james barone racing aftermarket parts and accessories … 2016 and up skyactiv ma… · james...

Copyright © 2015 James Barone Racing LLC. Any unauthorized reproduction or publication of this document is a strictly prohibited without the written consent from James Barone Racing.

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James Barone Racing Aftermarket Parts and Accessories

2016 & up MAZDA Miata oil catch can Installation instructions

Tooling: Jack and at least one jack stand Ratchet wrench Various extensions 8mm 10mm, 11mm sockets 11mm and 14mm wrenches Flat head screw driver Regular and needle nose pliers

Parts List:

1, oil catch can 101” of 3/8” reinforced hose – (one 65” piece and one 36” piece) 1, 90 mounting bracket 1, Vibration isolating pipe clamp adaptor 2, ¼”-20 x 1/2" bolts 2, ¼”-20 lock nuts 1, 3/8 x ½” bolt 1, 3/8” lock washer 1, drain valve 20” 5/8” reinforced hose (drain hose) 7, Stainless hose clamps (4 small 3 large) 4 zip ties

Estimated time to complete the job is 2.5 hours. Give yourself plenty of time to complete the job. We have broken the instructions out into numerous steps. Do not be discouraged. The job is not that hard and although it appears to be a lot of work, it’s not. Take your time, enjoy yourself and the time you spend working on your car. Invite your friends over to join in on fun and lend a hand.

Read and understand the instructions thoroughly before beginning. Now let’s get started!


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1. Assemble the mounting bracket onto your new JBR oil catch can. Using an 11mm socket and

11mm wrench, install the bracket using the two ¼-20 bolts and nuts supplied.

2. Attach the drain hose to the catch can and valve to the hose. Direction of the valve does not

matter. Secure the hose to the catch can and to the valve using the 2 stainless hose clamps

supplied with your kit.

You may choose to locate the valve anywhere you like on the hose and an extra clamp is

included with your kit should you prefer to cut it in and locate it in a location that’s

more to your liking. For this application we found that mounting the valve on the end

will work best for draining at each oil change.


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3. Mount the vibration isolating pipe clamp onto the heater line located on the passenger side of the engine. Use an 11mm socket to tighten.

4. Feed the drain hose down so it sits beside the oil filter. Then, mount the catch can to the pipe clamp using the 3/8” bolt and lock washer. Tighten with a 14mm socket and 14mm wrench.

5. Remove the negative battery terminal using a 10mm socket.


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6. Next, remove the lead connected to the MAF sensor by depressing the tab at the rear of the connector and pulling the connector towards the driver’s side of the car. Loosen the hose clamp at the air box using a 10mm socket.

7. Loosen the hose clamp at the throttle body and the bolt securing the sound enhancer (if equipped) using a 10mm socket.

8. Remove the hose connected to the valve cover. 9. Remove and pivot the intake hose and sound enhancer out of the way towards the driver’s side

of the engine compartment.


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10. Pull up on each end of the fuel rail cover and remove.

11. Using a pair of needle nose pliers, squeeze and disconnect the clips holding the wiring harness to the top of the intake manifold. There is one at the front and one at the rear of the engine.


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12. Next remove the lead connected to the vacuum solenoid by depressing the tab at the rear of the connector and pulling the connector towards the rear of the car.

13. Using an 8mm socket remove the nut securing the vacuum solenoid to the intake manifold. Wiggle the solenoid and raise it up out of the manifold


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14. Using your finger nails, carefully spread the tabs furthest from the driver’s side and pull up on the yellow clip. The clip is designed to stay on the line. Some fuel may drip. Place a rag below the connection.

15. Using an 8mm socket, remove the bolt securing the fuel line to the intake manifold.


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16. Using a pair of pliers, squeeze the spring clip and slide it back towards the driver’s side. Twist to loosen and carefully remove the vacuum hose. DO NOT attempt to remove it until it twists loose.

Tie back the fuel line and vacuum lines removed in steps 14 and 15 to keep them out of the way.

17. Using a pair of pliers, squeeze the spring clamp, slide it back and remove the vacuum hose found

just off center, close to the cowl on the driver’s side. Twist to loosen and then remove.


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18. Raise the front of the vehicle and place jack stands on either side to support the vehicle.

Refer to you vehicles owner’s manual for proper jack placement and supporting procedures. Never

get under a vehicle without the proper support in place.

19. Remove the drivers side wheel and using a flat head screw driver carefully remove the head of

the plastic push type retainer. The cover then can be removed by pulling towards the front of

the vehicle.

20. Looking in through the area where the cover was removed in the previous step you will see a

pair of wire looms that are secured to the bottom of the intake manifold. With a little effort you

will be able tug on the clip and pop it off of the manifold.


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21. Now, using a 10mm socket remove the bolt that secures the bottom support of the intake

manifold.

22. Now, remove the five 10mm bolts that secure the intake manifold to the head. The next three

pictures show their locations. Do not attempt to remove the manifold yet.


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23. Carefully separate the manifold from the engine and look for another wiring harness in the

front, above the alternator, held by two of the same clips removed in steps 11 and 20.

NOTE Removing the wiring harness in the previous step will now allow you to move the

manifold forward and pivot it up a bit. Do not try to remove it yet. There are a few more

connections at the rear of the manifold. These can be seen from below. We chose to use pictures

with the manifold out of the car to demonstrate where they are located and how to remove them.

