Group IntroducingCourse Title: Garments Manufacturing Technology(1)

Course C0de:Tex-207Course Instructor:Arnob Bashak Lecturer of City university

Group members:

Md.Towhidul Islam-11328017

MD.Sakir Hossain Sagor-12129314

Arif Ahamed Sharker -12129268 Foysal Ahamed -12129300 M.M Kurban Islam -12129250

InterliningIntroduction: Interlinings are used to support,reinforce and control areas of garments such as collar,hems,facings and the fronts of jackets and coats.They may be sewn into the garment or they may be attached by means of fusing.

Definition: One separate kind of fabric,which is used between two layers of orginal fabrics in order to keep some of the parts or components of a garment fair,strong,and attractive and also for retaining the actual shape is called the interlining.

ObjectiveThe development of fusible was a fairly rapid process and required the combination of three separate technologies: 1. Textile: To produce the necessary types of base cloths. 2. Resin: To produce thermoplastic adhesives for heat bonding. 3. Engineering to produce machines that would fuse the interlining to the top-

cloth.

Classification of InterliningMainly interlining is of two types : 1.Sewn Interlining or non fusible interlining

2.Fusible interlining Sewn Interlining: The interlining which are joined by sewing with the

orginal fabric of the garments are called sewn interlining.

Advantage of Sewn interlining: 1.To make flame retardend garment.

2.Simple and easy technique.

3.No elaborate machine is required.

Disadvantage of sewn Interlining: 1.Quality is not good but price is high. 2.Not suitable for large production

3.More time required.

Fusible interlining: The interlining which are joined by heat and pressure with the

orginal fabric of the garments are called fusible interlining.

Advantage of Fusible interlining: 1.It takes fewer labour and higher output is obtained in lesser time.

2.Overall performance is better then non fusible interlining.

3.Easy technique and no need of especially skilled operator. Disadvantage of fusible interlining: 1.High temperature is required

2.Special care is needed during attaching interlining.

Condition of fusing

Properties of condition of fusing are given below:

1.Appearance(Beauty):The garment which are made by asing fusible interlining must be beautiful to see.the following are the properties of the parts of garments in which interlining are joined directly related with appearance of garments::

a)stiffness b)Praping c)Handle and soon.

2.Strength:Fusible interlining and fabrics are joined by bonding with resin.The strength of this resing bond should be proper during marking garments.

3.Proper fusing: Care should be taken so that the strike back or strike through does not happen during fusing.If the temperature or pressure is heigher resing will melt and come out from the garments.

4.Shrinkage due to temperature: Generally fusing is done at 150-170 degree and some types of fabrics can be shrinked at that temperature.So that proper care must need to avoide the shrinkage otherwise the garments will be small to required size

5.Fabric Color:Wthiout proper care color of the place of the garments where fusing will be done can be changed and

garments will be rejected.So that proper care must be needed.

6.Out looking:Proper care must need to avoide the misalignment of fused parts of fabric during fusing otherwise the garments will be rejected.

7.Special Quality:Special qualities in fabrics are developed though finishing care should be taken so that these qualities are not damaged during fusing.

Classification of fusible InterliningThere are 6 types of fusible interlining based on the qualities and

properties of resing.They are given below:1.Plyethyline coated interlining: a) Plyethyline is used as resine coated.

b)This type of interlining is used in collar ,cuff of shirt.

2.Polyamide coated interlining: a) Polyamide is used as resin coating. b) Polyamides are very widely used in dry cleaning solvent.

3.PVC coated interlining: a) Poly vinyl coated is used as resin coating. b)PVC coated interlining is widely used for making the coat type

garments.

4.Polyester Coated Interlining:

a)Polyester is used as resining coating. b)It can be used as in all types of garments. c)Polyester resins are used in dry cleanable and washable garments because polyester is less water absorbent than poly amide.

5.Polypropylene coated Interlining: a)The resin is similar to the properties of polyethylene coated interlining. b)Comparatively high temperature fusing is done.

