Home-DzineIDEAS AND INSPIRATION FOR YOUR HOME

February 2013

online

Craft • Decorating • DIY • Green • Decor & Design

NATURALSTONE FLOORS

marieburgosdesign.com

Happy Valentine’s Day

Home-Dzine Online is written and compiled by Janice Anderssen. All projects in this issue, or any other issue, remain the property of Home-Dzine and Janice Anderssen, or the respective copyright holders, and may not be copied or reproduced in any manner whatsoever without written permission.

In keeping with the new format to offer more... Here are more DIY project, more home repairs, and more home maintenance tasks to keep you busy...!

Please get more involved in the magazine if you can. I am sure that readers would love to be able to see your DIY or home improvement projects - no matter how small. My goal is to make Home-Dzine.co.za and Home-Dzine Online the ‘Go To’ sources for anything and everything DIY.

Janice

a word or two

6 NATURAL STONE FLOORSKeeping floors looking good

15 DIY MOBILE STORAGEMake a mobile shelf unit

19 DIY UPHOLSTERED BEDMake your own bed and upholster it

25 USES FOR PLARNUse plastic bags in unique ways

34 SAVE R350 IN 10-MINUTES Home repairs you can do

37 DIY BATHROOM VANITYEasy, stylish bathroom vanity

43 NEW WAYS TO CRACK OPEN A BOTTLE

48 MAKE YOUR OWN CANDLESGreat gift idea to make

51 GARDEN SANCTUARYEasy ways to add privacy

64 PAINT YOUR HOME COOLwith Plascon Nuroof Cool

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Natural stone offers a durable and hard-wearing solution for floors. It complements any style of decor from rustic to contemporary.

When properly installed and maintained, natural stone floors are an investment for any home.

decor and design2013 Gauteng HOMEMAKERS Expo

28/02/2013 - 03/03/2013 at The Coca-Cola Dome, Northriding

This South African favourite is still the country’s largest, multi-award winning home interest expo where visitors can research, speak to experts, and satisfy a myriad of home related needs, all under one roof!

Furniture and Décor feature companies demonstrating design solutions for ‘Small Spaces • Big Living’. The area also hosts an inspiring Decorator’s Challenge, ‘Divide & Conquer’, 6 room sets by a hand-picked group of well-known and up-and-coming decorators and designers.

The latest in grand Kitchen design including space saving features and appliances is being presented by The Kitchen Specialists Association.

Join the experts from Builders Warehouse at the interactive Builders DIY Theatre and catch up on the latest trends for DIY and home improvement with talks from leading product suppliers.

Glade is bringing a 4th dimension to design with the Glade Sensorium feature, which will enhance your sensory experience.

Delicious is back by popular demand; a feature area that presents tantalising tastes.

DETAILS:

28 February – 3 March 2013 - The Coca-Cola Dome, Northriding

Thursday & Friday: 10:00 to 19:00Saturday & Sunday: 09:00 to 18:00

R80 for adults|R50 for pensioners|Children under 12 free

For more information or to book your stand phone 0861 11 HOME/4663 or jhb@homemakers-sa.co.za

Win a Home Make-Over with HOMEMAKER Expo valued at R200 000!

Look out for more details as presented across 30 DStv channels during the month of February.

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I have black and multi-coloured slate tiles throughout my house which were laid over 15 years ago. The

tiles are installed in my kitchen, dining room, entrance and on the stairs. The entire project was a DIY endeavour that I swore I would never do again, but after the initial installation in the dining room... I did.

For me, personally, natural stone tiles are hard enough to take the knocks of everyday living of a family complete with an entourage of pets. I don’t spend my life cleaning the tiles, but do undertake maintenance every 12 to 18 months.

TOUGHfloors

Why slate tiles?Natural stone tiles are warmer underfoot than ceramic tiles and should they chip, it’s not an obvious defect that needs to be fixed. Plus, natural stone tiles are always available and can be removed and replaced if necessary.

Installing slate tilesInstalling natural floor tiles in itself is not a difficult project, other than the fact that these tiles are heavy.

You also need to use a cement-based tile adhesive as opposed to the standard ceramic tile adhesive. You can buy the cement-based adhesive from any natural stone tile supplier.

When tiling my dining room I selected the best starting point, which was at the entrance to the room, and did a dry layout from that point to

choose the best design. By starting away from the perimeter of a room, or away from walls, allows you to have complete tiles were they are more obvious and cut tiles around the perimeter and against the walls.

Cutting slate tilesThe preferred method of cutting natural stone tiles is either with an angle grinder or to hire a wet saw.

