garments merchandising

A DISTINGUISH LANDMARK IN THIS RIGION TO DEVELOP OUR GARMENTS /TEXTILE SECTOR AS WELL AS MAKE STRONG OUR ECONOMIC BASEMENT. SPEECH OF PROJECT WRITERS FIRST OF ALL THANKS TO ALMIGHTY ALLAH WHO HAS GIVEN US A GREAT CHANCE TO DO SUCH LIKE A NICE PROJECT ON MERCHANDISING UNDER SUPERVISION OF OUR HONOROUBLE TEACHER PROFESSOR DR.MD.MAHBUBUL HAQUE & MD.MAHFUJUR RAHMAN .ACTUALLY IT IS SO TOUGH TO DO A REPORT ON THIS SUBJECT. ONCE IT WAS A DREAM TO MAKE A PROJECT ON THIS SUBJECT & IT WAS A CHALLENGE FOR US.BUT NOW IT BECAME TRUE.WE HAVE GIVEN OUR BEST EFFORT TO DO THIS PROJECT.AND EVERYTHING IS POSSIBLE BECAUSE OUR TEACHER HELPED US A LOT.THANKS TO OUR HONOROUBLE TEACHER & PRAY FOR US TO ALLAH THAT WE CAN DEVELOP OUR LIFE IN NEXT FUTURE. OVERVIEW

Garments are produced in the garments factories on industrial basis all the people of a specific country. Bangladesh is one of the garments producing & exporting country in the world market. At present there are about 4500 garments factories running in Bangladesh. Growth of garments factories started in Bangladesh around 1980.around 1980, garment production & export business was unknown to us. Foreign currency earning through garments export $3.24 million which was not countable in percentage of the total national foreign currency earnings. Afterwards, tremendous growth of garment factory, garments productions, garments export, the percentage of foreign currency earnings through garments export reached from 0% to around 80% of the national foreign currency earnings, in 2007-08 financial year.At present Bangladesh is producing & exporting more than 60 items of garments. the most common items are shirt, trouser, jacket, sports wear, T-shirt, polo shirts, ladies wear, sweater, socks, hats etc. this produced items are exported in USA, Canada, Japan, Australia, middle east and many other countries in the world. Bangladesh is one of the important & competitive garments exporting country in the world market. Cheapest labor cost is the biggest advantage for Bangladeshi garments producers & exporters.

INTRODUCTION

The main role of a garments merchandiser is to collect garments export order(export L/C),produce the garments, export the garments and earn profit, to perform those functions successfully needs lot of knowledge, experience & tremendous effort for a merchandiser. The term merchandising is defined as follows:Definition of merchandising

The term merchandising related with trade

Trade means buying & selling

The person who is involved with trade, he/she is a merchandiser

And the activities of a merchandiser is known as a merchandising

Process flow chart of merchandising

MerchandiserNegotiation with buyer

Export order collect

Costing of accessories

Send to the buyer

If ok then sample making(according to buyer requirement)

Get approval

Go to production

In-house of accessories

Line balancing

Production continuing (follow up)

Inspection of the produced garments

Assembling with polybag,carton etc

Preparation of banking

Shipment/delivery

Merchandiser

Qualities of a merchandiser

Language skill

Computer skill

Marketing skill

Right consumption knowledge of various goods

Costing knowledge of raw materials

Order getting ability (That is if the merchandiser is known by actual rate of raw materials, so that he can negotiate perfectly with buyer. In this way, the possibility of getting order is hundred percent.)

Sincere& responsible

Hard worker ORDERPROCESSEXECUTE

Types of Merchandiser

Junior Merchandiser Senior Merchandiser Activities of Junior Merchandiser (In a factory) Main task is production monitoring

Collect inventory report from store

Swatch making & getting approval from buyer

Arrange preproduction meeting in order to prepare a schedule for smooth production

Place order to different production unit

Collect Daily Production Report &Daily Quality Report If any shortage in store, arrange locally.

Arrange final inspection

Arrange final inspectionResponsibilities of Senior Merchandiser Sample development

Price negotiation

Order confirmation

L/C opening

Opening summery

Sourcing

Material collection

Production planning

Production monitoring

Quality assurance

Arrange final inspection

Arrange shipment

Negotiation with buyer

The most critical work is the procurement of garment export order.normally garment export order is found from the potential garment importers called garment buyer.anybody wants to collect garments export order,should be able to convince the buyer.when the buyer is convinced about garment production,garments quality,garments costing and shipment ability of a garments exporter ,he or she can think about issuing agarments export order.Without clear confidence among buyer& exporter from both sides, may be a risky business deal. If a garment exporter can continuously deal with only three or four buyer with buyers satisfaction, it will be sufficient enough to run garment production & garment export business smoothly round the year.

