl , at l OS. a week, wh o mil ked and did a ll kinds of useful work. She, too, soon marrie d well.

'Ne were able t o spend a night or t wo occasiona lly with Hugh's paren ts, leavin g T om and Ag nes in charge, an d she in tu rn wou ld rid e home frequently for a holiday.

I had now mo re time to devote to Mervyn's ed uca tio n-quite necessary, as he was nine yea rs old and mos t anxio us to learn, also to play the pia no; so we began mus ic-lesso ns and con tin ued them so successfully that he soon took pleasure in playing my old pieces and got much enjoyme nt ou t of our pian o. One day our cat brought in a quail, which I took from it , plucked and myself ate, giving it a bit of mutton in excha nge . T his became a common practi ce with succeeding genera tions of cats .

The pinus insignis trees that we had planted a yea r ago had made such go od growt h th at we real ised they were overc rowded and moved several to a greate r dis tance, alte rnately with blue gums (euca lypt us glob nlus), English oaks, and native puriris- fine little trees from last yea r 's sowing .

About th is tim e we had a visit fro m the Propert y Tax Co llector-a great sou rce of irritati on to enter

48 MY SIMPLE LIFE I N NEW ZE ALAND. 1880

prising people such as We were-s-havin g determi1.ed to make our home as beautiful as possible. The Government Surveyor was more welcome when he came with his men to put in grade pegs along the neighbouring Hiku ran gi Gorge, th e beginning of our connection with the futnre Waihi . Of co urse we accommodated our friend with such comfortable quarters as we wer e now a ble to offer during his two or three days' work.

Next day Hugh started on foot for Martr ay, his parents' home, to ac company by ste amer to T auranga his father, wh o was sworu in as a New Zealand magistrate. It was July, and mid-winter, with the usual torrents of rain and high wind, so that again the clothes-line broke; but my good Agnes, with her equable t emper, soon repaired th e damage done, and not long aft er this we ado pted galvanised wire lines, which saved us all further worry a nd minimised the work. Owing to the low temper ature, poor quality of the cream, etc . , chur ning was a wearisome business, butter not coming for two and sometimes four hours. '

On July tzth we, having arrived on, foot at Martray the previous day, spent a very bu sy morning, cooking, cleanin g, laying tables, etc., for the Oraugemen who arrived-a party of fourteen finelooking Ulster men with drum and fifes-and had a good dinner of roast beef, Irish stew, pies, plumpuddings, etc., wind ing up with loyal spee ches, songs and cheers, breaking up befor e 9 o'cloc k.

The Crown Lands R anger called again, expressed himself much pleased with am improvements, say ing " all that had been done was well done ."

My turkeys, having incr eased to fifteen in number, didrnuch damage in th e garden and field cr ops j so

Ii

illl

1880 MY SIMPLE LIFE I N NEW ZEALAND. 49 !! oue evening Tom and C harl ie (a tramp whom H ugh was em ploying at ISS . a week and board) caught th em roosting on a fence, put them in sacks and, wading 1]1

,th rough our river, deposited them on the opposite side, where th ey wer e supposed to pick up their own living ; but being a rather inaccessible, distant place, IIIthey were seldo m visited, until one ~ne day, a fortnight later, the tw o old birds appeared at the house, but no ~I IIyoung ones, whi ch in fact were never seen again from that day to this; so ended. our romantic dream of " wild turkeys in New Z ealand."

\V e had the misfortune of losing our fine mare, II Blossom, found dead in th e st ables one evening by Charlie, who, uua ccustomed to horses, had (we i!

Ii

think) put off feeding them till later than usual, T om . having go ue for a holid ay, and Blo ssom was found lyin g in a pool of blood, apparently having been kicked by J essie in the ne xt stall, wh o was rather bad-tempered and pr obably huugry.

I got from an old friend in Auckland a present of cutt ings and plants, which Agnes and I had a busy time pu tti ng in-gerani urns, pelargoni urns, heliotropes, penstemons, ageratums, hydrangeas: escalloni as, deutzias, mesembryanthemums, gue ldc r roses, laurels, oxalis, roses, arums, ixias, agapanthus-a spl endid contribution , most of which grew well and helped to convert our wilderness into a garden.

Next came a little gaiety in the form of a dance. On e Friday moruing we walked (crossing the Tuapiro in a Maori ca noe, which we fonnd tied to a stake on the bank) to Martray, had an early dinner with the old folk, th en walk ed three or four miles further to L arkspur, our sister Mary's pretty place on th e slopes of a steep hill overlooking the Uretara t ownship, and found all bubbling with excitement there in anticipa


tion of the dance that evening, to which many came, although it was a very stormy night, beginning dancing at 8 p. m. and going on vigorously till 4 a.m., with intervals for supper at midnight and soup at 3. We spent a day or two there, walking home on Sunday, having tea at the Canon's, followed by Evening Service, and so home in ankle-deep mud roads in pitch darkness.

Times were bad for horses and cows, so, for their benefit, Hugh got from a dealer in Tauranga one tall of clover haY-is lOS.

One very wet day-too wet for gardening-Agnes and I put together a dozen of cane-seated Austrian bent-wood chairs, which had come from Auckland in the flat.

August brought so much garden-work, also rain, that Hugh put up a little corrugated iron shelter, to which we could run during those drenching showers, and .so we went on working, digging and hoeing, planting and sowing, Agnes being most helpful, and in return persuading me to help her with the milking : such a bright girl, of a type that does not exist now, and destined soon to leave me, having an offer of £35 from her friend at the Rotomahana Hotel, which . naturally unsettled her. Early in September she and I finished making a strawberry bed with five hundred plants. We were often working in the rain, which gave me many a sore throat, with bad head-ache, from which latter I suffered greatly from earliest days in New Zealand, but never spent a day in bed; there was too much interesting and necessary work to be done, varied with a good deal of entertaining, as when September came, and fine weather, parties of young friends paid us surprise visits, riding in some cases many miles; so were, of course, asked to

1880 MY SIMPLE LIFE IN NEW ZEALAND. 5I

dinner and tea, generally winding up with a hop and nigh t's quarters, finding it hard to leave before dark next day.

We sowed quantities of annuals, many of which became permanent from self-sowing year after year, such as foxgloves, everlastings, columbines, etc. Foxgloves became a noxious weed, poisonous to young turkeys who ate their seeds. At Mervyn's lesson-time I made the drawing-room carpet (Oetzmann's), a very heavy but satisfactory job, which occupied my spare time for four weeks, and which gave us comfort for many years and always looked nice after a daily run over it with a carpet-sweeper (in those days a novelty in New Zealand) which we had brought from home.

We had so many windows that the cleaning ofth was quite a business, always a difficulty, and not a popular job where alternate showers, dust and sunshine made the task by no means a light one.

After nearly two years at Athenree, a traveller came with a packhorse loaded with patterns of all sorts of cotton and woollen stuffs, socks, etc., so we gave him an order, thus ensuring my needle being kept busy. Then another enterprising local storekeeper called with groceries, which he offered to deliver regularly; thus we were getting almost too civilised.

Ploughing took up most of Tom's time. Our horse, Fishhook, gave us much trouble as .he objected to the plough, so Tom's father sold his good horse, Bob, to Hugh for [ro, and Fishhook and pretty Jane's foal.

We were now getting frequent requests from .friends at home to receive their sons as farm cadets at [100 a year; having several spare rooms, which

52 MY SIMJ'Lb. LIF E IN NE W ZEALAND. r880

were seldom occupied, and, feelin g th e loss of cheerful society, we consented in some cases , and soon heard they were on their way out.

In addit ion to our vari ed daily work, Agnes and I frequently clea ned sadd les, brid les a nd bits, wh ic wer e less well looked after as y~a rs rolled on and we became less critical.

Mervyn, being now nine an d a-half yea rs old, was able to ride any horse and ma ke himself useful at odd j obs on the far-m .

Sorrel, in troduced by cultivat ion, was our mos t troublesome weed in a ll crops, and gave us plenty of work in the garden, as it ran for yards unde rground and ch ecked al l other g rowth cornpletel

Mervyn, who in after yuars had en tire charge of our cows, had not yet lea rned to milk, so that work fell to my sha re,when T om an d Agnes went home.

Funds having been supplied by the Coun ty Council, a three-span brid ge (unluckily all of wood, piers and abutme nts ha ving since bee n re placed by those of concrete made with sto nes from the bed of the stream ) was built across the T uapiro, much to au joy and that of the other settlers, who were ti red of fording th e river, somet imes ha ving to wai t hou rs for the tide to recede.

Mervyn's grandfather having given him a good pony ([5), he was a.ble to ride ab out quite ind ependently.

T owards the middle of Novem ber (corres po nding with May in England) Hugh caught six tiny pheasants in th e orchard, which we p ut in a coop. T wo imm edia.tely escaped throu gh a very sm all ape rture j the others I fed, lik e chickens, on hard-boiled egg, oa tmeal, etc., bu t one by one th ey all died .

Thanks to the Tuapiro Bridge , which enabled

MY SIMPLE LIFE IN NEW ZEALAND. 531880

carriages and carts to cross comfortably' and safely, we had our first visitors from Tauranga in a buggya light four-wheeled wagon to carry anything, with pair of horses.

All this time Hugh was very busy, alternately weeding farm crops and making endless cupboards, washstands, shelves, etc., .for the house. Having been warned by toothache that he should see a dentist, and reluctant to face the long ride to Tauranga, he put off the evil day and was rewarded on his return one morning from the fields by finding me in our drawing-room, ensconced in an easy-chair, having a tooth stopped by a travelling dentist from Sydney, N.S. W., who attended next to Hugh's and

' Agnes', and, having dined with us, went away with a good cheque and testimonial, ensuring him some weeks' work in the settlement, which extended for twenty-five miles along a narrow seacoast line sheltered by mountain ranges. Thus we heard little and saw still less of the majority of our fellowpassengers, until one day one of them-an enterprising, capable young Irishman-came up with cattle for sale, and Hugh bought nine yearlings for £25 and sold our old cow, Magpie, for £4 ros.

We had not in these early days acquired the art of sizing, staining and varnishing floors, so I spent days of hard labour putting one coat of brown paint, then a second and a third, on the borders of dining and drawing-room floors.

Having, on .November 8th, sown on our best land (the cropping-field) Sutton's Imperial and late drumhead cabbages, we began on December rfith to transplant them and continued doing so by the thousand until the end of March, thus having through the winter plenty of cabbages for ourselves and our cows,

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55MY SIMPLE LIFE IN NEW ZEALAND.

hours were tossed about, waiting. for the Lady Joce lyt~ , which did not come in within reasonable

istance, so we landed on Maunganui and were - spitably entertained with tea by the courteous Harbour Master, and so back to Tauranga by 8. Up again next mo rn ing at 6, and with H ugh and the Reception Commit tee only, I, contrary to strict etiquette On so im porta nt an occasion, got on board the Kati J(aH, a nd under the shelter of Mount Maunganui, we break fasted on board 55. Albion, by the kind mvil at ion of Captain Garrard ; then off agai~ outside the Moun t, where we met the Lady Jocelyn, looki n ~ so h uge, bein~ towed in by 55. Waitaki, the Albion proceeding on her way to Wellington, we going round and round the Lady Jocelyn, whose hundreds of passengers crowded at the ship's sides to see us-to them old Colonials. The officers and crew were fearfully excited when, having parted her cable. the first anchor dropped, so they let go another, which held just in time and so enabled us to get on board across the Waitaki.

We were cordially greeted by our old friend, Captain Jenkins, and other officers; then made acquaintance with Bob and Frank, our cadets, and by them were introduced to several passengers, with some of whom we became friends, but the majority

we never saw agam.A few hours later the whole of Tauranga-such a

crowd I-came on board and were most festive and so noisy with band, etc., that I was glad to retire with a few friends for tea on the Waitaki and back to Tauranga at 8 with Bob and Frank, ' who went next day with Hugh to see the Lady Jocelyn off to Auckland and brought back their luggage.

We called at various hotels on new arrivals and

ISI 88 ~MY SIMPLE LIFE IN NEW ZEALAND.54

one of which cabbages, weighing 28100., we gave t (1

our near neigh bour, who boiled some for dinner every day lor a week.

Some of our garden experiences were very successful, others quite the reverse ; but we learnt to' bear our disappointments philosophically, though perhap not quite calmly, when we found that our newlypurchased calves had broken through the post and wire fence and had eate n all th e ga rde n cabbages,

ug h, seeing my grief, immediately repa ired . , so we had peace, but not plenty, for '

ristmas was always an extra busy ti me on rhe fa rm, and in those days of reapers without binders i: was necessary to invi te friends, white and Maories, round to help with the ha rvest, and give them a good dinner in the field where they were working, thus enabling them and the horses to have a good hour '; rest in the heat of the day.

On January znd, I88I, we heard the exciting new! that our old ship, the Lady Jocelyn, was in sight, approaching Tauranga, having on board two farm cadets for Athenree and another special settlement party organised by our leader-this time for Te Puke, near Tauranga.

So next morning we got up at 3, had breakfast and walked to Fraser's Point, nearly two miles off, whence in the Canon's boat with a party of his youn~ people we set sail for Tauranga, which, with a fair wind, we reached in four·hours, engaged a room at Grassick's boarding-house, .dined and walked to the wharf, where we found numbers of friends and the "Reception Committee" of leading citizens splerdidly got up for the occasion. - We went on board the 55. K ati K ati and fer

Sb MY SIMPLE LIFE IN NEW ZEA I.AN .... . 1881

went to their reception dance in Lauch's Hall, kept up with great spirit till 3 a.m. The following day-swhen we bought a frame beehive, having had a present of a swarm of bees, which we put on board the Bethi« with our luggage, timber, etc.-we sailed away, getting home safely after six days' absence.

The cadets' first impressions of Athenree were very favourable; they began by helping to land and cart timber and luggage, ana then unpacking and settling their own things, putting outside their door many pairs of boots to be cleaned, and three months' sheets, clothes, etc., for the wash ; the latter Agnes and I did by degrees, packing all away when dry that they would not require at Athenree ; but, like the rest of us" each man had to black his own boots, not one in our 'employ ever having done so for us during our twenty-eight years in New Zealand.

The cadets learnt how to make a stack of oats and thatch it with rushes; they also made themselves useful with horses, riding on errands, etc., and visiting other settlers, whose visits to us became more frequent with new attractions.

Hugh engaged Mike, a tramp, at £1 a week to do more fencing, at which he was expert, so Bob and Frank had the opportunity of learning under him this most necessary work, digging holes, ramming round posts in, driving in wire staples, and laying and straining wires, sometimes seven deep. This same Mike, a tall, fine Irishman, and vain, was very smart on Sundays and limped about in ligh t, high -heelc boots. Having seen mine, which H ugh wa s blacking on trees, he smilingly looked at my feet, then at his own, and said: "Mrs. Stewart, ma'am, would you lend me the loan of your boot-trees to stretch moine, they're too toight ? " So I did.

IRSI MY SIMPLE LIFE IN NEW ZEALAND. 57

Our river being famous for eels, Frank, who was a keen sportsman, took much pleasure in catching some, which I had (after he had skinned them) much pleasure in cooking for his supper.

Having as a visitor a charming English girl called Ada, and being anxious to make the acquaintance of several Mount Stewart cadets, fellow-passengers of Bob and Frank's, we spent an extra busy day roasting lamb, chickens, etc., and making aU sorts of good sweets, and having in. vited over fifty, people,. most of them arrived in drays, on horseback, or on foot, one afternoon for early dinner, followed by tennis and quoits, high tea in the wide verandah, dressing in every available room for the dance that followed, with supper at midnight, soup at 2, and broke up after 3, when the majority rode away, leaving nineteen in the house for breakfast, followed by a picnic on the river-bank, and the following day Ada and the cadets put back carpets, furniture, etp,

Mervyn bein? nOW nearly 10 years old, and my work too pressing to attend regnlarly to his lessons, be rode daily seven miles to the so-called "No. I School," near Mount Stewart-much too far for him and his pony, as we soon 'found out.

Our next unexpected visitor was a travelling photographer, who took several views of the place, charging us 50S. for eighteen copies.

We now gave our usual half-yearly picnic on the Waihi Beach, March being early autumn and almost the most beautiful month in that part of New Zealand, and in drays and on horseback starteda party of over twenty-at 9 a.m.; and having feasted on good things, ail farm produce, including cucumbers, etc., winding up with tea-the water

59 IS81MY SIMPLE LIFE IN NEW ZEALAND.SS.

boiled in a billy, that most useful one-gallon tin with a lid and handle-we got back to Athenree for 9 o'clock supper.

Next day, Bob having had a fall from a horse and hurt his knee, I applied arnica lotion all da y with great success, having taken care to give hi m pillules of the same, thus escaping erysipelas, which in ny ignorance had slightly affected a previous pat ient.

Now our large kitchen clock and others were gong badly after the voyage, and what chance was there of getting them attended to? More than we expected j for one day came riding in a watchmaker from the Thames, a mining town forty miles to the northwards, who put all our timepieces in order at a fair price and night's lodging.

Our importance as farmers seemed rising when ihe local constable called for Agricultur~l Statistics and Census Returns.

All this time Ada was with us, making herself most kindly useful, enjoying riding to races, dances, etc., but also suffering very much from those horrid bo .ls, a plague to most new-comers in New Zealand, and which I did my best to cure with frequent hot poultices. .

Frank, having brought out a splendid outfit and grand Mexican saddle-bags, generally volunteered to

.ride the nine miles to the Uretara for the home rruil. . due once a month via San Francisco. It was quite a load for his horse, as the cadets and ourselves had a large correspondence, also many papers and

magazlOes. As a rule, we all walked on Sundays to Hillside

for Morning or Evening Service, and I made hot- · cross buns on Good Fridays, pan-cakes on Shreve Tuesdays, and, of course, plum-puddings and mince


pies on Christmas Days; thus, as far as possible, in our home in the Antipodes keeping up home customs and traditions.

In these early days we had wonderful crops or tomatoes, far better than in later years, with much more care and cultivation. For instance, on September 23rd, 1880, I sowed in a drill in the garden once ounce of Carter's large red tomato seed; began transplanting them from October zoth to November 17th, on the latter date putting in 700 plants in the cropping-field, which, as in Bermuda, grew at their own sweet will, without pruning or staking, merely laying dried fern and native heather under them, and beginning in February continued till April to yield such a crop that they were brought home in wheelbarrows, sometimes in a dray, and I made many gallons of tomato sauce (selling some of it at IS. 6d. a quart bottle), chutneys and jams, the latter flavoured with lemon or ginger.

With so many cadets, new arrivals from public schools at home, football became popular, especially on Saturday afternoon, the usual Colonial holiday in the country, and it was in Kati Kati that the Gallaghers-one of whom since well known as captain of the All Blacks-learnt the game.

The life and climate of Athenree were most healthy, great hunger and sleep producers. The commissariat, depending mainly on farm produce, needed much time and thought, especially when in May of this year, colder weather having come, Mike killed a bullock (s cwt.), of which we sold about 801bs. at 4d. to four neighbours, each of whom got a present of a shin, and for home use I salted 200Ibs., spiced 2Slbs., and the rest we soon ate in roasts, stews, steaks, soups, etc., inviting all the young people we

60 MY SIMPLE LIFE IN NEW ZE ALAND. 1881

could muster in a hurry for tea, supper, and a dance. Among them were a nephew and niece of Hugh's, eugaged to be married. Their wedding cake I offered to make, with the ass is tance of our nearest neighbour, who sat' up all night t o bake it, 201bs. weight , in our oven, which with so much cooking we could not spa re by day, and the cake-Mrs. Beeton's "Bride "-was a g rea t success anc much enjoyed, when on June 15th the wedding to oc place in the bride's mother's drawing-room, the Cano n officiating. I t was followed by breakfast for twen tyfour, to which I contributed a round of sp iced beef and a mould of creme de volaillo, At 3 o' cleck we gave the young couple a cheery send-off ar.d di spersed, returning home in our dray, iu which ve had given the Canon and his wife a lift.

Hugh's practical R.A. education now serv ed him in good stead a nd en abl ed him to survey and lay. out convenient, well -graded cart-roads all over the farm, instead of the usual bee-line track; v ith a wooden bridge across the river, in st ead of the usual steeply-approached ford, generally shallow, but, after heavy rain, sometimes danger ously deep. This bridge connected the tw o sides of our farm a nd was most use ful for cart ing post s and rails for fencing from th e bush, and gra ss an d clover seed for sowing on the cl eared land, and me, with a hot dinner for Hugh and all hands when they were working. .

About this time Lou married, 'set t led on a sheepst ation near Marton, and our lives drifted apart for with the exception of one short visit t o Athenree a year or two aft er with her baby-boy, we never met again, women's lives in New Zealand being too busy to admit of much travelling, which, moreover,

1881 MY SIM PLE LIFE I N NE W ZEALAND. 61

in tho:,e early days , was most in convenient and expens rve.

Am ong all our gues ts the m nch-wish ed-for travellin g t ail or had not yet appe ared. T he refore, w ith so many me n about the place, their clothes severely tried in the bu sh, on hor seb ack, etc., my serv ices were fre quently re q uisition ed , beginni ng by m aking for Merv yn 's comfort in hi s dai ly ride t o sch ool a pair of riding trousers out o f Hugh's regime ntals . These were su ch a su ccess that th er e was nothing the cadet s d id no t ask me to do, from strapping their riding breeches to re-lining a dress-coat. Bein g winter aga in (july), there were pl enty of wet days fo r this work; the afte rnoo ns of the fine ones I devot ed afte r househ old d ut ies, from 7 a.rn, t o 2.30

p .m., as recreation to gardening, a nd, with Agnes' help, mad e anot he r I, ooo-plant straw berry bed a nd plante d hundreds o f cabbages a nd caul iflowers from seeds I had sown in March. In Sep tember I so we d some stones of dried dates I had eaten, which in six m ouths had gr own into little two-leaved palms six in ches high, but havin g very lon g t ender tap-roots. Few su rv ived t ra nspl anting; those that did made very slow growt h, bu t were graceful, pretty shrubs.

grassAn other cr op that fail ed was J ob' s tear·· , st ro ng ly recommended in t hose early days of shortfeed as "splendid fodder for stock and horses ;" we tried it in drill s, on ploughed la nd ' an d sur faceso w ing . So me gre w into la rge plan ts, but it had suc h a st rong: pec uliar smell tha t not a single animal would touch it, but rat her, afte r one sniff, would tu rn away d isgusted. An d so with many more experiments which in our zeal and wish to satisfy t hu nger of all the animals we were accum ulati ng we p erseveri ngly mad e. The soil was so light tha t a

62 MY SIMPLE LIFE IN NEW ZE ALAND . (.8t

horse-roller became a necessity. and Hugh rnaue a fine one of the ha rd puriri wood in the bush whch lasted all our time at Athenree and was. with most of

ur farm implements, ofte n lent to neighbours. October. as usual. brought im perative gardeni 'l

work, that t iresome sorrel becoming more and mae a pest. I n hopes of dest roying it, I took advice a in a bucket mixed arsenic with water, st irr ed it we 1, an d, so armed, started for the garden, when 1 WiS

ca lled back to feed a tramp, a nd while so doi ng rry ducks sampled the con tents of th e bucket, which almost instantly killed three of them. After su sad experience, I was more careful in futu re and a similar disas ter never happened aga in. T he rest of the poison killed all the surface sorrel, but had m effect on the roots, which took years of patient digging with a fork t o eradicate. Strawberries were now so plentiful that, eat them as we would , served in a soup-tureen with cream, invite our friends te bring baskets and pick for themselves, or pay cadet> halfpenny a pound to get them picked for myself there were such quantities that I made 2871bs. jam. Then, in February, peaches ripened quickly: and in that hottest of months I made 4071bs. of jam of them. I did the same with small lots of preserved tomatoes and pumpkins, making a grand total of 7601bs. Thus I was prepared for a siege and stood it.

The husband of my friendly Irish neighbour having decided to give up farming and take to business, to which - he had been brought up, we regretfully, at the thought, of losing her and my

;

'Ipretty little god-daughter, bought such furniture as they wished to dispose of and her poultry, over which I was now growing enthusiastic, and so continued to the end, having eggs all the year round and poultry


in some form or other always available for our own table and the surplus for sale. In November of this year (1881) vve had another visit from the Bishop, whom we were delighted to entertain for the night, and whos e kind sympathy I mnch appreciated when he found that Agnes had at length yielded to her friend's pertinacity and had decided to go to her. Annie, another settler's daughter, was much youllger, but I was thankful to get her. Our kind neighbour, t he Genera l, just at this time also left Kati Kat i to live in Auckland, so we began to feel lonely and comforted ourselves a little hy giving the name" General" to a good horse we bought from him for [,ro.

G. V. S. having declared his intention of standing for Parliament, Hugh, attended by Mike, rode off one morning to Waihi, Waitekauri and Paeroa to canvass for him, and a lively time Hugh had with his zealous hench man, who fought literally and metaphorically am ong the miners for the good cause (unfortunately unsuccessfully), and by his unsteady seat on his horse ga ve H ugh next day no end offrouble during the weary twenty miles' ride home. Mervyn's holidays having on December roth begun (Agnes and Annie left in charge of Athenree, as far as my work was concerned). he and I on the zrst rode to Larkspur to spend a night with Hugh's sister, next morning visiting for the first time th e local stores and Post Office and various friends, meeting on our way our genial young storekeeper riding to his wedding in the bride's sister's house. It was a long day for Mervyn and me, as we wer e not home till 10 o'clock.

Next day brought extra work to make up for my holiday, especially with Christmas so near and no end of visitors expected. We decorated the house with ferns and flowers (no holly or mistletoe at mid

!


summer), and Christmas Day was most brirht and beautiful. We had a good, old-fashioned English dinner at I, and all went to Hillside for Evening Service, my two girls getting their holiday rext day and leaving me in sale charge.

On 29th came from the Bluff a wire from Illy dear and only brother Jock, Poona Horse, on sicl leave, saying he and his wife h oped to be with us in a few days, having had 88 days' pleasant sail from Plymouth to Sydney, thence to New Zealand. But there was no time to dwell on this joy for a dozen moo soon appeared to help cut oats, and the girls having come back we took dinner to them in the field and gave them supper when they came home. All m) spare minutes were devoted to making the travellers' rooms as comfortable as possible and getting myself up as becomingly as circumstances permitted in orcer not to be too great a shock to my brother after eleven years' separation. On January 4th, 1882, we met in our verandah, they having driven from Taurarga, he looking very, very ill, having suffered much ha-dship and privation in the Afghan campaign, of wh.ch he told us a pleasant incident. On his march bick to India he was in company with a cer tain battery of Artillery; recognising it as formerly Hugh's, he enquired if any of the men remembered him; some did, among them a fine young Sergeant-Major Stuckfield, who had been Hugh's soldier-servant in Portsmouth, and left us to go to India, where le got rapid promotion. Having obtained Our address from my brother, he wrote Hugh a letter of most respectful devotion and enquiries for Missus and the baby."U

He was very anxious to come to New Zealandif his service in the R.A. would ensure him employment, which in those days was not at all likely, aid so . ended this pleasant little episode.


So proud was I of my brother and his wife that I invited all our friends and Hugh's relations (nearly 100) to m eet them at a dance on January r St h. : I n the meantime three more ca de ts, Harry; Herbert and Charlie, arrived from home, so a t la st all our spare ro oms were occupied and w e did not feel lonely. The work alone would have been snfficien t to debar that, but now it was interpersed with" play," many of ou r guests being delighted to h elp me at cake-making a nd the endless good things for s upper. Bread had t o be baked-every day except Sunday, so that we imported half a to n of flour a t a t ime whe n the roads were

od and rain not fall ing, using 1001bs. of flour a week, al ways remenhering to keep up . the supply of yeast, wh ich was also h ome-made. When I had en minu tes to sp are they h ad to be devot ed to the

pia no, for th e cadet s had brought out the newe st valses, which I had to learn for th e r Sth, F ra nk alo ne being able to play. This reminds m e of a n amusing in cident.

