bali, lombok & nusa tenggara 17 - preview (chapter)...& nusa tenggara virginia maxwell, mark...

Bali, Lombok& Nusa Tenggara

Virginia Maxwell, Mark Johanson, Sofia Levin, MaSovaida Morgan

Kuta &Southwest

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North Balip253 Central

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East Balip203

Gili Islandsp312

Lombokp283

West Balip274

South Bali &the Islands

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UbudRegion

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©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Welcome to Bali, Lombok & Nusa Tenggara . . . . . . . . 4Bali, Lombok & Nusa Tenggara Map . . . . . . .6Bali, Lombok & Nusa Tenggara’s Top 18 . . . . . . . . .8Need to Know . . . . . . . . . . .18First Time Bali, Lombok & Nusa Tenggara . . . . . . . 20What’s New . . . . . . . . . . . . 22If You Like… . . . . . . . . . . . 23Month by Month . . . . . . . . 25Itineraries . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28Activities . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36Travel with Children . . . . . 50Eat & Drink Like a Local . . .53Regions at a Glance . . . . . 60

KUTA & SOUTHWEST BEACHES . . . . . . . . . . 64Kuta & Legian . . . . . . . . . . . 66Seminyak . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .81Kerobokan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 92Umalas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 98Canggu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 98Echo Beach . . . . . . . . . . . . 104Pererenan Beach . . . . . . . 106

SOUTH BALI & THE ISLANDS . . . . . .115Denpasar . . . . . . . . . . . . . 117Sanur . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .124Bukit Peninsula . . . . . . .132Jimbaran . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 132Central Bukit . . . . . . . . . . . 135Balangan Beach . . . . . . . . 136Bingin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .137Padang Padang . . . . . . . . 139Ulu Watu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 141Ungasan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 143Nusa Dua . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 144Tanjung Benoa . . . . . . . . . .147Nusa Lembongan & Islands . . . . . . . . . . . . .149Nusa Lembongan . . . . . . . 150Nusa Ceningan . . . . . . . . . 156Nusa Penida . . . . . . . . . . . .157

UBUD REGION . . . . 160Ubud . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .162Bedulu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .195North of Ubud . . . . . . . . .196Sebatu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .197Tegallalang . . . . . . . . . . . . .197Tampaksiring . . . . . . . . . . . .197South of Ubud . . . . . . . . .198Mas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 199Blahbatuh . . . . . . . . . . . . . 200Batuan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 201Sukawati . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 201

Batubulan . . . . . . . . . . . . . 202Abiansemal . . . . . . . . . . . . 202

EAST BALI . . . . . . . . 203Gianyar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 206Klungkung (Semarapura) . . . . . . . . . . 206Bangli . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 208Sideman . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 209Gunung Agung . . . . . . . . . .211Coast Road to Kusamba . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 213Kusamba . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 215Padangbai . . . . . . . . . . . . . 216Manggis . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 219Candidasa . . . . . . . . . . . . . 220Amlapura . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 224Tirta Gangga . . . . . . . . . . . 225Amed & the Far East Coast . . . . . . . . . . 227Tulamben . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 234Northeast Coast . . . . . . . . 236

CENTRAL MOUNTAINS . . . . . . 237Gunung Batur Area . . . 239Gunung Batur . . . . . . . . . . 239Around Gunung Batur Crater . . . . . . . . . . . 240Danau Batur . . . . . . . . . . . 241Danau Bratan Area . . . . 243Bedugul . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 245Candikuning . . . . . . . . . . . 245Danau Buyan & Danau Tamblingan . . . . . . 247Munduk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 248Gunung Batukau Area . . . . . . . . . 250The Antosari Road . . . . .251

NORTH BALI . . . . . . 253Yeh Sanih . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 255Singaraja . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 255Lovina . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 258

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Contents

Seririt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 266Pemuteran . . . . . . . . . . . . . 266Banyuwedang . . . . . . . . . . .271Labuhan Lalang . . . . . . . . .271Bali Barat National Park . . . . . . . . . . .271

WEST BALI . . . . . . . . 274Cemagi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 276Tabanan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 276South of Tabanan . . . . . . . 277North of Tabanan . . . . . . . 278Balian Beach . . . . . . . . . . . 278Jembrana Coast . . . . . . . . 280Palasari & Belimbingsari . . . . . . . . . . 282Gilimanuk . . . . . . . . . . . . . 282

LOMBOK . . . . . . . . . 283West Lombok . . . . . . . . . 287Mataram . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 288Senggigi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 291Southwestern Peninsula . . . . . . . . . . . . 296Tanjung Desert . . . . . . . . . 296Gili Gede & the Southwest Gilis . . . . . . . . . 297North & Central Lombok . . . . . . 298Gunung Rinjani . . . . . . . . . 299Sire . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 300Northwest Coast . . . . . . . 300Senaru . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 301Sembalun Valley . . . . . . . . 301Tetebatu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 302South Lombok . . . . . . . . 304Kuta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 304Gerupuk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 309Ekas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 310Selong Blanak . . . . . . . . . . 310

GILI ISLANDS . . . . . 312Gili Trawangan . . . . . . . . .316Gili Meno . . . . . . . . . . . . 325Gili Air . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 329

NUSA TENGGARA . . . . . . . 334Sumbawa . . . . . . . . . . . . 336Jelenga . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 337Maluk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 337Rantung Beach & Around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 338Sumbawa Besar . . . . . . . . 339Pulau Moyo . . . . . . . . . . . . 340Gunung Tambora . . . . . . . 341Pantai Lakey . . . . . . . . . . . 342Sape . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 344Komodo & Rinca Islands . . . . . . . . . 344Flores . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 348Labuan Bajo . . . . . . . . . . . 349Ruteng . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 357Wae Rebo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 358Bajawa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 359Riung . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 362Ende . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 363Kelimutu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 365Moni . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 365Paga . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 367Maumere . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 368Waiara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 369Wodong . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 369Alor Archipelago . . . . . . .372Kalabahi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 373West Timor . . . . . . . . . . .374Kupang . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 375Soe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 379None . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 380Kefamenanu . . . . . . . . . . . 381Temkessi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 382Rote . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 383Nemberala . . . . . . . . . . . . . 383Sumba . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 385

Bali, Lombok & Nusa Tenggara Today . . . . . . . 396

History . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 398

Local Life & Religion . . .407

The Arts . . . . . . . . . . . . . 416

Architecture . . . . . . . . . 426

Environment . . . . . . . . . 433

Directory A–Z . . . . . . . . 440

Transport . . . . . . . . . . . . 450

Health . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 457

Language . . . . . . . . . . . . 462

Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 472

Map Legend . . . . . . . . . . 479

SURVIVAL GUIDE

UNDERSTAND

SPECIAL FEATURESBali, Lombok & Nusa Tenggara: Off the Beaten Track . . . . . . . . . . 34

Activities . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36

Best Beaches . . . . . . . . .107

Local Life & Religion . . .407

The Arts . . . . . . . . . . . . . 416

Itineraries

Jimbaran

Mas Klungkung(Semarapura)

Kerobokan

Seminyak

Ubud

BukitPeninsula

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Best of Bali

Seven days will fly by on this trip that covers Bali’s top-drawer sights.