A successful negotiation outcome does not generally occur through luck, but by following a clear process. The process reflects the different levels of knowledge of the subject of negotiation, various parties and the way they communicate at various stages in the negotiation. The following is an outline of steps essential to effective negotiation:

1) Researching the needs of both parties

The greater the knowledge a buyer has of their own and the suppliers requirements, the better able they are to construct an acceptable solution. The buyer must be clear about both the department mark-up to be placed on the product cost and the intended retail selling price so that she or he can judge the viability of the suppliers products.

2) Preparation

Effective preparation is also vital to successful communication. It is essential that the buyer also has identified the maximum and minimum positions that she will accept for a range of factors including:

product price

order size

lead- time.

3) Offer

The buyer and supplier can make specific proposals to set the boundaries of the negotiation.

4) Discussion

There will be areas on which one side can move than more then the other and vice versa. It is important for the buyer to make a note of which ones provide the greatest and least opportunities for flexibility.

5) Counter and revised offers

This is the real bargaining where elements of the order, such as number of units, product details, lead-time and so on are being decided in the context of an overall cost price the buyer should make firm proposals.

6) Summaries

7) Agree & commit.

Execution of garments export orderAfter receiving the garment export order, without wasting any time, it is essential to prepare a schedule for the jobs to be done for safe execution of the export order. The main jobs for the execution of an export order are as follows:

Details analysis of export L/C

Preparation of a time schedule for the export L/C

Collection of fabric& accessories for the garment to be exported[source, quantity of the items, cost of the items, receiving data of the items, quality& quantity, Inspection of the items, etc] Distribution of responsibilities for the jobs & duties

Production plan

Inspection of the produced garments for quality, quantity, packing & other requirements of the buyer.

Preparation of banking & shipment formalities

Continuous follow-up progress

Others.

L.C. (Letter of Credit)

The whole system of merchandising is depending on L. C. It is the main stem of this trade.

Types of L.C.

Various types of L.C. are present in business system. Some recognized processes are

1) MASTER /MOTHER L.C

2) BACK TO BACK L.C

3) SIGHT L.C

4) DEFFERED L.C

(Note: in Bangladesh sight l. c is mainly used)

In this trade initially cash money is not used. L. c is the main process for buying & selling. When a business deal is made for buying & selling between buyer & merchandiser then the buyer gives permission to his bank to open an L.C. of approx amount & send it to merchandisers bank. Then this bank informed to merchandiser that an L.C. is accepted. This l .c is called MASTER L.C.

THEN MERCHANDISER takes decision about the manufacturer for collecting raw materials .when merchandiser choose supplier then he tell the supplier to send a pro-forma invoice. After getting p .I. merchandiser tell to his bank to open an l .c send to the suppliers bank. This l. c is opened from mother l .c which is given to merchandiser. This l .c is called back to back or b to b l.c.

When supplier sends the products to merchandiser, then he send a acceptance copy to his bank& a copy to the supplier. Then the supplier can able to get cash from his bank. At the same way merchandiser send the product to the buyer or after shipment he also able to get cash from bank. Shipment of goods is done by B.L (bill of leading).this system is called SIGHT L.C.SIGHT L.C. consists of MASTER & B TO B L.C.

Pro-forma invoice

An invoice presented by one company to another for payment for goods prior to their dispatch. This method of invoicing is to ensure payment is received and is often the case when two companies have not traded before. If future trading is anticipated it will then be usual for an account to be set up for the purchasing company with credit facilitiesIt is known as P.I. Pro-forma invoice is taken by merchandiser from the supplier or manufacturer. Where everything is listed that is product amount, price, carton size and the total cost of required production and received by the merchandiser from supplier.

Sample pro-forma invoice type

Costing of local accessories price

Local accessories suppliers are available in Bangladesh. Qualities are varying according to market place & price. Some companies are BUYER nominated.

For example: 1) Plastiform 2) Bright trim etc.

Approx. price range

Accessories

Hanger

: 1.65-2.50 dollarPapers hang tag: 10 cent-1 dollar.

Price tag

: 10 cent-60 cent

Poly bag

: 30cent-1dollar (Depending on size & thickness)

Carton

: 65 cent- 1.5 dollar

(Note: price is varying according to market price)

TrimsSewing thread : 70-85 cent ( per cone)Button

: 1.2-2.5 dollar/grows (144 pcs=1 grows)

Rivet

: 80 cents-1.5 dollar/grows

Hole button/chock button: 6 dollar- 8 dollar/gg (1728pcs=1gg;greater grows)

Zipper

: 1.20dollar-3.50dollar/dozen (pant)7 dollar-12 dollar (jacket)

(Note: the price is depend on the basis of zipper quality that is cotton, nylon, polyester etc)Packing AccessoriesThe Accessories which are used for garment packing during garment shipment to buyer are called packing accessories. Packing accessories are depended on garment packing and folding etc which is instructed by buyer.

Poly bag, packing board, tissue paper, hanger, scotch tape, gum tape, carton etc are part of packing accessories.

