Home-DzineIDEAS AND INSPIRATION FOR YOUR HOME

October 2012

online

Craft • DIY • Food • Green • Home Decor & Design

143D DECOREco-friendly decorating alternative

Home-Dzine Online is written and compiled by Janice Anderssen. All projects in this issue, or any other issue, remain the property of Home-Dzine and Janice Anderssen, or the respective copyright holders, and may not be copied or reproduced in any manner whatsoever without written permission.

Now that spring has arrived we can spend more time outdoors. Set up a workbench, dust off your power tools and get stuck in with some of the great projects featured in this issue. And spruce up your indoors and outdoors too - with bright, bold colour this season.

Enjoy!

Janice

a word or two

5 BE BOLD & BEAUTIFULAdd colour to living spaces

17MODERN BED FRAMEMake your own bed frame

21DESIGNER HEADBOARDMatching headboard for bed frame

25 SHABBY CHIC HUTCHMake our distressed hutch

33 CRAFT & HOBBY ORGANISEROrganise your craft supplies

38 DIY CUSTOM STOOLSDIY stools to your requirements

43 REPURPOSED T-SHIRTSTrendy scarves for nothing

48 KEEP YOUR COOLOutdoor shade options

49 ANYTIME-ANYWHERE SNACK Bruschetta recipes

52 DIY KIDSHalloween horrors

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decor and designBE BOLD & BEAUTIFUL

Stroll through any home decor store and you will discover a kaleidoscope of textures, styles and colours. Not for the fainthearted, bold colour can be beautiful and exciting. But would you dare...?

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BE BOLD & BEAUTIFUL

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Since owning my very first home, I was always afraid to experiment with colour. Mycolour scheme consisted of beige and brown. It is only recently, and with the launch of Home-Dzine, that I have come to love colour. Adding colour to your living spaces uplifts and adds a hint of fun and excitement. With a bold red entrance and turquoise feature wall as you enter, there’s definitely no beige and brown to be seen.

Take advantage of Plascon’s eco-friendly paint options and the gorgeous fabrics we have at our disposal and wrap your home in colour.

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ABOVE: Plascon’s 2013 Palette allows you to choose the perfect colours for your lifestyle. The Pause Palette is hot off the catwalk. Pastel colours have been a highlight of many designer collections on the catwalk, These soft washes of colour look as beautiful on walls as they do on furniture. This palette of pastels is calming and uplifting and can be easily introduced to a scheme, as they work well with neutrals and greys.

PREVIOUS PAGE: Boost up the colour with Plascon’s Dare Palette. These zinc toned brights are energy-boosting, without being manic and are great for colour-blocking and feature walls.

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Grab a can or two of Rust-Oleum 2X UltraCover and spray on glorious colour wherever you want it. The new formulation can be applied to plastics, wood, wicker, metal, plaster or unglazed ceramic. Fast-dry formula resists chipping and fading.

Find Rust-Oleum on the shelf at your local BUILDERS WAREHOUSE

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Outdoors is just as important as indoors. Open up the doors and use paint and fabric to create a seamless living space from your home into your garden. Many fabric stores offer a range of weatherproof or exterior fabrics that can be used to enhance your outdoor living. Fabric from Home Fabrics. (www.hf.co.za)

“INSIDE OUT” is woven with 100% solution dyed acrylic yarns, giving the consumer a 5 year limited warranty against fading from harmful UV rays.

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3D Board offers a collection of chic designs that offer personality and style to any home.

With 3D Board it’s so easy to create a feature wall or add impact.

Manufactured from moulded bamboo fibre- making this product environmentally friendly, the lightweight and durable panels are easy to install for the average DIY enthusiast.

Simply fix the tiles to thewall with contact adhesive or No More Nails. Seal the panelled wall with primer and paint in your choice of colour. As simple as that!

At a time when we all want to do our best to protect our planet here is a product that provides high quality, interior decoration possibilities that will enhance, not harm, the environment.

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3D DECOR

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The design applications of 3D BOARD are limited only by your imagination and it can be utilized to create high impact feature walls or a more subtle and subdued atmosphere of elegance and refinement.

