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Garden The
Spade January 2016
Home Hydroponic Systems Sarah Denkler, MU Extension Horticulture Specialist
Hydroponics is the process of growing plants in a sterile substrate or liquid, with
added nutrients. This system is soilless. The immediate advantage is ‘no soil’
however this may not be less expensive depending on what media you use to
support the plant. The basic plant needs still have to be met; air, light, water,
nutrients and support. An aggregate system is useful for meeting these
requirements and a good place to start for the beginner.
If you are starting seeds then you will need some type
of media for them to germinate. This could be peat
moss, sterilized potting mix in a mesh bag (panty
hose) or you can splurge for oasis foam. If you are
using transplants then you can use a plastic aquatic
basket filled with coconut coir, oasis cubes, clay
pebbles or peat moss.
The system will be based on the materials you have
access to, what you want to spend, the number of
plants you want to grow and where you want to grow
them. Chambers can be set up outside where light and
air are better available however temperature and weather patterns will vary as
well as disease pressure. If the hydroponic chamber is inside where temperature
(60-70°F) and light (6-8 hours sunlight per day) can be controlled, an ideal
environment can be created to grow plants for a longer period of time than might
be capable outdoors.
A chamber includes a container that must support water, the support system for
the plant, including support media, a system to introduce nutrients (this could be
your hand and a spoon) and a means of providing oxygen to the water. On a
home system this could be accomplished with a pump that is used in a fish tank.
Oxygen is required by roots to live and roots are required so that plants can take
up nutrients and water. Your system will not function,
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**In This Issue**
Home Hydroponics
Pruning for Plant
Improvement
Milkweed for
Monarchs
African Violets
Winter Onions
“Reliable, Responsive and Relevant Information for the Missouri Gardener”
Continued on page 2
$100 - Smart Herb Garden with Basil, Thyme and Lemon Balm Indoor Culinary Herb Grow Kit
(LED Grow Light Included).
even when all material and nutrients are available, if the roots are not healthy.
The simplest system could be a Styrofoam cooler or Rubbermaid container with holes cut in the top, fitted
with a container that allows water to penetrate from beneath. A support media will still be needed for
plants that will allow for air and moisture to be available to plants. An oxygen pump (fish tank air pump)
will be needed to provide oxygen to water. Another system could use either large diameter PVC pipe or
gutters as the chamber with sterile potting media or oasis cubes as the support media. When placed on a
slight decline, water containing nutrients, can be pumped by a submersible pump from a holding cell on
the ground to the top of the incline where it will trickle through the media and back to the hold cell for
recirculation.
Another option is to use a flood chamber. Plants are placed in a large tray
using a supporting media. A water holding chamber is located below or to
the side with a pump to move the water containing nutrients. The pump is on
a timer and floods the flood chamber at regular intervals and the water drains
back into the holding chamber. This system may not be right for the beginner
but is a great way to do a higher number of plants. Because you are not using
soil, it is important that you provide all necessary nutrients for plants. Most
who study these nutrients agree there are at least 16 necessary. Fertilizer
from a local box store will not be formulated for hydroponics, so another
supply source will be needed.
As you can see, starting a system can be expensive. Costs are relative to the
number of chambers created, their size and the type used. The time commitment and knowledge on
nutrient deficiency symptoms can also be detrimental for some who wish to try this system of growth.
Start with a small system and grow lettuce or herbs. As you gain experience, move to a larger system with
a greater variety of plants. What you grow depends on what your goal is. Many people will grow
vegetables because they are generally annuals (short lived) providing time for the system to be thoroughly
cleaned before the beginning of the next season. Disease can be the biggest enemy in a hydroponic system
so it is important to scout for fungal pathogens daily. This short lived cycle also helps with any changes in
water pH. As nutrients are added, the pH will change and must be monitored, much like that in a fish tank.
The longer the system is in place the more important it will be to monitor pH.