Packing should be varying (as per buyer garment packing instruction) in different orders as per instruction of buyer garments packing. , The number of one carton garments it is weight on depend carton quality.

Understand quality of carton follow 3 ply, 5 ply, 7ply.

The number of carton is high ply number it is very much it is hard and strong.

The sea frights depend on dimension of the export carton and the air frights depend on dimension of the export carton or gross weight of the carton.

CARTON

TYPE OF CARTON:

1. DEPEND ON PAPER : 1. Khaki Carton Or Brown Carton

2. Duplex Carton

3. Box Carton

2. DEPEND ON STITCHING : 1. Stitching Carton

2. Now stitching /Gum Pasting Carton Or Metal Free Carton

3. DEPEND ON PLY : 1. 3 Ply Carton

2. 5 Ply Carton

3. 7 Ply Carton

4. DEPEND ON LINER : 1. Both Side Liner Carton

2. Out Side Liner Carton

5. DEPEND ON SIZE : 1. Master Carton

2. Inner Carton

CARTON MEASUREMENT:

FORMULA (1) = (L+W) (W+H)X2 in cm (Without Wastage)

100X100

FURMULA (2) = (L+W+6) X (W+H+4) X 2/10000 (Include Wastage)

PRICE = (L+W) (W+H) X 2 x Rate per Square Meter

100x100

= Rate/Pc

Example: Here, L=30, w=40, H=20,

From (2) = (30+40+6) X (40+20+4) X2/10000

= 0.97 Square Meter.

Rate for 7 PLY = .55 USD [For GMTS Export Natural 7 Ply Used

5 PLY = .39 USD (.55X 5/7) (Less Wt Master Carton)

3 PLY = .23 USD (It is used as inner carton)

NOTE: Some time some buyer wants top & bottom inside in the carton. It should be in 3 Ply.

CARTON:

Carton should be made of 7 ply to be exported. Carton is tested by carton bursting machine.

"BUTTON"

40 Line =1 inch =2.54 cm=2.54 mm

1 line =0.635 MM

TYPE : 1. Pearl button

2. Horn button: It is also polyester button

3. Chalk "

4. Logo "

5. Polyester "

6. Imitation leather

7. Polyester imitation button:

8. Nylon button

9. Alloy button

10. Brass fashion button

11. Jeans button

12. Snap button: 2 ports & 4 ports

13. Press button

14. ABS button

15. Polymat button : It is made of polyester & metal.

16. Cord button : It is made of cord.

17. Handicraft button :

18. Fabric Covered button:

19. Coconut button :

20. Wooden button :

21. Real horn button :

22. Real Shell button :

23. Rhine stone button : It is made of metal & stone

"ZIPPER"

TYPE OF ZIPPER:

1. DEPEND ON END 1. Open end Zipped:

(a) Right insertion of sleeve & left puller (Mens)

(b) left insertion of sleeve & Right puller (Womens)

2. DEPEND ON TEETH SIZE: 1. 3 SIZE

2. 4 SIZE

3. 5 SIZE

4.

It depend on teeth length it 3 mm then size 3.

3. DEPEND ON TAPE: 1. Polyester

2. Cotton

4. DEPEND ON PULLER: 1. Double puller

2. Single

5. DEPEND ON SLIDER LOCK: 1. Auto lock

2. Semi lock

3. Non lock

6. DEPEND ON TEETH MATERIAL: 1. LYLON (COIL)

2. VISLON /PLASTIC ZIPPER

3. Metal

1. NYLON: SHINY RAINBOW, SHINY GOLD, SHINY SILVER, ANTIC BRASS.

2. METAL: BRASS, ANTIC BRASS, NIKEL BRASS, ALUMINIUM, PEWTER.

3. PLASTIC ON DERLIN: IVORY, TRANSLUCENT, SHINY GOLD, SILVER RAINBOW.

QUALITY:-

1. AZO Free

2. NICKEL Free

3. Non magnetic.

4. Non toxic

5. Zipper teeth is not shrink so zipper tape S/B shrink free.

6. FBRIC S/B max 3% Shrinkage otherwise garment

7. like wavy & difficult for the zipper Slider

8. To go up and down .

HHH ZIPPER COMPANY SYSTEM

1. Types of zipper The type and name of zipper is given on the basis of the material used in zipper teeth .

Teeth size is expressed by # 3, #10 and on words .

# 3 representing Smaller size teeth and # 10 the larger.

PZ : Plastic zipper .

CZ : Polyester Zipper , coil zipper (previously Known as Nylon Zipper)

MZ: Metal Zipper

GK: Antique Brass Zipper

GB : Golden Brass Zipper

AL : Aluminum Brass Zipper

NI : Nickel Zipper.