When installing the tiles in my dining room, I left gaps around the perimeter of the room to cut all these pieces in one go. This way you can hire a professional tile cutter for the day and cut all the tiles to finish off. Most tool hire companiesoffer a range of tilecutters. I know thatTalisman Hire havean extensive rangeto choose from.

Grouting tip

A grout bag - or icing bag - is easier for applying grout and means far less clean up at the end of the project.

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If you properly maintain a natural stone floor it will look good for a lifetime.

Whether your floors are slate, terra cotta, limestone, travertine, or similar natural stone tile, these tiles are porous when initially installed and need to be cleaned and sealed to prevent staining.

After the first sealing these floors only need to be cleaned as you would for ceramic tile for 12 to 18 months and then a maintenance can be performed to restore and refresh tiles.

TOUGHfloors

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Installing terra cotta tilesSmaller than many other natural stone tiles, terra cotta tiles are easy to install. Generally smaller in size terra cotta tiles are laid in exactly the same way as ceramic tiles, but using a cement-based adhesive to ensure a strong bond.

Cleaning terra cotta tilesAfter installation it is important to remove any grout before sealing tiles. Grout Off is a special blend of acids and detergents specifically formulated to remove grout and mortar residues from porous and non-porous surfaces.

Grout Off powerful formula makes it cost effective when diluted.

Grout off will not remove grouting that has been mixed with bonding liquid.

Stripping tilesThe purpose of stripping a floor is to remove previous sealer or polish from the floor in order to restore it to its original state, or as close to it as possible. This is done in order to reseal the tiles.

Mask off any areas that could be harmed by the stripped i.e. metal sliding door tracks, etc.

Ensure that the area is well ventilated.

Apply a liberal coat of stripper to a workable area that you will have enough time to scrub before the stripper dries out. Pour the stripper onto the floor and spread with a scrubbing pad.

Allow 3 to 5 min for the stripper to work before scrubbing. Do not disturb during this period. Do not allow the stripper to dry out. The longer you can wait for the stripper to work without drying out, the better.

Begin scrubbing and add water. The mixture should turn into a milky colour whilst you are scrubbing. Do not allow water onto the areas that still need to be stripped.

Mop up and rinse with clean water. The aim is to lift the solution off the floor - not wash the solution across the floor.

After stripping wash the whole area with a solution of Easy Clean diluted with water and then rinse well with fresh clean water.

Allow the floor to dry and inspect. The floor should be uniform in colour with no white residues.

Using a damp cloth, wipe the floor and check for uniformity. There should be no light or dark patches as this will indicate areas that are not completely stripped. If there be marks; the process must be repeated until an even finish is achieved.

Terra cotta tiles provide a natural warmth to a room with their natural

clay colour. Ideal for rustic, cottage or country home, terra cotta tiles are extremely durable, reasonably

warm underfoot and easy to maintain.

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Any sealer applied to tiled surfaces will degrade over time, leaving tiles looking dull and lifeless.

By stripping and sealing natural stone tiles you enhance the beauty of the tile and provide a stain resistant finish.

Natural Stone Sealer is a weather proof solvent based sealer system for natural stone and cement tiles. It is very simple to use and is suitable for most types of natural porous tiles.

The non-yellowing resin formula is designed for ease of application, protection offered and cost effectiveness.

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Sealing tilesThere are a variety of sealers that can be used on natural stone tiles to maintain the look and repel water and most oils.

Select the right one for your type of tile: Read all instructions and tips before application.

Mask off any adjacent surfaces that need to be protected and then test for desired results in an inconspicuous area before continuing the application.

Ensure that the tile is clean and free from all residues, detergents, grout, cement, oil, wax and other stains.

Ensure that the tile is totally dry before applying the sealer.

Using a suitable applicator, apply a thick, even coat of Invisible Sealer. Buff any excess sealer from the surface after 5 min using a clean terry/mutton cloth or paper towel.

Wait about 2 hours for the sealer to dry and then test to determine if the surface is totally sealed by applying water droplets to the surface. If water is absorbed (tile darkens), apply an additional coat. Wait 2 hours and repeat test.

Allow drying time before using the room. Cure time is 48 hours.

Use this sealer to enhance colour and provide a beautiful satin finish. Natural Stone Sealer is a breathable sealer. That means it may be applied to areas that have a slight hydrostatic pressure problem. It dries fast and cures quicker than most other un-accelerated sealers.

You will find the full range of TFC floor care products at your local Builders

Warehouse.

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TOUGHfloors

Handy tips for stripping and sealing natural stone tiles

• Remove excess grout from tiles before applying sealer.

• There are sealers for all types of natural stone tiles. Use the one specifically design for the tiles in your home.

