Croatia

Peter Dragicevich, Anthony Ham, Jessica Lee

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NorthernDalmatia

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p169

Split &Central Dalmatia

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Dubrovnik &Southern Dalmatia

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Inland Croatia

KvarnerIstria

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©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Welcome to Croatia . . . . . 4Croatia Map . . . . . . . . . . . . .6Croatia’s Top 17 . . . . . . . . . .8Need to Know . . . . . . . . . .16What’s New . . . . . . . . . . . .18If You Like . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .19Month by Month . . . . . . . 22Itineraries . . . . . . . . . . . . 26Outdoor Activities . . . . . 36Croatia’s Islands . . . . . . . 44Travel with Children . . . . 52Eat & Drink Like a Local . . . . . . . . . . . 55

Regions at a Glance . . . . 60

ZAGREB . . . . . . . . . . . 64Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 65Tours . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79Festivals & Events . . . . . . . 81Sleeping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 83Eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85Drinking & Nightlife . . . . . . 87Entertainment . . . . . . . . . . . 92Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 93

INLAND CROATIA . . . 98Around Zagreb . . . . . . . . 99Samobor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 99Mt Medvednica . . . . . . . . . 102Zagorje . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 103Klanjec . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 104Krapinske Toplice . . . . . . . 104Krapina . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 105Varaždin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 107Međimurje . . . . . . . . . . . . 111Slavonia . . . . . . . . . . . . . .112Ðakovo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 113Osijek . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 114Baranja . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 119Vukovar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 121Ilok . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 123

ISTRIA . . . . . . . . . . . 125Istria’s West Coast . . . . 127Pula . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 127Brijuni Islands . . . . . . . . . . 134Vodnjan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 135Bale . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 136Rovinj . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 137Poreč . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 143Umag . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 148Central & Eastern Istria . . . . . . . . 150Momjan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 150Grožnjan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 151Motovun . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 152

Buzet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 153Roč . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 156Hum . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 156Pazin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 157Svetvinčenat . . . . . . . . . . . 159Labin & Rabac . . . . . . . . . 160

KVARNER . . . . . . . . . 169Rijeka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 171Around Rijeka . . . . . . . . 176Risnjak National Park . . . 176Volosko . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 177Opatija . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 178Učka Nature Park . . . . . . . 180Lošinj & Cres Islands . . .181Beli . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 182Cres Town . . . . . . . . . . . . . 183Valun . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 185Lubenice . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 186Osor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 186Nerezine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 187Mali Lošinj . . . . . . . . . . . . . 187Veli Lošinj . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 190Krk Island . . . . . . . . . . . 192Malinska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 192Krk Town . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 193Punat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 195Vrbnik . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 195Baška . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 196East Kvarner Coast . . . 198Crikvenica . . . . . . . . . . . . . 198Senj . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 199Rab Island . . . . . . . . . . . 200Rab Town . . . . . . . . . . . . . .200Lopar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .205

NORTHERN DALMATIA . . . . . . . . 206Lika . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 208Plitvice Lakes & Around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .208

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Contents

Gospić . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 210Paklenica National Park . . . . . . . . . . 211Pag Island . . . . . . . . . . . 213Pag Town . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 216Zrće Beach . . . . . . . . . . . . 217Novalja . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 218Nin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 219Zadar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 220Dugi Otok . . . . . . . . . . . . 227Veli Rat & Punta Bjanca . . . . . . . . . . . 227Božava . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 228Sali . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 228Telašćica Bay . . . . . . . . . . 229Šibenik-Knin Region . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 229Tisno & Murter Island . . . 229Krka National Park . . . . . .230Šibenik . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 232Primošten . . . . . . . . . . . . . 236Rogoznica . . . . . . . . . . . . . 236

SPLIT & CENTRAL DALMATIA . . . . . . . . 237Split . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 240Around Split . . . . . . . . . 258Kaštela . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 258

Trogir . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 259Šolta Island . . . . . . . . . . . .264Stobreč & Podstrana . . . . 265Omiš . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 265Makarska Riviera . . . . . 266Brela . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 266Makarska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 267Biokovo Nature Park . . . . 269Brač Island . . . . . . . . . . 269Supetar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 271Bol . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 273Hvar Island . . . . . . . . . . 275Hvar Town . . . . . . . . . . . . . 276Pakleni Islands . . . . . . . . . 282Stari Grad . . . . . . . . . . . . . 283Jelsa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .284Vis Island . . . . . . . . . . . . 285Vis Town . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .286Komiža . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 288