The Garden Spade January 2016 · 2
Plants with Winter Interest Katie Kammler, MU Extension Horticulture Specialist
Home Hydroponic Systems Sarah Denkler, MU Extension Horticulture Specialist
Bucket System can be found for around $300
Sources for Aquaponics Materials:
American Plant Products and Services: www.americanplant.com
Horizon Hydroponics: www.hhydro.com
American Hydroponics: www.amhydro.com
Eco Enterprises: www.ecogrow.com
bettergrowHYDRO: www.bghydro.com
Worm's Way www.wormsway.com 800-274-9676
Crop King www.cropking.com 330-769-2002
Johnny's Selected Seeds www.johnnyseeds.com 877 564-6697
The Garden Spade
January Gardening Calendar
Donna Aufdenberg, MU Extension Horticulture Specialist
Flowers and Ornamentals
Watch for Frost heaving.
Gently brush off heavy snows from tree and shrub branches.
Limbs damaged by ice or snow should be pruned off promptly to prevent bark
from tearing.
On warm days, check to see if any perennials have been heaved by freezing
and thawing of soil. Firmly press down any that have lifted and cover with at
least 2 inches of organic mulch.
Plan herbaceous flower beds now. Changes can be made early in the spring.
Vegetable Gardens
Finish Keeping up the winter garden.
Review your vegetable garden plans. Perhaps a smaller garden with fewer
weeds and insects will give you more produce.
As seed and nursery catalogs arrive, think of crops and varieties that you want
for the upcoming garden season.
Analyze last year’s planting, fertilizing and spraying records. Make notations
to reorder successful varieties, as well as those you wish to try again.
Before ordering new seed, do germination tests on seeds to see if the seeds are
still viable.
Indoor Plantings
Wash the dust off of house plant leaves on a regular basis. This allows the
leaves to gather light more efficiently and will result in better growth.
Start new plants from cuttings to revive overgrown plants.
Try not to over-water plants during the winter months. Always check the soil
for dryness before watering.
If plants seem to dry out too fast, make sure they are sitting away from areas
near heat vents or draftier areas.
Miscellaneous
Take time now to relax and read all of those horticultural magazines and gar-
den books that were put aside during the busy holiday season.
Draw a map of your garden and make copies of it. Beds usually stay in the
same place year after year, but the crops rotate each year. Each year, take a
clean copy of the plan and fill it in and use the back of the plan to record notes.
Keep each year’s plan in a three-ring binder for easy cross-checking of varie-
ties, rotations, etc.
It is time to start thinking FRUIT TREE MAINTENANCE. Plan to prune
your trees and apply dormant oil in the next couple of months.
When spraying fruit trees, make sure that you spray the whole tree and not just
the part that you can reach.
My Toast For
Your Garden in
the New Year:
A garden that’s green,
Plant diseases unseen.
Weeds that don’t grow,
Only plants that you
sow....
Seeds that grow true,
Insect pests few.
Gentle winds,
Gardening friends.
A garden that bears,
healthy harvests to
share.
This is my wish for
you.
~Mother of a Hubbard
(Cathy Rehmeyer)
January 2016 · 3
January Gardening Calendar Donna Aufdenberg, MU Extension Horticulture Specialist
The Garden Spade
Pruning for Plant Improvement Katie Kammler, MU Extension Horticulture Specialist
Pruning is the judicious removal of shoots or
branches of a plant to increase its economic value.
Pruning plants allows you to:
Improve survival chances at planting time
Control size and shape, remove dead,
diseased, weak or broken branches
Sun and air penetration
Maintain natural beauty
Direct
growth to
utilize space
efficiently
Rejuvenate
old plants
Control
flowering,
fruiting, or
colored
twig effect in certain plants
The best time to prune is during the late winter or
early spring, just before active growth begins.
This is the best time to prune for several reasons:
Wounds heal quickly
when growth starts
Undesirable branches
can be seen easily
without leaves to cover
them
The bark is less likely to
tear when cuts are made
The exception to this
rule is spring flowering
shrubs, because pruning
can remove the flower
buds. Prune these plants
after flowering.