• When applying sealer, do not use applicators that cause bubbles like paint rollers. Use a lint free cloth, paint pad or a sheepskin applicator to apply.

• Do not apply while the floor is still damp.

• Cure time is 48-hours, so do not allow water on the floor for 24 hours after sealing.

• Allow specified drying time before walking on or returning furniture to the room.

• Do not apply products to hot tiles in direct sunlight.

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PG Bison’s Melawood is the leading brand in decorative finishes. Using either BisonBord or SupaWood as a substrate, a single sheet of melamine-impregnated, decor paper is bonded to both the board’s surfaces under heat and pressure. This provides a durable, scratch and moisture resistant surface. MelaWood is suitable for medium duty vertical applications, such as door and drawer frontals, carcassing, furniture components and shelving. MelaWood is the ideal choice for kitchen, built-in-cupboard and case-goods applications.

First choice for DIY and Home Improvement

projects

STORAGESTORAGEON WHEELS

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Cutting List:

Qty Size Item18 386 x 380 x 9mm Box tops & bases6 386 x 330 x 9mm Bottom box sides6 386 x 140 x 9mm Middle box sides6 386 x 349 x 9mm Top box sides3 380 x 349 x 9mm Bottom box backs3 380 x 159 x 9mm Middle box backs3 380 x 219 x 9mm Top box backs2 1140 x 396 x 9mm Top & base1 1140 x 100 x 9mm Top back2 386 x 100 x 9mm Top sides2 846 x 396 x 9mm Sides1 1159 x 846 x 9mm Back

Buy 9mm pine or marine plywood at H & S Timbers or your local timber merchant.

You will need:

15mm panel pinsNo More Nails adhesive4 75mm castors (2 lockable) + screws4 trunk handles + screwsAluminium trim (Metals Centre) - 3mm flat bar: 1 of 1159mm and

2 of 407mm for top back and sides

- 3mm flat bar: 4 of 1119mm horizontals, 2 of 200mm top, 140mm middle and 330mm base verticals plus 846mm sides

- 3mm angle: 2 of 848mm verticals.

TOOLSHammerQuick clampsBelt sander + 120-grit sandpaperOrbital sander + 220-git sandpaperDrill/Driver + assorted bitsHacksaw for cutting aluminium

Designed for easy assembly this 1160mm long trolley consists of nine boxes stacked together then cladded with an outside layer to thicken the walls and add support. Build it from three and a half sheets of 9mm pine or marine plywood. Have the parts cut by the supplier for accuracy or DIY using a tablesaw. Make the boxes using simple butt joints secured with No More Nails adhesive and 15mm panel pins. Aluminium flat bar positioned along the edges contrasts with the plywood and disguises the joints. Cut the aluminium by clamping it in a vice between timber offcuts to avoid scratching the surface then use a hacksaw to cut by hand.

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UPHOLSTEREDLUXURY

You will need:

A. Frame top/bottom 2 of 200 x 1410mm (double bed) 2 of 200 x 1560mm (queen bed) 2 of 200 x 1870mm (king bed)B. Frame sides 200 x 1880mmC. Batten top/bottom 2 of 44 x 1374mm (double bed) 2 of 44 x 1524mm (queen bed) 2 of 44 x 1834mm (king bed)D. Batten sides 2 of 44 x 1840mmE. Horizontal supports 2 x 44 x 1840mmF. Base slats 24 of 76 x size of C

4 of choice of legs3,5 x 30mm smooth shank screwsWood glueCarpenter’s square2,5m lining for base (min 115cm wide)2,5m fabric for base (min 115cm wide)Medium-thicknes battingStaple gun and staplesBostik or Alcolin Sprayable adhesiveDrill/Driver plus assorted bitsCountersink bitTape measure and pencil

Make an upholstered bed out of a sheet of 18mm plywood, some PAR pine and your choice of fabric.

You can complete this bed in a day

Find all your tools and supplies at your local Builders Warehouse.

Project design by view along the way

To build the boxes position the sides between a top and base, securing with No More Nails and panel pins and then position and secure the box back.

Stack a bottom, middle and top box to make three columns, apply No More Nails between the boxes, then clamp and secure with panel pins to each joint.

Attach the top and base with panel pins from the inside, then secure the trolley back and sides using adhesive and panel pins - clamping until dry. Add the top sides and top back.

Drive panel pins into the cladding panels from the inside.

Cover any holes with tinted wood filler and then use a belt sander along the joints to smooth the edges and make them flush.

Add the castors and handles before attaching the trim, positioning the lockable castors at the front.

Place the trim along the edges, apply a thin layer of No More Nails to each to attach. Mitre the corners of the top trim and secure and then add the angle trim to the back, holding it with tape until dry.