DUBROVNIK & SOUTHERN DALMATIA . . . . . . . .289Dubrovnik . . . . . . . . . . . 291Around Dubrovnik . . . . 314Cavtat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 314Konavle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 317Elafiti Islands . . . . . . . . . . 317Mljet Island . . . . . . . . . . 318Mljet National Park . . . . .320Okuklje . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .320Saplunara . . . . . . . . . . . . . 321Pelješac Peninsula . . . . 321Ston & Mali Ston . . . . . . . 321Orebić . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 323Korčula Island . . . . . . . . 324Korčula Town . . . . . . . . . . . 325Lumbarda . . . . . . . . . . . . . 329Vela Luka . . . . . . . . . . . . . .330Lastovo Island . . . . . . . . 330

Croatia Today . . . . . . . . 332

History . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 334

The Croatian Mindset . . . . . . . . . . . . . 348

Architecture . . . . . . . . . 352

The Natural Environment . . . . . . . . . 354

The Arts . . . . . . . . . . . . . 357

Directory A–Z . . . . . . . . 362

Transport . . . . . . . . . . . . 367

Language . . . . . . . . . . . . .371

Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 379

Map Legend . . . . . . . . . . 383

UNDERSTAND

SPECIAL FEATURESCroatia’s Islands . . . . . . 44

Lazy Days in Zagreb . . . 76

Croatia’s Coast . . . . . . . 163

Lazy Days in Split . . . . 252

Lazy Days in Dubrovnik . . . . . . . . . . . 312

Dubrovnik’s Old Town . . . . . . . . . . . . 306

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SURVIVAL GUIDE

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BOSNIA &HERCEGOVINA

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Itineraries

Essential Croatia

This itinerary focuses on the essential Croatian experience – a sunny island-hopping trip along the Dalmatian coast stopping at three World Heritage Sites along the way. Conveniently, it has an international airport at each end. We’ve envisaged it as a journey that can be made predominantly by ferry.

Start with a stroll through the marbled streets of the postcard-perfect walled town of Trogir. Either relax here for a

night or continue on to Croatia’s exuber-ant second city Split. Diocletian’s Palace is a living part of this seafront city, a throbbing ancient quarter that’s home to 220 historic buildings and about 3000 people. Base yourself here for a day or two of sightseeing and nightlife.

Hop on a fast catamaran to Bol on the island of Brač (or alternatively a car ferry to Supetar and then a bus). This pretty little port is most famous for Zlatni Rat beach – a glorious spur of pebbles that extends 500m into the Adriatic.

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Peristil (p240), Diocletian’s Palace, Split

Next, catch the catamaran to historic Hvar Town, the vibrant capital of the island of the same name. This picturesque place offers an intriguing mix of European glamour and a raucous bar scene.

From Hvar Town there are year-round connections to Korčula Town – a highly photogenic walled town jutting out into the Adriatic on its own little peninsula. From May to mid-October, there are

catamarans from here to Dubrovnik, oth-erwise you’ll need to catch the car ferry to Orebić on the Pelješac Peninsula and continue by bus.

Your first sight of the magnificent old town of Dubrovnik, ringed by mighty defensive walls and the sparkling blue Adriatic, is bound to blow you away. Spend the next two days taking in its sights.

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A D R I A T I CS E A

Lošinj

Rab

Volosko

Cres

Opatija

Zadar

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10 DAYS

Take in the delights of Croatia’s northern coastal stretches and their wild hinterland, starting with the Kvarner Gulf and moving south to northern Dalmatia with its wide spectrum of appealing sights.

Start in the capital of the Kvarner, Rijeka, Croatia’s third-largest city and a thriving port with a laid-back vibe and a lively cafe scene. Take a day to explore this undervisited city and another to visit the elegant seaside resort town of Opatija. Its beautiful belle époque villas date from the dying days of the Austro-Hungarian Empire, when the town was the stomping ground of the Viennese elite. While you’re at it, take time to stroll Lungomare, a picturesque path that winds along the coast through exotic bushes and thickets of bamboo to Volosko, a pretty fishing village that’s become one of Croatia’s gastronomic destinations; make sure you have lunch or dinner in one of its acclaimed restaurants.