3D Board marks the beginning of a new trend of wall furnishings. Feature walls no longer need to be restricted to a mere splash of colour since this product provides a cost effective way to create just the right atmosphere in any room of your home or business.

3D Board combines cutting edge technology with environmentally friendly recycled plant and bamboo fibre to produce a cleaner,greener product.

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Making your own bed frame and headboard is much easier than you think. In this project Nate and Michelle from decor and the dog show you how simple it is to make a modern bed frame and headboard using some PAR pine and a few basic tools.

YOU WILL NEED:2 of 20 x 150 x 1520mm - top/bottom ends1 of 20 x 76 x 1520mm - bottom end base2 of 20 x 150 x 1930mm - sides4 of 20 x 76 x 400mm legs2 of 20 x 200 x 200mm - corner braces1 of 20 x 76 x

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BED FRAME

BOTTOM FRAME

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1. With all your pieces cut to size and pre-painted it’s easy to assemble everything. Use the diagrams on the previous page to assemble the bottom frame of the bed using a pockethole jig.

NOTE: If you don’t own a pockethole jig you can substitute with dowels, biscuits or screw through the outside of the frame; drill pilot holes and countersink for all screws, fill with wood filler and thensand smooth.

2. Join the side frames to the bottom frame, also using a pockethole jig. Again you can substitute if you don’t have a pockethole jig.

Use corner clamps or quick clamps to hold the frame sections together as you join.

3. Attach the corner supports at the bottom of each frame section, first in the frontcorner and then the opposite corner. These corner supports help to square the bed and provide additional strength.

The easiest way to make the corner supports is to have a block cut to square, draw a diagonal line from corner to corner and then cut along this line.

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4. This next step looks at how to attach the side rails and centre bar that support the slats fittedto the top of the frame.

5. The side rails are glued and screwed to the inside of the frame, making sure to leave enough space for the slats to leave a gap for placing the mattress on top.

6. The centre support is attached using pocketholes and wood glue.

7. The individual slats are screwed to both side rails and the centre support. Leave a 100mm gap between each slat.

NOTE: I’m not a big fan of using slats as mattress supports, and if you prefer you can have PG Bison 16mm Bisonbord cut to size to replace the slats.

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Square DESIGN HeadboardTo finish off your new. modern bed frame you need a headboard. This square designheadboard fits perfectly with the style of the bed frame and you can make in a daywith the right tools and materials.

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YOU WILL NEED:

2 of 44 x 44 x 1200mm2 of 44 x 44 x 1432mm1 of 20 x 76 x 1432mm8 of 20 x 44 x 150mm pine 8 of 20 x 44 x 596mm pine8 of 20 x 44 x 200mm pine8 of 20 x 44 x 100mm pineWood glueWood filler3,5 x 30mm wood screws

The secret to this headboard design is to construct the frame, build the individual centre sections and then put everything together.

1. Assemble the frame as shown in the diagram on the next page. Use a pockethole jig to join the top, bottom and base sections to the side rails. All pocketholes will be at the back of the frame, so as not to be visible.

2. Join together the various pieces to as-semble the inner decorative sections. Each section is made individually and then attached to the frame. Pre-drill each section with a pockethole jig on both side ends.

3. Fit each decorative section within the frame as shown left.

NOTE: If you don’t have a pockethole jig, the main frame can be joined using wood glue and corner braces at the back of the frame. The decorative sections can be glued and clamped until dry and then attached within the frame by screwing through the top, bottom and sides.

TOOLSPockethole jigDrill/Driver plus assorted bitsOrbital sander plus 240-grit sanding pads

NOTE: The measurements supplied are for a queen-size headboard that only has four decorative panels.

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1200mm

1520mm

100mm

300mm

936mm

20 x 76mm

150mm

150mm

200mm

596mm100mm

100mm

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Shabby Chic inspired hutchMy love of Shabby Chic furniture allows me to enjoy designing custom furniture for clients. This large 2-piece hutch was recently commissioned and manufactured to take pride of place in a large, open plan kitchen.

