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INDIAN OCEAN ISLAND

Seychelles, Mauritius, Reunion and Rodrigues

25TH September – 17th October 2015

Graham Talbot

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Introduction As I had to return to the UK in October for a family reasons I thought I would combined it with some birding but where. It needed to be “chick friendly” i.e. somewhere you can take a none birding partner and preferable a country I had not visited before. Initially I thought about the Caribbean but this would of required another long flight from the UK and the flights didn’t go daily. As I was going via Dubai my thoughts turned to Africa and then to the Indian Ocean and the Seychelles and Mauritius. You couldn’t get more chick friendly than that. So the destination was decided now I needed to check out the logistics. As there were two Public holidays in Hong Kong at the end of September and I needed to be in the UK the first week of October I decided to do the trip in two sections. The Seychelles on the way to the UK and Mauritius and Reunion Island on the way back. For the first leg in the Seychelles I had my none birding partner with me so although the endemics are quite easy to see I spent over seven days there and took it easy. I was on my own for the next leg and again it could have been done in a much shorter time frame but I decided to add a few days just in case of bad weather or if any of the endemics proved tricky as it was highly unlikely that I would every go back there again. Logistics Accommodation and Food These are quite straight forward. All of the islands are well developed, rental cars are available and the birding sites are close together with the exception of the Seychelles where four Islands have to be visited. Due to this and to make the logistics easy I booked everything direct with the local travel agent Masons. They were no more expensive that trying to book independently and they arranged all the internal flights, ferries, bike rental and car hire as well as pickups drop offs for the hotels. They had representatives everywhere and I couldn’t fault their organisation. The only guide I used was Perely Constance who I contacted directly Pecconstance@hotmail.com . If you want to make sure you see the Seychelles White-eye and have a good chance of the Owl then he is the man. For a 100 Euros he guided from 3pm to 9pm and we saw both birds though we had to work for the Owl. In Mauritius basically all the birds can be seen at the southern end of the Island where the airport is. It may be possible to get to the sites by public transport and of course there are always taxis but I decided to rent a car to give me as much flexibility as possible. I spent a morning in the north of the island at Bras D’Eau National Park for a change in scenery. All the major car rental companies have offices at

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the airport and the roads are good though a little slow. I stayed at a small homestay Gite des Acacias which was a ten minute drive from the airport and less than a thirty minute drive to the Black River Gorge National Park. It was a great choice very relaxed and they cooked great local dishes every night. The car had a Sat nav which made getting around easy. From Mauritius I did day trip to the Island of Rodrigues 600kms to the east. The flight took one and a half hours and from the airport I took a taxi to the Solitude Forest Station which took about 20 minutes. The station is located on the left down a track about 2kms from Port Mathurin heading towards Mont Lubin. All the taxi drivers know it. Both the endemics can be seen easily here and I had seen both within ten minutes of arriving. After I had finished birding I walked to Port Mathurin and got a taxi back to the airport though it is possible to catch a bus. On Reunion Island I again rented a car though the same applies re public transport and taxis as Mauritius. With the Island being a French Department it’s well developed with a very good road network. All the endemics can be seen in the Reunion National Park along the La Roche Ecrite trail which starts 5kms above the small village of Brule and is a 17km drive from St Denis. Because of this I stayed in the Central Hotel in the capital to reduce the driving. It is well worth driving to the south of the Island to Le Volcano apart from having a much better chance of seeing the Harrier the erupting volcano is well

Solitude Forest Station

Bras d’Eau

Valle De Ferny and Kestrel Valley

Sea watching

Black River National Park

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worth a look. I did two seawatching sessions just north of St Louis and had loads of seabirds and at times some of the Petrels were quite close to the shore. Weather The weather was not as good as I thought it was going to be but also it was not as hot and humid as I thought. In the Seychelles most nights it was over caste with gusty wind and some quite heavy rain though this had cleared by the mornings. The low cloud didn’t clear over the higher ground until midday. In Mauritius and Reunion the weather was similar though a little cooler and there was a heavy shower of rain mid-afternoon though it didn’t last for long Sites Seychelles All the sites are covered in the various trip reports which can be found on the internet. The best ones being http://www.surfbirds.com/mb/trips/seychelles-campbell-0713.pdf http://www.surfbirds.com/trip_report.php?id=1913 Additional comments Instead of doing the standard three island cruise to get to Cousin Island you can just book a morning trip to the island with one of the small local operators. The island is open every morning during the week. Take lots of very strong mosquito repellent with you as the Mosquitos are viscous

Mauritius All the sites are covered in the various trip reports which can be found on the internet. The best ones being http://www.surfbirds.com/mb/trips/mauritius-campbell-0713.pdf

