July - August 2009

In this Issue...

Late blight is here!

Are You Having Tomato Issues?

Landscape Diseases

Mosquitoes

Tropical Water Lilies

Questions and Answers

Grow It Eat It Update

AGNR Open House – save the date!

Calendars

Websites

Home and Garden Information Center

Grow It Eat It

Maryland Master Gardeners

Check your tomato and potato plants: late blight has come to Maryland!

by Jon Traunfeld, Extension Special ist , Fruits and Vegetables, and State Master Gardener Coordinator

On June 12, the Home and Garden Information Center submitted a tomato sample from a Howard Co. gardener to the Karen Rane, Ph.D., Director of the University of Maryland Plant Diagnostic Laboratory in College Park. Karen quickly confirmed that the plant was infected with late blight, a disease that few Maryland gardeners have seen before. The disease has been confirmed on tomato and potato plants from another Howard Co. garden and I have seen it in several other backyard and community gardens in Howard Co. It’s likely that gardeners in other counties and Baltimore City may have infected plants. Late blight is a fungus-like disease infects and kills tomato and potato. The pathogen, Phytophthora infestans, was responsible for the Irish potato famine of the 1840’s. The disease thrives during wet, humid weather when temperatures are cool at night and below 85º F in the daytime. We had that kind of weather in May and June. The pathogen does not normally overwinter in Maryland and is not carried on tomato seed. The source of the disease was traced back to Southern producers of tomato transplants that shipped and distributed infected plants via large retail outlets. The disease can spread rapidly within and between gardens. The primary symptoms are 1) tan to brown, water-soaked spots on leaves that enlarge quickly, killing entire leaves; 2) brown spots on plant stems; and 3) shiny, dark or olive-colored lesions on tomato fruits which may cover large areas. Infected potato tubers develop a dry, corky rot that often shows up in storage.

Late blight symptoms on tomato leaf Late blight on stem Infected fruit

See more late blight photos on the Grow It Eat It website If you believe you have infected plants I strongly encourage you to remove them immediately to protect your neighbors’ gardens and local farmers. Pull them out and place them in a large plastic bag. Seal the bag and leave it out in the sunshine to “bake” for a few days before putting it in a trash can. This will help to kill the pathogen and prevent it from infecting your garden next season. Do not attempt to compost infected plants.

This is a destructive disease. Contact horticulture consultants at HGIC via the “hotline” or Send a question if you have any questions about your tomato and potato plants. The following web sites have pictures and more detailed information about late blight and other tomato diseases: Grow it Eat it photo gallery (growit.umd.edu) Home and Garden Information Center (hgic.umd.edu) HGIC’s Plant Diagnostics (plantdiagnostics.umd.edu)

Are You Having Tomato Issues? by Jon Traunfeld, Extension Special ist , Fruits and Vegetables, and State Master

Gardener Coordinator

Tomatoes are the #1 vegetable garden crop in Maryland so it’s no laughing matter when our prized tomato plants fail to live up to our expectations. The tomato plant may grow like a weed under “normal” Maryland growing conditions, but every summer Master Gardeners and Home and Garden Information Center experts counsel hundreds of gardeners about their tomato woes. Sometimes there is no short or easy answer- “I’m growing the same plum tomato my grandfather brought over from Sicily and it doesn’t taste the same as when my grandfather grew it”. Sometimes we can only offer advice on preventing the problem next year- “I planted my tomatoes 6 inches apart like my brother told me. The plants look ok but I don’t see many tomatoes.” Here are three common tomato problems that trouble many gardeners. With some basic knowledge you can manage and overcome these “issues” to produce a bumper tomato crop. Stink bugs If you’ve ever squished a stink bug you quickly understand how they got the name. They are armed with a strong repellent scent that deters predators. These are shy critters that drop to the ground when disturbed. Most gardeners never even see the Southern green stink bugs and brown stinkbug that walk around their tomato plants. But they certainly notice the feeding injury. These stink bugs insert their slender mouthparts through the skin of tomato fruits and suck out cell contents. This causes the cells to collapse leaving behind the tell-tale “cloudy spot”. The spots feel spongy or hard and are either white or yellow in color. The good news is that the damage is fairly superficial and does not cause the fruit to rot. Cut out the damage with a sharp paring knife. So how do I get rid of these stink bugs? It’s not so easy. They are secretive creatures and difficult to handpick. But you can search for and squish their short, barrel-shape eggs, laid on the undersides of tomato leaves in June. Clean up plant debris at the end of the season to remove cozy places for the adults to spend the winter months. Tilling the soil in fall further disrupts overwintering sites. For persistent problems, you can try spraying insecticidal soap, neem, or pyrethrum to control nymphs (young stinkbugs). Thick organic mulches provide a desirable habitat for stinkbugs. Where population or damage is high, consider removing the mulch. Stinkbugs have many natural predators and parasitoids. Take good care of these beneficial insects by avoiding pesticides all together.