On the night of the dance, when th e fun was at its h eight, I sm elt fire, and in a wo oden house was natura lly alarme d. My olfactory nerves were peculiarly sensitive. No one else having been ro used , I sniffed ab ont dog-like and ran th e scent to earth in the ball-room, whispered t o Frank, th e pian ist, to "stop," as I th onght the h ouse was on fire; together we walk ed all over the pla ce, the smell st ill close by ; a t last,in hi s qni et way h e remarked, " By jove, it's my

ipe," and th ere sure eno ugh was a hole in his dr ess coat, slowly burnt through by hi s hot pip e, which he had hurriedly put in his p ocket when I had asked him t o pl ay.

F or the dance our preparations were manifol d, added to the daily routin e of providing everything


from start to finish for at least twelve people. The cad ets were most lively and good-nat ured at furniture removal, carpet lifting, floor polishing, etc, The verandah was filled with easy ch airs, sofas, et c., with cosy corners in every available spot. We had picnic dinner and tea for all in kitchen, anywhere : then there was eagerness to dress before 8 o'clock, the appointed hour. Every room was filled will pounds of candles alight, the reception rooms be.ng illuminated by endless keros ene ' lamps, which I had trimmed and filled in the morning. I had lud scant time to transfer myself into black velvet, p ci nt lace and diamonds. when the sound of wheels merle itself heard on the shelled drive and out of a ca rl issued our first guests, well pro tected against the rain, which was co ming down in torrents, and so into my r rnm, the ladies' cloak room (H ugh's dressing roon being for the gentlemen), to titivate. The next a r rivals, and the next and the next, were riding, some having come 12 or 14 miles. The squish squash of their habits as they streamed into my room was a caut ioi . My wardrobe of dry clothes I put at their disposil, th en ran to this room with pins, to that with a sh irt stud , and to all with button-holes, until hy degrees we 'mustered sixty stroug in the dining-room lor tea, coffee, sandwiches and cakes, which were pat.onised steadily for two hours, dancing having begun soon after 8 o'clock to the strains of music kindly provided by various young friends. All our rooms were plentifully furnished with doors and, French windcws, so at 10 o'clock all of the dining-room were locked, and from the kitchen, larder, store-rooms, &c., we covered th e table wjth turkeys, hams, fowls pies, jellies, creams, trifles, etc., my velvet train being much in the way. But the pretty, well-ordered, gay


scene in the ball-room was worth all the trouble, and so we continued to find it during all the after years of our sojourn at Athenree. There were twenty-eight dances on the programme, including a Scotch reel and the Cotillon. Having had hot soup at 2 a.m., several extras, winding up with Sir Roger de Coverley, they dispersed between 4 and 5 o'clock in broad daylight, many more than we had provided for sleeping in the house, as Hugh found when, hungry for breakfast at eleven, he went prospecting and found sleepers in rugs coiled up in floor corners all over the rooms, the majority being new chum cadets whose horses had got away during the night. So we all met at lunch time, and willing hands (for it was a pouring wet day) put the house in order once more.

On February rst, having an enormous pile of socks to mend, my sister-in-law and I were busy working and chatting in the drawing-room. Presently we heard a distant rumbiing, which gradually increased and, seeming to come nearer, we remarked, "It sounds like galloping horses." Soon the house began to shake and sway, the bay window to rattle violently, and everything to feel altogether most weird and uncomfortable. "It must be an earthquake," we said to one another; and so it was. A very disagreeable experience--our first but by no means our last in this land of volcanoes, craters, geysers, and hotsprings.

My brother being fond of horses and races deter' min ed to patronise the Kati Kati races on February 8th and insisted that I should go too ; so having borrowed a spring cart he drove me the nine miles there, the rest of our party riding. What a day we\ had with amateur jockeys, half-broken race horses and very, very enthusiastic, excited natives. The fun was fast and -furious, when rain came on, so suddenly

68 MY SIM?LE LIFE IN NEW ZEALAND. 1882

and heavily that the crowd, white and brown, in gayest holiday attire, soon dispersed.

The following day I spent all my spare moments making peach jam (ISO lbs.), Annie had left to help her mother, but she was, luckily for me, soon replaced by Mary Ann at I2S. 6d. a week. She was a neighbour's sister and a capital servant, who eventually married Tom, and is the prosperous mother of a fine family. "

On February 14th we all rode over to Mount Stewart for a dance given by the cadets "there arid enjoyed it very much, riding home in brilliant sunshine at 7 a.rn, I went to work without going to bed.

From February 27th to March 3rd it rained almost incessantly-an idle time for men, who stood round the kitchen fire watching cooking operations and groomed their horses, trimmed manes, tails, etc., at intervals. For us women it was a trying time of mud, dirt and wet clothes. Besides, our regular Monday's washing, at this time over 200 pieces, was for five days hanging on the lines, until at la.st the sun came out, a breeze sprang up and our troubles for this time were at an end.

My brother suggested a moonlight picnic on the Waihi beach, so having folded, mangled and -put away the clothes, we set to work and made all sorts of cakes, pies and sausage-rolls, reserving piles of sandwiches till to-morrow. Then after early dinner we started, a party ofthirty, in carts and on horseback, to the beautiful Waihi Beach spring, where the boys lit a fire, boiled water in billies, made tea and feasted. Then followed songs, dances and athletic sports on the sands, and so home at one in the morning by moonlight. That had to be a busy day,

Bullock Team in the' Bush ,


because, leaving Agnes and Mary Anne in charge, Hugh, Jock and I drove to the Uretara H otel, the most comfortable old-world inn kept for many years in the best style by Mr. and Mrs. McDonnell, T he following morning Louie joined us and we four soon started by four-horse coach to T auranga, about thir seven miles of monotonously uninteresting, ill-laid-out roads, through lonely, lifeless country. We put up comfortably at Bellevue House; the following -morning breakfasted at 6.30, and in a coach and four started on a forty miles ' drive to the famous Hot Lakes. We had lovely views of sea and forest to Oropi where, after their twelve miles' pull, the horses were watered. Then on through splendid bush (forest) to Tererenga, where, having to wait over two hours by a road-side clearing for change of horses (an incoming team from the Hot Lakes) we ate our

.picnic lunch and at length continued our drive through this now rather depressing, because perfectly sunless, silent bush over nineteen bridges and a very rough corduroy road (a mud-track solidified with fallen trees laid side by side as close as irregular growth and knots would allow) till we reached Lake House, Ohinemutu,in time for 6 o'clock dinner, which was a very good one at pretty tables, with civil attendants and guests innumerable, it being now March 7th, the height of the season, mainly for rich Australians, health or pleasure-seeking. The charge was lOS. a day including baths attached to the hotel. The following morning with a native guide we went sight-seeing in the near neighbourhood to Sulphur Point; the Ruranga or meeting house and marvellous hot and cold sulphur springs, in those days quite open, unfenced and dangerous to visitors, who would get terribly scalded if by a false step along the narrow

FWairoa Bridge between Kat; Kati and Taur-anga.

71 70 MY SIMPLE LIFE IN NEW ZE ALAND. 1882

tracks, t hey stepped int o a boiling pool where the natives were cooking, washing, etc., al fresco. After lunch we went by coach ( 2~ mil es) to W hakarewar ewa, a region of geysers, boilin g springs and sulphur holes, at each of which a t oll was clamoured for by the covetous natives. Thence we went on by a good road, past two lovely little lakes, one blue, the other green, and through a short bit of pretty bush a few miles to W airoa, the scen e in after years of a terrible volcanic eruption, whi ch demolish ed McRae's hotel, where we now put up at 12S. 6d. a .day. After tea, spoilt with condensed milk-compulsory there, where the natives would not allow a cow to be keptwe took a walk to a pr etty waterfall and to the picturesque old mission station, afterwards completely destroyed and valuable lives lost in the eruption and earthquake. After a very plain dinner at which the Maoris in the verandah outside watched us with envious eyes, greatly to the disgust of my brother, who wanted to disperse them as he would have th e natives in India, but was dissuaded imploringly by McRae, we retired to rest and started next

,'. morning at 6 with the well -known guide, Sophia, a party of nine (two men and two lady touris ts having asked leave to join us), in a large boat pulled by eight st alwart Maoris nine miles across Lake' Tarawera, W e stopped half way at a native settlement, where for I S. a kit they sold us prawns, peaches and apples. After la nding we walked Over a mile of desolate teatree and scrub (rough undergrowth) country to a stream, which we cro ssed in a canoe and soon reached on foot the far-famed Lake Rotomahana, on th is side

. sheltered by the marvellously beautiful white terra ces, and on the other by the pin k. Through warm, blue pools in white basins we calmly walked, following


Sophia closely one by one like ducks. From time to time she anxiously counted us. We were shown hot mudholes, steam bursting out of bottomless pits, Maori " porridge," which Sophia made us taste off the end of astick, assuring us we "couldlive on it." We preferred to reserve our appetites for lunch on the shore of the lake of prawns and potatoes, cooked before our eyes in transparent kits in a boiling spring, tinned meat, br ead and jam, lemonade and gingerbeer, supplied from our hotel. Immediately after this we crossed Lake Rotomahana in a canoe, ascended the rosy pink terraces and, as part of the programme, were told by Sophia to undress behind some tea-tree bushes and bathe in this mostdeliciously warm water, in which I could willingly have laid down and gon e to sleep. After a few minutes' dip it left such a feeling of drowsiness, lassitude and thirst (with water, water everywhere but ne'er a drop to drink), that for the rest of the day 1 sincerely wished I had 1Wt bathed after a good lunch. After dressing we ladies changed places .with the men, who then had their bathe. We went back as we came, only by canoe to Lake Tarawera instead of walking. When about half-way across the lak e down came a deluge of rain, so that wet, tired and thirsty on reaching McRae's hotel at 4 o'clock, we were delighted to find that a coach with passengers from Lake House was waiting to take us back to those comfortable quarters, where my brother spent a fortnight, enjoying baths and his health deriving much benefit therefrom. But Hugh and I must needs hurry back to Athenree after our six days' absence, having very much enjoyed the holiday and wonderful sights, the most beautiful of which, the terraces, were in after years so completely destroyed.


My brother's three months' visit was now unluckily coming to an end, so we issued eighty invitations, and on April nth gave him and his wife a farewell dance on the same lines as that of January ·28th. It was equally successsful, if not more so, because it was a fine instead of a wet night and the lawn and walks were patronised between dances.

Next day was given to packing up and" good-bye" to the dear couple (who travelled via Melbourne to Bombay, arriving there on June rst) for ever in this world to my brother, who passed away at Aden in r893.

On May 24th-a holiday, of course-all the cadets (six at this time) rode to the opening of the Waihi Gold Battery-an important event, the beginning of great riches for that locality. It was only nine miles from Athenree, but unfortunately we never availed ourselves of its benefits, but, on the contrary, suffered as employers from ever-increasing wages and difficulty of getting help, which ultimately forced us to leave the country. In those early days we were well off, as, for instance, on this general holiday, when Willie, a young Scotsman whom Hugh employed, offered to dig my flower-borders rather than see me do it. So clever and obliging was he that we could not hope to keep him long, and, having heard of a good opening, he left us for Wyoming, where he soon became a very prosperous settler.

As usual, the month of May!brought plenty c. rain, but a certain Monday being fine, after washing, cooking and preparing supper, I was fortunate in enlisting a company of four cadets, and before dark we planted 3,500 cabbages for cow-feed. For them that night's rain was welcome, and induced us next day to plant 2,000 more, also a hundred young trees

rR82 MY SIMPLE LIFE IN NEW ZEALAND. 73

pinus maritimus, cupressus macrocarpa, blue gums and red gums-from my nursery, which 'afforded hundreds more during the season; so that our bare, treeless home was now growing quite wooded and picturesque.

Each cadet having a horse, they took great interest in building and roofing stables, furnishing stalls and making everything ship-shape on the site of the original" Stables "-our present house. But the new buildings were less elaborate and costly, according to our modified views after four years' experience. With help whenever available, I made another 800 plants strawberry bed, and next summer had such a crop that I made of strawberry jam alone 2211bs.

Mervyn, now past II years old, was getting on very well at school, but the seven miles' ride five days a week there and back was too much for him and his pony, 'who seemed likely to succumb; so Mervyn stopped with his grandparents at Martray, only a mile from school, and walked home, soinetimes for the night and so back to school next day, thus accomplishing a record attendance under most trying circumstances. He was, in fact, training to be an unusually good walker as years went on, and emulated Hugh and me, who never were as fond of riding as were most of the new settlers and all colonialsborn. Thus, after a very busy morning's baking, cooking, etc., Charlie the cadet, a great mountainclimber, persuaded Hugh and me after early dinner to take a two or three miles' walk to the foot and then climb to the top of Mount Hikurangi, 1,240 feet, which was pleasant, and oh what a lovely view of mountains, plains and Pacific Ocean in this wonderfully clear air! After resting awhile, we commenced the steep descent, much more fatiguing than the

/


ascent, with most insecure foothold on rocky slopes. Kind Charlie allowed me to use his sure foot as a st ep now and again, and thus I got down safely after a four and a-half honrs' walk, one of our cats leading the way for the whole distance. In August we had Some very cold weather. and Hugh was for a few days troubled with chilblains, but was able to walk round the farm to look after the' ewes and their tiny lambs, also two of our poor cows who had been "tutu'd" and were dying by inches in remote places, to which we carried kerosene for medicine and gruel for nourishment, but all, alas! of no avail.

At the end of onr fourth year I had become an enthusiastic gardener and so continued, finding far more pleasure in growing flowers, vegetables and trees than in any other occupation. The cadets dug a very long four-feet-wide border as an edge to one side of the lawn, and in it we planted everything that would look pretty one foot apart. A blue gum and a Cloth of Gold rose-cutting, side by side, had a close race, so that when we left, twenty-four years later, they had attained a height of the gum roo feet and the rose 60 feet. They were in beautiful ent anglement-the admiration of the country-side. Having been accustomed to a great deal of rain in Aagust, absolutely necessary for the planting of evergreens in this light, dry soil, on August 23rd, among other trees, we planted fifty stone pines, securing them with stakes on their steep hillside. Not one survived the ensuing fortnight, when there was absolutely no rain. We spent those days seed-sowing, chiefly along the post and wire fences, an Australian plant called hakea, evergreen and prickly, bnt apt to die suddenly and unexpectedly at any stage, thus leaving an objectionable gap. Another great drawback was that


its large pods burst and sent their winged seeds in every direction, creating another noxious weed.

Our primitive open-air washhouse was now being turned into a laundry, a bricklayer at lOS. a day and "tucker" (food consisting of three meat meals) having come to build a chimney, which, with brick stands for two copper boilers, took him a week, but proved for ever after the greatest comfort. The larger one had a capacity of 25 gallons for boiling clothes, the other IS gallons for jams, hop-beer, etc., etc.

With such frequent changes of temperature, dress was a puzzle, and so to his cost Frank found it, wearing Scotch tweeds one day and white drill the next. He got a yery bad cold with rheumatism and lay in bed for days unable to move without help. But there being no doctor nearer than Tauranga (37 miles), he recovered under my care and nursing--a labour of love-he being the nicest boy we had ever met. After he had stopped with us nearly two years, he went home again, then tried Mexico, Texas. aud finally Mashonaland, where, having risen to be a J.P. and Mining Commissioner, he died of fever at Fort Salisbury, at the early age of 33, regretted by all who knew him.

On October 9th, r882, Hngh, Mervyn and I got u p

at 3 a.m, to see the cornet-a splendid sight-in , cloudless sky. This was a very dry spring, when strawberries were in perfection and much appreciated. Another cadet (Edmund) arrived, all enthusiastic sportsman and gardener, who revelled in his quarters and was most useful aud cheery during the sixteen months he spent with us, taking a tu rn at all kinds of work; supplying us with fish and game and eventually getting an appointment in Borneo.

76 MY SI MPLE LIF E IN NEW ZEAL AND.

The road having at last been completed T hames t o T auranga (eighty miles), a coach to carr y mails and passengers sta rted running .

• W ith many changes of horses, it trip, from 6 a.m. to 6 p. m. It ca rried onr letters an papers in a bag, for which H ugh paid £2 a year . aw aited the coach at the cr oss-roads, yards from our gates.

OUf bee-farm was ra pidly increasing-ultima.tely we had thirty fram e-hives-a swa rm t wo a day having to be h ived. This busiest, hottest tim e of day, but at this operat ion one seldo m got stung. It was that th e protect ion of veil, g loves, etc ., was needed.

r8~3 began very happily, with th e news of t he immediate arrival of my step-father, wh om I ca lled "the Gov.," and A. B., his wife, from home, so we sent out invitations for a dan ce on ] anuary ro th, and gave final touch es to our expected visit ors' rooms, These were all ready when they a rrived by coach from the T hames, more than forty miles, declaring they were " not in th e least tired," but quir e del ighted with the drive. They proved the easiest of guests, ad apting themselves t o th eir novel surroundings and helping in every possible way- A. B. doing the flowers with exquisite tast e, pic king and shelling peas, etc . ; while Hugh took th e" Gov." for a ride. Our party form ed a large part of th e congregation at Morning Service at Hillsid e, where we were refreshed with peaches and other seasonable fruit s grown by th e Canon. A. B., who had always been devoted to ridi r-« at hom e, to ok to it again in New Z ealand, and got all the pleasure she could out of life in the Antipo des. Our dan ce on the ro th was an other grea t success, kept up with th e usual

from four-h orse

was a tw elve-hours '

H e two hu ndre

and some ti mes occu rred at th e

onl y wh en tak ing hon ey

r 883

M ain Street, Waihi , show in g Martha Hil l.

Typical Bush Scene.

I883 MY Sn IPLE LI FE IN NEW ZE ALA XD. 77

spmt fro m 8 p.m, to 5 a.m, on rzth, all th e work being do ne by ourselves.

Mervyn being nearly twelve years old, we decid ed by our Bi sh op's advice t o send him to th e Chu rch of E ng land Gram mar Sc hool in Aucklan d, wh ere the B ishop 's three sons were being ed ucate d, so I packed his clothes and my own to acco mpany him, with th e " Gov." as ou r esco rt . H aving se tt led a ll in th e honse, after waiting more th an an ho ur at the cross roads on a Saturday , we saw th e over-loaded coach approaching . T hen a sho ut from th e driver , "Full up," a crack of the wh ip, and away they went, leaving us to come hom e agai n crestfallen and limp, to awai t Tuesday's coach, wh ich ca rried us safely via \Vaihi an d Paeroa to t he Tham es. H ere at th e Pacific H otel we put np for th e night, leav ing next mo rning at II o'clock by steamer. \Ve had dinner on board, an d a rrived in Auck lan d at 3 o 'clock. \ Ve drove to the Ch urch of E ng land. Grammar Sch ool, whe re we fonnd the Bis hop distributing prizes, afte r which he took us to Bis hop's Court for tea with Mrs. Cowie, wh o, with her usual kindness, promised to look after Mer vyn at schoo l, and very often in vit ed him to Bish op' s Co urt, wher e th ere were beautiful grou nds an d orc hard . Next day was devot ed to shopping, and by night-steamer the" Gov." and I went back to the Thames, went ashore at 5 a .m., go t into th e coach at 6, br eakfa sted at Hikut aia H ot el on co ld m utt on and doubtful eggs, and reached home at z p. rn., just in time to welcome from home, H enry, ano ther cadet, Harry having left for India ea rly in the month . T he weather being at its hott est and finest February, all our relation s and A. B . 's (of wh om she had se vera l in the settlement) came to see her and the" Gov."-some to show their new babi es.


Without nurse or nursery we all dined together, being on one occasion a party of twenty-one, one young mother and her three months' old daughter paying us a fortnight's visit. Some of our fields were now white with mushrooms, and they were brought home in such quantities that there were mushrooms in every corner of larder, kitchen, store room, etc. We cook ed them three ti mes a day and made quarts of ketchup, the intervening times being occupied with peach preserves of every kind. This amused everybody when from February roth to 25th it rained incessantly, so that our river was flooded to a greater extent than we had ever seen it, and many low-lying fields were under water. When it cleared up the cadets went out shooting and fishing, one bringing in five birds and an other fifte en fish, all of which" needed immediate attention, " so I was told. March 14th being the" Gov's " seventieth birthday, he celebrated it by giving me a comfortable buggy, considering the dray rather too rough.

One day we all drove to Mount Stewart, where the orchard was a perfect sight, with grapes, rock a nd water melons, cucumbers, etc., of all of which we were urged to eat, and to carry away as much as we liked. The" Gov." and A. B. sp ent a couple of days with Hugh's parents, returning to us to pack up for the Hot Lakes via Tauranga, to which they went by coach on March 28th, the finest month, coming back to Athenree in June. Being uow "carriagefolk," and therefore able to get more quickly over the gr ound than in a cart, we went out a little more, one Sunday to Hillside for Morning Service, and · on to Martray for dinner. Having picked up a niece and two babies en route, disaster ensued, for our axle broke and we all sat down in th e soft mud road,


quite unhurt, but obliged to finish our trip on foot, and with humbled pride take to a cart again for the return journey. Towards the middle of April we had a whole week of heavy rain, during which appeared from the Thames an old tramp, wet through, asking for " tucker," which he got j then for a "job," which we promised him; and then for a "suit of dry clothes, because I'm subject to rheumatic fever, and I'll be laid up here for six weeks if I keep on these wet clothes i" so of course Hugh supplied him, whereupon the old fellow disappeared, went to bed in one of th e ., shakedowns" we had provided for such, and st opped there for two days, tolerably satisfied with his quarters and the food I carried to him ; but, being much too tired to work, he said he would move on when he got his wages, ros. for a week !

The torrents of rain had so deepened and widened the un bridged rivers that the coach was stopped and the mails were carried on a pack-horse. Even that was te rr ibly dangerous and fatal to a fine lad (the sa.me that had driven us from Tauranga to Ohinemutu) who, clad in oil-skins, plunged into a river; he and his horses bein g carried away by the current were drowned, on ly his little fox-terrier swimming safely across. In April or May we always started a drawingroom fire towards 5 o'clock, and st opped it in October or November. We seldom had a fire all day because of the trouble of looking after it, most of my time being spent in the kitchen, the men being generally out, but visitors were welcome to keep up a fire for themselves. On May 4th Mervyn came home for holidays till eSth, looking- tall and thin; his reports were very good. Honours were crowding on Hugh, too, when he was elected Chairman of the Road Board. OR .May 24th we got a case from Mason's

80 MY SI MPLE LIFE IN NEW ZEALA ND. 1883

Nursery, Auckland, containi ng Lisbon, mammoth, sweet and variegated lemons, cit rons, limes and shaddocks, twenty-four trees in all, which we planted in a sheltered spot at the foot of t he lawn, and in all the after-years we weeded and I t fed " them so well that they yielded beautiful fru it in great quan tities.

he Lisbon lemons were by far th e most profitable. T hey had a ready sale at 6d. per dozen, prices having gone down since we landed in T auranga and for the fir st time saw a lemon-tree ! Ha ving planted and st aked th ese tr ees, we next day atte nded t o th e flowerbed s, my spec ial joy, and near th e verandah we put in daphnes, diosm a, lib onia, rhyncosphermum , jasmi noides, and roses, the best of all; and round and about th e lawn, pomegranates, India rubber, fuch sias, magnolias, carnelias , rhododendrons, azaleas, olea n der s, hydrangeas.

-On J un e 5th, the G ov. and A.B. cam e back acc ompanied by our old friend L ou and her six months' old boy, all of whom, of course, we were delighted to see. Naturally, th ey wanted a fire all day long in the cold a nd wet, so we inv ested in our firs t coal, £3 a ton, to save the labour of wood-cutting, always difficulty. Seeing this, th e G ov. an d A.B. almost daily took a walk about the farm and brou ght home dry kindling-sticks to start the fir e. Theyaccommodated themselves most admirably to colonial life, A.B. spending her mornings helping me in the house at jam-making, ironing, mending, etc. ; and the G ov. so busy with Hugh in his workshop constructing hiv es, gates, etc., th at wh en a t 1 o'clock the usually welcome dinner-bell rang, he frequently ejaculated, so interested was he in hi s work, "Bother that bell!" On the last day of June, after many very wet days, . it was so fine that we all a scended Hikurangi, I for I the second, a nd as it proved, last time.

. \

81 MY SIMPLE LIFE IN NE W ZEALA ND. 1883

Bob took round invitations for a dance on July l oth, and in the very nick of time R amsay, a travelling piano-tuner, called and put our Broadwood in order. Preparations for the ball- supper, in addition to the daily meals for our large househ old, made cooking pa ra moun t. A.B. sho wed us how to bon e turkeys, which wer e filled with ton gu e, stuffing, etc. We made pigeon pies, cremes de volaille, jeil ies, creams, trifles, etc., ad li b. The ro th ope ned with torrents of rain, dr eadful for preparations; sti ll we went on . The good-na ture d German driver of th e s to re-car t, wh o usu ally turned up at dinner time, seeing my anx iet y, ch eerily sai d : "Keep up , Missus, dey'll a ll come" ; so th e cadets wit h plaids mad e cos y nooks in the ver andah. At sunset th e weather cleared and continued to improve, so th at over forty (all but very di stant friends) turned up, had a very gay night and danced till daylight, when aft er a few hours' rest, all go t up, shook and re-laid carpets ; and being comfor tably sett led, I helped our gues ts to

pack. Punctually at 9 o'clock the following morning,

July rzth, th e G ov ., A.B., Lou and her so n, with much lu ggage, left in a coac h a nd five for Tauranga, thirty-five miles. They were nearly twenty-four hours on the ro-ad on account of its muddy, soft st at e a nd their he avy load. They had three breakdowns, th e use of fifteen horses all t old, and invasion in the middle of the night of a roadside settle r's home for shelter whil e help was co ming. But they bore it chee-rfully, and for many years loved to speak of this and othe r adventures in New Zealand.

After seeing them off from Athenree Hugh and I drove to Martray for the old folks' entertainme nt of the Orangemen, wh o marched in with drums, fifes

82 MY SIMPLE LIFE IN NEW ZEALAND. r883 and flags. A party of twenty-four sat down to dinner, followed by loyal speeches and songs. On our return home we let Agnes and Mary Anne ride to the Uretara for the Orangemen's ball in their hall in the township, from which they did not return till 7 a.rn, Having changed their dresses they at once sat down to milk the cows, as the day wore on taking a nap now and again over their work!

On August 23rd of this year, 1883, we awoke to find the distant mountain ranges white with snow, and how we felt the cold! Fires were going all day, which the cadets kept warm! This unexpected cold was very trying to all.

Mervyn came back from school in Auckland, looking delicate and ,with a cough. At the same time we heard of the resignation of the headmaster, so somewha t reluctantly We decided to keep our boy at home and ourselves educate h im- a n arrangement I have ver sin ce regretted, as it debarred him from associaion a nd compet iti on with others, whi ch would prob

ab ly have led to h is entering some professio n in wh ich his energies wou ld have had a wider Scope than in the ro utine of farm-life and local poliric s.

nst when the numerous merr's wardrobes were all needing repairs, more than I could accomplish With so much other harder work and inabili ty to rest however much needed, a travelling t ailor called, asked .or work and got it at 5s. a day. with board an d lodging, and was kept busy for a week or cwo The we had a few days' VIsit [rom a yo ung E nghsl martyr !O a.:.-thUla.. wh o, feehng vel)' ill, persu!l.deo me

{J pinch the flesh of h is terribly spotted arm, Jnt which he injected morphia, a sensat ion I sha ll never forcet,

ur next visitor was a young Voakes from South


Africa, who, wet through walking from the Thames, called in for" tucker and a shake down j" he got them, and Hugh engaged him to fix a pump in the well and do some fencing. When digging post-holes he always finished up with his hands, minutely examining the earth in hopes of finding diamonds as he had done in Kimberley, S.A.

Having a limited water-supply from the well only, and having always regretted the waste of rain water off our large roof-surface, Hugh engaged Montgornery, the bricklayer, again, and with other help dug out a large underground tank with a capacity of 6,000 gallons, to which Montgomery gave brick walls and cement. This for the future kept us well off for rain water. _

Ffom earliest days we, especially Hugh, had never been satisfied with our 300 acres, because we had no easy access to the sea, from which we were divided by a road and 160 acres of Government land.

In October, 1883, this Lot 94 was offered for sale. In our own buggy, with a pair of horses, Hugh and I

. started on 23rd for Tauranga, feeding ourselves and horses by the roadside en route and putting up at Menzies' very comfortable hotel. At the Sale by Auction next day Hugh bid up to his limit, £200, and the Lot fell to a stranger for £210. Very much disappointed we harnessed up and got home in the middle of the night. That land is still desolate and uncultivated, being held by the purchaser" for a rise," and we never accomplished a short cut to the sea.

