Start at the South Rim, descend over 4,000 vertical feet over 9 miles, climb up 6,000 vertical feet over 14 miles to the North Rim and then come back to the start. Nearly 47

miles and a cumulative total of 20,000 vertical feet.

Grand Canyon Rim-to-Rim-to-Rim Run – May 2012

“Going down is optional, getting back up is mandatory”

Last weekend I had the “opportunity” to run the Grand Canyon Rim-to-Rim-to-Rim run with 14 great guys. It was part of a bachelor party for our buddy, Brian. Only these guys would opt for 20,000 vertical feet of running over a couple of suites at the Bellagio.

We arrived at the Grand Canyon the night before the run. We stepped to the South Rim just as the sun was setting. The effect of seeing it for the first time was a collective “S@#%!” from all of us. It was bigger than it appeared in pictures. The numbers 47 miles and 20,000 vertical feet seemed manageable when reading them but trying to reconcile that information with what we were seeing was difficult. That first vision of the Canyon was a humbling moment and we began to realize that this may not be a typical bachelor weekend. After organizing packs, mixing nutrition and catching a few hours of sleep we convened at 4:30AM to start down the Bright Angel trail. We had the trail to ourselves, the moon was bright and spirits were high. Downhill trail running is a big confidence booster and the good natured banter was pretty thick. My bothersome hip flexors were feeling good and I felt like the technical training I had done was paying off.

When the sun rose we were treated to some of the most amazing scenery I have ever seen. After just two hours we were deep into the Canyon and surrounded by towering rock walls and steep drops. The running was steady but not superfast as we navigated loose rock, lots of steps, and rock hurdles used as erosion barriers.

Descent from South Rim to Silver Bridge

Silver Bridge marked the bottom

In just under 3 hours we reached the Silver Bridge over the Colorado River. This marked the end of our descent. We mostly were feeling good and everyone was looking forward to some flats and climbs to give the quads a break.

From the Silver Bridge (mile 10) to the Cottonwood water stop (mile 16.6) we enjoyed some of the best running conditions the Canyon can offer. It was too early for serious heat and the trail followed the Bright Angel creek up a narrow canyon. The rocks and roots were manageable and the terrain varied between flat and slightly climbing. We tended to run in packs of 3-4 runners but we were close enough that you’d run a few miles chatting with one group and then switch groups and change it up a bit. During this stretch the three guys who had planned on running only 30 miles (its funny just to say that) broke off on a side trip to Ribbon Falls.

By the end of this section I was still doing okay but I was increasingly finding myself in the rear group. My hips were okay, my nutrition was awesome, but some looming blisters were troublesome and I started having the “Wow- we’re not halfway” battle in my head. Ultrarunning is such a mental game and sometimes I think the only way to get over the self-doubt and fears you have is by having experience with this internal battle. Learning how to win the battle in your own head only comes from experiencing that struggle and losing it a few times. I have won it a few times (Boston’05, Ice Age’11), but in my last bout (Black Hills’11) “I can’t” was victorious over “I can”. Coming into Cottonwood it was looking like a close fight. (Excuse the excessive use of boxing metaphors but we watched Mayweather-Cotto on Saturday night and I am still kind of charged up)

When we left Cottonwood (mile 16.6) we knew we were about to see our first serious climbing. We filled our hydration packs to the brim and expected to refill at the water stop at Supai Tunnel (mile 21.8). We soon left the creekside trail and began hitting steep switchbacks to the North Rim. It was now mid-morning and the heat was starting to become a factor. My hip flexors were also making themselves known and each mile of climbing was taking its toll on my legs. It was on this section that we saw our first and only Grand Canyon Rattler and I had my only issues with narrow paths and steep drop-offs. I am not a fan of heights. I ran a few miles with my left shoulder brushing the rock wall as far from the edge as humanly possible. I took one step to the right but only to avoid the rattlesnake. Everyone was grinding up these switchbacks and we had bunched up into a large group. The exceptions were Brian who turned at 21+ miles (fulfilling a “I won’t die before our wedding promise made to his fiancé”) and John who was trailing a few minutes back. We all expected John to turn with Brian when they crossed paths but as we watched them pass from the switchbacks above, John simply said “I am going to the top”.

As I rounded each switchback I kept expecting to see the Tunnel and the water stop it promised. Each turn passed and no tunnel. My hydration pack was getting lighter and lighter and as we approached 8,000 feet my head was getting light as well. Finally the tunnel appeared and not a moment too soon. As we approached,

Running creekside up the Bright Angel Canyon

Say hello to our little friend

the news filtered down the line of runners - “No water”. We were joined by some hikers headed the other way and they told us that spigots at the trail head were also off and that the nearest water was 0.5 miles past the trail head at the Backcountry Office. Needless to say the good natured banter of the early morning was no longer present. It was then that I began to realize the difference between R2R2R and most endurance events we do. There are no race volunteers, there is no crew, and there is no sag wagon. Even the “I can’t” voice in my head was powerless because there was no other choice. We pointed ourselves uphill and started hiking. I don’t remember much talk during this time and I am pretty sure there wasn’t much. It was the hardest two miles I have ever done. It may have been the hardest 20 miles I have ever done. Just crammed into two.

Physically my legs were trashed from the climbing and my head hurt from altitude and lack of water. My mental condition was worse as I doubted I could run another step and the math in my head was doing the “25 miles walking will take 10-12 hours which means I won’t be back by 10 or midnight and it might get cold and blah, blah, blah…”. I tried to stay focused on each step and getting to the next milestone but the enormity of the return trip seemed daunting.