Southern green stink bug Brown stink bug

The "cloudy spot" caused by stink bug feeding Brown marmorated stink bug*

The Brown marmorated stink bug is an exotic pest that is spreading across Maryland and feeds on fruit crops. Please call us (800-342-2507) if you notice it feeding on vegetable plants this year.

Early blight Alternaria solani (early blight) is the principal foliar disease of tomato east of the Mississippi River. It also attacks potato and eggplant. Fungal spores in the soil splash onto lower leaves and the disease progresses up the plant. The initial symptom is small, irregular brown lesions with bulls-eye pattern and yellow halo. It can spread rapidly with warm, humid weather and quickly defoliate plants. The disease overwinters in crop debris, wooden stakes, and in soil. Early blight infects tomatoes in the majority of Maryland farm fields and gardens every year. You cannot escape it; but you can identify and monitor this disease by closely examining lower leaves. Here are some tips for managing early blight:

Irregular dark lesions with yellow halos are an early symptom on

lower leaves.

Close-up of early blight lesion showing bulls-eye pattern.

Advanced early blight symptoms. Without protective foliage tomatoes

become sunburned.

Give plants more space to improve air circulation and leaf drying from rain or morning dew - at least 2 ft. between plants that are staked. Water at the base of your plants; avoid wetting the foliage. Remove infected lower leaves and discard them in the trash. As a last resort, you can spray with a fixed copper fungicide. Copper fungicides are allowable in organic farming. Two to three applications 10-14 days apart after symptoms are observed can manage this disease in most garden situations. Cultivars vary somewhat in susceptibility; but none have good resistance. There is no research that would suggest that one mulch is better than another at preventing or slowing early blight. I have not observed any affects on disease severity from the use of organic mulches like straw, black plastic mulch,

or bare soil.

Leaf roll Did you know that at least 1/2 of the plant problem questions we tackle at HGIC are not caused by insects, diseases, or Bambi? Well, it’s true. For example, tomato fruits crack from excessive moisture and their bottoms turn brown due to blossom-end rot. They even get knocked over in thunderstorms. In spring, aphid feeding causes tomato leaves to curl or cup downward. When you unfold the leaves you see the aphids and their old, white skins. But this time of year gardeners may observe the thickening and severe upward curling of leaves, especially the lower leaves. This is more formally known as “physiologic leaf curl” because it is not caused by pests or pathogens. It is thought to be caused by cool, wet weather and water-soaked soil, staking and heavy pruning of suckers, damaging roots during cultivation, or hot, sunny weather. It has long been observed that some cultivars are more prone than others and that the condition is usually transitory and does not cause a yield reduction. So this is one “issue” you can observe with interest rather than trepidation.

Tomato leaf curl causes severe upward rolling that alarms gardeners.

For more information on tomato “issues” please visit the HGIC Plant Diagnostic website (http://plantdiagnostics.umd.edu/) or the Maryland Vegetable website (http://mdvegetables.umd.edu/) maintained by Jerry Brust, Ph.D., IPM Vegetable Specialist.

