€d udrumipindiaservices.gov.in/gi_doc/169/169 - gi - enclosing...consists of weak babul lir...
TRANSCRIPT
N0-70t
To,Assistant RegistrarGergraphical Indjcation ReqistrationPettion OfficeGunidy Industrial EstateGST Road, Chennai
HEAD OFF : 8OMP,qY LIFE BIOG., 5TH FL00R,45, VEER MRllllAN ROAD, MUMBAI - 400 Ofi A UU7157 I 4186 FAX : (022)283 5881 Email [email protected]
€DUdrum
SAI{T ROHIDN LEATHER II'IDUSTRIE$ & CHARII|AKAR CORPOMTIOI'|LTD.
(A GOVT. OF MAHAMSHTRA UNDERI]
Sub : Regarding application for the
NG)
Date:2913t2010
rma in part A of the
aKar Developmentpany Act 1956 As
of this companyare manufacturing
to the Charmakarn in the region of
legal protection to aDKAR Corporation
ce statement
btr,
ueographtcal indtcation act 1999.
_ Sant Rohidas Leather Industries & (Corporation Ltd., is registered company unCei tneper the memorandum of this Corporation, the main ois, overall development of Charmakar Communities.the Leather goods and providing financiat essisirUornunrttes. To protect the traditronal rights of theKolhapur, Solapur. Sangli and Satara anj, proviOeo- tfreKornapur product. We are applying joinfly with the
& Ci:r.;;..-, . 45, V. 1
(Leather Industry Development Corpofttion oi Xarnatat a DKAR).
We are enclosing the main application historicalmap, evidence with photograph.
rs Sincerely
I ': '--i ir:lr.:rric:;. ..- it Col-.r! :
i ;,i:.- li , :'.1. : rl
CH I {', r,:41.
ADplication for tbe registration of a Geograplit:t I-t9Y::T^r'r"r!-"-- Regisier for goods falling in-different classes'
(Section 11(3)' RuIe 23(5)
+l*Y::l,,::::"^'J"-,Tl;"i',"Hlil1T,i13lrui:H'ff i
Part A of the
Register ofthe
Sao--t Rohidas Leather Ind
DeveloPment CorPorationNarne of the APPlicant
BombayTtE Btdg'. 5u floor, 4
Mumbai-4OO 001.
Ph. 22047 | 57 /220441 86 Fax :
stries DeveloPment
Corporation of
i Kalnataka LeatherCorporatio n Ltd , (LID
2. Leather Industries
Maharashtra (LIDCO
Li-st of Association ofOrganization/AuthoritY
using babulbark and
uppers and heel are
tanned leather'
tanned leather around
shape memory on
insole and uPPer and
taken from bag tanned
lhapuri chaPPals made
Nippani, where
fixed over uPPer
or goat skin tanned bY
Ethnic Product
Bag tanned leather,
myrobalan fruits.
All parts of chaPPal -from bag tanned
Degee of tannage of45%.
Chappal to exhibit
wetting/soaking in
Stitching of outer so
heel with leather
leather for most ofthein almost all Places,pasting is Presently fo
Decorative woven
bands are from Head
tanners in the sam-KotnaPuri Footwear)'in Kamataka - Dharwad,
covering a total area of
, Sangli, KolhaPur
irea of about 41,615
area that will have to be
Maharashtra is about
f-Onapuri ChaPPal
GeograPhical Area : Dlstrl{
Bels-aum, Bagalkot and Bij
about 34,812 Sq.Kms'
Districts in Maharashtra -and Satara - covering a
Sq.Kms.Thus, the total geograPhical
covered both in KamatatG
76,427.1 Sq.I{ms.
