AtlAs of tAste

A GUIDE TO THE EXCELLENT PRODUCTS

IN THE TERNI PROVINCE

Authorization of the court ofTerni n. 09/09 of 06.08.2009

Publication organised by Terni Chamber of Commerce

Editorial projectPromotion and Development Office

TextsDanca Caccavello and Mara Quadraccia

Graphics and Translations Lingua Sì srl

PhotosPasquale Comegna, Danca Caccavello, Stefano Fabi, courtesy of Alessandro Geraldini.

All rights reserved.Reproduction for third parties forbidden

The printed version of thisdocument was made on 100% recycled paper.

AtlAs of tAste

A GUIDE TO THE EXCELLENT PRODUCTS

IN THE TERNI PROVINCE

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tHe VICtUAleR of soUtHeRNUMBRIA THE CUCINA POVERA OF FARM TRADITION

Just as a person is more familiar to us afterhaving shared a meal, thus a territory is betterunderstood when we search for local products

and enjoy typical dishes in their places of originwhere the traditional recipes are preserved andrenewed.Dishes with the same basic ingredients (olive oil,legumes, garlic, onion, fresh herbs, pork, chicken,eggs) are made throughout the territory, yet withdifferent names and different secondaryingredients: the various dishes are the kaleidoscopeof what we produce. The list may seem limited in quantity but it is aguarantee of quality and seasonal freshness. The Terni province countryside is impressivebecause of the variety of morphological elementsthat arouse curiosity about a land where what isproduced has the flavour of its history, a masterlyblend of nature and culture. The prevalence of calcareous hills covered withwoods, streams, basins and springs, clayey terrain,and the Mediterranean climate are the rightconditions for developing a deep-rooted ruralenvironment and a renewed source of wealth.The products from livestock breeding and crops arethe tangible, tasty forms of a widespread memoryrepository made from stratified knowledge of theprocessing, ageing and preservation procedures.

The shape of the territory has directed theagricultural choices, the seasonal harvest of herbsand spontaneous fruits and the work connected tomaking the most of natural resources.There are still obvious signs of crops that formedthe cultures, leading to identifying a place and itsinhabitants with their prevalent work.The basket of the area contains products with thepure taste and authentic flavour of simplicity whereone recognises the fragrances and magic of the landthey come from.The hills and dales covered in olive groves yield afragrant, fruity, very low acid DOP (PDO ProtectedDesignation of Origin) extra virgin olive oil whilethe rows of vines outlining the hillsides give theirbest to DOC and IGT (TGI Typical GeographicalIndication) wines and in superior quality productssuch as late harvesting, muffato, passito andsparkling wines. The hilly and mountain pastures feed cattle for theproduction of prized Chianina IGP (PGI ProtectedGeographical Indication) beef and sheep for theproduction of meat and cheese; the production andconsumption of pork meats are the mostwidespread of a typically Apennine food tradition,the skilful transformation into cold cuts havingbeen invented in Umbria. In the cities and in the villages one smells daily the

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superfluous for pleasures and luxury”. The spread of rural Roman villas near the mainwaterways and the presence of ports with largewarehouses mean that we can reconstruct a historyin which the territory plays an important role forsupplying Rome with foodstuffs: oil, wine, spelt,legumes, wheat, dried fruit, mushrooms andtruffles.

CHRISTIANITY AND THE MONASTIC ORDERS

eating habits changed with the spread ofChristianity, when certain foods took on asacred, symbolic value: oil, wine, bread and

lamb. The early Benedictine communities became asafe reference for the populations threatened by thebarbarian invasions thanks to technical innovationsfor increasing agricultural production and foodprocessing, such as pork preserved for annualconsumption. The therapeutic properties of the natural watersprings, sacred element and food since the mostremote cults, are combined with the miraculouscapabilities of saints such as Saint Francis, for theAmerino spring and San Gemini for his namesakespring. The diffusion of the Franciscan ruleintroduced frugal dietary habits marked by daily

fragrance of freshly baked bread that is enrichedwith the aromas of seasonal and ritual foods suchas the pizza di Pasqua (Easter cake), panpepato(cake flavoured with spices, honey, almonds,orange peel and candied citron), biscuits withmust; and more, with good types of flour even asimple dough made with water becomes asubstantial, tasty homemade pasta. Farming cereal and legume crops is supported byterrain that holds water; springs of particularly lightwaters make this primary element an importantindustry. The widespread mantle of woods protects wildboar, favours mushrooms and hides one of thetreasures of this soil: the white and black truffle,the prince of the most refined food. Spontaneousflora offers its essences for herb liqueurs preparedwith the alchemy of age-old recipes.