The following types of
growth should be removed
when pruning:
January 2016 · 4
Water sprouts and other vertical growing
shoots
Branches growing in toward the center of the
tree
The weakest of branches that cross over or rub
other branches
Downward growing or drooping branches
Weakest of closely parallel growing branches
Long slender growth in the inner part of the
tree
There are many options for pruning tools. Use
the one that is best suited to the branch you are
pruning. The key is to make sure your tools are
sharp so you can make clean cuts. Cuts that
result in bark tears, stubs, or a jagged surface are
slow to heal, or they may not completely heal
over.
This is just an overview of basic pruning.
Ornamental trees and shrubs are pruned a little
differently than fruit trees, grapes and brambles.
If you have questions on pruning a specific plant,
contact your local extension specialist.
A. B.
C.
D.
E.
Tools For Pruning
A. Anvil Type Pruners for
general pruning.
B. Scissor Type pruners for
close-cut precision
C. Lopping shears are designed
to cut branches 3/4 to 1 1/2
inches in diameter.
D. Pruning saws are used for
branches larger than 1 1/2
inches in diameter.
E. Hedge shears are used for
shearing hedges or formally
shaped plants.
Pruning for Plant Improvement Katie Kammler, MU Extension Horticulture Specialist
The Garden Spade
January 2016 · 5
A Monarch (Danaus plexippus) floating on a summer breeze brings a smile to our face and joy to our
heart. They are so beautiful and graceful as they glide and flutter. They are inspiring as symbols of rebirth
and travelers on a great migration, but many are concerned about the Monarch’s future since reports began
to indicate populations at their overwintering sites in Mexico are dropping.
Estimates on the reduction average between 80 and 90% from populations 20
years ago.
The decrease in Monarchs is probably not due to a single issue but a combination
of many including: use of herbicides on farms and roadsides reducing butterfly
habitat, logging and industry in Mexico reducing habitat, and climate changes
including severe weather. The 2012 winter in Mexico destroyed 500 million
butterflies. Use of pesticides certainly has an effect also.
Loss of habitat really means loss of Milkweed which is the only host plant used by Monarchs. Host plants
serve as a nursery for butterfly eggs and a food source for the caterpillars after they hatch. The female
butterfly lays one egg on one Milkweed. She may lay over 400 eggs so she has to find 400 Milkweeds!
Good thing she can find them from over a mile away. She can use her vision to locate the plants but also
uses receptors in her antennae and feet. So, as you can see, without Milkweed we will have no Monarch
butterflies.
After hatching on the Milkweed, the caterpillar will eat and grow, molting a few
times, the last of which starts the chrysalis or pupa stage. The adult butterfly
emerges from the chrysalis and after a few hours of drying, it unfurls its wings and
begins to search for food. After a few weeks the cycle begins all over again with
the laying of eggs on Milkweed. Only about 1% of those eggs will actually become
an adult butterfly.
The Monarch selects Milkweed for a very special reason. In addition to being a
good food source Milkweed offers extra protection. One of the chemicals in the
white, sticky Milkweed sap is a glycoside that is safe for the caterpillar to eat, but a
toxin to any bird that may eat the caterpillar. Birds quickly learn to avoid that
caterpillar.
There are over 70 species of Milkweed and Missouri has several of these. The most prevalent are Common
Milkweed (Asclepias syriara), Swamp Milkweed (Asclepias incarnate) and Butterflyweed (Asclepias
turberosa). Milkweed has adapted to a wide range of habitats from swamps to sunny prairies. Like many
native plants its’ amazing root system enables it to survive in many different environments and weather
conditions. Milkweed has a pretty remarkable way of spreading its’ seed. Each plant will grow pods which
eventually dry and split open. Each seed inside is attached to a little fuzzy fluff which catches a ride on the
wind until it falls to the ground and the seed starts its lifecycle all over again.
So, what can you do to help the Monarch? Include native plants like the Milkweed in your gardens and
landscapes. There are so many reasons to do so besides helping the Monarchs and other pollinators. Native
plants are hardy, require less care, less water, and last for years. Usually because of their hardy nature you
use less chemicals which is good for the environment and us. Native plants help Continued on page 6
Plant Milkweed and Build a Village for Monarchs Jamie Koehler, Cape County Master Gardener
The Garden Spade
As a boy growing up in Nebraska most everyone
had a small patch of “winter onions” and rhubarb
growing by the side of their garden. The winter
onions are a subject unto themselves. The tops look
a lot like your normal onion but they also resemble
the tops of burn plants with a kind of thick hollow
stem. When we moved here from
Nebraska we picked the seed pods off the
tops of a number of the onions and started
a bed of winter onions here in Missouri.