ft-ameof theGeograPhicallndication (and Particulars)
Proof of orisin The origin of KolhaPuri chaPl
12th Century rule of King BijjaPrime Minister Viswaguru B
who wanted to create a cast€
stigma associated with Chat
Vishwa Guru Basavanna, (Kannada) by Jagadguru MKalyana Mission, Bangalc
Basaveswara sought an aPPoi
chamar by name HaralalYa.and his family involved inBasaveswara was greatlY irrHaralayya's house. As a token
for Basaveswara , HaralaYYausing vegetable tanned skin al
from his thigh and as well a
thighs and presented to basar
The Viswaguru Shri Basaves
chappal, but kept it on his he
Footwear, as it was PartlY maHaralayyas. He retumed theWhile taking back the footwezthe Aasthan, by name MadlHaralayya and wore the footeit, he developed paralysis a
Hearing the incidence,Basaveshwara advised Madhrof Harala'yya and also bathe i
make the footwear. He re1
Lavanyavathi, daughter ofHaralayya's house and sough
back home with a pot ofmanufacture and gave it to herthat processing liquid, he fr
ailment. Then he realized theHaralayya and as a gesture ofdaughter in mariage to Shee
Thus, Basaveswara achievedcasteless society and in tunlingayat faith and worshipping
al can be traced back toof Bidar district and hisrsavanna (Basaveswara)
ess society and removerar community. (Ref :
n Vemacular languagerte Mahadevi, Vishwar€, 1980). As such
ltment for lunch with aTraditionally Harala;yabotwear manufacturing.rressed by his visit toof appreciation and lovenade a pair of footweard a part of his own skin; his wife Kalyanamm'seswara (Photograph 1).
rwara did not wear therd, saying it is a Divinee from their own skin offootwear to Haralayya.
r, a Brahmin Assistant inuvarash grabbed it fromear. As soon as he wornrd became bed ridden.the Jagadguru Shrivarsh to seek the pardon
r the liquids he used torsed to do so, ThenMadhuvarsh went to: his pardon and cameiquid used in footwearlather. After bathing withlly recovered from hisgreatness and divinity ofgratitude, he offered hisLavanth, Harlayya's son.
ris objective of creatingthe chamar tumed to
tingu.
Further, the chamars consic
period as a glorious chaPter i
their lives to lingaYat faithworship. it is with that sPirit,
made excellent varieties ofcreative work in footwear Prccentury was the beginning c
Chamars using bag tanned letKolhapuri. However, the nar
prefixed to it was onlY frorCentury. (See Picture).
There is also some recorded intanning, probably bag tanningShahu (1874-1922) was resP
units from Bindu Chowkoutskirts of the town. About 2!
vogue during this period (18!of Kolhapur, By J.H.Pathan, funpublished article).
In the undivided Bombay Stal
the Kolhapuri chappals were P
leathers by chamars of Maha
the select districts relerred urthis application. The name ofexistence as chappals made
enabled others in other distrkState to make similar type of (
leather. Hence, the name Kobeing used by all the chamarsfrom where they are produce(
the reorganization of States, z
of the districts have formed p
tanners and chamars continmethods ofproduction in their
In another report, it was n(Saudagar) in the late 1920s
design of chappal, which wasflaps (which gave it the name
with an ear). It also had a dec
to Bombay and was noticed b1
footwear trader. They ordered
of Kanwalis and sold them irdemand for Kanwalis had pror
teach the skills to others.fromCalcutta where thesepopular. It was reported thi
ered that 12* centuryr their lives to dedicate
and consider work as
the chamar communitybotwear and used theirJuction. Hence, the 12s
I footwear made by the
lher and it looked likere Kolhapauri that was
. the beginning of 20'n
brmation on the status ofin Kolhapur. Chatrapati:nsible to shift tanningo Yallomareal, in thetanning centrtes were in
5) (Ref.Leather Industry.R.Mane Co[[ege, Kagal,
: (before 1947), most of:oduced from bag tanned:ashtra and Karnataka inder Geographical area inKolhapuri has come intoLnd traded in Kolhapur,ts of undivided Bombayhappals from bag tannedhapuri was used and isirrespective of the placein Bombay State. After
fter Independence, somert of Kamataka and theLe to follow the same
espective places.
entioned that a familyleveloped an indigenoushinner and had two sides
"Kanwali" or a chappalrrative upper. It was sentJ.J. and Sons, prominent20 pairs of new designsBombay. The increased
rpted Saudagar family tofhe JJ sons got orderbotwear became moret the name "Kolhapuri
chappals" was given to thel
competitors the fact that the (
Athani. Later, of course, t
Kolhapur also started manufacl
Hence, the kolhapuri chaPPal ir
exclusively from bag tanned ler
(Ref : Footwear industries in AIndustrial Development Bank c
Report prepared by Mahz
Technical Consultancy Organil
The consolidated map showiKarnataka and Maharashtra I
process and Kolhapuri Chappaare found is enclosed at the en
r to conceal from thehappals originated fiomther centres includingrring these footwear.
an ethnic product, made
Iher.
haniflndiarashtra Industrial and
ation Ltd., 1988.)
rg all the 8 districts intates where bag taningmanufacturing activities
t.
