installation guide for your akurum · pdf fileinstallation guide for your akurum kitchen...

INSTALLATION GUIDE FOR YOUR

AKURUM KITCHEN

© Inter IKEA Systems B.V. 2004

It’s time to discover another major advantage ofinvesting in an IKEA kitchen—it’s a lot easierthan you might think to assemble and install ityourself.

We’ve already done most of the hard work foryou so that installation will be as simple as pos-sible. Plus, intelligent design makes it easy toadjust cabinets, doors and drawers for a perfectend result.

Before you beginThis guide and corresponding posters will takeyou through the preparation and installationprocess step-by-step. The posters provide ahands-free way to reference detailed installationinstructions while you work. We have also creat-ed a Kitchen Installation video, available at anyIKEA store location, to give you an overview ofthe installation process.

We encourage you to read both the guide andposters in their entirety before getting started.When you’re ready to begin a particular step,be sure to hang the corresponding poster on anearby wall.

Have fun!You’re only seven steps away from a brand newkitchen. As you’ll quickly realize, it’s one of themost rewarding projects you’ll ever do – withresults you’re sure to enjoy for years to come!

Seven steps to a brandnew kitchen

2


The tools you’ll need

3

Hammer

AwlPhillips screwdriver Slotted screwdriver

Lev

el (

4 fo

ot)

Carpenter´s rule or measuring tape

Rasp/File

Electric drill- drill holes for handles,

wall fittings etc.- assemble and install cabinets

Jig-saw - for sawing holes forthe sink and the extractor fan

Clamps

Rig

ht

angl

e sq

uar

e

FIXA 35 mm hole cutter- to drill extra holes forthe tap in the sink(if necessary)

Mitre box with saw- to ensure that you cutthe cornices at exactly the right angle

Pencil

Fine-toothed handsaw - for sawing worktops, plinths etc.

Adjustable wrench - to fasten wallcabinets to the suspension rail, andfor cutting holes with the FIXA tool.

© Inter IKEA Systems B.V. 2004 4

A little preparation can save a lot of time lateron—especially when it comes to installing yourkitchen.

Removing the old kitchenBefore removing old cabinets and countertops,switch off the electricity, gas and water. Removebase cabinets first, so that you can easily get tothe wall cabinets.

Checking for uneven spotsFlat, level surfaces are the best start for a goodinstallation. Take the time now to locate and cor-rect uneven walls and floors. The first threepoints on the step 3 poster show how to check. Ifmajor problems need to be fixed,you may want to hire a professional.

Marking cabinet positionMeasure and draw in the postion of your cabi-nets on the wall so you can be sure everythingfits.

Mapping out utilitiesIf you’re re-routing water or gas pipes or makingchanges to electrical outlets, hire qualified spe-cialists. They will do a safe and professional job.

Preparing the walls and floorWith the room empty, now is the time to primewalls, put on a first coat of paint, and/or installnew flooring. Keep in mind, new flooring is easi-er to install now, but be sure to protect the sur-face until the kitchen is finished. The second coatof paint and any wallpapering should be com-pleted after the cabinets are installed.

Step 1. Prepareyour kitchen

© Inter IKEA Systems B.V. 2004 5

Being well-organized makes any job easier. Afteryour kitchen is delivered, double check the pack-ages you received against the packing list tomake sure everything is there. Then, sort thepackages into cabinet groups according to theirlabels, preferably in a room other than thekitchen.

Using the right fixing hardwarePlaster, brick or drywall? Because there aremany different types of wall, fixing hardware isnot supplied with your cabinets. Most hardwarestores stock appropriate fixing screws and heavyduty anchors for each type of wall.

Finding a safe spot for the countertop:If you purchased a solid wood countertop fromIKEA, be sure to store it in or near the kitchen.This allows it to adjust to room temperature.

Assembling wall cabinetsFollow the instructions included in each packageto assemble the wall cabinets, since you’ll mostlikely be installing these first. Don’t put ondoors, shelves, knobs or handles just yet.

Assembling base and high cabinetsNext, assemble base cabinets, drawers and highcabinets, following the enclosed instructions.Hint: it’s easier to screw the runners for drawersor pull-out baskets on the inside walls of thebase and high cabinets before assembling thecabinets themselves.

Place the cabinets in orderArrange the cabinets into the order in which youwill be installing them so that you can quicklyfind the right cabinet when you need it.

Step 2. Get organized


Note: If your kitchen layout doesn’t include wallcabinets, please skip to Step 4.

This is where the fun really begins.In most kitchens, it is best to begin the installa-tion with the wall cabinets. This way there won’tbe any base cabinets to work around and you canmore easily use a step-ladder.

In some cases, depending on the layout, appli-ances and countertops, it may be better to beginwith the base cabinets. To start with wall cabi-nets, hang the step 3 poster on the wall. It willtake you through each step for installing thewall cabinets, including:• Finding wall studs• Position the suspension rail• Mounting the wall cabinets• Levelling the wall cabinets• Securing the wall cabinets

Making the job easier on yourselfKeep in mind, hanging wall cabinets is easiest todo with a partner and a sturdy step ladder.Always start with a corner cabinet and workyour way out.Once you’ve completed all the steps on theposter, you’re ready to install base and high cabinets.

Step 3. Hang the wall cabinets

4. Mark the level lines for the wall

cabinets and suspension rail

Using the high point on the floor that

you marked in Step 1, measure up the

wall 83 7/8” for the top of 30” wall cabinets

or 92 5/8” for 39” wall cabinets. Next,

locate the bottom of the suspension rail

by measuring down 2 1/2” (3” for horizon-

tal cabinets) from the first mark. Then

draw level lines on the wall.

1. Checking for uneven spots

Start by checking the walls visually

and running a 4 foot level along the

surface. Mark any irregularities, such

as bows and high spots. If major prob-

lems need to be fixed, you may want

to hire a professional. It may also be

necessary to use shims when mount-

ing the cabinets.10. Level and secure the cabinet

Fit the small metal plate over the bolt,

thread the nut loosely in place. Level

the cabinet, using shims at the bottom

edge if necessary. With your wrench,

loosely secure the cabinet hardware.

Do not tighten; this will allow you to

make adjustments once all of the cabi-

nets are installed.