December came again with ever-increasing work, for it was shearing-time, and I had nine men all told to cook for; their work was stopped more than once by sudden heavy rain, and then there was a general .. loaf" for the men!

84 MY SIMPLE LIFE IN NEW ZEALAND,. r884

1884 began very gaily for Hugh and me, for we drove to the eight miles' distant lovely -home of friends, whose little daughter was to be christened in the drawing-room. There was a large gathering of mutual acquaintances for the ceremony and then a sumptuous repast of so many courses that we were filled with admiration and astonishment.

One day's holiday meant double work on the following day, and it being a very hot one, I did not enjoy churning, the butter being so soft that I could do nothing with it. However, I got up next morning at 5 o'clock, found my I) lbs, butter quite firm, and a few hours later sold it for rod. per lb. to holiday-makers camped on the Waihi Beach; so I began making money j

On January zath, when we had all, after breakfast, scattered to our various occupations, a wonderful crowd appeared at our gates, all Maoris', in buggies and on horseback. On inquiry we found it was Te Kooti, with over a hundred followers, making a sort of royal tour through the country.

This Te Kooti was a famous rebel leader who had been amnestied not long before, after having main tained a guerilla resistance, accompanied by some cruel massacres, for many years after our "Kingite" neighbours had accepted British authority. He was allowed a strong armed bodyguard, as otherwise relatives of those net'fives who fell in the Poverty Bay massacres would have sought revenge. Some, however-among whom was a French half-caste in our neighbourhood-had a superstition that it would be impossible to hit him.

Out of his buggy he stepped, motioned to two fine Maoris with loaded guns to follow him, and asked for "a drink." We invi ted him in, and


noticed how frequently and anxiously he looked .back for his guard, especially as he stepped on to the verandah. There he spied Mervyn, and went forward to rub noses, which Mervyn appeared not to enjoy. Next, turning to me, he whispered clearly:

" I want te beer," " So sorry we have none." . " Never mind, I like some tea." And so, begging him to be seated in the drawing

room, which he thought "ka pai " (very good), I made a big billy of tea for him and .some special ladies in his buggy, giving water to the rest, ' and inviting all into the garden to pick flowers. This they did to their hearts' desire, leaving absolutely not one bloom. They decorated quite artistically themselves and their horses, the most novel idea being one fuchsia flower instead of the usual earring. . . When they went away they all galloped towards tinpot Castle, calling in at Alf. Faulkner's, who offered Te Kooti a glass of whisky, which he declined, saying, "I want te brandy."

A young nephew of the house was sent off flying on horseback to the Uretara, and returning within a couple of hours with a bottle of brandy, he found Te Kooti had taken quite enough whisky and sighed no more for brandy.

With so many young men constantly coming and going, we began to see that it was desirable 19 provide them with something a little stronger than tea, so I started hop beer, and kept it up without intermission for the next twenty-two years. . This is how I made it. To ten gallons of cold water add t lb. dried hops, 8 lbs. moist sugar, and 2 lbs, maize (Indian corn). Let stand for twentyfour hours i bOll quickly for two hours; strain into

G

8b MY SIMPLE LIFE IN NEW ZEALAND.

a wooden tub in a warm place. When fermentation starts (in a week or two, according to temperature), which will' demonstrate itself by small surface bubbles, strain through a canvas bag. Bottle, let stand till foam rises, then cork, tie down bghtly. It will be fit to drink in two to four weeks, and prove a most wholesome, refreshing light beer All the cadets who desired were taught this, as vell as bread and butter making which might prove rseful w hen they left Athenree.

The first week of June, I884, was th e coldest we had known in New Z ealand, there being a thin sheet of ice on puddles or shallow vessels of water outside until 9 or IO a.rn, Bananas, heliotropes, cannas, and nasturtiums felt it very much, but were not destroyed. This cold was, in the following weeks, su cceeded by the usual wet, warm, writer weather. 'rVe had so much wished for a fine :une I7th, w hen, at H illside, took place the wedding of the eldest daughter of the house and the senior Athenree farm cadet . Although within two miles' Walk, we could not, chiefly on accoun t of our wedding

ents, fac e it on foot , so H ug h and I took the idegroo rn in the huggy, leaving th e three rerruin

ing cadet s to foll ow in a car t . Very few ot her invit ed guests appea red .

e bride looked charming in white veiled in I.~ ._ ,

an d her bri desmaid in pink. T he Canon conduc-ed the service impressively . It was all over by tlree o'clock, when, afte r wine and cake, the bride havn g put on a claret-coloured travelling dress, and kissed us all " good-bye," the happy pair , amid [I. stor m of rice, slippers, rain, and hail, dashed away in a co ach and four whit e horses to Tauranga, being st opped at the U retara by a rope across the ro ad held by tie

87I884", MY SIMPLE LIFE IN NEW ZEALAND.I884 bridegroom's numerous friends, who wished him " good luck," and would so much like to drink to the health of him and his bride, but- -. Here followed the chink of coins on the road. They were immediately picked up , the well-wishers made for the hotel, and the coach and four proceeded .

Our kind host and hostess would not let us go home in such weather, therefore we made ourselves useful cutting up and packing wedding cake for distribution, writing an account of the ceremony for newspapers, enj oyed a splendid suppe r, then made efforts to get away, but the night was pitch dark and rain came down in torrents, so w e slept at Hillside m ost comfortably, and got h ome by noon next day through seas of rain and mud. This was very goo d we ather for tree planting, so we put in a great many orange, olive, and apple trees, which, in the course of a few years, yielded abundance of fruit, th e oranges improving vastly in size, flavour, and sweet ness every succeeding year, until, at the time of ou r l eaving Athenree (1906), th ey were th e best that we had eate n in any part of the world. The olives bore well, but w ere not p ro fita ble, because we had no means of extractiug their oil or knowledge of bow to prese rve t hem. Apples, for som e yea rs, did very well, unti l firs t oue kind and then a nother succum to bli ghts and pests so prolific in New Zealand, and which made fruit-grow ing a very a rduous ta sk for the farmer in hIS busy life.

the middle of August 'we had a week's in cessant ra in, so that work was at a stand- still, except for the women, who almost despaired of getting the household wash ing dry. When at last we had a fine day we had a great misfortune in the death of our fine horse, Nelson, who was drowned in our river, ov er


which,by way of a short cut, instead of crossing the bridge, Hugh's man drove him. They got out of their depth, and capsized. Hugh had the painful task of helping to drag Nelson out of the' steepbanked, swift-running river and burying him.

October, always a busy month in the garden, became annually increasingly so as my knowledge and experience grew, and this year-r884-I availed myself of all the occasional help I could get to prepare beds for. marrows, cucurn bers, melons, pumpkins, etc. On October z rst we took this season's first swarm of bees, and on the 24th picked our first 30 lbs. of strawberries, with daily more and more. Thus jam-making began again.

On 30th we had our first early potatoes-" early rose," planted on July 7th.

On November 3rd, having all three had twinges of toothache, Hugh, Mervyn and I started in our buggy and pair at 4 a.rn. for Tauranga, calling en route to see the Kati Kati Cheese Factory, opened that day. Then on a few miles for our usual roadside halt for refreshment, we reached Tauranga at 2 p.m., an d put up.at Menzies' Hotel, which we always enjoyed. It was such a restful day or two, and in those days no railway to the Hot Lakes, very gay with travellers from all parts of the world on their way to New Zealand's Wonderland, as was eviderit the following morning when they came in from Auckland in great numbers by the new steamer Clansman, We spent the afternoon with a dentist, who filled one tooth each for Hugh and me and five for Mervyn (£ 3).

The next day we devoted to pl easure in the way of shopping, receiving visitors, etc., and got back to Athenree at II p.rn,

Next morning, to our delight, we saw in a field


across the river four fine heifer calves which we had given up for lost, they having kept themselves fat and warm in the bush all winter. They came home when there was plenty of grass. This was the intelligent custom of dry stock in all the ensuing years.

In October and November the bees mould swarm just at the busiest, most inconvenient times; but we liked honey, so in those early days we kept on filling more hives, putting supers on the old ones and generally making ourselves sticky and hot 1 . November also meant bathing in the river-most delightful; but the walk there and back took time. Just at noon one day, when the dining-room table would shortly be wanted for dinner for ten people, a stranger drove up to the gate, with blankets, sheets, towels, etc., to sell. Such articles tempted me. with eight bedrooms to keep supplied. so I asked him in. Soon the table was covered with serge, tweeds, and dress-stuffs-none of which I wanted-but no sheets, etc., which I did. The man talked incessantly, praising these goods:

.. Splendid bargains," "bankrupt stock." ., unrivalled chance," .• experienced tailor will call tomorrow to make them up." "such an opportunity will never occur again! "

First dinner-bell rang-quarter to one. I took our table-cloth out of the sideboard drawer, pushed aside his" £20 worth goods," but he never stopped talking, so I said:

"We'll dine . in the kitehen. " And proceeding thither he followed and said:

"You shall have the lot for £ro." So, weary and hungry, \ \ i e took it, and for ' many years after were saddled with shoddy garments of my make (for needless to say the "experien ~d tailor" did. not tu rn up)

91 90 MY SIMPLE LIFE IN NEW ZEALAND. 1884

and useless remnants. Having got his cheque, the man departed, to swindle similarly the whole settlement, raking in [ICO in a very few days. In after years we had occasionally such visitors, but only once were taken in again, as time will show.

After a dry November, when shearing was quickly got over, we had a great deal of rain in early December, so that snails were thick on the ground and a mong our young pumpkin and melon plants; we gathered them "in buckets and carried them to the ducks, who very much appreciated them.

Hugh and I having chosen three acres of sheltered land not far from the bee-farm, they were ploughed and cultivated and. all hands helping. sown on December 9th in wattles of various sorts for bee feed, and blue, red, Jarrah, peppermint, swamp gums, and stringybark for future firewood, for which wattle was al so most suitable, after being stripped of its bark, out of which for tanning purposes we had hoped to make a fortune. This was never accornplished because of the high price of labour.

1885 began in surprisingly English fash ion-the ground whit e with hail. We went to wish th e old parents a happy new year and found a wedding going on-that of one of their grand-daughters.

This unexpected cold affected us all on e way or another. My" help" got toothache, so did 1. She went home to rest, and left me all the work to"do !

On our next trip to Martray we had th e great pleasure of meeting Hugh's cousins Henry, Louie and Phoebe, j ust arrived from Ireland, with whom during ,their three months' visit at Martray and at Athenree we had much very pleasant intercourse.

Towards the middle of January (rather less than five weeks) the three acres of tree-seeds were up and


promising well. We had very little .ra in that month, and welcomed it when it came because there was scarcity of feed for cows, horses, etc. "

On February 19th we got up a picnic for the Irish cousins; and, some driving, othe rs riding, went to Waihi, fording several streams. At length after travelling nine or t en miles we reached a deserted saw-mill, where we had our lunch, and then explored the lovely surrounding bush and saw our first kauri trees, those splendid giants of the New Zealand forest or bush.

n April 6th was held at the Uretara the first Kati K at i fair and sale of cattle, sheep, and horses. There was a large attendance from Tauranga, Paeroa, etc. The sports that followed were very am ateur an . . amusmg.

A day or two afterwards a half-caste called with the bad news that our old Bowe ntown frien d, Capt

od's boat, was adrift wi th only h is little dog Nero on board; the local con stable with a party of men searched the channel and beaches for days b ut fo und no trace. On the ninth day the poor body w ound j ust where the boat had bee n di sco vere

n T uesday, April zoth, we were t hrown into eat excit ement byihe following te legram whic ugh received from Major Cantley, R.E.. "Please co me t o Au ckland immediately. ! want

o get you t he charge of Artiliery-s-Authority must follow-l leave Wednesday night 10 Hinemoa-»

nsw er by messenger ." So we packed up atonce, not forgetting his R .A.

books, etc" and saw him off by T a uranga COUGh.

But the R ussian war-scare blew over an d nothin g' arne of it, except tha t Hugh ha d a very pleas ant ine days' t rip and a guinea a day.

92 MY SIM PLE LIFE I N NE W ZEALAND. 1885

On May 4th, l 885, our cow Lady presented us with a fine white calf, May, who is here mentioned be

use she was alive and gi ving milk wh en we left Athenree in 1906.

n May zoth, my good servant, Mary Anne, left us to marry T om. I had no one to replace her; so with s ix men in the hous e had more than enough to do, and I found it very hard to have breakfast punc tually at 7 a.m. If I was lat er, all day I should be trying to make up for lost t ime. Mervyn was a wonderful help to me and so cont inued in all the after years, turning his hand to every kind of useful work.

June began dry and cold, so our two fat pigs were killed, cut up and salted ; besides I made much nic e brawn, pork pies, etc.

The washing was really too mu ch, so after some persuasion H annah, a Maor i, ag reed to come for 2 5. 6d., if she might brin g her three children and have three meals a day. Of Course I ag reed ; they cam e late for breakfast but with good ap petites. Hannah did her wo rk satisfac to rily, ha ving been educat ed in a Convent School in Auckland, and the children helped themselves all day long from a large boiler of potatoes and turnips cooked for the fowls.

Hugh heard on June rj th that he had been appointed a J.P. for New Z ealand on the unanimo us requisiti on of the Kati Kati settlers.

Aft er a servantless month, relief cam e for me in a half-caste girl, Katie, wh o helped me with the work, including milking; but, alas! for earthly hopes, after twenty-four hours her cousin Clara called and enticed her away, without even saying "good-bye." The early settlers' good, useful dau ghters were marrying fast, and the difficulty of getting help thus beginning to make itself felt, and continuing to do so

r885 MY SIMPLE LIFE IN NE W ZEA LAND . 93

with ever -inc reasing worry as years went on, we made up our minds to give up receiving farm-cad ets, and so grea t ly rednced t he wo rk. Our apple t rees

ere doing so well that th is winter we plant ed 84 more, also some pears, olives, lau rels, et c., and later a valu able gift from the Auck lan d Do main Co mmittee of olives, cyp resses, bamboos, lemon grass, pla nes, ashes, birches, maples, et c.

H aving heard of a man and wife T . wa nt ing a situatio n, we engaged them at :£ 1 0 a quarter with boa rd and lodgin g and found th em very useful; so much so that I was able to indulge in some gardening, planted some ea rly potatoes and ca bbages, sowed many seeds, both vegetable and flowe r, weeded my flower-bord ers and planted more pinus insign is, now red uced in price from nurseries to [ r for fifty, the first we ha d bough t hav ing been [5 per hu ndred. As years went on we were glad to give to anyon e who would dig th em up and take them away the self-sown seedlings from our trees, which we ourselves were at this time alr eady beginning to tr anspl ant.

On Sept ember zqth there was an other wedding in the family, a neph ew of Hugh's, who with his br ide sett led in Kati Kati and mad e one of the prettiest homes in th e place.

Our nicest cadet, George, havin g left us ea rly in the month for Sydney, N. S.\V. , he there spent £r wi th whi ch I had ent rus ted him at Anderson and Co ., Pitt Street, Sydney, on tree seeds, which I sowed after stee ping them in boiling water for tw enty-four hours. W hen th ey grew into big trees they made Athenree one of the loveliest places imaginable. There were acacias decurrens, deal bata, diffusa, pycnantha, and stricta; Eucalypti; leucoxylon (crimson flow ered), piperita (peppermint), Gonioc alyx

MY SIMPLE LIFE IN NEW ZEALAND. r 88594

(spotted), sideropholia (iron bark), obliqua (st ringy bark), marginata (Jarrah), resinifera (forest mahogany), Kennedya monophylla, Waratah, etc., etc.

One day in October, just as I had hurried through my work and we were starting for Martray, I saw a swarm of bees hanging from a tree in the garden. Hurriedly I took them in a box and then hived them, but not satisfactorily, for on returning home at night I found them clustered outside the hive, and while gently brushing them inside I got several stings, one in the eye giving discomfort and paiu for two or three days until cured by a poultice of pounded dock-leaves. This summer, with such help as I could levy, I took fourteen swarms in October and November, thus ensuring plenty of honey and work.

One very hot day in November I was busy taking honey, being protected with, over my large hat, a white net bee-veil, dyed black across the eyes for comfort in seeing, the white net falling over the neck and being there confined by a loose black and green silk bodice of my mother-in-law's. My hands were enveloped . in gauntlet gloves. Suddenly visitors ' appeared at the gate, and thus being caught I received them, new arrivals from home, with as dignified a manner as possible. They concealed their astonishment as best they could, the lady mentally ejaculat

ing: " Shall I ever-look like that? " She and her family settled in Kati Kati but I never

heard of her taking honey. First two of her sons and a nephew stayed with us, and then three daughters, while Mr. and Mrs. A. themselves were entertained at Martray until they found a house to live in.


Mervyn being nearly fifteen years of age, on December 9th he was confirmed in our Church in the township by Bishop Cowie, who delivered to a large congregation (among whom was a Roman Catholic lady with her baby, which Mrs. Cowie was anxious the Bishop should christen) a good, practical, Christian address, after which he and Mrs. Cowie rode back to Athenree with us for the night, which was always of use to poor Mrs. Cowie, who suffered from insomnia. The Bishop very much appreciated at 6.30 a.m, a. specially hot cup of tea which Hugh made for him, me and himself with the aid of a Primus lamp.

Our next visitors were from home-the Rector who had married us, and his kind wife, just landed in New Zealand, to visit their married son and two daughters. It was a very pleasant meeting after nearly eight years' parting, for we had paid them a visit in Yorkshire shortly before sailing for the Antipodes. Their stay in Kati Kati brightened Christmas time greatly for us, and I needed it, being again without a servant, as Mrs. T.'s health necessitated her leaving. She and her husband moved to an adjoining cottage, where on January 25th, r886, she presented him with their first son, to whom they gave the fine name of Marmaduke, the hero of a novel she had read at Athenree.

My next help was Jenny, young and inexperienced, but quick and obliging, who stayed with me nearly a year, eventually marrying well.

The usual harvesting, shearing, fruit-preserving and picnics went on.

One very wet day a travelling tinker and mate called in for food, shelter and work; they got them all, spent two days with us, and having mended thirty articles-dishes, jugs, cans, kettles, knives and umbrellas-went rejoicing on their way with 25s.

96 97 MY SIMP L E LI FE IN NEW ZE AL AND . , r 886

Abont this time we had a four months' visit from a young nephew of Hugh's, his godson and namesake, wh o was a pleasant companion for Mervyn , an d bein g older tau ght h im to mil k, butch er, etc., which accomplishments Mervyn Soon excelled in and cultivat ed to the end of our time in New Z ealand.

H ugh having built a smithy adjoining our farm bu ildings, Mqntgomery, the bricklayer, put up a fire- . place, which, with bellows and all the accessories, made us very ind ependent wh en Salt , " the Village Bl acksmith, " paid us per iodical visits t o shoe our horses, rep air farm implements, buggy, etc., etc.

In ' April I had a m ost te mpting invitation from cousins of H ugh's t o spe nd May with them in Sydney, but on account of my large family-two and four-I egged-I felt bound to decl ine. This I have never ceased to regret , as one of the co usins who was most an xious to see me died short ly a fte r.

Mervyn be ing now past fiftee n we engaged for him a tutor, with whom 'he read three hours daily, the

' rest of th e tutor's time being at first given to ot her pupils, and eventually, when we offered t o lend him a ro om in the hou se, to a n "aided " sch ool, to which came "regularl y white children an d Maoris, ma ny of whom withont this chan ce would never h ave learnt to read or write. Th e tutor wa s very pleasant, also musical, which helped in the formation of a Glee Club, which met from time to time at members" houses. When our turn "came we had them all for high ,t ea, winding up with a hop. , On ' April 28th Maclean, a Hi ghlander, came through with sheep from Napier. Hugh bought

. eighty ewes for £32. One day on our return drive from Martray, within

- on e'and a-half mil es from home, suddenly the front

1886 MY S I MPLE LIFE IN NEW ZE ALAN D.

seat of the bu ggy ga ve way. Hugh ca lled out, II L ook out f " and we were pitched out in the mud, the horses, q uite unconcerned, trotting on with Mervyn , who had a seat with hi s back to us, st ill in the trap, H e jumped out to assist us, who, be ing only muddy, quite unhurt, foll owed on 'foot, and found the buggy safe a t o ur gates, th e horses having travell ed beaut.ifully a lo ng the road and round a very sharp corner a t th e c ross -roads.

Alt hough it was winter (May) Hugh 's sister Mary got up a large picnic party, forty in all, including the wo nderful old paren ts; they met a t Athen ree;: a nd walking, ridin g, or driv ing, went abo ut two miles t o a lovely sheltered P ah (old native fort), wh er e we had a n excellent lunch. They returned to U3 for tea and an ea rly dance.

The following day was so co ld that I found my sealskin coat the gre atest comfort for th e, drive to M artray, ,

One day in June I pl anted three dessert-almond tr ees, grown from nuts that one of the cade ts had taken off the d inner-table on h is voyage out ; the tap-root s wer e long and tender- only one tree survive d ; that was six or eight feet hi gh wh en we left tw enty years aft er. It had blossome d many early springs , but in our time had borne no fru it.

June ro th, 1886, was a memorable day in Ne w Zeala nd--tha t of the terrible volcanic eruptio n a nd earthquake a t the Hot L ak es, from whi ch we were abo ut eighty miles distant. The m orning with ns was fine and bri ght; soon the sky go t iuky black from R otorua (Hot Lakes) to W aih i, nin e mil es beyon d us. Having felt tw o ear t hquakes during the night, ther e was ano t he r at bre akfast- t ime , then ano the r. Soon rain seemed to fall in a steady, light

98 99 MY SIMPLE LIFE IN NEW ZEALAND. r886

shower, and I hurried out to plant Cabbages. But this was not rain, but dust and ashes quietly falling in the dim twilight at noon. There were more earthquakes, ashes stil-l falling, until the whole place was whitey-grey, and the atmosphere smelt stronglyof sulphur.

"What had happened?" we asked one another, with anxious faces, and could give no satisfaction to the neighbours who came to enquire, for we were quite isolated-no tel egraph, no telephone, no anything r and in these respects matters made no advance in twenty-eight years.

On the r rth the ash-falling had ceased, the weather was clear and fine, but it was very ashdusty in and out of the ho use, making sweeping a ho peless business because of t he clouds of ashes flying from off the land seawards. Being practical nd economical, I ca refully gathered in a dustpan

the strange slltte-pen cil scrapings-like st uff off th verandah floor, put it in a glass jar, and filling severa l tin m atch -voxes full, sent presen ts of it all o ver t he world.

Na t until th e rzth was this myste rious visitat ion ••terpret ed to us ; the n we read in the Tauranga Bay

enty Times of the awful disast er in the H ot L akes District, and destruction of th e beautiful t err ac es. with the [ass Qf: forty H~s

O n th e 13th there were lb ret volcan oes in act ion, visible a ll day long from our J raw ing-room 1lay window ; a t this sa fe d istance a very fine sight ,

the 14th there were endless mobs of cattl...: being driven past At henr ee from Ta uranga (where! all grass had been destroyed by volcanic sh ower'S much heavier than ours) to the T bam es- any whet':! or feed for the. Door starving animals. W e we re

r886 MY SIMPLE LIFE IN NEW ZEALAND.

inundated with letters from more fortunate, distant New Zealand friends, enquiring for our welfare.

Soon our troubles were forgotten when we saw the ben efit our fields, orchard, and gardens had derived from the volcanic dust, scattered so impartially and providentially all over the farm. We were stimulated to . renewed activity, and planted more fruit-treesnectarines, mulberries, quinces, and persimmons (Japanese date plums), a handsome. tomato-like fruit, but of such a sweet, slimy substance that it was not popular for dessert and quite unsuitable for preserving. The trees, however, were most ornamental, especially with autumn tints of scarlet or

.orange, whi ch almost concealed their fruits of the same colours.

In July a travelling photographer called, and took three views of the place, charging us £4 ros, for six of each.

Au gust was a very wet month, turning the earthroads into seas of mud, and giving us a novel experience, i.e., a visit from a Circus Company. They had, one night, given a performance at the U retara, and started next morning for the Thames via Athenree, the manager in his buggy leading the way, followed by dromedaries at liberty, and many iron-barred cages of wild beasts, drawn by the stud of performing horses, driven by members of the troupe, including the clown, who had forgotten to wash his face ! Within °a quarter of a mile of Athenree this cavalcade broke down in an extra soft, swampy bit of ground. The shades of night" were falling fast; t hey spied our lights, and begged for food and shelter, which they got, also breakfast, for all of which, as payment, they offered us a peep at the menagerie, allowing us to look through the bars at

lOa MY SIMPLE LIFE IN NEW ZEALAND. r886

tigers, leopards, emus, kangaroos, monkeys, a black panther, and a Tasmanian devil; and with our best wishes for a nice trip they crawled away!

On another day, just as I had finished baking, chnrning, and cooking, a friend [rom a distance appeared, with her three children and Mr. Granville Waldegrave; after a chat they drove to the Waihi Beach, returning to us for dinner. Mr. G. W. is a good man and grea t traveller.

On September rjth Hugh's dear old father, who had for weeks been sufferin g from bronchitis,passed ,away at the great age of ninety-six, and was, two days later, laid to rest in the Kati Kati cemetery.

On September 29th, after IIZ days' voyage, the ship Waimea reached L ondon, in which had travelled a nephew, niece, and children, who, we heard later, had had a shower of Rotorua ashes on their ship immediately after leaving Auckland on June roth, and wondered what it was.

On October rzth we were favoured with a visit from 'Mr. K., a new clergyman, whom we put up for the night, he continuing his journey the following day to the Uretara, where, being made vicar of the parish, he settled with his wife and son, and was still in residence when we left, his spare time being devoted-and very successfully-to the rearing of ostriches.

My improved little servant, Jenny, being now urgently wanted by her mother, I had to find a substitute, and got Mabel, a fine Irish girl, through Hannaford's registry office in Auckland, So obliging was she that she begged to be shown ,b ow to milk in order to let Mervyn off occasionally ; for the work of milking, morning and evening, is a great tie. Sh also che erfully helped to plant potatoes in the fur

18.87 MY SIMPLE LIFE IN NEW ZEALAND. IOI

rows, following the plough as we all did at such a busy time, having our picnic-dinner in the field while the horses fed and rested for an hour.

Mervyn had become an enthusiastic stamp collector, and was delighted to receive two albums from Stanley Gibbons, London, which afforded him, in their filling. a very great deal of pleasure.

r887 found the house full of young people who had yesterday come at our invitation for a picnic in a lovely sheltered gully within five minutes' walk of our house, to which they came back for tea-several for the night. Through this gully ran a mountain stream, which, in the after years, Hugh cleverly brought to the house by means of a hydraulic ramthe first of which we saw working most satisfactorily at the ' home, nine miles distant, of one of the Generals, our shipmates. This summer we began to enjoy plenty of our own apples, the fruit of trees we had planted in July, r879. '

Mervyn's height on January 24th, r887, when he was nearly sixteen years old, was six feet, less oneeighth of an inch, his weight 12 stone 7 lbs., after which he grew very little, except a beard. He having now derived all possible benefit from his tutor's instruction, we parted from the latter with regret, and were very glad to meet him again in after years. Mervyn made himself generally useful-milking, gardening,_fishing, killing sheep for the larder; working with the farm-hands, etc.-and was always able and willing to help me with every kind of housework when I had no servant. One day, in addition to the ordinary work, I made bread, rolls, oat-cake, plum-cakes, buns, sausage-rolls, rissoles, Russian salads, fruit salads, etc. Several young friends and relations came to stay, followed next day by many

H

102 MY SIMPLE LIFE IN NEW ZEALAND. 1887 more - sixty-seven in all- for Mervyn's annual Patrick's Day birthday picnic to the Waihi beach, where we had Our lunch with the usual interest of making tea. Then home for supper. Having re. ' ceived them from a, friend in Bermuda, Hugh planted two Avocado pear or subaltern's butter stones, but they had suffered in the voyage and did not even germinate, whi ch we regretted, as they are a delicious fruit, and were unknown in New Z ealand.

Hugh and Mervyn sometimes went out fishing, and I was glad when they were Successful.