Start at a beachside hotel in Seminyak, Kerobokan or Canggu; shop the streets and spend time at the beach. Enjoy a seafood dinner on Jimbaran Bay as part of a day trip to the monkey-filled temple at Ulu Watu.

In the east, take the coast road to wild beaches like the one near Pura Masceti, fol-lowed by the town of Klungkung (Semarapura), once the royal seat of Bali’s most important kingdom. Head north up to Sideman, which combines rice terraces with lush river valleys and cloud-shrouded mountains. Then go west to Ubud, the crowning glory on any itinerary.

To spoil yourself, stay in one of Ubud’s many hotels with views across rice fields and rivers. Sample the offerings at a spa before you try one of the myriad great restaurants. Bali’s rich culture is most celebrated and most accessible in Ubud and you’ll be capti-vated by nightly dance performances. Check out local craft studios, including the wood-carvers of Mas. Hike through the surrounding rice fields to river valleys, taking a break in museums bursting with paintings.

1 WEEK

28©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Above: Pura Taman Saraswati (p162), UbudRight: Seminyak Beach

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Find accommodation close to the beach in Kerobokan. Be sure to get to the trendy restaurants and cafes of Canggu before you leave this part of south Bali behind. Maybe you can learn how to surf, or at least brush up on your skills, before you head south to Bingin and its cliff-side inns overlooking the surf. Make the short drive down to Bukit Peninsula’s spiritual centre (and monkey home) Pura Luhur Ulu Watu and explore the secluded beaches at the bottom of Bali, such as Green Bowl Beach.

Take a trip through Denpasar and stop at the excellent local restaurants and mu-seum. Next, Bali’s ancient rice terraces will exhaust your abilities to describe green. Sam-ple these in a drive up to the terraces of Jatiluwih followed by the lyrical Pura Luhur Batukau. Make your way over the mountains via the Antosari Road, pausing at a remote hotel on the way. Head west to Pemuteran, where the hotels and resorts define relaxation. Dive or snorkel nearby Pulau Menjangan in Bali Barat National Park. It’s renowned for its coral and sheer 30m wall.

Lovina is a good break on a route around the coast to Tulamben, where scores of people explore the shattered hulk of a WWII freighter underwater. Get some serious chill time on the Amed Coast before the short jaunt to Tirta Gangga and hikes through rice fields and up jungle-clad hills to remote temples. Continue to Padangbai and then take back roads to Ubud. Find your favourite cafe and let the world wander past, or rid yourself of travel kinks at a spa. You might consider staying at one of the iconic family homestays, taking gentle walks through rice fields by day and marvelling at dance per-formances at night.

When you’re ready and rested, get a fast boat from Sanur to Nusa Lembongan. This little island has its own buzz, with a string of hotels – from basic to semiposh – lining its sands. It’s a timeless travellers’ scene with a backdrop of excellent surfing and splendid snorkelling and diving.

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You’ll visit six islands and countless beaches on a trip that takes you to the most interest-ing sites and places across Bali, Lombok and the Gilis.

Begin your trip at Bingin. Settle back in the sand and let the jet lag vanish. Then move to Canggu for Bali’s hippest scene. Transit through Denpasar for a purely Ba-linese lunch and head up the hill to Ubud to get a taste of traditional Balinese culture over two or three days. Next, visit the Jatiluwih Rice Fields, centuries old rice terraces that have received Unesco World Heritage status in recognition of their ancient rice-growing culture.

Next, head west to the village of Munduk, which looks down to the north coast and the sea beyond. Go for a walk in the area and enjoy waterfalls, truly tiny villages, wild fruit trees and the sinuous ribbons of rice paddies lining the hills. Then head south to the wonderful temple of Pura Luhur Batukau and consider a trek up Bali’s second-highest mountain, Gunung Batukau. Recover with some chill-out time on popular Balian Beach, just west.

Next, bounce across the waves from Sanur to Nusa Lembongan, the island hiding in the shadow of Nusa Penida. The latter is visible from much of the south and east – it makes a good day trip. Take in the amazing vistas from its cliffs and dive under the waves to check out the marine life.

Head to the Gili Islands on the direct boat from Nusa Lembongan for more tranquil time circumnavigating the three islands above and below the idyllic sapphire waters fringing them. Take a boat to Senggigi, but ignore the resorts and head south. Still off the beaten path, the south coast near Lombok’s Kuta has stunning beaches and surf-ing to reward the intrepid. The seldom-driven back roads of the interior will thrill the adventurous and curious, with tiny villages where you can learn about the amazing local handicrafts. Many of these roads travel through the foothills of sacred Gunung Rinjani, the volcanic peak that shelters the lush and remote Sembalun Valley.

3 WEEKS

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Above: Ulu Watu (p141) Left: Beach swing, Gili Air (p329)

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Ease into a tour of Bali’s best surf in the Kuta area. The surf break Halfway Kuta is the best scene for beginners; Legian Beach has more powerful breaks. North of Kerobokan, on the northern extremity of the bay, Batu Bolong (often called Cang-gu) has a nice beach with light-coloured sand and a chilled party scene.

Next, head west to classic surfer hang-out Balian Beach, where there are a few peaks near the mouth of Sungai Balian (Balian River). Further up the south coast of western Bali is a soft left called Medewi, a point break that can give a long ride right into the river mouth.

End the circuit in south Bali, where surfing sparked tourism on the island. Balangan is a fast left over a shallow reef; Bingin has short but perfect left-hand barrels. Padang Padang’s super-shallow, left-hand reef break is a very demanding break that only works over about 6ft from mid- to high tide (if you can’t surf tubes, backhand or forehand, don’t go out). Ulu Watu, the most famous surfing spot in Bali, has about seven different breaks (observe where other surfers paddle out and follow them).