9. Hang the corner cabinet

Starting with the corner cabinet, align

one piece of the suspension rail hard-

ware with the predrilled hole at the top

of the cabinet. Position the second hole

and its hardware. Note: If you don’t

have a corner cabinet, install a cabinet

that fits against both the back and side

walls, allowing the filler space shown

on your plan.

8. Secure the suspension rail

Secure the suspension rail to the studs,

aligning the bottom edge of the rail

with the level line marked on the wall.

If you found a bow in the wall of more

than 1/4” in Step 1, shim the suspension

rail until it is straight. Should the end

of the rail fall between studs, secure it

to the wall with a heavy duty anchor.7. Insert suspension rail hardware

Slide the suspension rail hardware into

the suspension rail before putting it up.

You’ll need two pieces per wall cabinet.

(Be sure to position one piece on each

side of the corner cabinet if your plan

calls for one.) You may find it helpful to

tape the hardware into place until the

rail goes up.

6. Cut the suspension rail

Measure the length of the wall cabinets

to be installed along one wall. Include

the length of wall behind a high cabinet

only if the high cabinet is 12” deep.

Subtract 1/4” from the overall measure-

ment. (This will leave 1/8” of space at

either end of the rail.) Use your hack

saw to cut the suspension rail to this

length.

Note: If you will be installing a high

cabinet, final adjustments and tight-

ening of the mounting hardware

should be done after the high cabi-

net is installed to ensure that every-

thing is level.

14. Tighten the mounting screws

When all wall cabinets have been

mounted, aligned and connected, and

final adjustments have been made,

tighten all of the mounting hardware.

Slide the plastic covers in place over

the metal corner bracket.13. Fasten cabinets together

Place the connection screws enclosed

with the cabinet frames into the holes

and tighten. Remove the clamps.

Continue fastening the remaining cabi-

nets together in the same way.

12. Drill through cabinet walls

You’ll find predrilled holes on the inside

of each cabinet. For all doors except

ULRIKSDAL use a 3/16" drill bit to drill

through the fourth holes from the top

and bottom edges. (The second and

third holes are for the door hinges.) For

ULRIKSDAL door, drill through the

second holes from the top and bottom

edges. (The hinges for ULRIKSDAL fit

into the third and fourth holes from the

top/bottom.)

11. Hang the remaining

wall cabinets

Hang the rest of the cabinets in the

same way, aligning each with the previ-

ous one. Use your clamps to temporarily

hold adjacent cabinets into position. To

avoid marring the surface of your cabi-

nets, use a small scrap of wood between

the clamp and the cabinet.


When you’ve completed Step 3, all of the wall cabinets will be in place.

© Inter IKEA

Systems B.V. 2004.

Hang these

instructions on

the wall so you’ll

have your

hands free

AKURUM wall cabinets are mounted

using a sturdy steel suspension rail. This

ensures a strong installation, and makes

it easier to hang and level the cabinets.

If you haven’t already done so in Step 1,

measure and draw the position of the cab-

inets on the wall to ensure that everything

will fit.Also be sure you’ve marked uneven

and high spots on the wall.

5. Finding the studs in drywall

At the marked suspension rail line, tap

the wall from the corner out (or use a

stud-finder) to check for the first stud.

Mark its position. While subsequent

studs are usually at 16” intervals, they

may be at 12” or 24” intervals in some

kitchens. Mark the location of each stud

along the line. This will show you where

to attach the suspension rail to the wall.

2. Next

Check the floor to find its high point.

The level will help you here as well.

Check all areas where you’ll be

installing base or high cabinets, and

mark the high and low points on the

wall.

3. Finally

Fit a combination square or right

angled wood panel into each corner,

and see if there are any gaps between

it and the wall. If the gap is more than

1/4”, call your IKEA expert for assis-

tance. In a “U” shaped kitchen, meas-

ure between opposite walls at a num-

ber of spots to see if they are parallel.

Hang theposter on the wall for Step 3

6


Note: Legs can be shared by two

cabinets, see the instructions. Place the

corner cabinet against the wall so that

its back edge is resting on the support

board. Through the holes at the top

back corners of the cabinet, mark where

to drill for the fixing screw. Set the cab-

inet aside. Note: If there´s no corner

cabinet, install the cabinet that will fit

against the back and side walls,

allowing the filler space shown on your

plan.

3. Secure the support board

Align the top edge of the support board

with the level line you marked at 4 5/16”.

Secure it to the studs. Should the end of

the support board fall between studs,

secure it to the wall with a heavy-duty

anchor.

2. Cut base cabinet support boards

Measure the length of the base and

high cabinets to be installed. Do not

include the wall space behind appli-

ances. Cut the base cabinet support

board into measured lengths. Cut the

board 1 1/2” shorter where a side toekick

is planned.

9. Drill through the cabinet walls

For all doors except ULRIKSDAL use a

3/16" drill bit to drill through the fourth

holes from the top and bottom edges.

For ULRIKSDAL door, drill through the

second holes from the top/bottom. When

installing a drawer cabinet, drill

through the fifth hole from the top.

8. Install the next base cabinet

Mark, drill, and insert the screws for

the next cabinet. Lift the cabinet into

place, carefully aligning it with the

previous cabinet and securing them

together with a clamp.

7. Secure the cabinet to the wall

Tighten the screws, but not completely.

Assure that the cabinet is level front-to-

back and side-to-side. Hint: Installing

the LAZY SUSAN is easier now than

after the countertops are in place.

6. Install the corner cabinet

Lift the corner cabinet back into place

and adjust the legs so that it stands

level.

5. Drill, anchor and screw

Using the appropriate drill bit and type

of screw for your wall material, drill

holes at the spots you’ve marked. If

there’s no stud, insert a heavy-duty

anchor then the screw and tighten

halfway.

12. Tighten all the screws

When all base cabinets have been

mounted and aligned, tighten all screws

into the wall. Now the high cabinet is

in place, make the final adjustments to

the wall cabinets and tighten all the

screws.

11. Install the high cabinet

The high cabinet should be installed

the same way you installed the base

cabinets. If you´re using a cover panel

on one side, mount this before install-

ing the cabinet using the enclosed

instructions

10. Fasten cabinets together

Place the connection screws enclosed

with the cabinet frames into the holes

and tighten. Continue in this fashion

with the remaining base cabinets

Step 4. Install the base and high cabinets

Hang theseinstructions on the wall so you’ll have your hands free

When you’ve completed Step 4, all of the cabinet frames will be in place.