FINISHINGApply two coats of clear Plascon Ultra Varnish over the plywood surfaces. Secure a pair of galvanised trunk handles to each side then add four 75mm castors to the base.

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1. Drill 2mm pilot holes at 10mm in on all edges of the top and bottom sections [A]. Countersink the holes. Use wood glue and screws to join the sides [B] to the top and bottom sections [A].

2. Attach the top/bottom battens [C] 50mm from the top. If you prefer a low mattress you can lower the height of the battens. In this project the mattress sits on top of the base.

3. Attach the side battens [D] in exactly the same way.

4. Position the horizontal supports [E] and attach by driving through the back of the top and bottom [A].

5. Place the base slats [F] so that they rest on top of the battens [C & D]. Each slat is 76mm wide and the gap between is also 76mm wide. Drill 2mm pilot holes, countersink and attach.

6. Continue to add the remainder of slats in the same way. If you prefer, use a single sheet of BisonBord in place of the slats for a more solid base.

7. Cut batting, lining & fabric; batting 200mm wide; lining and fabric 300mm wide - all 2,5m long. Starting on the sides, place the batting with spray adhesive and then cover with lining.

8. Take the lining fabric around the corner and staple on the inside of the top and bottom frame sections. Now cover lining with your fabric and staple in place.

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9. Repeat the process that you did on the sides for the top and bottom sections, adding batting and lining.

Again, go around the corner with the lining fabric and staple to the inside from of the side sections.

10. Finish off by covering the top and bottom sections with fabric, taking the fabric around the corner before folding under a hem and stapling to attach to the inside of the bed frame.

You can close up the folded seam by hand sewing in a matching thread.

11. Add feet to the bed. See below on how to make your own legs or feet or furniture. Use offcuts cut to the desired height and screwed onto the inside of the frame before attaching the feet.

Click here for more information on making your own legs or feet for a bed, or furniture.

Click here for details on how to make a diamond tufted headboard.

Click here for instructions on how to make an upholstered headboard and then add nailhead trim around the edge. You can use single upholstery pins for curved areas and upholstery strips for straight sections.

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Reuse - Repurpose - RecycleIn the space of a year, plarn - or plastic yarn made from recycled plastic bags - has become a big business.

Sites like Etsy are filled with plarn items up for sale, and you even have to buy the pattern if you want to make it yourself.

It would be nice to see more plarn crafts here in SA.

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MAKE YOUR OWN PLARN

Don’t throw away plastic shopping bags, rather recycle them into plarn and make your own rugs, baskets and bags.

FOLD THE BAG AND CUT OFF THE TOP AND BOTTOM

CUT THE BAG INTO 2CM WIDE STRIPS

JOIN THE STRIPS TOGETHER BY FOLDING ONE OVER THE OTHER AND PULLING THROUGH

YOU NOW HAVE A DOUBLE LENGTH OF PLARN

REPEAT WITH THE REMAINING STRIPS TO MAKE A LONG LENGTH OF PLARN

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USE PLARN TO MAKE A WASTE BASKETWhat could be more fitting than a project that uses waste plastic bags to make a waste basket...!

After making your plarn (previous page) use a plaiting technique to weave three lengths of plarn together into long - very long - lengths.

Hand stitch the plaited strips together.

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plarn out of recycled shopping bags.

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Valentine’s Day

This one is not just for the girls out there, but for you guys as well...! You don’t need fancy sewing skills to make a hoop of love for someone special.

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?Do you battle to cut perfectly straight? The Skil guide rail is perfect for 90° and 45° cuts with a maximum deviation of 1mm per metre for straight and accurate cuts. Its click connection allows the user ease of setting up. Can be used with Skil circular saw models: 5140 - 5740 - 5840 - 5155 - 5064 - 5166. Available at retail outlets at the recomended price of R479

Looking for a good excuse to buy a Dremel Moto-Saw...!

I spotted these unique, hand made, wooden card ideas on Etsy. You can buy them online or treat yourself - or loved one - to a Dremel Moto Saw and make your own wooden cards or gifts.

With its range of different saw blades, the Dremel Moto-Saw can handle many different materials easily.

The Dremel Moto-Saw is a compact

and easy-to-use scroll saw for

making detailed cuts in different

materials.

My new Dremel Moto-Saw just got unpacked and given a trial run and I’m in love...!

Using the tool for the very first time was not difficult at all. Setting up the unit is as simple as clicking the body into the worktable, inserting the blade and switching on.

I decided to see if I could make one of the awesome wooden cards shown on the previous page and managed to find a piece of masonite to work with. I traced a design onto the front to work with - aptly suitable for Valentine’s Day...!