Method of Production The ethnic Kolhapuri chap
exsclusively made from bag I
Hence, for Kolhapuri chappal,pre-requisite.The methods of production thstages - (1) manufacture of bi
manufacture of Kolhapuri chap
l. Production of bag lanne2 to ll) : The traditioadopted by Artisans inwhere bag tanned (vegetaethnically called Kolhapu
(D(4.,
is described below :
Raw materials :
Buffalo hides - Green/w25-30 kg. each. Cow hidtcow are also used.
Lime (staked)
Vegetable tanning matelArabica) and myrobalan nr
Miscelleneous : Sisal fibrand hand tools for unhairirscrubbing.Soaking : The raw hides, :
wash the hides thoroughllto clean the surfaces frommaterial is of wet salted tday in water, handling c
soaking is completed, inrehydration, take out, drair
(b)(cl
(d)
(2)
ral is completely and
lnned vegetable leather.
bag tanned leather is the
:refore shall include twog tanned leather and (2)pal.
I leather (Photographsral/orthodox process as
the Geogaphical areas
rle) leather and chappals,i chappals are produced
salted/ weighing aboutcalf skins of buff and
ials : Babulbark (Acaciats (Terminalia Chebula).e for stitching into bagsg, fleshing, beaming and
I they are of green hides,in 2-3 changes of waterlirt and blood. Ifthe raw,pe, soak the hides for Ince or twice. After thelicated by softness andthe water.
(3). Liming : Put the hides
rectangular 4'x6'x5' Pit an
once a day and keeP the h
days. On the 7' daY,
strengthened by adding ab,
per hide. The hides are Pabout 10 daYs, each daY
once.Now the hides become 1
stock is taken out, unhai:
and then fleshed with a fle
water, scudded to remove l
surface. Wash thoroughlYNow cut the hides into si
spinal line.
n old lime liquor, in a
I handle it by hauling up
.de in the same pit for 6
he old lime liquor is,ut 10 lbs. of slaked limeLt in this lime liquor forrandling and hauling up
lump and swollen. Theed with unhairing knife;hing knife, washed withhort hair and to clean thein 2-3 changes of water.les by cutting along the
(4) Deliming : The sides ar
well to remove lime fronovernight in water, the sidr
its thickness. The stock istanning.
r put in water, trampledthe sides. After leaving
s get delimed upto 2/3 ofnow ready for vegetable
(s) Vegetable tanning : Itcolouring and suspensic
consists of weak babul lir
branches crushed myrobalThe sides are put in this I
out, wrung and put in s<
another two days. The sk
both grain and flesh side
still untanned.
After this, the sides are tedrained by keeping on bar
into a bag, using strong si
on the neck portion. Themixture of babul bark anc
(10 : 7) upto l/3'd of its hover wooden logs, inmeasuring about 7' x 5' xare poured into the bag thneck portion. Tanning tak
of tan liquor by osmoticspacs in the skin. The liquput back into the bag ez
quantity is collected. Thcondition for two days , aI2/3'd of its height. The bag
opened on the butt porti(neck portion is closed.direction, the bag is susl
involves two stages -r. The colouring bathuor, made from bark ofm and soaking in water.quor for two days. Takeoond colouring bath forns now get coloured on
leaving central portion
ken out, wrung, water isrboo poles, then stitchedal fibre, leaving openingbag is filled up with acrushed myrobalan nuts:ight and then suspended
o a pit (rectangular)2' . Water and tan liquor"ough the opening in the:s placed by penetrationrressure into the interiorrr collected into the pit is:h time when sufficient: bags are kept in thiser which a knot is tied atis taken out, the mouth isn and the mouth on thelhus, reversing the bagended over the pit. Tan
liquor is poured into the 1
for two days.