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Surfing Bali

These three little dots of white sand off Lombok can easily occupy your entire trip, with their top-class options for diving, dining, partying and sunbathing. The ideal place to get to grips with island life is Gili Air, where the main beachfront strip is perfect tropical lounging territory. You can while away a day or two doing nothing but chilling with a book, taking a cooling dip, perfecting your asanas at a yoga school or feasting on inexpensive fresh seafood.

Next up is Trawangan, where there’s much more action. The perfect day here could start with a morning dive at a site such as Shark Point, followed by a healthy vegan lunch and an afternoon snooze. Then take a gentle stroll round the sandy lanes of the island, slipping in a sunset cocktail on the west coast. After dinner, feel the beat at one of Trawangan’s parties.

The final stop is Gili Meno, where, once you’ve secured the perfect place to stay (including at some new upscale choices), there’s little to do except ponder the sheer desert-isle-ness of the place. If you can drag yourself away from the beach, try snorkel-ling out to the underwater sculpture Nest or egret-spotting on the inland lake.

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0 200 km0 100 miles#e

Kerobokan has more than its fair shares of tourists, but wander a couple of kilometres east of its infamous jail and you’ll discover tourist-free streets lined with shops making and selling a fascinating array of local products. (p92)

KEROBOKAN

take the road between antosari and Mayong and you’ll pass rice paddies and terraces, fragrant spice-growing villages, coffee plantations and an eminently Instagrammable rice-growing valley near subuk. (p251)

AROUND ANTOSARI& MAYONG

these hot springs west of Lovina percolate amid lush tropical plants and boast three public pools fed by fierce-faced carved stone naga (mythical snake-like creatures). (p265)

AIR PANAS BANJAR

One of Flores’ first Portuguese settlements, this charming seaside village 6km off the trans-Flores Hwy south of Maumere has a handsome 19th-century cathedral. (p365)

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Once the ancient capital of a powerful Balinese kingdom, temple-rich Pejeng is now part of greater Ubud and an easy ride or walk from the centre of town. (p179)

PEJENG

Located in the fertile green foothills of Gunung Agung, the farming village of Gelumpang is home to a restaurant and cooking school that receives rave reviews from food-focussed travellers. (p225)

GELUMPANG

The rarely traversed route from Tabanan to Gilimanuk passes villages producing traditional pottery, a secluded beach at Yeh Gangga and the village of Kerambitan, known for its dance troupe, musicians and 17th-century palace. (p278)

TABANAN TO THE COAST

Untouched corals and a wealth of marine life make the waters in this little-visited group of islands a perfect destination for those who enjoy crowd-free snorkelling. (p312)

SOUTHWEST GILIS

It can be a hard slog to reach this remote region, but if you’re a keen surfer the trip will be worth it because the waves at Pantai Tarimbang, 95km southwest of Waingapu, are terrific. (p387)

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470470

OUR READERSMany thanks to the travellers who used the last edition and wrote to us with help-ful hints, useful advice and interesting anecdotes: Michael Beukema, Alex Boladeras, Catherine Burns, Kim Cox, Michael Gillespie, Barbara Hardy, Laura Hartshorne, Linnea Hedlund, Pierre Jaeger, Emily Lois, Mark McKnight, Martina Míková, Jennie Murray, Robert Pilger, Summer Read, Daniel Ribas, Anniek Schellen

WRITER THANKSVirginia MaxwellThanks to Ryan Ver Berkmoes for the Bali brief-ing, Hanafi Dharma for the expert driving and navigation, and Niamh O’Brien for monitoring the safety situation. My support team of Peter and Max Handsaker stayed calm when they saw the earthquake reports and made regular Skype calls to check up on me. I couldn’t work as a travel writer without them.

Mark JohansonThanks to all the people on Lombok and Sum-bawa who steered me in the right direction and helped me to navigate the post- earthquake islands, even when their personal lives were in shambles. I owe a debt of gratitude to Rudy Trekker, Gemma Marjaya, Kelly Goldie and Andy Wheatcroft for being fountains of knowledge along the way. A special thanks to

my partner Felipe Bascuñán for tolerating my long absences and to my editor Niamh O’Brien for tirelessly ensuring I was OK!

Sofia LevinErwin, Willy and Andy – thank you for your guidance on the road, but most of all, your friendship. To my husband, Matt, this job would be impossible without your constant support and encouragement, both when I’m away and by your side. And to my parents (aka my biggest fans), thank you for instilling me with curiosity, appetite and the travel bug from the moment I was born.

MaSovaida MorganDeepest thanks to the wonderful souls who pro-vided assistance, insight and companion ship throughout my time on Bali: Rob, Margie, Max, Kristy and the Outsite crew; Gigi and Annette; Ty and Jeff; and especially to my dear brother Bayu for an efficient and unforgettable journey.

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Clas-sification’, Hydrology and Earth System Sciences, 11, 1633–44.Cover photograph: Pura Ulun Danu Bratan, Marco Bottigelli/AWL ©.

Behind the Scenes


471BEH

IND TH

E SCENES

THIS BOOKThis 17th edition of Lonely Planet’s Bali, Lombok & Nusa Tenggara guidebook was curated by Virginia Maxwell, who also researched and wrote it along with Mark Johanson, Sofia Levin and MaSovaida Morgan. The previous edition was researched and written by Ryan Ver Berkmoes and curated by Kate Morgan. This guidebook was produced by the following:

Destination Editors Niamh O’Brien, Tanya ParkerSenior Product Editor Kate ChapmanProduct Editor Carolyn BoicosRegional Senior Cartographer Julie SheridanBook Designer Mazzy PrinsepAssisting Editors Kate Daly, Melanie Dankel, Carly Hall, Lou

McGregor, Maja Vatrić, Simon WilliamsonCartographer Rachel ImesonAssisting Book Designer Clara MonittoCover Researcher Wibowo RusliThanks to Andrea Dobbin, Andi Jones, Claire Naylor, Karyn Noble, Victoria Smith, Angela Tinson, Amanda Williamson

472

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

Index5GX Bali 71

AAas 230, 232, 234Abiansemal 202accessible travel 440accommodation 10, 431-2,

440-2, 462-3, see also individual locations

activities 25-7, 36-49, see also individual activities

Air Panas Banjar 265air pollution 438Air Sanih 255air travel 450-2alcohol 59, 397alcohol poisoning 446, 461Alor Archipelago 372-4, 370Amed 227-34, 229Amlapura 224-5amusement parks