6.PVA coated interlining: a)Polyvinyl acetate is used as resin coating. b)PVA coated is not dry cleanable and it has limited wash ability . c)Low temperature and pressure is required.

Properties of Fusible Interlining

The following are the properties must have to the fusible Interlining parts:

a)The maximum temperature of fusing should not be greater than 175 degree.

b)The minimum temperature of fusing should not be less than 110 degree. c)The bond of fusible interlining should be damaged due to washing and

dry cleaning. d)The desired rigidity and handle after fusing of the interlining should be

obtained. e)The interlining should not be toxic to the human body during the end-

use of garments.S

Types of Fusing

Fusing are 3 types :- 1.Reverse Fusing 2.Sandwich Fusing 3.Double Fusing Reverse fusing: In this method first the interlining fabric is spread on the

fusing bed and the surface of the fusing side of the interlining remains on the top.Then the fabric of the garment is spread on it,and the fusing is done which is called reverse fusing.

Sandwich Fusing: In this method,two parts that means two fabric of garments are placed in outside and two interlining inside(4layers)and then fusing is done by the fusing machine.

Double Fusing: In this process two types of interlinings are joined with the garments fabrics in a step during fusing and temperature must needed to control.

Defects of Fusing

Which are defects of fusing are given below:

a)Striking Back b)Striking Through

Striking Back: When two parts of fabrics are joined by pressure and heat during fusing,it must have the control to the temperature and pressure.

Striking Through: When two parts of fabrics are joined by pressure and heat during fusing,it must have the control to the temperature and pressure.

Fusing MachineGenerally,fusing machines are used in garments industries for fusing.Mainly 4 types of fusing machine are available:-

1.Hand Iron 2.Flat bed fusing press 3.Continuous fusing press 4.High frequency fusing

Fig:Hand Iron

There are various types of interlining which are comparatively fused in low temperature and pressure.These type of interlining are fused by hand iron fusing machine.

Fig:Flat bed fusing press

Generally this type of machine consists of two beds,one is static bed and another is running bed.Static bed is buck and the running bed is called head.Buck is surfaced or covered by soft bedding which are made by fabrics,silicon rubber.

Fig:Continuous Fusing press

This type of machine contains edge less or loop shaped feed sheet on which,parts of fabrics and interlinings are feed by proper placing of one to another.

Fig:High Frequency fusing machine

This type of fusing machine is quite different from previously described fusing machines.Because in type of machine ,heat is created as the same process of microwave cooker.Fabrics and interlinings are arranged in stacks and are placed in between two metal plates of fusing machine.

Quality Control In Fusing The factors which influence the quality of Fusing are Discussed below:-

Temperature: Fusing temperature depends on types of fusing Too low a temperature gives poor flow and poor

subsequent adhesion. Fusing range is 150-170 degree. To check the temperature a portable pyrometer or

thermo paper may be used.

Pressure: The pressure should be uniform and sufficient during fusing. Too low a pressure deduces penetration with consequent low

adhesion. Too high a pressure provided excessive penetration of rein

resulting in strike back and strikes through.

Fusing Time: The equipment must give enough time to allow the temperature and

pressure. Different fabrics requires different time for fusing. Coarser fabric requires more time but thinner fabrics require less time. To check time of fusing,stop watch is used.

Pilling Strength : The bond strength between fabric and interlining due to melting resin

is checked to measure fusing efficiency. The bond strength is compared with standard bond strength between

fabric and interlining.

Dry cleaning or washing :- Check again later washing or dry cleaning with water of fused

parts. Specially to check changing appearance of changing bond

strength or dry cleaning. The application of heat during fusing should be checked regularly.

Conclusion

Interlinings are available in a wide variety of weights and construction to match the properties of the garment fabrics they will support.They can be woven or non-woven,both of which can be constructed to give a different softness and resilience in different directions.And our teacher helped us properly to get a proper knowledge and this knowledge may be very helpful in our future industrial life.