T here Was now a charming family in the General's house, a mil e off, so that life was brighter for us all. They vied with me in giving dances and picnics, and cheered up the whole settlem ent. When we killed beef they were our customers, as were several othe r nei ghbours. Hugh always shot the po or animal in th e head with a revolver. Mervyn did the rest-brought it hom e in quarters and cut it up on a table under oak trees. Then I did my share as cook .

Now th at we had beautiful trees, Howers, and shru bs a bout t he h ouse I felt very wlhappy whe n in wintor st orms th e fearfully rough south-east wi nd thrashed them u nm ercifully, killing some and wound. ing all.

One day tbere was a cry of " Pigs in th e orchard ! " when every available man in or out of the place left

is work for a hunt, and captured six. T hese wild igs gave capital sport and fun, bu t were m os t estructive, rooting up grass by the acre, and e;ttiJ;lg

all the win dfalls and potatoes in orch ard an d garden. As long as th ey were feeding and. gro wing fat on our la nd no one admitted ownership, but when they were caugh t or kill ed trouble sometimes followe


Mabel, my servant, having got' a fortnight's holiday, I was again single-handed, except for Mervyn's most efficient help. One day two stra ng ers appeared riding from Waihi, who, we found out, were Jews making a tour of the country. . \Ve asked them to dinner, which they liked so mu ch that they came back next day for breakfast, so hungry that when they found me in the honey-room filling a dish of the for mer in th e comb for the t able, they helped themselves to it by the handful!

Our communication wit h E ngland was now (1887) improving greatly, and we felt the distance sepa ra t ing us growing less when on May 28th we received, via San Francisco, the London mail of April arst-e-by far the quickest on record. Thus we were calmly and industriously getting through our ninth winter in New Z ealand, with occasional little concerts in the Orange H all, and dances in our own and one or two neighbours' h ouses.

Having no doct or there was fortunately very little sickness in the settlement, every wom an having t o t reat herself and her household . But occasionally eri ous illness or accident made a doct or's advic

imperative. T he n some kind ne ighbour would r id or drive all the thi rt y miles to T auranga an d bring the medico back j ust for one visit, which usuall y was of mo re value as a. salve to th e conscience of an xious elatives than of benefit to t he patient.

A dear young daughter of th e Canon' s succ um bed to serious inj uries from burni ng. Sh e had, a u wash ing-day, li t a fire in a secluded gully at t he edge of a stream to p ro vide hot water for the work. Being a grea t reader sh e had sat down wit h he r bac k to t he fire, and was engrossed in a story in th e paper she had saved from kindling, wh en su ddenly she saw

I04 MY SIMPLE LIFE IN NEW ZEALAND. 1887

flames behind her, her clothes having canght fire. Had she not lost her presence of mind she would have thrown herself into the stream, and thus have perhaps escaped unhurt, instead of which she ran home, several hundred yards up a steep hill, crying, "Mother 1 mother! I'm on fire 1" The flames were promptly put out with rugs, carpets, etc., but not before fatal burning had tak en place; and after one visit from the Tauranga doctor, who gave directions that eased her pain to some extent, she passed away quietly after three weeks' patient SUffering, lovingly attended to by her sorrowing mother, brothers, andsisters.

Our nin-e year old oaks, gums, and pines being now a good size, and the weather early in November warm and sunny, we organised a "fete champetre," and entertained about twenty friends to lunch under th e shade of these trees, of which we were very proud. Then followed tennis and chat, winding up with high tea in the broad verandah.

During Dctober and November we took twenty-one swarms of bees. ."

At this season, corresponding with ApriJl1and May in England, we felt bound to keep up the old home custom, and so "spring-cleaning" was the order of the day; but there was no useful charwoman, or any kind of extra help to be had. Therefore, all hands were enrolled to sweep chimneys, shake carpets, dust books, pictures, etc" and put up white curtains. Such work was done, if possible, in fine weather, which generally brought us visitors for dinner, tea, Or bed, sometimes all; but we went on working just the same, a duster often protecting our hair, and a big apron always OUr dress. Just as we had finished for this season, came -our dear Bishop for the night.


Next day came the shearers, who finished up with branding our young stock.

Two days after we had our half-yearly picnic to the Waihi Beach, a party of fifty, for whom I was cooking the whole of the previous day.

In return, some of our near and far neighbours gave cheery dances, to which for many years we always went. As Mervyn was nearly seventeen he accompanied us, and of late years when we felt less inclination to sit up all night with no hope of rest next

- day, he did the honours of the family alone. 1888, our tenth year, was heralded by another

fete charnpetre," winding up with a dance. Our next exciting change, not a pleasurable one, was the long dreary driv e to Tauranga, to see a dentist, the preparations for three days' absence being voluminous, and accumulated work on our return still more so !~

especially now that harvesting was in full swing, and there were ten hungry men to coo'e.or, besides the piano-tuner, who took three days to re-coverthe piano hammers, and left with [3 lOS.

Our colonial oven showed signs of old age after nearly ten years of daily bread-baking 'an d cooking, so it was sent to Tauranga for repairs, and what was I to do? Providence sent Tinker Simmonds, who did 55. worth of mending, and showed me how to use a ., camp-oven "-a Is-inch round iron pot on legs, and with a handle, so that it could either stand or hang. Bread or meat are excellent cooked in this vessel, with fire under it and over it, i.e., hot embers on the lid. While thus experimenting I had a surprise-party for dinner, and with an hour's hard work achieved a surprise-triumph! Sheep's head broth, cutlets with tomato sauce, boiled mutton with caper sauce, vege-, t ables, jelly, stewed peaches and cream, followed b


coffee and music! Still, I was glad after nine days' bereavement to welcome back my trusty colonial oven.

We were getting such quanties of honey, for which now that everyone kept bees there was no sale, even at rd. per lb., that we gave it away to all who would take it, and st ill it came j so instead of 8 lbs. sugar for 10 gall ons hop beer, I used honey, which made it much clearer, and mor e sparkling. I also tried fruit preserving with honey, but unsuccessfully. It looked muddy, never solidified, and soon fermented.

In March I was the lucky recipient of a quite unexpected [roo windfall, and oh ! the fun we got out of '"that little legacy. The house needed painting, and that was done, so satisfactorily too, both as to labour and materials, that it looked fresh still when we left eighteen years after. All the lovely climbingplants, passion-fruit, dolichos, maurandya, ipomoea, jessamine, honey-suckles, rnandevillea, etc., had to be cut down, which grieved me sorely; but com monsense conquered sentiment, and th e improvement repaid me.

On this Patrick's day, instead of our usual picnic on the beach, we had our lunch in a lovely spot by our own river, Hugh's mother being one of the party j it was on her account, because of her great age, she having come eight miles for the birthday party, that we did not this year go any further.

Potato-digging was an extra and tedious job, taking up too much of Peter, the Scotch farm-hand's time, so Hugh made a bargain with Alf, the half-caste, to lift the crop,' and get one bag in six for himself as payment.

At this time we had an unusually merry party of young people staying with us. A kind neighbour had

10 7188~ MY SIMPLE LIFE IN NEW ZEALAND.

invited from a distance a batchelor with such brilliant red hair that he was called "the Mag enta Man," to try and select a wife from Kati Kati's bounteouS store of lovely damsels- On a certain day he was expected by coach from the Thames, so our party, some riding, some walking, went to meet him. The gay est of our young men galloped on a mile, stuck up the coach :

"Is the Magenta man on board? " " No, sir." Dismounting, he handed his bridle to

one of the girl s who had jus t ridden up, and said to

t he dri.ver: " H ave you any spectacles?" II No, sir ."" Oh, this will do as well j " seizing a ha ndful of

, cushion-stuffi ng and bal ancing it on h is upper cleanshaven lip, he j umped into the coach, changed hats with the driver, who thought , and no wonder, th at he had a lunatic for a 'passenger, and shouting, "Drive 0 0 , " they pulled up at the cross-roads where au young people we re awaiting the "Magenta Man" and were dumfou nded at tb isappari. tioll. so much 5

that he laugh ed, d ropped his fibro us moustache, and hus ended th is match-ma king. Bul for years afte

as the coach came up that hin to the cross-road eals of laughte r from the passeoger~ proclaime'

that the driver was relating this ridiculous narratlV Hugh '" engineering and labour·saving talent m

long made him desirous to make use of our nver watur-power for chaff, wood, and bone-cutting, et HaVing in September got the matf'...rials {or :l wheel, he, and several men at 55. a day , began the dam, So interested we re we all in this great and good work that nothing else seemed to matter. Our dreams were approaching luUi lment, .when in May the usual torrents of rain came down. and the waters wer

108 MY SIM PLE LIFE IN NE W ZEA LA ND. 1888

tearing through the mill-race. On, on went the rain, until on the 13th, Peter, afte r an early inspection, came running ho me to say ;- .

"Captain, the dam's burst ;" a nd so it was, or rather th e river had forced a new channel for itself at one end of the dam, and ou r useful big bri dge was so damaged that it had to be removed. It was a de

ressing sight later in th e day to see the rui ned dam , wh ich was never repaired . Then we chose a new site for th e bridge, whi ch H ugh soon put up again on 'lirmer foundation. Next we counte d th e sheep that

ad been drowned in the flood, and whose ca rcasses were bu ried to great advantage under lemon and orange trees.

P eter, being a first-rate carpenter, did much good work with Hugh in th e house, kn ocking away the dining-room ceiling, whi ch was rather low, and finishing picturesqu ely th e roof-ceilin g, on one side of whi ch ran a gallery leading to upper bedrooms. When th is room was finished to our satisfaction and th e adm ira tion of all, Peter left us to return to Scotland. A week later a very han dsome hanging-lamp arrived anonymo usly by coach from Auckland, whi ch Hugh imm ediately hung up. It was exac tly what we had wanted, but not so mu ch so the account for £3 5s. that followed next day; the ques t ion still remains una nswered : "Who sent that lamp? "

uring this year, 1888, Miss Gordon-Cumming, raveller and authoress, visited New Zealand, and nding som e of her old friends exhaust ing energy and

streng th with clothes-rubbing and wringing on washing-day, determined in the kindn ess of her heart to find some alternative and a less arduous process for heir benefit. Consequently, in July, fr om her pen

there appeared in the St. James' Gazette the following

r888 MY SIMPLE LIFE IN NEW ZE ALAND. 109

directions, of whi ch I immedia telyavailed myself and made use of for all future occasions ; " Pu t a.ll th e soiled clothes into the copper-boiler (mine held 25 ga llons), fill it with cold water , add t-Ib: yell ow soap cut in pieces. Next morn ing light the fire under the boiler, and as soo n as the wate r boils, add two tablespoonsful of kerosene; boil as fast as possible for hal t an hour , t ake out th e clothes, pass through an indiaubber wri nger into clean, cold water, wring again

into " blue'd " wat er, an d ag ain into th e big clothesbask et ; han g on lines to dry, which mayan a fine day be su ch a qnick process t ha t in an hour or two the clothes can be folded, man gled and put away."

ut not always ; som et imes a week will not do, as my previous expe rience has shown!

In September we had a visit frorn two Auck la nd ot hers, th e one <}In I nsur ance agent, the other his

nedical exa miner. _ Mervyn had his life insured, I, hav ing of late often felt very ill and dr eading to become an invalid, co nsulted th e doctor, who said 1 needed rest and advice and sh ould go to Aucklan d . A neigh bour's son agr eed to come to Athenree as caret aker for £1 a week, and on October 6th my iusband, my self a nd Mervyn left home by coach. W e cha nged hors es at Paeroa, where th ere was no l ime for di nner. W e changed again at Hikntaia, go t a hurried cup of tea, r s. each ; and through awfnl swamps and bad roads reached the Tham es, for ty mil es from Athenree, in seven hours. W e go t into a cab, rush ed qua rter-mile to the Wharf and saw our boat for Auckland st eaming away ; it had got tired f wait ing for our belated coach from Tauranga . So W~ three turned back and put up at Symingt on's H otel. Sunday followed, a very wet day, and the

Dee busy, but now semi-deserted, gold-mining town

IIO MY SIMPLE LIFE IN NEW ZEALAND. r888

looked unutterably wretched. We weni: to morning service at St. George's Church, but found it so empty and lifeless that Mervyn and I in the evening paid our first visit to Salvation Army Barracks, which were neither empty nor lifeless, and the speakers, among whom were several Maoris, were eloquent and very much in earnest.

On Monday we left at 8 a.m, in SS. Rotomahana and reached Auckland at 1. We took rooms at Mountnessing, Grafton 1{oad, a most comfortable boarding-house, the charge being 30S. a week. That time we spent seeing a doctor, receiving many friends, doing much shopping, an d engaging a servant, Ada, at r2S. a week. We passed a pleasant day at Onehunga Parsonage with friends formerly of Kati Kati.

Our loug drive from Athenree to Thames of the previous week had not tempted us to try it again, so we returned home by SS. lana to Tauranga, leaving at 5 p.m., and after a fine passage arriving there at noon the next day. Thence, after lunch a t the Tauranga H otel, we went on by sea once more, a five hours' trip, to our old landing at Tinpot Castle, where our young friend, the caretaker, met us with a cart for our luggage and we wended our way the three miles home. Next day, when I had just got their rooms ' ready, arrived the new servant, Ada, and a nurse to take care of me. The latter was delighted with Athenree and all the fun she Cleverly managed to extract out of life there, so that she proved a very pleasant guest. But in less than a month she was summoned by wire to Auckland to attend a more important case than mine; and thus to the last I was left to take care of myself while suffering more than others knew. Hugh's mother suspected this and made me a present

I889 MY SIMPLE LIFE IN NEW ZEALAND. III

of a most comfortable sofa which she had bought in Dresden fifty years previously. On this I rested for an hour or two every afternoon in the pleasant baywindow of our pretty drawing-room, commanding a view of flower-beds, fence, road, the coveted , unoccupied Iand, channel separating us from Bowentown, sand-hills beyond, then the Pacific Ocean, limitless and lifeless. A few weeks later I had again to go to Auckland for medical advice, and was six weeks at Mountnessing, au enforced separation from Illy two dear boys at Athenree which I felt bitterly, especially as th e time included Christmas and New Year's Days (r889), for which I had intended to make an effort to get hom e. There came a wire from Hugh telling me to stop where I was, because Ada, the servant, "wanted a holiday." was coming to Auckland, and leaving them quite alone. How bitterly I felt this selfishness of hers and my own helplessness.

I determined to try and improve matters by giving up the country and coming to live in town, so as soon as I felt well enough I crossed with a Land-agent over to Bir:kenhead, North Shore, by a ferry-boat, and saw a house that might have suited us, the price being [r,200 or [80 per annum, and others in the suburbs of Parnell, Ponsonby, etc. But we were destined to occupy none of these; we could not sell Athenree, which was our only New Zealand home for over twenty-eight years.

Having met with great attention and kindness from two ladies inthe boarding-house, and noticing that both looked ill and tired from the heat of Auckland, I invited them to return with me to Athenree, which was always lovely with its fresh air and shady tr ees in summer. We travelled by night in the SS. lana to Tauranga, and when off Mayor Island, an hour's

II2 MY SIM PL E 'LIFE IN NE W ZEALAND. r889

steam from T auran ga, and in a st ra ight line from Athenree, Hu gh ca me out to me et me in a small boat, ac comp anied by Alf, the halt- caste. The sea was rough, and a ltho ugh the SS . lana was stopped for me, I had not the pluck to clim b down into the boat; so Hugh and h is crew ca me on board, the boat Was tied on behind, and a way we sp ed to T auranga, where we dined, and left a t 4 p.rn. in this open boat, hoping to be a t Tinpot Castle before dark. This, howev er, was not to be Our happy lot. R ain soon came on and wetted ns three' ladies in Our best travelling costumes through and through. One of my friends owne d a canary, who m she tenderly pro~ tected un der her sk irts. D arkn ess came on ; the tide rail ou t ; we conld go no further. Alf and his m an carried us one by one ashore on their backs; but on Matakana beach, wh ere we found ourselves, there was no she lter. T hese two natives, having matches, most cleverl y lit a fire. This th ey did by scratching for dry,grass under an overhang ing sandba nk, which grass they managed to kindle and then very, very gra dually p iled o n sma ll, then larger an d larger, peach-sticks, nntil We had a regular bonfire, round and round which we walked, turn ing ourselves as if j oint s on the spit and seein g clouds of steam rising from our dripping garments . One of our friends gave us ea ch a th im bleful of cognac from her flask, which r evived us great ly. So hours passed, the tide turn ed, and we star ted again; but there was not enough wat er, we stuck in the man groves, and there had anot her ted ious delay. Eventually we reached Tinpot Castl e at 4 a.m, quite done up afte r our tw elve hours' trip and st arted to walk t o Athenree, which I knew was three mil es; but my friends did not, else they would ha ve co llapsed. I carried the

1889 MY SIM PLE LIFE I N NEW ZEALAND. II3

canary, Hugh being laden with bandboxes, etc ., a nd as my poor friends mo an ed and groaned, " How far is it ?" I spurred them on with, "Over the next hill ," "Beyond that ris e," etc ., which, co nsidering that the whole distan ce was nothing but steep upsa nd-downs, was rather misleading. H owever, a t last we were sa fe hom e. The serv ant had come back , so rooms we re ready. My friends went to bed, and a ft er hot punch slept till noon and felt no ill- effects whate ver, whi ch was fortunate, as there was no doctor within thirty miles .

I feel glad st ill wh en I re call how much quiet pleas ure a nd benefit to their healths those tw o kin d fri end s de r ived from their six or seven weeks' sta y with us. They attracted so m any visitors t hat they were never dull, and helped me with all my ext ra work, j am - making, etc., this hottest mo nt h of Februa ry ,

'vVe had now su ch quantit ies of peaches tha t we sold them in W aihi for rd. pe r lb. , and made of those that were bruised and un saleable excelle nt wine. This is the pr escription :-In a wood en t ub we crus hed roolbs. pea ch es, added 10 gallo ns cold wat er , and covered it up. A wee k lat er we st rained th is, a nd to every ga llo n added 31bs. sugar; st ir red it well, filled a barrel, and as fermentat ion set in and th e w ine foam ed out of the bunghole replenished it from a reserv e supply. When a t the end of a wee k or tw o (the weather bein g very hot ) ferme ntatio n had ceased, we put the bung in tight, hav ing a good ear th-cellar, made by excavat ing to fill up the original well, which we no lon ger used, and ther e left it for twelve months, when it pro ved excellent sherr y- like win e and st ill mor e excellent at two years

of age.

II4 MY SIMPLE LIFE IN NEW ZEALAND. r889

After seven months' good work Ada left us to get married and was re-placed by Helen, a lady-help,who was most obliging.

Lemons, oranges and citrons were now so plentiful that I began can verting some into candid peel, thus: -Cut the fruit in half across; scoop out all the juicy part; put the thick skins into salt and water for three days; take them out and boil in fresh water until so soft that the head of a pin can easily be put in. Drain and set aside. Boil rlb, sugar in half- pint water for five minut es and pour it over the peels. Let all stand covered for a week; then strain off th e syrup and, when boiling , put in the peels. Boil gen tly un til they look clear (about one hour), then l ift them out, sprea d on a dish, powder with sugar, dry in [he sun or a cool oven, and put away in tins.

Having invested some £20 of my windfall legacy in house and table linen, chi efly from Smith and Caughey, Anckland, many of whose goods are still (after nineteen years) in use, I was busy in my

. restingo-honrs cutting out sheets, pillow. r.ases, tablecloths, etc., hemming and marking them H.S., 1889. Hugh found it increasingly difficult to get farmlabourers, so we availed ourselves of all kinds of help-tramps, Maoris, and homeless young men from home. These latter were glad to come to Athenree and, in colonial parlance, "work for their tucker." This proved rather a one-sided arrangement; the young men complained that I "made them too Comfortable," "such a j ally place' for a loaf," "must really begin work next week," etc ., and so were very happy while it lasted, especially enjoying shooting, and all of us roast pheasant.

Towards the end of July (unluckily for him midwinter) I had the great pleasure of three weeks' visit

1889 MY SIMPLE LIFE IN NEW ZEALAND. II5

from my cousin Archie from Edinburgh on a tour round the world. His advent was the signal for much fun and merry-making, especially when followed another delightful visitor-General Strange, Royal Artillery-who was touring New Zealand with a Maxim gun.

How I lived through these times is a mystery, as I often felt too ill to stand, much less to goo on working; but I did it. Our old friend, the Thames watchmaker, was here for four days-a good but very slow worker, who, one morning hearing me running quickly at my work, rose leisurely from his chair, popped his head in at the kitchen door and enquired :

"Can I be of any use?" which so took me by surprise that I asked:

"What for?" and seeing I was only cooking, he . answered:

"You were in such a hurry, I thought the honse nust be on fire."

Being fond of all kinds of needlework, and having to occupy my afternoons on the sofa, I made cushions, cosies, etc., for gifts, bazaars and such-like. E mbroidery silks were very dear-4d. a skein in Auckland . Therefore, seeing an advertisement in a h ome paper, I sent £1 to Providence Mills Co., Bradford, Yorkshire, and by return mail got 180 skeins of equally good silks, all numbered for convenience of matching. These having been sorted one wet afternoon by Mervyn, I put them into a corrugated sateen case, which to this day is a joy to me.

r890 began better than did the previous year, because we three were together. Still my health was not improving, which was most disappointing. Our nice neighbour, a widow, was also ill, so we could

II6 MY SIMPLE LIF E IN NEW ZEALAND. 1890

sympathise but not exactly . cheer one another. Still we both went on giving picnics an d part ies to amuse the yaung people, and busied ourselves making Greek, Indian, F rench and other costun for a fancy dress ball in the,Ora nge Hall On Jan uary 24t h, fro m which they all came home at six DeKt morning and slept till noon lOur party SOon broke up, the young men scattering to all parts of the world, and my help returning to her home, being succeeded by Dinah, a very good servant, at las. aweek.

In the midst of this hot weather Hu gh had one of his occasional attacks of rheumatic-gou t, which invalided him for a few days, and which he ultimately cured with a guinea box of Fraser's Sulphur Tablets.

On June znd he was appointed Postmaster at Athenree-salary £s per annum-and immediately set to work to build a Post Office at his Own expense.

Mervyn being very fond of football took a half. holiday On Saturdays, and played at the Uretara or more distant places, even to Tauranga.

All hands were busy in July digging horse-carrots_ a good crop. Some were sold in Waihi for £2 a ton .

Having now attained to a hot-bed under glass, in August r sowed tomatoes, cucumbers, melons, and many choice flower-seeds, which nearly all grew beautifully, and were transplanted in September. We so much enjoyed at this time unpacking a case from home with two Swiss cuckoo clocks, one for Our dining-room and the other for a wedding present to a newly-married young couple. How we watched this new toy, and regretted for ever after having, in an impulsive mood, soon given it away to another bridegroom !-he loved it so! Flirtations, engagements, weddings were th e order of the day, many of the two former taking place at Athenree !

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r8go MY SIMPLE LIFE IN NEW ZEALAND. II7

In November, when we had plenty of honey, I made vinegar thus: Put 'broken honey-combs into a stone jar; to every pound allow one gallon of boiling water, which pour over the honey; cover with muslin, place it in a sunny widow. In about six months you will, after straining, have sharp, clear vinegar, and need buy no more. Such, at any rate, was my practice. Failing honey I used sugar, an excell ent substitute.

At 5.30 p.m. on November rzth, 1890, we felt two shocks of earthquake, a disagreeable experience, to which one never gets accustomed. A few days later we had the pleasure of a short, bright visit from our Bishop, who proceeded next day to Kati Kati for con firmation.

Be ing seized with an ever-increasing desire to .have live hedges instead of post and wire fences on the property, and finding bakea on the whole the most

esirable plant, I effected with' a niece a most satisfac tory exchange. Of her abundance of hakea she

ave me II tOZS. at IS. 3d. for 86ilbs. of my superfluous honey at zd. !

W e got invitations for a fancy dress ball in T auranga, which, on account of advancing years and a iling health, Hugh and I could not accept; but Mervy n did, and was most distinguished as an Indian horseman, the costume being my home-made, humble imit ation of his uncle's Poona Horse uniform.

E arly in December Hugh, with a Planet Junior seed-drill, sowed in a field four miles of white carrots and two and a-half miles of swedes. The ollowing day he and all the men be could muster

went to Waihi to vote for Shepherd Allen,' who, unfortunately, was not returned.

T hen Hugh had the pleasure of a few days' visit I

lI8 MY SIMPLE LIFE IN NEW ZEALAND. 18g1

from Colonel C--, Royal Artillery, an old friend of his early days, the same to whom we gave our second cuckoo clock in honour of his approaching marriage. We invited all our friends to meet him, and under the oaks, which had grown immensely, we had our lunch, followed by walks, talks, and tea, after which they departed. One of our guests, so keen on waving his adieux, looked back, took too sharp a turn, and capsized the trap with his wife, who was quite overcome, but, refusing my offer of a night's quarters, pluckily continued her nine miles' drive home in the repaired trap.

Niels, a Dane, was now kept busy, with Hugh's directions and help, clearing ground on Mervyn's ninety acres, a quarter of a mile off, for a watercourse to a suitable spot for a hydraulic ram to supply our house with water. They were much hindered by rain, which came down in torrents on January rst, 18gI. However, it did not stop the young people going to a fancy ball in the Orange Hall on the znd. On a lovely morning, the 3rd, they returned, some to work, the majority to sleep , being ready for tennis, tea, and a hop to wind np!

Our young men were in great demand for harvesting all round, preferring these outings to prosaic potato-digging at home! They shot a good many godwits and caught plenty of fish. T hese were much appreciated on the table. In February . we had

eautiful peaches, some dozens of w hich we sold in aihi at IS. j but prices soon wen t down as they

became more plentiful. T omatoes also were a dru in the market. With my horne-made vinegar Dim and I boiled gallo ns of tomato sauce as . follows : Blbs , tomat oes cu t up finely, I gallon vinegar, al b, salt, zl bs. brown sugar, 3lbs. ap ples, 3Ibs. onions,

1891 1dY SIMPLE - J..IFE IN NE W ZEALAND. II9

lOZ. garlic, 30zs. black pepper, I OZ. each cayenne and cloves. Bo il al l together slowly for three hours; stra in; bottle, cork tightly an d seal.

My good Dinah, after a years stay, left me in HuB, the hott est weather, and, needless to say, soon go t married. She was succeeded by Maggie, a goo d natured irish girl-lOS. a week, 28s. 6d. tra vellingexpenses, and 5s. fee to the R egistry O ffi ce where I got her. With all that I had to teach her everything. This was hard for her and for me j but she soon improved. We both appreciated the grand water-supply which the hydraulic ram was by this time conveying to the house, thanks to Hugh's skilful engineering, with about twenty taps in and around the house to draw from. In this respect and that of store-rooms, cupboards, shelves, etc., made by Hugh, I was better off than any other woman in Kati Kati or even New Zealand!

One day the kitchen chimney was on fire . The roaring noise and flames bursting out of the top were most alarming. Hugh was in Anckland on business, so his help was not available. I ran to the slaughterhouse, where Mervyn and a friendly butcher had killed one of our bullocks for beef. This quiet, practical man said :

.. It 's the best possible way to clean your chimneys all such a wet day, when the roof cou ld not burn." And so we admired the beauty and nse of the fire, which soon went out.

On the morning of June 24th, 1891, I was gardening, kneeling on the grass and planting bulbs from Floral Park, New York, when I heard a low, rumbling noise, and felt the ground heaving under me. This was another earthquake.

July was a very wet month, and we planted more

120 M ~ SIMPLE LI FE IN NEW ZEALAND. 1891

peaches, nectarines, other fruit and shelter-trees. The pruning of fruit trees had now become an important and long job in winter. Each month brought some extra work in vegetable and flower-gardens and orchard. The more we did the more we wanted to do; and having extended all these departments, they had to be cultivated, weeded, etc. Having so many deciduous as well as everg-reen trees, their leaves fell all the year round. This provided plenty of work, especially on Saturdays, in raking and burning.