TIPS:

1. For cutting out detail on the centre you need to drill some holes. These only need to be large enough to allow for the blade.

2. Start on a slow speed setting until you get the hang of moving the board around as you cut. Sort of like using a sewing machine for buttonholes or adding a monogram. It won’t take you long to feel comfortable.

3. Place the board on the worktable and thread the blade through a drilled hole and secure at the top and bottom.

4. You can raise or lower the foot and I found it easier to have the foot raised to be able to see the small letters. For larger projects keep the foot down.

Now you are ready to start cutting. Easy...!

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10min HOW TO SAVE

R350 in 10 minutes

REPLACE A MIXER TAP

Replacing a mixer tap in a kitchen or bathroom is a 10-minute project.

Switch off the main water supply and geyser, and empty the taps before you start.

Have a thick towel ready under the connections to catch any water that remains in the pipes.

Loosen the connector underneath the taps that holds it in place.

Use a wrench to undo the hot and cold water fittings so that you can pull out the fittings through the top of the sink.

Install the new tap in reverse order - and there you have it... easy!

CLEAN A BLOCKED FILTER

If a mixer tap is running slow it could be caused by nothing more than a blocked filter.

Unscrew the end of the tap to remove the filter and then place the end and the filter in concentrated lemon juice.

Leave for about an hour and then use a scouring pad to remove any remaining traces of build up on the end cap and rinse the filter. Screw the end cap and filter back in place.

Use concentrated lemon juice to remove

limescale, mineral deposits and hardwater

build up on chrome fittings in a bathroom

and kitchen.

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REPLACE A TAP WASHER

Replacing a tap washer is a 5-minute job that will cost you around R20, as opposed to paying a plumber or handyman in the region of R350. Your local Builders Warehouse stocks a variety of washer sizes for all taps and you can even buy a pack of assorted washers.

The pictorial illustrates how to undo a tap and you can easily remove the faulty washer and take it along with you so that you know you are buying the correct size of replacement washer.

Remove the clip cap to reveal the screw and then loosen the screw.

Use a adjustable spanner to unscrew thetap valve.

Pull out the tap valve to replace the washer.

Here’s an idea to wash away all

doubts: Give your bathroom the

latest design look with our minimalist washstand. It sums

up the concept that less is more.

The supporting elements consist of

side panels enclosing shelf panels fastened

with screws and a countertop on top of

these. Another support is provided by a piece

of square timber acting as attachment strip: This is fixed to the

wall and screwed to the countertop.

You will need:

Tape measure + pencilWood glueDowel centres3 x 16mm screws3 x 25mm screws4 x 35mm screws4 x 45mm screws6 of L-bracketsDrawer handles

TOOLSClampsJigsaw plus clean cut bladeSander plus 120- and 240-grit sanding padsDrill/Driver plus assorted bitsCountersink bitCordless screwdriver

Cutting list:

1 21200 x 480 x 20mm Pine - Frame top

2 675 x 460 x 20mm Pine - Frame sides

1 240 x 160 x 20mm Pine - Frame centre side panel

3 1160 x 240 x 20mm Pine - Frame shelf bases

1 1160 x 495 x 20mm Pine - Frame rear panel

1 593 x 190 x 20mm Pine - Frame front panel

1 1150 x 45 x 45mm PAR pine frame attachment strip

2 400 x 131 x 12mm SupaWood - Drawer sides

2 543 x 131 x 12mm SupaWood - Drawer front/rear

1 567 x 400 x 3mm Masonite - Drawer base

1 593 x 190 x 20mm Pine - Drawer front

MODERNVANITY

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1. Arrange the two upper shelf panels and the centre side panel on their leading edges to form a double T-beam in the way you want to screw them together. Use a pencil to mark the rear edges so that you always know what goes where at a later stage of assembly.

Draw the centre crossline on both shelf panels with a pencil. The holes used for screwing the centre side panel are positioned along this line. Always place the centring tip of the wood drill bit precisely on this line. Drill two holes in each shelf panel and countersink the holes from outside. Now assemble the double T-beam using 4 x 45mm screws.

2. First join together the double T-beam and the third shelf panel together with the side panels. Now place together the parts mentioned on their display sides as you want to assemble them. Once again, make a note of their positions with a triangle.

Carefully draw the outlines of all three shelf panels inside the two side panels.

Using the drill and wood drill bit, insert three holes in the centre of each of these outlines for fastening the shelf panels to the side panels. Countersink these holes from outside and use 4 x 45mm screws to fit the side panels and shelf panels.

To attach the rear panel, lay the shelf structure you have made onto your work surface. Push the rear panel into place where you want to fit it behind the shelves. From the front of the shelves, use a pencil to draw the outlines of the lower and centre shelf panel on the rear panel and then remove the panel again.

