Rocco Panio, Perugia, Umbria, Italy 2009 Cover: RoseMarie and Rocco, San Giorgio Lucano, Matera, Basilicata, Italy, 2010 Photographer Dr. Angelo Panio

 

 

DLite Press P.O. Box 824 Yorktown Heights NY 10598-9998 http://www.dlitepress.com The author does not guarantee and assumes no responsibility on the accuracy of any websites, links or other contacts contained in this book.

Celebrate Italy… …And its culture of food and wines

Provincial Italian Recipes and Wines – RoseMarie Panio All rights reserved. Copyright © 2012 RoseMarie Panio DLite Press/published by arrangement with the author PRINTING HISTORY DLite Press/ 2012 All photographs courtesy of the Rocco & RoseMarie Panio family www.paniocelebrateitaly.com All right reserved. No part of this book may be used or reproduced by any means, graphic, electronic, or mechanical, including scanning, photocopying, recording, taping or by any information storage retrieval system without the written permission of the publisher except in the case of brief quotations embodied in critical articles and reviews. Please do not encourage piracy or plagiarization of copyrighted material in violation of the author’s rights. Purchase only authorized editions. Library of Congress Control Number: 2012948168 ISBN: 13: 978-1-937143-09-1

 

 

••• AND ITS CULTURE OF FOOD AND WINE

RoseMarie Panio

 

 

Foreward I have known RoseMarie for many years. She is a self-trained Italian home chef whose love for Italian culture, its food and wine is extraordinary. Her annual visits to the old country to visit family and friends have strengthened her understanding of the different regions, provinces, cultures and cuisines. She and her Italian husband of 48 years are also experts in wine – specifically Italian wine. RoseMarie’s recipes are a result of a lifetime of travel throughout Italy for nearly 50 years including 10 years residency in Tuscany, Umbria and Piedmont. Her approach to the recipes is so personal you feel as though you’re in her kitchen cooking alongside her. RoseMarie wrote this book to pass along these traditions to her children and grandchildren. It is also a way to thank all the great people and friends she has met throughout her life. I am happy to be one of her friends. Sal Scognamillo Chef and Restaurateur Patsy’s NYC

 

 

Mille Grazie…..Thank You I would like to thank the many people who taught me to enjoy the art of cooking, the value of family dining and the joy of hospitality. My mother was my first mentor along with my aunts and the many people I encountered on both sides of the ocean. Thank you, to all my friends in Italy, from different regions whose hospitality and friendship I value and cherish. Thank you, to my American friends for their love and support. Thank you, to my husband, my children and grandchildren who have been my inspiration and reason for creating this book. A special “Grazie” to our family in Italy, especially our nieces and nephews who have shared our travels throughout Italy and our enthusiasm for food, wine and conviviality!

RoseMarie and Sal at Patsy’s

 

 

Dedication I would like to dedicate the following collection of recipes to the memory of my parents, who passed on to me a love of family, home, food and garden. Their work ethic and methodical lifestyle, their ability to make wonderful things, and their love of Italian things (“cose Italiane”) never faltered. Long before it was chic, they made their own wine, grew their own vegetables and were meticulous about their surroundings. It was my good fortune to meet a wonderful Italian man while traveling in Italy in 1964. We were married 7 months and 1 day after we met, and have been inseparable ever since. We lived in Italy for many years, and traveled extensively throughout the peninsula. He was a soccer player by profession, and I was his American bride. His playing schedule took us to all the regions of Italy. I had the good fortune to experience the culinary delights of each region from Torino to Sicilia, and along with the wonderful food, I learned to appreciate Italy’s great wines. The many people I met, and the many friends I made, all changed my life forever. They each in their own way made me even more aware of everything around me. The churches, the architecture, the language, the lifestyle and the art became a permanent part of my life. Our children are now grown, educated and married. Their Italian heritage is a very important part of their lives. To our great delight, they too are “casalinghi” by nature. They are loving, hard working, meticulous about their surroundings, and reverent of their ancestors. The Italians say “la vita e una ruota che gira” – “Life is like a wheel that turns.” I do believe we’re right! I am very pleased to say that our grandchildren are now learning about our Italian heritage, the language and, of course, the food! I decided to write this cookbook so the many recipes my mother handed down to me would not be lost after her passing. I want to preserve these recipes that are not only part of everyday life for us, but have been symbols of our great holiday traditions. I have tried to articulate for our readers what has been in my head for many years. I hope you enjoy these dishes and wines as much as my family and I do. RoseMarie Panio September 2012