Years having passed since our visit to a dentist we took another trip to Tauranga, having wired to kind friends who had invited us that we were coming. But we arr ived before the wire, got a warm welcome and most comfortable quarters, our host placing his carriage and horses at our disposal during the days we spent with him. Altogether we enjoyed ourselves very much-even our visits to the dentist, under whose gentle treatment I actually fell asleep. The charming daughters of our host (then a widower) got up at 4 a.m, to give us a good breakfast and see us off by coach. We had a very cold drive to McDonnell's Hotel, Kati Kati, where we had a second good breakfast and so on to Athenree. Spring (October) having come there was plenty to do on my poultry farm, especially when my incubator began hatching chicks and there was a large little family in the brooder-house or foster-mother. Next to gardening, poultry-rearing was my favourite outdoor occupation, and, beginning in earliest days by knowing nothing, slowly and surely I year by year gained more and more practical experience with ever-increasing success, until by dint of patience and perseverance, undaunted by visitors or weather, I was rewarded with eggs all the year round, and ducks and chickens for dinner whenever wanted.


November was the busy month for sowing maize and sunflower for fowl-feed, the latter being most desirable when in autumn the birds were moultjpg. As the first feather dropped, generally the first sun.flower had seeded, and for the ensuing weeks Hugh would cut and fill a kit with seed-heads for th e hens, who devoured them so greedily that in a few mi nutes the husks alone remained.

H aving raised rock and water-melons from seed sown, one of each in September, in an egg shell in boxes in the verandah, November was the t ime to plant them out- generally a successful opera tion, as by simply cru shing the shell th e plan t got the benefit of th e lime and the roots were undisturbed.

r892 began with a full house and the usual extra work, harvesting and, th is year, thrashing wh eat for

. my poultry, which was good for egg produc tion and less heat ing a nd fattening than mai ze in summer .

On J an uary rfith we heard the sad news of P rince Albert Victor's death and a t once hoisted our Un io Jack half mast high.

his year we had so good a crop of whe at that we sent six sacks of it to the Kati Kati miller, who in due t ime returned as many more of flour, polla rd and bran . We had also very good clover, which was stored for winter feed for the cows. The fowls also got their share of it. Cut into chaff and mixed with pollard and milk it made wholesome lime-producing food, inv aluable.for the formation of egg shell.

W hen winter came, guavas rip ened and I made lots of jelly.

Mervyn was constantly bringing home much fish, schnappers (something like a haddock). Therefore Hugh built a smoke-house and with loads of pine needles, which were always falling and lay thick on

I2Z MY SIMPLE LIFE IN NEW ZEALAND. r892

the ground, .rnost successfully smoked these fish. They were excellent for breakfast, which now-a-days was varied with mutton chops, beef steak, liver and bacon, ham and eggs, all farm produce, not to mention abundance of milk, cream and butter, with plenty of horne-made bread, marmalade and jams.

With an annual return of 8,000 to 10,000 eggs I was able to sell some at prices ranging from 6d. to IS. zd, a dozen, guaranteed new laid. I reared from ISO to 200 chickens and ducks annually, with a ready sale at IS. 6d. to 2S. each, but we ate most of them.

Sometimes we wuuld get an order for a hundred dozen lemons, 6d.-sos.; and from now on could always supply it. But the demand was limited. Onions at rd. per. lb., cucumbers 6s. doz. tomatoes rd.Tb., were also saleable, so that gradually I was increasing my pin-money by £80 to £100 a year.

A most deplorable accident occurred on July 23rd. At 9 a.m. a young half-caste came riding in haste to say that "the Mount Stewart boat had foundered off the Kati Kati Heads with three men clinging to the mast." These were a nephew of Hugh's, his brotherin-law, and their partner in a fishing business. Hu g h offered £5 for help and sent his man with whisky in case of need, but it was of no avail, the boat and poor men having disappeared almost immediately. They left three widows and several fatherless children. Mervyn rode through the Settlement telling the sad news and gathering ' a search party; but although all the young men in Kati Kati were out in boats or on horse back for days, many of them dining and sleeping at Athenree, nothing was found, until on the sixteenth day one poor body, that of our fine young nephew, came ashore on the beach and was laid to rest in the cemetery.

oli ll) to <: ll) ..c +'-c 1;1 <1l <: Ql

o (/)

1892 . MY SIMPLE LIFE IN NEW ZEALAND. .1 2 3

On December 1St, 1892, I sowed twenty-four pips of beautiful Tonga oranges that Mervyn had bought in Auckland. They soon germinated and grew into . fine tre es, with frequent transplanting, being healthy and six or eight feet high, but not yet bearing when we left in 1906.

A day or two after, we were enlivened by strains of music, and found it was the Waihi Miners' Band driving past to the Kati Kati Orange Hall. We turned out in force, and with refreshment in the shape of my hop beer. On their return home next day they called in, played to us on the lawn, got dinner and strolled about the place.

The weather being very hot, Hugh regularly got up at 5 a.m. to churn, I following suit when he called out "Butter has come," to pass it through the butt er worker and make it up into pounds, wrapped in parchment paper stamped "Athenree Separator." This work was followed three or four times a week with bread-making, to be baked after breakfast. Having finished that meal, the poultry had at once to be attended to, Mervyn having given them a feed between 6 and 7 a.m, before milking. After his breakfast he daily cleaned my fowl-house and fed his calves, horses, etc. We three were as busy as bees until .we met at one o'clock dinner, after which we rested awhile, and like giants refreshed dispersed again to our various occupations.

One day a commercial traveller called begging help to repair his damaged bicycle, the first to pass through the district. Hugh's tools and talents were promptly at his disposal, and mended matters. This young man was for ever grateful for this and a night's hospitali ty.

r893 began with so much rain that the majority of

L1t RA1U


our visitors at this festive season had to be put up for the night.

Having a walnut tree bearing well, I pickled six bottles-full successfully, with my horne-made vinegar. It would be wearisome to enumerate my changes of servants and helps; the regret at parting with a good girl on her marriage, or reli ef at a useless one leaving because "Mother has broken her leg," or "is dying," or "wants me to look after the baby," et c. Then I wa s often for weeks without help, but got no sympathy because all my friends were in the same plight. For a time I had Florence, a charming Australian, most cheery and zealons, who worked well and played the piano well, attracting endless visitors by her music and charms. Among these were two young men, quite strangers, and by their dress evidently "new chums," who appeared in a buggy at the gate, got out, walked into the verandah and knocked. "Come in," said I from my sofa where I was resting, and could see them through ~he . French window. Hesitatingly, they entered.

"How do you do? Won't you sit down? Excuse my getting up ; this is my easy hour."

"But you don't know us." "That does not matter a bit; del ighted to see

you! " " Did you get our wire? " " No." " We sent one yesterday from Auckland." "Oh I that won't come till to-morrow." " What are we to do? " " Send away your buggy, and stop here." "Show Mrs. Stewart that letter, Noel." This

proved to be an introduction from my Cousin Archie to us of these two very pleasant young men travelling


round th e world, who spent a day or two with us, making sundry notes, which one said was for his diary, the other for a book - each warning me to " beware" of the other.

On March rzth, Hugh's mother, now very old (over 90) and frail, spent a day with us, which proved to be her last visit to Athenree, for she passed away on April 19th, and was laid to rest beside the dear old father in Kati Kati cemetery.

We had a visit from a very good dentist, who attended to us all, and many neighbours, in our d rawing-room. As my lady-help was the chief sufferer, and had to take chloroform, administered by a friendly doctor from Waihi, I had to act as dentist 's assistant and tea-provider.

Florence, getting rather weari ed of admirers, especially of one , and seeing . no other escape, after several months at Athenree, to my grea t regret, left me, and naturally soon married, but not that man.

On June 29th I heard of the death at Aden, on May 18th, of my dear brother. For many years I had given up wearing black for mourn ing, having no

:essmaker or time myself to make new black things, Which, indeed, would have been far less mournful

nd more becoming than my usu al working-clothes. he busy life was robbing me of sentiment. An old " sundowner," Bob Leslie, whom Hugh

ha d engaged to dig carrots, having done some work, got £2 lOS. from Hugh, and after some wet weather, rendering the roads very soft and muddy, walked to the Uretara " to buy clothes;" he bought something else, for he was known to have returued in the middle of the night covered from head to foot, especia lly arms and hands, with mud, murmuring, "A good job I was not riding thro ugh them swam ps; far safer to


go on hands and knees!" Hugh sold surplus carrots at 2S. 6d. per cwt. in great quantities.

Towards the end of August I got, by post, from Providence Spinning Mills, Bradford, Yorkshire, a great bundle of giant and other wools; the former to make a "tricot couvrepieds " for my sofa, imagining such a big piece of work would keep me busy for reeks. But the wool and needle both being so thick,

r began the rug on one Saturday, and finished it the 'next, and possess it still , as good as ever.

One day Mervyn and a cousin caught 36 scnnappers, put them in the smoke-house, leaving Bob Leslie to smoke them; this he did so effectually that he nearly burnt the house down. All th e others being out J enny, the s~rva n t, and I caught up every available bucket, an d from t he horse-t rough supplied by the hydraulic ram, ran backwards an d forwa rds the short distance with wate r as fast as we could, and put out the fire. I t was an alarming outbreak in a spot surrounded by pine trees, which might easi lv have carr ied fire to the ho use.

1894, New Year's day, found me busy and interested, making pictu resque costu mes for a fancy dress ball in the hall on th e 4th. Mervyn was a " Bedouin Arab ," his pre tty cousin, "Nancy L ee." T hey came home from the baU at 6.30 ' a. m., had an early breakfast with H ugh and me, and retired till one. This was followed towards the end of the month by a dance at Athenree, the most popular form of enterment for a house full of young people for the holidays. One of our girl-guests was so fond of milk that she always had her special jug of it filled by Mervyn in the dairy. No one else was allowed to touch it.

One Sunday, Hugh and I had, as usual, strolled


round the farm. On our return home, this pretty girl ran to meet us.

"Oh, Mrs. Stewart, there are five young tramps in the kitchen, so tired and so hungry; I gave them all my milk, but they want something to eat." This they got. Then I enquired r-i- .

" What are you all doing on the road on Sunday?" " Looking for work." " How's that? " "We chucked up our billets at Christmas, went

gum-digging, got burnt out" lost everything except th e clothes we are wearing, and want work."

Hugh did not really want a ' lad of this type, but said I might engage one at lOS. a week. This I told them.

" Which of you can plough? " " Chorus ; "We can all plough! " "Which of you can milk? " Louder chorus; "We can all milk! " "Then you must decide among yourselves which you will stay for lOS. a week. " " W e'll all stay! " " I will come back in ten minutes, and hear your

decision." Th e lot fell to Tom Sargeson, as good a farm-hand

s we ever had. Thus we were very lucky. What became of his mates we never heard, but Tom stopped with us two or three years, got an insatiable desire to travel, took a trip home as a sailor, and saw many couutr ies ; returning to New Zealand to marry, and se tt le down as a house-painter.

After sixteen years of good, steady wear we re h eed our drawing-room carpet with a new one

ro m Hampton, Pall Mall, and left it at Athenree not 11.1ch the worse for wear twelve years after.

128 MY SIMPLE LIFE IN NEW ZEA LAND. 1894

On May loth this year, 1894, we at e th e first ripe persimmons off trees planted in 1886-a sweet, slimy, disappo inting fruit we th ought it.

T he invaluable T om, amo ng many other acc omplishments, was skilful with mortar and tr owel. On wet days he repaired all the fire-plac es that needed it. He was also an arti st in water-colours and spent his evenings very happily paiut ing soldiers or jockeys and horses for choice!

\Ve had so much wet weather that it made Hugh ill. We sent to W aihi for a doctor, wh o pronounced it bronchial catarrh, and Hu gh was quite an invalid for a month.

One fine day Mervyn planted along our river-ban ks one hundred cupressus macrocarpa trees from seed I had sown less th an a year previously. Many of them had grown into fine trees when we left Athenree twelve years lat er.

I had such an accumulation of feathers and down from home-consumed duck s and chickens, th at after baking and picking th em, I made many pillows. Still there were mor e, so with ticking and tapestry, I made a two foot six inches double cushion, called in furniture catalogues a Parisian Pouf or Oriental Settee, quite handsome and comfortable!

My good serv ant, j enny, aft er bein g with us over a year, left to get married, and was, luck ily for me, soon followed by Agnes, young and inexperienced; but I was glad of any help.

On Septemb er znd there was snow in Auckland but not at Athenree, although here it was bitterly cold, with sufficient frost to black en early pot atoes, cinerarias, heliotropes, cannas, ban anas, etc.

On November 8th we received letters from home, dated September rjth, stained and torn, marked

1894 MY SIMPLE LIFE IN NEW ZEALAND. I29

It Saved from the wreck of the Wairarapa," off Great Barrier Island.

From earliest days there had been a debt on the Orange Hall, used for all social gatherings in the tow nship. The term of the mortgage having expired, and th ere being a difficulty about renewing it,

ete rrnined to payoff the debt by means of a baz aar. My hours on the sofa were pleasantly spent at all kinds of plain and fancy work for this good ause. I took ord ers for shirts, som e extra large ones

for a very t all friend in Waihi. Our piano-tnner called for his regnlar visit, and seeing me so busy became interested, and sent me six dozen pipes for " Aunt Sally," whom we introduced on bazaar-day! Contributions from home and near friend s came po uring in. The unpacking of parcels was quite ex

iting. Then came the pricing of articles, requiring zare an d judgment, so I always shut myself up alone in a room to do it. Then I put everything away arefully out of sight in a cupboard-room which

l1ugh had built for me. Thus 1895 opened busily with qnite a new interest, added to the usual honseII I of visitors and cart-loads of fruit to sell or to preerve. I made dozens of bottles of cider, lemon yrup, etc. T he former was delicious, thus made : :ut up any sort of small or windfall apples ; to every

billy of fruit add the same measure of boiling wat er in a wooden tu b ; cover up. After a few days bubbles will be seen on t he top. Strain through a canvas bag. T o every ga llon ad d r-Ib sugar, sti r well, bottle, cork, tie tightly with string. In two or three weeks in hot weather this will be fi t to drin k, effervescing a nd refreshing- a most popular beverage.

1anuary rSth, the bazaar day at last. F lags dorned our ent rance-gates. Admission free. F lowers

and vegetables for sale under the trees. Diningroom laid out for refreshments: tea, coffee, lemonade, cider, sandwich, cakes, pastry, fruits, sweets, etc.any one thing for a penny. Thus those coming from a distance could get a meal for 6d. The drawingroom had several stalls covered with useful and ornamental things. attended to by kind friends and relations. One lady spent all day at a "Post Office," wh ere for 3d. could be bought a letter containing toy or trinket and a packet of sweets. This was most popular with the children, and so was" Aunt Sally," pipe in mouth. " T hree shots a penny," cried Tom, armed with sticks; it made £2. The total proceeds were £26 for the Orange Hall, whose owners wr ote me a most grateful acknowledgment-ample reward for my trouble and somewhat over-exertion; for I was not growing younger and felt it! Also the hopelessness of efficient help when I was suffering. Agnes went to a school-treat, was thrown from her horse, and could scarcely move for days, having hurt her knee; so her father came and took her away for ten days' rest; but after that she was still laine, so we decided to part.

My turn for a rest had come, so having taught Tom to make bread, I went by a little steamer to Tauranga, thence by a larger one-and a very disturbed, rough night-to Auckland, and drove by appointment to a Nursing Home. Here the life did not suit me at all, so I was out nearly all day and knocked up so completely that I changed my quarters to the North Shore, a short ferry-trip from Auckland, and there I spent a month pleasantly and restfully. I renewed acquaintance with the Public Librarian, an old Bermuda friend, the old Army days being a delightful subject to discuss.

131MY SIMPLE LI FE IN NEW ZEALAND.(IS

The house I was boarding in was very old for New aland. It was said to be fifty years old and had

ht :(~n a pilot-sta tion and fort. It stood in a pretty uden, where a man was at work (7s. a day) "tidy

fig up." which seemed to resolve itself into digging J'p earth, plants and bulbs by the spadeful and replacing them topsy-turvy! Such heroic treatment /as a t rying sight for one who loves flowers. These,

tI the shape of chrysanthemums, I saw to perfection \ t a show in the Choral Hall, April r8th. The looms were immense and of every possible colour, all uown in the open air.

pril 28th, our silver wedding day, we celebrated by log photographed, Hugh having joined me on the rth Shore. T ogether we returned home via uranga on May znd, delighted to see Mervyn well.

onsequence of this visit we made another effort 11 Athenree. For a year or more we were kept

uspense and uncertainty with enquiries and pos1bla purchasers, eventually withdrawing the property

sale, We succeeded only with our third atrnpt. We had in June a flutter of excitement in a visit

JIlin a high official of the Waihi Gold Mining Comny. asking leave to continue a water-race many

miles long from Waihi, to culminate in Electri"c Works on our land. Visions of electric light and .very possible labour-saving appliance rose before our ired eyes; but they were never fulfilled. While iope las ted we were happy and enjoyed the pleasant society of the young surveyors who camped in our

rn and often spent an evening with us. In November Hugh began selling July lambs, 7S•

ch. T he same purchaser took new potatoes, ad, r lb. , eggs 8d. dozen, and butter Sd, per lb.

1895 MY SIM PLE LIFE IN NEW ZEALAND.130


A kind cousin at this time sent me a draft urging me to go to her in Edinburgh for medical advice, but how could. I leave Ath enr ee for an indefinite period? So I did not go.

1896 began busily and gaily, with no end of picnic parties and visit ors, among them sometimes one or other of my old servants who had married, and from year to year brought a new baby to show me. Greatnieces, too, were get ting plentiful, and it amused me to have one or two for an occasional visit, teach them little hymns, collects, music, patch-work, etc. They also, if inclined to weed my walks and flowerbeds, earn ed nice little sums in pennies, which they were proud to spend in the Store on their return hom e.

Two ladi es came from Rotorua to stay with us. They were fatigued after the long drive, and had to st op in bed, fearing they might have contracted typhoid fever, which was prevalent in Rotorua, Mercifully it , was not so. Their visit was most opportune, as they helped me t o get rid of a terrible old woman wh o had been recommended to me as a "general." They took her in their buggy to Waihi to await the coach to the Thames, for which she started, after unwise refresh men t, in th e highest spirits. I had hardly got rid of her when t here arrived on foot a young coupl e with a dear little baby, asking for food and shelter, having walked many miles after a quarrelwith relations with whom they shared a cott age. T he man went next day to look for work, got it, and took away his wife an d child in two or thr ee days.

One day in May two big men call ed to ask for work. Hugh engaged them to fell trees for firewood. Dinner was over; I had uo servant. The men were

MY SI M ~ LE LIFE IN N .l::W ZEALno ..., . I33

hungry, 50 I fed them. T hey unpacked thei " swags II in t he tram ps' quar t ers, got a good suppe nd went to bed. Next morning, when I wenl fo

the beef-steak pie J had made for 7.30 a.rn, breakfast It was gone ! So was th e cold roast beef and half

of bread ! Quickly I fried ham and eggs for I. P resently, when feeding poultry, I cam e across

our two new men. ood morning. Did you hear that we, had

Visitors last night? II ,j No, ma'am ; we did not." I j T hey took all my cooked meat. " II T he villains! We'll watch for them to-night; so

l ' will. I

., I hope you did not go to bed hungry? II •• Us hungry? How could we, ma'm, with the

dinner and supper you gave us? " ut 1 believe they had been out of work for some

rune, were really starving, and did rob my larder. I had unexpected visitors, making ten for dinner

hn day, so I was busy-rather too busy-when rehef came in the shape of Emily, a good servant

m Auckland, destined not to stop long because he found it too quiet."H

ne Sunday Hugh and I strolled' along the Gorge Road to watch twenty bullocks dragging eight tons

mining mach inery for the Waihi Gold Mining mpany. Slow ly and surely they plodd ed along,

pulling with all their might, encouraged by the crack Hf stock-whips and incessant shouts - Brandy I "

H W hisky ! " "Lion! JJ "Tiger I " "Bob 1" " Jack! " II Charl ie I" "Billy 1"- up and down the doubleyoke line. However, this means of transit was too low, therefore a traction engine was sent from

T aumnga, which took in water at Athen-ree. LikeK

135 134 MY SIMPLE LIFE IN NEW ZEALAND. r896

wise the staff took tea and hop-beer, returning next day with a load for Waihi.

Early in November we regretfully parted with Tom, who, having been with us three years, felt a longing to travel, and so carried out his wish by turning sailor. Luckily for farm work he was soon re-placed by Frank. We were having such dry weather that watering was too laborious; therefore I made 160 yards of white drill hose, which, after being oiled, answered fairly well to carry our good water supply to my thirsty flower garden.

Having plenty of loquats I made a pie of th-emnot nice..

.Bees in swarms here, there, and everywhere; even in one bedroom, which, in consequence, no one could enter. The bees were building between the weatherboards and lining, so that boards had to be torn down and boiling water poured over th e bees. Thus they were expelled.

Just before Christmas there came a great party of Rotorua Maoris, who asked leave to camp for a night on Mervyn's land, adjoining Athenree, They had a great many horses, for which they bought feed. We gave them hop-beer and cider, in return for which they danced and gave us a haka to the music of their own brass band.

We enjoyed our Christmas. dinner under our oaks one lovely summer's day.

1897 began very hot and dry, increased on 4th by a roaring bush fire, with dense smoke enveloping the country, and gradually coming nearer and nearer Athenree. On the third day we felt our house must go, as the fire had leapt across the river to our side. Mercifully some gaps in our plantations of pinus insignia and eucalypti ch ecked the flames, and so we


caped, The fire-swept country was dreary and solate and black for many years, and deprived

ur sheep of much feed. One very hot January day a ro-ton pump, said to

h, worth £2,000, went by hauled by a traction II ~ ine from T inpot Castle landing to the W aihi ~() ld Mining Company. On the following Sunday

• had a very pleasant day. T wenty members of the Wuihi Brass Band, with many friends of th eirs and

(about fi fty in a ll), came by coaches and horses ..pend the day. I had been cooking all Saturday I

111.1 with help from th e you ng guests ga ve them all m ner on t he law n, both before and after w hich the nd discoursed really lovely m usic. T hen came tea,

II Id ling and harn essing, and away they all went with ers and thanks.

\ l the end of the lawn H ug h had built ~ fine. unmer-house, furnished with easy ch airs and tables,

I r<:rt.~ I spent the hot aftern oons whenever I got a I l..mce, Hu gh often maki ng and bri ng ing me tea here.

Early in March we sent out a hundred invitations dance on the 17th, which from on e cause and

r)IJlher- advancing years, uncertain health, scarce h . ' I I'~-had not been kept up as at first. Matters hHving improved with the advent of Mollie, a splendid

Iy-help , we spent our spare time with preparations. I Iug h hung up a 350 candle-power lamp (kerosene)

hich we had imported from Chicago. The house l "; brilliantly lit up, and before 8 o'clock arrived our

nests in the usual independent colonial style. Ladies It! lIlg carried their ba ll-dresses in a kit in front of hem, some of the frocks needing a hot iron to smoot h

o ut the creases. The crowd and talk in my bedrn- the ladies' cloak-room I-which I had evacu


ated at 7 p. m., can bett er be im agin ed than described. Then came tea, coffee, dancing and supper--all over at 5 a. rn, Breakfast for visitors at IO and general dispersion. There was so much supper left that on Sunday we had ano ther sacred concert on the lawn, this tim e th e band numbering tw enty -six and guests over fifty- a charming entertainment with lunch and tea for all. T he cool grass and shade of trees were much app rec ia ted by our friends from W aihi aft er the dust and gla re of th at place.

In th ose days, in that out -of-the-way spo t, we were fortunately not familiar with influenza, bu t early in June I felt as if I cou ld work no more; sti ll I had to go on, but on th e fourth day, afte r feeding fowls, I had to lie down for a few hours and for severa l days did the same, our doctor from Waihi sayiug I had a sharp a.ttack of influ enza-needless to describe my sufferings. All th e world has experienced them, but from not "giving in " th en I have never recovered.

On June zand many set tlers ga the red to plant J ubilee trees in th e recreation ground at the Ureta ra, with much singing of "God save the Qu een."

Hugh, in th e middle of winter, spent nearl y two or three weeks in bed wi th th at painful ailmen t , " shingles."

In Angust we had rain more prol onged and heavy th an it had ever been before. W e had two old tramps storm-staid here. No on e could work outside, but all were hungry at meal-times!

September brought fine weather; then all turned to gardening. A pa.ge would not con tain the list of flower and vegetable seeds that we sowed. I worked with all my might in th e garden, findin g it most soothing aft er cooking and such-like. No one can


over-estimate the pleasure of tending flowers. T he: ire the one thing in the world that does not disrppoint ; th ey are true friends.

Hugh appli ed to the Acclimatisation Soci ety an a t t iny trout, whi ch he put in our river; but the,

fell a lJrey to shags and eels, for we never saw th em gam.

I n November Mervyn made me a present of a dozen butilons from Hay's Montpelier N ursery, Auckland. hey were of most varied colours and grew very

rapidly into six and eight feet high trees, sowing heir own seeds and in two or th ree years form in u ite a plant ation. Hugh planted banan as in the me locality. The plants g rew well and were very

emamenral, but the fruit did not ripen th oroughly. . added considera bly to our dahlias-double, single

cactus- which did remarkably we ll and gave no ub le. E very second or at the utmost third yea r

up the pla nts, threw away the prolific superundance of tubers, and re-planted one of each. Just before Christmas, Frank asked for a fort

ight's holiday to get married in Auckland. \Ve h ng-aged his br ide to help me wit h the work , but sne id not acquiesc e, which, unfortunately, ultimately

Jed to Frank leaving us. Having this season been very successful with the.

rearing of du cks, I was able to execute an order' for 'arty-four at 2S. from Waitekauri, a . mining tOWD

'yond Wa ihi. Th is Christ mas Day was for .me th e busiest on

record, which is saying a good deal. Crowds of Maoris met here to perform their ablutions at our unlimited wate r-supply on their way to a gr eat meeting at Alf Faulkner's. My lady-help 's father brought a horse and took he r home, thus leaving

138 MY SIM PLE LIFE IN NEW ZEALAND. 1898

me to cook roast beef, ch ickens, plu m-pudding, etc., for selves an d visitors, who went in th e aft ernoon, whil e I rest ed, to see the Maori Sp orts, and th ere met all the world and his wife.

r 8g8 began with ex tre mely hot weather, and no help except from Hu gh and Mer vyn, who had plenty ofot her more congenial occupations than firewoodchopping, washing clothes, d ishes, plates , etc., but they did it for me. They were most useful on Saturday, March 5th, keep ing up th e kitchen fire, working up my bread, rolling out pastry, mixing ca kes, and preparing fish for sousing, because next day by longstanding invitation cam e th e Waihi Band. Including visitors, we had nearly seventy for dinner and tea. Our friendly neighbour, Mrs. AIL F aulkner, brought a gen erous contribu tion to the feast of roast goose, preser ved q uin ces, melons and cakes, wh ich were handed to me by E uphe mia, her Maori cou sin, from Gisborn e. Euphemia offered to help me, and most efficiently she did 'so, working hard all day and leaving on me so favourable an impression that wh en a week later she asked me to take her I gladly agreed, for r os, a week, and never regretted it.

With so many year s' practical experience, chickens, ducks and eggs were very plentiful, and I readily sold all that I could spare at suc h p riccsras enco uraged me' to go on and have more next year.

Early in April we had a call from two lady cyclists from W aihi, the first to be so venturesom e, as the road was very rough and winding.

At the end of the month I was the proud wi nn er of first prize for chrysanthemums at the Kati Kati Show, the first held there-a most creditable display of flowers, fruit and vegetable s. Unfortunat ely it .did not becom e an annual affair, owing to differences

18g8 MY SIMPL E LIFE IN NEW ZEALAND. 139

f opinion in the management. Still, in hopes I wen t on planting, and now got from Hay, Auckland, a charming collection of bulbs, all of which

ew to perfection-e-alliums, alstrornerias, babianas, cyrtanthus, lachenalias, scillas, sparaxis, freesias, stern bergias, tritonias, tulips and z ephyranthus.

Another crowd of Maoris asked leave to camp in one of our fields. These were quite wealthy, and pa id 6d. for grazing, and IS. a feed for each horse; bought mutton at 4d. and potatoes at rd. per lb.