Next, hop over to one of the Kvarner islands for two days – the interconnected Cres and Lošinj are the most offbeat. Wilder, greener Cres has remote campgrounds, pristine beaches, a handful of medieval villages and an off-the-radar feel. More populated and touristy Lošinj sports a pair of pretty port towns, a string of beautiful bays, and lush and varied vegetation throughout, with 1100 plant species and 230 medicinal herbs, many brought from faraway lands by sea captains. Spend another two days chilling on Rab, lounging on the sandy beaches of Lopar Peninsula and exploring the postcard-pretty Rab Town with its ancient stone alleys and the four bell towers that rise from them.

Back on the mainland, if you’re feeling ad-venturous, don’t miss a hike through the alpine trails and canyons of Paklenica National Park. Next head down to Zadar for an amble through this vibrant coastal city with its medley of Roman ruins, Habsburg architecture and a lovely seafront; stick around for two days to take it all in. Head back inland to spend a day exploring the dazzling natural wonderland of Plitvice Lakes National Park, with its gor-geous turquoise lakes linked by a series of wa-terfalls and cascades.

10 DAYS

Kvarner & Northern Dalmatia

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SLOVENIA

Lošinj

Pašman

Kornat

Olib

Molat

Iž

Unije

Zirje

Silba

Rab

Ugljan

Golfo diTrieste

LAZIO

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BrijuniIslands

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PaklenicaNational

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Plitvice LakesNational Park

MedvednicaNature Park

Kupa

Cape Kamenjak

Krapina

Poreč

Cres

Pag Town

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Rovinj

Rab Town

Samobor

Zadar

Opatija

Pula

Šibenik

Otočac

Rijeka

KrapinskeToplice

Krk Town

Karlovac

Ancona

TriesteZAGREB

LJUBLJANA

Senj

Umag

Pazin

Labin

Mali Lošinj

Primošten

Sali

Novalja

Hum

Lun

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Krk

Cres

Dugi Otok

KornatiNational

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VranskoLake

ITALY

Off the Beaten Track

An obscure choice among the multitude of Adriatic islands, Silba nonetheless has ferry services, beaches and a legendary tower. (p223)

SILBA ISLAND

It’s nice to know that even the busy island of Krk has quieter coves, such as this pebble-and-sand stretch accessed from a minor road heading south from Punat. (p195)

STARA BAŠKA

Istria has many gorgeous walled hilltop towns, but what’s particularly charming about Hum is its tiny size (basically one street) and tucked-away location. (p156)

HUM

Although it’s Croatia’s largest natural lake, Vransko Jezero doesn’t register on many travellers’ radars – unless they happen to be birdwatchers, then it’s a must-visit attraction. (p228)

VRANSKO LAKENATURE PARK

With a name worthy of a fantasy novel, this area near the northern tip of the island of Pag has marked walking trails through the groves and signs pointing out significantly venerable trees. (p219)

OLIVE GARDENS OF LUN

Tour past wee red-roofed villages, stopping at family-run wineries along the way. This route is located in the countryside west of Zagreb, 20km south of the town of Samobor.(p102)

PLEŠIVICA WINE ROAD

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Index

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

Aaccessible travel 362accommodation 362-3, see

also individual locationsagritourism 104, 161camping 49, 186, 197-8children, travel with 54hostels 49nudist resorts 146, 197

activities 21, 36-43, see also individual activities

air travel 367, 368animals 355aquariums 130-1Arch of the Sergii 130, 5archaeological sites 20-1

Arch of the Sergii 130, 5Burnum 231-2Kotli 156Mljet National Park 320Roman Amphitheatre 129Roman floor mosaic 130Roman Forum 221-2Salona 262Temple of Augustus 129Vučedol Culture Museum

121-2architecture 338, 352-3area codes 17art installations 220-1, 318arts 75, 78, 357-60Artuković, Lovro 360ATMs 364Augustinčić, Antun 104, 360