18. The finishing touch

Dab your finger into a 3-in-1 oil to pre-

vent the caulk from sticking, then run

your finger along the caulk, forcing it

into the crevice. Remove the tape for an

airtight seal and a straight edge.

17. Prepare the area to be caulked

To produce an airtight seal between the

wall and the cabinet, you’ll need to

caulk around the filler pieces. Choose a

well made latex brand (it doesn’t need

to be waterproof.) Tape alongside the

area to be caulked. Apply a bead of

caulk into the crevice.

15. Install filler pieces

Put the filler piece in place with the cut

edge against the wall. Attach by drilling

a screw through the predrilled holes

from the inside of the cabinet. Install

other filler pieces in the same way.

When you’ve finished installing all

filler pieces, go to picture 17.

Cut the template material so that it’s

the same height as the cabinet. Hold it

in place where the filler will be

installed. Open the compass a couple of

inches and place the point against the

wall. Holding the compass horizontal

and level, follow the line of the wall so

that the pencil traces a clear line on the

template. To cut the template to the cor-

rect width, measure the distance from

the farthest point on the wall to the cab-

inet. Find the same point on the tem-

plate and mark it. Draw a straight line

from this point to the top and bottom of

the template to form the flat edge that

will fit against the cabinet. Cut the tem-

plate and check that it fits, then trace

the shape onto the fller and follow the

cutting directions in picture 14.

16. If the wall is uneven

If the wall is not level and flat, the filler

must be cut to conform to the wall’s

shape. To do this, you’ll need to make a

template for tracing the wall’s shape

onto the filler. A piece of thin plywood or

heavy cardboard makes a suitable tem-

plate. You’ll also need a measuring tape,

pencil and compass.

© Inter IKEA

Systems B.V. 2004.

Next, it’s time for the base and high

cabinets. Before you begin, note all plumb-

ing, power sources and other utilities.

Measure these locations carefully, and,

using a hole saw, cut the appropriate

openings before each cabinet is installed.

In the following steps, you’ll install

the legs at the front of the cabinets, and

secure a cabinet support board to the wall.

This is a length of particleboard packed

together with the toe-kick panels. If you

prefer, you can use legs on the back of the

cabinets in lieu of the support board.

4. Start with the corner cabinet

Attach legs to the front edges of the

cabinets according to package instruc-

tions. If you are not using the support

board, attach back legs as well.

Always use a back leg at the end of the

run, as this makes attaching the side

toe-kick easier.

14. Cut filler piecesWith a handsaw: draw a line connecting

the top and bottom marks on the front

side of the filler, and cut it with the face

side up. Jigsaw: mark both sides of the

filler. Put masking tape over the line on

the front side to prevent chipping. Cut

it from the back side.

1. Marking the level lines

Using the high point of the floor that

you marked earlier, measure up 4 5/16”.

Use a 4 foot level to draw a line on the

wall at this height. Now measure 34 1/2”

from the same point on the floor and

draw another level line. This will help

you level the top of the base cabinets.

13. Measure filler pieces

Check the wall with your level to see if

it is even and flat. If so, measure the

distance from the wall to the cabinet

and mark this distance at the top and

bottom of the filler piece. Note: If the

wall is uneven, skip to picture 16.

The Step 4 poster will guide you through theprocess of installing base cabinets and high cabi-nets. These cabinets are designed with sturdy,adjustable legs for easy levelling on unevenfloors. This step includes:• Mounting the base cabinet wall strip• Attaching cabinet legs• Installing base cabinets• Installing a high cabinet• Levelling cabinets• Securing cabinets together• Installing filler pieces• Installing a corner lazy-susan

IMPORTANT!Before putting in any of these cabinets, be sureto measure, mark and cut openings for plumbing,power sources and other utilities.

Getting startedAs with the wall cabinets, you’ll start byinstalling the corner cabinet first. If your plandoesn’t include a corner cabinet, start with thecabinet that fits at the start of the run againstboth the back and side walls.

Step 4. Install base and high cabinets


7


Now it’s time to install the countertop and

sink. This poster details the installation

care and maintenance of our solid wood

countertops.

When measuring and sawing the solid

wood tops throughout this step, we sug-

gest placing them on sawhorses for easiest

handling. Once you’ve finished Step 5, it’s

a good idea to hire professionals to con-

nect the water, gas or electricity, and to

install the oven, dishwasher and lighting.

Using your pencil and a straight edge,

draw a “cut” line inside this line,

according to the directions that came

with your sink.

3. Saw the countertop

If you’re sawing by hand, we recom-

mend using a fine-toothed handsaw for

control. To avoid splintering the coun-

tertop, tape over the area to be cut.

If you’re using a circular saw, turn the

counter face down and clamp a

straight-edge in place to guide the saw

along the cut line. Finish the cut edge

with your file.

2. Measure the counter

Measure the counter from the end of

the base cabinet out, allowing for the

cover panel plus a 1/2” overhang. Mark

with a pencil on the finished side if

you’ll be using a handsaw and on the

underside if using a power saw.

9. Secure the countertop

Your countertop should be secured as

shown using the hardware provided.

The slotted brackets allow the coun-

terop to expand and contract normally.

Set countertops in place, allowing the

same gaps as when you measured.

Locate attachment points at regular

intervals and drill pilot holes before

securing the top.

8. Install the sink

Lift off the countertop and turn it

upside down, placing it back on your

saw horses. Install the sink according

to the sink manufacturer’s instructions.

7. Trim the cabinet top rails

Fit the countertop back into place on

the base cabinet. Check that the sink

hole is not obstructed by the top frame

rails of the base cabinet. If it is, you’ll

need to trim the rails so that the sink

will fit properly.6. Seal the sink cutout

To prevent moisture from penetrating

the countertop, apply a polyurethane

seal along the cut edges with a paint-

brush.5. Saw the sink hole

Place the countertop on sawhorses.

Drill a 1/2” hole for the jigsaw blade at

all four corners of the cut line.

Following this same cut line, saw the

hole for the sink unit.

11. Prepare wood countertop

for use

Your solid wood countertop from IKEA

was pretreated at the factory to condi-

tion and protect it until installation. To

prepare it for use, sand the surface with

a fine sandpaper and finish it with

IKEA BEHANDLA approved wood-

block oil.

