Fabric Construction

Fabric Construction Methods

- Plain Weave

- Twill Weave

- Satin Weave

- Felted (Non-Woven)

- Knitted

Weaving

• The process of of interlacing two sets of

yarns placed at right angles to each other.

• Two sets of yarns

– Warp Yarns- Lengthwise yarns

– Weft Yarns- Crosswise yarns

Plain Weave

– A basic weave, that is a simple alternate interlacing of warp and filling yarns. Any type of yarn made from any type of fiber can be manufactured into a plain weave fabric.

Plain Weave Fabrics

• Basket Weave Gauze

• Batiste Georgette

• Broadcloth Gingham

• Calico Madras

• Canvas Muslin

• Challis Organdy

• Chambray Organza

• Chiffon Oxford

• Crepe Poplin

• Crepe de Chine Shantung

• Duck Taffeta

• Flannel

Twill Weave

• A basic weave that has a diagonal effect on the face, or right side, of the fabric. In some twill weave fabrics, the diagonal effect may also be seen clearly on the back side of the fabric.

Twill Weave Fabrics

• Denim

• Wool Flannel

• Gabardine

• Twill

• Tweeds

Satin Weave

• A basic weave, characterized by long floats of yarn on the face of the fabric. The yarns are interlaced in such a manner that there is no definite, visible pattern of interlacing and, in this manner, a smooth and somewhat shiny surface effect is achieved. The shiny surface effect is further increased through the use of high luster filament fibers in yarns which also have a low amount of twist. A true satin weave fabric always has the warp yarns floating over filling yarns.

Satin Weave Fabrics

• Brocade

• Jacquard

• Sateen

• Satin

• Damask

• Charmeuse

• Satin Faced Crepe

Knits

• Fibers are twisted into Yarns

which are looped together into

Fabric.

Knit Fabrics

• Weft Knits- also called filling.

– Jersey (t-shirts)

– Rib Knits (used on necklines &

sleeve cuffs)

• Warp Knits

– Swimwear- 4-way stretch

– Tricot- (lingerie)

Knitting

• Wales- Lines of loops that run the length

of knitted fabrics.

• Courses- Lines of loops that run

crosswise on the knitted fabric.

• Gauge- The number of stitches or loops

per inch in a knitted fabric.

Wales & Courses

Knit Fabrics

• Jersey

• Double Knit

• Panne Velvet (shown)

• Pointelle

• Tricot

• French Terry

Non-woven Fabrics

Made directly from fibers rather

than being made into yarns.

Fabric Names-

•Felt

•Fleece

•Ultrasuede©

•Vinyl

Bonded Fabrics

• Method of permanently joining two

layers of fabric together in some

way such as with a chemical

adhesive or fusible web.

Quilted Fabrics

• Quilted fabrics are made by

“sandwiching” a layer of padding

between two layers of fabric.

These layers are then joined

either with thread stitching or

“ultrasonic stitches. (Basically

stitches made my stitching with a

heated pin that melts the layers

together at the stitches.)

Pile Fabrics

• Pile Fabrics have loops or yarn ends

projecting from the flat woven or knit

surface.• Fabrics:

• Corduroy (shown)

• Velvet

• Velveteen

• Terrycloth