Drill five holes in the centre of each of the outlines. You can then fit the rear panel with 4 x 45mm screws. The frame is now complete.

3. The countertop is fastened with screws from below through the top shelf panel. Predrill the holes and countersink them from below.

Align the countertop precisely on the frame and fit using screws (4 x 35 mm). At the back, attach the countertop to the side panels with L-shaped brackets.

You must also take into account the location of the wash basin, the opening for the wash basin in the countertop and possibly in the top shelf panel.

Make this opening once this particular step is complete.

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Attach the front panel by placing the frame on its back and aligning so that there is a 5mm gap between the outer edge of the right-hand side panel and between the lower edge of the centre shelf panel. Secure using clamps and fasten with 3 x 16mm screws from behind.

4. Use a jigsaw to cut the opening for the wash basin and required fittings in the countertop.

5. Align the drawer sections to form a box shape - top facing downwards. The front and rear sections are enclosed between the sides. Use the triangular symbol to mark all sections so that you always know what goes where.

Drill two 6mm holes for the dowels in the faces of both the front and rear sections. Insert the dowel templates in the holes and copy their positions to the insides of the drawer sides.

Dab glue into the dowel holes in the front and rear section and insert the 6mm wooden dowels. Dab glue into the holes in the sides and then assemble the drawer sections and press the joints with clamp clips until the glue is dry. Wipe away any excess glue immediately. Once the glue has set, lay the frame with the top facing downwards. Align the base so that it lies flush on top of the drawer. Mount with 3 x 16 mm screws.

6. To mount the drawer front, determine its exact location on the front section of the drawer. Attach double-sided tape to the front section and push the drawer into its frame compartment. Push from behind and carefully pull it forward together with the front. Fasten drawer front with 4 x 35mm screws on the inside.

7. Drill the holes for the drawer handle in the drawer front and fit the handle.

Chamfer all edges with 120-grit sanding pads at a 45° angle to create a small bevel.

Use your sander to sand all visible surfaces in the direction of the wood grain, first with 120-grit sanding pads and then with 180- and 220-grit sanding pads. Wipe the surfaces afterwards to wipe off the dust.

The wood is now ready for stain and seal or painting, whichever you prefer.

Where any wood furniture is used in a bathroom it needs to be properly sealed to prevent moisture absorption. It is also recommended that a glass top, tile or mosaic surface be applied to the top of this bathroom vanity to protect from water splashes.

For maximum protection, spray the project with Plascon Enamel Doors & Trims in

your choice of colour, or Plascon Sure Coat if you prefer a matt finish. You will find both these products at any Builders Warehouse store.

Dilute the first coat by adding 10-parts paint to 1-part mineral turpentine. By diluting the first coat you allow for better absorption into the wood.

Apply the first and any remaining coats undiluted.

Find everything you need for this project at your local Builders

Warehouse.

FINISHING

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Reuse - Repurpose - Recycle

Bosch fine spray systems not only enable you to apply paint perfectly, they can also easily spray numerous other materials with impressive results. And they do this without requiring time-consuming preparation: you can simply spray most materials undiluted; with others, all you have to do is add a little diluent such as water or solvent.

Find these products at your local Builders Warehouse.

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Nowadays, cracking open a bottle of wine doesn’t just mean popping the cork or unscrewing the cap...!

Once you discover how simple it is to crack a bottle, you will be making your own glasses, candle holders and glass decor every time you empty a bottle.

It might take a few attempts to perfect the art, and you may spend some time sanding the edges smooth, but it’s a fun way to recycle.

On a slightly windy evening, lighting up a candle or two can be mission impossible. Use your empties to make these candle protectors.

Simply remove the bottom of a glass bottle and pop it over your candles.

Mix up the colours with different shades of coloured glass. It’s a good excuse to sample different wines...!

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HOW TO CRACK A BOTTLE

Once you get the hang of it, cracking a bottle is quite easy. I was very lucky to get it right on the first attempt, but it doesn’t always work out that way.

You can use any glass bottle, including beer bottles, to make a variety of different sized and coloured containers.

You will need:

Glass bottleTwine or stringLighter fluidSafety glasses

Here’s how:

SAFETY FIRST: Do this project next to the sink and wear safety glasses just in case.

1. Wash the bottle to remove any labels and then dry thoroughly.

2. Cut a piece of twine or string and wrap around the bottle. Cut off any excess, as they can cause cracks where you don’t want them.

3. Apply lighter fluid to the string or twine. You only want fluid on the string, so do it slowly. I have previously tried lamp oil and thinners, but lighter fluid works the best.

