elizabeth arden

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• Who we are • The big picture • Looking ahead • Where to go next

Agenda

Key Advisory Teammembers

Valeria Piaggio Geography: Latin America Category: CPG; Retail Demos: Women, Affluent

Nick Chiarelli Geography: Europe Category: Travel & Leisure Demos: Seniors / Aging

Jeff Yang Geography: China, Korea, Japan Category: Media & Tech; Money / Spending Demos: Midlifers; Middle Class

Shreya Mukherjee Geography: India, Australia Category: Health & Beauty, Fitness, Sustainability Demos: Young Adults, Emerging Consumers

Stefania Revelli Category: Health & Beauty; Travel & Leisure Demos: Women

Corinne Asturias Category: Sustainability Demos: Boomers / Midlifers

Kelly Koster Category: Health & Beauty; Wellness; Personal Care

Jennifer Haid Category: Health & Beauty; CPG

Global Consumer Advisory

Global Strategists

Consumer Strategists

Cultural Fluents

• Real-time observation

• Cultural analysis

• Transcultural insight

• Strategic foresight

• Category and demographic expertise

The Cultural Fluent Network

• Dozens of native cultural experts • Hundreds of immersed observers

The Advisory Insights Matrix Media/

Entertain. Tech Food Beverage

Transpor-tation

Travel/ Leisure

Financial Services

Health/ Beauty

Retail/ CPG

Home/ Garden

Green

Kids & Teens

Young Adults

Midlifers

Seniors

BOP

MC

Affluent

Women

Men

USA CAN ARG BRA MEX FRA GER ITA SPA GBR RUS TUR CHN JPN KOR AUS IND

GLOBAL STRATEGISTS

CATEGORY EXPERTS DEMO TEAM

AMERICAS EUROPE E. ASIA S.A./PAC. CULTURAL FLUENTS


Agenda

EAST ASIA THEN

Beauty was… • Black lustrous hair

and temples "as thin as cicada wings”

• Finely shaped black eyebrows

• Large, bright expressive eyes

• Red lips and white teeth

• Fair, smooth skin

• Slender waist, tiny feet and a light elegant gait

• Fragrant body

Xi Shi (西施)

18th Century Korean Beauty 1950s Photograph of Bijin

EAST ASIA NOW

Gong Li “Artificial Beauty” Hao Lulu

Beauty is becoming…

• Slender • Curvaceous • Cute • Expressive • Enhanced

Kim Tae-Hee Norika Fujiwara

The idea of what is beautiful in China is greatly influenced by Korea, Japan and the West. Long legs and a thin waist are considered beautiful, but more and more the ideal female figure is curvy, though less so than what is ideal in the West. That's why Gong Li is the paragon of beauty here. Even though she’s 40, she’s still featured in many cosmetic ads — she has a ripe body with a very classic Chinese face, fair skin, shiny hair, white teeth, large eyes, and a small nose and mouth.

—Naudia Lou, Iconoculture Cultural Fluent, China

Many young women, and even some older ones, equate cute with beautiful. A lot of guys like the cute look too, because it meshes with their view of how a woman should appear — presentable, attractive, but not threatening or overtly sexual.

—Will Jasprizza, Iconoculture Cultural Fluent, Japan

In Korea, beauty is hard work. There’s no shame in going under the knife — more and more people, including men, are doing it, thinking they’ll do better in life if they’re more attractive. They’re probably right. Pale skin, wide eyes and slender builds are prized — girlish features over voluptuous, cute over sensual.