HISTORY

the characteristics of the Terni provincecuisine are not easily traceable in othernearby areas because it developed

independently with its own roots, preserving thecultural elements of the local populations.

UMBRIANS, ETRUSCANS AND ROMANS

even in its culinary tradition the territoryepitomises the two historical roots: Umbrianand Etruscan.

The Umbrians, shepherds and farmers, had noknowledge of the ritual wealth of the refinedEtruscan banquets with meat, game, legumes andfruit. Diodoro Siculo noted ”they live in anincredibly fertile land that, properly cultivated,provides not just what is necessary, but even the

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and calendar rhythms, with strict observance ofLent, and a prevalent consumption of cereals, oil,bread, cheese and fruit.

FREE COMUNES AND THE STATUTES

the use of uncultivated land is regulated bythe comunes with the institution of theAgrarian Communities or Collective

Domains, for the right of pasture, wood cuttingand grass. It was material support for people whohad no income, and also developed a form ofsocial solidarity that still exists today in the areaswith a wealth of woods and game. The statute ofeach comune established the specific rules formanaging the land, bread making, raising farmyardanimals and the public indication of measuresused in the marketplaces.

RENAISSANCE AND COURTYARDS

the end of the struggle between comunes andthe widespread supremacy of families boundto papal power encouraged the people to

return to the land with use of soil for extensivefarming at the expense of woodland. The courtsbecame places where any art, even cuisine, mustexcel; the banquet of the renaissance lord is thesign of his power entrusted to the farrier or courtcook.The first recipe books appear, such as “Il Saporetto”by Simone Prodenzani, from the Prodo court nearOrvieto, and there is no lack of innovationsfollowing the arrival of spices and new animalsafter the discovery of America.The dining table is enriched with the meat ofanimals, whether bred or wild, and moreelaborated dishes seasoned with exotic spices.

HISTORIC MODERNISM

since the 17th century there has been a certainlack of movement in this land protected bythe power of the church: the land belongs to

the families connected to the papal court or to thelarge convent communities. Basic foods and their derivatives continue to beproduced, but there is an increase in the gapbetween what is on the dining table of the rich andwhat is available to the poor. The availability of food, as well as curiosity,induces alchemic experimentation, as in the case ofFederico Cesi and Mastro Girolamo with theOrvietan, therapeutic liquor that in the end caneven be found in Molière’s France.The arrival of the Grand Tour travellers makes thecultural value of our products evident, even themost simple ones such as bygone fruits. The sceneof tables laden with wine, cold cuts, bread and fruitis immortalised by Flemish or local painters oncanvas or frescoes.At the end of the nineteenth century, with theindustrial revolution, the birth of the first largescale food production (pasta, Amelia figs, sweets) isrecorded. Mineral water starts to become a preciousmarketing product, thanks to bottling, and it gainsfame beyond regional borders. With the introduction of mechanisation, theproduction panorama changes. It is no longerlimited to just household use and an exchangeeconomy. When companies are set up, productionmoves on to the transformation of products formarketing purposes.