10. Install the faucet

If your sink is not pre-drilled for the

faucet or other fittings, you´ll need to

cut the necessary holes in the sink.

Tape and mark a place for each of the

fittings. Drill all holes with the aid of

the FIXA tool and install the faucet and

fittings following the manufacturer´s

instructions.

Step 5. Install the countertop

When you’ve completed Step 5, the countertops and sink will be in place.

© Inter IKEA

Systems B.V. 2004.

Hang these

instructions on


have your

hands free

12. Assure long-term beauty

Sand and oil your counterop regularly

for long-term beauty and protection.

Stains and minor damage can be

removed using fine sandpaper. Wipe the

sanded surface clean and re-oil the

affected area.

1. Position the countertop

Lay the countertop on top of the base

cabinets, allowing 1/8”at the back wall,

and a smaller space against the side

wall or high cabinet. If you’re installing

tops in an “L” shape, the two sections

must meet in a butt joint. (Do not make

angle or mitre-cut joints.) These steps

allow the counter to undergo normal

expansion and contraction.

4. Mark a spot for the sink

With the countertop in place, trace the

inside of the base cabinet on the under-

side of the countertop. This helps

assure that the sink cutout will be

aligned correctly. Then, place the sink

upside down on the underside of the

countertop, positioning it correctly side

to side and front to back. Trace around

the edge of the sink with a pencil.

The base for your new kitchen is now in place.Now it’s time to turn your attention to the coun-tertops and sink. In addition to the solid woodcountertops detailed in this step, IKEA alsooffers a wide range in laminate countertops.

Solid wood countertopsThe Step 5 poster details the installation, careand maintenance of these durable solid woodcountertops.• Measuring countertop lengths• Making a corner seam• Sawing the countertop• Cutting a hole for the sink• Sealing cut edges• Installing the sink• Installing the countertop• Installing the tap

Bringing in the professionalsYour new kitchen is beginning to take shape! At this point, you’ll probably need to hire a pro-fessional to connect water, gas or electricity andto install the dishwasher, oven and lighting.



8


Now that the cabinet frames are in place, it’stime to add shelving, lighting, drawers and otheraccessories. All cabinet frames have predrilledholes for quick and easy installation of shelving,drawers and other interior accessories. This alsomakes it simple to make adjustments or addaccessories later on!

The Step 6 poster provides instructions for:• Installing cover panels• Installing lighting• Fitting shelves• Attaching knobs and handles• Installing drawers

The poster also shows an overview of the variousaccessories that can be installed.For complete details, you’ll need to follow theinstructions included in each package.

Step 6. Install shelves,drawers and more

2. Attach toe-kick edging

Cover the cut edge of the toe-

kicks with the enclosed edging

strip. Press it on with a warm

iron, then cut it to the right

length.

1. Saw toe-kicksCarefully measure and mark toe-

kicks so that they cover the open

area below your base cabinets.

Saw toe-kicks to the correct

length using a fine-toothed saw.

Step 7. Add the finishing touches

When you’ve completed Step 7, your new IKEA kitchen is ready to use!

© Inter IKEA

Systems B.V. 2004.

4. Attach light valances

Measure, cut and fit the light

valances beneath the wall cabi-

nets. Instructions for installation

and placement are included with

the valances. Remember to

attach sealing strips.6. Attach the hinge plate

Screw the door hinge base plate

into the second and third predrilled

holes at the top and bottom.

(IMPORTANT: If you choose

ULRIKSDAL door, you must screw

the hinge base plate into the third

and fourth predrilled holes.)

8. Hang the doorsSnap the hinge body onto the

base plate and adjust the door to

the correct position, using the

adjustment screws. Instructions

for doing this are included with

the hinges.

7. Fit the hinge to the door

Insert the hinge body into the

predrilled hole in the door and

press as shown. No screws are

needed.

9. Attach door handles

Select and measure the position

of the door handles. Make a

reversible wood template with

the correct drilling points so that

you can place handles in the

same position on all doors. Be

sure to check on which side the

door opens before you mark and

drill the holes. Hold a block of

wood behind each door so that

the surface doesn’t splinter when

the drill bit goes through.Congratulations!You’ve done it! Time to step back

and admire your work: a practical,

attractive kitchen full of ingenious features that

will make your life easier for years to come.

And best of all – you got more for

your money at IKEA because you

did most of the work yourself!

10. Attach protective tabs

These self-adhesive tabs will

reduce the sound when you close

cabinet doors. You’ll find them in

the package with the hinges.

Peel and stick to the upper and

lower corners of the doors or cab-

inets, opposite the hinge side.

2. Install lighting If cabinet lighting is included in

your kitchen plan, we suggest

that you install it now. Use a

qualified electrician for profes-

sional results.

5. Attach drawer fronts

Using the hardware provided,

mount each drawer front to the

drawer box through the pre-

drilled, prealigned holes. These

holes and the hardware allow

easy adjustment for perfect

drawer front alignment.

The cabinets have predrilled holes for quick and

easy installation of shelving, drawers and

interior accessories. This also makes it simple to

make adjustments or add accessories later on.

If you need to attach cover panels to the cabi-

net frames, put them on before doing anything

else, since they’re screwed on from the inside.

Step 6. Install shelves, drawers & more

When you’ve completed Step 6, all interior cabinet accessories will be in place.

Hang theseinstructions on the wall so you’ll have your hands free

It’s almost time to celebrate—you only have a few more

things left to do! But they’re important, so be sure to take

your time.Remember to install any child safety devices you’ve cho-

sen. Drawer and cabinet safety catches help you protect your

children from dangerous household chemicals and other

items that could bring them harm.

1. Install cover panels

Temporarily secure the cover

panel into place using a clamp.

Drill pilot holes through the cab-

inet frame from the inside of the

cabinets, being careful not to

drill through the cover panel.

Screw the cover panel into place.

3. Install shelvesInsert four supports per shelf

into the predrilled holes inside

each cabinet, then rest a shelf on

top of them. Think about what

you need to store, and place the

shelves to make best use of the

space.

4. Attach drawerknobs/handles

On a 6” high drawer front,

attach knobs and handles to the

drawer front before it is mount-

ed to the drawer box.

5. Install cornicesFollow the installation instruc-

tions included with the cornice.