5GX Bali 71 Bali Safari Park 214Bali Treetop Adventure

Park 246Taman Festival Bali

124-5Upside Down World 71Waterbom Park 71

animals 114, 154, 433-6, see also individual species

Antosari Road 251-2arak 446, 461architecture 426-32area codes 447art galleries, see museums

& galleriesarts 200, 416-25, see also

individual artscourses 37, 173, 200

Asan Munduk 247ATMs 445

BBahasa Indonesia 462-6 Bajawa 359-61Balangan Beach 136-7,

138-9, 9, 108-9bale 426Bali Aga people 222Bali Arts Festival 26, 118, 421Bali Barat National Park

271-3, 435, 272, 261Bali Bird Park 202Bali bombings 405Bali Botanic Garden 245-6Bali Kite Festival 128Bali Orchid Garden 125Bali Safari Park 214Bali Sea Turtle Society 67Bali Spirit Festival 176Bali starling 434Bali Treetop Adventure

Park 246 balian 413Balian Beach 278-80Balinese language 466Balinese names 408bamboo 432Bangli 208-9Banutan 230-1, 233Banyuning 230, 232, 234Banyuwedang 271bargaining 21Barong 417bathrooms 448batik 422, 422Batu Bolong Beach 99Batuan 201Batubulan 202Batur Caldera Geopark 243Batur Geopark Museum

240-1Bau Nyale Festival 307beaches 23, 107-14

Balangan Beach 136, 9, 108-9

Balian Beach 278Batu Bolong Beach 99Batubelig Beach 93

Berawa Beach 99Bias Tugal 216Bingin Beach 137Blue Lagoon Beach 216Bo'a 384Bukit Peninsula 9, 109,

132Canggu 13, 99, 12Crystal Bay Beach 159Double Six Beach 67Dream Beach 150Echo Beach 105Gili Air 329Gili Meno 325 Gili Trawangan 316,

109, 112Green Bowl Beach 143Heaven Beach 310Impossibles Beach 140Jimbaran Beach 132Jungutbatu Beach 150Kerewe Beach 22Kerobokan Beach 92-3Kupang 375Kuta Beach 14, 66, 12, 14,

107, 111Kuta (Lombok) 304, 108Kuta Reef Beach 67Labuan Bajo 349Legian Beach 66Lovina 258, 261Maluk 337 Mawan 306Nelayan Beach 99Nusa Dua 145Nusa Lembongan 150Padang Padang Beach

139-40, 13Padangbai 216Paga 367Pandawa Beach 144Pantai Areguling 304Pantai Dagong 310Pantai Keramas 214Pantai Ketewel 214Pantai Klotok 214Pantai Lakey 342

Pantai Lawar 338Pantai Lebih 214Pantai Masceti 214Pantai Mawan 304Pantai Mawi 311Pantai Medewi 280Pantai Pasir Putih 220Pantai Patra Jasa 66Pantai Penimbangan 256Pantai Purnama 214Pantai Seger 304Pantai Selegimpak 150Pantai Selong Blanak 311Pantai Tanjung Sanghyang

150Pantai Ujung 225Pemuteran Beach 266Pererenan Beach 106Prancak Beach 99Pulau Do’o 385Pulau Ndao 385Rantung Beach 338Sanur Beach 125Seminyak Beach 81,

21, 29Sire 300Suluban Beach 142,

110-11Sumba 393Tanjung Aan 304 Tanjung Pasir 340Tegalwangi Beach 132-3Tuban Beach 67Ulu Watu 142, 32 Virgin Beach 220Wodong 369

bedbugs 461Bedugul 245Bedulu 195-6beer 59Belimbingsari 282Belongas Bay 311bemos 454Bena 361-2Benoa Bay Reclamation

Project 397bicycle travel, see cycling


473IN

DEX B

-G Big Tree Farms 202Bingin 137-9Bio Rocks 270bird flu 458birds 163, 202, 273, 434-5,

261black magic 413Blahbatuh 200-1Blue Lagoon 156boat travel 451, 452-3boat trips & cruises

Bali Barat National Park 272

Nusa Lembongan 152-3Nusa Tenggara 351

Boni 384books 396

animals & plants 436arts 417, 425

budget 19, 54, 440Bukit Peninsula 9, 109,

132-49Bumbangku 309Bunut Bolong 252bus travel 451, 453-4business hours 445

CCalabai 341-3Campuan Ridge 176Candidasa 220-4, 221Candikuning 245-7Canggu 98-104, 100

accommodation 99-102activities 99beaches 13, 99, 12drinking & nightlife

103-4food 102-3shopping 22, 104sights 99travel to/from 104travel within 104

canyoning 47, 352car travel 447, 454-6caves 196, 215, 352, 375caving 47, 352Cekik 281Ceking Terraces 197cell phones 447-8Celuk 201Cemagi 276central mountains, Bali 61,

237-52, 238accommodation 237climate 237food 237highlights 238travel seasons 237travel to/from 239

ceramics 278ceremonies 411-14chemists 458children, travel with 50-2,

162child-sex tourism 444churches 282climate 18, 25, 26, 27, 442,

see also individual regions

cockfighting 414coffee 59consulates 443cooking courses 36-7

Banjar 197Gelumpang 225Gili Air 331Gili Trawangan 319Sanur 127-8Singaraja 262Tanjung Benoa 147Ubud 173

corals 436costs 19, 54, 440courses 36-7, see also

cooking coursesart 37, 173, 200diving 41jewellery 173language 118, 171, 173,

444music 173textiles 171

crafts 421-5, see also individual crafts

credit cards 445cremation 413-14 Crocodile Head 341cruises, see boat trips &

cruises Crystal Bay Beach 159culture 23-4, 407-9, 416-25currency 444, 445customs regulations 443cycling 37-8

Bali 37-8Danau Batur 242Gili Air 331Gili Meno 327Gili Trawangan 319Lombok 38, 39Lovina 262Nusa Lembongan 153Nusa Penida 157Ubud 171

Ddaggers 425 Dalam Loka 339Dalem Bedaulu 196

Danau Batur 241-3Danau Bratan 243-9, 244Danau Buyan 247-8Danau Tamblingan 247-8dance 15, 191, 416-18, 2, 15dangers, see safetydengue fever 459Denpasar 117-24, 120-1

accommodation 118-19activities 118courses 118drinking & nightlife 122emergency services 123festivals & events 118food 119-22history 117medical services 123shopping 122-3sights 117-18travel to/from 123-4travel within 124

departure tax 450diarrhoea 460disabilities, travellers

with 440diving 11, 24, 36, 38-41

Alor Archipelago 39, 373, 370

Amed 228Bali 38-9Belongas Bay 311courses 41equipment 39-40 freediving 22Gili Air 329-30Gili Islands 17, 39, 318Gili Meno 325-7, 17Gili Trawangan 113,