2. FUNCTION : 0(0/E) : OPEN -END

C (C/E) : CLOSED -END

M(2 WAY) : 2 WAY OPENED

EXAMPLE :

PZC # 5: Plastic Zipper No 5 , Closed end

PZM # 8: Plastic Zipper No 8 , Way Open End

GKO # 5: Metal ,Antique Brass No .5 Open-End

Open -end zipper are used generally in the front of garments closed-ends in pockets , hoods legs of garments.

3. POSITION OF SLIDER :

L/S : Left Slider (Same as R/H-Right Hand) Mens When a Jacket in Opened the Slider remains at the left Side of the user.

R/S : Right Slider (Same as L/H-left hand)

USE : L/S : IN Europe & Asia both male & female -IN USA Generally female.

R/S : IN USA , Canada, South American Countries

ets : Generally male :

SOME SPECIAL ZIPPER:-

1.REFLECTIVE ZIPPER

2.INVISIBLE zipper : In this type teeth are not show frontout .

3. 2 way slider zipper :

1. 0 Type : Two end is closed so when two slider come toward then it shape like "0 ".

2. x Type : Two end is open so when two slider come toward then it shape like x.

3. R Type : One End is closed other is open when two slider come towards then it shape like R.

IMPORTANT INFORMATION WHEN WE ORDER Zipper we should know the zipper (teeth and tape) are colourfast , and order them in colors to match the garment color after wash the colours of pigment dye fabric garment or denim garments may change substantially during the washing process . If your zipper colours match them before wash, you will end up having the zipper much darker than the garment colours after wash .

Commercial invoice

Commercial invoice is known as U.D. This government document or certificate used for shipment.

Bill of Lading

Bill Of Lading (BoL)

It is a major document if the goods are dispatched by sea.

The document represents:

1. A formal receipt for the goods

2. The evidence of the contract of carriage of the goods between the shipper of the goods and the shipping company

3. The document of title to the goods

A bill of lading may include the following details:

a description of the goods in general terms not inconsistent with that in the letter of credit

identifying marks and numbers, if any

the name of the carrying vessel

evidence that the goods have been loaded on board

the ports of shipment and discharge

the names of shipper, consignee (if not made out "to order"), and name and address of the "notifies" party if any

whether freight has been paid in advance or is payable at destination

the number of original bills of lading issued

the date of issue

the departure date of carrying vessel or aircraft

SHIPPING TERMS

Consignee

The person whose name appears on the bill of lading or airway bill as the party to whom the goods are to be delivered by the carrier.

FCL (full container load)

A fully loaded container which may be in weight or cubic measurement terms, contracted by one shipper, and conveyed to one consignee and to one destination.

LCL (less container load)

A consignment of cargo which does not fill a full container, grouped with other consignments for the same destination.

Shipper

This is the person whose name appears on the bill of lading or airway bill as the party who has contracted the carrier to dispatch the goods.

Shipping Marks

These are marks essential to identifying cargo and linking that cargo with specific documents. Because these marks are important as identifiers, the marks and numbers should be as simple as possible. Shipping marks include the abbreviated name of buyer, reference number, destination, package number, and container number (if applicable).

Garment on Hangers (GOH)

The garments are packed into the container on hangers.

Flat Packed

The goods are packed into cartons.

Reedisha Knitex Shipments

Import Genius: Search millions of import - export records

OCEAN BILL OF LADING

Import GeniusBILL OF LADING

COPYNON-NEGOTIABLE

BILL OF LADING NO.

SYSASYL000684

SHIPPER

REEDISHA KNITEX LTD DHANUA,NAYANPUR,SREEPUR GAZIPUR BD

CONSIGNEE

STRATEGIC DISTRIBUTION L.P.13576 DESMOND STREET,PACOIMA,CA 913 CALIFORNIA CA

NOTIFY PARTY

VOYAGE NO.

00167

VESSEL NAME

ARRIVAL DATE

2006-01-12

PORT OF LOADING

CHITTAGONG

PORT OF DISCHARGE

LOS ANGELES

DECLARATION OF GOODS

ROUND NECK T SHIRT EMPIRE WISE

Particulars (1)CONTAINER NO. QTY. MARKS (2) CARGO WEIGHT COUNTRY OF ORIGIN

521 STRATEGIC DISTRIBUTION L.P 2547 KGBANGLADESH

(NOTES)

(1) As declared by Shipper and not acknowledge by Carrier

(2) Said to contain

SIGNED BY/ON BEHALF OF CARRIER 3

Documentation for shipment

Packing list

U.D

Commercial invoice

ERC(export registration certificate)

Bank account.

Bill of Lading.