—Jeongmae Choi, Iconoculture Cultural Fluent, Korea

SOUTH ASIA THEN

Beauty was… • “The ideal woman in

ancient India was said to be endowed with thick thighs and broad lips, balanced by a slender waist and heavy breasts. Her lips, the tips of her fingers and toes, and the palms and soles of her feet were tinted with red lacquer. Every effort was made to enhance her beauty. Her physical characteristics were emphasized as they were linked to notions of love, passion and sexuality.” —K.L. Kamat

19th Century Indian Beauty

Mughal Empire Beauty

Pramila, first Miss India, 1947

SOUTH ASIA NOW


• Fair • Slender • Wide-eyed • Lush • Youthful Kareena Kapoor

Deepika Padukone Bipasha Basu

Sensuality, elegance and femininity are the important traits underlying beauty in India. There’s still a very traditional aspect to beauty here — so large eyes and long hair are a must…and Indians are also obsessed with fair skin. In terms of body, voluptuousness is still preferred to the athletic or muscular look, but there is an increasing emphasis on toning and fitness. If there’s a perfect look, it’s a mix of the exotic (fair skin, light eyes) and familiar (long hair, traditional attire).

—Anindita Sengupta, Iconoculture Cultural Fluent, India

Maria Louphina Gagarin sister

Beauty was… “A man isn’t a dog — he doesn’t pounce on bones.” — Russian saying

“The Russian fairy-tale standard of beauty is krov' s molokom — ‘blood with milk’: skin white as snow, ruby red lips, hair dark as a raven's wing.” —AlexanderPalace.org

“The eyes! Russian women have eyes different from anyone else’s. British, American women — they give you an empty stare.” — Oleg Tinkov

EASTERN EUROPE THEN

Yekaterina Heidenreich “Woman of the City”

EASTERN EUROPE NOW

Politician Alina Kabayeva

Model Natalia Vodianova

Model Eugenia Kuzmina


• Athletic • Blonde • Slender • Sculpted • Fresh

Model Sasha Pivovarova

The current ideal female beauty in Russia is associated with natural grace, refined facial features, a fit body and an essential sensuality. This ideal is also linked to ‘internal beauty’ which can be interpreted as psychological harmony and a sense of self-confidence. ‘Looking natural’ is preferable, but makeup (sometimes excessive amounts) is often seen as ‘required.’

—Anna Coppola, Iconoculture Cultural Fluent, Russia

Beauty was… “The woman Botticelli painted was the personification of beauty as he perceived it: Perfect alabaster skin, symmetrical features, high forehead, sharply defined chin, pale skin, strawberry blond hair, high delicate eyebrows, strong nose, narrow mouth and full lips. She has a confident but delicate manner. Her body is clothed, but the diaphanous and sumptuous gown covers a full figure with an ample bosom, rounded abdomen and wide hips.” — Neil Haughton, “Perceptions of Beauty in Renaissance Art”

WESTERN EUROPE THEN

1778, Countess Harrington

19th C. Young Lady

Botticelli’s Venus, 1485

WESTERN EUROPE NOW


• Mature • Fit • Classic • Confident • Sexy Model Laetitia Casta Model Heidi Klum

Actress Kate Beckinsale Actress Monica Bellucci

The French go for classical beauty with a twist. Laetitia Casta is considered exceptionally beautiful for a woman in her 40s — hers is really an eternal look for France. But the French aren't as focused on 'natural' appearances. Being properly made up and groomed is important — as is being thin. People admire self-discipline in personal care here.

—Lindsay Paterson, Iconoculture Cultural Fluent, France

The standard image of beauty in Germany is much like that found in the rest of Northern Europe. In that sense, it's rather familiar and uniform: Blonde, tall and thin. Exotic looks are not particularly prized in Germany — indeed, there's still a very homogenous feel to the culture here, and non-white individuals are rarely seen on television or in the media, especially print.

—Edward Velasco, Iconoculture Cultural Fluent, Germany

In the U.K., we're currently into a twist on the 'English rose' ideal — pale but interesting, conventionally pretty but with a hint of the exotic, otherworldly and elfin in their facial features. Our beauties now are a bit ambiguous, a little androgynous, untouchable one minute and the approachable girl-next-door the next.

—Kelly Stevens, Iconoculture Cultural Fluent, U.K.

