daniele beringheli

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BIOTEX

Public Workshopon Textile Biotechnology

FILATI MACLODIO S.p.A.

Mr. Daniele Beringheli, R&D Senior Consultant

Brussels, November 20th, 2008

Founded in 1976 and immediately famous in thering – cotton spinning field for its flexibility andwide choice of products, Fi lati Maclodio S.p.A.has diversified its production along the years toa continual evolution and new projects. Thetraditional fashion sector occupies nowadays70% of the company turnover, with a consistent30%, under continual evolution, devoted totechnical yarns and to the products for specialuses.A dynamic R&D centre, a competent technicalstaff and production lines specifically projectedfor small lots and high profiled –experimentations are the key for importantpartnerships with Customers, fibers producers,R&D centres and universities labs for the studyand development of new projects.

•3 facilities•400 overall employees•60.000 overall spools•4 mil Kg production 2008

•Fashion Yarns•Technical and Special Yarns•Organic certified yarns•RIFIM (Research andInnovation)

18,420

22,320

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Anno di r ifer imento 2002 - 2008 (proie zione)

Fatturato Filati Maclodio

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•Fashion yarns (internal style researchcentre)

• Technical yarns division

•Organic yarns division

•RIFIM –R&D by Filati Maclodio

Pure and Applied research

Pure research and its application to the textile reality

Experimentation, prototype – test, industrial production

Final project completement and its marketing



Cooperation in the textile chain

Polymerization

UniversityLaboratories and research centres

Weaving Dyeing FinishingGarment

DyeingSpinningExtrusion

BIOPOLYMERS BAST FIBERS

Ingeo™

Lenpur™

Milkofil®

Piume

Nettle

Broom

Work in progress



Biopolymers - PLA (Ingeo™

)

•Ingeo™ =biopolymersuitable for a series of performing applications

•From totally renewable source (plants) ⇒ no oilorigin (main source: corn – maize)

•Raw material easy to grow up, widely availablein many areas of the earth

•Totally recyclable

•Compostable

In cooperation with

Biopolymers– Lenpur™

•From natural source (trees)

•Environmental – friendly policy

⇒ no trees are cut, just the 2 years – old branches are cut away;

the process is not aggressive (a content of 99.75% of cellulose is

found after ashes examination)

•American patent to protect it

•Characterization of the fiber and its use in blend with

other fibers

•moisture regain: Lenpur: 13.3%

•assorbency: excellent

•very soft

•cashmere touch

•bright



Biopolymers - Milkofil

•Old Italian discovery (1935) taken back to daily use because of the

Need of renewable and alternative sources

•From renewable source (milk, extra quantity not taken from the food

chain)

•Long experimentations for the new fashion needs

•18 amino – acids contained in casein grant a moisturizing effect

on the skin

•Tolerated by sensitive skins (Oeko Test Class 1)

Biopolymers - Feathers

•From waste source (fowl industry), normally of very low or no commercial value;

its waste disposal is normally a problem and must obey strict laws.

- A polymer has been obtained from this material; it is a precious one, as it is nearly 100% made of keratin; possible textile applications are being evaluated.

-Advantages:

- Enviromentally friendly – from waste material- From renewable source- Reduced energy production costs (not derived from oil)- Completely bio – degradating in normal conditions

Goal:

- to get a noble spinning fiber from a “poor” polymer from waste material

- to industralize a new fiber which would be resistantresilienthygroscopicflame retardantvery light



The project, started in 2001 by the research institute Artes, issupported by the Region of Calabria, which we thank for the precious help, and is, therefore, a concrete example of how important the Institutions seal is for the research and its application.

Artes has developed a productive process which goes from cultivation and mechanicalharvesting of the Spanish Broom [SpartiumJunceum] to enzymatic retting, mechanical de- fibering and spinning on cotton and wool industrial plants, with encouraging results.

Filati Maclodio is the first spinning industry who understood the value of the action,realizing some samples of exclusive yarns and intensively co - operating to thedevelopment and promotion of the entire project.

In particular, the action concerned the following key aspects:

•recovery & valorisation of natural-cultural-productive heritageof the territory•‘characterisation’ of the fibreand first technical spinning tests•R&D inenzymatic biotechnologies[focused on autonomous production of customisedenzymes]•promotion of the project to key actors [successful example of cooperation amongstuniversities, research institutes, industry and institutions].

Bast fibers - Broom

Bast fibers - Broom

R&D is now bringing to an innovation cluster start-up [EU communication 2006/c323/01] including a world-class centre for research & commercialization of enzyme-based technologies for application into the textile industry andnew businesses based onnatural fibres processing.

Five drivers define the action:1. To qualify the rural areas making them attractive

2. To build, qualify and enlarge a network of research laboratories3. To select a team of young researchers, entrepreneurs and managers and duly trainthem4. To attract and contract senior experts,5. To activate and manage a community regeneration strategy.

The present phase of innovation cluster start-up is the involvement of those industries,universities and research centres which have been coperating since 2001 [Artes, FilatiMaclodio, Rubinelli , University of Oulu, Gent, Arad, Leicester, Next Technology Tecnotessile, LT, etc.], connecting them with other regional andinternational actors.

The first steps are the submission of a network proposal to the COST [Italy, UK,Romania, Slovenia and Poland] and the detailed design of the innovation cluster[Natural fibres Industry, Biotech Lab, Textile design Lab, Natural dyeing Lab, SpinningLab, Vocational and long-life training School].



Bast fibers - Nettle

•Common work onto the transformation process

(mechanical and enzymatic)

•Research on the fiber to use it inside the cotton spinningindustry, both pure and in blend with other fibres

•Optimization of the fiber cultivation

•Industrialization of the product

•Keeping the original fiber characteristics:

- Hollow fiber

- Light- Thermal regulating and insulating

In cooperation with

Conclusions

1. Cooperation which involves all sectors:

- University- Research Centres for Chemistry & Biology- Mechanic - textile- Agriculture

- Textile transformation

2. Importance of an open and co –operating partnership

3. Importance of a full involvment and cooperation by Universities and Research Centres.



Filati Maclodio S.p.A.

www.filatimaclodio.it

Daniele Beringheli

[email protected]

[email protected]

Thank you for Your attention

daniele beringheli

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