For best results, use a miter box

saw to cut the corners of each

cornice at a 45° angle. Measure

carefully so that cornices will be

the right length.

3. Clip toe-kicks into place

Follow the directions for attach-

ing the toe-kick clips. At corners

set one clip facing up and the

other down – this allows them

both to fit on the same leg. Snap

the toe-kicks into place.

RATIONELL interior fittings for

the drawers.

GRUNDTAL accessories in stain-

less steel.

FÖRHÖJA series in clear lac-

quered solid birch/birch plywood.

UTSAGA accessories in black

lacquered steel.

RATIONELL pull out baskets –

it´s all within reach.

Just some of the great storage ideas...

NYLED accessories on an

aluminium rail.

BYGEL accessories in powder

coated steel.

The drawers glide smoothly on

sturdy self-closing runners for

years of service. To set the drawer

in the open position, slide it out

until it stops, then tilt slightly

up so it clears the stop point on

the runner. To close the drawer

tilt it up again and roll it shut. Hang theposter on the wall for Step 6

9


You’re almost there. Just a few more finishingtouches and your kitchen will be complete. Fromattaching knobs and handles to checking thealignment of doors and drawers once everythingis in place, it’s important to take your time andget these things right.

After all, it’s details like these that will makeyour kitchen look as great as it performs dayafter day, year after year!

The Step 7 poster provides instructions for:

• Attaching plinths and mouldings• Attaching light decor strips• Installing cornices• Hanging doors• Attaching knobs and handles• Attaching plastic buffers


2. Attach toe-kick edging

Cover the cut edge of the toe-

kicks with the enclosed edging

strip. Press it on with a warm

iron, then cut it to the right

length.1. Saw toe-kicks

Carefully measure and mark toe-

kicks so that they cover the open

area below your base cabinets.

Saw toe-kicks to the correct

length using a fine-toothed saw.



© Inter IKEA

Systems B.V. 2004.

4. Attach light valances

Measure, cut and fit the light

valances beneath the wall cabi-

nets. Instructions for installation

and placement are included with

the valances. Remember to

attach sealing strips.

6. Attach the hinge plate

Screw the door hinge base plate

into the second and third predrilled

holes at the top and bottom.

(IMPORTANT: If you choose

ULRIKSDAL door, you must screw

the hinge base plate into the third

and fourth predrilled holes.)

8. Hang the doors

Snap the hinge body onto the

base plate and adjust the door to

the correct position, using the

adjustment screws. Instructions

for doing this are included with

the hinges.7. Fit the hinge to the door

Insert the hinge body into the

predrilled hole in the door and

press as shown. No screws are

needed.

9. Attach door handles

Select and measure the position

of the door handles. Make a

reversible wood template with

the correct drilling points so that

you can place handles in the

same position on all doors. Be

sure to check on which side the

door opens before you mark and

drill the holes. Hold a block of

wood behind each door so that

the surface doesn’t splinter when

the drill bit goes through.

Congratulations!

You’ve done it! Time to step back

and admire your work: a practical,

attractive kitchen full of ingenious features that

will make your life easier for years to come.

And best of all – you got more for

your money at IKEA because you


10. Attach protective tabs

These self-adhesive tabs will

reduce the sound when you close

cabinet doors. You’ll find them in

the package with the hinges.

Peel and stick to the upper and

lower corners of the doors or cab-

inets, opposite the hinge side.

2. Install lighting

If cabinet lighting is included in

your kitchen plan, we suggest

that you install it now. Use a

qualified electrician for profes-

sional results.

5. Attach drawer fronts

Using the hardware provided,

mount each drawer front to the

drawer box through the pre-

drilled, prealigned holes. These

holes and the hardware allow

easy adjustment for perfect

drawer front alignment.

The cabinets have predrilled holes for quick and

easy installation of shelving, drawers and

interior accessories. This also makes it simple to

make adjustments or add accessories later on.

If you need to attach cover panels to the cabi-

net frames, put them on before doing anything

else, since they’re screwed on from the inside.



Hang these

instructions on


have your

hands free

It’s almost time to celebrate—you only have a few more

things left to do! But they’re important, so be sure to take

your time.

Remember to install any child safety devices you’ve cho-

sen. Drawer and cabinet safety catches help you protect your

children from dangerous household chemicals and other

items that could bring them harm.

1. Install cover panels

Temporarily secure the cover

panel into place using a clamp.

Drill pilot holes through the cab-

inet frame from the inside of the

cabinets, being careful not to

drill through the cover panel.

Screw the cover panel into place.

3. Install shelves

Insert four supports per shelf

into the predrilled holes inside

each cabinet, then rest a shelf on

top of them. Think about what

you need to store, and place the

shelves to make best use of the

space.

4. Attach drawer

knobs/handles

On a 6” high drawer front,

attach knobs and handles to the

drawer front before it is mount-

ed to the drawer box.

5. Install cornices

Follow the installation instruc-

tions included with the cornice.

For best results, use a miter box

saw to cut the corners of each

cornice at a 45° angle. Measure

carefully so that cornices will be

the right length.

3. Clip toe-kicks into place

Follow the directions for attach-

ing the toe-kick clips. At corners

set one clip facing up and the

other down – this allows them

both to fit on the same leg. Snap

the toe-kicks into place.

RATIONELL interior fittings for

the drawers.

GRUNDTAL accessories in stain-

less steel.

FÖRHÖJA series in clear lac-

quered solid birch/birch plywood.

UTSAGA accessories in black

lacquered steel.

RATIONELL pull out baskets –

it´s all within reach.


NYLED accessories on an

aluminium rail.

BYGEL accessories in powder

coated steel.

The drawers glide smoothly on

sturdy self-closing runners for

years of service. To set the drawer

in the open position, slide it out

until it stops, then tilt s

lightly

up so it clears the stop point on

the runner. To close the drawer

tilt it up again and roll it s

hut.Hang theposter on the wall for Step 7

10


You’ve done it! Time to step back and admire your work: a prac-tical, attractive kitchen full of ingenious featuresdesigned to make your life easier every day. Bestof all, you got more for your money at IKEAbecause you did a lot of the work yourself. Withjust a little care and maintenance, your newIKEA kitchen will keep looking its best for yearsto come.