La

Roche

Ecrite

Good

Area for

Reunion

Harrier

Seawatch Site

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http://www.cloudbirders.com/tripreport/repository/KIRBY_Mauritius_09_2014.pdf http://users.ugent.be/~hmatheve/hm/MASCARENES12.html Additional comments. From the car part at the Le Petrin entrance the Macchabe track is well sign posted. You need to walk about 1.5Kms before you get into good forest. After 2kms the track splits take the left hand fork to the lookout point There is a small foot path that descends from the lookout and heads towards the other entrance. It goes through some excellent forest though I only explored the top part of it. The right hand fork goes through some good forest for about a Km. The Savanna trail which starts a couple of Km’s uphill from Bassin Blanc is shown on all the maps. Although the gate was closed it was not locked and there was no sign saying entry forbidden and you could walk round it. The track leads to the Combo area which is the strong hold for the Olive white-eye and Fody. I saw the Fody between the Pigeon release centre and the communications Tower.

BASSIN BLANC

Bassin Blanc I saw Olive White-eye and the Paradise Flycatcher from the layby looking down in to the lake. I also found a very steep trail leading to the lake edge 20m downhill from the layby. I saw both birds in this area as well. The Kestrel can be tricky if you do not go to Vallee de Ferny at feeding time. I didn’t and it took a lot of walking around before I saw one. Kestrel Valley was still closed but there is a drivable track forking off left just before the entrance which climbs up the valley side and hence gives good views of the valley. I saw a Kestrel late afternoon flying around the lower part of the valley. Reunion Island The best reports are http://users.ugent.be/~hmatheve/hm/MASCARENES12.html Additional Comments – The Cuckooshrike appears to favour the higher part of the trail between the large clearing and the Gite. I heard at least four birds. Early morning and late afternoon were best as during the day low mist can swirl up the valley. The walk to the higher more open ground was long and uphill and the Harrier is not guaranteed. Instead I would recommend driving from St Denis along the N2 to St Denoit and then the N3 across the island. I had four sightings from the car on route to and from the Le Volcano.

SOLITUDE FOREST STATION

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Acknowledgments Thanks to all the people who compile trip reports and post them on the web. Without them independent rips would be much harder Books and Trip Reports For trip reports see above Books Birds of the Indian Ocean Islands – Ian Sinclair and Olivier Langrand

LA ROCHE ECRITE TRAIL

LE VOLCANO

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Itinerary Sunday 27th September Arrived on Mahe Seychelles early afternoon and eventually boarded the small plane for the short hop to Praslin arriving just as it was getting dark. Whilst waiting for the transfer to the hotel I checked out the airport carpark. It was full of bird song but the only birds I saw were Madagascar Red Fody. Checked into our hotel had dinner and an early night it had been a long couple of days of travelling. Monday 28th September. Woke a couple of times in the night and saw that it was a stormy night with heavy rain and gusts of wind not what I had expected and not what I had wanted. By 7.30 the rain had stopped so I walked along the beach towards the airport the first birds seen being a selection of waders mainly Sanderling and Turnstone but with the occasional Greater Sandplover, Grey Plover and a single Whimbrel. The airport car part consisted of large trees so I spent an hour wandering around and it wasn’t long before I had seen my first endemic Seychelles Sunbird. This was quickly followed by Seychelles Blue Pigeon and finally Seychelles Bulbul. The sky was over caste and hence the light was not the best for photography. I returned to the hotel along the road seeing more Sunbirds and Pigeons plus a few of the introduced species. After a late breakfast we walked the opposite way along the beach but the only bird of note was a Greater Crested Tern.

At 2.30 we decided to catch the local bus to Vallee de Mai and whilst waiting for the bus which took ages to arrive a Seychelles Swiftlet flew over and this was followed by a Great Frigatebird. The bus eventually arrived and soon we were at the entrance of Vallee De Mai National Park. A slow walk through the coco de mer palms was very quiet bird wise with just a few Seychelles Bulbuls. I spent about an hour birding outside the park from the road and along a dirt track at the top of the pass leading to a radio tower. It took a while but eventually I saw at least 4 Seychelles Parrots but views of the perched birds were distant. About 10 Swiftlets hawk over the entrance. With rain threatening again we caught the bus back to the hotel.