FOB

:FREE ON BOARD (Free on Board) is simply the Supplier delivers the goods to his nearest Port and hands them over to the Freight Forwarder nominated by the Buyer. Buyer then pays the freight and arranges Insurance CNF

:CLEARING & FORWADING

CIF

: COST INSURANCE & FREIGHT (Cost Insurance Freight) means that the Supplier delivers the goods to his own Freight Forwarder who then ships the goods to the destination Port. Seller pays freight and insurance. From a Buyer's point of view, CIF is better as he does not have to worry about arranging shipping from Supplier to his home Port. DDP

:DELIVERED DUTY PAID DDU

:DELIVERDED DUTY UNPAID

A Letter of Intent ("LOI"), also known as Memoranda of Understanding and Memoranda of Agreement, is a device used to signal parties' agreement to the basic structure of serious negotiations to close a deal. An LOI typically comes into play after a round of initial discussions and after the signing of a Confidentiality Agreement and a second round of more serious discussions about the proposed transactionTERMS OF TRADE

C&F (cost and freight)

The seller/supplier agrees to contract the freight and pay "cost and freight" for loading the goods, cleared for export, on board a vessel and the charges to ship the goods to destination. The buyer bears the risk of the goods from the time they pass the ship's rail at the port of shipment and pay for the insurance coverage, and for the unloading costs at the port of destination.

CIF (cost, insurance, freight)

The seller's price includes all charges, freight and insurance up to the point where the ship carrying the goods arrives at the port of destination; the goods must be cleared for export by the seller. From that point the buyer has to bear all charges and risks, including unloading costs.

CM

This refers to the manufacturing cost and this term means "cut and make". The buyer supplies all the materials to the manufacturer.

CMQ

This term means "cut, make and quota" and is similar to 'CM' except that the manufacturer has to supply the quota as well.

CMT

The term means "cut, make and trim". The buyer provides the fabric, and the supplier makes the garments.

CMTQ

The term means "cut, make, trim and quota". The buyer has to provide the fabric and the manufacturer makes the garments as well as provides the quota.

Ex-Ship

The supplier is responsible for all costs incurred until the ship reaches the port of destination where the supplier delivers the documents and the buyer can clear the goods on board the ship. The buyer bears all risks and costs from that point including unloading charges.

EXW (ex- works) / Ex-Factory

The supplier delivers the goods to the buyer at his premises, i.e., factory, warehouse, etc. He has the minimum responsibility and does not have to provide minimum documentation unless upon specific request. The buyer bears all costs and risks involved upon delivery of the goods until the desired destination.

FOB

This term means "Free On Board". The supplier is responsible for all charges (including export licences, export taxes, etc.) and risks until the goods have passed over the ship's rail at the port of shipment; the merchandise must be cleared for export. The buyer contracts and pays for the freight and bears all risks for loss or damage to the goods as soon as the merchandise passes the ship's rail. The buyer also pays for all import duties and clears the goods through customs at the point of destination.

FOB Airport (FOA)

This is similar to the term FOB except that the mode of transportation is an air carrier. The supplier fulfills his obligations after he has delivered the goods to the air carrier. The goods must be cleared for export by the supplier.

Landed Duty Paid (LDP)/ Delivered Duty Paid (DDP)

The seller fulfills his obligation to deliver when the goods have been made available at the named place in the country of importation. The seller bears the risks and costs, including duties, taxes and other charges of delivering the goods thereto, cleared for importation. Under these terms, the seller bears the maximum responsibility, and in this case, the seller has to clear the goods both for export and import.

Certificate of Origin

A certificate of Hong Kong origin (CO), is issued when it has been established that the goods are the natural produce of Hong Kong or the product of a manufacturing process in Hong Kong which has changed permanently and substantially the shape, nature, form or utility of the basic materials used in manufacture. There are specific origin criteria applicable to individual types of products manufactured in Hong Kong. There are six organizations in Hong Kong authorized to issue the certificate, namely the Trade Department, the Hong Kong General Chamber of Commerce, the Indian Chamber of Commerce of Hong Kong, the Federation of Hong Kong Industries, the Chinese Manufacturers' Association of Hong Kong, the Chinese General Chamber of Commerce.

Export Licence

In Hong Kong, export licences are needed for all garments and textile products. The licences are issued by the Trade Department.

Packing List

This is a document that indicates the contents of each individual carton/ package in the container. The packing list includes the cubic measurement of the cartons/package, the weight, the number of cartons/packages, the breakdown of the goods by size/colour/quantity. This document is prepared by the seller or the ship owner, and the buyer can specify which information should be included.