4. Wash your hands before you continue.

5. Hold the bottle by the neck and horizontally over the sink and slowly rotate so the flame covers the entire string. Continue slowly rotating until you hear the glass crack.

6. Run cold water and immediately place the bottle under the water. If the bottom doesn’t fall off on its own, a light tap on the base of the sink will do the job.

7. If you have a Dremel MultiTool you can use a sanding stone to smooth down the cut edge. Alternatively, place a piece of 120-grit sandpaper on top of a workbench and rub the edge of the bottle over this until smooth.

Now go and be creative...!

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Now that you have mastered the art of cracking bottles, why not make up your own soy wax candles. By making your own candles you can use soy wax as an alternative to paraffin wax - and save yourself quite a bit of money.

Although Eskom is keeping very hush on the topic, power outages might still be a way of life for many. But even if you don’t experience power outages, there are always going to be times when you need to light up a candle or two.

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In this project by simply diy2 you can see how making your own candles is a really easy process that takes about an hour.

You will need:Double boilerSoy wax chipsWicksRoll of stringMason jars or cracked wine bottle bases

Here’s how:Fill the bottom pot with water and bring to the boil. Insert the top pot and pour in the wax. Turn down to medium heat. If you want a scented candle, add a couple of drop of essential oil to the wax.

While waiting for the wax to melt, trim the wicks so that they are level with the top of the jar. Place one wick in each jar.

Place all the jars in a cardboard box so that you can use the box to secure two rows of string or twine to keep the wicks nicely in place.

The wax didn’t take long to melt once the water was rapidly boiling…it was neat to watch it melt down.

Once melted, I used a measuring cup to slowly pour the wax into the jars. I held a paper towel at the bottom of the cup as I poured to catch any wax that dripped.

Let the candles cool over night before doing anything else to them.

WHERE TO BUY SOY WAX & WICKS

Soap Barn

Candle Deli

Fun with Candles

glorious gardens

Most South Africans have grown up behind high walls and fences. Moving into a townhouse development or cluster village usually means an open-plan garden layout that lacks privacy. Low walls, fencing or communal gardens don’t allow for a secluded spot to sit and relax without being gawked at. But there are ways to add some privacy and create a haven where you can take time out in the privacy of your own space.

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Creating a modicum of privacy in a small townhouse garden or balcony, or in a garden that is overlooked by neighbours, is easily achieved with some careful thought and planning.

Screens and planters are an easy solution for balcony gardens of all sizes.

Concrete or terra cotta planters are a more permanent solution, as these cannot be easily moved around. It’s also important that you check for any weight restrictions for a balcony, as these types of pots are extremely heavy - without any soil or plants.

Try to limit the number of concrete or terra cotta pots and plant up foliage plants that have a wider spread.

A row of plastic planters filled with fast-growing bamboo will soon screen off a small balcony and create a semi-shady spot that is hidden from nosey neighbours.

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Bamboo and smaller varieties of palms are perfect for screening off a small balcony.

Use lightweight plastic containers for potting up plants.

Bamboo needs to be potted up, as it can very quickly overtake a garden.

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Bambusa Multiplex is a compactvariety with dense feathered leaves on thin straight culms that splay outwards from its base. It grows to a height of 3m to 5m high.

As these are clumping bamboos they are suitable to use in the landscape without the need to be restricted or maintained. Ideal for smaller gardens: use as a hedge or screen, or near a water feature.

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When it comes to creating more privacy in a townhouse or small garden, there are more options to choose from.

I particularly like these box hedges [right]. The ones shown here are artificial ivy and I’m not sure why anyone would want an artificial hedge, but it’s show how you can use planters and trellis to build up an ivy hedge that can be used as a privacy screen.

Bamboo panels and sleepers are used to create a privacy screen in this suburban garden.

A cheaper option would be to use split-poles rather than sleepers.

A woven trellis is perfect for supporting climbing plants. Mount the trellis to an existing wall for support.

Ivy is a quick-growing climber, but a visit to your local garden centre or nursery is a good idea to find plants suitable for your region and where they will be planted in the garden.

Tall grasses are another option, as is clumping bamboo.

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Screens are always a popular choice for adding privacy. Thesecan be positioned where requiredand left natural or planted up asa decorative feature.

There are many varieties of plants that can be used to screen off a private area in a garden.

It’s a good idea to draw up a sketch of the area that you want to screen off and then take note of how the sun moves around this location. With this in hand, your garden centre or nursery will be better able to advise on suitable plants to use.

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Another very affordable option is to use shade cloth to create privacy panels. These days you can find shade cloth in a variety of colours and designs.