E uphemia was most clever a t bottling fruit. She loved to watch me cooking, lo oked so interest ed, and said, "Let me do that next t im e." Curry, rissoles,

astry, lemon-cheese and so forth, succeeded well; and when her work was over, jumping astride a barebacked horse, she would ride home to make the same

ood things there. She whitewashed the kitchen wal lsand ceiling, her dark curly locks enveloped in a owel, and her bare brown feet noiselessly jumping

from step-ladder to table, table to chair. Sh e could sew, but was not able to cut out, so I taught her,

g inn ing with an apron, then a blouse; th e latter with a pap er pattern. However, this she despised, and cut out t he next one for herself without pa ttern ,

lt ogether by eye, allowing for t ucks and gathers, such as she had seen and admired on one of my visitors. and an admirable fit it proved. .

A young Scotch engineer, just landed, and sornewhat stranded, called one day asking for work of any sort. Although Hugh did not need help he engaged him at IOS. a week (times being hard for casual work in the nineti es), .and found him very clever and useful ; so much so that he very soon got work at gs. a day from the Waihi Gold Mining Company. How could we compete with that?

140 MY SIMPLE LIFE IN NEW ZEALAND. 18g8

On wet days I cut out American leather covers for my little trap cushi ons, and a rainy month soon got them finished-quite a triumph of upholstery.

Athenree, although only nin e miles from Waihi, had a much mil der climat e, tempered by Pacific Ocean breezes, whereas Waihi enjoys bracing mountain air. Consequ ently it had no flowers in mid-winter as we had. As that town ad vanced , so also did balls a nd banquets, needing floral decorati ons, for which I got many orde rs, and was able to send for 5s. a large box (usual drap ers' dress size) packed with red, white and pink camellias, arums, daffodils, violets, fr eez ias, etc., not omitti ng to enclo se button-holes for th e gent leme n, all in masses of feathery wattle.

One of a mob of fat ca tt le being driven from T auranga to Thames fell lam e, so that he could travel no more, therefore th e dri vers asked leave to kill him in our yard, gave me th e tongue and to ok away the carcass in our car t.

By the Waihi coach came in July an anonymous parcel from Auckland of twenty vari eti es of ann uals, per ennials and cuttings, which I pro mptly planted in every available spot in flower-garden, beds, and borders. The maj ority lived and bloomed, but th ey had a fight with frost ea rly in August which blackened bananas, cannas, cinerarias, nasturtiums and tacsonias.

Farm-work was all behind for want of a ma n, when one came from an office in Auckl and at 20S. a week. My heart failed me when I saw h im; he was a good enough worker, bu t a most disagreeable in mate of our peaceful home.

Once more our hopes and spirits rose when a surveyor and' staff came t o ca mp at Athenree to survey

18g8 MY SIMPLE LIFE IN NEW ZEALAND. 141

\ railway from th e Grand J unction Gold Mine, W aihi, through our land to th e sea. With what interest we watched th e men clearing a lin e, putti ng in pegs and generally brightening up the scene dur ing 1he fortnight they spent with us. Howev er, ag ai n we were doomed to disappointment, for the Mine management chauge d and th e railway-any ra ilway in that locality- is still unmad e. This was one of th e reasons for our leaving Ath enr ee eight years later.

T owards the end of the winter I planted ten various hou vardias, inval uabl e for cutt ing and button-holes,

nd sowed endless annuals. H ugh found his ploughman insufferable, and to ld

h im to " gu," but th ere was no room for him in the coach aud he could not walk, ha ving a great deal of luggage. H e appeared at meals sullen and morose,

nd told a girl-visito r of mine th at he " intended to bu rn down the house to-night." Therefore, Mervyn vent for the local Constable, but failed to fi nd him.

No t hing would ind uce me to go to bed so Hu gh, having bro ught in plenty of firewo od , he agreed t o sit li p too, and we closed round th e drawing- room fire, I darn ing stockings, H ugh read ing aloud to me and ou r

isi tor. Presently we heard ste ps in the vera nda h approaching the F rench window opening into the draw ing-room. " Our last moment has come" thought I, picturing our old l una tic with a revolver , hill happ ily it was on ly a fine-looking belated traveller, askin g for a bed. Vi e told him of our anxiety, with wh ich he sympathised, but not enuugh to preveut him going to bed, pro misin g to come to our rescue at th e sligh test call. W e did not distu rb hi m,

zither were we again distur bed. At dawn Hug h mad e tea, which we all enjoyed, then from the bay wi ndow we saw the sun rise. Our protecting visitor

142 MY SIMPLE LIFE IN NEW ZEALAND. 18g8

departed with thanks; so also did the old lunatic, with out a row, having got a lift in a neighbour's cart. Hugh SOon got Bill, a fine young worker.

Lieut. Sharp, S.A., came for a "shake down, 1I his bike having come to grief.

Euphemia having, Maori-like, got tired of the order and routine of AthenJee, wen t home for a fortnight. My girl-visitor kindly stopped to help me, and among other things covered-most skilfully, some with tap estry, others with cretonne--our sofas and chairs, preliminary to spring-cleaning.

As an illustration of how th e New Zealand Government tri es to check pests we had, on October 17th, a visit from Mr. Boucher, Government Vine Inspector, who found phylloxera among ours, dug them up and burnt them. . These vines had been imported from America. W e had neither energy nor pluck t o try vine-growing again.

The fame of my prize-winning chrysanthemums having spread, I was inundated with requests for plants and spent much spare time in lifting, labelling, and packing them for parcel post all over New Ze aland.

aving thoroughly weeded the ca rr iage-d! ive round the house, we gav e Alf an order to cover it with shell s, whi ch he did for £ 3. T hese shells needed t he crushing of light traffic to make th em pleasant to walk on, especially in thin shoes ; they were a dazzlingly white an d trying to the eyes in bright sunshine; but we could get nothing else, th ere being no gravel-pits as at home.

In November, E uphemia, planted kurnaras (sweet potatoes) for me th us : ha ving got from bee Auntie bundle of cuttings, or shoots, from las t year's kumara, she planted one of each in a drill, four feet apart in

Ibo8 MY SIMPI.,.E LIFE IN NEW ZEALAND. I43

"very direction. These soon grew and ran all over the iund, care being taken to lift the vines from time to

lime so th at they should not take root alon g their iourse. In 'aut umn we had a good crop, which s uphemia dug and stored in a pit-hole in th e ground overed with earth. ' . . . . . .

T he Government Post Office Inspector paid Hugh one of his surprise visits. Needless to say, he found III the office-work correct, but mad e rather disparagi llg remarks about the housemaid's work,

On December 8th Mervyn, being Honorary Secr eta ry of the Kati Kati Road Board, dr ove to Waihi \0 interview the Premier, the Right H onourable ~ ic h a rd J. Seddon, applying for various local public

works. He was well received, and lunched with Mr. Seddon, at th e invitation of th e Superintendent of the W aihi Gold Mining Company. Practically very thing asked for has since been con ced ed by io vern ment- the last being a railway through the

district, which is now under survey. IC99 opened with great heat and rain. T owards

he end of the month we had a visit from our Bishop, now P rimate, on his way to Kati Kati for. confirmation ; and again on his return to Auckland.

On e day in February H ugh and Mervyn dr ove to the Black Hill, an eminence near W aihi, whe re the

Volunt eers were encamped, and dined at mess. Ouite an old-t ime exper ience for H ugh

hey heard that t he W aihi Beach Gold Mine had been sold for £ 35,000. But that report was pr emnure-s-it is not sold yet .

Some of Mervyn's politica l fr iends and admire rs :giln now to call from time to time to talk over

Smgle T ax. and election ma tters, giving him a great int erest in life in New Zealand.

144 MY SIMPLE LI F E IN NEW ZEAL AND. 1899

Towards the middle of Mar ch, whe n I was enj oying a little more rest because of Euphemia's help, that dusky dam sel asked leave to go next day with uncle and aun t ie to the cir cus in Paeroa, twenty miles away : .. I'll finish all my work before I st art and come straight back with th em ." But she did not! She ra ng no eight o' clock bell the next morning (Sunday). H er room had been uno ccupied. So I got breakfast ready, then dinner, th en supper, with visitors for all, including a special friend of Mervyn's, with a requ est to him t o cont est Oh inemuri at th e approaching Genera l Elect ion, Monday, Tuesday, W ednesday passed. On Thursday" auntie" sent for her sewing -mach ine, which she had lent to Euphemia, "becau se she did no t know what had become of her." At the end of a week suspense was at an end, Hugh having walk ed to auntie's and been told that Euphemia was" booked," i.e., th at she had married a French half-caste and wanted her clothes sent to W aihi, where she was settled I H er husband was a miner, worked in the B attery, and, after a few years, died of consumption. Euphemia was not long a widow, an d for second husband had a Scotch fisherman, called Stewart , set t ling in th e neighbourhood of our old T inpot Castle . I missed her good all -rou nd help to my last da y in New Z ea land , never having known a girl with so retentive a memory, or one who coul d pluck chickens as quickly.

Again this year, on April 19th, I had the good fortune to win first pr izes for chrysanthemums and da hlias at .the Kati Kat i Show.

Lucy, a very pretty girl, ca me from Auckland as serv ant, but she knew nothing, and objected t o the .kitchen j so I bro ught her out of it and set to war to teach her, an arduous task when I wa nted to have

MY SIMPLE LI F E I N NEW ZEALAND . I45

th ings parti cularly nice for our Governor , Lord Ranfurly, wh om we expected for lunch very shortly . W hat polishing of silver and glass, mowin g of lawn, weeding of flower-b eds, pluck ing of chickens, maki ng nf butter, rolls, pies and ca kes we had, and how I .njoyed it all! \Ve sent ou t invita t ions t o forty relations and friends, but only th ree of our very nea rest neig hbour s came ; th e rest were too shy ! T he

ovem or ar rived from the U retara , where at the hotel he had th e nigh t before been ente rtained by the settlers at a banquet. H e was accompanied by his Priva te Secretary, an aide -de-camp, R .A., and a

w others. His coach-driver a nd police escort were rovided for in the kitchen . Ou r lunch was a great uccess-e-Co. T yrone and Royal Artillery being our

lin ks. W e st rolled round the grounds, L ord anfurly, the most sympathet ic of Gove rn ors, taking

;LI1 interest in my poultry-farm. Seei ng two lar ge coops, with wire-netti ng runs attached, containing hens, he asked why th ey we re there.

" T o cu re t hem of clu cking. W e call those th e agey Institut es. It 'takes a week of confin em en t

nd go od fceding to effect a cure , th en th ey soon start layi ng agai n." W e ad opt ed th e nam e and idea from th e Ame rican H agey Inst itutes est ab lish ed in Now Z ealan d for the cure of in ebriates. The la t ter was, unfort un at ely, permanently successful in very few cas es. T he Govern or and his suite went on th eir way, much to our regr et, and we felt quite Hat after his depart ure.

ucy magn ified it int o a .grea t ente rtai nment, and published, we were to ld, amo ng her Auck land fr ien ds, that she" had had three out of five -dances with t he G overn or," and there were non e !

Hugh, t hink ing tha t I wo rked too hard in the


garden, bought a Planet Junior wheel-hoe, which helped me most satisfactorily. I was using it with great energy, attired in "simple garden costume" and shady hat one day, feeling hot and untidy, when Hugh appeared with two strange men, whom he introduced to me. I apologised for my appearance. One, a delightfully courteous man, just out from home, raising his hat, with a low bow, said:

"Mrs. Stewart, you are an ornament to your sex! " I returned his salute with a profound curtesy, which cemented our friendship, and led him to the house.

In July Hugh planted twelve Poor Man oranges, hardy, early-bearing, prolific trees, yielding large fruit, some weighing r lb., of fine, ar omatic flavour, excellent for marmalade. There was , in our time, a practically unlimited demand for th em in Auckland at 7s. or 85. a case, about rd. each.

Just as Lucy was gett ing useful she received a wire from home: "Come at a nce-serious illness;" so we sent her in my trap to Wai.hi en route to Auckland, and with all the work, I could do no more of my beloved gardening. We had the expected night or two of frost in ..1 uly, damaging the usual tender plants, always a melancholy sight. Then came soft, warm rain, soothing to them all j also a wire from Lucy, saying, she "may go blind, so can't come back," which made me sorry.

Mervyn was enjoying a visit in Auckland, so I had not his efficient help. Hugh and I took the opportunity of re-papering and painting his bedroom.

Having taken a fancy to have the Brahma strain this season in my poultry-farm, I made an exchange with a girl-friend in Tauranga of fourteen of my prize chrysanthemums for a fine Brahma cock. Then, for another dozen plants I got from the winner of First


P rize for pastry at th e Kati Kati Show, the recipe of how to make it.

On October 9th we entertained Mr. Goldie, Mayor of Auckland, to luncheon.

On r 3th ca me to us the expected news: "War is declared," and we felt we must,all take up arms.

n th e meantime matters nearer home attracted Mervyn's attention and a few days later he gave his first address to the electors of Waihi, with a view to entering Parliament, and met with great encouragement. During the next few weeks he was con stantly mvay giving addresses in all the leading places hroug h th e Ohinemuri electorate. We rec eived his

many friends, who called to report pro gress of his .um paign, during these early summer weeks keeping lrnost open house. Among our visito rs was Mr.

Seddon, -the Premier, who came with two Secretaries III a coach and four and lunched with us. Un fortunately Mervyn was away from home, but the I 're mier knew him and looking round our comfortab le, pretty hom e, he said : "If I had a son with a

snut iful place like this who wished to go in for political life I would cut him off with a shilling." Of

ur se he knew which of the half dozen ca udida tes would be successful on polling-day; December 6th . Lxciternent and suspense were almost too trying,

lervyn beiug in th e thick of the fray and we at henree cut off from it all. Polling day ca me .

If ug h was Returning Officer at Athenree so could not iccompauy me to Waihi, whence a special buggy was ~I1 L for me. I got in by 9 a.m, and was met by

Mervy n in great form. Kind friends of his invited me to th eir house and after lunch introduced me to Mervyn's most influential supporters. I was recognised in the streets as "Stewart's mother," and felt

148 MY SIMPLE LIF E IN NEW ZEALAND. 1899

very proud. I was almost forced into carriages for short driv es, and presently heard gr eat cheering, heralding th e return from Paeroa of "Stewart, Hip, hip, hurrah l" We dined with our hospitable friends; music and singing followed. Then appeared two of Mervyn's Committee with th e disappointing news, "Defeated, Stewart, but not disgraced ." JacksonPalmer was the Successful candidate. So we all dispersed to bed and th e fOllowing morning I returned home by coach with the first news to Hugh. For days aft er I was very ill and Mervyn was in bed with influenza. However, gardening soon revived me. Plum pudding and mincemeat had to be made and the Boer War filled our thoughts. Hugh got the latest telegrams three times a week from the Kati Kati Postmaster. So we heard of Buller's sad reverse, of the death of Lord ROberts' son, and spent a most depressing Christmas. .

190 0 began with hurricanes of wind and clouds of

dust. So dry was th e whole country that when on the 19th some mischievous person threw a lighted match into the fern and tea-tree between our house and the sea, the fire SOOn spread, came roaring t owards us, threatening very soon to destroy everything. Our man had just brought home a load of firewood, so seeing horse and cart in the yard I filled it with plate, jewellery, pictures, and other valuables, and sent it down to a safe valley on the other side. Still the fire came nearer, Hugh and his men trying to beat it out. I took blankets off the beds, made a heap of them in the centre of the la wn, covering them with carpets, rugs and sacks. It WqS impossible to rest idle and see doom approaching, so I visited our several cupboards, took out all the clothes I could carry, and put them with the blankets. My lady-help


was all this time saving her own property, including her saddle and bridle. Mercifully, when our case seemed hopeless the wind changed and we wer e safe. The reaction was very trying, but we put all our valuables, blankets and clothes in their proper places

nee more and returned to the routine of work, with a hideous, scorched-out look from my afternoon rest sofa.

With the news of the relief of Kimberley our spirits rose, and still higher with that of the relief of Ladysmith. We sang" God save the Queen" at our work.

After two months' drought, very prolonged for our district, rain came. We welcomed the first. dropvery gentle to begin with, generally presaging a downpour, which we sniffed at with the greatest gusto.

D ur ing the hot weather I had from the first felt very unfit for hard work; this did not decrease with ad vancing years. Everything seemed a trouble. So dep ressed was I that I made my will a.nd then felt better.

O ne hot Sunday some Waihi friends called on horseback to borrow my trap, a lady of the party being so completely knocked up that she could ride no further. She rested here, they had tea and left ejoicing with all they had asked for. .

After such warm, refreshing rain we had our usual abu ndance of mushrooms, and flowers bloomed everywhere- glor ious masses of chrysanthemums, d ahlias, sunflowers, cosrneas, hydrangeas, cannas and abu til ons,

One Sunday a strange lady appeared at our verandah gate.

"Can you tell me wh ere I could get a cup of t ea.?" C' H ere, with pleasure."

L

ISO MY SIMPLE LIFE IN NEW ZEALAND. 19°0

"I have come from Waihi On my bike and am £0 thirsty. "

So she joined us at dinner and told how she had, only a month before, landed from LondOt} to start a millinery shop in W aihi and, knowing nothing of the country, had determined to explore, not dreaming that in this direction she would travel miles and miles without seeing a house-a contrast to London. She spent the afternoon with us, leaving with a few newlaid eggs for her breakfast; but unfortunately she lost her wayan the roadless plains and found herself, with night advancing, in the limitless bu sh, where luckily she met with one who sh owed her the right way back. Needless to say this poor new chum Soon left Waihi, wh ere her hats did not suit the C olonial taste.

On the following Sunday the opening of the Paris Exposition took place, leading my thoughts back 'with tender reminiscences to the happy childhood days spent there.

So full were our thoughts of Mafeking that nothing else mattered. When au May 19th we heard of the relief, H ug h hoisted th e Union J ack and we sang the Na liona1 Anthem off and on all day, in and out of the house, an d kept it up on the 24th.

Sunday generally brought visitors and extra work, but the climax came on on e at the end of June, when a distant settle r was ca rried to our b ouse, havJng aps ized h is waggon with three or four horses in the

G orge on his ret urn home from Wn ih i aft er d isposing he previous day of his load there. He looked like a ounded Boer with black hair a nd beard, ha ndker

chief bandag ing his forehea d and evidently very much h urt. T hey la id h im on a spa.-e bed. I bathed him a nd' made him as cmnIorta ble as possible. HearIng h is horses h ad been brought into our

19°0 MY SIMPLE LIFE IN NEW ZEALAND. 151

yard, I wrote a note t o his possibly anxious wife (ten miles away) saying what had happened-that he was safe here and would drive home later. Hugh tied this note to the neck of on e horse who would be sure to make for hom e and turned it out of our gat e, thus relieving the sufferer's mind. However, he felt q uit e different when a few hours later Mervyn drove him home and, passing the house of a near neighbour of ours, wa s told that they had stopped the horse, op ened and read the note addressed to the injured man's wife a nd thought it "too unimportant" to tie on again ; a with a flick of a whip they sent the horse gallop

ing on . At 8 o'clock one eveuiug, in the middle of winter,

there was a feeble knock at the back-door, which Hugh answered, a nd found there a young Scot ch fisher ma n in terrible plight, pale, shivering with co ld, a nd wate r pouring off his clothes. Quickly we

rough t him in, Hugh helped to undress him, put him in ' a warm bed, covered with blankets, and ubbed his frozeu limbs. He, too, had had a capsize

In the Gorge. Coming home from selling fish in Waihi and bein g overtaken by darkness his h orse had take n the spring-cart over the edge of this most dangerous road . D own a steep bank ' into the river below went horse, trap, an d mau; the latter escaping

owning almo st by a miracle, as he was en ta ngled in t be harn ess ; luckily the horse kept qu iet , and th e

or man extr icated h imself, clambered up the cliff, and reached our door-a mile or two of a \valk- · nlrnost at Ius last gasp. As soon as possibl e we had collected neighhours within a mile or so, and they rescued horse an d trap. After a couple of day s the poor yonng man was able to get to hi s hom e near Tinpot Castle, but I think hi s health was perman ently

152 MY SIMPLE LIFE IN NEW ZEALAND. IgOO

injured. He went home and met his death as a Quartermaster in a P. and O. steamer, in the Bay of Biscay, having been knocked down in a gale, and his lungs injured by fractured ribs.

Again we had a satisfactory brother and sister to help with the work. In order to encourage them to milk the cows regularly, punctually, and thoroughly, I promised a prize if, at the end of November, they had supplied me with enough cream to make 100 Ills. butter; this they did, and got a hat each. In December the bait was 150lbs., which hooked a white silk scarf for each. Thus I tried to brighten their lives. At the same time Hugh brightened the drawing room by importing from New York two Angle lamps, which burn kerosene, sh ed beautiful light, have no under shadow, no sm ell or heat, and will burn for 22 hours.

On December 8th we gav e one of our usual large picnics to the Beach.

Christmas-day was saddened by the thought of so many relations and friends wounded, sick, or prisoners in South Africa.

I gOI began with an amusing episode. My help had a proposal, which she accepted, from an elderly Nidower with nine ch ildren. He had called a fortnight ·previously to buy fowls from me for his daughter's wedding-breakfast. He, Agnes, and I, helped to catch them in th e yard ; she was very br ight and pretty, so quick and clever at pouncing on the selected birds that our purchaser Was capt ivated, and after a second visit popped the quest ion. I gave her a holiday to indulge in love's young d ream, Her sister came to st ay with her ; they disc ussed matters, th e result being that the poor wid ower was Jil ted . Crest fallen and sad, he tu rned to th e sister for com

Ig01 MY SIMPLE LIFE 1N NEW ZEALAND. 153

fort, but she would have nothing to say to him; he married a widow with as many more children, and the faithless girl accepted a younger admirer.

On 24th we heard of good Queen Victoria's death, and felt sorry.

On 26th we drove to the Court House, Uretara, to vote for rating on the unimproved value of land.

On February znd we all left off work for an hour a t noon to pay the last tribute of respect to Queen

ic tor ia while her funeral was going on. I sat under the shade of trees in a lovely spot on Mervyn's land, reading the Burial Service, and feeling altogether most mournfully depressed. But that had t o be overcome when pleasure-parties, holidaymakers, came pouring in for dinner, tea, flowers, frui t, milk, etc. By the sale of surplus produce of sm all things I made £18 this January, but that did not last every month in the year, alas.

!:arly in F ebruary Mervyn left us for a trip to Auckland, S tratford, Marton, etc.; was away five weeks, and came home stored with knowledge and ' in for mation. Du ring his absence I had another trying experience. A neighbour, one afternoon, brought to our house a , lady-settler wh o had had a carriage accident on her way from W aihi. She felt she was dying , so we sent nine miles for t he doctor, and ge nt ly as possible undressed and put her to bed. One by one came neighbours to enqu ire until the room was filled . To all, the poor sufferer wished " G oodbye," and rnauy tears were shed. E agerly 1 watched for the doctor, who came at last, and I explained to h im the case, led him to t he sick-bed, where we anxiously wa tched him examine the patien t. I n answer to my en qu ir ing looks, he gravely shook his head.

"Is it hopeless?" I asked as he left the room.

154 MY SIMPLE LIFE IN NEW ZEALAND. IgoI

" No," said he, "quite the reverse. Mrs. -- has had a wonderful escape; she is not hurt in the slightestdegree." ,

"What may she eat? " "Anything she fancies, but you had better take

something yourself or you will be my next patient." Then I went to th e sick-bed. "How long can I live?" was the faint question. "For many yea.rs I hope; you have had a merciful

escape from very serious injuries, and must take some food; what would you like? "

" Some bread and milk," whi ch, with most elaborately detailed instructions from her, I prepared. She thoroughly enjoyed it, and went away after a good night's rest.

The wooden blocks au whi ch our house had rested for nearly twenty years were showing signs of decay, the floors of th e rooms rocking as we walked across them, so Hugh engaged a carpenter to put in new blocks, which made things fin n again. The wooden shingle roof wa s no longer watertight, so that had to be replaced with corrugated iron, more serviceable but eminently less picturesque. And oh, the dreadful noise demolishing the old roof and putting up the new one J W e wer e in such a hurry to get th e work finished, having had a line from the Governor asking us to put him np for a night. The old kitchen had just been demolished, bri ck floor taken up, to make room for a larger kitchen with wooden floor . 1 was hoeing and raking the shell-drive, working with all my might and main, when two pretty girls appeared in dainty costumes, carrying tennis shoes and rackets. Who were they ? None other than my quondam help, Lucy, who weaved such a romance abont the Governor's first visit, and her sisier. They

IgoI MY SIMPLE LIFE IN NEW ZEALAND. ISS

had read in the Auckland H erald of our coming guests, and" thought they would like to meet them." So they carne all the way from Auckland, and were dropped at our gate by a passing carrier. I had to explain how inopportune was their visit, because the house was in possession of carpenters, and every room in disorder, How disgusted th ey were. We kept th em for the night, and early next morning they re-

aced their steps to Auckland, sadder, but perhaps wiser girls.

ow busy Agnes and I were removing chips and saw-dust, cleaning windows, fire-places, fenders and fire-irons. She showed signs of collapse, finally gave ill, and three days before the visit, left me. I was in a f x, but help came from her sister, and we got on splendidly with cooking, bed-making, etc. The

over nor arrived on the afternoon of St. Patrick's Day with his private secretary, coachman, and police escort. He was taking a driving tour to get tho roughly acquainted with his dominions, and tried to visit every school on his way, pointing out to the

hildren th e kind of Empire they belong to. He uggested to their teachers that a brief space of time hould be devoted weekly to explaining the meaning

the week's cablegrams of the news allover the world-s-hew it affects the Powers; then asked for

holiday. After tea Hugh took the party [or a wulk, 'We dined at?, and had pleasant talk and sm oke t ill II p. m. The followin g morning some

f ou r nearest neighbours called, and after lunch all departed, leaving us feeling better and happier for t his bit of sunshine. Such re-organising, with counttrig a nd putting away of spare silver followed, that I here was no time for moping!

Bill having got his first tip - [I - from the

157MY SIMPLE LIFE IN NEW ZEALAND.I

nssenger to dri ve. I was amazed at the change en oute. to P aeroa after twelv e years' absence . Life veryw here ; towns with sho ps gal or e. Then the

i .iilroa d, tunn els, cro wds of navvies, etc .-most enou rag ing . Newly met all ed road nearly the wh ole

way, wh ich affecte d me compa ra tively little, as I was wedged in tightly between Dad and a not her man in lu: back sea t, made for two and lengthen ed for

th ree by cushions, whi ch en abled my two panniers or thor ns, whichever you like-to sit on a rail

r.tCh . Near Paeroa th e road was goo d. W e passed I rowds coming from a fun eral, W e went by train .in to T hames, put up at an hot el, rather decayed.

ter di nner we t ook a wa lk. I was st ruc k with the 1III e wid e st reets , pavements, and ga s-lights; wished I I ley could be transferred bodily to W aih i. V'l e had I d reary bedroom in a cottage adjoi ning th e hot el,

our next neig hbo ur being a ti psy innkeeper who lked loud all night in his sleep, or else sno red

luuder st ill ! He awoke me a dozen ti mes. I re-li ned snatches of sleep only by counting his snores !

\\ " bad a good breakfast in a fine room . The hotel \\ 1$ crowded. 170 peo ple fed there the previous hi}'. On ly one wa itress an d one housemaid- girls 01 fi fteen or sixteen, who looked lame with fat igue.

sve one of them a sh illin g, and she wants to 1J1l1c to me ! 55. Wt7Rltie1'e very full; 5S. return , l over t he boat. W e were a long ti me gett ing off

d so at IO. 30 . T he day was sunless and cold, ith dri as ling rain at intervals all the way. Man y ere sea -s ick. I was not, but did not face din ner. rd d id, I need hardly tell yo u. Auckla nd Harbour,

ter four ho urs, was very grey, misty, and chee rless, xcept for a beau tiful pr ocessional line of five dear

n-o'< war in read iness for T uesday. T hey re

t for Auckland, of the account from my

MY SIMPLE LIFE I N NEW ZEALAND.I56

Igor

G overnor, grew qui te up-lift ed, gave H ugh a week's notice, an d persuad ed his sis te r to do the same.

Ha ving heard from the Govern or th at their R oyal Highnesses Duke and Du ch ess of Cornwall and York were coming to Auckla n d in June, and that we should be inv ited t o th eir recepti on, I sent black velvet, sa tin, point la ce, et c., to Milne & Choyc e, who turned out costumes worthy of the oc cas ion.