Bbackpacking 49Bale 136-7Baranja 119-21Bašanija 150Bašić, Nikola 220Baška 196-8Baška Tablet 196-7

basketball 351bathrooms 366beaches 19, 46, 167, 252-3,

312-13Brač Island 271, 273Cape Kamenjak 15, 131Colentum Beach 229-30Cres Island 182, 184,

185, 186Dubrovnik 312Dugi Otok 228Hvar Island 279Krk Island 193, 195, 197Lubenice Beach 186Makarska Riviera 266, 267Mljet National Park 321nudist 205, 267Pakleni Islands 282Paradise Beach 205Pasjača 317Pelješac Peninsula 322,

323Rab Island 205Silba Island 221Split 252Trigor 261Vis Island 286Zlatni Rat 14, 273Zrće Beach 217-18

Beli 182-3beer 16, 76, 76bicycling, see cyclingbirdwatching 15, 43, 111,

119-20, 183, 356, 15Blaca Hermitage 272Blue Cave 287boat tours 131, 139, 203,

223, 302boat travel 18, 45, 368-9,

see also sailingBol 14, 273-6, 47books 332border crossings 315border disputes 333Bosnia & Hercegovina 346-7Božava 228Brač Island 14, 269-75, 168Brela 266-7

Brijuni Islands 134-5budget 17bus travel 367-8, 369, 374-5business hours 17, 364-5Buzet 153-6

Ccafes 18, 76, 76-7canyons 180, 230Cape Kamenjak 15, 131, 15car travel 369-70castles & fortresses 259

City Walls & Forts (Dub-rovnik) 292-3, 292-3, 306

Fort Lawrence 293Fort St Jerome 18Fortica 276Kaštel 193-4Kaštilac 258Medvedgrad 102Morosini-Grimani Castle

18, 159Nehaj Castle 199Pazin Castle 158Sokol Grad 317St Mark’s Cathedral 327-8St Michael’s Fortress 234-5Ston 322Town Museum 108Trakošćan Castle 14,

106, 14Trsat Castle 171Veliki Tabor Castle 106, 2Zagorje region 14, 106, 14

cathedrals, see churches & cathedrals

caves 102, 143, 158, 211, 213, 273, 287, 354

Cavtat 314-17cell phones 16, 365cemeteries 65, 108, 271Central Dalmatia 62, 237-88,

238-9children, travel with 46,

52-4, 82, 151churches & cathedrals 352

All Saints’ Church 328

Cathedral of St Domnius 241

Cathedral of the Assumption (Dubrovnik) 301

Cathedral of the Assumption (Varaždin) 109

Church of St Anthony the Hermit 190

Church of the Assumption (Osor) 186

Church of the Assumption (Rab Town) 201

Church of Virgin Mary of Jerusalem 106

Collegiate Church of the Assumption 216

Ðakovo Cathedral of St Peter 113

Euphrasian Basilica 144-5, 30

Holy Cross Church 202Jesuit Church of St

Catherine 69, 88Our Lady of Trsat Church

173 Our-Lady-of-Health

Church 245St Anastasia’s

Cathedral 222St Blaise’s Church

(Dubrovnik) 301St Blaise’s Church

(Vodnjan) 135-6St Donatus’ Church 222St Euphemia’s Church

137, 139St Francis’ Monastery &

Church 130St James’ Cathedral 234,

214-15St Lawrence’s Cathedral

260St Lucy’s Church 196-7St Mark’s Cathedral 327St Mark’s Church 69St Stephen’s

Cathedral 276Čigoć 111cinema 332, 358

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climate 16, 22, 23, 25, see also individual regions

convents & monasteriesBenedictine Convent

277-8Dominican Monastery 273Dominican Monastery &

Museum 299Dominican Monastery

of St Peter the Martyr 283

Franciscan Monastery 223Franciscan Monastery &

Museum 298-9Košljun Franciscan

Monastery 195Krka Monastery 230-1Lokrum Island Benedic-

tine Monastery 294-5Monastery of St

Euphemia 204Mother of Mercy Fran-

ciscan Monastery 231credit cards 364Cres Island 14, 181-92, 14Cres Town 183-5Crikvenica 198-9Crveni Otok 140culture 332-3, 348-51currency 16, 364cycling 38-9, 47, 49, 368, 39