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YOU WILL NEED:

A 2 16mm SupaWood 550 1500 top/base - top cabinetB 2 16mm SupaWood 550 968 sides - top cabinetC 2 16mm SupaWood 400 1468 shelves - top cabinetD 2 16mm SupaWood 50 1000 side frames - top cabinetE 2 16mm SupaWood 693 996 doors - top cabinetF 6 Moulding 50 2400 door trim top & baseG 1 16mm SupaWood 580 1520 top - bottom cabinetH 2 16mm SupaWood 550 1468 top/base - bottom cabinetI 2 16mm SupaWood 550 768 sides - bottom cabinetJ 1 16mm Supawood 550 1468 drawer supportK 4 16mm SupaWood 98 724 drawer frontL 4 16mm SupaWood 90 534 drawer sidesM 4 16mm SupaWood 90 692 drawer front/backN 2 16mm SupaWood 502 692 drawer base

For the 16mm SupaWood it’s important to stress the importance of using PG Bison SupaWood if you want a smooth finish and not have to spend hours sanding the sur-face before painting.

Chicken wireWood glue3 x 30mm wood screws4 x 45mm wood screws8 hinges and small screwsPine or SupaWood moulding*No More Nails adhesiveModo low-sheen PVA in your choice of colour

Drill/Driver and assorted bitsCountersink bitJigsaw and clean-cut bladeStaple gun and 8mm heavy-duty staplesHammerQuick clampsBosch PFS spray system of painting equipmentTape measure and pencil

*See Top Section Doors re moulding width

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Top Section Frame

1. The top section of the hutch comprises a basic frame with two sides mounted between the top and bottom sections. To attach the sides, drill pilot holes and countersink through the top and bottom into the sides and drive in 4 x 45mm screws.

NOTE: It’s important to countersink as these holes will later be filled in andsanded smooth.

2. Adding the shelves is the next step. You can either screw these into place, or drill holes for shelf pins to have adjustable shelves.

If screwing into position you will need to measure and mark on both the inside and outside of the side frame sections. If you are working on your own, turn the entire section onto it’s side to make it easier.

Again, drill pilot holes and countersink through the outside of the frame sides to mount the shelves.

3. The next step is to add the front side panels. The two front side panels are mounted on top of the frame. You will drill pilot holes and countersink before using 3 x 30mm screws to attach the side panels.

NOTE: All joined sections are glued in addition to using screws.

4. With the side panels on you can add the hinges. Mark down 100mm from the top and up 100mm from the bottom to position and attach the hinges on the inside edge of each side panel.

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Here is a view of the top section after assembly. You can see the screws in the side frame to attach the inside shelves.

Also note that the inside shelves are not as wide as the top and bottom sections. However, you can make these wide if you wish.

Top Section Doors

The two doors for the top section are fitted with chicken wire. To makethe doors you will need to cut out a rectangle in each door (***** x ****), leaving a frame that is as wide as the moulding you will add. My frame is 50mm wide and the moulding is 50mm wide... perfect!

NOTE: Paint the door frame and moulding before assembly.

1. Cut the chicken wire slightly larger - about 20mm all around - and use a staple gun to attach the wire to each door frame that you have cut. Staple the top and bottom first and then thesides, pulling gentle as you staple.

NOTE: You will find that the staples will notgo completely into the board and this is where the hammer comes in play. Tap the staples flat.

2. Cut the moulding to length with mitred corners to fit perfectly over the topof the chicken wire. Glue into place with No More Nails and clamp until the adhesive is set.

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Here’s a view of the frames once finished.

If there are any gaps between the joints - at the mitred corners or around the edge between the frame and the moulding - fill this in with No More Nails adhesive.

Wipe off any excess with a slightly damp cloth.

3. I sanded and painted all the completed sections after assembly, but for the purpose of this project, sand and paint the top section before attaching the doors.

As you can see, I spray all my furniture using a Bosch PFS spray system. Not only does it use less paint, it also leaves a smooth finish that is excellent forpainting any furniture project.

