INTERNSHIP REPORT

2012

TRAINEE: THULSIRAM REDDY INSTITUTION: VELLORE INSTITUTE OF

TECHNOLOGY CHENNAI

REGISTRATION NO: 10BME1106 DEPARTMENT: MECHANICAL

ENGINEERING

QUALIFICATION: 5TH SEMESTER, B.TECH

TRAINING PERIOD: 1ST - 15TH DECEMBER 2012

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CARNATION

Carnation Auto is an initiative by Mr. Jagdish Khattar, with a vision of developing India’s largest independent multi-brand automobile sales and service network. Carnation is setting up a state-of-the-art network of integrated auto solution hubs across the country to enhance the overall experience of owning a car and to optimize the cost of ownership. Carnation provides complete car care solutions for almost all brands, starting from standard servicing, mechanical repairs, body repairs, accessories, insurance, used car sales/purchase, car exchange, and also doorstep service through a chain of workshop on wheels. Carnation Auto raised its first round of funding of Rs.108Cr from marquee investors PremjiInvest and IFCI Ventures. Recently it received a second round of funding of Rs.85Cr from Gaja Investors for executing the nation-wide rollout of its multi-brand auto solution hubs.

The aim as an industry consolidator is to organize the much fragmented auto solutions market. Through this multi-brand innovation, the company would also like to provide an alternative to the customer if he is not satisfied with his current service provider. All auto related solutions under one roof for all brands, pan India, is also an incredible value to those families having multiple brands and models, corporate, fleet owners and taxi operators.

In an effort to provide total auto care to our customers under one roof,

Carnation has tied-up with leading names in the automobile industry. Tie up with 3M & Gard X are for value added services, Castrol for lubricants, Bridgestone for tyres and Asian PPG & Akzo Nobel for paints. By adopting world-class equipment and IT systems we have been able to implement thorough transparency in the system while enhancing the quality of service in all our processes. Carnation has implemented SAP Dealer Business Management suite in India for the first time with TCS as the technology partner. SAP plays a key role in improving productivity and facilitates real-time access on a single database. It helps in efficient scheduling and utilizing assets more effectively. The technology assists in visibility across locations in India and also manage inventory from site to site.

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WORK PROCEDURE

From the beginning of day one involvement in practical work was compulsory. First half will be observation session and second half will be practical session. Complete work was divided in to different sections like brakes, engine, transmission, engine accessories, steering, and at last servicing of car. In first session there was theoretical session where the interns were told about the recent development of the automotive industry and the existing technology in this sector.

Second session intern will be having hands on experience on various

vehicles that came in the workshop for servicing with the help of an operator.

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CONTENTS

1) Multijet engine…………………………………………………5

2) Multi point fuel injection………………………………….6

3) Changing brake shoes………………………………………12

4) Changing brake fluid………………………………………..13

5) Changing fuel pump…………………………………………14

6) Changing filter………………………………………………….17

7) Changing spark plugs…………………………….………….19

8) Adjusting camber………………….………………………….20

9) Adjusting timing belt……………….……………………….21

10) Changing tie-rod ends……………………………………..22

11) Dent removal…………………………………………………..23

THEORETICAL WORK DONE

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MULTIJET ENGINE

JTD, expanded as uniJet Turbo Diesel, is Fiat Group's abbreviation for its current common rail turbo diesel engine models. The Multijet name is used in the second generation JTD common rail units. Most of the Fiat, Alfa Romeo and Lancia range have JTD engines. Fiat JTD design’s ownership is shared with general motors as a mutual understanding which resulted in their failure of collaboration

A small 1.3 L version is produced in Bielsko-Biala, Poland and in

Ranjangaon, Pune, India by Fiat India Auto. The Multijet 75 PS version was chosen in 2005 as the International Engine of the Year in the 1-litre to 1.4-litre category.

There are four versions of this engine: a 70 PS (51 kW; 69 hp), a 75 PS (55

kW; 74 hp), a variable inlet geometry 90 PS (66 kW; 89 hp) and a 105 PS (77 kW; 104 hp). At the time of the launch this was the smallest four-cylinder diesel engine available and has a fuel consumption of 3.3 L/100 km in some applications. The engine is able to meet Euro IV pollution standards without the use of a diesel particulate filter.

In January 2008 Tata Motors introduced new Indica Vista model, which

came with a new QuadraJet version of this engine. The second generation Ford Ka uses 1.3 Multijet named as Duratorq TDCi.