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Landscape Diseases by David Clement, Extension Special ist , P lant Pathology

With the unusually wet weather across Maryland this spring there have been many diseases present in the landscape. Most of these have been caused by plant pathogenic fungi. Examples of a few that are currently active are included below: Dogwood anthracnose caused by the fungus (Discula destructiva) is the most serious disease of dogwoods in the landscape and our forests. The fungus involved causes dieback or even death of infected trees. The early symptoms begin in mid to late May as leaf spots with tan or purple borders. In wet weather these spots can rapidly enlarge and kill the entire leaf. These blighted, drooping leaves will remain hanging on the branches in wet weather. The disease will then spread from the infected leaves into the twigs and branches and cause dieback of the limbs. If the dieback reaches the main trunk the entire tree can be killed. To distinguish this disease from other leaf spots (Elsinoë leaf spot), examine the underside of the leaves for numerous small tan to brown dots, about the size of a

printed period, scattered within the blighted tissue. These dots are the source of spores that will be washed by rain or dew and spread by insects to healthy leaves and neighboring trees. Under severe disease conditions the flower bracts can become spotted.

Management: In areas with severe disease, consider planting resistant dogwood species such as kousa dogwood, (Cornus kousa), or hybrids between kousa and flowering dogwood such as: 'Celestial', 'Milky Way', 'Stardust', 'Steeple', 'Stellar Pink' and others.

When disease pressure is severe, fungicides can be used on trees in landscapes in the spring at bud break, followed by additional sprays every 10-14 days until leaves are fully expanded. Trees should also be sprayed once in the fall after the leaves have changed color, but before leaf drop. For a list of labeled fungicides and other control options, see HG12, "IPM Series: Dogwood".

Dogwood anthracnose Elsinoë Leaf Spot

Spot Anthracnose of Dogwood or Elsinoë Leaf Spot The fungus Elsinoë corni causes a spot anthracnose primarily on Cornus florida. This disease should not be mistaken for another more serious dogwood disease called dogwood anthracnose caused by the fungus Discula destructiva. The disease can infect flower bracts, leaves, green stems, and fruit. The fungal lesions are about 1/8 of an inch across with a tan center surrounded by a reddish-purple border. These spots can be numerous and often fall out producing a ragged leaf appearance. The fungus overwinters on twigs and infections begin as new growth emerges in the spring.

Management: Since disease severity is sporadic, depending on how wet the spring season is, routine fungicide applications are not recommended and fungicides applied after symptom development will not cure visible symptoms. Check for registered fungicides available to homeowners at garden outlets. Cultivars that have shown resistance include Cherokee Princess, First Lady, Fragrant Cloud, Purple Glory, Springtime and Plena. Powdery Mildew on Shade Trees Powdery mildew is the common name for the disease and symptoms caused by a closely related group of fungi. These fungi grow on the upper and lower leaf surfaces, young stems, and shoot tips of plants. As they grow, they produce microscopic chains of spores that give infected areas their characteristic white powdery appearance.

The fungi parasitize the tissues of the plant causing a decline in its vigor. They also block light needed for photosynthesis. Infection is rarely lethal, but does cause leaf yellowing and browning, leaf distortion, early fall coloration, premature leaf drop, and blemished or aborted flowers and slower-than-normal growth.

The optimum conditions for powdery mildew development are warm days followed by cool, humid nights. Dry daytime weather allows spores to spread to other plants on air currents. On a cool evening they absorb enough moisture from the air to germinate and cause infection. The entire powdery mildew life cycle can take place in less than a week under ideal conditions, and many overlapping infection cycles can occur within a single growing season.

Powdery Mildew on Dogwood Management strategies: Control begins with selection of plants resistant to powdery mildew. Place susceptible plants where there is adequate sunlight and good air circulation to reduce humidity levels. Allow proper plant spacing for the same reasons. Pruning for better air circulation also may help. Registered fungicides may be needed if disease is severe. Check the label registration on horticultural oil products for powdery mildew control listings. When selecting new dogwood varieties, choose powdery mildew resistant cultivars of kousa, flowering dogwood or hybrids such as 'Cherokee Brave' (flowering), 'National' (kousa), 'Milky Way Select' (kousa), 'Stellar Pink' (hybrid), 'Stardust' (hybrid), 'Galaxy' hybrid), 'Constellation' (hybrid), 'Satomi' (kousa), 'Aurora' (hybrid) and others.