You can virtually plant the winter onions
at any time during the year with fall being
the best time. You plant the onion bulbs
about an inch or so deep and then mulch
them with straw, say 3 inches of straw.
They are cold hardy so all the straw is for
is ground cover and a weed deterrent. I’d probably
leave them for the first year to allow them to
establish themselves. Then early in the spring (early
March here in Missouri) you can begin to pull a few
for green onions. You can use them to season soups
or scrambled eggs just as you would green onions.
As the summer progresses they will grow 2 to 3 feet
tall and a small set of onions will form on the tops
January 2016 · 6
Growing Winter Onions Rennie Phillips, Scott County Master Gardener
control erosion with their deep root system. The beauty they bring to the garden
is many-fold as they are pretty on their own but they also attract colorful birds and insects. Many people
will complain that native plants are invasive. Most, however, are easy to control with some effort.
Plant other varieties of native plants to serve as nectar or food sources for the adult
butterflies. They love Purple Coneflowers, Black Eyed Susan, Blazing Star, and
Buttonbush. Add a water source and you have created a haven for Monarchs. You
can enjoy both the flowers and the knowledge that you are helping the Monarch.
For additional information about native plants check out http://grownative.org/.
For additional information about Monarchs check out http://www.monarchwatch.org/ OR http://
missouriansformonarchs.blogspot
...Continued from page 5
of many of the onion stalks. These onions sets will
contain many small onion bulbs from about the size
of the eraser on a pencil up to dime or nickel size.
Each onion set or top may contain 10 to 15 small
onion bulbs. You can use these onion sets to season
with or to plant more onions. I have mine in an 8
foot by 4 foot raised bed so they
reseed themselves.
Late in the fall, say October or
November, there will be a new
growth of green onion plants. My
winter onion bed is just full of
green onions which are about the
right size for green onions. These
winter onions are very tough when
it comes to cold weather.
Winter onions are much stronger then normal
onions except in the spring and fall when they are
real small. Green winter onions in the spring or fall
are very similar in taste to normal green onions. But
as they mature they become very pungent and very
strong. About the only time I use my winter onions
is early in the spring (March and April) and then in
the Fall (October and November).
Growing Winter Onions Rennie Phillips, Scott County Master Gardener
Plant Milkweed and Build a Village for Monarchs Jamie Koehler, Cape County Master Gardener
The Garden Spade
January 2016 · 7
Upcoming Events The following Master Gardener meetings are held each
month. All are welcome to attend. Please contact your
local extension office to confirm location if you did not
attend the previous meeting.
Parkland MGs - 1st Monday at 6:30pm, Horticulture
Classroom at MAC, Park Hills
Poplar Bluff MGs - 1st Tuesday at 6:00pm at Fist Episcopal
Church in Poplar Bluff, MO (Do not meet in January)
Ste. Genevieve MGs - 2nd Thursday, at 6:30pm, Ste. Gen.
