EVALUATION OF FINISHES

SUBMITTED TO :MR. JANMAY SINGH HADA

PRESENTED BY :ADHISHESH VERMAAJAY SINGH CHAUHANAVISHEKKUMAR SHANURIDDHI MALVIYASHYAMLEE SHREYA

Types of finishes we have evaluated :

WATER REPELLENT AND WATER PROOF

SOIL RESISTENT

FLAME RESISTENT

CREASE RESISTENT

RESIN ( DURABLE PRESS)

SANFORIZATION

INTRODUCTION

Water proof

Treated with chemicals to give them a property which makes them water resistant.Uses: raincoats, umbrellas, and tarpaulins.

1. WATER RESISTANT FINISH

Water repellent

Non Durable: Wax

Durable: Fluoro polymer

COMPARISON

RAIN TEST

BREATHING TEST

SPRAY TEST

TESTING

As specified in JIS L 1092.

BEST

•100 pts •90 pts

GOOD

•80 pts •70 pts •50 pts

WORST •0 pts

Elements Cost ( in Rs. / Linear meter)Water repellent Finishing Cost

i) Water repellent finishing Chemicals 3.2-4.5

ii) Water and Effluent Treatment 0.35-0.40

iii) Manpower 0.45-0.50

iv) Steam 0.25-0.30

v) Electricity 0.25-0.30

Drying Cost in CDR

i) Manpower 0.3-0.40

ii) Steam 0.66-0.70

iii) Electricity 0.42-0.50

Curing Cost in Stenter

i) Manpower 0.3-0.40

ii) Steam 1.9-2.2

iii) Electricity 0.80-1.0

Total Cost ( in Rs. / Linear meter) 7.20-8.10

Final Cost Analysis based on bulk scale trial for WATER REPELLENT

Finishing

2. SOIL RESISTANT FINISHES:

Permit relatively easy removal of soil.

Necessary in hydrophobic fiber.

Durable for 40 to 50 washes

EVALUATION:

OILY SOIL RELEASE TESTING

SOIL REDEPOSITION

MOISTURE TRANSPORT

OILY SOIL RELEASE TESTING:

It specifies all the parameters that strongly influence soil release of oily soil.

SOIL REDEPOSITION:

The fabric to be tested are exposed to a soiling medium during laundering with standard detergent.

The change in reflectance of the fabric before and after the testing is an indication of redeposition potential of fabric.

MOISTURE TRANSPORT:The procedure is used to determine the degree of

absorbency of fabric with soil release agents.

3. FLAME RESISTENT FINISH

Flame-resistance rating

•The time in seconds for which a fabric can withstand a standard fire resistance test.

Flame-resistant

•A flame resistant fabric is one whose flame resistant rating is high i.e. above 150

USES:•Uniforms of firefighters, military personnel, police officers, paramedics, welders, some industrial workers; Children’s sleepwear

TESTING

Vertical Strip test

Testing for thermoplastics

EVALUATION OF F.R. FINISH :

VERTICAL STRIP TEST

Three samples consisting of five specimens each are

tested. An item is considered acceptable if

The average char length of the five specimens

that make up a sample does not exceed 180 mm

TESTING CRITERION

Heat transfer EN 367 

Levels Requirements:

B1 3 < HTI < 6 sec.

B2 7 < HTI < 12 sec.

B3 13 < HTI < 20 sec.

B4 21 < HTI < 30 sec.

B5 HTI > 31 sec.

Elements Cost ( in Rs. / Linear meter)Fire-Retardant Finishing Cost

i) Fire Retardant finishing Chemicals 4.4-5.0ii) Water and Effluent Treatment 0.35-0.40iii) Manpower 0.45-0.50iv) Steam NILv) Electricity 0.25-0.30

Drying Cost in CDRi) Manpower 0.3-0.40ii) Steam 0.66-0.70iii) Electricity 0.42-0.50

Curing Cost in Stenteri) Manpower 0.3-0.40ii) Steam 1.9-2.2iii) Electricity 0.80-1.0

Total Cost ( in Rs. / Linear meter) 9.83-11.4

Final Cost Analysis based on bulk scale trial for Fire Retardant Finishing

Reference: J.T. M. R&D Dept.