 

 

Riservato agli Amici Good wine cries out for good food! The enjoyment of wine undoubtedly ranks among life’s great pleasures – add to that an appreciation of fine food, and you have a marriage made in heaven. Of course, this marriage of wine and food is always best when shared with family and friends. I, personally, like dishes that are easy to prepare, have a few good ingredients and are worthy of serving to people we care about. I like to plan an entire meal, picking and choosing foods and wines that complement one another. Every occasion has the right menu, from a simple meal “al improviso” to Sunday dinner or a holiday feast. Part of the enjoyment of presenting such a meal is in the pleasure of preparing for it. In order to be prepared for any culinary occasion, one must have a well-equipped pantry and a comfortable place to cook. A kitchen need not be large, but space will be needed for the collection of pots and pans that are accumulated as one’s cooking is personalized At this point a good cook becomes like a good golfer. The good cook has a special pan for almost every dish, much as a good golfer has the right club for every shot.

 

 

Shopping Every great culinary experience, whether a quick snack or a great feast, begins with a trip to the market. I like to develop a personal relationship with the people from whom I shop. These individuals will become part of your kitchen, and the relationship will make the preparation of food all the more enjoyable. They too understand your dining standards, will feel more appreciated and are more likely to aid you and serve you well. He or she will also be more likely to seek out that special ingredient you can’t find and look for that great wine or those special pears you want to serve with the perfect cheese. Life is more enjoyable when you appear to enjoy what you are doing. There are two types of shopping. One is for the long term. This is the shopping for items you’ll need and want in your pantry to have on hand when you need to use them (and includes items that are well-priced that you might have to pay more for at another time – a sale! – e.g. olive oil at a great price, or a sale on pasta or tomatoes). The second is for ingredients you need to prepare a dish you plan to make currently, or items that are currently on sale (like fresh produce or a fish or meat that you’ll include in your menu because of its value.) An example could be if you decide to include lobster to a fish stew because it’s available at such a great price, and affords you the opportunity to offer your family a special treat. Sometimes these ingredients can also be stored, or frozen to be used at a later date. Talking to your merchants is important! Let them know if you’re displeased, or want something unusual and compliment them if you’re pleased with their product. Oftentimes, they will adjust their purchasing habits to suit the needs of their customers – or at least they should. They are not mind readers; by communicating, you have a greater probability of acquiring what you need and they will offer suggestions that can improve your recipe. Don’t forget they too should be in the wine or food business because they know and enjoy their products.

 

 

Your Italian Pantry If you want to cook “Italian” there are some basic products you must have in your pantry. This will enable you to decide “al improviso” to cook a dish whenever the spirit moves you. Some of these products are: Olive oil, both regular and extra virgin Tomato sauce, pelati (San Marzano), chopped and sauce (a good brand) and paste Pasta: a variety of short, long, small, soup and egg Rice: long grain and Arborio Polenta, express and regular Balsamic vinegar White wine vinegar Broth: chicken, beef, veal & fish Garlic Onions: red, Spanish, Vidalia Anchovy: flat Sea salt Wine: red and white (a good jug for cooking, not cooking wine) Italian parsley Fresh basil Parmigiano Reggiano Canola oil for frying It would be nice to have: Dried Porcini mushrooms Zafferano Abruzzese (Saffron from Abruzzo) Pancetta

 

 

Chapters of RoseMarie Panio’s Recipes Opening: Riservato agli Amici – Reserved for Friends This is an opening section that tells about my personal journey with the culture of the family table, its social significance as well as its nutritive value. I also touch on how to shop and create a pantry that will help you have what you need on hand to create the dishes you want – when you want. I mention, as well, how meeting Rocco in Italy while on a ski trip in 1964 changed my life forever. I decided to write this cookbook so the many recipes handed down to me would not be lost. My personal cooking style, while firmly based in my mother’s cooking, evolved by virtue of the years of exposure to regional Italian cuisine and culture. The essence of Italian cuisine is based on what’s available regionally in each season. Cooking for the family, and making the best use of local fare created a culture of food and wine. Families managed to survive despite financial challenges. “La Cucina Povera” is an important part of Italian cuisine. Antipasti Primi Piatti – First Dishes Secondi Piatti – Main Dishes Contorni – Side Dishes Dolci – Desserts Vini – Let’s talk wines from Italy’s 20 Regions Lago Maggiore, Italy, 1964