Caring for your cabinetsClean the doors, cabinet interiors and wood surfaces with a soft, damp cloth using cleaningproducts intended for these materials. Aftercleaning, wipe down with a clean dry cloth.DO NOT use cleaning agents that containammonia, alcohol or abrasives.

Keeping sinks shiningStainless steel sinks should be cleaned with a mild detergent and sponge, then rinsed thor-oughly and wiped dry. Be sure to clean in thedirection of the metal’s grain. Never use steelwool, steel brushes, bleaching or scouring powders on a stainless steel sink. Avoid cleaningsilver on the sinktop, since this may discolor it.

Now, enjoy your new kitchen!

11

For care of solid wood countertops,see poster Step 5. r

4. Mark the level lines for the wallcabinets and suspension railUsing the high point on the floor thatyou marked in Step 1, measure up thewall 83 7/8” for the top of 30” wall cabinetsor 92 5/8” for 39” wall cabinets. Next,locate the bottom of the suspension railby measuring down 2 1/2” (3” for horizon-tal cabinets) from the first mark. Thendraw level lines on the wall.

1. Checking for uneven spotsStart by checking the walls visuallyand running a 4 foot level along thesurface. Mark any irregularities, suchas bows and high spots. If major prob-lems need to be fixed, you may wantto hire a professional. It may also benecessary to use shims when mount-ing the cabinets.

10. Level and secure the cabinetFit the small metal plate over the bolt,thread the nut loosely in place. Levelthe cabinet, using shims at the bottomedge if necessary. With your wrench,loosely secure the cabinet hardware.Do not tighten; this will allow you tomake adjustments once all of the cabi-nets are installed.

9. Hang the corner cabinetStarting with the corner cabinet, alignone piece of the suspension rail hard-ware with the predrilled hole at the topof the cabinet. Position the second holeand its hardware. Note: If you don’thave a corner cabinet, install a cabinetthat fits against both the back and sidewalls, allowing the filler space shownon your plan.

8. Secure the suspension railSecure the suspension rail to the studs,aligning the bottom edge of the railwith the level line marked on the wall.If you found a bow in the wall of morethan 1/4” in Step 1, shim the suspensionrail until it is straight. Should the endof the rail fall between studs, secure itto the wall with a heavy duty anchor.

7. Insert suspension rail hardwareSlide the suspension rail hardware intothe suspension rail before putting it up.You’ll need two pieces per wall cabinet.(Be sure to position one piece on eachside of the corner cabinet if your plancalls for one.) You may find it helpful totape the hardware into place until therail goes up.

6. Cut the suspension railMeasure the length of the wall cabinetsto be installed along one wall. Includethe length of wall behind a high cabinetonly if the high cabinet is 12” deep.Subtract 1/4” from the overall measure-ment. (This will leave 1/8” of space ateither end of the rail.) Use your hacksaw to cut the suspension rail to thislength.

Note: If you will be installing a highcabinet, final adjustments and tight-ening of the mounting hardwareshould be done after the high cabi-net is installed to ensure that every-thing is level.

14. Tighten the mounting screwsWhen all wall cabinets have beenmounted, aligned and connected, andfinal adjustments have been made,tighten all of the mounting hardware.Slide the plastic covers in place overthe metal corner bracket.

13. Fasten cabinets together Place the connection screws enclosedwith the cabinet frames into the holesand tighten. Remove the clamps.Continue fastening the remaining cabi-nets together in the same way.

12. Drill through cabinet wallsYou’ll find predrilled holes on the insideof each cabinet. For all doors exceptULRIKSDAL use a 3/16" drill bit to drillthrough the fourth holes from the topand bottom edges. (The second andthird holes are for the door hinges.) ForULRIKSDAL door, drill through thesecond holes from the top and bottomedges. (The hinges for ULRIKSDAL fitinto the third and fourth holes from thetop/bottom.)

11. Hang the remaining wall cabinetsHang the rest of the cabinets in thesame way, aligning each with the previ-ous one. Use your clamps to temporarilyhold adjacent cabinets into position. Toavoid marring the surface of your cabi-nets, use a small scrap of wood betweenthe clamp and the cabinet.


When you’ve completed Step 3, all of the wall cabinets will be in place.

© Inter IKEA

Systems B.V. 2004.

Hang theseinstructions on

the wall so you’ll have your hands free

AKURUM wall cabinets are mountedusing a sturdy steel suspension rail. Thisensures a strong installation, and makesit easier to hang and level the cabinets.

If you haven’t already done so in Step 1,measure and draw the position of the cab-inets on the wall to ensure that everythingwill fit. Also be sure you’ve marked unevenand high spots on the wall.

5. Finding the studs in drywallAt the marked suspension rail line, tapthe wall from the corner out (or use astud-finder) to check for the first stud.Mark its position. While subsequentstuds are usually at 16” intervals, theymay be at 12” or 24” intervals in somekitchens. Mark the location of each studalong the line. This will show you whereto attach the suspension rail to the wall.

2. NextCheck the floor to find its high point.The level will help you here as well.Check all areas where you’ll beinstalling base or high cabinets, andmark the high and low points on thewall.

3. FinallyFit a combination square or rightangled wood panel into each corner,and see if there are any gaps betweenit and the wall. If the gap is more than1/4”, call your IKEA expert for assis-tance. In a “U” shaped kitchen, meas-ure between opposite walls at a num-ber of spots to see if they are parallel.

Note: Legs can be shared by two cabinets, see the instructions. Place thecorner cabinet against the wall so thatits back edge is resting on the supportboard. Through the holes at the topback corners of the cabinet, mark whereto drill for the fixing screw. Set the cab-inet aside. Note: If there´s no cornercabinet, install the cabinet that will fitagainst the back and side walls,allowing the filler space shown on yourplan.

3. Secure the support boardAlign the top edge of the support boardwith the level line you marked at 4 5/16”.Secure it to the studs. Should the end ofthe support board fall between studs,secure it to the wall with a heavy-dutyanchor.

2. Cut base cabinet support boardsMeasure the length of the base andhigh cabinets to be installed. Do notinclude the wall space behind appli-ances. Cut the base cabinet supportboard into measured lengths. Cut theboard 1 1/2” shorter where a side toekickis planned.