316-18Komodo 39, 113, 346 Kuta (Lombok) 305Labuan Bajo 346, 350-1 Lombok 39Lovina 259, 262Nusa Lembongan 152Nusa Penida 11, 113, 152,

157, 11operators 40-1Padangbai 217Pemuteran 267Pulau Menjangan 11, 113,

267, 268Pulau Moyo 340responsible diving 40Rinca 39, 113safety 460Sanur 128Senggigi 291-2Tulamben 113, 234-5

dogs 194, 434

dolphins 114, 258-9, 435 drinks 59, 464driving, see car traveldriving licences 454drugs 446Dukuh 124

Eearthquakes 287, 299,

315, 396east Bali 61, 203-36, 204-5

accommodation 203climate 203food 203highlights 204travel seasons 203travel to/from 206

ebo gogo 358Echo Beach 104-6, 100Ekas 310electricity 443embassies 443emergencies 19, 465Ende 363-4environmental issues 134,

310, 324, 397, 437-8etiquette 21, 319, 410, 411events, see festivals &

eventsexchange rates 19

Fferries, see boat travel festivals & events 25-7, 67,

414, see also individual festivals & events

films 396fish 114, 436fishing 310Flores 348-72, 371food 14, 21, 53-9, 443,

14, 55, 58, see also cooking courses, individual locations

children, travel with 52language 463-4seafood 16

freediving 22

Ggalleries, see museums &

galleries Galungan 27, 26gamelan 418gardens, see parks &

gardensGaruda Wisnu Kencana

Cultural Park 136, 2gay travellers 444Gedong Kirtya Library 256

474

IND

EX G- L

Gelgel 209Gelumpang 225Gendang Beleq 290geography & geology 433Gerupuk 306, 309-10Gianyar 206giardiasis 460Gili Air 329-33, 330, 32Gili Asahan 297Gili Gede 22, 297-8Gili Islands 62, 312-33, 313

accommodation 312climate 312food 312highlights 313safety 314travel seasons 312travel to/from 314-15travel within 315-16

Gili Layar 297Gili Meno 325-8, 326Gili Trawangan 316-25,

317, 320accommodation 319-22activities 316-19beaches 316, 109, 112courses 319drinking & nightlife

324-5food 322-4medical services 325shopping 325sights 316travel to/from 325

Gilimanuk 282Goa Gajah 196golf 146, 246government 415green initiatives 324Green School 202Gunung Agung 211-13Gunung Batukau 250-1Gunung Batur 239-41,

242, 240Gunung Kawi 197-8, 174-5Gunung Kelatakan 272Gunung Lempuyang 226Gunung Rinjani 299-300,

301-2Gunung Seraya 228Gunung Tambora 341-2

Hhandicrafts 421-5 hawkers 446

healers 182, 413health 457-61heat exhaustion 460heatstroke 460hepatitis 459herons 163hiking 36, 41-3

Amed 228Bali 42Bali Barat National Park

272-3Candidasa 220-1Danau Tamblingan 247equipment 43Flores 42Gili Trawangan 319Gunung Agung 212-13Gunung Batukau 250-1Gunung Batur 239-40,

242Gunung Inerie 359Gunung Mbeliling 352Gunung Rinjani 299-300,

301-2Gunung Tambora 341-2Kelimutu National Park

365Komodo National Park

42, 345 Lombok 42, 44Moni 366Munduk 248Nusa Lembongan 153Pauleni to Belaraghi 361Rinca 42, 347 safety 43Senggigi 293Sumbawa 42Tirta Gangga 225-6

Hinduism 409-10history 398-406HIV 459holidays 445-6hot springs

Air Panas Banjar 265 Bajawa 359Bena 362Danau Batur 242Gunung Rinjani 299Moni 366Yeh Sanih 255

Hu’u 342

Iikat 380, 422immigration 448-9, 450Indonesian Independence

Day 27Indonesian language 462-6 infectious diseases 458-60

insurancecar 455health 457travel 443

internet access 444internet resources

culture 407, 420health 457-8planning 19responsible travel 433Ubud 412

irrigation 276, 415Islam 410Islamic Center Nusa

Tenggara Barat 288itineraries 28-35

JJasri Bay 224Jatiluwih 250Jelenga 337jellyfish 461Jembrana Coast 280-2Jemeluk 230, 233jewellery 173, 425Jimbaran 16, 132-5, 133, 16Joshua District 277juice 59Jungutbatu 150

KKalabahi 373-5Kalibukbuk 258, 263, 264Kampung Komodo 344kayaking 305, 352Kecak 417Kecak Fire Dance 418Kefamenanu 381-2Kelimutu 365Kerambitan 278Kerobokan 92-8, 82-3

accommodation 93-4activities 93beaches 92-3drinking & nightlife 96food 94-6shopping 96-7travel to/from 97-8travel within 98

Kerobokan jail 406Kiadan Pelaga 246Kintamani 243kite-flying 26, 128, 26kitesurfing 47, 125, 342Klungkung 206-8, 207Komodo 344-7Komodo dragons 348, 16Komodo National Park 16,

345, 16, 43, 370-1kris 425

Kuningan 27Kupang 375-9Kusamba 215Kuta (Bali) 60, 64-81, 65,

68-9accommodation 64, 71-2activities 70-1beaches 14, 66-7, 12, 14,

107, 111climate 64drinking & nightlife

13, 78-9emergencies 80food 64, 75-6highlights 65medical services 80shopping 79-80sights 67-70travel seasons 64travel to/from 66, 80-1travel within 66, 81

Kuta (Lombok) 304-9, 305, 108

Kuta cowboys 76

LLabuan Bajo 346, 349-57Labuhan Aji 340Labuhan Lalang 271Labuhan Lombok 302Lange, Mads 67languages 462-6

courses 118, 171, 173, 444

Lebaran Topat 290legal matters 444Legian 66-81, 68-9

accommodation 72-4activities 70-1beaches 66-7drinking & nightlife 78-9food 76-7medical services 80shopping 79-80sights 67-70travel to/from 80-1travel within 81