SEYCHELLES BLUE PIGEON SEYCHELLES BULBUL

SEYCHELLES SUNBIRD MALE AND FEMALE

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SEYCHELLES SWIFTLET

Tuesday 29th September Woke again to over caste skies and a gusty wind and after an early breakfast we were picked up by the bus and taken to the jetty where our tour of the three islands was to start. We boarded a very large catamaran and headed out to sea towards Cousin Island. It took about 45 minutes to get there during which time the only birds were a single Brown Noddy and a Wedge tailed Shearwater. Anchoring off shore we were transferred to the Island by a small boat. By now the sun had come out it was hot and very bright. As soon as we reached the treeline we were attacked by hordes of mosquitos and the repellent we had was totally ineffective. Luckily the wardens had some cream which worked well but they still bite through our clothes. The island was full of nesting seabirds with Lesser Noddy, Fairy Terns and White tailed Tropicbirds so close they could almost be touched. Whilst waiting to be divided into groups and allocated a guide the first target was located a Seychelles Fody the drabbest of the family with just a touch of yellow on the throat. We were eventually split up into small groups and we walked the trail along the edge of the beach. It was not long before target number two fell a Seychelles Warbler which performed well. As we walked through the forest we eventually came across the last target a Seychelles Magpie Robin

SEYCHELLES WARBLER SEYCHELLES MAGPIE ROBIN

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All round us were Lesser Noddy’s Fairy Terns and White tailed Tropicbirds. After a while we emerged from the forest which was a relief as the mosquitoes were viscous. It was hot sitting on the beach waiting for the small boat to take us back to the catamaran but it was better than being bitten to death in the shade of the tress. It was nice to be in the shade of the boat again. The boat continued onto Curieuse Island where we stopped for an hour. The Turtle Doves here where the closest I saw to the Seychelles form with dark heads and chestnut backs. Returning to the boat we sailed the short distance to a small island and spent an hour snorkelling which was excellent. We eventually arrived back at port and headed to our hotel for a shower and dinner Wednesday 30th October Another early start this time we made our way to the small port and caught the 9am ferry to La Digue where we picked up some bikes. It was only a short peddle to the reserve and within ten minutes we had found a stunning male Seychelles Paradise Flycatcher and it female companion.

We spent another thirty minutes in the reserve but saw very little so returned to our bikes and cycled to Grande Anse on route coming across another male and female Flycatcher. I had a great time swimming in the crashing waves before cycling back to the port where we split up and I headed back to the reserve and spent forty minutes walking along the trails but saw nothing except a few Bulbuls and Sunbirds and it was only when I arrived back at the entrance that I came across some more Paradise Flycatchers bathing in a trough. In total there were at least three males a young male and a female. We caught the 3.30pm ferry back to Praslin and I was dropped off at Vallee de Mai where I spent the last two hours of light birding along the road and the carpark. Again the Parrots were not easy to see but I did eventually have three sightings of birds flying over. I found the best place to see them was the dirt track at the top of the pass which lead to a radio tower were there was a good view point. . Caught the local bus back to the hotel. That evening I called Perely to confirm my tour with him on the Friday

SEYCHELLES FODY FAIRY TERN

SEYCHELLES PARADISE FLYCATCHER MALE AND FEMALE

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Thursday 1st October An early morning walk along the beach produced the same selection of waders as the previous walk. It was then a matter of packing and heading to the airport for the short hop to Mahe. The plane left 20minutes early so when we arrived we had to wait for the car hire to arrive but in the meantime I sorted out a local sim card. Drove to the Beachcomber hotel at Anse Soleil checked in and had a relaxing few hours swimming. I then drove up the coast to Port Launay and checked out a church where in past Seychelles Kestrel had been seen but I saw very little. Friday 2nd October. The morning was a day of leisure around the hotel and a walk. At 12.30 I left and drove to Victoria where I had lunch and meet up with Perely as arranged at 2.30pm. We parked his car and then headed to the airport to look for Seychelles Kestrel but no luck. We then headed to the settlement of Le Misere in the mountains on route stopping at a view point. From the view point a Seychelles Kestrel was seen briefly. We waited for it to return but there were no further sightings after 30 mins so we continued on up to the top of the pass and the village and it was not long before Perely had located a Seychelles White-eye and very soon we had excellent views of at least two birds. Well that was easy. We dropped down to the West coast and headed north stopping a few times to check out some Seychelles Kestrel sites but nothing. Eventually we arrived at Port Launay Church the same place I looked the previous evening and after about 30 minutes a kestrel swopped in and landed in a tree above our heads.

SEYCHELLES WHITE-EYE

We watched it on and off for a while before it final flew off for good. Just the Owl left. We slowly drove up the Soucis road and stopped at a lower elevation and waited until 7.45 which is apparently the best time before playing the tape. It was not long before we were rewarded with a response close by but before we could locate the calling bird a bus went by and flushed it. The call was very frog like I would