NOTE: It isn’t necessary to apply primer as the spray gun applies a light coat that serves as an undercoat or primer coat.

4. Once the paint is dry you can attach the doors onto the hinges mounted on the side frames. See Top Section Frame point 4 above.

5. Finish off the top cabinet by drilling and attaching your door knobs.

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Bottom Section Frame

The bottom section of the hutch differs slightly in design, as the side panels have a cut out at the bottom.

1. Measure up and in 100mm from each corner on both side panels and draw a line across before cutting this section out with a jigsaw.

2. Measure up 100mm on the inside of both side panels and mark. Use this mark to attach the base. Drill pilot holes and countersink through the side panels to attach the base. Repeat this for the top.

3. The bottom section has two drawers are the top and you need to mark down from under the top panel 100mm on both sides. Use this mark to mount the drawer support and then attach the centre section.

4. Attach the top; drilling pilot holes and countersink before driving in screws along the edge and then attach the front side panels as per the top section.

5. You can add moulding or cut your own detail for decorative effect. Any detail is simply glued and screwed underneath the base.

You will find a fairlycomprehensive selection of moulding and trim that you can add to your furniture at your local Builders Warehouse.

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Bottom Section Doors

1. Make up the doors by gluing 6mm SupaWood frames around the edge of the door back. These corners are not mitred as shown right.

Fill in any gaps with No More Nails adhesive.

2. Make up the drawer sections. Paint the drawer front before screwing onto the drawer section.

3. As with the top section, I sanded and painted all the completed sections after assembly, but for the purpose of this project, sand and paint the top section before attaching the doors.

4. Attach hinges and doors as per Top Section Frame and Doors previously.

Bottom Section Drawers

1. Glue and screw the drawer frame together. The base fits inside the frameand is glued and screwed in place.

2. Spray paint the front of the drawer and attach to the frame once the glue and paint is dry.

Attach your choice of handle.

After painting is complete, attach a white-fronted masonite backing board to the top and bottom sections.

sides

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Here is a side view of the completed cabinet. Notice how to top on the base section sticks out slightly and that I have added additional moulding to the top section.

After assembly is finished and painting isdone you can distress the piece to your liking.

This hutch was only given a light distressing and I used a Dremel MultiMax and 120-grit sandpaper to distress. Only a gentle stroke over edges and corners is needed.

Have the Dremel MultiMax on a medium speed setting to sand.

Alternatively, you can sand with sandpa-per for the same effect.

The entire piece is then rubbed down with Woodoc Antique Wax.

Woodoc Antique Wax is perfect for finishing off ShabbyChic, distressed or whitewashed furniture. It provides a satin-smooth finish that protects.

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craft & hobby organiser

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This craft and hobby organiser is perfect for controlling clutter and keeping all your craft and hobby supplies handy. The organiser features shelves, drawers and a place to hang wrapping paper or fabric.

YOU WILL NEED:

All board is PG Bison 16mm SupaWood*2 x 250 x 1000mm - sides2 x 250 x 768mm - top/bottom shelf1 x 250 x 368mm - shelf1 x 250 x 416mm - shelf1 x 250 x 266mm - centre divider1 x 250 x 150mm - drawer divider1 x 798 x 996 of 3mm masonite - backing board3 x 18mm diameter x 800mm long pine dowels3 x 30mm wood screwsWood fillerWood glueTape measure and pencilTOOLSDrill/Driver plus assorted bitsCountersink bit18mm spade bitClampsJigsaw and clean-cut jigsaw bladeOrbital sander plus 120- & 240-grit sanding padsStaple gun and 8mm staples or steel tacks

*We specify PG Bison SupaWood for this project, as this board has a smooth finish that is ideal forpainting. Ask for SupaWood at your local Builders Warehouse or timber merchant.

You will find everything you need for this project

at your local Builders Warehouse.

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1000mm

250mm800mm

NOTE: The dimensions of this craft organiser are 1000mm(H) x 800mm(W) x 250mm(D). You can alter these measurements as required.