 

 

    

Contents

 

 

Contents 

ANTIPASTI 

Artichokes – Stuffed Sicilian Style 

Uova Sottaceto – Pickled Eggs 

Sun Dried Tomatoes 

Caponata 

Eggplant in Vinegar 

Acciughe Verde (anchovies in parsley sauce) 

Arugula/Prosciutto 

Roasted Peppers 

Asparagus in Olive Oil and Prosciutto 

Bagna Caôda – Hot Bath 

Bruschetta 

Caprese, Antipasto – Capri Style (mozzarella, tomato and basil) 

Mussels in Wine 

Carpaccio 

Antipasto Misto 

Clams Baked 

Artichoke Hearts – Pickled 

Pickled Peppers (peppers in vinegar) 

Contorni 

Potato Croquettes 

Cipollata 

Peperonata (Pepper/onion) 

Savory Bread Casserole 

Stuffed Italian Peppers 

Pasticcio di Patate e Salsiccie 

Escarole 

Zucchini Flowers 

Focaccia 

Fagioli Verde – Wide Green Beans 

Tomato Salad 

 

 

String Bean Salad 

Zucchini Sottaceto 

Taralli 

Broccoli di Rape (side dish) 

Parmigiano Crisps 

Uova in Purgatorio – Eggs in Purgatory 

Pizza Alla Napoletana 

Patate in Teglia 

Stuffed Mushrooms – Funghi Imbottiti 

Artichoke Hearts – deep fried 

Bolliti e Sfritti 

Pizza Rustica 

Baccalá Salad 

Salsa Verde 

Sweet Little Peppers (red, orange and yellow) 

Primi Piatti 

Thanksgiving Turkey Escarole Soup (with little meatballs) 

Agnolotti – Small Stuffed Pasta 

Manicotti 

Pasta All’uovo 

Rotolo Alla Fiorentina 

Pasta Alla Carbonara 

Risotto – Basic 

Gamberi – Shrimp and Linguine 

Fagioli e Maltagliati 

Grape Tomato & Garlic Sauce 

Bow Ties with Cream Broccoli Florets 

Broccoli di Rape with Salsiccia & Orecchiette 

Gnocchi Di Patate 

Tonno e Capperi – Salsa 

Stew‐Beef or Lamb (Carne in Umido) 

Minestrone 

Stuffed Red Peppers and Sauce 

 

 

Pesto 

Stracciatella Alla Romana (Italian egg soup, Roman style) 

Fusilli di Casa 

Special Sauce – Mother Rose’s 

Minestra, Minestrone, Minestrina ….. 

Penne Alla Vodka 

Chicken Soup – Italian Style 

Bucatini All’Amatriciana 

Manicotti con Spinaci e Balsamella 

Pasta e Ceci 

Fagioli in Tegame – Cannellini Bean Casserole 

Beef Soup 

Chickpeas with Orecchiette 

Briciolata Sauce 

Insalata di Riso – Rice Salad 

Orzo with Peas, Pancetta and Green Onions 

Secondi Piatti 

Cotechino with Beans or Lentils 

Pancotto 

Loin of Pork 

Baccalá Stew 

Chicken Cacciatora or Rabbit Cacciatora 

Ossobuco (con piselli) Veal Shanks 

Braised Sausage 

Carne Pizzaiola 

Cannelloni con Carne 

Baked Scrod 

Scaloppine Alla Marsala 

Spezzatino di Vitello con Funghi 

Chicken, Red peppers & Pappardelle 

Traditional Cioppino 

Sogliola Alla Fiorentina – Sole Florentine style 

Lemon Scented Pasta 

 

 

Polenta 

Breaded Veal Cutlet, Cotoletta or Costoletta Alla Milanese 

Vitello Tonnato 

Polpette di Vitello – Veal Meatballs 

Veal Polpettone – Roasted Veal Meatloaf 

Trasimeno Stew 

Eggplant Alla Parmigiana 

Stuffed Bass 

Lamb Shanks in Red Wine Sauce 

Thanksgiving Sausage Stuffing for Fresh Turkey 

Cranberry Sauce – Lemon Scented 

Roast Leg of Lamb – Abbacchio al Forno 

Easter Menu…Santa Pasqua 

Dolci 

Amarettini Cake 

Bow Knots 

Panettone Bread Pudding 

Baked Fruit 

Italian Cheese Cake 

Panna Cotta (cooked cream) 