SEYCHELLES BLACK PARROT

SEYCHELLES SCOPS OWL

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never have guessed it was an Owl. It started calling from the other side of the road and this time we located it on a branch but the view was very brief before it moved off deep into the forest. We continued on up and stopped at two other locations but nothing responded. Finally we stopped at the Missions settlement and were just about to give up when a bird called from nearby and it eventually gave good views with another bird calling nearby. A very successful few hours. I dropped Perely in Victoria and headed back to the hotel. Saturday 3rd October Before breakfast I drove the short distance to Bale Lazare Church and checked it out for Kestrels but no luck. Returned to the hotel and had breakfast and then drove to Victoria and spent a few hours looking at the sights before driving to Bel Ombre parking the car just past La Scala and continuing on foot to Anse Major. Whilst walking along the trail my bag opened and my camera fell out and on booting it up it came up with a lens error which I couldn’t clear. I was not happy. Returning to the car we headed to higher ground and walked along the Copolia trail which ended at a great view point and also we found some small pitcher plants. Birds were thin on the ground though lots Bulbuls were heard. Returning to the car we dropped down to the west coast and headed back towards Anse Soleil on route coming across a Seychelles Kestrel perched on a pole but lack of camera meant no pictures. We returned to the hotel and then I headed to Bale Lazare Church again and this time there was a Kestrel perched on the top of the Church and despite the ongoing service it didn’t move.

SEYCHELLES KESTREL

Sunday 4th October An 8am flight meant an early start. We dropped off the car at the airport and headed to Dubai and then I carried on to London and Alisa to Hong Kong. That was the first leg completed and a successful clean up. Now for a few days in the UK Friday 9th October Following an overnight flight from London we left Dubai late due to a technical issue and eventually touched down in Mauritius just after 11am. I was surprised how big and new the airport was. I was through immigration and picked up my bags then had a little wait before my rental car was ready. Paperwork was done and I was off to my accommodation which was only ten minutes away. Checked in had a shower and cup of tea and then headed towards Black River Gorge National Park. First port of call was Grand Bassin where some roadside birding produced my first two endemics Mauritius White-eye and best of all a Mauritius Bulbul which can be tricky to see. Also I saw a small party of Mascarine Martins a regional endemic. I continued on to the Savanna trail which although was gated the gate was open. I walked along the trail and just past the Pink Pigeon release centre I came across a female Fody which I though was probably Mauritius and was proved right when it was joined by a stonking male. Continuing on I checked all the flocks of White-eyes hoping for an Olive but no luck. On the retracing my steps I came cross another pair of Mauritius Fody’s and three Pink Pigeons

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I drove down the road a couple of Km’s until I came to Bassin Blanc where I parked in the small layby. There were lots of White-eyes and scanning form the bund looking done to the lake I heard a Mauritius Olive White-eye call and very soon picked it up and whilst watching it another bird joined it. Excellent this was a bird that I thought could be difficult. Whilst looking for it again I noticed a movement in the tree which turned out to be a Mauritius Paradise Flycatcher. I decided to try and continue my winning streak and headed back to Le Petrin and walked along the Macchabe trail but by now it was getting dull and bird activity was very low. By the time I reach my car it was dark so I headed back to my homestay where I had an excellent meal before an early night. What a stunning start to Mauritius. Saturday 10th October Woke early and as I left the homestay it started to rain a little, it was over caste and threatening to rain hard. As I drove towards Black River Gorge National Park I could see that the higher ground was covered in low cloud. I thought I would start at Bassin Blanc as it was a bit lower but it was very windy and dull. As the remaining targets were along the Macchabe trail I decided that I had to try and hope the weather would improve. The first kilometre of the trail was very exposed and hence was very windy but I did find an Echo Parakeet flying around calling before it landed. As I continued on the weather started getting better but it was still very windy. Birds were few and far between and I had seen very little by the time I reached the lookout point. I spent some time scanning the surrounding forest but apart from a few White-tailed Tropicbirds floating over the forest very little. As it appeared calmer lower I decided to descend from the view point and it was not long before I heard a Mauritius Cuckooshrike which came in and gave great views. As I put my camera on it lens error appeared again and I didn’t have my spare camera. I returned to the lookout and then retraced my steps to Le Petrin along the way finding at least four more Echo Parakeet’s including a female with a dark bill.

ECHO PARAKEET

I needed to return to the homestay to get my spare camera so it was a wasted 30ins driving there. From there I headed to Kestrel Valley but it was still closed it appears to have been closed for a couple of years. I spent some time scanning from an adjacent road but saw very little. The Kestrel were proving difficult. I decided to try Valle de Fernery which I had pasted on my way. Back tracking I saw the sign

PINK PIGEON MAURITIUS FODY

WHITE-TAILED TROPICBIRD

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the sign and headed inland. I arrived at the centre but there was nobody around so I continued on foot scanning the hills but nothing. On my way back to the car I suddenly heard a Kestrel calling and very soon I had located it sitting in a tree above a nest box. It gave great views until flew into the next box. That was the last endemic. As I only had a couple of hours I decided to return to Kestrel valley and see if I could find some more kestrels. I drove to a vantage point and scanned the valley and after about thirty minutes a Kestrel flew low along the valley. It made a few circuits perching briefly once before it disappeared into a tree. It had been a long day so I headed back to the homestay.