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250mm

452mm

266mm

100mm

150mm

416mm368mm

1. Use a jigsaw to round off the top and bottom outside corners on both sides.

Attach the sides to the top and bottom shelves. Do this by measuring and marking as shown and then drill pilot holes, countersink and drive screws through the sides into the shelf edges.

2. With the shelves in place it’s now easier to add the centre support and horizontal shelf dividers. Drill pilot holes through the top and bottom of the shelf supports, countersink and drive screws through the top and bottom supports to attach the centre support.

3. Measure 300mm from the side to mount the cubby centre support as shown left.

4. Make up the individual storage drawers. One drawer is 100mm wide x 150mm high and the second drawer is 300mm wide x 150mm high. Attach handles or pulls to the drawers as required.

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5. To fit the dowels for holding wrappingpaper of rolls of ribbon, use a Dremel Trio or router to cut out 3 slots - on each side - 18mm wide and 8mm deep.

At the inside edge of this slot, use an 18mm spade bit to drill a hole to a depth of 8mm.

This slot will allow insertion of dowels that can be easily slotted in and out.

6. After finishing - see below - staple or tack a 3mm masonite backing board to the craft organiser.

FINISHING

You can paint the entire assembly using acrylic paint or you can use Rust-Oleum 2X UltraCover spray paint.

If you have a Bosch PFS spray system, this is ideal for spraying furniture projects.

Try the new range of Modo paints at your local Builders Warehouse.

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The idea of being able to make my own stools really appeals to me. Being a bit of a shorty, it’s not easy to find stools that I can easily andcomfortably sit on.

You can modify these stools to any height - and any bum size - to fit perfectlyinto your home.

Another plus for making these stylish stools is the fact that you can buy all the materials you need at your local Builders Warehouse and it will only cost around R300 to make all three.

My thanks to lazy liz on less for this project

DIY CUSTOMSTOOLS

YOU WILL NEED:

2 of 1.8 metres 44 x 44mm PAR pine*2 of 1,8 metres 20 x 44mm PAR pine2 of 270 x 380mm pine - glued together for seat topWood fillerWood glueAcrylic paint or Rust-Oleum 2X spray paint

TOOLSPockethole jig (or substitute with steel corner/angle bracesDrill/Driver plus assorted bitsOrbital Sander plus 120- and 240-grit sanding padsWood chiselCircular saw or Dremel SawMax

*The stool legs in this project are 760mm in length, but you can modify the length to suit the height you require.

The Kreg Pockethole Jig is probably one of the handiest tools you can have for DIY furniture projects

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380mm270mm

760mm

150mm

190mm

230mm

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1. At the top of each leg cut a 5 degree angle as shown in the diagram below.

2. Cut a 5-degree angle in all cross strips as shown in the diagram below.

3. Use a pockethole jig to drill a single pockethole at both ends of all the cross strips and then, starting at the top, attach these to the legs.

4. Once all the cross pieces are attached to the legs, your stool should look something like the one shown on the left.

NOTE: The stool was originally designed with single 20mm-thick pine legs. However, it is far better to use 44 x 44mm or 50 x 50mm PAR pine for the legs. The project measurements allow for 44 x 44mm legs, but adjust if you plan to use 50 x 50mm legs.

5 degree angle at top of each leg

5 degree angle on both sides of cross strips

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5. The curvy top adds to the overall design on the stool and makes them more comfortable.

To achieve this shape, I adjusted my circular saw blade to varying depths cut the wood. Chip away excess wood with a wood chisel.

If you have a Dremel SawMax, this tool is ideal for cutting grooves of varying depths and far easier than using a circular saw.

6. Use a sharp wood chisel to chip away the wood along the cut lines. If you have never used a wood chisel before, this project will definitely give you plenty ofpractice!

7. With the outline now taking shape, you can use a sander and 120-grit sanding pads to give it a smooth shape and then use 240-grit sanding pads to finish off.

8. Attach the seat to the base of the stool with steel angle brackets mounted to the underside of the seat and the frame of the legs and cross supports.