9. Drill through the cabinet wallsFor all doors except ULRIKSDAL use a3/16" drill bit to drill through the fourthholes from the top and bottom edges.For ULRIKSDAL door, drill through thesecond holes from the top/bottom. Wheninstalling a drawer cabinet, drillthrough the fifth hole from the top.

8. Install the next base cabinetMark, drill, and insert the screws forthe next cabinet. Lift the cabinet intoplace, carefully aligning it with theprevious cabinet and securing themtogether with a clamp.

7. Secure the cabinet to the wallTighten the screws, but not completely.Assure that the cabinet is level front-to-back and side-to-side. Hint: Installingthe LAZY SUSAN is easier now thanafter the countertops are in place.

6. Install the corner cabinetLift the corner cabinet back into placeand adjust the legs so that it standslevel.

5. Drill, anchor and screwUsing the appropriate drill bit and typeof screw for your wall material, drillholes at the spots you’ve marked. Ifthere’s no stud, insert a heavy-dutyanchor then the screw and tightenhalfway.

12. Tighten all the screwsWhen all base cabinets have beenmounted and aligned, tighten all screwsinto the wall. Now the high cabinet isin place, make the final adjustments tothe wall cabinets and tighten all thescrews.

11. Install the high cabinetThe high cabinet should be installedthe same way you installed the basecabinets. If you´re using a cover panelon one side, mount this before install-ing the cabinet using the enclosedinstructions

10. Fasten cabinets togetherPlace the connection screws enclosedwith the cabinet frames into the holesand tighten. Continue in this fashionwith the remaining base cabinets

Step 4. Install the base and high cabinetsHang these

instructions on the wall so you’ll

have your hands free

When you’ve completed Step 4, all of the cabinet frames will be in place.

18. The finishing touchDab your finger into a 3-in-1 oil to pre-vent the caulk from sticking, then runyour finger along the caulk, forcing itinto the crevice. Remove the tape for anairtight seal and a straight edge.

17. Prepare the area to be caulkedTo produce an airtight seal between thewall and the cabinet, you’ll need tocaulk around the filler pieces. Choose awell made latex brand (it doesn’t needto be waterproof.) Tape alongside thearea to be caulked. Apply a bead ofcaulk into the crevice.

15. Install filler pieces Put the filler piece in place with the cutedge against the wall. Attach by drillinga screw through the predrilled holesfrom the inside of the cabinet. Installother filler pieces in the same way.When you’ve finished installing allfiller pieces, go to picture 17.

Cut the template material so that it’sthe same height as the cabinet. Hold itin place where the filler will beinstalled. Open the compass a couple ofinches and place the point against thewall. Holding the compass horizontaland level, follow the line of the wall sothat the pencil traces a clear line on thetemplate. To cut the template to the cor-rect width, measure the distance fromthe farthest point on the wall to the cab-inet. Find the same point on the tem-plate and mark it. Draw a straight linefrom this point to the top and bottom ofthe template to form the flat edge thatwill fit against the cabinet. Cut the tem-plate and check that it fits, then tracethe shape onto the fller and follow thecutting directions in picture 14.

16. If the wall is unevenIf the wall is not level and flat, the fillermust be cut to conform to the wall’sshape. To do this, you’ll need to make atemplate for tracing the wall’s shapeonto the filler. A piece of thin plywood orheavy cardboard makes a suitable tem-plate. You’ll also need a measuring tape,pencil and compass.

© Inter IKEA

Systems B.V. 2004.

Next, it’s time for the base and high cabinets. Before you begin, note all plumb-ing, power sources and other utilities.Measure these locations carefully, and,using a hole saw, cut the appropriateopenings before each cabinet is installed.

In the following steps, you’ll installthe legs at the front of the cabinets, andsecure a cabinet support board to the wall.This is a length of particleboard packedtogether with the toe-kick panels. If youprefer, you can use legs on the back of thecabinets in lieu of the support board.

4. Start with the corner cabinetAttach legs to the front edges of thecabinets according to package instruc-tions. If you are not using the supportboard, attach back legs as well.Always use a back leg at the end of therun, as this makes attaching the sidetoe-kick easier.

14. Cut filler piecesWith a handsaw: draw a line connectingthe top and bottom marks on the frontside of the filler, and cut it with the faceside up. Jigsaw: mark both sides of thefiller. Put masking tape over the line onthe front side to prevent chipping. Cutit from the back side.

1. Marking the level linesUsing the high point of the floor thatyou marked earlier, measure up 4 5/16”.Use a 4 foot level to draw a line on thewall at this height. Now measure 34 1/2”from the same point on the floor anddraw another level line. This will helpyou level the top of the base cabinets.

13. Measure filler piecesCheck the wall with your level to see ifit is even and flat. If so, measure thedistance from the wall to the cabinetand mark this distance at the top andbottom of the filler piece. Note: If thewall is uneven, skip to picture 16.

Now it’s time to install the countertop andsink. This poster details the installationcare and maintenance of our solid woodcountertops.

When measuring and sawing the solidwood tops throughout this step, we sug-gest placing them on sawhorses for easiesthandling. Once you’ve finished Step 5, it’sa good idea to hire professionals to con-nect the water, gas or electricity, and toinstall the oven, dishwasher and lighting.

Using your pencil and a straight edge,draw a “cut” line inside this line,according to the directions that camewith your sink.

3. Saw the countertop If you’re sawing by hand, we recom-mend using a fine-toothed handsaw forcontrol. To avoid splintering the coun-tertop, tape over the area to be cut.If you’re using a circular saw, turn thecounter face down and clamp astraight-edge in place to guide the sawalong the cut line. Finish the cut edgewith your file.

2. Measure the counterMeasure the counter from the end ofthe base cabinet out, allowing for thecover panel plus a 1/2” overhang. Markwith a pencil on the finished side ifyou’ll be using a handsaw and on theunderside if using a power saw.

9. Secure the countertopYour countertop should be secured asshown using the hardware provided.The slotted brackets allow the coun-terop to expand and contract normally.Set countertops in place, allowing thesame gaps as when you measured.Locate attachment points at regularintervals and drill pilot holes beforesecuring the top.

8. Install the sinkLift off the countertop and turn itupside down, placing it back on yoursaw horses. Install the sink accordingto the sink manufacturer’s instructions.

7. Trim the cabinet top railsFit the countertop back into place onthe base cabinet. Check that the sinkhole is not obstructed by the top framerails of the base cabinet. If it is, you’llneed to trim the rails so that the sinkwill fit properly.

