on ropes

Leo climbs the Lake DistrictWelcome to the Adventure Capital,the Lake District, Cumbria. Famous for its stunning landscapes of lakes and fells the country’s biggest adventure playgroundis breathtaking - in every sense of the word!

This leaflet contains four of local adventurer Leo Houlding’s favourite climbing routes. These varyin difficulty, so everyone from the novice climber to the seasoned adventurer can get out and enjoy the best of the Adventure Capital.

Whatever your flavour of adventure, it is all here just waiting for you. For inspiration and to discover more, visit www.golakes.co.uk/adventure

Leo Houlding is becoming ahousehold name in extreme adventure. A world class climber, Alpinist and BASE jumper on a constant searchfor the ultimate adventure.

“My Cumbrian roots and the world class environment we have here has prepared me for epic climbs such as Mt. Everest and adventures on some of the greatest rock faces in the world. I frequently travel to the far-flung corners of the earth in pursuit of extreme adventure: in between exploits, there's nowhere I'd rather be than back home in the Lake District, Cumbria.

An amazing adventure playground, the mountain and outdoor sports we have here are as enjoyable as anywhere in the world (and the beer is better!). From starting in the Lake District, Cumbria, climbing has taken me to places I never dreamed existed and experiences more wild than I could have possibly imagined.”

on foot

on wheels

on ropes on course

on water

pedal or paddle, hike or climb, conquer your competitive spirit or just get out there and enjoy

for more information visit www.golakes.co.uk/adventure

supported by

where to get on inthe adventure capital

Useful informationcar parking Please use official car parks, this helps to keep the roads clear and reduces the numbers of cars parked indiscriminately.

accommodation in cumbria

Visit www.golakes.co.uk/stay to search for and book local accommodation.

weather

The weather in the Lake District can change quickly, particularlyon the fells where clear morning skies can rapidly give way to rain, sleet or even snow on the summits, so be prepared! Changes in weather can dramatically alter the difficulty of a route so please consider this before you set off. Call 0844 846 2444 or visit www.lakedistrict.gov.uk/weatherline to check the forecast.

practical information

Appropriate clothing can make all the difference: it is important to be warm, comfortable and dry when out exploring so have the appropriate kit and plenty of layers.

Mobile phone reception isn’t always good in the Lake District. Leave details of your route and expected finish time with a buddy. If you are delayed, please contact your buddy to let them know. This will prevent mountain rescue, a team of volunteers, being called out unnecessarily. If there is an emergency call 999. Ask for Cumbria Police and give your location; an accurate grid reference is ideal.

Take care when climbing to minimise erosion to the rock and damage to vegetation as many of the Lakeland climbing sites are of national importance for plants and birds. Access to some sites where no public right of way exists is only permitted because of the good willof the landowners, please climb with consideration.

Visit www.thebmc.co.uk to check conditions before climbing.

watch footage of leo climbing these classicroutes at www.golakes.co.uk/leoclimbs

climbing routes

new to climbing? Then build up skills and gain experience with qualified instructors both outside on the crags and inside on climbing walls.

Contact these businesses for more information and to arrangea climb with a qualified instructor.

Find out more about climbing and activity providers at the adventure hub in the Keswick Information Centre, call 01768 772 645 or go to www.golakes.co.uk/onropes.

The Lakeland Climbing CentreLake District Business Park, Mintbridge Road,Kendal, LA9 6NH

call: 01539 721766click: info@kendalwall.co.ukvisit: www.kendalwall.co.uk

Keswick Climbing WallGoosewell Farm, Keswick, CA12 4RN

call: 017687 72000click: info@keswickclimbingwall.co.ukvisit: www.keswickclimbingwall.co.uk

www.golakes.co.uk/onropes

Brown Slabs Arête (Diff.)Brown Slabs Face (V.Diff.)

Brown Slabs Direct (V.Diff.)

Brown Slabs (V.Diff.) descent routeover the backof the slabsfold

B R O W N S L A B S A R E A

Brown Slabs

North Buttress

Fisher's Folly ButtressChamonix Area

CLIMBSapproach

To Keswick To GrangeB5289

for more information, inspiration or if you’re new to climbing and wantto learn with a qualified guide, visit www.golakes.co.uk/onropes

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Napes NeedleGreat Gable CragGrade Hard SevereLength 21mPitches 2Quality 3 starApproach 1 - 11/2 hoursAscent Time less than 2 hoursStart Point Wasdale or Seathwaite, Borrowdale Descent Lead down the needle ascend gully to topGuide Book Pillar and GableFirst Ascent 1886 Walter Parry Haskett-Smith

leo’s approach:Another undisputed über-classic, the silhouette of this unlikely spire has been the icon of British rock climbing for more than a century. The first ascent, done solo, in 1886 is widely regarded as the birth of modern rock climbing.

Situated high on the flanks of Great Gable, an ascent of the Needleis a day in the fells you will never forget. The shortest walk in is from Wasdale (1 hour) though most prefer to take the slightly longer approach (11/4 hours) from the more accessible Seathwaite in Borrowdale.

