Session III

TODAY’S DISCOVERIES:

Wines of France French wine history Wine classifications of France

1855/2009 Wine regions of France Eau de Vie and dessert wine Champagne Reading a French label

Wines of Germany Classifications of German wines Reading a German wine label

1855 BORDEAUX CLASSIFICATION

Pioneers in marketing and regulating the Wine Industry

Napoleon III hosted the Paris Universal Exposition Designed to show off the best products of France Bordeaux Chamber of Commerce participated to

put together a list of the best wine estates Ranked the Châteaux into five categories in

descending quality from “1st Growth” (Premier Cru) to “5th Growth” (Cinquième Cru)

Followed unofficial classifications that had been in existence for centuries

The four original Bordeaux Premier Crus Châteaux were:Château Margaux, Château Latour, Château Haut-Brion, and

Château Lafite-Rothschild; Château Mouton-Rothschild was raised from second growth to first growth in 1973, making it five.

APPELLATION D’ORIGINE CONTROLÉE SYSTEM

In 1935, AOC laws passed to control wine quality

Governed by a powerful oversight board Strict laws regulating viticulture & viniculture One of the oldest systems maintaining

protected designation of origin for wines in the world

Other European systems are modeled after it The word appellation is used by other countries

Sometimes in a much-looser meaning Trend likely to continue with further EU

expansion

OLD FRENCH AOC LAW CATEGORIES

AOC had four categories prior to 2006 Two falling under the European Union's

Table Wine category Vin de Table Vin de Pays

Two under the EU's Quality Wine Produced in a Specific Region (QWPSR) designation Vin Delimite de Qualite Surperièure (VDQS) Appellation d’Origine Controlée (AOC)

OLD AOC LAW CATEGORIES PART DEUX

Vin de Table Assures designation and producer is French

Vin de Pays Assures specific region within France Subject to less-restrictive regulations than AOC wines Producers allowed to distinguish wines that are made

using specific grape varieties or procedures Vin Delimite de Qualite Surperièure (VDQS)

For smaller areas or “in waiting" to become an AOC This category was abolished in 2011

Appellation d’Origine Controlée (AOC) Wine from a particular area with many restrictions,

including grape varieties and winemaking methods

NEW FRENCH AOC LAW CATEGORIES

The wine classification system of France had been under overhaul for three years beginning in 2006

The new system introduced fully in 2009

Consists of 3 categories rather than 4

The category corresponding to VDQS was eliminated

NEW AOC LAW CATEGORIES PART DEUX

Vin de France Category basically replacing Vin de Table, but

allowing grape variety and vintage to be indicated on the label

Indication Geographique Protegée (IGP) An intermediate category replacing Vin de Pays

Appellation d’Origine Protegée (AOP) The highest category basically replacing AOC

wines

There are many wine-growing regions in

France……each is very unique. Even within each region, there is

diverse terroir

ALSACE Situated in eastern France on the river

Rhine Borders Germany, with which it shares

many grape varieties and a tradition of varietal labeling

Primarily a white-wine region, though some red, rosé, sparkling and sweet wines are also produced

Fabulous wines made from Gewürztraminer, Riesling, Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Noir and Muscat

But let’s not forget Eau de Vie!

HOW DO THEY GET THE PEAR

IN THE BOTTLE?

Poire Williams…

INNOVATIONS OF ALSACE & THEIR EAU DE VIE

BORDEAUX

Large region on the Atlantic coast Long history of exporting its wines overseas Primarily a red wine region Famous for the five Premier Crus The red wines produced are usually blended

From Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Malbec, and Petit Verdot

Dry and sweet white wines also produced, including some of the world's most famous botrytis-affected dessert wines from the Sauternes appellation, such as Château D’Yquem

REGIONS OF BORDEAUX

The Left Bank : Has soil that is gravelly which favors Cabernet Sauvignon

Entre-Deux-Mers: Known more for white wines but does produce lighter bodied reds blended from Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot

The Right Bank: More clay based soil, favors Merlot

BURGUNDY

Burgundy or Bourgogne in eastern France is a region where red and white wines are equally important

Probably more terroir-conscious than any other region, Burgundy is divided into the largest number of appellations of any French region