Beauty was… “Although Latin women present anatomical diversity, depending on the area of Central and South America they come from, [traditional]standards include a voluptuous, guitar-shaped body, olive skin and dark hair. Unlike other ethnic groups, they don't want to attain the ‘perfect Barbie-doll’ look, but to look young and sexy at any age. They will always strive to age gracefully and radiate sensuality.” —NewImage.com

LATIN AMERICA THEN

19th Century Brazil

Argentina 1950s Martha Rocha, Miss Brazil 1954

LATIN AMERICA NOW


• Fit • Thin • Blonde • Fair • Enhanced

Daniela Urzi, Argentina

Jimena Navarrete, Mexico Miss Universe 2010

Gisele Bundchen, Brazil

Beauty for Argentines means being born attractive. Artificial beauty in general is not prized as much as elsewhere in Latin America. There's been a number of shifts in the past half century, similar to in the West, from curvy and natural to skinny and pale and androgynous to healthy, fit bodies, preferably with a tan. That said, being thin is a highly prized here — it's an obsession.

—Paula Alvarado, Iconoculture Cultural Fluent, Argentina

Beauty in Brazil is about vitality, sensuality — and being very thin, but still having curves where they're needed. Truthfully, we have a tendency to want to be what we're not: Though most of us are dark eyed, dark haired and darker skinned, blond, blue-eyed and straight-haired women are seen as the most beautiful. For many women, the attitude is, if you don't have it, fake it.

—Juliana Bessa, Iconoculture Cultural Fluent, Brazil

Mexico a diverse population, and our standard of beauty follows suit. Light-colored eyes and fair skin are prized, but there are plenty of beauties who are dark-haired and dark-eyed as well. Curves are appreciated, and reinforced by what women wear; ultimately, feminine beauty here is about sensuality. it's not just what you have, but what you do with it that matters. —Kelly Stevens, Iconoculture Cultural Fluent, U.K.

THE THREE FUNCTIONAL NEED STATES

WESTERN EUROPE


Agenda

Using trends and adjacencies for foresight

The big shifts shaping our world.

• SOCIAL

• TECHNOLOGICAL

• ECONOMIC

• ENVIRONMENTAL

• POLITICAL

Game Changers

SOCIAL: Agequake

Inexorably aging populations are reshaping the social, technological, economic and political realities of markets in North America, Europe and East Asia.

How is the “great grey shift” changing notions of beauty and personal care needs and preferences — and how will the age gap change relationships between the developed and developing world?

1950 28.6

1980 31.9

2010 40.0

2040 46.0

from church steeple to minaret

TREND: The Singularity Boom Rising divorce rates coupled with a widespread delay in or outright rejection of — marriage in favor of career and personal goals mean a spike in the global demographic of “Just Ones”

OBSERVATION: The New Girl Order As recently as the ’80s, the dominant image of the Japanese woman was of the housewife, or sengyoshufu; now it’s the arasa, the fashionable, sophisticated single in her 30s, embracing the life of the otona-gyaru (grown-up gal).

In 1960, 70% of American 25-year-old women were married with children; in 2000, only 25% of them were. In 1970, just 7.4% of all American 30- to 34-year-olds were unmarried; today, the number is 22%. That change took about a generation to unfold, but in Asia and Eastern Europe the transformation has been much more abrupt. In South Korea, 40% of 30-year-olds are single, compared with 14% only 20 years ago.

• As more women delay marriage, there’s been a greater incentive to stretch not youth, but “youthfulness” — vitality, confidence, even girlish whimsy — later into life. Today’s thirtysomething, fortysomething and even fiftysomething New Girls are adventurous, sophisticated and maybe a little riskier than they were in their first girlhood, so take that into account in the color and fragrance needs.

• In fact, chronological aging and psychological aging are diverging more and more. Update the “anti-aging” movement with a future-oriented message that benchmarks today rather than yesterday, setting women up for success as they age.

