clariant presentation at innocos europe, paris

Public

Industrial & Consumer SpecialtiesAD Personal Care

Dr. Frederic Pilz

19.02.2010

Preserve more with less- increasing the performance of preservatives with Velsan® SC

PublicDr. Frederic PilzIndustrial & Consumer SpecialtiesAD Personal Care04.03.2011

Dr. Frederic Pilz, Industrial & Consumer Specialties, AD Personal Care (Copyright Clariant. All rights reserved.) Slide 204.03.2011Public – Velsan® SC - Preserve more with less

Velsan® SC

hydrotrope, co-emulsifying agent for cosmetic formulations

synergistic efficacy booster for preservative systems

100 % based on renewable resources

low odour, non volatile liquid

Ecocert approved

not listed as a preservative

cost effective alternative to 1,2-Octanediol or Ethylhexylglycerin


Velsan® SC- the benefits

hydrotrope, co-emulsifying agent for cosmetic formulations– multifunctional cosmetic ingredient with a HLB of approx. 11 (calculated)– Sorbitan Esters used since many years mild products with excellent toxicological profile

synergistic efficacy booster for preservative systems– boosts efficacy of classical preservative like aromatic alcohols or organic acids synergistically– efficacy comparable to aromatic alcohols like Phenoxyethanol or Benzyl Alcohol– helps to lower the overall amount of classical preservatives needed for a safe preservation– resulting in milder formulations (less irritation or sensitization potential)– reduces negative side-effects of other antimicrobials: instability due to thinning, odour

not listed as a preservative– in combination with other non-listed actives “preservative-free” claim possible– can be used globally without limitations


Velsan® SC- the benefits

100 % based on renewable resources– Sorbitan via Sorbitol from wheat/corn and Octanoic acid from coco/palm oil– no formaldehyde-release, not halogenated

low odour, non volatile liquid– does not cause odour even if used at high concentrations

cost effective alternative to 1,2-Octanediol or Ethylhexylglycerin– efficacy comparable to other non-listed polyols– in contrast to these synthetic polyols, Velsan® SC is 100 % based on renewable resources

pH independent– can be used within a wide pH range from pH 5-8– excellent in combination with organic acids at a pH < 6– excellent in combination with aromatic alcohols or e.g. MIT within pH 5-8


Velsan® SC- properties

amber coloured, medium viscous liquid– INCI: Sorbitan Caprylate– heat stable up to 80 °C– easy to use, easy dosage– no impact on colour of formulation

the green alternative– sustainable being based on renewable resources– readily biodegradable according to OECD 301 B

Ecocert approved– applied for the NaTrue list

O

OHOH

OHO

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Synergism with Aromatic Alcohols


Velsan® SC- synergism with Phenoxyethanol and Benzyl alcohol

MIC data of Velsan® SC in comparison to and combination with Phenoxyethanol and Benzyl Alcohol

combination with Phenoxyethanol or Benzyl Alcohol helps to close the gap against Pseudomonas aeruginosa

the often not wanted/unpleasant odour of Phenoxyethanol is reduced by combining it 1:1 with Velsan® SC leading to an even better performance

Velsan® SC Phenoxyethanol Velsan® SC, Phenoxyethanol

1:1 blend

Benzyl Alcohol Velsan® SC, Benzyl Alcohol

1:1 blend

Pseudomonas aeruginosa

1 0.25 0.25 0.125 0.5

Staphylococcus aureus

0.25 0.125 0.063 0.25 0.032

Candida albicans 0.016 0.032 0.008 0.063 0.008

Aspergillus brasiliensis

0.5 0.5 0.25 0.25 0.5


Challenge Tests

Challenge Tests shown were done in accordance to Ph.Eur. guidelines for topical preparations

Log reduction criteria A, B and F are represented by colour codes

A = B = F =


Velsan® SC- recipe of Challenge Test shampoo AI 8146

basic shampoo formulation with low surfactant concentration added milk protein serves as a nutrient increasing the preservation hurdlerecipe:

Ingredients Weight-%Sodium Laureth Sulfate 13.70Water ad 100 Coco-Betaine 6.00Sodium Chloride 1.40Hydrolyzed Milk Protein 1.00


Velsan® SC- Challenge Test results of test shampoo AI 8146

A = B = F =

Preservative blend Test system Use conc. Efficacy at pH 5.5

Piroctone Olamine shampoo 0.05 %

Piroctone Olamine + Velsan® SC ,, 0.05 % + 1.0 %


Pseudom. aerug.

Staph. aureus

Candida albicans

Asperg. bras.

unpreserved ,, ---


Piroctone Olamine as the sole preservative is not strong enough at this concentration to preserve this formulation

adding Velsan® SC in 0.5 % intervals it helps to improve the test results and to achieve an overall pass of the formulation


Velsan® SC- guide recipe for a mild shampoo BI 1164

Mild EO- and Sulfate-free shampoo

A Hostapon® SG Surfactant 30.00 %Sodium Cocyl Glycinate

Genagen® KB Co-Surfactant 25.00 %Coco-Betaine

Genagen® CME Thickener 1.00 %Cocoamide MEA

Velsan® SC Synergist 2.10 %Sorbitan Caprylate

Water ad 100 %

B Preservative q.s.

Fragrance q.s.

C Citric Acid 25 % 0.70 %

Procedure:

I Mix the components of A while heating to approx. 70°C.

II Cool down to 30°C and add the components of B while stirring.

III Finally adjust the pH with C

Viscosity: 2900 mPas


guide recipe shampoo containing 2.10 % Velsan® SC as sole preservative fails only against Gram-negative bacteria Pseudomonas aeruginosa

addition of Benzyl alcohol or Phenoxyethanol helps to close this gap

overall use concentration of aromatic alcohols well below max. allowed limitno interference with perfume due to lower concentration of aromatic alcohols

Velsan® SC- Challenge Test results of guide recipe BI 1164

A = B = F =


--- guide recipe shampoo ---

Benzyl Alcohol ,, + 0.3 %

,, ,, + 0.6 %

Pseudom. aerug.