BURGUNDY PART DEUX

The Burgundy region is divided in four main parts

Côte de Nuits From Marsannay-La-Côte down to Nuits Saint-

Georges

Côte de Beaune From north of Beaune to Santenay

Côte Chalonnaise

The Maconnais

BURGUNDY PART TROIX

Two parts of Burgundy are sometimes considered separate regions: Chablis in the north, halfway between Côte d'Or and Paris, where white wines are produced on chalky soil giving a more crisp and steely-style than the rest of Burgundy

Beaujolais in the south, close to the Rhône Valley region

Beaujolais

Situated in central East of France following the river Saone below Burgundy and above Lyon

Primarily produce red wines from the Gamay grape

Some whites and sparkling rosés are also produced

Famous for Beaujolais Nouveau, a popular Vin de Premier which is released annually on the third Thursday of November In France, It is the only wine that can be legally

consumed in the year of its production

How Timely…Being that Beaujolais Nouveau is a

light bodied, carbonic-macerated and therefore fruit-forward wine, it goes

very well with our Thanksgiving feast!

One annual celebration is Chefs-On–Bikes, where chefs ride their motorcycles and bikes through various towns

Even at Las Vegas’ Paris resort, a celebrity guest will light the hotel’s Eiffel Tower a Beaujolais-shade of red at 12:01 a.m. to kick-off a weekend of celebrations there

A Big Celebration! Under French law,

Beaujolais Nouveau, made from Gamay, is not allowed to go on sale until 12:01 a.m. on the third Thursday of November

Many Beaujolais Nouveau events happen at that time around the world

GRAPE VARIETALS OF BURGUNDY

There are two main grape varieties used in Burgundy: Chardonnay for all white wines

Whites are also made from Aligoté Borgogne, but are not exported

Traditional grape used to make the Kir cocktail

Pinot Noir for all reds Gamay is used for reds from

Beaujolais

LANGUEDOC-ROUSSILLON

Languedoc-Roussillon is the largest region in terms of vineyard surface and production Much of France's cheap bulk wines are produced

there

So-called “Wine Lake", Languedoc-Roussillon is also the home of some innovative producers who combine traditional techniques with new approaches Blanquette de Limoux, the world's oldest sparkling

wine International styles using lessons from the New

World

Though many varietals are grown here, it focuses primarily on Syrah and Chardonnay.

TOURAINE AND ANJOU (IN THE LOIRE) The Touraine region produces cold

climate-styled white wines (dry, sweet or sparkling) from Chenin Blanc in Vouvray and red wines from Cabernet Franc in Bourgueil and Chinon

The Anjou region’s wine is similar to Touraine wines with respect to varieties, but the dry Savennières and sweet Coteaux du Layon are often more powerful than their upstream neighbors

THE LOIRE: POUILLY FUMÉ AND SANCERRE

In the eastern part of the Loire Valley, most of the grapes used are Sauvignon Blanc…

Pouilly-Fumé is a delicious, dry white (do not confuse with Burgundy’s Pouilly-Fuissé) that is produced in this area

Pouilly-Fumé has a bewitching perfume, rich aromas and a distinctive flavor

California producers use Fumé Blanc as a more public-friendly name to market Sauvignon Blancs

Sancerre is from the other bank of the Loire river

This white wine is very dry, with a robust aroma, delicately lively and pure

JURA & SAVOIE

A small region in the mountains close to Switzerland with some unique wine styles: Vin Jaune (young wine) Vin de Paille (straw wine)

The region covers six appellations and is related to Burgundy through its extensive use of the Burgundian grapes Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, though other varieties are used

Also shares cool climate with Burgundy

Vin Jaune is allowed to

oxidize then is fortified; similar to

Sherry

.