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CeReAls 6

Spelt 7Barley 8

BReAd 9

Bread with must 12Easter pizza or cake 13

pAstA 14

Egg pasta 15Ciriole 16

sweets 17

Amelia figs 18Tortiglione or torcilione 19Pan pepato 20

olIVe oIl 21

Extra virgin olive oil DOP Umbria 22

tRUffle 24

Black and white truffle 25

sAlAMI ANd Cold CUts 27

Sausage Mazzafegata Salami Head cheese 28Prosciutto 29Capocollo/Loin Lombetto BacomGuanciale Lard 30Porchetta 32

Beef 33

Chianina beef 34

leGUMes 35

Lentils 36Broad beans 37Cicerchie beans 38Common beans 39

lIQUeURs 40

Bitter liqueurs and herbal liqueurs 41

INdex

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CeReAls

Cereals – wheat, barley and spelt – aremembers of the grain family. They taketheir name from Cerere, divinity of grainvenerated by the Romans, for whom they

were the basic daily diet. In the Bible they arequoted as “the grass that produces seed”, henceconsidered an excellent food. The Greeks adoredDemeter because she had brought wheat farming toearth, allowing humankind to move from the wildstate to the civilised state. Latin shepherds ate“puls”, polenta made of spelt, barley andbuckwheat. Widespread cultivation is due to easy adaptation tovarious environmental and climatic conditions,being rich in starch they are easy to digest andpreserve, even after milling for flour.

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speltDESCRIPTION CHARACTERISTICS VARIATIONS Spelt, a herbaceous plant of the gramineae family, is the oldestvariety of wheat farmed by man. It adapts itself to poor soil, resists cold and drought andparasite infestation, therefore it is especially suited to organiccultivation. It is called “covered wheat” because the seed iscovered by a protective hull (cariosside), which is eliminatedby hulling and peeling. Presence of the methionine amino aciddistinguishes it from the other cereals that are deficient. It ishighly antioxidant due to selenium and phytic acid thatinhibit the formation of free radicals.

BASIC INGREDIENTS AND VARIATIONS This cereal can be classified in three varieties of the genusTriticum: small or monococcum spelt, medium or dicoccumspelt, large or spelta spelt.

ORGANOLEPTIC PECULIARITIES This is different from durum and soft wheat because of thepericarp around the kernel, as in barley and oats. The kernel islong and tapering, colour between light brown and white, with aslightly rough surface and a hard, compact consistency. Thestarch odour and flavour can be perceived after cooking, when astraw odour is given off.

NUTRITIONAL VALUES Protein Unsaturated and polyunsaturated fats Vitamins A, B, C, E Phytic acid Mineral salts (potassium, phosphorous, calcium, iron, sodium,magnesium, manganese, copper, selenium and cobalt)

ORIGINSpelt is the oldest cereal, grown as early as the Neolithic timesin Asia Minor, then in Egypt where it was used for soups andrudimentary flatbreads. Spread nomadically in the Mediterranean area, it is thecommon crop of the people living on the Apennine ridge inour peninsula. The Romans used it as provisions for thelegionnaires and for making «puls», soup of boiled cereals, orunleavened flatbread.Used as an offer in religious ceremonies, with the ‘confarreatio’rite, the offer of a spelt flatbread eaten by newlywedsconsecrated the passage of the woman into her husband’sfamily. This was progressively replaced by the greater yield of durum

and soft wheat, until it was nearly abandoned in the MiddleAges when it was destined for livestock feed and grown inorder to produce straw. Increasing attention to organic and natural products has led tothe recent rediscovery of spelt farming, introduced again in amore healthy daily diet and entered in local menus.

WHERE IT IS GROWN Throughout the province, above all in marginal agriculturalareas.

GROWING CYCLE Sowing in autumn/winter, harvest in the summer, thenpackaging.

DESCRIPTION OF WHERE IT CAN BE GROWN High hill or mountain areas in cold, calcareous terrain, rooms orsilos for storage, laboratories for processing and packaging.

PROCESSING PROCEDURES AND VARIATIONS Cultivation is done with the “covered seed” which is bedded outin autumn/winter and harvest is done in the summer. After beingstored, the spelt is screened, then hulling, decorticating andpearling is done. Spelt can be used whole or crushed for soups,or boiled for other hot or cold dishes.