24. Disconnect the Map sensor by squeezing the tab at the rear of the connector then pull it off the

connector is similar to the connector removed from the MAF sensor in step 6.

It’s easier to push the connector on, depress the tab then pull it off.

25. Pull the PCV hose off the port on the intake manifold.

26. Remove the two clips securing the wiring harness.

The order the three previous steps are performed in is not important.

MAP Sensor

Wiring Harness clips


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27. Now lift the manifold up in the front and begin to carefully wiggle it out from the engine bay.

The hard part is over. Now would be a good time to take a break.

Now it’s time to route the hoses from the PCV and intake manifold to the catch can.

28. If the PCV hose is still attached to the PCV valve, remove it. Rotate the outlet of the valve so it

points towards the front of the vehicle.


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29. Attach and secure the 36” piece of hose to the PCV with one of the small hose clamp provided

using a flat head screw driver.

30. Thos hose leading from the PCV is to be routed behind the fuel rail towards the front of the

vehicle.

Fuel Rail


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31. Snake the hose from the PCV behind the wiring harness, towards the front of the vehicle.

32. Now attach the 65” piece of hose to the inlet port on the intake manifold and secure with a

small clamp and flat head screw driver. The hose may be difficult to slip on. If need be, expand

the end a bit with a pair of needle nose pliers and use a squirt of WD-40 to slip it on.

PCV hose

Fuel rail hard line

Front


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33. Route the hose over the top of the intake manifold for the time being.

34. Let’s now begin re-installing the manifold into the car. With the hose from the inlet on the

manifold running over the top of towards the front of the vehicle begin working it back in.

Front


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35. With the manifold almost in place, reconnect the MAP sensor and re-attach the clips securing

the wiring harness removed in steps 24 and 26.

36. Reconnect the two clips securing the wiring harness to the front of the intake manifold removed

in step 23.

37. Fit the manifold to the engine. You’ll feel it align and fall in to place. Loosely install the 5 bolts

removed in step 22.

38. Install and tighten to 15ft-lbs the bolt removed securing bottom support of the intake manifold

removed in step 21.

39. Tighten the 5 bolts removed in step 22 to 15-ft-lbs starting from the center and working out.

40. Route the hose from the port on the intake manifold around the driver’s side of the intake

manifold.

41. Secure the hose from the intake manifold to the wiring harness below the throttle body.


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42. The hose will now both be in front of the air filter box. Secure them to the A/C line using two

more zip ties.

43. Connect the 36” hose coming from the PCV to the bottom port on the catch can and connect the

65” hose coming from the port in the intake manifold to the top port.

You may need to trim the hoses and this can be done with a new, sharp razor knife.

You’ll want cut each of them to a length that prevent them from pushing or pulling on

the catch can keeping the catch can nice and centered in position.

Hose from PCV

Hose to

Manifold

Centered


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44. Start from the beginning of the instructions and reinstall all components previously removed.

45. Take a few minutes to check over your work, pat yourself on the back and admire your work.

Great Job!!

Congratulations!! You’ve now completed the installation of

your new JBR Oil Catch Can Kit!!

To drain your new JBR oil catch can, turn the knob on the drain valve. Drain it at each oil change

when the oil filter access panel is removed.


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SHIPPING All orders are carefully inspected and packaged prior to shipment. The recipient must inspect all shipments for

damage and report any damage to the carrier and JAMES BARONE RACING immediately. JAMES BARONE RACING is

not responsible for damage that occurs during shipping.

RETURNS: All sales are final. JAMES BARONE RACING will only except returns in the event of a manufacturer’s defect.

Defective items will be exchanged for the identical item or repaired at our discretion. Return shipping costs are the

responsibility of the purchaser. An RMA # (Return to Manufacturer Authorization Number) must accompany all

returns. In rare cases when a return is accepted, a 20% restocking fee will be deducted from the refund or credit.

Shipping charges are non- refundable. No returns or exchanges will be accepted after 30 days.

DISCLAIMERS: Failure to carefully follow the installation instructions for your JAMES BARONE RACING product could result in

significant property damage, personal injury, injury to others or even death. Please take the time to read and

thoroughly understand the instructions prior to installation. The instructions are as accurate as possible and may

vary slightly from model year to model year. Professional installation is recommended.

Neither JAMES BARONE RACING nor any of its employees, officers, directors, or shareholders will accept

responsibility for improper use or installation of our products. JAME BARONE RACING is not responsible for the

misuse, incorrect installation, or failure of any product we sell. Under no circumstances, including but not limited

to negligence, will JAMES BARONE RACING be liable for special or consequential damages that result from the use

or inability to use our products. JAMES BARONE RACING does not assume responsibility for any damage to the

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RESPONSIBLY.

WARRANTY: All JAMES BARONE RACING products carry a lifetime warranty to the original purchaser. Warranty is non-

transferable. Warranty does not cover damage or failure caused by abuse, misuse, faulty installation or repairs not

conducted by JAMES BARONE RACING. JAMES BARONE RACING is not liable for consequential damages arising

from the use of our products or any indirect damages resulting in the loss of property, revenue or costs for towing,

removal, installation, or re-installation. To receive warranty service you must contact JAMES BARONE RACING to

receive an RMA # (Return to Manufacturer Authorization Number) at which time you will be provided with

instructions for returning the faulty product

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james barone racing aftermarket parts and accessories … 2016 and up skyactiv ma… · james...

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