We finally reached the North Rim Trail Head and started walking to the Backcountry Office. Despite temps of 95 in the valley and mid-60s on the Rim, we had to hike through 100 yards of snow at one point on the trail. We took a while fixing feet, refueling and rehydrating. Everyone was pretty beat up but it’s amazing how quickly the body responds to a little rest and nourishment. I was worried about being able to run again and wanted to head out quickly so I could get a jump on the faster guys. Ted, Grant and I headed to the Trail Head and started down. I was pleasantly surprised that I could run pretty well and pretty soon my mental math had us making our 8:30 dinner reservation. After about a half mile we ran into John who reported that he was calling it a day and going to find a ride back to the South Rim. There were Rangers and campers at the North Rim and John’s phone was getting a signal so we felt like he was making the right call. I thought he was being smart by choosing safety over ego. I probably should’ve wondered if I should be doing the same thing but I was feeling good again. And there was no way I was climbing back up that half mile.

The trip back down from the North Rim was obviously more comfortable but still pretty slow going as the trail was rough and the steep drop-offs discouraged an aggressive descent. I was just psyched to be running again. By the time we got back to Cottonwood, the nine remaining runners were all reconvened. Jason, Ted and Grant looked strong and pulled out a little early. The rest of us headed out in a group of six. This really was the most runnable portion of the course. Mostly flat to slight downhills and a reasonably smooth track. However, it was now afternoon and the 90+ degree heat and the narrow canyon made for a stifling combination. I ran with the group for about 2 miles and then I fell off the back. My hip was protesting every footfall and I slowed to a walk.

A mile later I was soldiering on, head down, watching my steps when I heard a shout, “Paulie… get in here”. Looking right I find Tim, Vance and Jeff all with their shoes off floating in a deeper section of the Bright Angel creek. They looked about as happy as anyone I had seen in hours so I was quickly soaking with them. The ice cold creek helped my hip a lot and definitely cooled off my overheated core.

After the ice bath we were all able to pick up the pace for a few miles. Finally we reached the Phantom Ranch campground at the bottom of the Canyon. We sat on some steps near the water spigot and refilled and refueled. There were 20-30 campers sitting on benches and looked at us like we were out of our minds. As we sat on the stairs the door behind us opened and a raspy voice yelled “Who’s here for the steak dinner? I am Mike and I will be your server”. The campers all then lined up at the stairs while Mike explained the beer and wine choices. We all pushed ourselves up and limped away with no steak and no beer.

View from near the North Rim

Shortly after Phantom Ranch we recrossed the Silver Bridge and started the final 10 miles back up to the South Rim. The climb is broken into two 5 mile sections with the Indian Gardens water stop in the middle. The previous section was hot but mostly downhill and we were in pretty good spirits. It became quickly apparent that heading back uphill in that heat was going to tax our good natured personalities. It was during this part of the run where we stopped talking about running and started talking about wives, kids and the things that make us friends more than teammates.

Finally we reached the garden and took a pretty long break. Even with just 5 miles to go finishing did not seem like a certainty. It was weird because I wasn’t sure I could finish but I also knew I would finish just because there was no other choice.

The last 4.5 miles had water stops each 1.5 miles. We would hike for what seemed like an eternity and then Tim’s Garmin would beep and he’d say “One mile to go”. Ugh!

Towards the top we started running into a few hikers who were completing the Rim-to-Rim in a single day. Most of them were in ragged condition as well.

Finally we reached the top of the South Rim and had a mini-celebration. Typically at finish lines there is an air of victory. You had beat the course, your fellow competitors or maybe a personal best. This was very different. I didn’t feel like I had completed a race. I felt like I had been rescued from a mining disaster.

Thirty minutes later we were in the lounge bar, eating what the kitchen could scare up (we missed our 8:30 reservation) and trading stories. Everyone agreed it was the hardest thing they had ever done. Grant (an Ironman and Kona qualifier) stated that he would rather do back-to-back Ironmen than to do R2R2R.

The biggest ongoing story was John. We had expected to see him at the lounge but were informed that he could not get a ride at the North Rim and he began the solo trip back. Fortunately, he had “checked in” at Phantom Ranch (bottom of the Canyon) so we assumed we would see him the next day.

Limping out of bed the next morning we were summoned to Steve and Vance’s room for a team meeting. Two surprises awaited us. The first was John. He had “checked in” at Phantom Ranch but just as a notification and not for a room. So he continued to climb out and finished at 11:45PM. His solo return journey was a great story that included a Federal background check and a borrowed “Volunteer Ranger” shirt. We were just happy to see him safe. The second surprise was the SWAG that Steve & Vance had pulled together. In keeping with ultrarunning tradition we all received a custom belt buckle commemorating the accomplishment.

The weekend continued with lots of rest, relaxation and refreshments at ET’s place in Scottsdale (Thanks ET!). An unbelievable experience, a great weekend and fantastic friends.

Lessons Learned

I would carry a 100oz hydration pack. 70oz was not enough. Wear trail shoes with a rock guard. Just because you haven’t had blisters for a while doesn’t mean you shouldn’t be prepared for them. There have been times in races where I stopped not because I had to but because I could. I learned this

weekend that I can continue well beyond where I have stopped before.

Thanks to my teammates who made this trip possible and incredible. Thanks to our families and friends who support these crazy endeavors. Thanks to all our friends who followed along on Facebook and elsewhere.

One of the funnier comments about the group picture below: “Its looks like you guys robbed an REI”

bottom – Jason Rezac, front row L-R – Andres Rosales, Pau Wehner, Jeff Kaufman, Steve Byrnes, Jonah Luzier, back row L-R – Scott Labat, John Haugen, Tim Hammill, Brian Fulmer, Ted Danielson, Vance Baran, Marv Grier, Grant Harrell