BONDS WITH THE TERRITORY The ancient Umbrians offered the iron cake to the war gods. TheRomans considered spelt, symbol of the generosity of the land,to be the wheat of Umbria. Moving along the Tiber it reached thewarehouses and the tables of Rome. Cultivation of it was nevercompletely abandoned, and it was the supporting food of thepoorer classes and the economic power of the landowners. The great abundance of kernels in the ear made it the symbol ofabundance, shown in the iconography of numerous frescoes andin the coats of arms of noble families such as Amelia’s Farrattinifamily.

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BARleYDESCRIPTION CHARACTERISTICSVARIATIONS Barley, one of the most ancientgrasses used to feed humans andanimals, has an ear rich in caryopsis, kernels covered in theirhull. It was the first cereal used for making an unleavened typeof bread because it was gluten-free. Mixing the flour withwheat, which keeps better, is suitable for making bread. There are two varieties of barley: nude or clean which naturallyloses its hull, and barley that goes through the pearlingprocess. The first type maintains intact all the characteristics of thewhole kernel, mineral salts, fibres and vitamins, whereas thesecond type, which during processing loses its nutritionalelements, is more digestible.

BASIC INGREDIENTS AND VARIATIONS Whole grain, pearl and hulled barley is used for food: malt isextracted from tender barley to produce beer or whisky. Toastedbarley is used to substitute coffee; it is nourishing and nonstimulating due to the absence of caffeine. It is found commercially in the form of flour and flakes, and canbe used in baking and for making drinks.

ORGANOLEPTIC PECULIARITIES The oval kernel, with a more or less marked longitudinal line, isyellowish in colour that in some cultivars could tend towardswhite or dark red. The odour and flavour of starch can beperceived after cooking, whereas after toasting it is similar tocoffee.

NUTRITIONAL VALUES Protein, lipids, glucides, iron, calcium, phosphorous, vitaminsB1, B2, B3

ORIGINBarley is a plant grown in the Middle East in the Neolithicepoch and came to Europe before wheat. In the OldTestament, wheat and barley were mentioned as an offering offirst fruits or a gift with oil and wine. The Greeks and Romansate mostly barley, with which they made bread and soups.Pliny the Elder told that the gladiators ate barley, nourishingand digestible. This is why they were called "hordearii" (barleyeaters). In the middle ages, country food was based on minor cerealssuch as barley until corn was introduced after the discovery ofAmerica. Preference began for wheat, more suited for bread-

making, therefore barley wasconsidered coarse food to be given tothe lower classes. The shape of thehost consecrated in mass forcommunion recalls the shape of theunleavened barley flour loaves usedby the early Christians.

WHERE IT IS GROWN Throughout the province, in areas that are not particularly fertile.

GROWING CYCLE It is sown and bedded out in late autumn, threshing starts inJune, then it is stored and packaged.

DESCRIPTION OF WHERE IT CAN BE GROWN Planted in lean, loose, well drained soil, it resists temperatureranges, therefore it can be grown on flatland as well as in themountains. After harvest it is put in dry warehouses or silos forstorage, then processed and packaged in suitable environments.

PROCESSING PROCEDURES AND VARIATIONS It is sown and bedded out in late autumn, for some varieties inMarch, and threshing is done in June. After storage, barley issorted, hulled and, if necessary, pearled. Before consumption, this cereal must be washed and drained.The wholegrain is left to soak for one day, then cooked for morethan one hour, whereas pearl barley, without soaking, cooks inless than one hour. Barley can be used whole or crushed for soups and other foods,ground for flour, or toasted for “barley coffee”.

BONDS WITH THE LAND Growing barley was done traditionally everywhere in theprovince since it is a very adaptable cereal, both for soil andvarious types of climate. In the food habits of our countryside it has become a commonfood due to the possibility to preserve and transform it, with thewidespread presence of watermills for cereals. From the 19th century to the second half of the 20th century,“barley coffee” was a companion to milk and day-old bread atthe farmer’s breakfast table. Every family did their share in thesmall rite of toasting barley by turning the metal container overthe fire in the fireplace. Barley bread was the bread of the poorest farmers between Mayand June, when the provisions of durum wheat were finishedand the new harvest of wheat was not yet available. Barley sweets were always in the glass jars of the pharmacies or inGranny’s pockets as a gentle remedy for a sore throat.