Implications for Elizabeth Arden

TECHNOLOGICAL: WeMedia

As media consumption, creation and distribution atomizes and becomes increasingly personal…

…the balance of power in media is swinging dramatically and permanently in the direction of the consumer

TREND: Magic Mirrors Mirror mirror, on the wall, who’s the fairest of them all? Mirror mirror, in the hand, who’s the fairest in the land? Technological revolutions plus are giving consumers a new way to see themselves at their best

OBSERVATION: Shiseido’s Augmented Makeovers Shiseido’s augmented-reality beauty kiosks have been a huge hit in Japan, and now have been installed in over 30 locations. A mobile phone version is coming soon.

OBSERVATION: iTry Before iBuy OPI’s nail color sampling app; iStylist; ModiFace’s Skin Match app

• These days consumers see their phones as an extension of their bodies. Empower them to use their mobile platforms to optimize their mobile mes. How about an app that provides personalized color, fragrance and skin consultation — taking into account their baseline appearance and desired look, along with variables like time of day, climate, purchasing power, and location?

• Even better, let consumers go social with the app by incorporating picture-taking and location-based check-ins. “This is where I am, and this is how I look today” could be the seed of a powerful platform for consumers to share and express beauty preferences and habits with friends and loved ones.


ECONOMIC: Womanomics

Globally, women control nearly $12 trillion of the $18 trillion total overall consumer spending, a figure predicted to rise to $15 trillion by 2014. In developing nations, women's earned income is growing at 8.1%, compared to 5.8% for men.

The majority of tertiary degrees are now being awarded to women. Highly qualified, well-educated and ambitious, these women are taking over the talent pool from Delhi to Dubai.

TREND: Experiential Luxury With “masstige” brands filling closets and shelves, independent and empowered women are pushing the meaning of luxe — focusing on unique, memory-making, braggable options over keeping up with Miss Jones.

OBSERVATION: Vinotherapy spas raise spirits Wine isn't just for drinking anymore. European spas offering vinotherapy — using grape juice and polyphenols extracted from grape seeds — are booming by offering pairings of sip and soak.

OBSERVATION: Bollycare Indian celebrities are capitalizing on their popularity by getting into the salon and fitness biz. In mid-2009, Bollywood star Shilpa Shetty opened a chain of medi-spas around Mumbai called Iosis.

• More and more women aren’t just professsionals — they’re entrepreneurs. Support women-owned businesses with complementary makeovers, sample products…and maybe even funding for new business ideas.

• Sponsor sharing circles for female executives to connect and build networks — New Girls to combat the Old Boys.

• Embrace self-empowering woman as a cause. Create a line that transparently uses woman-owned suppliers in emerging markets for ingredients, donates a portion of profits to women’s support causes and actively educates, informs and celebrates the rising power of independent working women.


ENVIRONMENTAL: Social Insecurity

Beset by natural disasters, geopolitical tensions, unstable regimes, economic fragility, and environmental degradation

Consumers are feeling less certain of the future (and less willing to trust the present) than ever before

TREND: The New Austerity New Austerity consumers are doing what comes naturally in a time of scarcity: cutting back, streamlining their lives, and adjusting their goals and priorities to reflect lower incomes or greater uncertainty.

OBSERVATION: Turkish women trade down to local Despite a weak economy, women in Turkey haven’t given up “affordable luxuries.” They’re simply opting for cheaper mass brands over imported goods. Capitalizing on this trend are local firms like Sevil, Evyap and Kopas Kozmetik.

OBSERVATION: Mori Girls “Girls of the Forest” are pushing gothic lolitas out of Harajuku — with earth tones, simple makeup (or none at all), and layered, unstructured outfits that emphasize comfort and convenience over glam

• Reinforce the notion that “green equals green” — find ways to help consumers streamline, cut waste and cut costs, saving money while also saving the earth. Refillable dispensers, low-impact packaging, right-sized portions all might make the cut. Or follow the lead of supermarkets and create a stylish and sustainable makeup bag that customers can bring back and refill rather than getting new plastic each time they visit.