Staph. aureus

Candida albicans

Asperg. bras.

,, + 0.6 %

Phenoxyethanol + 0.3 %

,,

,,

Synergism with Organic Acids


Velsan® SC- recipe of Challenge Test cream AVI 1998

leave-on cosmetics are in general more prone to a contamination by fungi as level of water is reduced vs. rinse-off formulations and often the pH is lower

natural based formulations are more challenging to preserverecipe:

Ingredients Weight-% Ingredients Weight-%

Water ad 100 % Simmondsia Chinensis Oil (Jojoba Oil) 1.3 % Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil (Grape seed oil) 6.0 % Lecithin 1.0 %Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride 6.0 % Guar Gum 0.5 %Glycerin 3.0 % Xanthan Gum 0.5 %Cetearyl Alcohol 3.0 % Sodium Citrate ~ 1.0 %Glyceryl Stearate 3.0 % Tocopherol Acetate 0.5 %Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil (Almond oil) 2.5 % Allantoin 0.3 %Cetearyl Glucoside 2.0 % Panthenol 0.3 %Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil 1.5 %(Apricot Kernel Oil)


Velsan® SC- Challenge Test results of test cream AVI 1998

excellent in combination with organic acidsChallenge Test results in hard to preserve cream

helps to preserve the formulation at natural skin pHreduced skin irritation potential if pH is close to skins neutral pH value of pH 4.9

A = B = F =


Benzoic Acid cream 0.4 %

Benzoic Acid + Velsan® SC ,, 0.4 % + 0.5 %

Benzoic Acid + Velsan® SC ,, 0.4 % + 1.0 %

Benzoic Acid + Velsan® SC ,,

Phenoxyethanol + 5 Parabens ,, 0.9 %

Phenoxyethanol + 5 Parabens ,, 1.2 %

Pseudom. aerug.

Staph. aureus

Candida albicans

Asperg. bras.

unpreserved ,,

0.4 % + 1.5 %

---


Challenge Test results of Anisic Acid (p-Methoxybenzoic Acid) in combination with Velsan® SC in hard to preserve test creamas both substances are not listed, “preservative-free” claim is possible

excellent combination of Velsan® SC with natural activesexcellent preservation and still “preservative-free”

Velsan® SC- Challenge Test results of test cream AVI 1998


Anisic Acid cream 0.4 %

Anisic Acid + Velsan® SC ,, 0.4 % + 0.5 %

Anisic Acid + Velsan® SC ,, 0.4 % + 1.0 %

Anisic Acid + Velsan® SC ,,


unpreserved ,, ---

Pseudom. aerug.

Staph. aureus

Candida albicans

Asperg. bras.A = B = F =

0.4 % + 1.5 %

0.4 % + 2.0 %


Daycream with Coenzyme Q 10

A Hostacerin® SFO (Clariant) Emulsifier 2.00 %Sunflower Seed Oil Sorbitol EstersVelsan® CCT (Clariant) Emollient 4.50 %Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideCetiol® OE Dicaprylyl Ether 4.50 %EmollientLanette® 22 Stabilizer 4.00 %Behenyl AlcoholLanette® 18 Stabilizer 4.00 %Stearyl AlcoholFucogel 1000 Skin Conditioning Agent 1.00 %Biosaccharide Gum-1

B Coenzyme Q 10 Active 0.10 %Ubiquinone

C Water ad 100.00 %Glycerin 10.00 %HumectantHostaphat® CK 100 (Clariant) Emulsifier 0.60 %Potassium Cetyl Phosphate

D Velsan® SC (Clariant) Synergist 1.50 %Sorbitan Caprylatep-Anisic Acid 0.40 %Fragrance

E NaOH (10%) q.s.Neutralizer

I Heat mixture of components A to 80°C.

II Heat mixture of components C to 80°C.

III Add B to I.IV Add II to III and stir until cool.V Add D to IV.VI Finally adjust the pH carefully

with E to 5.5.


Challenge Test results for daycream preserved with Anisic Acid and Velsan® SCAlthough at 0.4 % use concentration of Anisic Acid the overall criteria are not changed, there was a further reduction in log scale

Challenge Test results Daycream with Coenzyme Q10


Anisic Acid + Velsan® SC ,, 0.3% + 1.0 %



unpreserved ,, ---

Pseudom. aerug.

Staph. aureus

Candida albicans

Asperg. bras.A = B = F =

0.3 % + 1.5 %

0.4 % + 1.5 %

Comparison to 1,2-Octantediol and Ethylhexylglycerin


Velsan® SC- in comparison to other alternatives

Velsan® SC is comparable to other alternatives found in the marketgap against Pseudomonas aeruginosa can easily be closed by combination with

aromatic alcohols

Velsan® SC 1,2-Octanediol Ethylhexylglycerin

Pseudomonas aeruginosa

1 0.25 0.25

Staphylococcus aureus

0.032 0.125 0.125

Candida albicans 0.2 0.2 0.1

Aspergillus brasiliensis

0.2 0.1 0.1

Summary


Velsan® SC

Velsan® SC

… is a synergistic preservative booster

… works excellent in combination with classical preservatives e.g. aromatic alcohols, organic acids, other actives like Piroctone Olamine

… reduces thinning and odour problems encountered with some actives without decreasing a safe preservation

… is 100 % based on renewable resources

… is approved by Ecocert

… can be used for “preservative-free” cosmetics in combination with non-listed actives

Velsan® SC is the multifunctional, economic synergist

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