6. Seal the sink cutout To prevent moisture from penetratingthe countertop, apply a polyurethaneseal along the cut edges with a paint-brush.

5. Saw the sink holePlace the countertop on sawhorses.Drill a 1/2” hole for the jigsaw blade atall four corners of the cut line.Following this same cut line, saw thehole for the sink unit.

11. Prepare wood countertop for useYour solid wood countertop from IKEAwas pretreated at the factory to condi-tion and protect it until installation. Toprepare it for use, sand the surface witha fine sandpaper and finish it withIKEA BEHANDLA approved wood-block oil.

10. Install the faucetIf your sink is not pre-drilled for thefaucet or other fittings, you´ll need tocut the necessary holes in the sink.Tape and mark a place for each of thefittings. Drill all holes with the aid ofthe FIXA tool and install the faucet andfittings following the manufacturer´sinstructions.


When you’ve completed Step 5, the countertops and sink will be in place.

© Inter IKEA

Systems B.V. 2004.



12. Assure long-term beautySand and oil your counterop regularlyfor long-term beauty and protection.Stains and minor damage can beremoved using fine sandpaper. Wipe thesanded surface clean and re-oil theaffected area.

1. Position the countertopLay the countertop on top of the basecabinets, allowing 1/8”at the back wall,and a smaller space against the sidewall or high cabinet. If you’re installingtops in an “L” shape, the two sectionsmust meet in a butt joint. (Do not makeangle or mitre-cut joints.) These stepsallow the counter to undergo normalexpansion and contraction.

4. Mark a spot for the sinkWith the countertop in place, trace theinside of the base cabinet on the under-side of the countertop. This helpsassure that the sink cutout will bealigned correctly. Then, place the sinkupside down on the underside of thecountertop, positioning it correctly sideto side and front to back. Trace aroundthe edge of the sink with a pencil.

2. Attach toe-kick edging Cover the cut edge of the toe-kicks with the enclosed edgingstrip. Press it on with a warmiron, then cut it to the rightlength.

1. Saw toe-kicksCarefully measure and mark toe-kicks so that they cover the openarea below your base cabinets.Saw toe-kicks to the correctlength using a fine-toothed saw.



© Inter IKEA

Systems B.V. 2004.

4. Attach light valancesMeasure, cut and fit the lightvalances beneath the wall cabi-nets. Instructions for installationand placement are included withthe valances. Remember toattach sealing strips.

6. Attach the hinge plateScrew the door hinge base plateinto the second and third predrilledholes at the top and bottom.(IMPORTANT: If you chooseULRIKSDAL door, you must screwthe hinge base plate into the thirdand fourth predrilled holes.)

8. Hang the doorsSnap the hinge body onto thebase plate and adjust the door tothe correct position, using theadjustment screws. Instructionsfor doing this are included withthe hinges.

7. Fit the hinge to the doorInsert the hinge body into thepredrilled hole in the door andpress as shown. No screws areneeded.

9. Attach door handlesSelect and measure the positionof the door handles. Make areversible wood template withthe correct drilling points so thatyou can place handles in thesame position on all doors. Besure to check on which side thedoor opens before you mark anddrill the holes. Hold a block ofwood behind each door so thatthe surface doesn’t splinter whenthe drill bit goes through.

Congratulations!You’ve done it! Time to step back

and admire your work: a practical,attractive kitchen full of ingenious features that

will make your life easier for years to come.And best of all – you got more for your money at IKEA because you


10. Attach protective tabsThese self-adhesive tabs willreduce the sound when you closecabinet doors. You’ll find them inthe package with the hinges.Peel and stick to the upper andlower corners of the doors or cab-inets, opposite the hinge side.

2. Install lighting If cabinet lighting is included inyour kitchen plan, we suggestthat you install it now. Use aqualified electrician for profes-sional results.

5. Attach drawer frontsUsing the hardware provided,mount each drawer front to thedrawer box through the pre-drilled, prealigned holes. Theseholes and the hardware alloweasy adjustment for perfectdrawer front alignment.

The cabinets have predrilled holes for quick andeasy installation of shelving, drawers and interior accessories. This also makes it simple tomake adjustments or add accessories later on.

If you need to attach cover panels to the cabi-net frames, put them on before doing anythingelse, since they’re screwed on from the inside.





It’s almost time to celebrate—you only have a few morethings left to do! But they’re important, so be sure to takeyour time.

Remember to install any child safety devices you’ve cho-sen. Drawer and cabinet safety catches help you protect yourchildren from dangerous household chemicals and otheritems that could bring them harm.

1. Install cover panelsTemporarily secure the coverpanel into place using a clamp.Drill pilot holes through the cab-inet frame from the inside of thecabinets, being careful not todrill through the cover panel.Screw the cover panel into place.

3. Install shelvesInsert four supports per shelfinto the predrilled holes insideeach cabinet, then rest a shelf ontop of them. Think about whatyou need to store, and place theshelves to make best use of thespace.

4. Attach drawerknobs/handlesOn a 6” high drawer front,attach knobs and handles to thedrawer front before it is mount-ed to the drawer box.

5. Install cornicesFollow the installation instruc-tions included with the cornice.For best results, use a miter boxsaw to cut the corners of eachcornice at a 45° angle. Measurecarefully so that cornices will bethe right length.

3. Clip toe-kicks into placeFollow the directions for attach-ing the toe-kick clips. At cornersset one clip facing up and theother down – this allows themboth to fit on the same leg. Snapthe toe-kicks into place.

RATIONELL interior fittings forthe drawers.

GRUNDTAL accessories in stain-less steel.

FÖRHÖJA series in clear lac-quered solid birch/birch plywood.

UTSAGA accessories in blacklacquered steel.

RATIONELL pull out baskets –it´s all within reach.


NYLED accessories on an aluminium rail.

BYGEL accessories in powdercoated steel.

The drawers glide smoothly onsturdy self-closing runners foryears of service. To set the drawerin the open position, slide it outuntil it stops, then tilt slightlyup so it clears the stop point onthe runner. To close the drawertilt it up again and roll it shut.


Congratulations on your new IKEA Kitchen,and on the money you saved!

installation guide for your akurum · pdf fileinstallation guide for your akurum kitchen...

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