Sample development process in garment industry

Product package

Design/sketch

remark Working pattern Sample garment received commentsSend to buyer if not okif ok

Approved sample

Basic consumption of garments manufacturing (woven & knit)

WOVEN GARMENTS

Consumption of Basic Shirt (Long Sleeve Denim)

A. Front Part Length

: 30.5

Sewing Allowance: 0.5 (for hem)

0. 5 (for high point)

Safety margin

: 1.0 (for relax)

Total

: 32. 5

Chest (width)

: 25

For front plucket: 7

Sewing Allowance: 1 (0. 5 + 0. 5 )

Safety margin

: 1

Total

: 34

So, Length x Width = (32.5 x 34) sq. inches

= 1105 sq. inches

B. Back Part Length

: 29

Sewing Allowance: 0.5 (for hem)

1. 0 (0.5+0.5 for high point)

Safety margin

: 1.0

Total

: 32. 5

width

: 26


Safety margin

: 1

Total

: 28


= 882 sq. inches

C. Sleeve: Length

: 23

Sewing Allowance: 1. 0 (0.5+0.5)

Safety margin

: 1.0

Total

: 25

Width

: 11


Safety margin

: 1

Total

: 13

So, Length x Width = (25 x 13) sq. inches

= 325 sq. inches (For one part)

Now, Total Sleeve consumption = 325 x 4

= 1300 sq. inches

D. Cuff: Length

: 11


Safety margin

: 1.0

Total

: 13

Width

: 3.5

Sewing Allowance: 1 (0. 5 + 0. 5)

Safety margin

: 1

Total

: 5.5

So, Length x Width = (13 x 5.5) sq. inches

= 71.5 sq. inches (For one part)

Now, Total Cuff consumption = 71.5 x 4

= 286 sq. inches

E. Sleeve Plucket: Length

: 6.0


Total

: 7

Width

: 1.0


Total

: 2



Now, Total Sleeve Plucket consumption = 14 x 4

= 56 sq. inches

F. Yoke: Length

: 20.0


Safety margin

: 1.0

Total

: 22

Width

: 8.0


Safety margin

: 1

Total

: 10



Now, Total Yoke consumption = (22 x 2)

= 440 sq. inches

G. Collar Band: Length

: 18.5


Safety margin

: 1.0

Total

: 20.5

Width

: 1.5


Safety margin

: 0.5

Total

: 3.0

So, Length x Width = (20.5 x 3.0) sq. inches

= 61.5 sq. inches (For one part)

Now, Total Collar Band consumption = 61.5 x 2

= 123 sq. inches

H. Collar: Length

: 18

Sewing Allowance: 1.0 (0.5+0.5)

Safety margin

: 1.0

Total

: 20

Width

: 3.0


Safety margin

: 1

Total

: 5.0



Now, Total Collar consumption = 100 x 2

= 200 sq. inches

I. Pocket: Length

: 7.0

Sewing Allowance: 0.5

Safety margin

: 0.5

Total

: 8

Width

: 5.0


Safety margin

: 0.5

Total

: 6.5

So, Length x Width = (8 x 6.5) sq. inches


Now, Total Pocket consumption = 52 x 2

= 104 sq. inches

J. Pocket Flap: Length

: 5.0


Safety margin

: 0.5

Total

: 6.5

Width

: 2.5


Safety margin

: 0.5

Total

: 4



Now, Total Pocket Flap consumption = 26 x 4

= 104 sq. inches

Result:A+B+C+D+E+F+G+H+I

= 1105+882+1300+286+56+440+123+200+104+104

= 4600 sq. inches

So, the Total consumption of the Basic Shirt = 4600 sq. inches

Conversion of the Unit:

If, the Fabric Width is 58 then the length= 4600 sq. inches= 79.31

58 inches

= 79.31

= 2.2 yards

36

* Now, considering wastage

= 6 7%

= 0.15 yard

Again, Total Length of the fabric

= (2.2 + 0.15) yards

= 2.35 yards

For one shirt

and Total Width of the fabric

= 58

* Total fabric required for 1 dozen

= (2.35 x 12) yards

= 28.2 yards.

Finally, total fabric consumption for 1 (one) dozen Basic Shirt is = 28.2 yards

Where, the fabric width is

= 58

KNIT GARMENTS

Fabric Consumption Calculation for 1 dozen Mens T-shirt:

For a Mens T-Shirt:

a) G.S.M (Given by buyer)

Body

: 145-150

Neck/Rib: 175-180

b) Sewing & seam allowances (Not given by buyer) 1.50-3cm

c) Wastage % (Not given by buyer) 7%

d) Measurement chart (given by buyer)

Measurement Chart:

ParameterGivenEstimated with sewing allowance

a) Chest96cm102cm

b) HPS65cm70cm

c) sleeve length20cm25cm

d) Arm hole46cm49cm

e) Neck58cm61cm

f) Neck width2+2=4cm7cm

g) Bottom hem2cm

Formula:

Cpd = L x W x 12 x GSM kg

10000000

Where Cpd = Consumption per dozen

L = Length

W = Width

A) Cpd (body)

= L x W x 12 x GSM kg

10000000

= 70 x 102x 12 x 150 kg

10000000

= 1.28 kg

B) Cpd (Sleeve)= L x W x 12 x 2 x GSM kg

10000000

= 25 x 49 x 12 x 2 x 150 kg

10000000

= 0.44 kg

C) Cpd (Nick)


10000000

= 61 x 7 x 12 x 180 kg

10000000

= 0.092 kg

So, total Cpd= A + B = C

= (1.28 + 0.44 + 0.09) kg

= 1.81 kg

Actual Cpd = Total Cpd + 7% wastage

= (1.81 + 7%)

= 1.94 kg

So, the fabric consumption for mens T-shirt is 1.94 kg per dozen.