MAURITIUS KESTREL

Sunday 11th October As the higher ground had been covered in low cloud first thing I decided to start at Bras d’ Eau a lowland forest about an hour away. I set off early and arrived not long after first light and headed into the forest following the signs for the Mango wood crossing the old railway line and continuing on. Mauritius Grey White-eyes were abundant and within 30 minutes I had found a Mauritius Paradise Flycatcher but it didn’t hang around and despite searching for another couple of hours I couldn’t locate anymore. The mosquitoes were viscous biting through my clothes so I was glad to leave. I returned to Le Petrin and again walked the Macchabe Forest trail. After about 2km’s I came across a pair of Mauritius Cuckooshrikes which showed well but not a lot more though I did have a few flyover Echo Parakeets.

I tried a side trail the descended but after a few Km’s I didn’t reach any good habitat so I returned to Le Petrin and drove the short distance to the start of the Savanna trail. Although the gate was closed it was not locked and there was a path round it so I walked as far as the communications tower locating the same Mauritius Fody as the previous day and lots of Grey White-eyes but no Olive. Returning to the car I headed a bit further down the road and park in the layby by Bassin Blanc. Although it was windy it was sheltered on the lake side. Whilst scanning I heard some Olive White-eyes calling but way to the left. There were some people fishing in the lake so I thought there must be a path down. I headed down hill and after 20m I found a very steep trail from which the lakeshore could be accessed. It was

MAURITIUS CUKOOSHRIKE FEMALE AND MALE

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not the feint hearted but I scrambled down and as I did a pair of Olive White-eyes showed very well and whilst watching them a Paradise Flycatcher also showed but again only briefly.

After a while I returned to the car and as I had lugged my scope with me all the way from Hong Kong I decided it needed to be used and so headed to La Roche Qui Pleure on the south coast where I sat and seawatch for the last two hours. There was a constant steam of Wedge-tailed Shearwaters passing by with a few Sooty Terns and Noddy’s probably Common but they were to away far to be sure. As the sun dropped I returned to my homestay. Monday 12th October An early start as I wanted to do some birding before my flight to Rodrigues. I headed to Le Petrin and pulled up just as it was getting light and the first bird I saw was a Mauritius Bulbul only my second. I made my way along the Macchabe Trail it was windy and there were a few spots of rain. I located the same pair of Cuckoshrikes as the previous day and again had a few flyover Echo Parakeets. As I returned two Mauritius Bulbul’s showed well but that was it for my endeavours.

MAURITIUS BULBUL

I headed to the airport checked in and caught the 10.40 flight to Rodrigues. The 600km flight took just under one and a half hours and as I had no check in baggage I was out of the terminal five minutes after landing and into a taxi. It took just under 20 minutes to drive to the Solitude Forest Station. The taxi dropped me off at the start of the track and I walked down through the trees to a large clearing where there were two houses and a nursery garden. I could hear Fody’s calling but could not see any as they were very high up in the trees. I checked the small stream beside the forest station and the first bird I saw was a Rodrigues Warbler feeding low in the undergrowth. I walked further along the track and came across a Fody but it was just a Red Fody. However soon after a stunning male Rodrigues Fody flew up from the ground landed briefly in a tree before moving off.

MAURITIUS OLIVE WHITE-EYE MAURITIUS GREY WHITE-EYE

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Not bad both targets seen within fifteen minutes of arriving. I spent the next three hours exploring the wood adjacent to the large clearing seeing at least four more Warblers and about eight Fody’s. At 4pm I left and walked the 2kms to Port Mathurin where I tried to get a taxi to the airport but they were in short supply. I was just about to take the local bus when I saw one and waved it down and he very happy to take me. I arrived early for my flight but I was glad as it was the last flight of the day. Tuesday 13th October Today a new island. I drove the short distance to the airport and handed the car back and was heading to Reunion Island on the almost empty 8.40 departure. It was a short 35minute hop and as it’s a French Department I was quickly through immigration picked up my bags and headed to the car rental desk. It took a bit of time to sort out the car and thankfully they had a GPS. Tapped in Brule and I was on my way. Although it said it was only 22Km away it took over an hour and half to get there as the road up the mountain was hairpin bend after hair pin bend. Eventually the road ended at a large car park from where the La Roche Ecrite trail started. By now it had started to cloud over a bit and I was worried as I had read reports that the area is quite often covered in cloud. The walk up was a steady climb initially through plantation before it entered the indigenous low trees and bushes. It was not long before I had scored both Reunion Olive White-eye which looked very similar to the Mauritius one and Reunion Grey White-eyes which looked very different from the Mauritius one.