Legong 417Lehan 230, 231-2LGBT+ travellers 444Liberty shipwreck 234,

235, 112-13Lingko Fields 359Lipah 230, 231literature, see booksLombok 62, 283-311,

284-5accommodation 283climate 283food 283


475IN

DEX L-P

highlights 284history 286travel seasons 283travel to/from 286travel within 287

lontar books 256Lovina 258-66, 259, 261

Mmagazines 423malaria 459Malean Sampi 290Maluk 337-8Manggis 219-20Mangsit 291 manta rays 435, 112marine life 114, 154, 435-6,

114markets 57

Candikuning 246Canggu 22, 104Denpasar 122Ende 363Gianyar 206Jimbaran 133Kalabahi 373Maubesi 382Semarapura 207-8Seririt 266Sukawati 201Sumbawa Besar 339West Timor 380

marriage 413, 412Mas 199Masjid Nurul Huda Gelgel

209Maslete 81massage 44, 118, 169-70,

292-3, 319, 351-2Mataram 288-91, 289Maubesi 382Maumere 368-9Mayura Water Palace 288measures 448Medewi 280medical services 458memorials, see

monuments & memorials

mobile phones 447-8monasteries 258money 19, 444-5moneychangers 445

scams 447Moni 365-7monuments & memorials

Bajra Sandhi Monument 117

Garuda Wisnu Kencana Cultural Park 136

Gunung Kawi 197-8, 174-5

Memorial Wall 67Puputan Monument 208stone pillar 125

mosquesIslamic Center Nusa

Tenggara Barat 288Masjid Kuno Bayan

Beleq 300-1mosquito bites 459motorcycle travel 454-6

scams 447Munduk 22, 247, 248-9museums & galleries

Agung Rai Museum of Art 163, 166

Batur Geopark Museum 240-1

BIASA ArtSpace 81Dream Museum Zone 67Kody & Ko 91Komaneka Art Gallery

163Lembaga Studi &

Pelestarian Budaya Sumba 391

Mandala Mathika Subak 276

Museum Buleleng 256Museum Gedung Arca

179Museum Le Mayeur 124Museum Manusa Yadnya

279Museum Manusia

Purbakala Gilimanuk 281

Museum Negeri Propinsi Bali 117-18

Museum Nusa Tenggara Timur 375-6

Museum Puri Lukisan 162-3

Museum Rudana 199-200

Museum Semarajaya 208

Neka Art Museum 167Neka Gallery 163Nyoman Gunarsa

Museum 208Pasifika Museum 144Pranoto’s Art Gallery 196Setia Darma House of

Mask & Puppets 199Symon Studios 255Taman Wedhi Budaya 118Threads of Life

Indonesian Textile Arts Center 192

Tonyraka Art Lounge 199music 418

courses 173

Nnational parks & nature

reserves, see also parks & gardens

Bali Barat National Park 271-3, 435, 261

Gunung Rinjani National Park 299-300

Kelimutu National Park 365

Komodo National Park 16, 345, 16, 43, 370-1

Taman Wisata Alam Kerandangan 293

Nemberala 383-4Ngada people 360nightlife 23, see also

individual locationsNirartha 280None 380-1north Bali 61, 253-73, 254


Nuabari 367Nusa Ceningan 156-7Nusa Dua 144-7, 145Nusa Lembongan 150-6, 151Nusa Penida 157-9Nusa Tenggara 62, 334-94,

335accommodation 334climate 334highlights 335 travel seasons 334travel to/from 336travel within 336

Nyepi 414

Oofferings 414, 423, 24ogoh-ogoh 414ojek 456opening hours 445orphanages, fake 447

PPadang Padang 139-41, 13Padangbai 216-19, 216Paga 367-8painting 419-21Palasari 282Pancasari 247Pancasila 341-2Pantai Lakey 342-4parks & gardens 436-7, see

also national parks & nature reserves

Bali Botanic Garden 245-6

Bali Orchid Garden 125Bali Treetop Adventure

Park 246Garuda Wisnu Kencana

Cultural Park 136, 2 Puputan Square 118Taman Tirta Gangga 225Taman Ujung 224Ubud Monkey Forest 166,

51, 174Pasola 25passports 448-9, 450Ped 158-9Pejaten 278Pejeng 179Pemandian Kuda Desa 236Pemuteran 266-70Penulisan 239Pererenan Beach 106Peresean 290Petulu 163pharmacies 458Pita Maha 420planning, see also

individual regionsactivities 36-49Bali, Lombok & Nusa

Tenggara basics 18-19Bali, Lombok & Nusa

Tenggara’s regions 60-2

budgeting 19, 54, 440calendar of events 25-7family travel 50-2first-time travellers 20-1food & drink 53-9internet resources 19itineraries 28-35repeat visitors 22travel seasons 18, 25,

26, 27plants 273, 436-7police, traffic 455pollution 438Ponjok 124population 397, 407-9postal services 445Poto 339pottery 278prickly heat 460processions 9, 8-9Proyek Penyu 266-7public holidays 445-6Pulaki 267Pulau Menjangan 113, 267,

268, 113Pulau Moyo 22, 340-1Pulau Satonda 341Pulau Serangan 124

476

IND

EX P-T

puppets 192, 199, 419Pupuan 251, 252Pura Besakih 212, 213, 212Pura Goa Lawah 215Pura Luhur Ulu Watu 17,

141-2, 17, 428Pura Tanah Lot 277, 2Pura Ulun Danu Bratan 245Puri Agung Karangasem 224Puri Agung Semarapura 207Puri Anyar Kerambitan 278

Rrabies 459rafting 43-4, 171Rantung Beach 338-9rashes 461Ratenggaro 393-4recycling 234reefs 270religion 397, 409-11responsible travel 433, 434rice cultivation 415, 437rice dishes 54Rinca 347-9Rinjani, see Gunung Rinjani rituals 411-14Riung 362-3road rules 455road safety 447, 455Rote 383-5Ruteng 357-8

Ssafety 446-7, see also

individual locationsboat travel 452children, travel with 52hiking 43road 447, 455swimming 447

sambal 54, 56Sampalan 158Sanda 251Sanghyang 418Sangsit 256Sanur 124-32, 126

accommodation 128-9activities 125, 127courses 127-8drinking & nightlife 131food 129-31history 132medical services 131shopping 131

sights 124-5travel to/from 131-2

Sape 344Sasak cuisine 56Sasak language 466Sasak people 290, 308Sawan 257scams 447scratches 461sea turtles 67, 114, 435-6seafood 16seaweed 156Sebatu 197Selang 230, 232Selong Blanak 310-11Semarapura, see

