garments technology part i

8/9/2019 Garments Technology Part I

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Garments Manufacturing Technology 1

Classification of Garments Industry in Bangladesh: -.........................................................3

Buying House: -...................................................................................................................3

Types of products produced by the Garments Factories: -..................................................3Types of rders recei!e by the Garments Industries of Bangladesh: -..............................."

#o of Garments Industries in Bangladesh: -........................................................................"

#o of $or%ers in Bangladeshi Garments: -........................................................................."

In $hich Countries Bangladesh &'port Garments: -.........................................................."(ample Types :....................................................................................................................."

Basic (tructure of Garments Industries in Bangladesh: -....................................................)

Function of a *roduction +anager: -...................................................................................,

*lanning: -........................................................................................................................,Coordinating: -.................................................................................................................,

(ample Garment +a%ing (euence: -.................................................................................*roblem: -............................................................................................................................

Fabric /efect: -....................................................................................................................0

Bul% or *roduction Garment +anufacturing (euence: -.................................................12+ar%er +a%ing: -...............................................................................................................11

(preading: -........................................................................................................................11

Cutting: -............................................................................................................................11

T- (hirt: -............................................................................................................................1*olo-(hirt: -........................................................................Error! Bookmark not defined.

(4eat (hirt: -.....................................................................................................................1*ull- !er5 6umper5 (4eater: -..........................................................................................1Tan% Top: -.........................................................................................................................1

Cardigan: -.........................................................................................................................1

T4in (et: -..........................................................................................................................1*attern Constructions:........................................................................................................13

+ethods of Body measurement:........................................................................................13

&uipment used:............................................................................................................13

*7TT&8# +79I#G F 7 B7(IC (HI8T: -...................................................................13(lee!e:................................................................................................................................1

Cuff: -.................................................................................................................................1)

*7TT&8# F 7 C;;78: -............................................................................................1)+ar%er ma%ing...................................................................................................................1,

+ar%er: -............................................................................................................................1,

Factors that affect mar%er efficiency: -..............................................................................1,Conformation of +ar%er +a%ing: -...................................................................................1

+ethods of mar%er ma%ing: -............................................................................................1

+ar%er +a%ing: -...............................................................................................................1

Types of +ar%er +a%ing: -................................................................................................1


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+anually +ar%er +a%ing: -..............................................................................................1

Computeri


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Classification of Garments Industry in Bangladesh:

= n the basis of 4nership: -

1. 6oint >entures.

. *ri!ately 4ned.

= n the basis of ?uota *ri!ileges: -

1. ?uota *ri!ileged Garment. #on-?uota *ri!ileged Garment

Joint Ventures: -

6oint >entures factories are located in the &'port processing


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Ty"es of %rders recei&e #y the Garments Industries of

Bangladesh: Bangladesh Garments manufacturers basically get three types of rders form foreign

Buyers: -

1. Cutting and +a%ing rders EC+ orders: - rders in 4hich Buyers supply allfabric@ trim and other needed materials. The factories ust cut and se4 the

materials according to the Buyers specification.

. Cutting@ +a%ing and Trimming rders EC+T orders: - rders in 4hich Buyerspro!ides ust the fabrics and the manufacturers ha!e to arrange all other necessary

material.

3. rders in 4hich the factories ha!e to pro!ide all necessary input.

Trim- &'cept fabric all other necessary material is called Trim

'o of Garments Industries in Bangladesh:

/uring 10,)-10,, a Garman entrepreneur too% the initiati!e to install a fe4 e'port

oriented Garments industries in Bangladesh. There 4ere only three factories e'porting

Garment during the beginning in 10,,- 10,. By 22 the number of Garments factoriesin Bangladesh increase to 3022 factories. The no of garments factories in /ha%a and

Chittagong are appro'imately 2 and )") respecti!ely.