RODRIGUES FODY RODRIGUES WARBLER

REUNION GREY WHITE-EYE REUNION OLIVE WHITE-EYE

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Also Reunion Stonechat proved to be common and very tame. I continued on up and came across two UK birders who had basically seen the same as myself. We carried on up as a group and not long after found two Reunion Bulbuls. About an hour from the car park the path skirted round a large opening. I continued on up whilst the other birders headed back down. As I continued up I came across a local guide who told me he had seen a Cuckooshrike a few hours ago and gave me the rough area where he saw it. I headed on up but by now the cloud was getting lower. I searched the location but to no avail though I did find a Reunion Paradise Flycatcher. As I wanted to do some sea watching I decided to head down once at the car I set the Sat Nav for Etang Sale les Bains. The roads were busy but the traffic was moving freely and one and a half hours after setting off I was sitting on the rocks watching hundreds of Barau’s Petrels go by. I spent the two hours to dusk seawatching in which time I had Wedge tailed Shearwater, Lesser Noddy, Brown Noddy and many Tropical Shearwaters. An excellent end to the day. As darkness came I headed back to St Denis and my hotel located in the centre of town. Wednesday 14th October As I wanted to be at the Cuckooshrike stakeout at first light I had to leave the hotel at 4am as it was a 40min drive and then an hour’s walk. I set off walking in the semi dark but before long it was light. As I reached the clearing I heard a very distant Cuckooshrike call once. I waited but I did not hear it again so I ventured further up and not long after arriving at the stakeout I heard a Cuckooshrike calling and soon I had seen it.

Excellent I was worried about seeing this one mainly due to the fact that there are so few of them left maybe only 150 birds. This just left the Reunion Harrier which can be seen at the higher section of the trail above the Gite where the tall trees give way to low bushes. I continued on up and passed the Gite and entered the open area. Walking slowly I scanned the surrounding countryside but nothing. I continued on up and eventually arrived the La Roche Ecrite view point but low cloud obscured any real view. I then retraced my steps to a good vantage point and spent 4 hours scanning the area looking for a passing Harrier but nothing. I slowly headed down and had another Cuckooshrike just below the Gite and heard at least two more before the clearing. By the time I reached the car it was gone 6pm. I had been on the trail for 13 hours and it felt like it. It felt a long drive back to the hotel I was exhausted and

REUNION STONECHAT MALE AND FEMALE

REUNION CUCKOOSHRIKE REUNION BULBUL

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was glad when I fell into bed. The problem was I still needed the Harrier so I needed a plan B but I didn’t have one. In the end I decided to get up early and head to the N3 a cross Island Road where I knew they had been seen from. Thursday 15th October Another early start. I must admit it was hard getting up but I dragged myself out of bed and left the hotel just as it was getting light and drove along the N2 towards St Benoit. I stopped at a service station to get some coffee and breakfast and waited for it to get a bit lighter. Not long after leaving I saw a Harrier flying towards the motorway. I quickly stopped and manged to get my bins on it just before it disappeared over some trees. That’s was it game over. Cleaned up with a day to spare. I continued to St Benoit and then turned right on the N3 and headed inland. The road very soon started to climb through the forested hills. On reaching the plateau I turned off and followed the signs for Le Volcano 24 kms away. As the road climbed the trees got fewer and eventually the landscape turned lunar. Parking in the car park I joined the other hikers and headed along a path through the lava rocks towards the rim of the crater. It was a 40 min walk and as I arrived you could see molten Lava sewing into the air. I was a first for me and well worth the drive and walk. Having had my fill I returned to the car and headed back to the main road and just before reaching it I had another Harrier this time a stunning male. I had some lunch at the next village before I headed along the N3 back towards St Benoit. As I started to descend the through the forested slopes another Harrier showed well. At the bottom of the slope I turned left and along this road I came across a pair of Harriers quartering the steep forested slopes.

REUNION HARRIER

Wanting to do a final sea watch I headed along the N3 towards St Perrier and the north along the N1 to Etang Sale les Bains. This time I stopped a bit closer to St Louis and set up my scope. It was less windy today and the Petrels appeared to be closer inshore and a couple passed very close enabling me to get a few shots. As per the previous visit the sea was just alive with Petrels with lots of Tropical Shearwaters and a few Wedge-tailed but nothing different from the last time. As darkness fell I once again, for the last time headed to my hotel in St Denis.

BARAU'S PETREL

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Friday 16th October As my flight was not until 16.50 I had the best part of a day. What to do. In the end I decided I would again go to La Roche Ecrite and try and get some photos. It was not an early start and I didn’t arrive at the start of the trail until gone 7.30am. It was quite windy and although bright at first the mist soon rolled in. I saw the usual species and heard a Cuckooshrike just past the large clearing. I continued on up and heard another Cuckooshrike where the trail splits. I waited around and eventually got brief views in the swaying trees. It had now started to rain so I decided to head lower hoping to get below the cloud line. It did clear and I spent a few hours taking some shots or trying to before heading back to the car and making my way to the airport.