Klungkung Sembalun Valley 299, 301-2Seminyak 15, 60, 81-92,

82-3accommodation 85-7beaches 81, 21, 29drinking & nightlife

89-90entertainment 90food 87-9medical services 92safety 92shopping 90-2sights 81-4travel to/from 92

Senaru 301Senggigi 291-6, 292Seririt 266Seventeen Islands

Marine Park 362sex tourism laws 444shadow puppets 192,

199, 419sharks 114, 435shopping, see also

individual locationslanguage 465

Sidemen 209-11Sikka 365Singaraja 255-8Sire 300skin problems 461smoking laws 448snorkelling 17, 24, 36, 38-41

Amed 228Bali 38-9Crocodile Head 341equipment 39-40Gili Air 329-30Gili Islands 17, 39, 298,

329Gili Meno 325-7Gili Trawangan 316-18Komodo 345, 346

Labuan Bajo 346, 350-1Labuhan Aji 341Lombok 39Nusa Lembongan 152Padangbai 217Pemuteran 267Pulau Menjangan 267,

268Pulau Satonda 341Senggigi 291-2Tulamben 234-5, 112-13

Soe 379-80south Bali 60, 115-59, 116


spas 10, 44, 10Candidasa 220Canggu 99Gili Air 331Kerobokan 93Kuta 71Labuan Bajo 351-2Lovina 262Sanur 127Seminyak 84-5Senggigi 292-3Tanjung Benoa 147Ubud 169-70

stings 461stone carving 425street names 86subak 276, 415Subuk 251Sukawati 201Sumba 385-94, 370Sumbawa 302, 336-44Sumbawa Besar 339-40sunburn 461Supersuck 111, 337surfing 36, 44-9

Balangan 45, 136, 9Bali 13, 44-8, 45Balian 45Batu Bolong 45 Bingin Beach 45, 137Ekas 48-9, 310equipment 49Gerupuk 48, 309Gili Air 331Gili Islands 49Gili Trawangan 319Impossibles Beach 45Jelenga 337Kuta (Bali) 45-6, 70-1,

111

Kuta (Lombok) 305-6Lombok 48, 306Lovina 259Mawi 48, 306Medewi 46, 280Nusa Ceningan 156Nusa Dua 46, 146Nusa Lembongan 46,

111, 150-2Padang Padang 47, 13Pantai Lakey 342Rantung Beach 338Rote 49Sanur 47Seminyak 85Serangan 47Sumba 387, 393Sumbawa 49, 46Supersuck 111, 337Tanjung Desert 48, 111,

296-7, 110Ulu Watu 47-8, 111,

141, 142swimming safety 447

TTabanan 276-7Taman Festival Bali 124-5Taman Wedhi Budaya 118Taman Wisata Alam

Kerandangan 293Taman Wisata Tetebatu 302Tambolaka 390-2Tampaksiring 197-8Tanjung Benoa 147-9, 148Tanjung Desert 48, 111,

296-7, 110taxis 456Tegallalang 197Tejakula 236telephone services 447-8Teluk Terima 273Temkessi 382-3temple festivals 67temples 23, 428-31

Gunung Kawi 197-8, 174-5

Gunung Kawi Sebatu 197Makam Jayaprana 271Penataran Tempuyang

226Pura Batu Bolong 291Pura Batumejan 99Pura Batur 241Pura Beji 256Pura Besakih 212, 213,

212Pura Bias Tugal 145Pura Bukit Mentik 241Pura Bukit Tageh 209


47 7IN

DEX T-Y

Pura Dalem Agung 166-7Pura Dalem Balangan 136Pura Dalem Jagaraga

256Pura Dalem Penetaran

Ped 158Pura Dalem

Penunggekan 209Pura Dalem Prancak 99Pura Dalem Sidan 206Pura Dasar Batuan 201Pura Desa Ubud 163, 174Pura Erjeruk 214Pura Gede Luhur Batu

Ngaus 276Pura Gegar 144Pura Gili Kencana 268Pura Goa Lawah 215Pura Gunung Lebah 169Pura Jagat Natha 257Pura Jagatnatha 118Pura Kahyangan Jagat

200-1Pura Kebo Edan 179Pura Kehen 209Pura Lempuyang 22, 226Pura Lingsar 288Pura Luhur Batukau 250Pura Luhur Ulu Watu 17,

141-2, 17, 428Pura Maduwe Karang

255Pura Maospahit 118Pura Mas Suka 143Pura Masceti (Masceti

Beach) 214Pura Masceti (Seminyak)

84Pura Meru 288Pura Pancering Jagat 241Pura Penataran 280Pura Penataran Agung

212Pura Penataran Sasih 179Pura Petitenget 81, 84Pura Ponjok Batu 255Pura Pulaki 267Pura Puncak Penulisan

239Pura Puseh Batuan 201Pura Puseh Desa

Batubulan 202Pura Puseh Desa

Blahbatuh 201Pura Pusering Jagad 179Pura Rambut Siwi 280Pura Sakenan 124Pura Samuan Tiga 196Pura Segara 214Pura Silayukti 216Pura Taman Ayun

279, 24

Pura Taman Saraswati 162, 29

Pura Tanah Lot 277, 2Pura Tirta Empul 198, 26Pura Ulun Danu Batur

241Pura Ulun Danu Bratan

245Pura Ulun Siwi 133Vihara Dharmayana

Temple 70Tenganan 222Tetebatu 302-3textiles 201, 339, 422-4

courses 171theft 446-7Tibubiyu 278ticks 461Tihingan 208time 18, 448Timor-Leste 377tipping 21Tirta Gangga 225-7toilets 448tourism 66, 397tourist information 448tours 41touts 446train travel 451travel to/from Bali,

Lombok & Nusa Tenggara 450-1

travel within Bali, Lombok & Nusa Tenggara 451-6

trekking, see hiking Tuban 74, 77, 74Tukad Bangkung Bridge

246Tulamben 113, 234-6,

112-13Turtle Island 124turtles 67, 266-7, 435-6typhoid 459-60

UUbud 11, 61, 160-95, 161,

164-5, 168-9, 5, 11accommodation 160,

176-83activities 169-71children, travel with 162climate 160courses 171-3drinking & nightlife