Fungal Wilt Diseases of Herbaceous Plants When fungi enter the roots and stems of a plant and cause stunting, wilt and death by plugging the vascular system, this is called a "vascular wilt." Infected plants wilt and die. If you cut into the stem, the vascular tissues show discoloration as tan, reddish, or dark streaking. Several fungi may cause vascular wilts in herbaceous plants. The primary means of introducing these pathogens is by purchasing infected plants that are not showing symptoms.

Fungal wilts are caused by species of Fusarium, Verticillium and Phytophthora. The fungus grows into the roots of a susceptible plant, and eventually grows up into the stem. If you cut into the stem, you can see a brown, olive green or sometimes reddish brown streaking in the vascular tissues just under the stem epidermis. Fusarium wilts tend to be very host specific that is the Fusarium that attacks one species of plant is unlikely to cause disease on other species in that genus, or other plants not closely related. In contrast, Verticillium and Phytophthora tend to have broader host ranges. Fusarium and Verticillium are favored by droughty conditions while Phytophthora is a "water mold' and it is favored by frequent irrigation and wet, slow draining soils. When the soil remains saturated, it stimulates the Phytophthora fungus to produce many infective swimming spores (zoospores), causing more severe disease.

Fusarium wilt often attacks Astilbe, Dendranthema (garden chrysanthemum), Dicentra (bleeding-heart), Echinacea (cone flower), Lupinus (lupine), Nepeta (catnip), Ocimum (basil), and Sedum. Verticillium wilt often attacks Aconitum (Monkshood), Dahlia, Liatris (gayfeather), Paeonia (peony), Papaver (poppy),

Phlox, Rudbeckia (black-eyed-Susan), and Salvia. Phytophthora often attacks Euphorbia (Spurge), Lavendula (lavender), Sedum, and Vinca.

Management: These fungi remain in the soil for many years. Once one of these diseases appears in a particular growing area, you must not plant the susceptible plant or take other cultural measures to reduce future losses. For Fusarium, which is usually highly host specific, the control can be a simple rotation away from the plant that was damaged. Verticillium has a broader host range and so presents a more difficult problem in selecting "non-susceptible" plants for rotation. Phytophthora is so strongly influenced by drainage that often construction of raised beds and incorporation of organic soil amendments to improve soil drainage will reduce disease and permit replanting with a susceptible crop. Black Spot of Roses Black spot is the most important fungal disease of roses worldwide. The initial symptoms start as feathery edged, black spots on lower leaves. As theses spots enlarge the leaves turn yellow and drop off. The disease will continue up the stems until the entire plant may become defoliated. Stem lesions are less obvious, but start as dark irregular blotches that eventually become blistered. Stem lesions are the most important source of fungal spores for initiation of the infection cycle next season. The disease is caused by the fungal pathogen Diplocarpon rosae (imperfect stage: Marssonina rosae). Leaves are most susceptible when young and must usually be moist overnight before infection can occur. The disease can be spread by rain, dew, irrigation, people, insects and transport of infected plants. The fungus cannot live in the soil or last on pruning tools for longer than a month. Black spot spores can survive in fallen leaves and stem lesions over the winter, and will remain active year round on the plant in mild climates.

Black Spot Management: Sanitation is critical for black spot management. Removal of fallen leaves and pruning infected canes will dramatically slow initial spring infections. Good air circulation will reduce the incidence of black spot by promotion of faster drying of leaf surfaces. Restrict irrigation during cloudy humid weather. Rose cultivars resistant to black spot are increasingly more available, but resistance can be regionally variable. Most people will need to use labeled fungicide sprays every 7-14 days as the first leaves emerge in the spring through the fall for adequate control of this disease.

For monthly plant disease updates visit the new plant disease section of our website.