Dropped the car off and then it was a long slog home via Mauritius and Dubai with long layovers in both places.

REUNION PARADISE FLYCATCHER MASCARENE SWIFTLET

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Systematic List Barau’s Petrel Pterodroma baraui Reunion Hundreds seen on 13th and 15th October from Etang Sale les Bains during a two hour seawatch between 4 and 6pm. At times they were quite close to shore Wedge-tailed Shearwater Puffinus pacificus Seychelles One from the boat heading to Cousin Island 29th October Mauritius At least 1000 during a two hour seawatch from La Roche Qui Pleure Reunion Small number seen 13th and 15th October from Etang Sale les Bains during a two hour seawatch between 4 and 6pm Tropical Shearwater Puffinus bailloni Reunion A total of 50 seen each day 13th and 15th October Etang Sale les Bains during a two hour seawatch between 4 and 6pm though there were probably many more further out White-tailed Tropicbird Phaethon lepturus Seychelles Twenty Cousin Island 29th September. One Valle De Mai 30th September. Small numbers seen daily drifting over the high ground on Mahe Mauritius Up to ten seen daily in the Black River Gorges National Park Black-crowned Night Heron Nycticorax nycticorax Seychelles One Grande Anse 28th September Striated Heron Butorides striata Seychelles One 2nd and 3rd October Anse Soleil Mauritius Two Grande Bassin 9th October. One along the coast 10th October Rodrigues One Solitude Forest Station 12 October Western Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis Thirty Mahe airport 27th September Grey Heron Ardea cinerea Seychelles A single near Victoria 3rd October Greater Frigatebird Fregata minor Seychelles One over Grand Anse Praslin 28 Sept. Reunion Harrier Circus maillardi Reunion A total of four seen between St Denis and the Volcano via St Benoit Mauritius Kestrel Falco punctatus Mauritius One Valle de Ferney and one Kestrel Valley 10th October Seychelles Kestrel Falco araeus

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Seychelles One from the Misere road lookout and one Port Launay Church 2nd October. One on the West Coast and one Bale Lazare Church 3rd October Grey Francolin Francolinus pondicerianus Mauritius One near the homestay and two Valle de Ferney 10th October Common Moorhen Gallinula chloropus Seychelles Two Cousin Island and eight Curieuse Island 28th September. Grey Plover Pluvialis squatarola Seychelles Two Grand Anse beach Praslin 28th Sept and one at the same location 1st October Greater Sand Plover Charadrius leschenaultia Seychelles Three Grand Anse beach Praslin 28th Sept and one at the same location 1st October Mauritius One from the coast road 10th October Whimbrel Numenius phaeopus Seychelles One Grand Anse beach Praslin 28th Sept. One West coast of Mahe 2nd October Mauritius Three from the coast road 10th October Common Greenshank Tringa nebularia Seychelles One Grand Anse beach Praslin 1st October Common Sandpiper Actitis hypoleucos Seychelles Two Grand Anse beach Praslin 28th Sept and one at the same location 1st October Ruddy Turnstone Arenaria interpres Seychelles Fifteen Grand Anse beach Praslin 28th Sept and twenty at the same location 1st October Sanderling Calidris alba Seychelles Twenty Grand Anse beach Praslin 28th Sept and ten at the same location 1st October Greater Crested Tern Thalasseus bergii Seychelles Three Grand Anse beach Praslin 28th Sept and two at the same location 1st October. Five West Coast of Mahe 3rd October. Brown Noddy Anous stolidus Seychelles One from the boat on route to Cousin Island 29th September Reunion Two hundred on the 13th and about fifty on the 15th at Etang Sale les Bains during a two hour seawatch between 4 and 6pm Lesser Noddy Anous tenuirostris Seychelles Common on Cousin Island 29th September. Twenty from the ferry to La Digue 30th September Reunion