4. CREASE RESISTANT FINISHES:

Purpose: To reduce annoying and unsightly wrinkling in apparel.

Used in : blouses, shirts ,pants.

Applied: cotton rayon and flax

1. TOOTAL TEST

2. THE SHIRLEY CREASE RECOVERY TEST

3. VISUAL COMPARISION

AGAINST STANDARDS

EVALUATION:

THE TOOTAL TEST:

•Test specimens are cut from the fabric.

•The specimen is folded over and creased by placing under a strip of spring steel with a 500 g weight to supply the pressure for creasing.

•After 5 min, the specimen is removed and suspended over a wire and allowed for recovery for 3 min ,after which the distance between the ends of the inverted ‘V’ is read from a scale engraved on a mirror below the wire .

•To avoid touching of the specimen.

THE SHIRLEY CREASE RECOVERY TEST:

The instrument consists of a circular dial which carries the clamp for holding the specimen.

Directly under the center of the dial is a knife edge and an index line for measuring the recovery angle.

The Shirley crease recovery tester

VISUAL COMPARISION AGAINST STANDARDS:

•The fabric is creased in a random manner •Assessed against either photographic standards or against three dimensional replicas of creased fabrics.

Elements Cost ( in Rs. / Linear meter)Crease resistantFinishing Cost

i) Crease resistant finishing Chemicals 2.10-2.50ii) Water and Effluent Treatment 0.35-0.40iii) Manpower 0.45-0.50iv) Steam 0.25-0.30v) Electricity 0.25-0.30

Drying Cost in CDRi) Manpower 0.3-0.40ii) Steam 0.66-0.70iii) Electricity 0.42-0.50

Curing Cost in Stenteri) Manpower 0.3-0.40ii) Steam 1.9-2.2iii) Electricity 0.80-1.0

Total Cost ( in Rs. / Linear meter) 6.75-7.10

Final Cost Analysis based on bulk scale trial for CREASE RESISTANT Finishing :

5. Resin Finish :-

Any Finish Which Is Treated By Chemical Is Known As

“RESIN Finish”.

Method :-

PAD DRY CURE

At least 2 functional group i.e. hydroxyl group and 2 Methylol

groups react with cellulose hydroxyl compounds in DMDHEU

resin.

Wrinkle Free Fabrics :-

Durable Press Fabrics :-

Parameters To Estimate The Costing Of

Resin Finish :- Type Of Material.

Chemical Used

Cloth Length

Chemical Cost

Labor Cost

Transportation Cost

Parameters To Evaluate The Resin Finish :-

Aesthetic

• Texture, Look, Appearance, Drapeability etc.

Functional

• Handling, Stability, Strength

• Stiffness, Wear ability etc.

6. SANFORIZATION

Definition•Process of treatment used for cotton fabrics. Mostly used for textiles made from natural or chemical fibers.

Mechanism•“To place the fabric on the extended surface of a rubber blanket represented by the concave surface ”.

USES: •Used mainly for denims

Standards for Shrinkage of Sanforized

Labeled Woven Fabrics

Woven fabrics shall not either shrink or gain in excess of

1% in either the warpwise or the weftwise direction when

subjected to the wash-test method of the United States

Federal specification number CCC-T-191A or ISO 675.

STANDARDS

Elements Cost ( in Rs. / Linear meter)Sanforizing Cost

i) Sanforizing Chemicals 2.10-2.50

ii) Water and Effluent Treatment 0.35-0.40

iii) Manpower 0.45-0.50

iv) Steam 0.25-0.30

v) Electricity 0.25-0.30

Drying Cost in CDR

i) Manpower 0.3-0.40

ii) Steam 0.66-0.70

iii) Electricity 0.42-0.50

Curing Cost in Stenter

i) Manpower 0.3-0.40

ii) Steam 1.9-2.2

iii) Electricity 0.80-1.0

Total Cost ( in Rs. / Linear meter) 6.75-7.10

Final Cost Analysis based on bulk scale trial for SANFORIZING