'o of (orkers in Bangladeshi Garments:

The estimate no of employers in the e'port oriented garments industry is around 1.

million people@ primarily younger 4omen. $hen the domestic industries and Te'tileindustries that support it are also ta%en in to considerations employment in this sector

e'ceed 12 million people.

In (hich Countries Bangladesh E)"ort Garments:

The distribution of clothing e'ports among D(7@ &uropean Dnion and rest of the 4orld.

Bangladesh relies hea!ily on the Dnited (tates and &uropean Dnion for e'portingclothing e'ports. The shares of Dnited (tate and &uropean Dnion fluctuate a great deal.

*am"le Ty"es:

1. Fitting Sample: - +easurement style must be accurateE shadefabricstructuregsm may not be important

. Styling sample :-+easurement style must be accurateE shadefabricstructuregsm may not be important


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3. Fashion show sample: -+easurement style color (tructure must be

accurate.". Size Set Sample: -(ample contains all si


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Basic *tructure of Garments Industries in Bangladesh: E+edium scale factory

+anaging /irector5 Chairman E+/

7dministrati!e5Human 8esource

$or%-

study

Commercial

/epartment

Finance

/epartment

&'ecuti!e /irector5 General +anager

?uality/epartment

+erchandising/epartment

*roduction/epartment

$or%ers$elfare

Committ

+ar%eting

*rocurement(ection

(ample

(ection

(ub-

Contract(ection

Cutting

(ection

+ainten-

ance(ection

Finishing

(ection

(e4ing(ection

&*B@BG+&7

and

Ban%ing

&'port

and

Import(ection

In!entory+anagement

Compliance

Training

8ecruitmentand Career

/e!elopment

Information

(ystem

;ine ?5C

7uditor


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$unction of a +roduction Manager: *roduction +anager is the head of the production department. He is only one 4ho ta%esall the decisions in the de!elopment of desired reuirement of the Buyers. He ta%es all the

decision in the decision ma%ing table.

His main ob may be di!ided in to planning and coordinating function.

+lanning:

&stimate the rate of time for completion of each operation.

/etermine the reuired capacity for an order or style.

/etermine production start dates and completions dates for orders.

*lain the daily !olume that should be completed.

/etermine the bac% up in!entory needed to support the 4or%flo4.

/etermine production delays.

7ssess the performance of indi!idual operators5 machines5 dyes5 chemicals5

ra4 materials.

Coordinating:

He coordinates 4ith the supporti!e departments for the smooth flo4 of the production

process. He al4ays tries to ma%e continuous flo4 of the materials so that the production

should not be hampered and to reduce the o!erhead cost.

He coordinates 4ith the follo4ing department: -

+erchandising department for spec sheet and comments form the buyer. The

sample and remar%s if any@ supply of material on time. $ear houses for continuous flo4 of the materials on time as per reuirement.

Commercial department foe information of shipment.

Human 8esources department for s%illed manpo4er.


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*am"le Garment Making *e,uence:

+ro#lem:

(e4ing *roblem

Fabric *roblem

(tyle *roblem

*reparation of impro!e sample

8eected due to (e4ing *roblem orFabric /efect E*atent /efect or

;atent /efect

7ppro!ed

(ubmission of (ample to the riginalBuyer or ;ocal Buyers 7gent.

(ample Garment +a%ing

*attern *reparation E+anually5 7utomatic

riginal Garment5 *icture form (pec (heet

(ubmission of impro!ed sample


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$a#ric -efect: 1. +atent -efect or isi#le -efect:

Hairiness of Fabric

(hading or (hade >ariation

;ength or Chest >ariation

Fabric Fla4sK 9nots@ (tain@ Bro%en and ;oop

G(+ >ariation

/. 0atent -efect or in &isi#le -efect:

(hrin%age@ (pirality.

Color Fastness to

-$ashing

-8ubbing Edry5 4et

-Ironing-*erspiration

-7cidic and 7l%aline

-;ight-$ater

(e4 ability.