Dalmatia 38Danube Route 117Hvar Island 279Kvarner region 38, 181Lastovo Island 330Lošinj Island 188Pannonian Peace Route

117Parenzana Bike Trail 147Pula 131Zagreb 81

Ddance 325, 360dangers 365Ðakovo 113-14Diocletian’s Palace 12, 240-

1, 243-4, 12, 27disabilities, travellers

with 362discount cards 94, 363distilleries 124diving & snorkelling 39,

167, 41Brač Island 274Brijuni Islands 135Cres Island 184

Krk Island 194Orca Diving Center 131Poreč 145Rab Island 203Rovinj 139Vis Island 286wrecks 39

dolphins 181, 190, 191, 49Donji Humac 270drinks

beer 18, 76, 76coffee 10, 18wine 58-9, 113, 324, 329

Dubrovnik 9, 62, 291-314, 296-7, 300, 8-9, 292, 294-5, 306-7, 312-13

accommodation 304-5activities 302, 304discount cards 299drinking & nightlife

309-10entertainment 310festivals & events 304food 308-9, 307history 291shopping 310-11sights 291-9, 301-2, 312tourist information 311tours 302, 304travel to/from 311, 314travel within 314walking tours 293, 303,

303Đuđa i Mate 319 Dugi Otok 227-9

EElafiti Islands 317-18electricity 363emergencies 17, 374environment 354-6environmental issues 182,

356, 363, 368etiquette 349events, see festivals &

eventsexchange rates 17Euphrasian Basilica

144-5, 30

Fferry travel 369, 166festivals & events 22-5, 24,

see also music festivals, individual locations

Cest is d’Best 23Dubrovnik Summer

Festival 304film 24, 81, 82, 83,

131, 153Following the Cross 284

food 155Labin Art Republika 160-1Pag Carnival 217puppetry 82Rijeka Carnival 22, 173-4 theatre 82

films 332, 358food 19-20, 46, 55-9, 3, 57,

58, 215, see also indi-vidual locations

cooking classes 56, 131festivals 155Istria 10olive oil 135, 154, 219, 224oysters 322paški sir 213, 216truffles 153, 154, 155, 157 vegetarian 58, 87

football 351fortresses, see castles &

fortresses

Ggalleries, see museums &

galleriesGame of Thrones 293,

302, 304gardens 74-5, 79, 283, 316gay travellers 90, 350, 364Gospić 210-11Grabovača Cave Park 213Gračišće 162griffon vultures 182, 183, 184Grohote 264Grožnjan 151-2

Hhealth 363hiking 37-38, 47, 49, 38

Biokovo Nature Park 269Cres Island 181, 190Hvar Island 279Krk Island 197Lastovo Island 330Lošinj Island 181, 188,

190Medvednica Nature

Park 103Paklenica National

Park 211Rab Island 201Risnjak National Park 177Žumberak Samoborsko

Gorje Nature Park 99historic sites & buildings,

see also archaeological sites

Arsenal 277Diocletian’s Palace 12,

240-1, 243-4Krapje 111Rector’s Palace 297-8

Sabor 69Sponza Palace 301Tvrđa 115Varaždin 107

history 334-47, see also individual locations

holidays 365Hum 156-7Hvar Island 275-85Hvar Town 10, 276-82, 277,

278, 10, 44

IIlok 123-4Ilovik Island 189infectious diseases 363inland Croatia 60, 98-124,

100-1insurance 363, 370internet access 363-4internet resources 17islands 44-51, 166, 50-1Istralandia 151Istria 10, 61, 125-62, 126itineraries 26-35, 45, 26,

28, 34-5

JJadrolinija Island 189Jelsa 284-5

KKastav 178Kamerlengo Castle 261,

164-5Kaštela 258-9kayaking 40, 47, 139, 302,

304, 41Klančić 195Klanjec 104Koločep 317Komiža 288Konavle 317Kopački Rit Nature Park 15,

43, 119-21, 2, 15Korčula Island 324-30, 11Korčula Town 11, 46, 325-9,

326Kornati Islands 355Kornati National Park

230, 214Košljun 195Kozjak 208Krapinske Toplice 104-5Krapje 111Krk Island 192-3, 167Krk Town 193-4Krka National Park 12,