Pinoli cookies 

Tiramisu 

Amaretti 

Savoiardi (Lady Fingers) 

Biscotti – Cantucci 

White Cookies (very special) 

Pizzelle 

Crostata Di Frutta 

Le Crespelle – Rosettes 

Poached Pears 

Zeppole 

Cannoli Shells or Discs 

Easter Pie (Pastiera) 

 

 

Colomba Di Pasqua – Easter Dove 

Gianduia Gelato 

Fruit – Fruit With Cheese Fruit With Everything 

Pasticiotti 

Pane di Pasqua (Easter Bread) 

Pane di Spagna – Sponge Cake and Crema (cream filling) 

Seadas – Sardinian Dessert 

Strufoli 

Zabaione 

Parliamo di Vini 

Parliamo di Vini 

How did I become so interested in wine and food? 

Tips for storing wine: 

Limoncello – Make it yourself 

Dessert Wines 

Make Your Own Vinegar 

A Message from the Author 

ABOUT THE AUTHOR 

 

 

ANTIPASTI

 

 

Artichokes – Stuffed Sicilian Style 4 large artichokes 1 cup seasoned breadcrumbs ½ cup grated Parmigiano Reggiano 4 chopped anchovy filets 3 cloves of chopped garlic (large cloves) ½ cup chopped parsley (a fist full that is washed, dried and chopped) 6-8 tablespoons of olive oil 1 cup of white wine 1 cup of water Salt and pepper Lemon zest, optional The preparation of this dish takes a little time and effort, but the results are well worth it. When purchasing artichokes, make sure the stems seem green and fresh. The outer leaves (which you will later remove) should also look vibrant. If you start out with dried out vegetables, it doesn’t matter what you do; they will be tasteless. Cut off the stems and the tough outer leaves of the artichokes, as well as about ½ inch off the tops. Wash them under running water and carefully open them up from the center out. Tap and shake them to loosen any water from the inside and dry off. Prepare your stuffing in a large bowl adding together the breadcrumbs, cheese, anchovy filets, chopped garlic, chopped parsley, salt and pepper and lemon zest. Place the artichokes in a pan with a cover. Place the wine and water in the pan with 2 tablespoons of olive oil, then the stuffed artichokes. Make sure you get the stuffing in between all the leaves. Drizzle some of the olive oil over each artichoke. Place the pan, covered, over a moderate flame for about 45 minutes. Watch your pan carefully. If there is no steam coming from the covered pan, you will need to add more wine and water and continue cooking. If the outer leaves come off easily, the vegetable is cooked. Leave covered and allow to rest before serving. I would serve this robust dish with a lighter meat or fish dish. I would choose a wonderful Sicilian white wine to accompany it or a light red. Nero d’Avola is a great red wine and Grecanico white is produced throughout the Island. Both an Insolia (white) and a Nero d’Avola (red) are now readily available. Slice up some great ciabatta bread. Afterwards, have some wonderful blood oranges and a great espresso and you’ll feel like you’re dining in a Sicilian “retrovo,” overlooking the Mediterranean Sea.

 

 

Uova Sottaceto – Pickled Eggs One dozen hard-boiled large eggs 1 pint white vinegar 2 pints water 8-10 peppercorns 1 teaspoon crushed red pepper 1 small onion (sliced) 1-2 cloves garlic ½ teaspoon salt (I prefer coarse sea salt) Rosemary (optional) Place vinegar and water in a large saucepan with peppercorns, red pepper, onion, garlic and salt. Bring to a boil and cook for 10 minutes. Allow the solution to cool off. In the meantime, peel eggs being careful not to split. Place 4 eggs in each sterilized pint-sized jar and pour the solution over eggs. Place sterilized lids and caps to seal jars. Place in the refrigerator for at least one week. Rosemary can be placed into jar before sealing. If you’re using fresh Rosemary in the jar, it should be washed and dried before using. These eggs can be a wonderful part of your antipasto repertoire. They can be cut in half or sliced. They can also be cut in half and stuffed. To stuff: Cut in half and carefully remove yolks. Chop yolks and add 5 anchovy filets, 1-2 tablespoons of butter, chopped parsley and mayonnaise. Refill eggs & sprinkle with pepper or paprika for a bit of color. I like to put all my pickled eggs into one very large mayonnaise jar. I place all the eggs in with the cooled mixture. This keeps them handy for snacking, too.