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Bulk or +roduction Garment Manufacturing *e,uence:

Garments "roduction se,uenceGarment ready for

(hipment

Cartoonin

Inspection

(orting of 8eect

Garments

#ot 7ppro!ed7ppro!ed by BuyerThird *art

Bu er

+erchandiser

Final- Ins ection

*re- Ins ection b ;ocal +erchandiser

Finishin Ironin or *ol *ac%in

(e4in

(ortin or Bundlin of Garments *anel

Cuttin

+ar%er +a%in +anuall or 7utomatic

( readin

(am le +a%in

*attern +a%ing for Bul%*roduction EBased on

the comments form (ample garment

*attern +a%in for (am le

ri inal Garment (%eten form ( ec (heer


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Marker Making: +ar%er ma%ing or +ar%ing is the process of transferring the pattern to the fabric or paper.In apparel production +ar%er mar%ing a paper mar%er@ 4hich is a particular spread or lay

made for a specific style and fabric@ generally does ma%ing.

It can ha!e one or more si


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T *hirt: The term T-(hirt is used generally for the casual tops 4ith a narro4 nec%line@ short slee!eand no collar usually made fore cotton.

T-(hirts are multifunctional garments 4orm by all ageMs groups as under 4ear and

outer4ear. T- (hirts are simply structured garments that consist of a front and bac% orbody@ slee!es@ nec%line treatment@ a fe4 style may ha!e a poc%et. They are basic control

colored garments. ut 4ear T- (hirts may ha!e nec%line !ariation@ poc%ets@ fashion fit@

trims or applied design to add fashion@ functional use and aesthetic appeal.

#ec%line styling may include Turtlenec%@ 8ound nec% and >- nec% etc.

The +olo*hirtThe +olo*hirtis similar to a shirt that is made form fabric must ha!ing collar and a

short button plac%et. It can ha!e either short or long slee!e.

*2eat *hirt: 7 long slee!e 4arm shirt 4ith a 4aistband is called (4eat (hirt. The inside is oftenfleecy. There are many possible collars and nec%line.

+ull %&er 3um"er *2eater: The *ullo!er is a %nitted top 4ith slee!es and a 4aistband and is put on o!er the head.

Tank To": The Tan% Top is a slee!eless *ullo!er EHigh G(+5 %nitted garment ;o4 G(+@ 4hichis 4orm o!er a Blouse or (hirt.

Cardigan: -Cardigans are open the front and are fastened 4ith a Aip or Buttons. They usually ha!e a

4aistband.

T2in *et: 7 combination of a classic *ullo!er or Tan% top 4ith Cardigan for

4oman.#ape: - The bac% part of the nec%.

Girth: - The measurement around something.7n%le: - The oint connecting the foot to the leg.

(eat: - *art of the body on 4hich a person sits.Chest: - The top part of the front of the body bet4een the nec% and the stomach.

Heel: - The bac% part of the foot belo4 the an%le.

Thigh: - The top part of the leg bet4een the %nee and the hip.(tature: - Form the !erte' of the head perpendicularly to the floor.


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+attern Constructions:*attern represents the t4o-dimensional component parts of a garment. They are used as ageode for cutting the fabric. $hich 4hen se4n together to forms a three-dimensional

garment. The creation of these patterns is the techniue of pattern construction.

*attern construction is a part of the garments design process and product de!elopment.The pattern can also be considered as a foundation for garment production. Body

measurement is a precondition to pattern construction. The si


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+easurement:

1 7 B

E-1 L 7rm hole

E- L4aist

E-3 Lshirt length

E-0 L 7rm hole P15 cm

E-, L nec% P15 -2. cm

E,- L".

E0-12 L15 Bac% "cm


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E12-1" L 12 cm

E1 13 L .,

E12 1 L 2.,

E1-" L N Chest 1 cm

E1-" L153 Chest ". cm

E1 -1) L NE15 Chest 1 cm

E2-3 L E-13 2. cm

E-10 L ". cm

E10-2 L #ec% P15 -1 cm

E10-1 L #ec%P15 -. cm

E12 - L 1.

