A GUIDE TO USING HERBS IN COOKING

ANGELICASlightly liquorice-flavoured plant. Leaves are candied for a dessert decoration and the seeds can be added to pastry. The oil distilled from the seeds and roots is used for flavouring wines and liqueres and gives an unusual taste to sweet sauces.

ANISEEDA subtle liquorice flavour, widely used in baking cakes, biscuits, bread rolls and pastry for fruit pies. It is grown mainly for its seeds, though the leaves can be eaten in salads and as garnishes. To release the flavour of the seeds, crush them between greaseproof paper with a rolling pin.

BASILParticularly good with fish, egg and tomato dishes, and useful in all savory dishes including those with cheese. Gives flavour to potato and rice salads, soups and stews. The fresh herb goes well with pasta.

BAYUse it in moderation, fresh or dry, for stuffings, stocks, sauces, court bouillon, marinades, casseroles and vegetable cooking. It gives a subtle flavour when boiled with artichokes, aubergines or potatoes. Bay leaves dry well and hold their aromatic qualities for years.

BORAGEOnly good when fresh, as all the flavour disappears in drying. The leaves impart a cucumber taste in juices, fish sauces or white aspics. Traditional in fruit punches and summer drinks, and used as a garnish. Young borage can be cooked like spinach or served in salads.

BOUQUET GARNIA standard combination of herbs used in soups, stews and casseroles: 2 sprigs of parsley, 2 springs of chervil, 1 sprig of marjoram, 1 sprig of thyme, 1/2 bay leaf. Put in a firmly tied muslin bag.

CHERVILOne of the "bouquet garni' mixture. It is similar in appearance to parsely, though more delicate and ferny; the leaves are spicy, tasting slightly of aniseed. It enhances veal and chicken dishes, omelettes and salads. Essential as a garnish and for bearnaise and vinaigrette sauce. Garnish soups with chopped leaves.

CORRIANDERThe seeds have a very spicy taste and are used in breads and cakes. They are excellent for pickles and the subtle aroma gives an interesting undertone to soups and casseroles. It is also important in curry powder blends.

CARAWAYThe leaves can be used sparingly in soups and stews. The seeds are used in making breads, particularly rye, and give seed cake its name. The oil is the basic flavouring of the liquer kummel. Over cooking makes the seeds bitter, so for soups and stews wrap them in a cloth and add only for the final 30 minutes of cooking. For salads and when cooked with vegetables - they are good with cababge - release the flavour by crushing the seeds first. The roots can be boiled and eaten like carrots.

CHIVESUsed whenever a mild onion flavour is needed. They can be folded into cream cheese, egg dishes, mashed potatoes and cooked rice. A sprinkling of chopped chives greatly improves salads and raw vegetables. Excellent as a garnish for new potatoes, fish and hors d'oeuves. The aroma of chives is destroyed by long cooking so add the leaves either fresh or dried, at the final moment.

CUMINVery aromatic seeds, used in the making of curry, chili powder and chutney; it is baked in unleavened bread, such as rye, and used to enliven bean and rice dishes.

DILLBoth seeds and leaves are used in sour cream, fish, bean, cuccumber and cabbage dishes, as well as in potato salad and with new potatoes. Dill seed is sprinkled on breads, rolls and fruit pies. It is also used in pickling cucumbers, and bland vegetables are greatly improved by its flavour. The finely chopped leaves are good in creamed potatoes, white sauces, cottage or cream cheeses.

FENNELThe leaves and seeds are used like dill, especially with fat fish (bass, mackerel etc) with beans, lentils, rice and potatoes. The seeds go into breads and cakes, on top of rolls and fruit tarts and in cheese mixtures and spreads. Fennel gives an aromatic taste to fish and meat dishes, especially pork, liver and kidneys.

GARLICOne of the most versatile culinary herbs, it provides a special penetrating flavour and actually helps digestion. It can be overpowering at first, so begin in small quantities, increasing gradually. Cloves of garlic can go into soups, meat or vegetables, casseroles; it is good with roast lamb and pungent with bread. Important in salad dressings - rub bowl with a cut peeled garlic clove or add a crushed clove to the dressing, allow to stand for an hour to infuse the flavour. Remove the garlic before using the dressing.

LOVAGEThe leaves can be used as a celery substitute with stews; stems may be blanched and eaten like celery, or candied like angelica. It has a strong yeast-like flavour and acts as a substitute for meat and bones in soups and casseroles.

MARJORAMIts wild form is called oregano and is stronger in flavour, particularly when dried. Both are zesty, good in potato and dumpling dishes, with pasta and rice, in stuffings of all kinds. It is rubbed into lamb, mutton and pork before roasting and is used as a flavouring in vinegar and wine brews. Together with thyme and sage it comprises the traditional mixed herbs: 1 part each of marjoram and thyme to 2 parts sage.

MUSTARDCulinary mustards come from the ripe seeds and in powder form can make a subtle difference to cheese dishes, salad dressing, white sauce, mayonaisse and cabbage, and in the cooking of salted meats, Classically served with cold meats; also used in pickles and chutney.

PARSLEYThis common garden herb is a prime health giver as well as a most versitile culinary herb. It can be used with practically every dish. Because its flavour is fresh and not dominant, it can go with other herbs in many dishes, especially as a garnish, where its visual appeal and health value are plus factors. It helps salads, soupls, stews and stuffings; it goes into sauces' fish and egg dishes.

ROSEMARYThe leaves are very pungent and should be used cautiously in cooking. Important in marinades for lamb, rabbit, veal and pork. Gives spice to stuffings.

SAGEOne of the best herbs to counteract the richness of foods such as fatty meats, pork, sausages, duck, goose and oily fish; it also combines well with cheese and onion combinations; much used in stuffings.

SORRELThe leaves have a fresh, slightly acid taste, good in soups and sauces and as an accompaniment to egg dishes and cold meat. Combines well with other herbs or leaves, especially lettuce - a French dressing sweetened with honey balances the acidity.

TARRAGONA spicy, aromatic herb imparting an interesting taste to bland foods such as fish, eggs, soups, poultry, liver and sweetbreads. The leaves are used in sauces, marinades, salads and stuffings. Essential in bearnaise and hollandaise sauces.

THYMEUse in moderation in hearty dishes such as mutton, pork, shellfish and chicken, and in stuffings; best combined with vegetables in main dishes.

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