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Those little blood-suckers are back! Mosquitoes by Mary Kay Malinoski , Extension Special ist, Entomology

The wet spring has been a boon to mosquitoes providing lots of places to breed. Mosquitoes are annoying to most people because of their biting. They are also very important as carriers of diseases. Believe it or not there are 59 species of mosquitoes in Maryland occupying many different habitats from the salt marshes to the mountains. They are 1/8 to 3/8 of an inch long, gray to dark, some marked with white, silver, green or iridescent blue scales. They have 2 wings and a long beak or proboscis. Females feed on blood and nectar, while males only feed on nectar. A blood meal by the female is necessary to produce eggs.

Mosquitoes breed in almost any aquatic situation such as ponds, marshes, woodland pools, ditches, water in tree holes, old tires or anything that will hold water. The larvae of mosquitoes are aquatic and feed on small aquatic organisms and or organic debris.

Mosquito larva Asian tiger mosquito Biting activity of mosquitoes varies with the species. Asian tiger mosquitoes feed during the day and close to the ground. They prefer to feed around the ankles and knees, but will bite any exposed skin. Most Asian tiger mosquito adults are found within a few hundred yards of their breeding container. To keep mosquitoes out of a home, make sure screens are tight and keep any containers that hold water emptied often. Water in bird baths should be replaced daily if possible. Many people use corrugated drain pipe attached to downspouts to help move water away from their homes. The corrugations hold water and are a prime place for tiger mosquitoes to breed. To avoid the problem, use a smooth drain pipe or securely attach the corrugated drain pipe to the downspout and cover the open end with a piece of pantyhose secured with a rubber band. This will keep adult females out of the drain pipe. There are many options for controlling mosquitoes in ponds and marshes. These include the use of predatory fish and biological insecticides. Here are some additional sources of information on mosquitoes: Maryland Department of Agriculture’s Main Mosquito Page, and Maryland Department of Agriculture’s Asian Tiger Mosquito Page.

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Plant Some Tropical Water Lilies by Raymond Bosmans, Professor Emeritus, U. of MD

Why not enhance your backyard pond with the dazzling beauty of a tropical water lily or two? Tropical water lilies come in brilliant colors like vibrant reds, intense blues and violets, creamy whites, and glowing yellows. Most tropical water lily blossoms are large, up to 8 inches across, and held high out of the water with exceptional fragrance reminding one of a fresh cut pineapple or a sweet tropical fruit punch. Unlike hardy water lilies, that tend to have a set period of bloom, tropical lilies will bloom continuously from their first blossoms until they are killed by frost. There are day blooming and night blooming types of tropical lilies. The night bloomers open around 4:00 p.m. and close the following day around noon - perfect for the busy working person! Some tropicals also have attractive foliage mottled with dark red or brown. It is best to consider tropical lilies as annual plants because they are rarely successfully over-wintered indoors. Simply allow them to die in the fall and order new ones the next year.

Tropical water lilies are native to Africa and South America. They are grown in the southern United States and shipped to plant dealers at the correct time for planting - June in Maryland. Planting them too early, when the water is too cold, will result in them growing poorly or dying.

Tropical water lilies grow from a crown, not from a rhizome as with the hardy lillies, and therefore do not require as large a container as the hardies. Plant them in heavy garden soil; they do not need to be amended with peat moss or other organic matter which tends to float out of the pots. Fertilize with the water lily fertilizer tablets commonly found where water lilies and pond supplies are sold. For the best growth and bloom, insert more tablets through the season following the label directions. The best flowering is attained when grown with a minimum of 5 hours of direct sunlight. However many tropical lilies will bloom well in the shade. This is another plus for growing tropicals. Water lilies are available from specialized aquatic nurseries, several local nurseries and garden centers, and they can be ordered on-line. Here is a list of some commonly available tropical water lilies: Pink and Red blossoms Emily Grant Hutchings night bloomer, very dark pink blossoms

Red Flare night bloomer, very deep red

Texas Shell Pink night bloomer, soft pink blossom

Antares very dark red blossoms

'Emily Grant Hutchings' 'Dauben'