E2 3 L E-13 2.

E1-, L 1. cm

E,- L 3. cm

*lee&e:Information:

7rm hole circumference L " cmDpper arm girth L 32 cm

(lee!e length L 2 cm

$rist girth L 1) cm

4 - B

$

C G E

+easurement:

Here@

7BC/ is a

$here@

7BL (lee!e length


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7 B

F G

C & /

H&8& 4BC-I( 7 8&7CT7#GD;&8. $H&8& 7@ 9@ 6@ I@ /@ C I( C;;78.

H&8& C&LN Q#&C9 &/L BDTT# (T7#/1.C+

GFL +I/ *I#T F 7COB/ 8&(*&CTI>&;R 7//@ FG 7#/ GHL1C+

T79& 7 +I/ *I#T I@ 6D(T B&;$ IT

7//@ /IS I@ 6

Marker making

Marker:

7 mar%er is a diagram of a precise arrangement of pattern pieces for a specific style and

the si


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Conformation of Marker Making:

Grain ;ine

Characteristics of garments

Cutting uality

*roduction planning

Methods of marker making:

+anual mar%er ma%ing

Computeri


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*roduction patterns may be de!eloped on the computer and 5or (canned in to the

computer. In addition@ parameters for mar%ers are entered in to the computer from@cutting orders. These might include style numbers@ si


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98 +attern engineering:

Changing the design of pattern 4e can increase the efficiency of mar%er. e.g. by N

folding of pattern.

8 $a#ric characteristics:

(ymmetric fabric more efficiency O asymmetric fabric less efficiency.;8 Methods of marker making:+anually made mar%er less efficiency O automatic made mar%er more efficiency.


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plies do not co!er the 4hole area of the mar%er plan and parts of some patterns pieces

4ould be missing 4hen cut if the 4idth is not proper.

Correct "ly tension:

The ply tension should be proper. If the tension is lo4@ there 4ill be ridges in the plies

and if the tension is too high@ the fabric may shrin% after cutting and se4ing. (preading ifdone in spreading machine@ it gi!es uniform tension.

$a#ric must #e flat:

It should be maintained carefully. perator must pay attention so that there is no 4rin%le

during fabric spreading. If any 4rin%le in flat table@ the 4in%le is eliminated by air flo4.

If the 4rin%le is not remo!ed the panels of garments may be faulty.

Elimination of fa#ric fla2s:

The fla4s of fabric must be indicated during spreading and necessary steps to be ta%en to

remo!e these faults. It is the duty of the operator. There are many 4ays by 4hich 4e caneliminate the fabric fla4s. (plicing is one of them. It can be done in t4o 4ays: one is by

gi!ing indication in the mar%er and other is by o!erlapping the fabric. (ometimes metaltape is attached to indicate the fla4 of the fabric. The fla4s can be easily identified by the

computer and the length of the computer and the length of splicing can also be measured

by this techniue.

Correct "ly direction and lay sta#ility:

These t4o factors must be considered together. They depend on fabric type@ pattern shape

and spreading euipments that are a!ailable. $hen the pattern pieces ha!e beenpositioned in a particular direction in the mar%er plan@ it is the essential that the fabric is

spreading according the direction.

&ffects of the surface design or fabric construction@ problems of instability 4ith pilesurface can ha!e impacts on spreading. (ymmetrical patterns pieces are placed in the

same 4ay up or face to face. If the fabric or patterns are asymmetrical@ the fabric is

spreaded either up or facing do4n.

Elimination of static electricity:

If spreading is done by manmade fabrics@ static electricity may generate. It can be

eliminated by reducing friction or increasing humidity of the room. &arthling facility canbe pro!ided 4ith the lay to reduce static electricity generation.