By this time , the middle Pc
tanned. At this stage, the kand myrob are allowed tothe balance l/3 portion ofkept in this position for hthe entire side gets tanned
tanned in 3 steps. Aftertaken out, cut open to makon a bamboo pole, beame
with water thoroughlY. Tlsun on the flesh side for o
are still damp, they are pul
for 1 or 2 days. Then takermake them ready for sellin
The whole production frcabout 30-32 days. The yielraw weight.
at frequent intervals
lion ofthe bag also gets
rot is removed, the barklip into the butt portion,the bag and the bag isro days, by which time,Thus, the entire side is
this process, the bag is
: the side flat and placed
l, scrubbed and washed
e sides are dried in there day. When the sides
back into the tanning pitout and dried in order to
m raw to tanning takesI varies from 40-45Yo on
Other variations in methods a
The above method is the mr
followed by the tanners, produ<
chappals. However, some bagputting the soaked hides in freold lime liquor, keeping a total
Bag tanning was also practict(Jalandhar), West Bengal (Kolin the past. However, the prr
certain natural materials suchlimed fleshings, and Akandadeliming and bating and use of
Consumptionof processing t
weight 30 kg)
1. Lime2. Babul bark (crushed)3. Myrob nuts (crushed)
nd production
st widely used process
ing leather for Kolhapuritanners are straightaway;h lime liquor, instead ofiming period of l5 days.
d extensively in Punjabratta) and U.P. (Kanpur)cess differed in use ofrs Sajji Matti in liming,leaves fermentation forrabul bark alone.
raterials(w/s hide-Ave.
3-4 Kg. ihide8-10 Kg./side7-8 Kg./side
1.
Manufacture of Kolha;Kolhapuri Footwear -Photographs 12-27) :
Raw material : Bagleather. Bag tanned cov
cow calfare also used.
Pattern making : Thelgeneration to generatiolmakes his own patterl
measurements and then
inch in lenglh for each
cut in rubber sheets.
Grading : The pafterns
to I I for gents and gradr
Making Upper and bo
tanned vegetable buff ltwell as for uppers. Atleather soles are also mcalf leathers (bag tanmaking uppers.
The bag tanned leatherCut into outer sole at
sheets. The cut soles ar
While in damp corhammered heavily andleather even, flat and prpolished by rubbing witl
In the case of punch
desigls are punched wiside ofthe insole as wel
In case no punches a
applied in between bokeep them together teml
Meanwhile, toe ringprepared with leather 'l
and fixed over it a
leather piece.
uri Chappal (Ethnic.llustrated with
tanned vegetable buff/bag tanned buff calf or
e are handed over fiom. At times, the producerby taking actual foot
Srading by increasing 1/3
size. These pattems are
re available for grades 6s 5-9 for ladies.
:tom stock : Mostly bagather is used for soles as
times, bag tanned cowLde use of. Buff calf/cowred) are also used for
is ri/etted to ease cutting.Ld insole, using patteme exposed to sun dryinglition, the leather isrepeatedly to make the:ssed. The soles are thena porcelain cup/rod.
:d designs, the desiredh punchers on the grainas on upper straps.
e made, earthern soil istom sole and insole toorarily.
and instep band are
*en from belly portionolaited/woven/decorative
Also a toe loop/strapattached passing forwarpoint adjacent to toe rinlto anchor forepart of the
be two such toes looP
Now, the InsteP band irsole and insole and the
the toe. The heel Piecechappal is now stitchedfrom tail portion of theThe sole stitching is allin the middle of the sole
In the case of KaPshr
rubbed with a mixture o
oil to get shining and gl
types of Kapshe, 3 s
together and stitched. S
shiny and last longer (S
(woven in leather) isI from Instep band to aon the sole between toe
foot. At times, there can(see photograph 27).
enclosed between outertoe loop into a slot near
is also fixed. The wholevith a leather rope, taken;ame bag tanned leather.around the sole and also
(Kapsi), the insole is
I coconut and ground nutrssiness. In some special
rle pieces are attachedrch chappals are soft and:e photograph 26).