PROVENCE

In France’s south-east & close to the Mediterranean

It is perhaps the warmest wine region of France and produces mainly rosé and red wines

It covers eight major appellations, led by its flagship appellation: Bandol

Some wines can be compared with those of the Southern Rhône as they share both grapes and, to some degree, style and climate

Provence also has a classification of its most prestigious estates, much like Bordeaux

THE RHÔNE Primarily a red-wine region in south-

eastern France, along the Rhône River Styles and varietal composition of

northern and southern Rhône differ, but both parts compete with Bordeaux as traditional producers of red wines

The soil tends to be rocky which keeps the vines warm at night

Syrah and Grenache are the predominant grape varietals

WHAT IS CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE? Unlike its northern Rhône neighbors, Châteauneuf-du-

Pape permits thirteen different varieties of grape, though the blend is usually predominantly Grenache

Other red grapes include Cinsault, Counoise, Mourvèdre, Muscardin, Syrah, Terret Noir, and Vaccarèse. White grapes include Grenache Blanc, Bourboulenc, Clairette, Picardan, Roussanne and Picpoul

In recent years, the trend has been to include fewer (or even none) of the allowed white varieties and rely heavily (or solely) upon the Grenache, Mourvèdre, and Syrah

One may suspect that this is a response to international wine-market trends and the desire to appeal to a broader commercial audience

CHAMPAGNE Champagne, situated in eastern

France, close to Belgium and Luxembourg, is the coldest of France's major wine regions and home to its major sparkling wine

Champagne wines can be both white and rosé

A small amount of still wine is produced in Champagne (as AOC Coteaux Champenois) of which some can be red wine.

A BIT O’ BUBBLY!!

A Champagne is a sparkling wine but a sparkling wine is

not a Champagne! WHAT DOES THAT MEAN?

WHAT’S IN A NAME?

Other regions of France: Mousseux Crémant

Italy: Frizzante/Spumante/Prosecco

Germany: Sekt Spain: Cava

CHAMPAGNE HISTORY Vines planted by the Romans in 50 A.D. Secondary fermentation discovered by chance Methode Champenoise evolved over 200 years Dom Perignon: Master blender; created blanc

de noir and initiated using English glass bottles

Antoine Müller: Invented remuage (w/crown seal) and dégorgement initiated by Madame Cliquot of the Cliquot Ponsardin winery

Gyropallete: Invented by Codorniu in Spain

WHAT IS RIDDLING (LE REMUAGE)?

TheA-

frame riddling rack to

the right is called a “Pupitr

e”

THE CHAMPAGNE PROCESSStill wine fermentation & the Cuvée…

Then: Liqueur de Tirage (sugar & yeast) capped

to ferment, then aged 3 years minimum en tirage

Remuage: Twisting and turning

Mis sur point: Bottoms up

Dégorgement: Explosion & expulsion

Dosage: The final note of sweetness

CHAMPAGNE TYPES

Brut (driest) - up to 1.5% sugar English Cuvée or Ultra Brut

Extra Dry Sec (dry, but slightly sweet) Demi-Sec Doux (Very sweet, not seen in

U.S.) Crémant

CHAMPAGNE GRAPES

Chardonnay (Burgundy) - lighter style 100% called Blanc de Blanc

Pinot Noir (Burgundy) - adds depth 100% called Blanc de Noir

Pinot Meunier (nowhere else) Red like Pinot Noir, but not as

“classic”

THE PRESTIGE CUVÉE

Best grapes, highest rated vineyards

First pressing of the grapes More time in the bottle than

N.V. Made only in vintage years Smaller quantities are

produced Price dictated by supply &

demand

SERVING SPARKLING WINES

Be careful; never point the bottle at anyone! Keep control at all times!

Remove the foil, then the cage

Hold at a 45º angle, twist the bottle against the cork, and VOILA!

Two pours - avoids foam-over

MORE VOCABULARY YOU NEED TO KNOW Négociant: A merchant who buys grapes, juice or

wine from growers and sells the wines under his own label

Domaine: Estate (Burgundy) Château: Estate (Bordeaux) Climat: Vineyard Mise en Domaine: Estate-bottled Récolte or Millesime: Vintage; Récoltant: Grape

grower Cave: Wine cellar Superièur: Wine with higher (superior) alcohol

content as a result of being made from riper grapes Vieilles Vignes: Old vines

READING A FRENCH WINE LABEL

GERMANY

Germany produces primarily white wines Varietals include:

Riesling Gewürztraminer Müller-Thurgau Rieslange Ruländer – Pinot Gris Spätburgunder – Pinot Noir Weissburgunder – Pinot Blanc

The very best winemakers do not use commercial yeasts, make any alterations to acidity, nor ferment or age their wine in oak

QMP (QUALITI MIT PRADIKAT) CATAGORIES

GERMAN WINE PYRAMID At the top of the pyramid, controls on grapes production, viticultual techniques (chaptalization), and labeling information