On May zoth came our mu ch -prized invitati ons, whi ch produ ced a delightful simmer of excit em ent, but not grea ter th an did the arrival by coach, fresh from home, of a mos t charming couple-No and M. She was one of th e pre t tiest Wom en I had ever seen, and fascinated us all with her delightful w ay s an d lovely gowns. Later on, wh en th ey were guests at Gov ernment H ouse, Victori a, during th e royal visit, M. was alluded to in the papers as <t th e most b eau tiful woman in Melbourn e." Their engagements were so numero us that a t the end of a sh ort week we mu st needs part with them, but met them again in Auck la nd.

In hon our of the ship th at was conveying t he oyal pair to Auckland, H ugh m ade an ar tist ic pretty

additi on, which he called" th e Op hir," to my bedr oom.

n Friday , 7th Jun e, we which memorable trip I give letters at th e time ;_

Parnell-Auckland,

JU1le l UI, I 9 0I.

"DEAR MERVYN,-Here we are a fte r a mos t uncom forta ble j ourney. At Waihi P ost Offi ce We found the out-goin g coach crammed , so went to Pilling's Hotel, where we had tea. Then a pa ir-ho rse buggy turned up for us-e-six people a nd luggage, one

I58 MY SIMPLE LIFE IN NEW ZEALAND. IgOI

minded me so of Portsmouth that I knew not whether to laugh or to cry. George M. met us at half-past two, shouldered my trunk, Dad his bag, and took us to a very nice pair-horse cab. He had had such a job to secure one early in the day, all being engaged for the races-£'3 for the day. We drove by back streets to Parnell on acconnt of the crowds in Queen Street. This house and garden are charming. Our kind hosts have given us their fine bedroom, with bath-room adjoining. The Duke and Duchess will not be better treated. Dad went out shopping. I did not, because it was raining steadily. E. has a lovely black brocaded satin for the royal reception. My gowns are here, and lo ok all right. You know we are all in Court mourning?

"June 70tll.-I posted to you, en route to St. Mary's -such a nice church. Canon McMurray's text was from N urn bers xxiii, 21: .' The shout of a king is among them." He made the most of his opportunity. All the time I am thinking of you in charge at Athenree. We had such a lovely surprise visit at 7.30 p.m. from N. and 1'1., who are staying at tl .e Star H otel, having gotJired of Rot oru a in such wet weather. T hey leave, alas! to-day for W ellington, there to join in the royal fes tivities, M. having no gowns in Auckla nd . T h ey lunched a t G overnment H ouse. Mr. Seddon inquired for us. M ISS Seddon is charming, M. says, and is sending us tickets for the review and presentation of medals to the officers and men of the So uth African contingents, also for the Maori demonstration a t R otorua. We were also told that H.M.S . Pmguln is going reg ularly to T auranga from Fridays to Mondays, and that the officers want to come to Athenree in ' their launch, so you must call.

IgoI MY SIMPLE LIFE IN NEW ZEALAND. 159

"jlt'ne l lth, 7907.-We awoke yesterday to pouring rain, which lasted the whole day. Having gone 'n by 'bus we found the town crowded, lively, and .i uddy. We called on N. and M. at the Star, and

ran with them to Prince's Street to see the rehearsal of the procession to Government House. The G overnor's coachman, who had been at Athenree, was driving the royal carriage . . Our khaki boys looked really noble-so serious, too, as their horses were rather jumpy with the band. We saw N. and M. off from Onehunga to Wellington. Now the 'PMr can be seen quite close, dripping wet, not even

,I patch of blue sky, but one felt very loyal and in ou ch . Indignation is rife, because Seddon yesterday

morning forbad railway-trucks bringing Maori noes when too late for any other mode of con

veyan ce, so there is no nice aquatic display. Dad .md I dined at an hotel; the landlord and his wife were going to the Citizens' Reception, their married lau ghters to Government House. We called at

ernment Honse, being stopped at th e gates by nrry and policeman-' No admission. t 'But we

nrc fri ends of His Excellency, who tol d ns to ca ll whe n he was at Athenree.' , I must beg your pardon, '

oJld th e bobby, (1 oug ht to have recognised Captain .uid Mrs. Stewart, as I come from W aihi, ' an

wed us on , sentry s rniling affably. At Go vern ment iuse a good -looking yo ung Ne w Z eala nd gunn

ok our cards, read them and beamed at the ",'lords ' la te Royal Ar tillery .' r His E xcellency a nd Lady Ranfurly n ot a t .horn e ; t he Duke and Duchess are xpected immediately '- a day before they were due. o th ere was great exc itement , W e called next n

the P ublic Li brary and Ar t Gallery and were show ver h is k ingd om by Mr. S . What a beautiful col

160 MY SIMPLE LIFE IN NEW ZEALAND. Ig01 or MY SIMPLE LIFE IN NEW ZEALAND. r6r

lection of Sir George Grey's curios, etc. Great preparations for the' Citizens' , At Home, gas being laid on and decorations put up. The prettiest arch is here, all ferris and arums. The others strike me as paltry-too squat, altogether patchy, but in pouring rain what would look more like wet hens? I am loyal and elated to a degree at sight of the Ophir within handkerchief-waving distance from my window.

"JunrJ tzu; 1901. We awoke yesterday to lovely sunshine. The great day has gone and I am glad I was here. My bouquet of white flowers, quite a dream, from Pilkington's came early. Then I went to McIndoe's nursery and got a bouquet for our hostess. Later we went to our friend F. M.'s warehouse in Queen Street. A long wait, frequent showers, not very amusing, Presently H.E. appeared on his way to the landing-place, being the signal for loud and prolonged cheers. But the whole thing was too solemn and quiet. There were at least six bands, scarcely any played; at last came distant strains of • God save the King,' and their Royal Highnesses drove past. ' 1ust like their photos,' remarked someone close by in a disappointed tone. Firing guns had brought down a thicker drizzle. The Duke wore a mackintosh and the Duchess was partly hidden under an umbrella. Only a pair of horses in their carriage, therefore many did not recognise the Royal pair, whom they had perhaps expected would wear crowns.

"At 9 p.m. we drove to Government House. Our hostess looked charming, and Dad said I was 'all right.' We had a long delay in the carriage-line. Our first greeting ' was from the pleasan t P riv Secretary, who had been twice at Athenree. In t he

ll-room, converted into reception-room, we met lT1 :tny friends. 'God save the King' heralded Rtrya lty. A line was cleared in the centre of the I IJO m for the procession, intensely military and

leasing. Prince of Teck, quite the finest-looking nan ; Lady Ranfurly, the most beautiful woman.

( rnly their Royal Highnesses and T.E. stood on the da is. We all filed past, Captain Hill Trevor, A.D.C., , 1I ling out each name very loudly and plainly. The naj ority nodded to their Royal Highnesses, who

ook hands with all. Some seemed too nervous to I d ell out a hand. I took time to curtsey low to

h in turn and met their eyes. T.E. were mp letely overlooked, or rather they effaced themlves, but I could not, resist making a slight halt, luch, with a low bow, was pleasantly acknowledged. I ter the presentations there were about six musical -ms from the best professionals, but all very dreary

I, ' I ause of the etiquette of no applause in the I" se uce of Royalty. Then all (Mr. Seddon, Sir J. vrrd, etc., included) solemnly walked out again, II time to supper in one room, we in another. A

1111,:;l excellent supper-plenty of champagne" oysters, II licious cold savouries, which were shamefully ',1sted, as at Athenree-not appreciated by Colonials

ierally, Dad carved a fine turkey, and was much ".11 ronised. He spoke to some R. N. officers, evidently If ,mgers ; asked for those belonging to H.M.S.

I )wgltb~ , the Commander, a lieutenant and their wives , being introduced to us and invited to Athenree. \Ve. got home a little before one o'clock.

.. June 13th, 1901. I am so delighted to get your le tter but feel very selfish to be enjoying myself so much when you write; • No news. How could there H here ? ' Yesterday at 9 a.m , we drove to Potter's

162 MY SIMPLE LIFE IN NEW ZEALAND. Ig01

Paddock, took our seats in the Grand Stand for the Review, and saw everything splendidly. As Soon as Seddon appeared a cheer was started, but unfortunately mingled with groans and hoots'Canoooooooe.' The Mayor, Sir John Campbell, a fine old gentleman, was tremendously cheered-he returned low bows all round. The troops were really wonderful, especially the school-cadets. The Duchess arrived. with T.E., and for about an hour in a pavilion close by they sat waiting for the Duke, who appeared at last in General's uniform on a lovely charger and with splendid escort, who rode round the lines for inspection. Then followed the march past, the tiny cadets perfect little pictures, far more important than their seniors. Royal Marine Artillery and Royal Marine Light Infantry too smart for words, also the man-o'-war's men, to the gay tunes of' A Life on the Ocean Wave' and' Soldiers in the Park.' The trotting of New Zealand troopers came to an end in front of the Grand Stand. Their horses went nearly mad with bands and cheers as they approached the Duke, but I saw no spills. Next came the presentation of war medals, beginning with Major Madocks, R.A., then Captains Hughes and Tad, D.S.O., these being specially presented to and congratulated by the Duke. We had a long wait by block ed traffic to get away; th en after lunch we waited outside this house and saw their Royal Highnesses drive by so close and so slowly that we could have shaken hands again. They went on to lay the foundation stone of the Victoria School for Maori girls, many of them being gathered there and delighting the Duchess with their "ongs and acting; so much so that she encored th e performance. au coming out there wer e such crowds of bowing

19°1 MY SIMPLE LIFE IN NEW ZEALAND. 163

people that the Duke kept his hat off. He is quite rs bald as you. They went to Bishopscourt for tea. W hen we met the Primate he told us that he would

rtainly have invited us to meet them had he known we were in Auckland. 'Would not that have been a I rea t ? because, as you know, I had been presented to her mother, the Duchess of Teck, who was accornpanied by th e then tinylittle Princess May. All this fun will live in my memory for ever. Dad is more tired of it than I am.

" [wne 14th, 1901. Yesterday, after a howling gale II night, the day was not much better, with the

uldit ion of incessant pouring rain. Therefore we Iecided not to go to the Maori Sports at Rotorua and (lent th e day paying visits (our last to dear Mrs.

wie, who had become quite an invalid. Both she lid the good Primate have since passed away)."

So end my letters to Mervyn. Our only other citernent was a pleasant lunch on board H.M.S.

uin ; After nine days, our longest absence together from rhe nree, we got home by SS. T¥aimarie, t en hours , Paeroa : thence coach to Waihi for 'early dinner,

mel 50 home, finding all well. 1\ day or two after Mervyn rode many miles (ten

r twelve) to attend the first meeting of the Butter I uctory, started by his energy, perseverance, and pr.ictical hints gained while touring further South. lriis factory has proved a great success and has i ved many settlers from bankruptcy.

ur Vicar now came regularly once a fortnight t o nd uet at 3 p.m. Evening Service in No. I School,

I,iur miles distant from either of us, in opposite lirections, Mervyn assisted by reading the lessons.

expectedly one day came Lieutenant Nares,

164 MY SIMPLE LIFE IN NEW ZEALAND. IgoI

R.N., H.M.S. Pengltin, and two blnejackets, to put a flag on Mt. Hikurangi, the scene of my two ascents. I did not attempt another, but Mervyn joyfully accompanied them. They spent two or three days at Athenree, all so pleasant and delighted with the "lovely :::ountry-place "-so much so that one of the officers' wives came next with a girl-friend. Although it was wet and cold, real winter weather, they made the best of it. Bnt no one from Royalty downwards should come to New Zealand in winter. The cold makes itself as much felt as at home in the way of sore throats, rheumatism, &c., and the houses are not so warm or comfortable-roads are seas of mud and rain comes down in absolute torrents. In Summer the contrast is striking, and one lives in the open air, but it can rain then too, although at Athenree as soon as the rain stopped the ground was apparently dry,so light was the soil.

One day, when my help was in bed with a cold, came two fine young tramps asking for" tucker " and work. Having been fortified with the former, H ug-h told them to cut down a big pinus insignis that was shutting out our sea-view. It was soon evident that neither of them could use an axe. Mervyn went out to encourage them. Looking seaward, he said, " That's the Peng~t£n coming in." A change fell over their faces. "This work don't suit us, sir," and off they went as quickly as possible. Could they have been deserters?

In July work for me was plentiful and interesting. Early potato planting, orange marmalade making, packing lemons for sale, also butter and eggs, rearing little chicks and ducks in foster-mothers, giving abundance of regular feed to laying hens and ducks, plucking a pair frequently for the table, and a hun

rqor MY SIMPLE LIFE IN NEW ZEALAND. r65

d red other occupations-too many, too much as a matter of course, to enumerate. And how time did fly. The days were never half long enough until 10

o'clock came and then the luxury of well-earned rest. But our bed had grown hard, therefore one fine, bright

y we carried the hair-mattress on to the lawn, spread ut sheets, unpicked the ticking cover and teazed out

the hair, all hands being employed at the job, so .that before night we had made a most complete success of it!

aving one or two bedroom windows with unattractive views, Hugh sentto Auckland for: glacier decorations, which we applied with the greatest ease according to directions, and liked very much.

'uphemia called to announce her approaching cond marriage, in honour of which I gave her two

illowsfilled with my poultry feathers. My devotion to gardening led me into overwork, so

for fear of being laid up altogether I had to rest more m the afternoons, which was a great trial for me. Hut I am fond of needlework and made all the lnn nel, flannelette, white shirts, pyjamas, &c., that

1 1 1I~h and Mervyn wore, besides most of our outer ~llrments . Then, as spring and summer advanced, I had freqnent long-distance visitors for afternoon tea

nd sometimes a bed. The bachelors of Waihi having invited us to a

ball, we three went in by coach, put up at Flett's Iotel, and from g p.rn. to 2.30 a.m. were very gay,

return ing home next day by noon . Sunday was not a day of rest. J put a lot of chicks

nd ducks into a second foster-mother, lit the lamp, whic h heated and set the house on fire. Mervyn

l1y put it out, wit h the loss of two chicks only, Lit it was exciting.

M

r66 MY SIMPLE LIFE IN NEW ZEALAND. Ig01

Hugh was busy early in October picking and packing Poor Man oranges for the Auckland Market. Towards the end of this month we always left off drawing-room fires, having begun th em in April. For-twenty-five years I made a note in my diary of (I First and Last Fire," with scarcely a week's variation in the date.

Mervyn was all this time working with mig-ht and main to get the Butter Factory well under way. Unluckily we lived too far away to derive any benefit from it and to the end made our own bu tter, which necessitated, as I have already said, getting up very early on a hot summer's morning. But we had a large cool dairy and I never had oily butter like many less fortunate women.

My good help having left me to be married, I was again single-handed for about a month; then came Annie, a good worker. All hands took up the big drawing-room carpet, chimney was swept, aud the annual spring. cleaning took place, with hanging of summer drapes and curtains. So busy and interested was I that in the end I collapsed, but not until the work was done!

Nex t day we had another little visit from Lieu tenant Nares and two bluejackets, H. Nl. S . Penguin, for smvey work. .

ne afternoon a neighbour called for medicine, having been drin king water out of a nearly empty ta nk in wh ich was a decomposed rat!

F or th ree weeks 'lp to Decem ber oth we had had no rain. T he groun d was dry as dust, so we were very thankful when we heard t he rain-drops.

My chrysant hemu ms were very much affected by black fly. I sprayed them with fir-tree oil, soapsuds.. kerosene, all sorts of in secticides, but many Were

cs troyed,

Ig02 MY SIMPLE LIFE IN NEW ZEALAND. 167

Sickness with old age was increasing in the Settlement. Many of us longed for occasional medical advice. Therefore G.V.S. was made welcome when he introduced a "doctor from home anxious to settle among us." He was old, shaky and red-nosed, and did not stop!

On Christmas Eve we had a visit from a prosperous ouple, the wife being second daughter of J 0 and

Sara, who had come out in the Lady JOCelY1~ with us i she had been twice married, which seemed incredible until we realised that we had been twenty-three ears in New Zealand.

I902 began with our invasions of visitors, and met irnes profitable sales of garden and dairy pro

d uce. On January 6th the official ceremony of opening- the Kati Kati Dairy Association Factory look place.

One day, riding- to Waihi, Annie was thrown from her horse and so much hurt that she could not come buck, A child-friend came in her place, who was so dru id of the dark that I had to put her to bed, but Il ly for two nights. On the third she told me not

to l ro uble, that she was no longer frightened. She lived to bless me for having sympathised and then II. .isoned with her. But she was not strong enough .. I th e work, so nex t came I rene from Auckland, .rrrving in floods of tears. She was clean and tidy, u t oh ! so lachrymose. Early on t he third day she

'w e me three months' notice, that being the time r which she was boun d to me at IOS. a week under

pt.na lty of forfeiting her journey-money, 25s. ; but in I he evening she reduced the notice to one month, obbing : II I can't stand this miserable place." Alas, oor me, to have been thus taken in. The girl had

been sent to me as a punishment to break off an undesirable engagement.

169 168 MY SIMPLE LI F E IN N EW ZEALA ND . 190 2

In the midst of my worry we had delightful visitor s-Madame Spontini and her husband. She was a clever clairvoyant and palmist. Moreover, she was possessed of a most sympahetic nature and _comforted me often. She helped me at all ·my work, even butter-making. I tried to cheer unhappy Irene, iustructing her in everything th at m ight be of use to her, but all of no ava il; she was t he " lady, " I was th e " help." F eelin g ill and sad a lmost to tears I chee red up on receiving from Gibbous, W ellin gt on , a parcel of lovely bulbs-anemo nes of sorts, bobartia anrantiaca, brodicea coccinea, Jap an ese iri ses, ranunculi of sorts, Schizostylis coccinea and trichonerna purpurescens- and indulged in the joy of planting th em.. .

March I7th was a gay, busy day. In honour of Mervyn 's birthday We entertained th e Kati Kati band, th eir wives and sweethea rts . The fun was at its height when our Pe11.g1tin fri ends appeared for survey work, aud we put th em up. The blu e jackets before and afte r work were most useful, ac tu ally scmbb ing the kitchen floor, apparently delighted . Certainly I was, as th ey did it so well. Iren e was quite cap tiva ted with them and in a few days left [or Auckland. She was replaced in a week by Jessie,

fight and goo d-na tured, but a terribl e muddler. She was mu sical and her singing ch arme d all a t our Sunday even ing services, t o whi ch she usually biked, while Mervyn drove me, Hngh bein g left a t hom e on guard because of our num erous Sunday callers from distances.

ugh, Mervyn and I had received invitations to a . ball at Government H ouse. W e could not all leave

home, so after Our R oyal visit, t his was Mervyn's turn. H e went. The ball took pla ce on Apri l 15th.

MY SIMP LE LIFE IN NEW ZEALAND.190 2

e enjoyed -it immensely and was most kindly received. H e had t o come back qui ckly for his weekly visit as a direct or t o the Butter Factory. W hen he drove in stead of riding, he alw ays took from me to the manager and his wife a present of fl owers, fruit and vegetables.

On e Saturday I had t o go to the Court House to vote for G.V.s. on the R oad Board, and he was elected. About this time Hugh was employing as fnrm-hand, Bill, a young fellow that he liked. They workcd together clearing tea -tree in a paddock near home, which enco uraged me to carry afternoon tea to them, and they a pprec iate d it. The weather was very cold a nd we burnt a lot of wood. Trees were over-crowded and need ed cutting down, so we en-

aged two Maori lads to fell and convert one into 8-inch length firewood for 16s. and dinner. Next

they want ed break fast; then an in crease of 7s. They iLall for three days' work. Thus we did not get

ur lirewood for nothing ; but I had plenty for cookIll!,; when, 0 11 May 3 0 t h , I had an ext ra am ount to do, hilv;ng to fill a big lun ch-basket th e following day

r Kat i Kati and W aihi offic ials, esco rted by Mervyn , .no rary Clerk Kati Kat i R oad B oard, who visit ed

he Recreation Reserve at the H ead s to disc uss and make pla ns for improvements. These were made and form a very popular sum mer-camp for the mining'

pulaLion . ne day in J une Hugh went for a walk round the

arm to count new lambs, wh en to his horror he fuu nd a fine ewe lying dead, th en anot he r, then

nother ; at last abou t thirty in all in several field s, j nnlly coming on two dogs lyin g asleep go rged with blo od and mutton . J-Ie ran up to th e house for his gun, shot the tw o dogs and sent for the Constable.

190 2 MY SIMPLE LIFE IN NEW ZEALAND. 171170 MY SIMPLE LIFE IN NEW ZEALAND. 190 2

Then followed days of misery-a nightmare to me of Maoris, policem en, lawyers, decomposing sheep, winding up with an Arbitration Court in one of our sheds, when it was decid ed that the Maori owner of the dogs should pay Hugh 7s. 3d. ea ch for 30 ewes, not IS. of which he ever re ceiv ed. Onr spirits went down to near zero wh en, following on these horrors, came the sad news of our King's serious illness and postponement of his Coronation. W e could only sorrowfully whisper" God sav e the King."

On July 6th, at our sch ool afternoon service, Violet Adela Mari e Ma cmillan, t o whom I stood god mother, was christened.

F or th e first three weeks of July we had no rain, but clear, bright, sunny days, with more or less frost every night, so that th e usual tender plants were blackened. However, it was perfect weather for sowing seeds and weediug. A neighbour's water-cask was empty becau se of the d rou ght, so a refractory pig was put in it, but had to be ha stily provided with other quarters wh en pour ing rain came down the spout and threatened to drown the pig.

Our for tnig ht ly C hurc h services bein g now firmly established, with a congregatio n varying frOID IS to 30 , the idea occurr ed to me that musi c would be very des irable for th e old, to remind them of th e dear hom eland, and for the young to lea rn the tunes. T herefore I wrote ma ny letters to this effec t to relations and fr iends a ll over th e world, begging for a few toys and nicknacks to form the nucleus of a sale to raise funds for th e purchase of 8. harmonium. Next I inv est ed in m uslins and prin ts, cut out and made so many blouses, apro ns, chil dr en's frocks, etc., that a part of my cup board-room was soon filled and looked like a shop. It was on August 6th that I

wrote my first begging letter and on December 7th the bazaar took place. That, August 6th, wa s su ch an exciting day that little work was done-caronati on-day we hoped, so we decked the house with flags, and all except Hugh and me went very early to the U retara for a loyal gathering and demonstration, which they enjoyed immensely.

Some special friends in Waihi having sent us invitations for a dance in their lovely house on 15th, Mervyn drove m e there in my little trap over a very dry but very rough road, mercifully by daylight. W e dined and dressed a t Flett's Hotel and went to the

ance of about fifty; a great success, with most excellen t supper, winding up with hot soup. This w as very acceptable before starting at 2 a.m. on our two hours' drive home on a bright moonlight, frosty night . I felt rather sleepy making up arrears during the d ay. A few days later Mervyn had the sad task of a ttend ing the funeral of a friend who had died of pn eumonia. I sent a lovely wreath of tagosaste, wh ite camellias, daphne, di osma, violets and ferns.

T owards the end of August both Hugh and Mer">'n were called away for the day as witnesses in a law-case ; so for the first time I was left in charge of th e P ost Office aud felt quite important l The civil r.oach -d river gave me every assistance in receiving nnd dispa tching the mail-bags, and I felt quite experienced the foll owing day when the Postmaster and his sworn Assistant had not returued ! So one way and a not her I had a very busy time and got frequently kn oc ked up.

A member of our church congregation, a fine old man and nearly blind, but able to ride great di srane es, called one morning to offer his help in raising mon ey for the harmonium. I gave him a Subscrip

172 MY S I MP LE LI F E I N I\'EW ZE AL A.ND. 190 2

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190 2 MY SIMPLE LIFE IN NEW ZEALAND. 173

fresh ed, they departed. For several days after we had similar enquiries from other firms, but our supplies were not equal to the demand.

On November 13th Mervyn left us to attend the Auckland Diocesan Synod. During his ten days' absence Hugh and I busied ourselves papering his office and th e staircase leading to it, which was a pleasant surprise when he returned to us-very breezy and fresh.

Early in December bazaar work began in earnest. Cake and bonbon-making. Putting up 150 "Post Office" parcels. Extra window-cleaning. Decorating drawing and dining-rooms. Then visitors arrived to help, one very artistic young girl-friend from

uckland displaying the bazaar goods most tastefully on all the stalls. W ednesday roth was luckily fine. The Kati Kati baud played under the trees, with th e promise from me of £1 for every £10 I might make. Result, £4 for them, my gross total 1 ,,~ i Ilg £41 9s., £ 8 of which my blind friend had collected ; and all were pleased with their money's worth.

Next day Mervyn and I made an inventory of things left-s-about £13 worth. Then came another and an other parcel of contributions from home; therefore we d ecided, to have a supplementary sale, which was held on the same lines on April r jth and reali sed

2.

At Christmas-time a lady-neighbour of ours a mile iway gave a very successful dance, to which we all went, and I was able to take a share in playing dancemusic. But I was of more practical use when a few days aft er, hearing this same lady was very, very ill, I went to see her and did what I could to relieve her s ufferings.


On Christmas-day we had a cold dinner in the verandah, the heat being too great in the house. We had cold ducks, chickens and ham, six vegetables, plum-pudding with whipped cream and mince-piesall home-made and mainly farm-produce.

190 3 opened with heat and drought-grand harvest weather. Our oats and wheat were very good j but there was a great deal of rain before they were stacked and thatched. On January rath "Viator," of the New Zealand Herald, paid us a visit and described Athenree as follows :_

"Six miles from Kati Kati, and ten from Waihi, on the branch road to Waihi Beach, so much frequented by families in holiday-time camping for health, is the Athenree Post Office on Captain H. Stewart's property (brother of Mr. G. V. Stewart). It was by no means the best land for settlement, though now the choicest and most attractive feature of the district, and an object lesson for anyone to visit. All are welcome to see what has been and can be done in t wentythree years under difficulties and drawbacks few would tackle. Plantation has grown into forest that conceals the improvements and actual work do ne. Surrounded by a plantation of choice trees--oak, elm, beech, birch and plane-in variety, grow crowded gum, macrocarpa, and elaeagnus together, vying with a magnolia and cloth of gold rose in embrace for supremacy and ornamentation of the hous e that is the entire work of the owner, and was found on more than one occasion large enough to house and entertain Lord Ranfurly and suite, with coachman and escort of two policemen, a pressman and Mayor; and yet to look at tbe quaint and original structure one says: 'Where were they all stowed away? I Captain Stewart is a carpen ter, made by himself, and works

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buyers from Kati Kati and Waihi. Late in the afternoon all that was left :was sold by aucticn, which relieved me of the goods, also of about £ro which I lost by this transaction. Still, I made £22, and was so completely knocked up that I was glad it was over.

On May 17th a kind neighbon- called, asking me to drive with her to Waihi to see the opening ceremony of the Waihi Hospital. We lunched at P ower's Hotel, and walk ed to the Main Street, where we saw the Premier, Mr. Seddon, drive up, and having bowed to him walked to the Hospital grounds (about half-amile), an d were Soon followed by the Premier, the Mayor, Volunteers, Fire Brigade, Cadets, several bands and other organisations, to say nothing of thousands of spectators-an orderly, but undemonstrative crowd. A hymn was sun g, followed by prayer. The Right Hon, R. ]. Seddon, P.C., LL.D., Premier of New Zealand, gave an eloquent address and opened the hospital to the strains of "Goq Save the King." Presentation of Certificates of S1. John's Ambulance Association to ten ladies and gentlemen took place, and after more addresses, music, and doxology, the crowd dispersed. Truly a wonderful sight for us who remembered that desolate spot not so many years ago, where the natives were still hostile. Gold had done it all. A day or two later, when I had just made 20 lbs, butter, and was going out to feed the fowls, Hugh handed me a large envelope enclosing the following; " T he Governor and Countess of Ranfurly request th e honour of Captain, Mrs. and Mr. Stewart's company at a Ball on Tuesday, April 15th, 9.30 p.m. Government House, Auckland. An answer is requested addressed to 'the Aide de Camp in waiting.'" I wrote, accepting with pleasure the kind invitation,

180 MY SIMPLE LIFE IN NEW ZEALAND. 1:903

stationer a hundred collecting cards, of which the Governor approved so well that he ordered a second hundred for himself and paid for all. I posted mine with a few lines to every man, woman or child I knew all over the world, and before the end of the year had collected over £80. Each card and amount I, of course, acknowledged; moreover, I let every collector know the total amount. Thus I wrote over 300 letters on the subject, and received many from the Governor and his son, Lord Northland, A.D.C., with warm thanks. Also for all my friends all over the world a prettily got up souvenir, with portraits of their Excellencies and Lord Northland, as well as views of the Home exterior and interior.