189-92festivals & events 176food 22, 160, 183-9highlights 161history 162internet access 194medical services 194-5

safety 194shopping 192-4sights 162-9tourist offices 195tours 173travel seasons 160travel to/from 195travel within 195walking tours 172, 172

Ubud Monkey Forest 166, 51, 174

Ubud Palace 162Ubud Writers & Readers

Festival 27, 176Ujung 231Ulu Watu 141-3, 138-9, 32Umalas 98Ungasan 143-4Upside Down World 71Usaba Sambah Festival 222

Vvacations 445-6vaccinations 458vegan travellers 56vegetarian travellers 56visas 18, 377, 448-9volcanoes 433

Gunung Agung 211-13Gunung Inerie 359Gunung Mbeliling 352Gunung Rinjani 299-300Gunung Tambora 341-2 Kelimutu 365

volunteering 157-8, 449

WWae Rebo 358-9Waiara 369Waikabubak 389-90Waingapu 385-8Wainyapu 394walks 176, see also hikingWallace Line 435Wanokaka 392-3waste 438water, drinking 177, 460water usage & pollution

438Waterbom Park 71waterfalls

Air Terjun Gangga 300Air Terjun Gitgit 256Air Terjun Jukut 302Air Terjun Kelelawar 302Air Terjun Oehala 379Air Terjun Sindang

Gila 301Air Terjun Singsing 258Air Terjun Tanggedu 386

Air Terjun Tiu Kelep 301Air Terjun Tiu Pupas 300Air Terjun Yeh Mampeh

236Banyu Wana Amertha

Waterfalls 248Banyumala Twin

Waterfalls 248Mata Jitu Waterfall 340Munduk Waterfall 248Pujungan 252Sekumpul Waterfall

257, 260Singsing Dua 258

wayang kulit 192, 199, 419weather 18, 25, 26, 27, 442,

see also individual regions

weaving 422-4websites, see internet

resourcesWeekuri Lagoon 390weights 448Wektu Telu 300, 411west Bali 62, 274-82, 275


West Timor 374-83wi-fi 444wildlife sanctuaries

Bali Bird Park 202Bali Reptile Park 202

windsurfing 125, 127wine 59Wodong 369-72women, Balinese 409women travellers 449

health 461woodcarving 193, 424working spaces 22

YYeh Gangga 278Yeh Pulu 195-6Yeh Sanih 255yoga 49

Amed 228Gili Air 331Gili Meno 327Kerobokan 93Kuta (Lombok) 305Sanur 127Seminyak 84Ubud 170-1

478

NO

TES

479

Walking Tour detourWalking Tour

Path/Walking Trail

BankEmbassy/ConsulateHospital/MedicalInternetPolicePost OfficeTelephoneToiletTourist InformationOther Information

AirportBorder crossingBus

CyclingFerry

Underground station

MonorailParking

Metro station

Petrol stationSubway stationTaxiTrain station/RailwayTram

Other Transport

LighthouseHut/Shelter

BeachGate

LookoutMountain/VolcanoOasisParkPassPicnic AreaWaterfall

River, CreekIntermittent River

Swamp/Mangrove

Reef

Canal

Water

Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake

Glacier

Beach/Desert

Airport/Runway

Cemetery (Christian)

Cemetery (Other)

Park/Forest

Mudflat

Sportsground

Sight (Building)

International

DisputedRegional/SuburbMarine ParkCliffWall

Capital (National)Capital (State/Province)City/Large TownTown/Village

State/Province

LaneTertiary

TollwayFreewayPrimary

StepsPlaza/Mall

Pedestrian overpass

Secondary

Unsealed roadRoad under construction

Tunnel

Cable car/Funicular

BeachBird SanctuaryBuddhistCastle/PalaceChristianConfucianHinduIslamicJainJewishMonumentMuseum/Gallery/Historic BuildingRuin

Sento Hot Baths/Onsen

ShintoSikhTaoistWinery/VineyardZoo/Wildlife SanctuaryOther Sight

DivingBodysurfing

Sleeping

Eating

Entertainment

Shopping

Drinking & NightlifeCafe

CampingHut/Shelter

Canoeing/KayakingCourse/Tour

SkiingSnorkellingSurfingSwimming/PoolWalkingWindsurfingOther Activity

Information Routes

Boundaries

Hydrography

Areas

Geographic

Population

Transport

Sights

Activities,Courses & Tours

Sleeping

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Entertainment

ShoppingNote: Not all symbols displayed above appear on the maps in this book

Map Legend


OUR STORYA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.

Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Dublin, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.

Published by Lonely Planet Global LimitedCRN 55415317th edition – Jul 2019ISBN 978 1 78657 510 4© Lonely Planet 2019 Photographs © as indicated 201910 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1Printed in SingaporeAll rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.

Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasona-ble care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.

OUR WRITERSVirginia MaxwellUbud Region, East Bali Although based in Australia, Virginia spends at least half of her year updating Lonely Planet destination coverage across the globe. The Mediterranean is her major area of interest – she has covered Spain, Italy, Tur-key, Syria, Lebanon, Israel, Egypt, Morocco and Tunisia for Lonely Planet – but she also covers Bali, Finland, Armenia, the Netherlands, the USA and Australia. Follow her @maxwellvirginia on Instagram and Twitter.

Mark JohansonLombok, West Nusa Tenggara Mark grew up in Virginia and has called five differ-ent countries home over the last decade while circling the globe reporting for British newspapers (The Guardian), American magazines (Men’s Journal) and global media outlets (CNN, BBC). When not on the road, you’ll find him gazing at the Andes from his current home in Santiago, Chile. Follow his adventures at www.markjohanson.com.

Sofia LevinEast Nusa Tenggara A Melbourne-based food and travel journalist, Sofia believes that eating in a country other than one’s own is the simplest way to understand a culture. She has a stomach of steel and the ability to sniff out local haunts. Aside from trawling Melbourne as the Lonely Planet local, she also co-authors guidebooks and writes for Fairfax newspapers and travel magazines. When she’s not travelling or eating, Sofia runs copywriting and social-media company Word

Salad and spreads smiles with her Insta- famous poodle, @lifeofjinkee. Find her on Instagram and Twitter (@sofiaklevin).

MaSovaida MorganBali MaSovaida is a travel writer and multimedia storyteller whose wanderlust has taken her to more than 40 countries and all seven continents. Previously, she was Lonely Planet’s Destination Editor for South America and Antarctica for four years, and worked as an editor for newspapers and NGOs in the Middle East and the United Kingdom. Follow her on Instagram @MaSovaida.


© Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’


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