County Extension Center
Cape Girardeau MGs - 3rd Thursday at 7:00pm, Cape
County Extension Center
Perry MGs - 4th Monday at 6:30pm, Perry County Extension
Center
January
7-9 Great Plains Growers Conference in St. Joseph, MO
22 Hands-On Tree Pruning Workshop, Beggs Berry
World, 190 Hwy 332 in Benton, MO (Bring Own
Pruning Tools)
15-16 Ag Expo at Black River Coliseum in Poplar Bluff
23 Beginning and Experienced Beekeepers Class, 8:30
a.m. to 3 p.m., Mineral Area College, North College
Center
February
7 Beginning Beekeeping Workshop, 8 am to 4 pm at
the Butler County Extension Center in Poplar Bluff
9-10 Gateway Small Fruit and Vegetable Conf.,
O’Fallon, IL
13 Perryville Garden Symposium, Perry Higher Ed
Center in Perryville, MO
13-15 Midwestern Herb and Garden Show at the Times
Square Mall in Mt. Vernon Illinois
16 Master Gardener Training begins in Rolla, MO
24 Master Gardener Core Training at Butler County
Extension Center in Poplar Bluff, MO
March
5 Parkland Garden Symposium, Mineral Area College
10 Farmers’ Market Workshop in Jackson, MO
12 Cape Girardeau Master Gardener Spring Seminar
It is time to turn in your Master
Gardener Volunteer Hours! If you have
already completed your volunteer hours
for the year, please get them reported
online or send to your local Master
Gardener Coordinator (addresses are
located on the back of this newsletter).
If you need a new copy of hour
record sheet, you can find it at http://
mg.missouri.edumg forms.htm or
contact your local coordinator and
they will send you one.
We are really encouraging the
online reporting system this year.
Check out: http://
report.missourimastergardener.com/
Every year we update the Master
Gardener Directory. If you have not
turned in Master Gardener Hours for
3 years, you will be moved to the
inactive list.
If you have not turned in hours in
previous years and want to be active
again, contact us!
If any of your information has
changed (address, phone, or email),
please let us know.
These hours are important to us! They
help ensure the continuance of the
program.
Time to Turn in Master Gardener Hours
Donna Aufdenberg, MU Extension Horticulture Specialist
If you have problems reporting
hours, let one of us know...we are
here to help!
The Garden Spade
Growing African Violets Donna Aufdenberg, MU Extension Horticulture Specialist
African Violets come in many colors and varieties. They are very
adaptable to most growing conditions which makes them a wise choice
for novice and beginning gardeners.
They grow best when placed in bright, indirect light from a southeast or
west facing window. While you can expect reasonable success if you
grow African Violets in natural light, artificial light provides more
better growing conditions. The most common cause of bloom failure is
insufficient light. Thin, dark green leaves with long petioles indicates
too little light whereas stunted plants with short petioles and small
leathery leaves indicates too much light.
Violets grow best between 65 to 70 degrees F
night temperature with a 10 degree increase
during the day. Keep them away from chilly
windows. Cold with cause them to turn dark,
appear water soaked, and withered. If plants
are placed in temperatures above 80 degrees
F and sunrays are strong, leaves can scorch.
Humidity is beneficial for growth.
Proper watering is one of the most important
requirements for growing beautiful plants. Over
watering can cause root rot and crown rot.
Under watering can cause withering, browning
and death. Watering methods differ from gardener to gardener. The
main thing is to water thoroughly, and then allow the soil to dry
slightly between waterings. Avoid getting water on the leaves and
crowns.
Most water violets from the bottom because they believe the water
damages the leaves. It is not the water itself but the temperature of the
water that causes the damage. If you water with luke-warm water,
there is no danger of damaging the leaves. Regardless of how you
water, allow the plant to sit in the water of the saucer for no longer than
30 minutes to an hour...or however long it takes for the soil to
completely moisten. Discard any excess water that remains in the
saucer.
It is recommended to feed plants with a dilute fertilizer solution at each
watering, however, over fertilization tends to be a problem with
African Violets. A well balanced formula such as 20-20-20 is adequate
for most growing conditions if the plants are actively growing.
January 2016 · 8
Published monthly by University of
Missouri Extension Faculty for
individuals and families living state-
wide in Missouri. This newsletter is
provided by your local Extension
Specialists and Extension Councils.
Newsletter Editors:
Donna Aufdenberg
MU Horticulture Specialist
Marble Hill, MO
573-238-2420
Sarah Denkler
MU Horticulture Specialist
Poplar Bluff, MO
573-686-8064
Katie Kammler
MU Horticulture Specialist
Ste. Genevieve, MO
573-883-3548
Guest Writers:
Rennie Phillips
Scott County Master Gardener
573-382-9031
Jamie Koehler
Cape County Master Gardener
573-576-0675
The Garden Spade