Consumption Calculation for 1 dozen Polo shirt:

Here,

a) G.S.M. (given by buyer) body

145 150

collar (12pcs)

400

cuff (12 x 2)

300

b) Sewing & seam allowance

1.50 3cm

c) Wastage %

7%


Measurement Chart:Parts NameGivenEstimated

a) Chest96 cm102 cm

b) HPS65 cm70 cm

c) Sleeve length20 cm25 cm

d) Arm hole46 cm49 cm

e) Collar length 46 cm46 cm

f) Collar width7 cm10 cm

g) Cuff length26 cm10 cm

h) cuff width3 cm5cm

A) Cpd (body)


10000000

= 70 x 102x 12 x 150 kg

10000000

= 1.28 kg

B) Cpd (Sleeve)= L x W x 12 x 2 x GSM kg

10000000

= 25 x 49 x 12 x 2 x 150 kg

107

= 0.44 kg

C) Cpd (Collar)= L x W x 12 x GSM kg

107

= 46 x 10 x 12 x 400 kg

107

= 0.22 kg

C) Cpd (Collar)= L x W x 12 x GSM kg

107

= 46 x 10 x 12 x 400 kg

107

= 0.22 kg

D) Cpd (Cuff)

= L x W x 12 x 2 x GSM kg

107

= 30 x 5 x 12 x 2 x 300 kg

107

= 0.108 kg

So, total Cpd= A + B + C + D

= (1.28 + 0.44 + 0.22 + 0.108) kg

= 2.05kg

Actual Cpd= 2.05 kg + 7%

= 2.19 kg

So, fabric consumption for 1 dozen polo shirt is 2.19 kg.

Consumption Calculation for 1 dozen Trouser:For Trouser,

a) G.S.M. (given by buyer)

180 - 250

b) Sewing & seam allowance

1.50 3cm

c) Wastage %

7%


Measurement Chart:

Parts NameGivenEstimated

a) Waist112 cm114 cm

b)Side seam (length)107 cm114 cm

c) Thigh (width66 cm72 cm

d) Front rise28 cm

e) Back rise36 cm

f)Leg Opening (bottom)46 cm

Cpd


107

= 114 x 2 x 72 x 12 x 200 kg

107

= 3.93 kg

Actual Cpd= (3.93 + 7%) kg

= 4.2 kg

So, fabric consumption for 1 dozen Trouser is 4.2 kg.

COSTING:

Coat a price for 1 dozen Mens T-shirt:

Pre-requisites:

Unit price

Costing1. Fabric consumption 2 kg/dz

$5.0/kg

$10/kg

2. Accessories

$2/dz

$2/dz

3. CM(cost of manufacturing)

$2/dz

$2/dz

Total

$14

A) Direct cost (raw materials)

=$14.0

B) Indirect cost (15% to 20% of direct cost)

Indirect cost = $14.0 x 20%

= $2.8

Total = $14.0 + $2.8

= $16.8

C) Profit @5%= $16.8 x 5%

= @0.84

Therefore, total cost= $16.8 + $0.84

= $17.64

= $18

So, the cost for 1 dozen means T-shirt is $18

Cost a price for 1 dozen Polo shirt:

Pre-requisites

Unit price

Cost1. Fabric consumption 2.7 kg/dz

$5.0/dz

$13.5

2. Accessories

$2.5/dz

$2.5

3. CM

$4-6/dz

$5

Total

$21

A) Direct cost (raw material)

= $21

B) Indirect cost

= 15% - 20% of direct cost

= $21 x 20%

= $4.2

Total cost

= A + B

= $21 + $4.2

= 25.2

C) Profit at 5%

= $25.2 x 5%

= $26.46

= $26.5

The total cost for 1 dozen polo shirt is $26.5

`Comparison between basic structures of weft knitted fabric

Structure

PropertyPlain1x1 Rib1x1 PurlInterlock

Appearance Different on face and back; V-shapcs on face, arcs on back Same on both sides, like face of plain. Same on both sides, like back of plain. Same on both sides, like face of plain.

Extensibility Lengthwise Widthwise Area Moderate (10-20%) High (30-50%) Moderate-high Moderate Very high (50-100%) High Very high

High

Very high

Moderate

Moderate

Moderate

Thickness

and

Warmth Thicker and warmer than plain woven made from same yarn Much thicker and warmer than plain woven Very much thicker and warmer than plain woven Very much thicker and warmer than plain woven

Unroving Either end Only from end kitted last Either end Only from end knitted

Curting Tendency to curl No tendency to curl No tendency to curl No tendency to curl

End-uses Ladies stockings, fine cardigans, mens and ladies shirts, dresses, basc fabric for coating Socks, cuffs, waistbands, collars, mens outerwear, knitwear, underwear. Childrens clothing, knitwear, thick and heavy outerwear Underwear, shirts, suits, trouser suits, sportswear, dresses.