During 2009 Fiat launched a new generation named Multijet 2, with a new

injection management system (up to 8 injections per cycle, instead of 5) and able to meet Euro V pollution standards. It is available with several power outputs: from 75 PS (55 kW; 74 hp), with fixed geometry turbocharger, to 95 PS (70 kW; 94 hp), with variable geometry turbocharger.

The engine is called Small Diesel Engine in GM nomenclature.

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MULTI POINT FUEL INJECTION DESCRIPTION

The Multi-Point Electronic Fuel Injection (EFI) system is an electronically

controlled system which combines electronic sequential fuel injection and

electronic spark advance systems. Main sub-systems consist of: air induction, fuel

delivery, fuel control, emission control, Electronic Control Unit (ECU), data

sensors and switches. Air induction system includes air cleaner, throttle body,

Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) and the Idle Speed Stepper (ISS) motor. Fuel

delivery system provides fuel from fuel pump to the fuel control system. Fuel

system is composed of an in-tank electric fuel pump, fuel filter and return line.

Power is provided to operate fuel pump through a fuel pump relay located on

right inner fender panel. Fuel control system handles actual fuel delivery into the

engine. Fuel pressure regulator maintains a constant fuel pressure of 31-39 psi

(2.1-2.7 kg/cm). In addition to the regulator, fuel system consists of the fuel rail

and 4 fuel injectors. On MPI engine, ECU controls EGR/EVAP solenoid operation.

The ECU is a digital microprocessor computer. ECU receives input signals from

various switches and sensors. ECU then computes fuel injector pulse width ("on"

time), spark advance, ignition module dwell, idle speed, canister purge cycles,

EGR flow and feedback control from this information.

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OPERATION

AIR INDUCTION

Air is drawn into combustion chamber through air cleaner and intake manifold. Amount of air entering engine is controlled by position of throttle body valve. Throttle body houses throttle position sensor (TPS) and idle speed solenoid (ISS) motor. TPS is an electrical resistor which is connected to throttle valve. TPS transmits a signal to ECU in relation to throttle valve angle. This signal is used in calculations to determine injector pulse width to provide adequate air/fuel mixture. ECU controls idle speed by providing appropriate voltage outputs to move ISS motor pin inward or outward to maintain a predetermined idle speed. ECU continuously monitors TPS and ISS motor and issues change commands to injectors to increase or decrease amount of fuel injected.

FUEL DELIVERY

Power to fuel pump relay is supplied from ignition switch when in "ON" or "START" position, at which time the ECU supplies a ground for fuel pump relay. When relay contacts are closed, power is applied to fuel pump. Fuel is drawn through one end of a roller-type electric fuel pump, compressed and forced out opposite end. Pump capacity is greater than maximum engine consumption so that pressure in fuel system is always maintained.

FUEL CONTROL

Fuel control system handles actual delivery of fuel to engine. Fuel from fuel

pump enters fuel rail, injectors and pressure regulator. Based upon a manifold vacuum signal, pressure regulator maintains a constant fuel pressure in fuel system of approximately 31-39 psi (2.1-2.7 kg/cm) by allowing excess fuel to return to fuel tank. Fuel injectors are electrically operated solenoid valves which are energized by the ECU. The ECU determines injector pulse width ("on" time) based upon input from the various sensors.

EMISSION CONTROL ECU controls EGR valve and fuel evaporative operation. By energizing the EGR/EVAP solenoid, vacuum is shut off, making this system non-operative. When engine reaches normal operating temperatures, ECU de-energizes solenoid.

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When de-energized, solenoid allows vacuum to flow to EGR valve. ECU will energize solenoid whenever EGR action is undesirable, during idle, cold engine operation, wide open throttle and rapid acceleration or deceleration. ELECTRONIC CONTROL UNIT (ECU). ECU is a digital microprocessor computer. Data sensors provide the ECU with engine operating information in varying electrical signals. ECU calculates this information and corrects air/fuel ratio, ignition timing, and emission control as needed to maintain efficient engine operation. Other ECU output signals control upshift indicator light (manual transmission only), ignition module dwell and A/C clutch operation.

UPSHIFT INDICATOR On vehicles equipped with a manual transmission, ECU controls upshift indicator light. Indicator light is normally illuminated when ignition is turned on without engine running. Indicator light is turned off when engine is started. Indicator light will be illuminated during engine operation in response to engine load and speed. If transmission is not shifted, ECU will turn light off after 3 to 5 seconds. A switch located on transmission prevents indicator light from being illuminated when transmission is shifted to highest gear.