230-2, 12Kumrovec 105Kvarner 61, 169-205, 170

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

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DEX L-P

LLabin 160-2lacemaking 213, 216-17lakes 78, 208-9, 229,

236, 320language 16, 357, 371-5Large Onofrio Fountain 298Lastovo Island 330legal matters 364LGBT travellers 90, 350,

364lighthouses 150, 227-8Lika 208-12, 213Limski Kanal 141Lipizzaner horses 114literature 332, 357-8Lokrum Island 294-5, 294-5Lonjsko Polje Nature

Park 111Lopar 205Lopud 317Lošinj Island 181-92Lotrščak Tower & funicular

railway 68, 54Lubenice 186Lumbarda 329

MMakarska Riviera 266-9Mala Učka 180Mali Lošinj 187-90Mali Ston 321-3Malinska 192-3maps 364markets 68, 93, 88Maslinica 264measures 365medical services 363Međimurje 111-12memorials 130Milna 270Mirogoj 65, 88-9Mljet Island 13, 318-21,

13, 28-9Mljet National Park 13, 320mobile phones 16, 365Momjan 150-1monasteries, see convents

& monasteriesmoney 16, 17, 364Montenegro 315monuments 120, 139 Mostar 315Motovun 13, 24, 152-3,

154, 13Mt Medvednica 102-3mummies 136Murter Island 229-30museums & galleries

Antun Augustinčić Gallery 104

Archaeological Museum (Split) 244

Archaeological Museum (Zadar) 221

Archaeological Museum (Zagreb) 74

Branislav Dešković Art Gallery 273

Bukovac House 315Castle Eltz 122Cres Museum 183-4Croatian Association of

Artists 73-4Croatian Museum of

Naïve Art 65-8Croatian Museum of

Tourism 179Croatian Natural History

Museum 72Dražen Petrović Memorial

Museum 79Ethnographic Museum 78Fritzy Palace 188Galerija Klovićevi Dvori 68Gloria Maris 115Grožnjan 151Istria Historical &

Maritime Museum 129Kumrovec Staro Selo

Museum 105Lauba 78Lošinj Marine Education

Centre 190Love Stories Museum

18, 302Maritime & History

Museum 171Meštrović Atelier 72Meštrović Crikvene-

Kaštilac 245Meštrović Gallery 244-5Motovun: A History in

Motion 18Museum Mimara 74Museum of Ancient

Glass 221Museum of Art &

Crafts 78Museum of Broken

Relationships 65, 89Museum of

Contemporary Art 78-9Museum of Illusion 74Museum of Illusions 223Museum of Modern &

Contemporary Art 173Museum of Modern

Art 302Museum of Religious

Art 223Museum of Salt 219Museum of Slavonia

Archaeology Department 115

Museum of the Krapina Neanderthal 106-7

Narona Archaeological Museum 319

Nikola Tesla Memorial Centre 210-11

Osor Archaeological Collection 186-7

Pag Lace Gallery 216-17Rovinj City Museum 137Sacred Art Museum 261St Mark’s Abbey

Treasury 328Strossmayer Gallery of

Old Masters 75Technical Museum

Nikola Tesla 79Tortureum 69Tower Museum 190Victory Museum 18, 235Vučedol Culture Museum

121-2War Photo Limited 291-6World of Insects 109Zagreb 80’s Museum 69

music 255, 358-9 music festivals 23, 24, 139

Hideout 217-18INmusic Festival 23, 81Music Biennale Zagreb 81Osor Musical Evenings 187Outlook Festival 131Rab Musical Evenings 203Seasplash Festival 131Sonus 218St Donatus Musical