There are actually eight routes up the Needle. All are great climbs but the Arête is least difficult and most fun. The hardest part of the climb is getting on top of, and down from, the Needle though the difficulties are far easier than they appear. The best way to get off the Needle is to lower the second to the shoulder and for the leader to down climb the pitch removing the protection on the way down.

Shepherd's Crag

North ButtressChamonix Area

Fisher's Folly Buttress

B5289 To GrangeTo Keswick

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approach1 Botterill‛s Slab

Moss Ghyll Groves Mos

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TheGreatFlake The

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Botterill‛s Slab

Moss Ghyll Groves Mos

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TheGreatFlake The

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Rake‛s ProgressRake‛s Progress

Rake‛s Progress approach

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CLIMB

CentralButtress

ScafellSlight Side

Symonds KnottDeep Ghyll/West

Wall Traverse

HollowStones

GreatMoss

Pikes Crag

Foxes Tarn

Cam SpoutCrag

Pikes Crag

Foxes Tarn

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Scafell PikeScafell Pike

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Needle Ridge

Napes Needle

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Great GableWestmorland's

Cairn

Westmorland'sCrag

Great HellGate

Little HellGate

Great HellGate

Little HellGate

NapesNeedle

SphinxRock

DressCircle Tophet

Wall KernKnotts

WhiteNapes

T H E N A P E S

Sty Head

Beck Headvia

Gavel Neese

Browns Slabs AreteShepherd’s CragGrade V DiffLength 40mPitches 1Quality 3 starApproach 5 - 10 min flat walkAscent Time less than 1 hourStart Point Shepherd’s Crag Café, Borrowdale Descent Scramble off the back to the leftGuide Book BorrowdaleFirst Ascent 1922 CD Frankland and B Beetham

leo’s approach:Brown Slabs at Shepherd’s Crag is the best place in theLakes for an introduction to rock climbing. This is nogreat secret, hence the rock is polished and it can getbusy at times. However, the great views over Derwentwater and easy yet interesting climbingmake it a worthy starting point.

Like countless others, I began my vertical journey on this modest slab andit has led me onto some remarkable climbs on the grandest walls in themost amazing places.

There are several routes of Diff or V Diff on the low angle slab, the best being Brown Slabs Arête on the left, though it is possible to climb almost anywhere.

Top roping is popular and the best option for novices, but leading the climbs is much more exciting and rewarding. The protection is a little tricky to arrange in places but the gentle angle and abundance of good holds helpto calm beginners’ nerves.

Little ChamonixShepherd’s CragGrade V DiffLength 71mPitches 3 or 4Quality 3 starApproach 5 - 10 min flat walkAscent Time 2 - 3 hoursStart Point Shepherd’s Crag Café, Borrowdale Descent Walk to right of crag and down pathGuide Book BorrowdaleFirst Ascent 1946 B Beetham

leo’s approach:Named after the great Alpine climbing centre, the exposure and steep finale to this route evokeall the emotions of a big climb: it was my first multi-pitch route and forever changed myperspective of the world.

A gentle warm up pitch leads to a good ledge and tree belay. The second pitch is as technical as it gets at this grade, the traverse along the block requiring some creative climbing before the splendidly exposed saddle belay leads to the magnificent and airy final section. Steeper than you would expect, it is thankfully short lived and the big holds are a huge relief. This pitch is extremely photogenic from the buttress opposite.

The friendly flat top and tree belay provide a comfortable spot to admire the view and reflect on the day’s achievements (and those of the late local legend Ray Macfee who famously climbed this route in roller skates and boxing gloves!).

Central ButtressScafellGrade E1 5bLength 171mPitches 6Quality 2 stars (“I think it should be 3 star!”)Approach 11/2 hours from WasdaleAscent Time 3 - 6 hours team dependentStart Point Wasdale, Seathwaite or Langdale Descent Walk down Mickledore, 1 hourGuide Book Scafell, Wasdale and EskdaleFirst Ascent 1914 SW Herford, GS Sansom, CF Holland

leo’s approach:Reaching higher into the fells is rewarded, not justfor the peace and splendour you would expect, but also with the very finest rock: nowhere in Lakelandwill you find rock of superior quality on which toclimb than on Scafell.

The Central Buttress route weaves its way up the centre of the main faceof this complicated crag and can justifiably claim to be one of the most famous rock climbs in the country. Though some of the original character of the climb was lost with tragic consequences when the chock stone fell out of the great flake in 1994, a slight variation allows it to be climbedwith only a small increase in difficulty.

This is a long climb, much more difficult and involved than the others I've described here, however if you enjoyed the others, once you have gained more skill and experience, Central Buttress is a big day out that you will always remember. High and exposed it is best done in the summer and, due to the length and complicated nature of the line, a guide book is essential. Consider bringing a small amount of food and water on the climb to enjoy on one of the great belay ledges.

Numerous variations of this climb can be done by linking pitches from other routes. Ascending pitch 3 of the Nazgul makes for a less wandering, slightly harder and more sustained ascent definitely worth 3 stars.

To North Buttress& Brown Crag

BroadStandBroadStand

MickledoreMickledore

ShamrockShamrock

CLIMB