The night after the ball we saw the popular Australian actress, Nellie Stewart, in "The Country Mouse,' in H. M. Theatre.

Our days were spent in shopping and paying visits. Within the week we were home again, having passed a night in Waihi, and been present at the Rollerskating Carnival in the Academy of Music, a fine hall, capable of accommoda ting 1,500 people. Before leaving Waihi on June 13th, Lord Northland's twenty-first birthday, I wired to him: "M;any happy returns of the day." We found Mervyn and Harry had prepared for us a: good dinner of boiled beef with potatoes and carrots, and a rice'pudding.

Cream had accumulated, so I had to make butter at once, I7lbs. Then we heard that the organ had arrived from Montgomery Ward, Chicago, and went to the school to receive it, the local storekeeper having most obligingly sent it without charge and with a strong man, who, helped by Hugh and Mervyn, got it into position. Then came the unpacking, and a very beautiful instrument revealed

1:903 MY SIMPLE LIFE IN NEW ZEALAND. I8I

itself, in appearance being like an upright grand piano with very handsome case. But it was new to us all-had no stops; only knee and foot action. The instructions were so full that Jessie and I soon learned to play it. We drove over together for practice on Fridays after school-hours, and made the scholars sing the hymns intended for Sunday service. Thus they soon got familiar with the tunes, and a fortnight later we had a bright musical service, with a congregation of forty-seven, the elders among whom were much moved by reminiscences of the

ea r homeland. On the previous Friday a young Scotsman, herbalist and preacher, had walked in 'rom Waihi so tired that we put him up for the night. Next morning he was so ill with asthma that be stayed in bed, and remained there all Sunday, ind needed a great deal of attention. On Monday 1C got alift home with a friendly carter.

On August rst Mervyn drove me to Waihi over a very, very rough road, but in perfectly lovely weather, to pay, by invitation from the Secretary, a

rt of semi-official visit to the Hospital, where we re received by him and the Matron, who showed

l I S al l round the nice, pretty, convenient buildings, well-furn ished, bright and clean. I had paid £5 for

II "Athenree " bed, but never had the pleasure of seeing it allocated. At this time there were fifteen

itients in the Hospital, proving how necessary such nn instit ution had been. We were destined never to

upy a bed in it, but from its earliest days Hugh and Mervyn paid each £1 a year, which would have

nLitJed us to board and lodging for an indefinite period had necessity arisen. Mervyn worked hard to e t subscribers in 'our settlement. Many of those

who joined had reason to bless him for his importunity N

I l)2 MY SIMPLE LIFE IN NE W ZEAI.AN~ . '3

hen accident or sickness occurred; while others lived to reg ret the ir noncompliance and consequcn xpenses, After lunch T met by appointment in the

W a ihi Hall t wenty of my young coll ectors for the New Z ealand Veterans' Home and tried to inspire h em with ent husiasm! Next day I resumed the

daily routin e of work, recreation ta king the form of , planting a dozen new roses fro m H ay, Auckland.

T he most imperat ive work in Augu st was th e hatching, feeding, and rearing of tiny chicks ~

ucks, which needed attention at intervals of abo u two hours from dawn LO da rk, frequentl y in torrents of rain.

arly in Septem ber T wrote [arty-two ge tIe reminders to backward collecto rs for Veterans' I orne, having received so many well-filled cards tha I was a ble to send Lord Northland [30'

bout this ume Dr. Ma kgill, Heal th Officer, spent a day with us. We had expected hi m on an official visit, and I had pictured him old and severe! It w••~

a very agreeable surprise to find him quite th . reverse ; and to me refreshing ly military a fter his share III the South African war. We begged "~ome again, It but prornonon to Wcllinztcn

" good-bye II for us. ing had notice that the BIshop was conun

for confirmation I started a httle drawing-roo a t Arhenree to teach the young neighbours Catechism, etc .

For some lit tle time 1 had had ;l3

eeling quite ill, wh en b~ coach, from a registry otnce In Auckland, came Polly Harris at 128. <I week. 1

went out to meet her. ave you had a pleasant drive ~ "

.. We've been a bit shook oop." ,

183MY SIMPLE LIFE IN NEW ZEALAND.1903

"You are not a Colonial? " " No; on'y landed one week from Lanc'shire." " Have you ever been in service before? " ' "No, I'm a cotton-spinner; my husband is an

iron-worker; he's cum to New Zealand for shootin', fishin', and football."

"Where is he now?" "Looking for a job. I took the first that cum."

Poor Polly was simply in despair when she saw the open wood-fire and Colonial oven, also ' kerosene lamps. She said she had never lit a fire or trimmed

lamp in her life, had always lived at Bury, with gaslight and cooker, and began to cry sadly. I felt so sorry for her, remembering my early home-sickness, a nd did all the work for a few days, begging her at least to watch me. But she grew more and more lep ressed, until a happy thought occurred to me. .. W ill you 'make a cake? " Then she smiled at last,

nd with hands in flour (she was very clean) was ransformed into a busy, bustling little woman, only

ba rgaining that I should keep up the fire and attend 10 the baking, "because I can't remember to put on wood ! " She made excellent scones, currant buns, .ind Simmel cake. I taught her to pluck a fowl-her ' Irst experience. " We always buys them ready to .ook at 'orne." Polly was so much happier now that I was able on Sunday, November 8th, to leave her 'or the day. We drove to Kati Kati Church, which was well filled, for in addition to a larger and more interested congregation than usuaUhere were eighty Fauranga and WaihiVolunteers, who had marched into camp the previous day to hold a rifle meeting on the King's birthday. In the afternoon there was ., Ceremonial Parade, mounted, Review Order," after wh ich we drove home. On Monday the Waihi

184 MY SIMPLE LlFE IN NEW ZEALAND. I903

Volunteers won the cup for shooting, and called in at Athenree to tell us of their victory, getting all the flowers they wanted, also hop-beer and milk.

With scarcity of help and abundance of work at this season-planting potatoes,. maize, pumpkins, etc.-I gave my help at every spare moment, with Hugh and Mervyn j following Tom with horses and plough, dropping one or other of these seeds in the furrow.

My school-organ was put to a new use on November 27th, when holidays began, and the energetic teacher organised a "break-up" dance, at which over fifty were present, and I played most of the 'music.

A day or two later, Polly, who was getting so happy and useful, received a ,telegram from her husband telling her to join him at Dargaville, where he had got work as a blacksmith, so without more ado she packed up and left by 'coach.

"You will miss him if he comes to meet you, Polly."

" Oh, someone will tell him." "But there is no 'someone' in New Zealand,

where you are not known." And off she went. Just as I had expected, Mr.

'Arris came late at night for his Polly. " She's gone." " Gone," said he; "I'll be after her," and so he was,

having, we heard -afterwards, brought plenty of luggage, "hopin' to get some shootin, and fishiu' at Captain Stewart's." Polly promised to write, but forgot. I wonder what became of her. , Next day Mervyn drove me to Waihi, which now boasted of a Registry Office, and there I engaged Celia at I2S. a week j a good servant who stayed with me about three months, until her mother opened a boarding-house and needed her help.

187MY SIM PLE LIFE IN NEW ZEALAND.186 MY SIMPLE LIFE IN NEW ZEALAND. 190 4 190 4

trained for work, but most objectionable otherwise, and so dishonest that one's property was never safe. With all my precautions I was robbed of some valuable jewellery. At the end of two and a-half months I sent her away.

On April roth the new Bishop held a Confirmation Service in St. Peter's Church. There were twentysix candidates. . He called at Athenree on his way back to Waihi~ and delighted us with his sympathetic, genial manner. He very much admired our American Angle Lamps, comparing them favourably with electric light.

Our young friends at Hillside having made a t enniscourt, a Club was formed at the moderate subscription of Is. for the season, and there was a meeting every Wednesday, at which the heads of families (six, or eight) provided tea in turns. This was a very popular gathering, especially among the men, who at the conclusion of play had to hurry home to milk. On these occasions I took care to lock every door an cupboard possible before leaving Athenree, but forgo t one of my bedroom windows; thus, I suppose, the naughty girl of whom I have spoken was able to rob me.

A favourite niece who often came to sJC:e me for a few days and always made herself useful, was approaching her eighteenth birthday. As this was on May 24th, I determined to. give a dance in her bonour, and sent out about a hundred invitations a month beforehand. Soon came replies, generally accepting. Trips to Waihi dressmakers became very frequent, the report ,having spread that some Naval Officers were coming. This rurnour, alas, was not realised in fact. A kind neighbour, a very clever amateur cook, offered to make all my cakes, which

offer I gladly accepted, of course, and most delicious they were. In Waihi Mervyn engaged professionals, piano and violin , to play for dancing, as I was no longer strong enough to enter tain and play. Kind neighbours call ed to offer help, and under the trees we sat plucking chickens (six pairs), and three brace of pheasants, being rewarded with tea at intervals. We baked bread every 'day. Made six gallons of soup, twelve quart moulds of jelly, trifles, fruit-salads, and endless other good things. The 24th came; the house was transformed into a bower of beauty. At 7 p.m. the guests (invited for 8) began to arrive, nearly roo, some in the first Waihi "cab" (a handsome carriage and pair); and, to piano and violin dancing, began with unl imited refreshments. Then supper ; after that the Cotillon and more dances ill 3.30 , when fhis, our last ball, broke up. The

musicians having been left behind, had to sleep here. n counting the silver, I found one fork missing;

search was made for it in vain, and I gave it up for los t. About a week later, when passing an upholstered .. cosy nook," my keen sense of smell detected something , and on lifting a cushion, th ere were on a plate t he remains of a chicken-wing and the fork, which some facetious guest had thus concealed.

On June zoth I received this touching telegram: " Good bye. Ranfurly;" and felt our New Zealand flashes of sunshine were over. Lord Plunket arrived as new Gov ernor, but I saw him once only, in January, 1905, in Waihi,

Our position at Athenree, owing to advancing years, failing health, increasing work and decreasing help, was growing intolerable, so we put the property in th e hands of agents for sale, and intending purchasers began to call. First came a couple from Auckland.

8 M'i SI M" I.E LIFE P, NoEli\' 7EAUND. I

a ,I

190 4 MY SIMPLE LIFE IN NEW ZEAL AND . 189

abo ut tw enty friends ca me from the count ry round and spe nt what to th em seemed a very pl easant eveni ng. It was a novel and st range form of ente rtainme nt for Hugh an d me.

H aving read in t he New Z ealand. H erald of Sist er ecil's good work in th e Childre n's Home, Auck

la nd, an d how much in n eed of help she was, I wrote sympathetically offering to make so me clothes. She r ep lied gra te fully, naming what she most needed, so Mervyn did th e cu tting out to save me the fati gue, anti 1 had th is inte res ting parcel to make up, adding' a few white croche t ta rn- o-tshanters, w hich w ere so becom ing th at a t Sisler Cecil's reques t I made t wo

oze n more to supply ali the dear little ones. I was so ill at Limes a ll t h is winter an d spring t

my garden ....·as neglected . As sum mer a pproached as able . to do a liu le we eding. The flower-beds

I no st spoke reproaches: they looked as if I were IrIe.' ~arly In Decem ber 1 wen t t o a bazaar in aid 0

h, VIC:U-' S sti pend. Spent much mo nev and met iiny friends.

e new vicar of Wailn and his bride, lately from paid U5 a visit, and were most easy, apprecia

gu ests. Iughand I wound up the o ld year by gt:tlIDg u

.1 sual in hot wea ther at 5 a. rn, to ma ke butter .n e ~2 IbF.. ms king 20'7 lbs . for I he month's

19° MY SIMPLE LIFE IN NEW ZEALAND. 19°5

So tormented were we with strangers to see the place with a view to purchase-in 'most cases to gratify curiosity only-that we decided to withdraw it from sale and resign ourselves to our fate.

February roth was an extra busy day of baking, cooking, and packing, for in honour of a niece Florrie's birthday we had organised a picnic to the Waihi Beach Gold Mine neighbourhood. We mustered a party of fifty, and had a good lunch in a beautiful pohutakawa grove, after which all scattered for strolls, cricket, bathing, and inspection of Mine. We re-assembled for tea, and went home by moonlight at 10 p.m, This was such a success, and made all so happy, that I forced another effort, and sent out invitations for a garden party on March 17th:

I drove with Hugh and Mervyn to a summer camp at Fraser Point to call on friends. There was a welldefined cart-track on the short cut on the sands, but on our return home we thought we would do better and try a shorter cut, Hugh having got out to gather cockles. Presently the mare gave an ominous snort and shiver, and down we went into a quicksa nd. the mare leg-deep and the trap to the axles. " Jump out," said Mervyn. which I promptly did, an d was soon on terra firma. I ran for help to some menMaoris digging gum on the shore. They brought some long pieces of wood, undid the harness and liberated the mare; then by sheer force and goodwill levered up the trap, drew it on to firm sand, put in the mare, and home we went, passing a hole where a neighbour had had a similar experience the previous day. .

Another niece, Erin. came to stay, and helped me make Turkish delight, chocolate caramels, p ink and white cocoanut rock, cakes, biscuits, pastry, etc.,

»,... :T III ::l

Ig05 MY SIMPLE LIFE IN NEW ZEALAND. IgI

one day, and the next to cook chickens, ham, lamb, pies, etc., for the garden party. My special friend the clever teacher came from a distance and managed things beautifully. The tea-table was most artistic and tempting with all the good things just enumerated and baskets and plates of peaches, nectarines, and all sorts of fruits, March being the most abundant month. At 3 p.rn, our guests began to arrivenearly sixty in all. Some friendly amateurs entertained us with piano, violin, and violoncello in the verandah. There was a cheery run of eating, strolling, flirting, and dancing until II.30 p.m., some of our guests saying it was the pleasantest of all Athenree entertainments.

All my spare time was devoted to working for a bazaar in aid of a new church in Waihi, the energetic vicar being dissatisfied with the original early days' edifice-now that the town had grown so much and contained a church or chapel of almost every denomination. The Mayoress and other ladies having declined the honour, the vicar asked me to

pen the bazaar, which, on May 4th, at 7.30 p.m., in the large Academy of Music, I had much pleasure in doing, having, as a pioneer-settler, known the site of th e new church when it was uncleared bush. I said :

.. Ladies and Gentlemen,-It is with very great pleasure that at the request of the vicar, I, as an old ident ity who knew Waihl, as it were, before its existe nce, open this bazaar, so splendidly arranged, for the new church building fund. The present edifice, which for some years was too large for the parish, has now proved itself too small for the growing population of this fine town. In these circumstances I would suggest that we make a tour of the

1906 MY SIMPLE LIFE IN NEW ZEALAND. 193 192 MY SIMPLE LIFE IN NEW ZEALAND. 19°5

hall and purchase liberally from the various attractive stalls for which the vicar and Ladies' Guild have worked so hard in providing so many useful and ornamental articles as are displayed, feeling sure that we shall get good value for the money spent on so laudable an object." Then by way of good example I made purchases.

Having made up our minds that we should never sell Athenree, we decided to have some rooms repapered and painted, and engaged a most competent workman with sons, who did the work very satisfactorily and artistically during the wettest month of July. It was also bitterly cold, so that Mervyn had his first experience of chilblains, being exposed in all weathers when fetching cows and milking and driving or riding to political meetings in all weathers, night and day.

While the dining-room was being painted and papered, and having no servants, we all took our meals in the kitchen, 'tfter supper Hugh reading the daily. paper aloud to a. most appreciative audience. Within three weeks we had returned to our usua rooms, which were really extremely bright and pretty.

In August we received an invitation from the Kati Kati Road Board to a soiree on Sept. 15th, in commemoration of the thirtieth anniversary of the Kati Kati Settlement, to which, of course, we went and were much entertained by speeches, songs from the Glee Club, winding up with the invariable dance.

Mervyn's annual trip to Auckland came round in October, so we were lucky in getting a nice little boy (Tommy) to milk, etc., during his fortnight's absence. He ordered from Hay, Auckland, a collection of delphiniums and chrysanthemums, which,with later on

some cactus dahlias, made a grand show the following summer and promised beautifully for the next, when I was really" gone."

On November qth the railway to "vVaihi was opened by the Premier. Hugh and Mervyn ' went to the ceremony and mayoral banquet that followed.

Christmas brought more visitors than ever, with teams of hot, thirsty horses, for whom Hugh had such pity that he arranged pipes which carried water from our house to a large tub on the roadside, where all creatures, two or four-legged, could drink and be

thankful. 1906, New Year's Day, destined to be our last in

New Zealand-little as we knew it-saw Hugh and me for a wonder alone in the house, the others having gone to the Bowentown Regatta, which we viewed from our bay-window through a telescope.

Next day we three were up at 5 a.m. milking and churning, so that with the great heat I was very tired and felt so ill that I wondered how long I should last.

ut, after resting an hour, I revived and prepared for

a trip to Waihi. On January roth, Mervyn drove me to the Vicar

age, where was a charming lunch-party, followed by a visit from the Governor, Lord Plunket, and Captain Bingham, A.D.C. The Bishop was also there, and in heavy rain we all proceeded outside, where, under an awning, a great crowd of all denominations were assembled to witness the ceremony of laying the foundation-stone of new St. John's Church, a proud and happy day for the energetic young Vicar and his wife, who had worked so hard for tnis object. A day or two after, when we were enjoying r.ur early dinner, a hot, perspiring man appeared in shirt sleeves with coat on his arm, in the verandah.


"Come in and have some dinner," which he did. Having been cooled and refreshed, he said he had walked eight miles to see the property, which he wished to buy, "because it's the prettiest place I've seen out of England," which was very likely true, but we did not come to terms then. .

A day or two latter Euphemia, now Mrs. James Stewart, drove me to Waihi with my exhibits of flowers, lemons, butter, cider and hop-beer for the show. I won first prizes for everything and felt quite proud. Euphemia accompanied me to afternoon tea at one house and supper at another. "Two Mrs. Stewarts," she said, " 'j ust like sisters." On parting at our gate she remarked, "We have had a happy day, have not we? "

On entering the dining-room I found that Hugh had laid down on the floor a pretty new linoleum (£2) in honour of the new paper and paint.

Times seemed tome very dull for the young people in the country. My health forbade any more big 'entertainments, especially at night; I could not fight against Providence for fear of serious consequences. One day Mervyn said, "Why don't you start a F rench club? " The idea was a surprise, and, so were my feelings when, on suggesting it to some young neighbours, they said, "Oh, do." Therefore I wrote to the French Consul in Auckland, who was most sympathetic, and introduced me to a lady, who recornmended to me "Longman's First French Reading Book and Grammar" and" Charlin's Anglo-French Course" (Second Part) as the best for beginners. On Wednesday, April 4th, we held our first meeting, the house being gaily decorated with tricolour flags. We were twelve members-all honorary. Only two besides our family party knew any French; so from my


sofa I began with the alphabet, noticing remarkable variations in accent, the Irish pronouncing the French U correctly from the first. All were much interested and anxious to learn. Such a novelty after the daily routine of farm-life! They had a good tea, when French conversation was started, and all went away very bright and happy, with visions of meetings once a week ' all through the dreary winter. But twelve were all we enjoyed; after that the club broke up, because Athenree was sold. So interested was the French Consul in my venture that I wrote occasionally to tell him of our progress, always in French of course, and great was my pleasure at receiving one day an official-looking letter as follows :

"Club Fran<;ais, Auckland, le 27 Avril, 1906.

"MADAME,-Nous avons l'honneur de vous faire savoir: que par un vote unanime de notre assernblee, reunie hier au , soir, vous avez ete elue Membre d'Horineur du Club Fran<;ais a Auckland. Ce titre vous a 6te confere comme. un temoignage de notre vive sympathie a l'occasion de l'ouverture du Club Fran~is .qui s'est forme sur votre initive et sous votre

direction a Athenree. "Veuillez agn~er, Madame, l'hommage de tout

notre respect. Le President R. Boeufve-e-Le Secretaire N. A. Winter, B.A.

" Madame Adela B. Stewart, Athenree, via Waihi,

Nouvelle Zelande." '

Having had a request from the Committee to judge chrysanthemums at the Tauranga Flower Show, accompanied by a pressing invitation from a dear young married couple to pay them a visit, I took the long coach-drive on April 24th, my hostess' birthday,

and met with a most warm welcome from her and her husband in their lovely home a mile or two from Tauranga. My visit was altogether delightful; the show was lovely,' and I renewed acquaintance with many whom I had not seen since we landed in New Zealand twenty-eight years previously. My return coach-fare to Tauranga (thirty-seven miles) was 20S.

By my absence the Club had missed a meeting, so we returned with renewed enthusiasm to French the following \Vednesday, and I had much home-work to attend to. Autumn leaves had fallen thick all round the house; as the trees grew, so also did the work of raking and burning. Mervyn helped me, still I was too tired.

People would . continue coming to look at the place, keeping our nerves strung ·up. Our enquirer of the early New Year tried us again and again. His importunity succeeded, and feeling our position getting desperate, as far as help from man or woman was concerned, we yielded, and sold the place at a great sacrifice.

One of the New Zealand Herald staff called to make enquiries and report on the projected Waihi to Tauranga Railway. We entertained him for a night, and he expressed great regret that we should be forced to leave so beautiful a home because of the hard work and advancing years. 'r You may depend that we have not taken so serious a step without long and anxious thought," I replied.

" Your work is recorded in heaven," he soothingly said.

Then we began to pack. Hugh went to Auckland to sign deeds, transfer the property, and so forth. I could not sleep, so spent the night hours packing. My lady-help cut her finger, and so was incapacitated.

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1906MY SIMPLE LIFE IN NEW ZEALAND.196

., 1906 MY SIMPLE LIFE IN NEW ZEALAND• 197

After three days' absence Hugh 'returned,saying, "I hope you are packing up. Our passages are taken by the T1wakina from Lyttelton on July 5th." just a fortnight, and one to be remembered! The news' spread like wildfire. .

"Would there be an auction? " "No." "Would there be a private ,sale?" " No." All, except a few pictures, books, and personal

treasures went with the place-furniture, implements, cattle, sheep, and horses, even a store-room full of provisions and abundance of fowl-feed. So thankful were we to have sold that we were lavishly generous to the purchaser.

I had a touching farewell with the members of my French Club, who gave me a beautiful purse and card-case. We engaged a boy to milk so that the new owners should not suffer for lack of milk, cream, butter, etc., after our departure. Neither did I neglect the sitting and laying hens, little chicks, ducks, and turkeys, which, as usual, were the earliest in the settlement. Visitors were so numerous that during this last week I did almost the record cooking, as all were entertained at dinner, tea, and sometimes bed to the very last. Our farewell Sunday afternoon service at the School was a trial. A niece took my place at the organ, and the Vicar read a very touching parting address.

Two days later the new owners arrived by coach on a most lovely midwinter morning. I pass over their unfeigned admiration and astonishment. "Are we to get all this?" "Are we to get all that?" as they looked round the beautiful scene and lovely bright home.

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" You will come back and stay with us some day, won 't you ? " they kindly asked. But : they themselves left the place in twe lve months, after selling every movable thing on the property.

T he following day, June 27th, the coach took us to W aihi. With closed eyes I passed the plantations of fine trees, which so many years ago, when young, strong, and hopeful I had made; they seemed like friends. We drove to the Waihi Hotel, where many came to say "good-bye," and through torrents of rain we went in the evening to the Miners' Union Hall for a farewell social, organised by many kind friends in our honour.• I think it is due to them to copy the following hearty addresses :

"CAPTAIN AND MRS. STEWART, ATHENREE.

lIOn the eve of your departure from this Colony, which has for so long been your home, we, your Waihi friends, desire to express our keen regret at the loss your departure will occasion us. For years we have a.ll enjoyed the open-handed hospitality and hearty welcome that awaited everyone at you r old home, Athenree, and it will occasion a keen pang of regret in passing the beautiful old homestead, that is now occupied by strangers, and your familiar faces .are no longer there. Transformed from a wilderness state to its present picturesque homeliness by your own perseverance and energy, your old Kati Kati home will always be a landmark to your New Zealand friends; and it is to such pioneer settlers as you that this country owes its prosperity and present importance. We trust that in leaving us to go back to the old Homeland you will be spared a long life of health and happiness amongst your still older friends, and that quiet peace will be your lot

1906 LE LlFE IN NEW ZEALAND. 199

after the strenuous days of Colonial life SO successfully borne. Unitedly we all wish you God-speed.Waihi, J une 27th, 1906. Taos, GIL~IOU R, Mayor. on behalf of the citi zens and friends. II

' MERVY N J. STEWART, E SQ., ATHENREE.

"DEAR Sm,-Your many Waihi friends cannot allow you to depart without expressing their appreciation of the work you have done in the many public movements with which you have been connected; not only those of local interest, but in the large sphere of Colonial politics. We think your public spirited disinterestedness and energy might well serve as an example to many of our Colonial young men, and trust that the blank made by your departure may be filled by someone who will devote something of the same spirit to local movements with which you have been so intimately connected. We fervently hope that in your new home you will enter upon a career for which your talents and charac ter are so eminently fitted and that will satisfy in the fullest manner the aspirations that you cherish. -Waihi, June 27th, 1906. THOS. GILMOUR, Mayor,

n behalf of the citizens and friends. It

hese addresses were read by the Mayor, who presented us each with a beautiful souvenir, for which we each in turn expressed our warmest thanks ; and so, with much shaking of hands, we parted from all there, and the following morning from a crowd of friends gathered to see us off by train for the first and last time to Auckland. There for a day or two with our dear old friends, the F. M.'s, we bade endless adieux, and on Saturday, June 30th, left in the Tarauera. We had a most


comfortable trip to Napier, where on Monday we landed, and as Dr. de Lisle's guests breakfasted at his hotel and went a short trip by train to Hastings, where we were introduced to Mrs. de Lisle in their charming new home. · Next day we landed at Wellington-our first visit to the capital-a fine, busy place. We called on the acting Premier, Mr. Hall-Jones, who was very cordial, and said he regretted our leaving New Zealand-" Hugh and I, because we had done so much in the past, and Mervyn because he had such hopes for him in the future."

We had a very rough passage to Lyttelton, found our luggage had been landed at Wellington, which caused us some pardonable anxiety, but after endless telegrams backwards and forwards it all turned -up in time. We walked about the town covered with snow, and felt the cold less than we should have expected after so many years with none. We took possession of our cabins on board R.M.S. Twrakina, 8,210 tons, under Commander F. Forbes, with about 130 passengers on board, and sailed at 3 p.m. on Thursday, July 5th.

We had very fine weather, but it soon grew intensely cold, and it needed pluck to. go on deck for a constitutional out of the well-heated saloon and charming ladies' boudoir. Nearly everyone took cold. I collapsed with influenza, indulged in bed for a week, feeling most thankful ' I was not at Athenree.

On July 24th we anchored, went ashore, about 2t miles, in a tender, and landed at Monte Video, where we spent an amusing day sight-seeing and trying to make ourselves understood in shops where only Spanish was spoken !


After so many years in New Zealand old Monte Video was a charming contrast, some of the streets presenting quite a gay, theatrical scene, with handsome carriages, giant-wheeled carts, drawn by illmatched mules, mule-drawn tramcars, fanciful uniforms, sombre monks and nuns, mantilla-clad Spaniards, and picture-hatted coloured ladies.

On our return we found the Turakina black with coaling. The days were so monotonous that I started a little French club, and had several interested members. There were plenty of concerts and dances and sports, in which the Captain most loyally feigned to take the deepest interest! Soon came a few days of tropical heat, when we had plenty of ice, even icecreams I Landing at Teneriffe to avoid another day's coaling on board was the only excitement until on T uesday, August 14th, after a voyage of five weeks and five days, we arrived at Plymouth in perfectly lovely weather at 2 p.m., and in London the following day, finding it on the whole exactly as we had left it more than twenty-eight years ago.

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my simple life in new zealand by adela stewart

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