Evenings 224Tisno 231Ultra Beach 279Ultra Europe 247Varaždin Baroque

Evenings 109Mužilovčica 111

NNadin 224national parks 21, 354-5

Brijuni Islands 134-5Kornati National Park

230, 214Krka National Park 12,

230-2, 12Mljet National Park

13, 320Northern Velebit

National Park 355Paklenica National Park

211-16, 33Plitvice Lakes National

Park 9, 208-9, 210, 9, 38, 214-15

Risnjak National Park 176-7

nature parksBiokovo Nature Park 269Kopački Rit Nature Park

15, 43, 119-21, 2, 15Lonjsko Polje Nature

Park 111Medvednica Nature

Park 103Učka Nature Park 180-2Vransko Lake Nature

Park 228Žumberak Samoborsko

Gorje Nature Park 99Nerezine 187nightlife 21, 46-7, see also

individual locationsNin 219-20Northern Dalmatia 61,

206-36, 207Northern Velebit National

Park 355Novalja 218-19Novigrad 149

OObonjan Island 234Okuklje 320-1Omiš 265-6, 20Opatija 178-80opening hours 17, 364-5Orebić 323-4Osijek 114-19, 116Osor 186

PPag Island 213-19, 163Pakleni Islands 282-3Paklenica National Park

211-16, 33paragliding 42, 99, 198parks 74-5, 79, 283, 316passports 367Pazin 157-9Pelješac Peninsula 321-4photography 365picigin 244planning

budgeting 17calendar of events 22-5children, travel with 46,

52-4, 82, 151Croatia basics 16-17Croatia’s islands 44-51,

166, 50-1Croatia’s regions 60-2internet resources 17itineraries 26-35, 26,

28, 34-5outdoor activities 36-43repeat visitors 18travel seasons 16-17, 22,

23, 25, 45

382

IND

EX P-Z

plants 356Plešivica Wine Road 102Plitvice Lakes National Park

9, 208-9, 210, 9, 38, 214-15

Podstrana 265politics 332-3population 333Poreč 143-8, 144postal services 365Potomje 322Premantura Peninsula 131Primošten 236public holidays 365Pučišća 270Pula 127-134, 128, 30-1,Pulitika, Ðuro 360Punat 195

RRab Island 200-5Rab Town 200-5, 202Rabac 160-2rafting 43, 265raptors 232religion 333, 350Rijeka 171-6, 172, 32-3Risnjak National Park 176-7Roč 156rock climbing 42, 99, 197,

211-12, 43Ročka Konoba 156Rogač 264Rogoznica 236Roman ruins 335, 352, 20,

30-1, see also archaeological sites

Rovinj 137-43, 138

Ssafety 365sailing 40, 47, 188, 40Sali 228-9Salona 262Samobor 99Saplunara 321Sea Organ 220, 52Senj 199shopping 93-7, see also

individual locationsŠibenik 232-5, 233, 164Šibenik-Knin region 229-36Silba Island 221Šipan 318skiing 38, 103Skira, Dean 130Skradinski Buk 231, 12

Škrip 270Slavonia 112-24snorkelling, see diving &

snorkellingŠolta Island 264-5Southern Dalmatia 62,

289-330, 290Split 12, 62, 240-58, 242-

3, 248-9, 252-3accommodation 247-9drinking & nightlife 251-4entertainment 255festivals & events 247food 249-51history 240shopping 255sights 240-1, 243-5, 252tourist information 256tours 245travel to/from 256-7travel within 257, 258walking tours 246, 246

sports 351St Mary’s Campanile 201Stara Baška 195, 48Stari Grad 283-4Stiniva 286, 36Stobreč 265Stomorska 264Ston 321-3, 165Sumartin 270Supetar 271-2Susak Island 189Sveta Katarina 140Sveta Marija 320Sveti Ilija 201Svetvinčenat 159-62swimming 37, 131, 36synagogues 299

Ttap water 363tax 362Telašćica Bay 229telephone services 16, 365tennis 351Tesla, Nikola 79, 210-11, 350thermal springs 104-5, 109,

112, 154time 16, 366tipping 364Tisno 229-30, 231Tito, Josip Broz 105, 135,

343, 344toilets 366Toreta 223tourism 332-3tourist information 366tours 370, see also boat

tours, individual locations

Trakošćan Castle 106, 14train travel 368, 370, 374-5Tramuntana sheep 182travel to/from Croatia 17,

367-8travel within Croatia 17,

368-70trekking, see hikingTrogir 259-60, 260Trsteno Arboretum 316Tučepi 268tunnels 130turtles 188