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Three hundred on the 13th and about one hundred on the 15th at Etang Sale les Bains during a two hour seawatch between 4 and 6pm Bridled Tern Onychoprion anaethetus Seychelles Two from the boat on route to Cousin Island 29th September Sooty Tern Onychoprion fuscatus Mauritius Seventy during a sea watch from La Roche Qui Pleure 11th October White Tern Gygis alba Seychelles Common on Cousin Island and a few at sea 29th September. Small numbers on La Digue 30th September Rock Dove Columba livia Small numbers seen on all Islands Malagasy Turtle Dove Nesoenas picturata Seychelles Seen daily. The closest to the true Seychelles form were on Curieuse Island which had dark heads and chestnut backs Mauritius Seen daily in small numbers Reunion Not as common as on the other Islands with only one or two being seen daily Pink Pigeon Nesoenas mayeri Mauritius Three Savanna Trail 9th October with five there on the 11th Up to ten near Le Petrin Entrance 10th October and a similar number on the 11th Seychelles Blue Pigeon Alectroenas pulcherrimus Seychelles Seen daily on all Islands with a maximum of up fifteen Spotted Dove Spilopelia chinensis Mauritius Common Zebra Dove Geopelia striata Common an all the Islands Seychelles Black Parrot Coracopsis barklyi Seychelles Four at the entrance to Vallee De Mai 28th Sept. Three at the same location 30th September Echo Parakeet Psittacula eques Mauritius Macchabe trail - eight seen or heard 10th four seen or heard 11th and five seen or heard 12th October Seychelles Scops Owl Otus insularis Seychelles Two seen and one heard Morne Seychelles National Park 2nd October Seychelles Swiftlet Aerodramus elaphrus Seychelles Two Grand Anse beach and ten Vallee De Mai Praslin 28th Sept. Two La Digue and two Vallee De Mai 30th September

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Mascarene Swiftlet Aerodramus francicus Mauritius Seen daily at all altitudes Reunion Although seen daily was in smaller numbers than on Mauritius Mascarene Martin Phedina borbonica Mauritius Six Grand Bassin 9th October. One at Petrin 10th October and 12th October Reunion Two La Roche Erite above the Gite 14th October and one between Brule and St Denis 16th October Seychelles Magpie-Robin Copsychus sechellarum Seychelles Three Cousin Island 29th September Reunion Stonechat Saxicola tectes Reunion Common seen at all locations at all altitudes even in the sparsely vegetated volcano area Seychelles Warbler Acrocephalus sechellensis Seychelles Four Cousin Island 29th September Rodrigues Warbler Acrocephalus rodericanus Rodrigues A total of five seen around the Solitude Forest Station 12th October Seychelles Paradise Flycatcher Terpsiphone corvina Seychelles A total of eight birds on La Digue 30th September Mauritius Paradise Flycatcher Terpsiphone bourbonnensis Mauritius One Bassin Blanc 9th October and 11th October Reunion Paradise Flycatcher Terpsiphone bourbonnensis Reunion Up to six seen daily La Roche Ecrite Seychelles Bulbul Hypsipetes crassirostris Seychelles Seen daily. Appeared common in the forest but was also seen in gardens Reunion Bulbul Hypsipetes borbonicus Reunion Small numbers seen daily at all locations though preferred the wooded slopes Mauritius Bulbul Hypsipetes olivaceus Mauritius One Grand Bassin 9th October. One Le Petrin entrance and two Macchabe trail 12th October Red-whiskered Bulbul Pycnonotus jocosus Abundant on Mauritius much smaller numbers on Reunion Island Reunion Grey White-eye Zosterops borbonicus Fairly common La Roche Ecrite. Also seen along the N3 and drive to the Volcano Mauritius Grey White-eye Zosterops mauritianus

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Mauritius Common in the lower parts of the Black River Gorges National Park. Abundant Bras D’Eau National Park Seychelles White-eye Zosterops modestus Stunning views of two La Misere area 2nd October Reunion Olive White-eye Zosterops olivaceus Fairly common La Roche Ecrite. Also seen along the N3 and drive to the Volcano Mauritius Olive White-eye Zosterops chloronothos Mauritius Two Bassin Blanc 9th October and 11th October Seychelles Sunbird Cinnyris dussumieri Seychelles Common on all Islands with up to fifty seen daily Mauritius Cuckooshrike Coracina typica Mauritius One at the Macchabe Lookout 10th October. Two Macchabe trail 11th and three 12th October Reunion Cuckooshrike Coracina newtoni La Roche Ecrite Two seen and two others heard 14th October. On seen and two heard 16th October. Common Myna Acridotheres tristis Common on all the Islands especially at lower altitudes Red Fody Foudia madagascariensis Seychelles Very common on all the islands Mauritius Up to twenty seen daily Reunion Small numbers seen mainly at lower altitudes Mauritius Fody Foudia rubra Mauritius A total of two pairs Savanna trail 9th October Seychelles Fody Foudia sechellarum Seychelles Up to ten see in the two hour visit to Cousin Island but only one with any yellow on the throat Rodrigues Fody Foudia flavicans Rodrigues A total of about eight birds seen plus others heard Solitude Forest Station 12th October Village Weaver Ploceus cucullatus Mauritius Twenty Le Petrin 9th and 10th October House Sparrow Passer domesticus Mauritius Up to ten Le Petrin 10th October Reunion Small numbers seen daily Common Waxbill Estrilda astrild Mauritius

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Up to six daily Yellow-fronted Canary Crithagra mozambica Mauritius Two Le Petrin entrance 12th October Rodrigues Two Solitude Forest Station 12th October

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General Photos

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