Pink Pearl a semi-double soft pink blossom

Shirley Bryne a very long season bloomer with cup shaped pink blossoms

Ruby Red a deep pink blossom, compact growth

Blue and Violet blossoms Woods Blue Goddess medium blue blossoms, a large plant

Tina blossoms have varying shades of purple

Star of Siam deep blue blossoms, compact, attractive mottled foliage

King of Siam dark, double flowered blossoms, leaves are very compact

Panama Pacific deep purple blossoms that bloom high out of the water

Lindsey Woods deep purple blossoms

Rhonda Kay semi-double purple flowers held very high out of the water

Mrs. Martin E. Randig purple with yellow centered blossoms

Blue Capensis blossoms are light blue with a touch of yellow center

Dauben a small plant with a pale purple blossom with a yellow center

White and Yellow blossoms Green Smoke blossoms are a greenish yellow, the ends of petals are tinted blue

Woods White Knight compact habit of growth, pure white blossoms

Eldorado large yellow blossoms, attractive speckled foliage

White Delight a large plant, with many large blossoms

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Ask the Experts! by Debbie Ricigliano, Certi f ied Professional Horticulturalist

Question: Since the weather has turned hot and humid I have noticed brown areas in my tall fescue lawn. They started as small circular patches and are now spreading throughout my yard. What can I do to stop this from happening? Answer: Tall fescue is the recommended species of turfgrass for Maryland even though it is susceptible to brown patch. Spring fertilized lawns and lawns that are watered on a regular basis are the most susceptible. High temperatures and humid nights encourage the disease. When the weather becomes cooler and less humid, the disease process will stop. Homeowners are advised to tolerate some brown patch damage. Fungicide sprays are not recommended. This disease does not kill the growing point of the grass plant and with proper cultural practices the lawn will recover in the late summer/early fall. Severely damaged lawns will need to be reseeded at that time. Read more about brown patch on the plant diagnostic section of the HGIC website.

Question: My Black-eyed Susans are breaking out in these black spots. Some seem to have a raised pimple in the leaf surrounded by a very black area. Others just have black spots on the leaves. The leaves die making the plants look unattractive. Cutting off the spotted leaves as soon as I see them seems to help a little. What is the problem?

Answer: Rudbeckias are low maintenance perennials, but are susceptible to two leaf spot diseases, Septoria and angular leaf spot. The symptoms can look very similar. Prevention is the key in managing both diseases. Cut back the plants at the end of the growing season to reduce overwintering fungal spores, avoid

overhead watering, prune or divide plants to increase air circulation in the bed, and keep mulch to a bare minimum around the plants. Copper fungicides can be used when the leaves emerge in the spring to help prevent a return of the disease. Refer to our publication HG 94 IPM Series: Annuals and Perennials found on our website, www.hgic.umd.edu

Septoria on Rudbeckias

Photos courtesy of Janna Beckerman, Plant Pathologist, University of Minnesota Extension

Question: We just noticed today a few 1" to 1-1/2" long yellow-jacket-looking wasps that are removing the bark from a mature lilac bush. They don't appear to be consuming the bark, but I see small "saw-dust" piles on the leaves below the damaged areas. The bark is being stripped in circular patterns that nearly girdle the stem. What are they and will they kill my shrub?

Answer: This is the work of the European hornet. They are social insects that live in nests. European hornets strip the bark off branches of lilacs and birch trees for nest building. Their nests are covered with a brown envelope made from cellulose derived from wood. With the cold weather, the entire colony will die off with the exception of the queen. They are not aggressive, but will deliver a painful sting if their nesting site is disturbed. There are no insecticides registered for controlling this problem on the lilacs. Prune damaged stems back to the ground. This type of damage usually does not kill the shrub.

European hornet

Question: Recently I noticed the yellow blossoms are dropping off my tomato plants. Is there something lacking in the soil that is causing this?