SENSORS

The engine of a car has to perform efficiently in order to produce low emissions and give maximum possible mileage. In other words, an engine has to work with optimum performance. According to the driver’s desire the engine can be tuned towards maximum power output or minimum fuel consumption. Tuning is a process of conditioning the engine’s performance by controlling and adjusting various parameters like airflow rate, fuel flow rate, throttle position, etc.

The tuning process can be manually done or can be automated through a processing unit called ELECTRONIC CONTROL UNIT. In India, huge percentage of car users prefer economy on fuel so the cars come with a pre-programmed ECU which condition’s the engine towards maximum Economy and this ECU cannot be re-programmed. In order to shift the engine’s performance towards power, the ECU has to be removed and the tuning has to be done manually. Removal of the ECU may reduce the engine’s life as it maintains the engine according to the design.

The ECU controls and adjusts the parameters by receiving feedback info from sensors fitted into different subassemblies of the engine. Feedback can be

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taken from the coolant system, exhaust system, airflow system, fuel flow system, etc. The most important sensors are listed below.

1) Throttle Position Sensor:

A throttle position sensor (TPS) is a sensor used to monitor the position of

the throttle in an internal combustion engine.

The sensor is usually located on the butterfly spindle so that it can

directly monitor the position of the throttle. Related to the TPS are accelerator

pedal sensors, which often include a wide open throttle (WOT) sensor. The

accelerator pedal sensors are used in “drive by wire" systems, and the most

common use of a wide open throttle sensor is for the kick-down function

on automatic transmissions.

Modern day sensors are non contact type, wherein a magnet and a Hall

effect sensor are used. In the potentiometer type sensors, two metal parts are in

contact with each other, while the butterfly valve is turned from zero to WOT,

there is a change in the resistance and this change in resistance is given as the

input to the ECU.

2) Mass Airflow Sensor:

A mass air flow sensor is used to find out the mass flow rate of air entering a fuel-injected internal combustion engine. The air mass information is necessary for the ELECTRONIC CONTROL UNIT to balance and deliver the correct fuel mass to the engine. Air changes its density as it expands and contracts with temperature and pressure. In automotive applications, air density varies with the ambient temperature, altitude and the use of forced induction, which means that mass flow sensors are more appropriate than volumetric flow sensors for determining the quantity of intake air in each piston stroke.

There are two common types of mass airflow sensors in use on automotive engines. These are the vane meter and the hot wire. Neither design employs technology that measures air mass directly. However, with additional sensors and inputs, an ELECTRONIC CONTROL UNIT can determine the mass flow rate of intake air.

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Both approaches are used almost exclusively on electronic fuel injection (EFI) engines. Both sensor designs output a 0.0–5.0 volt or a pulse-width modulation (PWM) signal that is proportional to the air mass flow rate, and both sensors have an intake air temperature (IAT) sensor incorporated into their housings.

When a MAF is used in conjunction with an oxygen sensor, the engine's air/fuel ratio can be controlled very accurately.

3) Oxygen Sensor:

An oxygen sensor is an electronic device that measures the proportion of oxygen in the gas or liquid being analyzed.

The original sensing element is made with a thimble-shaped zirconium ceramic coated on both the exhaust and reference sides with a thin layer of platinum and comes in both heated and unheated forms. The planar-style sensor entered the market in 1998 and significantly reduced the mass of the ceramic sensing element as well as incorporating the heater within the ceramic structure. This resulted in a sensor that started sooner and responded faster.

The most common application is to measure the exhaust gas concentration of oxygen for internal combustion engines in automobiles and other vehicles. Divers also use a similar device to measure the partial pressure of oxygen in their breathing gas.

4) Nitrogen Oxide Sensor:

A nitrogen oxide sensor or NOx sensor is typically a high temperature device built to detect nitrogen oxides in combustion environments such as an automobile or truck tailpipe or a smokestack.

5) Exhaust Gas Temperature Gauge:

An exhaust gas temperature gauge (EGT gauge) is an automotive meter used to monitor the exhaust gas temperature of an internal combustion engine or rotary engine in conjunction with a thermocouple-type pyrometer. By monitoring EGT, the driver can get an idea of the car's air-fuel ratio.

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At a stoichiometric air-fuel ratio, the exhaust gas temperature is different than that in a lean or rich air-fuel ratio. At rich air-fuel ratio, the exhaust gas temperature decreases due to the cooling effect of the fuel. High temperatures (typically above 1600 degrees F) can be an indicator of dangerous conditions that can lead to catastrophic engine failure.