Knowledge about faultsAskewed or Bias: condition where filling yarns are not square with warp yarns on woven fabrics or where courses are not square with wale lines on knits.

Back Fabric Seam Impression: backing fabric is often used to cushion fabric being printed. If there is a joining seam in the backing fabric, an impression will result on printed fabric.

Barre : occurs in circular knit. Caused by mixing yarn on feed into machine. Fabric will appear to have horizontal streaks.

Birdseye: caused by unintentional tucking from malfunctioning needle. Usually two small distorted stitches, side by side. This term should not be confused with birdseye fabric which is in fact created intentionally.

Bowing: Usually caused by finishing. Woven filling yarns lien in an arc across fabric width: in knits the course lines lie in an arc across width of goods. Critical on stripes or patterns and not as critical on solid color fabrics.

Broken Color Pattern: Usually caused by colored yarn out of place on frame.

Color Out: the result of color running low in reservoir on printing machine.

Color Smear: The result of color being smeared during printing.

Crease Mark: differs from crease streak in that streak will probably appear for an entire roll. Crease mark appears where creases are caused by fabric folds in the finishing process. On napped fabric, final pressing may not be able to restore fabric or original condition. Often discoloration is a problem.

Crease Streak: Occurs in tubular knits. Results from creased fabric passing through squeeze rollers in the dyeing process.

Drop Stitches: results from malfunctioning needle or jack. Will appear as holes or missing stitches.

Dye Streak in Printing: Results from a damaged doctor blade or a blade not cleaned properly. Usually a long streak until the operator notices the problem.

End Out: Occurs in Warp knit. Results from knitting machine continuing to run with missing end.

Hole: caused by broken needle.

Jerk-in : caused by an extra piece of filling yarn being jerked part way into the fabric by the shuttle. The defect will appear at the selvage.

Knots : caused by tying spools of yarn together.

Missing Yarn : Occurs in warp knit. Reuslts from wrong fiber yarn (or wrong size yarn) placed on warp. Fabric could appear as thick end or different color if fibers have different affinity for dye.

Mixed End (yarn) : Yarn of a different fiber blend used on the warp frame, resulting in a streak in the fabric.

Mottled : Color applied unevenly during printing.

Needle Line : Caused by bent needle forming distorted stitches. Usually a vertical line.

Open Reed : results from a bent reed wire causing warp ends to be held apart, exposing the filling yarn. Will be conspicuous on fabrics that use different colored yarns on warp and shuttle.

Pin Holes : Holes along selvage caused by pins holding fabric while it processes through tenter frame.

Press-Off : results when all or some of the needles on circular knitting fail to function and fabric either falls off the machine or design is completely disrupted or destroyed. Many knitting needles are broken and have to be replaced when bad press-off occurs. Bad press-offs usually start a new roll of fabric.

Printing Machine Stop : Dye or ink smudged along width of fabric as a result of the printing machine stopping.

Print Out of Repair : Caused by print rollers not being synchronized properly. This results in various colors of the design not being printed in the proper position.

Puckered Selvage : Usually caused by selvage being stretched in finishing or by uneven wetting out in sanforization process.

Runner : caused by broken needle. The runner will appear as vertical line. Most machines have a stopping device to stop the machine when a needle breaks.

Sanforize Pucker : Results from uneven wetting out on sanforize; usually caused by defective spray heads. Fabric will appear wavy or puckering when spread on cutting table. Difficult to detect while inspecting on inspection machine with fabric under roller tension.

Scrimp : the result of fabric being folded or creased when passing through tenter frames.

Slub (woven fabric) : usually caused by an extra piece of yarn that is woven into fabric. It can also be caused by thick places in the yarn. Often is caused by fly waste being spun in yarn in the spinning process.

Slub (Knit fabric) : Usually caused by a thick or heavy place in yarn, or by ling getting onto yarn feeds.

Smash : caused by a number of ruptured warp ends that have been repaired.

Soiled Filling or End : Dirty, oily looking spots on the warp or filling yarns, or on packaged-dyed yarn.

Stop Mark : when the loom is stopped, the yarn elongates under tension; when the loom starts again, the slack is woven into the fabric.

Straying End : Warp Knit. Caused when an end of yarn breaks and the loose end strays and is knit irregularly into another area.

Thin Place: often caused by the filling yarn breaking and the loom continuing to run until the operator notices the problem.

Water Spots : Usually caused by wet fabric being allowed to remain too long before drying: color migrates leaving blotchy spots.

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