Canary Creeper - Senecio tamoides

Masses of golden yellow flowers hang from this fast-growing climber. With its shiny green leaves this vigorous climber will soon fill a vacant spot on any sunny wall. The slightly scented flowers attract butterflies.

This climber needs to be supported and requires sun.

You can easily propogate canary creeper with cuttings placed in rooting powder.

Wild Clematis - Clematis brachiata

This deciduous climber can reach up to 5m and bears masses of sweetly scented flowers. The seeds are fluffy, so don’t plant too close to a swimming pool.

Wild Clematis is recognised for its many medicinal properties. It can be used to soothe aching feet or blisters, and as an eyewash for tired eyes. When crushed and inhaled it is believed to clear a blocked nose and ease painful sinus.

Fast growing, this plant is not fussy about conditions and grown well on a trellis or fence.

Granadilla - Passiflora edulis

One of my favourite fast climbers is Granadilla, and this I will be planting in my garden to cover up a blank spot on the wall.

Not only does this plant have lush foliage, the flowers are beautiful to look at and a at the end of summer you have a crop of passion fruit that is perfect for using in salads and baking.

This plant loves a sunny spot and regular watering to keep it looking lush and ensure a good crop of edible fruits.

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I recently had to call in a tree feller to cut down some trees that had become too large for the garden. After removing the trees I was left with a huge gap along one wall, and over which my neighbours could easily see into the garden.

This wall is right next to the pool, so privacy is a must and I decided to mount three trellises along the top of the wall and I will plant a quick-growing climber to fill the gap.

If you want to mount a trellis on top of your walls you will find a variety of designs at your local Builders Warehouse.

You will need a drill/driver and assorted bits, as well as nylon wall plugs (6mm) and screws to secure to the wall, as well as spirit level, tape measure and pencil.

Measure out and mark where you want to mount the trellis.

To prevent the wood from splitting, drill a pilot hole. Hold the trellis against the wall and push a pencil through to mark onto the wall.

Drill holes into the wall that are the same diameter as the wall plugs (6mm) but slighter deeper than the length.

Push the wall plug through the trellis and into the holes drilled in the wall, then screw in place.

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Grab a can of Rust-Oleum Universal spray in gloss hunter green to add a splash of colour to a trellis. As long as the trellis is clean and dry, no preparation is required - simply spray on and leave to dry.

The full range of Rust-Oleum products are available at your local Builders Warehouse.

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PAINT YOUR HOME COOL

Imagine how your home would look with a newly painted roof. Now imagine that same roof and a cooler home at the same time. Plascon Nuroof Cool paints and cool your home in one tin.

PREVIOUS PAGE: Transform your roof with one of 16 colours. This example shows Plascon Nuroof Cool - Earth Shadow TRP 206. See all the colours in the range at your local paint store.

Painting a roof white is not necessarily the only way to cool a home. Plascon have recently launched Nuroof Cool - a roof paint that cools down the interior of your home.

Plascon Nuroof Cool offer lower energy consumption and cooler interiors with a new paint innovation known as Enviroshield™.

As one of the most exposed building surfaces, a roof captures enormous amounts of the sun’s energy because of the large surface area and angle of exposure. If not properly looked after, cement, tiles and galvanised materials are damaged by these UV rays atmospheric.

Plascon have put their new roof paint products through various tests, both locally and internationally, with the conclusion that Plascon Nuroof Cool offers reduced surface temperatures without compromising on durability.

You will need:

* Long-nap paint roller and extension handle* Large paintbrush* Stepladder* Rubber-soled shoes

Preparation:

Corrugated IBRUnpainted - Clean the roof with water to remove dirt and debris and then prime with iron or metal primer.

Previously painted - Clean the painted surface with Polycell Sugar Soap and a scrubbing brush. Rinse with clean water.

Cement Fibre Roof Tiles Unpainted - Use a stiff brush to scrub with sugar soap and rinse thoroughly. Apply a multi-purpose bonding liquid.

Previously painted - For a painted finish in good condition use a stiff brush to scrub with sugar soap and rinse thoroughly. Apply a multi-purpose bonding liquid.

Clay Roof Tiles - Not recommended.

Painting Tips:

Painting is best done in the cooler months (April – September) when roof temperature does not exceed 50oC. When the roof is hot, small bubbles will form in the paint and weaken the film.

Mid-morning is the best time to paint, after any frost or dew has evaporated, as the roof must be thoroughly dry before paint application.

After preparation, apply paint with a brush or roller. A minimum of two coats will be required, allowing at least one hour drying time between coats.

The idea is of painting a roof to cool a home is not a new one, in Tunisia and

Greece new construction still continues to use the traditional white roof.

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