6) Coolant Temperature Sensor:

The coolant temperature sensor is used to measure the temperature of the engine coolant of an internal combustion engine. The readings from this sensor are then fed back to the Engine control unit (ECU). This data from the sensor is then used to adjust the fuel injection and ignition timing. On some vehicles the sensor may be used to switch on the electronic cooling fan. The data may also be used to provide readings for a coolant temperature gauge on the dash. The coolant temperature sensor works using resistance. As temperature subjected to the sensor increases the internal resistance changes. Depending on the type of sensor the resistance will either increase or decrease.

7) Crankshaft Position Sensor:

A crank position sensor is an electronic device used in an internal combustion engine to monitor the position or rotational speed of the crankshaft. This information is used by engine management systems to control ignition system timing and other engine parameters. Before electronic crank sensors were available, the distributor would have to be manually adjusted to a timing mark on the engine.

8) Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor:

The manifold absolute pressure sensor (MAP sensor) is one of the sensors used in an internal combustion ELECTRONIC CONTROL UNIT.

Engines that use a MAP sensor are typically fuel injected. The manifold absolute pressure sensor provides instantaneous manifold pressure information to the ELECTRONIC CONTROL UNIT (ECU). The data is used to calculate air density and determine the engine's air mass flow rate, which in turn determines the required fuel metering for optimum combustion and influence the advance or retard of ignition timing. A fuel-injected engine may alternately use a mass airflow sensor to detect the intake airflow. A typical configuration employs one or the other, but seldom both.

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PRACTICAL WORK DONE

After the morning theory session the interns were given hands on practical session where each day the interns did various work like changing brake shoe, cleaning air filter, changing the brake oil etc.

CHANGING THE BRAKE SHOES

Most of the cars have disc brake in front and drum brakes back. But some of them like Cruise have disc brakes in both front and back tyres. To do that we have to remove entire brake assembly the steps to so are as follows:

Raise the car with the floor jack, and remove a wheel by turning the lug wrench in a counter clockwise direction. Set the wheel aside, away from the car.

Remove the caliper by turning the rear mount bolts in a counter clockwise direction, then slide the caliper and pads off of the rotor. Take the pads from the caliper, and then set the caliper on the upper control arm. Do not let the caliper dangle from the brake lines.

Remove the rotor by firmly pulling it from the hub. Replace with a fresh rotor, or resurface the existing unit, then press the rotor into place over the hub.

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Replace the brake pads with new units by pressing them onto the caliper pistons. Slide the caliper over the rotor, and then secure the mount bolts by turning them clockwise. Some callipers may be difficult to compress once expanded, but removal of the master cylinder cap will lower the pressure in the system enough to press them into place.

Replace the wheel by turning the lock nuts clockwise, in an alternating pattern; then lower the car from the floor jack.

(Wheel removed.) Remove the drum keeper screw by turning it counter clockwise. The keeper screw is on the front of the drum, a bit off-centre from the hub. Once free, the drum can be pulled off over the shoes.

Replace the shoes by relieving the long springs from the hooks on each shoe, and then turn the centre spring bolt in a counter clockwise direction. The new shoe is held in place with the spring bolt, and then reattached to the long springs via the shoes hooks. Replace the new or refinished drum by sliding it over the shoes and turning the keeper screw clockwise.

Replace the wheel, if applicable, and lower the car from the floor jack.

CHANGING BRAKE FLUID Flush the Brake Lines

Remove the brake fluid reservoir cap. Drain any brake fluid from the master cylinder and brake reservoir using a turkey baster. Fill the reservoir to the full-line once empty with DOT-3 brake fluid.

Raise the entire vehicle off the ground one wheel at a time using a jack. Place jack stands under the axle of each wheel after you have raised the wheel and remove the jack. Remove the lug nuts using a lug wrench and set the lug nuts and tires to the side.

Loosen all four bleed screws. Disc brake bleed screws are located on the caliper facing the engine. Drum brake bleed screws are located on the back of the drum above the axle.

Have an assistant press down on the brake pedal and hold the pedal down. Tighten all four bleed screws and have the assistant release the pedal. Repeat this process until clean brake fluid is coming out of the bleed screws. Keep the reservoir full at all times during the process.

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Bleed the Brakes

Bleed the passenger rear brake. Starting at the front just moves the air bubbles around without removing them, so start with the passenger rear and then move to the driver rear, then the passenger front and finally the driver front to ensure all air bubbles are forced out.

Place one end of the rubber tubing onto the bleed screw and the other end in the clear plastic bottle partially filled with DOT-3 brake fluid. Make sure the end in the bottle is submerged.

Have the assistant press the brake pedal and hold. Loosen the bleed screw and monitor the flow into the bottle. When the fluid or bubbles stop flowing, tighten the bleed screw and release the pedal. Repeat the process until you witness no air bubbles escaping the rubber tube for three turns. Monitor the reservoir to make sure it does not drop below half-full at any point during the process.