Variations :
(i) In Nippani aret
process is follo'method practicethe stuck on prtheir sequence ir
places, but onlysoles and upperbands are alsolever, ear pi,
bgtween outer alIn some types, tinstep band.In all other pkleather thread isAt times, the ulstraps and theirtanned goat/she(vegetable tanne
(ii)
(iiD
('9
, now-a-days, stuck onred, instead of stitchingI for several decades. Inrcess, all operations and
the same as in all otherlatex is used to paste thebands to the sole. Upper'iveted in the side of a
ce (Leather) inserted
d insoles.rere can be toe band and
oes, only stitching withbllowed.per band and the wovenlining can be vegetablep skins or head leather[) (Photograph 20).
Uniqueness :
o Household productioltraditional practices and
r Completely and exclttanned vegetable leathel
o Eco-friendlyprocessingo Resistance to abrasion a
o Have shape memory evln water.
with centuries oldfully hand made.
sively made with bag
and production.
rd water absorption.:n when wet back/soaked
farmers - a fashion
action in wear foro Suitable for rugged use
foowvear with soft and
urbanites and elite.
o Low degree oftannage of
logy. Mumbai (under
otr, Govt. of
Leather TechnologYLeather Industries
of Kamataka
Inspection BodY :
. CLN.e Institute of Leather T
Dept. of Technical
Maharashtra).e Karnataka Institute of
(KILT), Bangalore (
product made bY
of Marathi sPeaking
for generations withhanded over from
in the GeograPhical
lgaum and some other
rataka and Maharashtra
around Rs.100
and leather, amounting
involving about I lakh
chappals).
Kolhapuri ChaPPal is
misused bY calling anY
tanned leather in
different from
ld on the same name in. It is distinct as it
bag tanned vegetable
of the geograPhical
It is not the shaPe of:e of leather used in the
chappal that determines
chappal. The chaPPals
rs growth, when theY
uniqu.n"r. and sPecialitY
chappals are _made in
rrlv in the toe band ano
Others :
1. The onlY authentic and
artisans of ethnic origiartisans in households
Region of KolhaPur,
districts in Parts of lStates.
2. Annual Production is
to about 10 million Pai
households (Tanning
3. The ethnic name ofextensivelY abused and
footwear made withthe shaPe of ethnic Ko
4. KolhaPuri ChaPPal is
other tYPes of chaPPals
different markets in the
is made entirelY
regions mentioned ab
fo-ot'*.u., but it is the
the ethnicity of Koare free from moul
are kept dry. Hence,
of this product.
5. The ethnic KolhaP
5. The ethnic KolhaPuriseveral designs, Particulinstep bands of the uPPt
several names as KaPsiand all of them are term(
The main markets are
Athni and other majorKolhapuri chapPals are
actual export ofethnic Pl
6. Sale price of ethnidepending on their stYlr
Rs.250 to Rs.2,000 per 1
sell only against mail (type of chappals. The e'
about 25% higher price t
7. Market : Prevailing Ptregion under consideratirange and are as below :
(i) Raw buff hides 9Green/of about 30 Kg. weight.
(ii) Selling price of bag 1
135/Kg.
(iii)Yield in bag tanning - 4
(iv)Purchase price of bag ta
by chamars - Rs.135-15
(v) Selling price of Ethtdepending on design, ra
Rs.l20-150/Pair, Rs.2000lPair for ordinarpunching design, popugeneral use chappal, t
pieces of sole for rugge
very special Kapsi withwith woven patterns an
respectively.
(vi)The price of raw goat sk
and the pit tannedRs.200/piece.
chappals are made inLrly in the toe band and
rs. These are known byKanwalis, Benta etc.
d as Kolhapuri chappals.
in Kolhapur, Nippani,cities in India. Part ofalso exported but the
oduct is not clear.
, Kolhapuri chappals,and design range fiom
air. Some manufacturersrders, particularly Kapsihnic product is priced at
ver non-ethnic products.
ces (April 2009) in thern are almost in the same
V.S.) - Rs.300-500/piece
rnned leather - Rs.125-
)-50% (6-7 Kg/side).
rned leather from dealers)/Kg.
ic Kolhapuri Chappal,rges from Rs.80-85/Pair,i50-400/Pair, Rs.750-
' chappals with onoyar variety of Kapsi forpecial chappals with 3
1 use in Kapsi style andheavily decorated upperI finished for glossiness,
n is around Rs.160/piece
3oat skin costs about
10
Gii Raw head skin of co'Rs.l0/piece and thatRs.16/piece. The Pitaround Rs.62lKg.