9. Use wood filler to fill in pocketholes, or a mixture and wood glue and sawdust from the chipping. Leave to dry and then sand smooth.

Paint the stools with acrylic paint and a paintbrush in your

choice of colour, or grab a can of Rust-Oleum to add colour

the easy way!

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There are plenty of ways to repurpose old clothes. One of my favourites is the popular trend for making scarves with old t-shirts and jersey weaves. You can create your own designer scarves for nothing but a little imagination.

Designer scarves

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1. Cut the bottom hem off at to create a straight line along the bottom.

2. Cut 2cm strips across the shirt all the way up to the armpits. No need be perfect about it, once you stretch out the strips, you’ll never notice.

I got 17 strips out of my shirt - you may get more or less depending on how long the shirt & how wide your strips.

3. Stretch out the strips to make them about the same length. You’d have to stretch really hard in order to break or rip them, so no need to be gentle.

4. Since, I had a shirt with seams, I wanted to hide the seams underneath the wrapping. I also didn’t want the seams to create a giant lumps, so when I gathered the loops I spread the seams out a bit and then tried to get the loops as straight and untangled as a I could. I used 16 of my loops.

5. With the 17th loop, I cut it in half at the seams to use as the wrapper on either end. First I tucked the strip into the loops and then started wrapping tightly and *neatly* to cover the seams. At the end of the wrapping, I did some creative knot to tie it off. Then I used the other half of the strip to do the other side.

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glorious gardeningForget black... now you can add colour to your patio with the new range of Weber charcoal braais in a selection of trendy colours.

The ever popular 57cm Weber Charcoal braai now comes in bone, grey, lemon grass and brick red.

Not only now in colour, these family favourites have a variety of new

features for the braai enthusiast. The lid-mounted thermometer

ensures perfect cooking temperature, while the

protective heat shield keeps you cool while cooking.

Check out these new models online at www.weber.co.za

For camping enthusiasts and those that like to braai on the move, you can also get the Weber® Smokey Joe ® in gold sage and turquoise.

With it’s large 37cm cooking area, the portable braai is perfect for outdoor holidays and evening braais on the beach.

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Here are a few ways to keep your cool this summer:

Shade is a smart, natural way to lower the temperature in an outdoor setting.

You can find plenty of options for creating shade at your local Builders Warehouse; from simple and temporary solutions like umbrellas, to more permanent and decorative tactics such as retractable awnings.

You can even use nature to create shade by strategically positioning trees and shrubs or vine-covered trellises. When considering shade options, keep in mind the time of day your outdoor space gets the most sun and position shade elements accordingly.

What you sit on can be just as important to your cooling comfort as where you sit. To minimise heat absorption, choose outdoor furnishings that will enhance

coolness such as pieces upholstered in light fabrics or naturally breathable materials like wicker. Avoid metal, which will heat up in the sun, or darker-hued wood or vinyl furniture, since dark colours absorb more sunlight and will make your seating area feel hotter.

Summer temperatures are on the increase and depending on where you live, this summer could be shaping up to be a scorcher for you. As temperatures climb, many of us retreat indoors. However, it is possible to enjoy being outside throughout the sultry months if you take a few steps to keep your outdoor living spaces as cool as possible.

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food fun

Bruschetta is one of those great social foods because of the friendly informality it inspires in your guests. Pretty much anything tastes great when dolloped on top of a garlicky slice of baguette.

anytime - anywhere snacks

The perfect stylish snack to serve at a cocktail party, bruschetta is also lovely to take along to a braai – just toast the bread on the grid and allow everyone to do the rest. Build-your-own-bruschetta has a nice ring to it!

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3 delicious bruschetta ideas

1. Parma Ham & Minted Peas

Ingredients:

2 cups frozen peas½ cup fresh mint1 lemon, zested1 Tbsp extra virgin olive oil6 slices Parma ham2 cloves garlic, mincedSalt and freshly ground black pepper to taste1 baguette or similar1/4 cup olive oil

• Method:

Prepare the minted peas first. Parboil the peasfor half a minute in water that has just boiled

but has been taken off the hot stove. Drain. Place in a blender with fresh mint, lemon zest, a dash of olive oil and salt and pepper to taste. Blend until combined but still chunky. Allow to cool.