 

 

Sun Dried Tomatoes Three pounds plum tomatoes (preferably San Marzano, ripe) Olive oil Garlic Pepperoncino – red crushed pepper Wash and cut the tomatoes in half and remove stems. Preheat oven to 200˚F. Place on an un-greased cookie sheet and put in the oven for 6-8 hrs. Turn every few hours. Cool completely. Remove carefully. When cool and somewhat stiff, place in sterilized vessels. Add chopped garlic and cover with olive oil and cap. If you prefer, crushed red pepper can be added. These can be kept for quite awhile. They can be served over cooked pasta. Cook your favorite pasta, heat chopped tomatoes along with olive oil and add to pasta and top with grated cheese. They can also be served with an antipasto, alongside sliced mozzarella or provolone, or can be substituted for fresh tomatoes in bruschetta. Sundried Tomatoes and Artichoke Hearts

 

 

Make Your Own Vinegar It’s easy and practical to make your own vinegar. I started my vinegar bottle 35 years ago, and have never had to worry about purchasing red wine vinegar. There is always some wine left over after dinner. Keep it in a large jar or bottle in a dark, cool place. In a short time the “mother vinegar” will form at the bottom of the bottle. You can have a red jar and a white jar, if you like. Although, making white wine vinegar is not always as successful as the red wine vinegar. Keep adding leftover dry red wine to your red jar and white to your white jar. Do not add any wine that has turned. It will take several months for fermentation. Each time you add wine (depending on how much you add) you will dilute the potency of the vinegar. You will have to wait for full fermentation to reoccur. Before diluting, if the vinegar has developed the flavor you like, take some out to use, then refill the remaining wine and allow the new batch to ferment. These vinegars are especially good for marinating meats! I have graduated to using two five-gallon jugs complete with pumps. It’s an ongoing process. You can also flavor your vinegar with garlic cloves, shallots or herbs. Homemade vinegars also make a lovely gift for a special friend who will appreciate your efforts.

A Message from the Author I hope my readers will not be intimidated by these recipes. Some are very simple, while others require some planning. If you decide to try the easier ones first, you can plan your meal depending on how much time you have on any given day. If you’re going to be busy, set the table ahead that morning, or the night before. It’s important that you create the feeling that dining together is important enough to make it a commitment. A tablecloth and a nice looking table will help create a welcoming sign that the trials and tribulations of the day are over. It’s time for the comfort of food and family. No cell phones or electronics, including television. Let’s hear about the day. No matter how bad your day, a hot meal and good conversation will relax everyone. It will also give you the energy to deal with tomorrow. It is up to each one of us to create the life we want to live each day.

 

 

ABOUT THE AUTHOR  

RoseMarie grew up in Colonial Heights, Yonkers, New York. After graduating from business school, she got her first job for Look Magazine. She was an avid amateur downhill skier, and in the winter of 1964, she set out to ski in Europe.

It was during this trip that she met her husband, Rocco Panio, a prominent professional soccer player. They were engaged by Easter and married in September. For almost a decade, they lived in Tuscany, near the Ligurian Coast and in Umbria and Torino. Their travels and his game schedule took them to every region of Italy.

In July of 1971, they returned to the United States to live and raise their two children. A year later, they opened Panio Wines and Liquors. Their goal was to pass along their love of Italian regional wines and foods. They returned to Italy as often as possible to reconnect with family and friends. This new career would go on for 40 years. They are now retired and spend part of the year in Italy with family and friends throughout the peninsula and its islands.

RoseMarie's interest in cooking and wine started in her parents' home. They taught her the importance of family dining. They made their own wine and prepared traditional dishes. She and Rocco have continued this ritual of dining together with their children and grandchildren for Sunday dinner.

RoseMarie started putting a collection of recipes together so her mother's recipes, as well as those she collected as her cooking evolved over the many years, and from visits back to the old country, would not be lost or forgotten.

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Also available on Amazon & Barnes & Noble Hardcover $29.99. Ebook $11.99 LCCN: 2012948168 Print ISBN: 978-1-937143-20-6; eBook ISBN-13: 978-1-937143-09-1 Summary: Celebrate Italy… And its Culture of Food and Wines by RoseMarie Panio Celebrate Italy with this collection of traditional Italian wines and cuisine. RoseMarie’s recipes are a result of a lifetime of travel throughout Italy…including 10 years residency in Tuscany, Umbria and Piedmont. From Torino to Sicilia, these recipes incorporate the wines, cultures and cuisine of Italy. DLite Press P.O. Box 824 Yorktown Height, NY. 10598