• Underscore simplicity in your products. The desire to cut back on expenses is tied to larger value shifts around personal streamlining. For those who want to reduce both time and cost, offer a stripped-down, lightweight beauty regimen that delivers quality and results in fewer steps, without extra effort and expense.


POLITICAL: The Centerless World

The balance of political, cultural and economic influence is moving from unitary sources (“superpowers”) to networks, clusters and dynamically organized coalitions.

What does this mean for America, which until recently was being spoken about as the sole remaining “ultrapower”?

TREND: Roots Rejuvenated Globalization is updating consumer tastes, yet many of the products that are truly connecting with consumers are reminiscent of traditional culture, folkloric customs and local tastes and flavors.

OBSERVATION: Personal Care from the Past Even as TCM and ayurveda thrive in China and India, Mexicans are turning to balms from the tepezcohuite plant for pain relief, while Argentineans are rediscovering the power of yerba mate in spa treatments and even perfumes

OBSERVATION: Transformed Tradition More local brands are seeking to use old-school principles to create modern beauty regimens. Himalaya Herbal has boomed with its ready-to-use ayurvedic care line, while China’s Herborist brand has done much the same with TCM.

• For in-market consumers, taking a Roots Rejuvenated cue and incorporating indigenous ingredients provides comfortable familiarity and a sense of local belonging and investment; for consumers across borders, it can offer exotic appeal

• Remember that reaching back to the folkloric isn’t just about what goes in the product. It’s also about how it’s packaged, positioned, distributed and applied. Think of ways to incorporate traditional packaging and sales channels, as well as ritual elements that enhance the experiential element of a culturally distinctive offering.



Agenda

• Defining beauty (skin care) today: How do (midlifer) women around the world perceive and define beauty today? What are some of the values and motivators driving their beauty/skin care goals?

• Cultural context: What are some of cultural tenets of beauty in different markets? How is this evolving, if at all?

• Compare and contrast across markets: What are the similarities and differences across markets, with regards to how beauty is being defined and pursued?

• Best Practices among target market: What are some of the products, brands, celebrities that women are embracing, aspiring… in order to achieve their beauty goal/s? What is working / what isn’t?

• Trends and Implications: Global beauty trends and what this may mean for Elizabeth Arden.

Elizabeth Arden Key Questions

We can help you: • Get smart fast: Rich, rapid-response overviews of a demo, category or phenomenon • Identify risks and opportunities: Assessment of the cultural, market and competitive landscape • Explore adjacencies: Understanding of business areas, target audiences and geographic regions related to yours • Learn best practices: Successful examples in your space • Validate strategy: Analysis and optimization of branding, positioning and new product plans • Brainstorm and innovate: Identification of white space, consumer-driven ideation, forward-leaning projection

An Extension of Your Team

IconoIQ Global Searchable source of real-time insights, rich media and syndicated reports covering Iconoculture’s full range of categories, demographic segments and geographic markets

DIY exploration or research request fulfilled by CSM

Turnaround: Instant / 1 day

Global Advisory

Strategists create an advisory brief — insights supported by trends, observations, data points and market facts already in our insights database

Briefs typically run 3-6 pages and serve as backdrop and takeaway for an interactive one-hour discussion.

Turnaround: 5 days

Quick Pulses

Strategists work with you to develop a research guide that is then distributed to Cultural Fluents across up to five markets to obtain targeted insights, observations, and media

The results of their investigation is delivered in a 5-7 page report and presented in an interactive one-hour discussion.

Turnaround: 10-14 days

Custom Inquiries Strategists work with you to develop a research guide that is then distributed to Cultural Fluents across up to five markets with instructions to conduct primary observational research, which may include consumer and expert interviews, home visits, retail walkthroughs and other observational excursions

The results of their investigation is delivered in a 15-25 page report and presented in an interactive one-hour discussion.