Hierarchy is based on ripeness of grapes, with the riper grapes producing the top wines

Germany’s Wine Regions

GERMANY’S WINE REGIONS

Germany has 13 wine regions…

Most notable are the top four: Mosel : The vineyards are planted on the

very steep banks of the Mosel river and its tributaries Mostly Riesling and Müller-Thurgau

Rheingau: Germany's most central wine-growing region and the home of some of the world's oldest wine-growing families

continued…

GERMANY’S WINE REGIONS II Pfalz: Borders France on the southwest Top volume and quality producer of wines

made from: Müller-Thurgau, Kerner, Silvaner & Morio-

Muskat (whites) as well as Portugieser (red)

Rheinhessen: Largest of the winegrowing regions Production is second only to that of the

Pfalz Production primarily Riesling Other grapes - Müller-

Thurgau, Silvaner, Riesling Also new hybrid crossings The Portugieser grape is the most

important red variety Ingelheim is known for its Spätburgunder

(Pinot Noir)

READING A GERMAN WINE LABEL

Wine # 1 Vintage: 2011 Name: Saint M Producer: Dr. Loosen Region: Pfalz, Germany

Wine # 2 Vintage: 2011 Name: Rosé Producer: Bastide de Trians Region: Provence, France

Wine # 3 Vintage: 2009 Name: Côte du Rhône Producer: E. Guigal Region: Rhône, France

Wine # 4 Vintage: 2009 Name: Bordeaux Superière Producer: Château Jean Guillon Region: Bordeaux, France

Now, let’s see what the professionals say and what went into

making these wines!

Chateau Ste. Michelle is proud to offer Saint M, a German Riesling made by acclaimed winemaker

Ernst Loosen, owner of the Dr. Loosen estate, which has a 200-year tradition of producing Riesling in Germany's Mosel region. With his modern world

view and his traditional approach to winemaking, Ernst strives to produce wines that unmistakably

express the character of Riesling and of the vineyards where they are grown. Saint M

represents a great value in classic Riesling from the Pfalz region.

Saint M Riesling is clean and crisp, with a viscous mouth-coating texture balanced by a firm, mineral edge. This Riesling typifies the classic fruity, but

stony, character of the Pfalz. I am extremely happy with the amazing purity of the fruit.

Alcohol by volume:11.0%

2011 Saint M, Riesling, Pfalz, Germany

From deep in the heart of Provence (Brignoles, to be more precise) comes this

delicious rosé from the Bastide de Trians. Its light pink hue evokes freshness, vivacity and

all that screams summer has officially arrived! On the palate a wide range of fruit flavors prevail, including white peach and

wild strawberry. The wine is rich and expressive on the mid-palate, however it also

maintains a fine and elegant finish. Enjoy this Provençal pink with a wide selection of

Mediterranean fare, including grilled fish and meats. Made with organically grown grapes. (50% Grenache 30% Cinsault, 20% Syrah)

13% abv.

2011 Bastide de Trians, Rosé, Provence France

There are 3.5 million bottles of the 2009 Cotes du Rhone red, which represents an amazing value. A blend of 50% Syrah, 40% Grenache and 10% Mourvedre, it comes primarily from

the Plan de Dieu (Plain of God), which is situated northeast of Chateauneuf du Pape. This tank-aged, deep ruby/purple-

colored, concentrated, fleshy, medium to full-bodied, supple offering reveals plenty of pepper, kirsch and black currant fruit intermixed with a notion of flowers. It is meant to be consumed during its first 2-3 years of life although I have

tasted 10-year-old bottles that are still good.

Exceptionally structured, rich, and complex. Unlike most producers in the appellation, Guigal ages his Côtes Du Rhône

Rouge for a full two years before release. This expensive process results in a wine of unusual aromatic complexity, with a substantial and generous palate. Consistent from vintage to

vintage, and deceptively age-worthy in the riper years, Guigal's Côtes Du Rhône Rouge is one of the world's greatest

wine values.

2009 E. Guigal, Côte du Rhône, France

2009 Chateau Jean Guillon,Bordeaux Superière, Bordeaux,

France

A ripe, plump and smooth style; deeply colored, superb length and balance; red meat,

duck and medium hard cheeses.