UUčka Nature Park 180-2Ultra Europe 247Umag 148-50Unije Island 189

Vvacations 365Valun 185-6Varaždin 107-12, 108Varaždinske Toplice 109vegetarian travellers 58, 87Vela Draga 180Vela Luka 330Veli Brijun 49Veli Lošinj 190-2Veli Rat 227-8Veliki Revelin Tower 327, 48Veliki Slap 208Veliki Tabor Castle 106, 2Verne, Jules 158Vid 319Vidova Gora 272Vis Island 11, 285-8, 11Vis Town 286-8visas 16, 366Vodnjan 135-6Volosko 177-8volunteering 366Vransko Lake Nature Park

228Vrbnik 18, 195-6Vrboska 284Vukovar 121-3

Wwalking tours, see

individual locationswalled towns 19, 164, 178,

199-200, 292-3water parks 151waterfalls 208, 209, 231, 354weather 16, 22, 23, 25weights 365wildlife 355-6wildlife sanctuaries 182-3,

188, 213, 232

wildlife-watching 43, 49, 177, 181, 209

windsurfing 42, 47, 188, 273-4, 14

wine 58-9, 113, 324, 329wineries

Brač Island 273Central Dalmatia 258-60Ilok 124inland Croatia 102Istria 143, 150Kozlović 150Kvarner region 195, 196Međimurje 111-12Pelješac Wine Trail 322Plešivica Wine Road 102Slavonia 113Zagorje 104

work 366

ZZadar 13, 220-7, 222, 13, 20

accommodation 224-5activities 223drinking & nightlife 226entertainment 226festivals & events 224food 225history 220shopping 226sights 220-3tourist information 226tours 223-4travel to/from 226-7travel within 227

Zagorje 14, 103-10, 14Zagreb 10, 60, 64-97, 66-7,

70-1, 10accommodation 64, 83-4children, travel with 82climate 64drinking & nightlife 10,

76, 87-92entertainment 92-3festivals & events 81-3food 64, 85-7, 28highlights 66-7, 66-7history 65LQBTIQ+ travellers 90shopping 93, 93-7sights 65, 68-9, 72-5, 78-9street art 75tourist information 95tours 79, 81travel seasons 64travel to/from 95travel within 94, 96-7walking tours 79, 80, 80

zip lining 18, 158, 159, 197, 213, 266, 20

zoos 79, 115Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

Published by Lonely Planet Global LimitedCRN 55415310th edition – April 2019ISBN 978 1 78657 805 1© Lonely Planet 2019 Photographs © as indicated 201910 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1Printed in ChinaAll rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.

OUR STORYA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.

Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Dublin, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.

Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasona-ble care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.

OUR WRITERSPeter DragicevicIstria, Central Dalmatia, Southern Dalmatia After a successful career in niche newspaper and magazine publishing, both in his native New Zealand and in Australia, Peter finally gave in to Kiwi wanderlust, giving up staff jobs to chase his diverse roots around Europe. Over the last decade he’s written literally dozens of guidebooks for Lonely Planet on an oddly disparate collection of countries, all of which he’s come to love. He once again calls Auckland, New Zealand his home

– although his current nomadic existence means he’s often elsewhere. Peter also wrote the Plan Your Trip, Understand and Survival Guide sections of this book.

Anthony HamKvarner, Northern Dalmatia When he’s not writing for Lonely Planet, Anthony writes about and photographs Spain, Africa and the Middle East for newspapers and magazines in Australia, the UK and US. In 2001, after years of wandering the world, Anthony finally found his spiritual home when he fell irretrievably in love with Madrid on his first visit to the city. Ten years later, Anthony spoke Spanish with a Madrid accent, was married to a local and Madrid had become his second

home. Now back in Australia, Anthony continues to travel the world in search of stories.

Jessica LeeZagreb, Inland Croatia In 2011 Jessica swapped a career as an adventure-tour leader for travel writing. Since then her travels for Lonely Planet have taken her across Africa, the Middle East and Asia, and she has contributed to guidebooks on Egypt, Turkey, Cyprus, Morocco, Marrakesh, Middle East, Europe, Africa, Cambodia and Vietnam. Her travel writing has also appeared in Wanderlust magazine, the Daily Telegraph, the Independent, BBC Travel and Lonelyplanet.

com. Jess has lived in the Middle East since 2007 and tweets @jessofarabia.