Repeat Steps 2 and 3 for the other three tires as outlined in Step 1.

Replace the wheels and lug nuts and tighten. Raise each wheel one at a time using the jack and remove the jack stands before fully lowering the vehicle to the ground. Tighten all the lug nuts with the lug wrench once the vehicle is completely on the ground. Top off the brake fluid reservoir and replace the cap.

REPLACING FUEL PUMP Fuel Tank Removal

Kick wheel chocks in front of the front tires. Lift the rear of the car with a floor jack and slide jack stands under the rear suspension cross member. Lower the vehicle onto the jack stands.

Find the fuel pump wiring harness on the upper, front part of the fuel tank. Unplug the wiring harness. Unscrew the gas cap from the vehicle to relieve the tank pressure. Start the Malibu’s engine and allow it to idle until it stalls. Crank the vehicle for an additional three seconds to relieve any residual pressure.

Connect a memory saver to the vehicle, using the memory saver’s instructions as your guide. Loosen the negative battery cable with a combination wrench and pull it from the battery. Set the cable aside to prevent inadvertent reconnection.

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Insert a fuel siphon with a semi-rigid siphon hose into the fuel filler hose. Feed the siphon hose downward until you feel it contact the bottom of the fuel tank. Place the siphon’s drain hose into a 5-gallon fuel storage tank. Siphon the fuel from the tank, using the siphon’s pump. When the fuel storage container fills, release the vacuum from the siphon and transfer the drain hose to a new container, then restart this step.

Remove the siphon from the fuel filler hose once you cannot siphon any more fuel from the tank. Crawl under the vehicle. Unplug the evaporative emissions vent valve solenoid’s wiring harness, which you can find on the rear, driver’s side of the fuel tank. If the vehicle has rear antilock brakes, pull the ABS wiring harness from the side of the evaporative emissions canister on the driver’s side of the fuel tank.

Move to the passenger’s side of the vehicle and find the fuel-and-brake line bundle. Squeeze the plastic ears on the quick connect fitting on each fuel pump line and pull each line away from the pump-to-engine lines. Wrap a thick shop cloth around the now open ends of the tank-to-engine fuel lines.

Loosen the hose clamp securing the rubber end of the fuel filler hose to the fuel tank, using a ratchet and socket. Pull the fuel filler hose from the tank with a slight twisting motion. Pull the vapor recirculation line -- the rubber hose that runs along the fuel filler hose – from its inlet on the fuel tank.

Position a jack stand under the muffler. Press all of the underbody rubber exhaust hangers from the exhaust system. Lower the exhaust until the muffler rests out of the fuel tank’s way, on the jack stand.

Instruct an assistant to hold upward pressure on the fuel tank to prevent it from falling. Remove the bolts securing the left side fuel tank straps, using a ratchet and socket, then the right side straps.

Lower the passenger’s side of the fuel tank first, with the aid of an assistant, to clear the exhaust system. Allow the tank to clear the passenger’s side frame rail, then move the tank toward the front, passenger’s side of the vehicle as you lower it from the vehicle. Pull the tank from under the vehicle.

Fuel Pump Removal

Unplug the wiring harness and disconnect the ventilation hose from the fuel pump.

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Turn the fuel pump’s locking ring counter clockwise with a ratchet while assistant holds the tank from spinning. Don’t be alarmed if the fuel pump module jumps upward slightly when you remove the ring, this is normal.

Lift the fuel pump module just enough to access the fuel tank ventilation connector on the underside of the fuel pump’s upper plate. Squeeze the ears on the quick disconnect fitting and unplug the ventilation connector. Remove the fuel pump assembly from the tank.

Pull the old O-ring off the fuel pump’s mounting hole on the tank, using a flat-head screwdriver.

Fuel Pump Installation

Install a new O-ring, which comes with the new pump, onto the fuel

pump’s mounting hole in the tank.

Guide the fuel pump module into the tank and before completely seating it, connect the fuel tank’s ventilation hose to the underside of the pump’s upper plate. Press the ventilation tube upward until its quick-connect fitting snaps into place. Lower the fuel pump module into the tank. Press downward on the fuel pump to until the modules upper panel is flush with the top of the tank. Sit the locking ring over the fuel pump, so its tabs align with the notches in the tank. Rotate the locking ring clockwise until it seats on its second stop – you will feel it click twice, the second click is its second stop.

Connect the wiring harness to the fuel pump and plug the ventilation hose to its outlet on top of the fuel pump.