Answer: Tomato plants produce dozens of blossoms and it's not uncommon for some to fall off before producing fruit. Environmental stress (e.g. temperatures above 90 degrees F) can cause blossom drop. Wet weather can encourage Botrytis, a transitory fungal disease, which infects flower stems causing blossom drop. Blossom drop will also occur on plants that are given too much nitrogen

fertilizer. To diagnose tomato problems refer to our tomato publication, HG 56 IPM Series: Tomatoes. And also look at the ‘plant diagnostic’ section of our website under vegetables for additional information.

Grow It Eat It Update by Maria Malloy, Business Manager, Cert if ied Professional Horticulturalist

How many Maryland Food Gardeners are in the network now? As of July 16, there are 2,222 gardeners growing food in 1,124 gardens. We've added a field to the on-line form for you to record the number of people involved in your food garden. If you haven't already done so, take a minute to e-mail grow.eat@gmail.com and tell us the number of gardeners in your garden. Check out the count of Maryland Gardeners on the GIEI home page for weekly updates. Congratulations! Donnisha Sanders of Baltimore won a Maryland Salad Box™ kit for May 2009. Donnisha took a Grow It Eat It basic vegetable gardening class and is a first time food gardener. Our June winner, Shiva Arati, is from Catonsville. Shiva is also a first time food gardener. As a first time gardener, Shiva is growing food in containers. Will you be the next winner of a Maryland Salad Box™? To enter, join the GIEI network! We will be giving away a Maryland Salad Box™ kit each month from July through October. Click on this map to go to the on-line form.

What’s new? Don’t miss the very latest news in the Grow It Eat It community. Subscribe to the Grow It Eat It Blog and visit us on Facebook and share these sites with your friends. (Facebook members - from your homepage, search for Grow it Eat it and then "become a fan".) We’re always working on new features to bring you the latest gardening information. You can comment on a blog post, contribute or start a discussion topic on Facebook, and upload and share your garden pictures.

Grow It Eat It t-shirts are now available! Support the program by purchasing a t-shirt! These 100% cotton tees are available in sizes small - xxlarge for $13.00 each (plus shipping). Click on the shirt for more information.

Got questions? In Maryland, call toll free 1-800-342-2507, 8am – 1pm, Monday – Friday. Speak with a Certified Professional Horticulturist – and get YOUR questions answered in a one-on-one consultation with a real person – not an automated system. Outside Maryland call 1-410-531-1757.

What’s in the works? We’re working on upgrading the Grow It Eat It map showing the Maryland Food Gardeners in the network. It will have lots of new features, including the ability to upload a picture of your garden. Don’t worry though, we’ll make sure your actual address is not made public.

Two Broadcast Journalism students from UM are working with us this summer to produce videos. We envision a video library with a variety of informative gardening topics. Check out the first series of videos on Native Snakes and Turtles of Maryland on YouTube and search for UMDHGIC. Yes, that is Ray Bosmans with his snakes and turtles! We will also have a button on the websites to take you directly to the video library.

Still want to take a GIEI class? Classes are still available this summer and more are on tap for the fall. Visit growit.umd.edu and click on Classes to see what’s scheduled in your county.

Save the Date for our Annual Open House - Saturday, October 10th – 10 AM – 3 PM

HGIC Tips Calendars for July and August Monthly calendar tips are posted on the Home and Garden Website www.hgic.umd.edu, scroll to the bottom of the homepage. Thank you for subscribing to Home and Garden News. Our certified professional horticulturalists are available Monday - Friday, 8 AM - 1 PM to answer your questions. Call 800-342-2507 (in-state) or 410-531-1757 (out-of-state). Please visit us on the web at www.hgic.umd.edu. If you wish to be removed from this mailing list, please e-mail jljacobs@umd.edu.

©2009 University of Maryland College of Agriculture & Natural Resources The College of Agriculture and Natural Resources’ three units—Academic Programs, the Agricultural Experiment Station, and Maryland Cooperative Extension—work in concert to educate students and citizens about critical issues and to solve problems in agriculture, food systems, and the environment. The college is an equal opportunity employer and provides equal access programs.