Easy se"aration of the cut lay into #undles:

The si


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The heat generates 4hen the fabrics lays are cut by using cutting %nife due to the friction

generating bet4een fabrics and %nife. Generally@ those fabrics are melted due to heat

generation to the fabrics lays 4hich are made by thermoplastic fibres. 7s a result@ there ispossibility of polymer bidding by oining together and also difficult to separate patterns.

To pre!ent this defect@ some anti-fusion papers are used 4ith the gaps of fabrics plies

during spreading. The papers contain lubricating matters so that %nife is lubricated duringcutting. 7s a result@ there is less possibility of friction to generate heat and also less

possibility of fusing fabrics.

4&oidance of distortion in s"read:

There is a great possibility of forming crease or fold of fabric plies due to the friction in

the bottom of lay by base plate of %nife during cutting 4ith straight %nife or shifting of

fabric lay. 7s a result@ defected pattern may be made. To remo!e this defect@ fabric lay ismade on the smooth paper so that@ there is less possibility of friction bet4een fabric and

table.

Matching checks and stri"es:It must be remembered that@ the matching of fabric if it is striped or chec%ed should be

correct during the spreading of one ply on the other for ma%ing fabric lay. 7lso mar%erplanning should be done by matching 4ith stripe or chec% of fabric. 7nd the matching

may be 4arp 4ay or 4eft 4ay as reuired.

Im"ortant terms and definition

Cost and Freight...#amed *ort

of /estinationU

ECF8

7 Term of (ale 4here the seller pays the costs and freight necessary to bring thegoods to the named port of destination@ Terms of (ale but the ris% of loss of or

damage to the goods@ as Econtinued 4ell as any additional costs due to e!ents

occurring after the time the goods ha!e been deli!ered on board the !essel@ is

transferred from the seller to the buyer 4hen the goods pass the shipVs rail in theport of shipment. The CF8 term reuires the seller to clear the goods for e'port.

Carriage and

Insurance *aid

To ...#amed

*lace of

/estinationU

ECI*

7 Term of (ale 4hich means the seller has the same obligations as under C*T@ but

4ith the addition that the seller has to procure cargo insurance against the buyerVs

ris% of loss of or damage to the goods during the carriage. The seller contracts for

insurance and pays the insurance premium. The buyer should note that under the

CI* term the seller is reuired to obtain insurance only on minimum co!erage. The

CI* term reuires the seller to clear the goods for e'port.

Cost@ Insuranceand Freight

...#amed *lace

of /estinationU

ECIF

7 Term of (ale 4here the seller has the same obligations as under the CF8 but alsohas to procure marine insurance against the buyerVs ris% of loss or damage to the

goods during the carriage. The seller contracts for insurance and pays the insurance

premium. The CIF term reuires the seller to clear the goods for e'port.

COFWcargo and

freight

7 term of sale meaning Wcargo and freightW 4hereby (eller pays for cost of goods

and freight charges up to destination port


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Free n Board

EFB

7n International Term of (ale that means the seller fulfills his or her obligation to

deli!er 4hen the goods ha!e passed o!er the shipVs rail at the named port of

shipment. This means that the buyer has to bear all costs and ris%s to loss of or

damage to the goods from that point. The FB term reuires the seller to clear the

goods for e'port.

;etter of CreditE;5C

7 document@ issued by a ban% per instructions by a buyer of goods@ authori


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Bangladesh 9nit4ear +anufacturers and &'porters 7ssociation EB9+&7

Central Bonded $arehouse ECB$

>alue 7dded Ta' E>7T

Chittagong &'port *rocessing Aone EC&*A

/ha%a &'port *rocessing Aone E/&*A

BG+&7 Institute of Fashion and Technology EBIFT

Bangladesh #ational Council of Te'tile Garment and ;eather $or%ers EB#CTG;$

Bangladesh Te'tile and Garment $or%ers ;eague EBTG$;

Te'tile $or%ers for 7sian 8egional rgani


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garments technology part i

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