Preheat the grill on medium-high. Cut the baguette diagonally into 1cm thick slices. Place the bread slices, in a single layer, on a baking tray and season with salt and pepper and a good drizzle of olive oil. Cook under the grill for 1-2 minutes on each side or until toasted. Rub 1 garlic clove, peeled and halved, over one side of each piece of toast.

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2. Bruschetta with tomato and basil

• Ingredients:

1 baguette or similar2 garlic cloves, peeled and halved4 ripe large tomatoes, finely chopped or twohandfuls of cherry tomatoes, halved½ red onion, finely chopped¼ cup basil pesto¼ cup fresh basil1/4 cup olive oilSalt and pepper, to taste

• Method:

Preheat the grill on medium-high. Cut the baguette diagonally into 1cm thick slices. Place the slices, in a single layer, on a baking tray and season with salt and pepper and a good drizzle of olive oil. Cook under the grill for 1-2 minutes on each side or until toasted. Rub 1 garlic clove, peeled and halved, over 1 side of each piece of toast.

Combine the tomatoes, onion and remaining garlic (finely sliced or minced) in a smallbowl. Drizzle with a little olive oil.

Place the bread on a serving platter. Either place the tomato topping and pesto in a bowl separately with a spoon for people to serve themselves, or place a spoonful of topping on

each slice of bread with a dollop of pesto and fresh basil to serve. If you top each slice with the tomatoes, do it right before serving so that the bread does not get soggy.

3. Bruschetta with humus, avocado and marinated artichokes

• Ingredients:

1 cup humus1 ripe avocado, peeled and sliced8 marinated artichokes, quarteredSalt and freshly ground black pepper to taste1 baguette or similar1/4 cup olive oil

• Method:

Preheat grill on medium-high. Cut the baguette diagonally into 1cm thick slices. Place the bread slices, in a single layer, on a baking tray and season with salt and pepper and a good drizzle of olive oil. Cook under grill for 1-2 minutes on each side or until toasted. Rub 1 garlic clove, peeled and halved, over one side of each piece of toast.

Place bread on a serving platter. Generously spread each slice with humus, top with avocado slices and artichokes. Season with salt and pepper and serve immediately.

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HALLOWEEN HORRORS!Ask mom for a pack of pot scourers and make up a collection of Halloween horrors to scare family and friends. You will need to look around for items that you can use to stick on to make wings and feet, or other body parts to make your creatures as scary as can be.

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1. Paint the pot scourers in different colours using craft paint and a paintbrush.

2. Make eyes, ears and noses from cut out cardboard and coloured paper.

3. Use a hot glue gun on low heat setting to stick the eyes and noses onto the scourers.

6. Glue pieces of cotton twine onto the sponges for arms and legs.

7. Look around the house for items that you can use for feet and other body parts, such as wings, and glue these onto the scourer as well.

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More great projects for you to make and take homeBeginners & Advanced Workshops

Basic Electrical and Plumbing WorkshopsBasic Welding | Career Workshops

Every Saturday morning from 09:00 to 12:00

www.DIY-DIVAS.co.za

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IF YOU ARE TACKLING ANY TYPE OF DECORATING, HOME IMPROVEMENT OR DIY PROJECT - WE WANT TO KNOW! IN FACT, WE WANT TO SHARE YOUR PROJECT AND ENTER YOU INTO THE QUARTERLY DRAW FOR BOSCH, SKILL AND DREMEL TOOL HAMPERS.

ALL YOU HAVE TO DO IS USE YOUR BOSCH, SKIL OR DREMEL TOOLS TO MAKE, REPAIR OR INSTALL AND SEND US A FEW ‘BEFORE’ AND ‘AFTER’ PICS. THEN TELL US HOW YOU TACKLED THE PROJECT.

SEND IMAGES AND DETAILS TO: home-dzine@iburst.co.za