Fuel Tank Installation

Slide the tank under the vehicle and with the aid of an assistant, lift the driver’s side of the tanks over the exhaust. Lift the passenger’s side of the tank upward, so it is just inside of the right side frame rail. Verify that you did not pinch the fuel pump wiring harness or fuel feed lines.

Instruct the assistant to hold the tank in place as you install the tank straps and hand-tighten their retaining bolts. Tighten the strap bolts to 15 foot-pounds, using a torque wrench and socket.

Tell your assistant to lift and hold the exhaust system, as you press the rubber hangers back onto their respective exhaust arms.

Connect the fuel pump’s main power wiring harness to the Malibu’s wiring harness

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Press the fuel filler hose onto the inlet on the fuel tank and tighten its hose clamp to 35 inch-pounds, using an inch-pound torque wrench and socket. Press the vapor recirculation line into its inlet on the fuel tank.

Remove the shop cloths from the fuel pump-to-engine lines and press them into their respective fuel pump lines until you hear the quick connector snap into place.

Plug the evaporative emissions vent valve solenoid’s wiring harness tot eh Malibu’s wiring and press the ABS wiring harness back into place on the evaporative emissions canister, if applicable.

Raise the vehicle off the jack stands and remove the jack stands. Lower the Malibu to the ground. Reconnect the negative battery cable to the battery and tighten its retaining bolt to 13 foot-pounds.

CHANGING FILTER

Drive the front wheels onto the ramps. Shift into park and apply the parking brake. Brace the left rear tire with two wheel chocks to prevent the Malibu from rolling off the ramps.

Open the Malibu's hood. With the engine still running, open the power distribution relay box directly in front of the driver's seat against the firewall. Pull the fuel pump relay -- the only relay in the second row from the left of the box -- and wait for the engine to stall.

Remove the key from the car’s ignition. Centre the drain pan directly beneath the fuel filter, located on the front side of the gas tank in the fuel line. Put your safety glasses on to avoid getting any fuel in your eyes when releasing the fuel lines.

Hold the nut on the front of the fuel filter in place with one 13 mm box wrench while slowly loosening the mated fuel line nut with the other wrench. Unclip the rear fuel line from the filter manually and allow any built up fuel to drain into the drain pan.

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Pull both fuel lines off the fuel filter. Pull the fuel filter out of the retaining band and place it in the drain pan. Remove the old O-rings from the fuel line ends and replace them with new O-rings supplied with your new filter -- never reuse the O-rings as they can leak once the system is pressurized and cause a hazardous situation.

Slide the new filter into the retaining band, with the fuel flow arrow directed at the engine. Snap the inlet line into the rear of the filter.

Thread the outlet fuel line onto the new filter and thread the nut into place by hand. Tighten the nut with the box wrenches.

Reinstall the fuel pump relay and close the power distribution relay box. Turn the ignition key to the run position and count to ten before starting the Malibu. Look underneath and make sure there are no fuel leaks from the filter.

Remove the wheel chocks and carefully back the Malibu off the ramps.

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CHANGING SPARK PLUGS Open the hood and find the fuse block mounted to the driver’s side fender.

Open the fuse block and find the cluster of fuses in the centre of the block. The airbag fuse is in the fourth column of fuses from the passenger’s side, and it is the seventh fuse from the rear of the block. Remove the airbag fuse from the under-hood fuse block.

Look under the driver’s side of the dashboard and find the yellow electrical connector just above the brake pedal’s stalk. Unfasten the plastic connector securing the yellow harness to its receptacle. Unplug the yellow connector from its receptacle to disable the air bag.

Reach under the passenger’s side seat and unplug the wiring harness plugged into the seat’s electric motor, if equipped with power seats. Remove the four nuts securing the passenger’s seat to the floorboards, using a ratchet and socket, and pull the seat from the van.

The door on the instrument panel extension – the cup holder and center storage component on the center of the dashboard – as far as it will go, if your Express has this extension, and find the four screws securing the front-most part of the extension to the dashboard. Remove these screws with a ratchet, socket and 6-inch extension.

Pull the instrument panel extension from the vehicle, if applicable.

Remove the two bolts on the lower, front-most part of the driver’s side knee bolster, the trim panel nearest your knees while driving, using a ratchet and socket. Pull the bolster rearward to disengage its retaining tabs, and then remove it from the vehicle. Repeat this step on the passenger’s side knee bolster to remove it.

Find the engine cover – some people call it a doghouse cover – under the centre of the dashboard. Open the eight clasps securing the cover in place and pull the cover from the vehicle, exposing the engine.