Turnaround: 4-6 weeks

Deliverables Global Deliverable

What it means for you What do I get?

IconoIQ 24/7-everything access to Global View’s lifestyle monitor

Observation articles: across categories and demographics

Global Advisory

Top-level look at key trends Broad: Interactive discussion, translation of specific IconoIQ data such as “How are consumers spending their free time? What are top trends in Leisure?”

Quick Pulse Urgent “fill in the blanks” for a current project

Specific but not deep: “Examples of brands in the apparel category that Chinese consumers typically associate with status and luxury.”

Custom Inquiries

Deep-dive into specific consumer questions, excellent for compare and contrast across markets

Specific and deep: “What are some of the hygiene and bathing cultures among women in BRIC markets?”

Consulting Deep-dive into specific projects: NPD, affirmation of strategy

Lifestyle Persona projects, Matrices, open to scope

On-site Consumer Outlooks

Strategist interaction for a day, Consumer day immersion, BU engagement and inspiration

One or two strategists presenting (on-site) customized content as scoped.

Global View Advantage: Global Contrasts Challenge: The company, the world’s largest game and toy company, was looking to take a largely U.S.-based brand focused on cooking and food-related play and bring it to global audiences. They wanted to better understand global food culture and culinary trends for parents and children, with a particular focus on the preservation of traditions and fostering intergenerational connections.

The Global View Solution: A global advisory call featuring strategists with expertise in parents, food / beverage and toys / gaming Iconoculture strategists prepared a brief that identified key trends shaping food culture and culinary play for kids in representative markets around the world, then engaged in a highly interactive conversation with the client’s global brand management team around those trends, illustrating critical taboos and opportunities

Success Story: Food for Thought

Global View Advantage: Strategic Validation Challenge: A global leader in consumer technology was preparing for a large-scale survey of youth and young adult mobile computer users and wanted to ensure that their direction of investigation was relevant to consumers in the fast-moving emerging markets of Asia and Latin America. Due to the size and scale of the study, they needed response faster than they could obtain using traditional qualitative means.

The Global View Solution: A quick pulse covering five key markets. Iconoculture connected with Fluents and observers in key emerging markets in the regions of greatest concern to the client, and reviewed the trends the client intended to explore. In the course of the investigation, Fluents identified critical trends that had been overlooked in initial analysis, and language used in certain questions that could lead to ambiguous results.

Left: Flickr.com/photos/luschei image; right: Flickr.com/photos/nathancolquhoun image

Success Story: Checking Connection

Success Story: Designing for Growth

Global View Advantage: Deep Context Challenge: The client, a leader in automobile interior design, had conducted a quantitative study on projected automobile growth by country that pointed to the opportunity in emerging markets. But in order to design better car interiors for the global consumer, the company needed sociocultural context: the different ways consumers in those countries get around, how they use their vehicles and, most importantly, what the car signifies for them.

The Global View Solution: A custom inquiry covering five key markets.

By identifying key cultural traits and emerging trends in the transportation category, the client was able to get a handle on the unique needs, wants and desires of the car owner in these markets, and to visualize the optimal solutions for their demographic targets.

Draft Investigative Roadmap 3 2 1

The Singularity Boom

New Girl Order

The New Austerity Mori Girls

Roots Rejuve-nated

Tradition Trans-fomred

discovery choice thrift simplicity

identity sustainability empowerment

Macrotrends

Consumer Trends and Observations

Underlying Consumer Values

TBD Potential Areas for Inquiry

STEEP FACTORS

TBD TBD

AGEQUAKE THE NEW AUSTERITY CENTERLESS WORLD

heritage legacy self-sufficiency

Impact on Business Areas • TBD • TBD • TBD

elizabeth arden

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