(viii) The cost oftanning r
Lime : Rs.l0/Kg.Babul bark (crushed'
Myrobalan fruits (nu
Sisal fibre - Rs.3-4llWater - 200 liters/dtunit
(ix) Waste liquors are mi
required thrown out.
Hair and fleshings a:
covering with soil at
compost.Waste bark is used a
traders to sell it for r
The units are not registered Ioperate within their own resi,
process is eco-friendlY and nothe Environmental Board hal
Pollution Control regulations. (
registered and operate fromtanning and chappal making ar
and artisans.
The socio-economic status is l
the bag tanners and chappal prtwith undergraduate qualifi catio
The productivity is 5 hides prc
unit of family consisting of 3 m
Productivity :
1 Kg. of bag tanned leather 1
chappals depending on the des
expected to be 20 pairs per dayfootwear and the daily producpairs for woven and Kapsi typerson in a day.
z/calfcosts around)f buffalo at
anned head leather costs
raterials and utilities :
: Rs.12,Kg.;s) (Crushed) Rs.12lKg.iag (15 pieces of fibre)y for processing in I
rimal and when not
: dumped into pitsd converted into
; a fuel or taken byLce courts.
y Golt. agencies. They.ential premises. As theoxic chemicals are used,
exempted them underhappal units also are nottheir houses. As such,: confined to households
lirly protected. Some ofducers are well educatedLs like B.A. degree.
;essing per week by one
rle and I female artisans.
ives 1.5 to 2.5 pairs ofigns. The productivity isin case of pasted type ofivity varies from 3 to 6
le of footwear for each
1l
t)l
in 3rfi'ays - Individualpiece work and also
and run by one
basis, each labourer
is estimated at about4 persons and in case
is around Rs.15.000
workshop, hiring
around Rs.250-300 Per
eamings of bag tanners
000 per month per familY
l(at atalr Lcrthet lndustries 0evel
tlo. 176,Oblong Block 2nc F mr unrt! grrrldlng, J. C.
Sugalore - 560 002. Ptune : 222i81 26 tu : 08fr.2222
TRAM)
Sant Eohldas t la:lue|iec I er' a,m lkslDe:telopm Co;3tati3n l.tBombay e BlC.1, St,i :'
45, V Na man Road.
)v - 4AJ 001 .B
Photograph I : Harlayya presenting a pair offootwear (looks [ike Kolhapuri) to
Shri Basaveshwar. '
l3
Photograph 2 : Wet Salted BuffHide'
PhotograPh 3 : Removing ofFlesh from
Photograph No.4 : Colouring the Sides.
Photograph No.5 : Bundles of sisal fibers for usage m
lf
of taming bag.
,-,:-9
- -i9
Photogr4h No.6 : Tarnirfrg Bag Stitching with Sisal
Photograph $o.7 : Bag Tanning unit.
lo
Photogaph No.8 : Observing tannng
3'--
Photograph No.9 : Beaming Log.
;v\
Photogaph No.10 : Final Stages ofVeg. Tanning'
'r--{
Photograph No.l 1 : Tarned Leather in dried
l8
Photograpp No.12 : Pattems.
Photogrehl'{o.13 : Sole Cutting'
l9
Photograph No. 14 : Hammering the Sole.
Photograph No.15 : Prmctring Sole &
PhotographNO.16 : Potshing ofSole
Photograph No.1? : iUnstitched and Stitched
,1
PhotographNo.l8 : Stitched Soles'
Photograph No.l9 : Cutting the Leather Tlread from
Photogaph No.20 : Vegetable Tanned Head
Photograph No.21 : Woman Preparing Veni for
ZJ
Photogrqh No.22 : Veni Mderials for Upper
Photogaph No.23 : The couple sppcialised skills inKolhapuri Footwear , Kapsi'
Kapsi Variety of
iJr0's
Photogaph No.Z : Popular Variety ofllard Sole Kapsi
Photograph No.25 : Bottom Sole of lfupsi Vanety
Photograph No.26 : Fine quality of Kapsi Vanety
of Soles).
oThe ma*ed border withpink colour showsDistricts having bagtanning processingand Kolhapuri foolwearproducing artisans,locations
27