Look through the opening where the engine cover was installed and find the six spark plug wires. Find the thick rubber boot on the end of the front, driver’s side spark plug wire. Rotate this boot a half turn, and then pull the boot from the spark plug.

Remove the exposed spark plug from the engine using a ratchet and spark plug socket. Thread a new spark plug into the engine by hand and feel for any resistance as you tighten the plug. If you feel resistance, immediately remove

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the spark plug and thread it again. Tighten the spark plug to 11 foot-pounds with a torque wrench and spark plug socket.

Inspect the removed spark plug wire for any defects, including: brittleness, burns, cracking, splitting and other signs of excessive age. Replace all of the wires one by one if defects exist. Pay close attention to the way each wire is routed as you remove it, as you must route the wires in the same manner.

Place a dab of dielectric grease inside the end of the spark plug wire and press it onto the top of the new spark plug until it clicks into place.

Repeat steps 9 through 12 to replace the remaining five spark plugs on the engine, moving counter clockwise.

Set the engine cover back into place under the centre of the dashboard and align its clasps with their hooks. Latch the clasps shut to secure the engine cover.

Guide the left knee bolster into place under the dash, aligning its retaining clips with the slots under the dashboard. Press the bolster toward the front of the vehicle to lock its retaining clips into place, then tighten its two retaining bolts to 31 inch-pounds with an inch-pound torque wrench and socket. Install the right side knee bolster by repeating this step.

Install the instrument panel extension back into place under the centre of the dashboard and tighten its retaining screws to 89 inch-pounds. Close the extension’s storage compartment door.

Set the passenger’s side seat back into place on its retaining studs and tighten its retaining nuts to 44 foot-pounds, using a torque wrench and socket. Plug the wiring harness back into the seat’s wiring harness.

Plug the airbag connector back into its receptacle under the driver’s side of the dashboard and latch its connector to protect the connection. Press the airbag fuse back into its slot in the under-hood fuse block and close the block’s lid. Close the hood.

ADJUSTING CAMBER A Level Surface

Park your car on your intended work surface. Mark where all four tires are and remove your car. Place a linoleum tile at each location.

Park your car back on top of the tiles and use the alignment tool to measure the height of each individual tire. Back the car out and add tiles to raise the

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wheels that need it. Each tile is roughly 1/8 inch. Repeat this process until the tires are all level with each other.

Back the car out one last time and spread table salt between all of the tiles. This will allow the tiles to slip and slide as you make adjustments.

Adjusting Camber

Have a professional shop install your aftermarket camber-adjustment kit. This saves you the hassle of having to undo suspension components but also ensures that the kit is on correctly.

Park your car on your now-levelled garage surface. Bounce the suspension a couple of times to settle it.

Place the alignment tool against each tire and make adjustments by turning the bolts on the camber kit. Make these adjustments slowly and in small increments, rotating from tire to tire after each small adjustment.

ADJUSTING TIMING BELT Disconnect the negative battery cable

using a wrench. Isolate the negative cable far enough so it does not make accidental contact with the negative terminal.

Loosen the lug nuts on the right front wheel with the lug wrench. Do not remove them. Raise the front of the vehicle with the floor jack. Support the vehicle with jack stands. Continue removing the wheel with the lug wrench. Disconnect the intake air temperature sensor wiring. Remove the breather hose by loosening the clamp with a flat-head screwdriver. Loosen the clamp on the air intake hose with a flat-head screwdriver. Remove the air intake hose.

Unclip the air cleaner housing cover. Lift the air filter out of the housing. Remove the housing with a socket and ratchet. Remove the right front fender inner splashguard with a socket and ratchet. Check the radiator support or the underside of the hood for the accessory drive belt routing diagram. If it is missing, sketch the belt routing. Loosen the lower bolt on the alternator and the upper adjusting bolt with a socket and ratchet. Rotate the alternator until tension on the belt is released. Lift the belt off the pulleys.

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Remove the crankshaft pulley bolt using a socket and ratchet. Slide the crankshaft pulley off the snout of the crankshaft. Remove the upper and lower timing belt covers using a socket and ratchet. Remove the power steering pump retaining bolts. Set the power steering pump out of the way. Do not disconnect the hoses.

Reinstall the crankshaft pulley bolt. Turn the crankshaft clockwise until the timing mark on the crankshaft sprocket lines up with the mark at 6 o’clock. Check the camshaft timing marks. As you are looking down at the engine, the left camshaft timing mark is at the 3 o’clock position and the right camshaft timing mark is at 9 o’clock. If the marks are not lined up, turn the crankshaft one full revolution until the crankshaft timing marks line up again.

Loosen the water pump retaining bolts slightly. To release the timing belt tension, turn the water pump counter clockwise with the water pump wrench. Snug the water pump retaining bolts. Remove the timing belt. Check that the timing marks are still lined up.

Maximum work in summer training is done in areas which are explained above.

And for some days working in spare parts department is compulsory for identifying different parts and their buying and selling procedures and to know about their specification.

CHANGING TIE-ROD ENDS

Loosen lugnuts, then raise and support the vehicle.

Remove the wheel.

Remove the tie rod end retaining nut. The tie rod end terminates in a ball-jointed post inserted in a hole in the steering knuckle. The nut on the end of this post--not the nut on the tie rod--is what is to be removed.

Using a lever press ball joint lifter or a "pickle fork" and hammer, separate the outer tie tod end from the steering knuckle. If you use the lever press, take care to keep your hands away from the area above the knuckle, as the tie rod end can pop out violently.

Back the outer tie rod end stop nut away from the outer tie rod end a few turns, keeping track of the number of turns.

Locate the flat area of the tie rod. Hold the tie rod in place by placing this flat area in an open-ended wrench, and twist the outer tie rod end off. If the tie rod end is stuck, place it partway back into the steering kunckle and loosen it by turning the tie rod a quarter turn clockwise.

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Turn the outer tie rod end stop nut back to its original position.

Twist the new outer tie rod end back onto the tie rod until it hits the stop nut.

Insert the post on the tie rod end to the corresponding hole in the steering knuckle. Thread the tie rod end retaining nut onto the post and tighten. If this is not a locking nut, apply a bit of Loctite or similar thread locking compound.

Replace the wheel, lower the vehicle, tighten the lugnuts, and repeat on the other side.

Perform an alignment or take the vehicle to a shop to be aligned. If you kept track of the number of turns and your new outer tie rod end is similar in dimensions to the old one, your alignment will be close, but whenever replacing a worn part, it will be a bit different.

DENT REMOVAL

Dent removal on the bodies is the most frequently seen job in the workstation. Dents are basically deformation of the structure from the original shape from impact. Dents are removed because the car’s aesthetics is downgraded with their unpleasant appearance. A simple technique is used to remove dents which is based on PULL BACK method.

The dent area is first cleaned with cleanser oil.

The body paint at that portion is removed by applying body turpentine.

The portion is then cleaned once again in order to remove any paint particle deposits.

A special machine called DENT MASTER is used to remove the dents. It is basically a high voltage circuit machine.

The machine consists of a gun, a negative clamp and a transformer. The clamp is fixed to the body and the gun is used to remove the dent by pull back action.

When the gun is brought close to the dent area it is attracted and gets stuck on to the surface because the circuit tends to close with a high voltage of 200 V. it acts like a powerful magnet.

The circuit is kept closed and the gun is pulled back. With this action it pulls the deformed portion back to its original shape as it is stuck with the gun.

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Usually this action is done at multiple points on the dent surface. It is not a single go process.

Some deeper dents are removed by sticking pull pins on various points on the dent. The pins are stuck the same way the gun is made to stick. After this, a clamp rod is inserted into the head holes of the pins and pulled out.

After the dents are removed, the surface is smoothened with emery paper and spray painted.

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CONCLUSION

Carnation’s management system focuses on continuous improvement and up gradation with state of art technologies and improving the work environment. The internship was organized by Carnation in its Guindy centre. The purpose of the internship was to get industrial exposure and to gain technical as well as practical knowledge in our engineering career.

Students can learn a lot from different books but without practical experience the knowledge gained is incomplete. This internship helped me learn a lot about how a vehicle runs. I am grateful to Carnation Ltd. for organising this vocational training.

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ACKNOWLEDGEMENT I must profusely thank Carnation for providing me an excellent opportunity to clear my academic exercise.

I would also like to convey my sincere gratitude to Mr. Kumaran of

Carnation for accepting me as a trainee and providing a broad overview of Carnation.

I would also like to thank Mr. R.Padmanabhan providing me with this

internship. Lastly I would like to thank the entire staff at Carnation especially Mr .Keshvan, Guindy for their support. It has been a privilege to have them by my side throughout the training period from 1.12.2012 to 15.12.2012. Their tireless guidance, whole hearted support and affectionate behaviour have led me to successful completion of this internship.

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BIBLIOGRAPHY

1) Internal combustion engine by V. Ganesan

2) Wikipedia

3) Carnation Manual

4) Website of Carnation

5) Business today website