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BReAd

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BReAdDESCRIPTION CHARACTERISTICS White bread of the rural tradition, double rising with naturalagents and without salt; its shape is a long loaf, roll or filettodepending on the weight; the lack of salt is due toenvironmental, historic, economic and food reasons.

VARIATIONSloaf, half loaf, roll, thin roll focaccia, acciaccata, schiacciata (flattened bread dough with alittle salt and olive oil on the top) Wheatmeal bread, cereal bread, bread with olives, bread withnuts “Calendar” bread: Saint Anthony’s bread, savoury or sweetEaster pizzas also called cakes, anise bread or biscuits forthreshing, bread with must during grape harvest Bread baked in a wood-burning oven, ordinary bread, Ternibread, Stroncone bread, Amelia bread

BASIC INGREDIENTS AND VARIATIONS White bread: 0 type white flour, water, brewer’s yeast or naturalyeast Wheatmeal bread: 0 type white flour with the addition ofbran, water, brewer’s yeast or natural yeast Cereal bread: 0 type white flour with the addition of cereals(rye, barley, oats, spelt, millet)

ORGANOLEPTIC PECULIARITIES Sourdough bread with double natural rising has aroma andflavour easy to detect due to the formation of organiccompounds that determine longer preservation and greaterdigestibility. As soon as the bread comes out of the oven it hasa characteristic sweet smell, a golden crisp crust and a softalveolated crumb. To enjoy the fragrance it should be eaten thesame day, though bread baked in a wood-burning oven can beeaten even after a few days when the crust softens and thecrumb becomes firmer.

NUTRITIONAL VALUES Water, gluten, unsaturated fats, sugars, calcium, phosphorous,sodium, potassium, iron and magnesium. Wheatmeal bread: vitamins B1, B2, B5, B6, PP and H White bread: vitamin E

ORIGINBread, a basic food, has undergone various transformationsover the centuries, but the dough made of flour and waterhasn’t changed. Wheat was imported from Egypt by the

Romans who introduced its cultivation in Etruria, the granary ofRome. A flatbread was made, cooked under the ashes and usedas a plate to put food on. The double natural rising, with naturalyeast, led to the production of a higher bread, wheel-shapedwith eight radius lines marked on it, corresponding to thesoldier’s rations. The symbolic value of bread for Christianityintroduced the habit of marking the dough with a cross. In theMiddle Ages the term companage was spread because bread wassomething to eat with other foods. The poverty of most of thepopulation led to the habit of mixing less noble flours withwheat, for example acorn flour, therefore white bread was onlyfor the few. In Umbria, a region far from the sea, finding saltwas very costly; farmers got used to not using it in breadmaking, preferring to use it in the preservation of pork. PopePaul III’s salt taxation led to the “salt war” and people finallystopped using it, consolidating the tradition of flavourless breadthat brings out the flavour of cold cuts. In the city archives it isshown that the bakers had to provide “good bread… welldone”, seven and a half ounces for a Papal copper, except for the“pan busfetto”, fine bread, sold freely. Bread had monetaryvalue. The Middle Ages saw the first form of a “bank” depositwith the Monti Frumentari: in the agrarian contracts, bread waspart of the rental of the “bread lands” and the produce of thefields was called “bread harvest”. The wood-burning ovens,whether in families or collectively, and knowing how to makebread, were a community asset. They are still preserved and usedin some of the farmhouses and villages.

BAKING CYCLE Traditional bread baked in a wood-burning oven was madeonce a week, taking care to leave a portion of leavened doughin the “ark” for the next batch. At certain ritual times of theyear, when bread was given specific shapes and meanings(Saint Antonio’s bread, baptism bread) there was an increasein production. Today’s eating habits mean fresh bread made

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daily, therefore bakers work at night so that their fragrantgoods reach the table every day of the year.

WHERE IT IS BAKEDSince it is an essential food, bread baking is widespread. In everycomune there are artisan types of ovens and in some places thereis an industrial type of production. Some types of bread areidentified by where they are made, such as the Terni, Stroncone,Amelia and Orvieto breads, different in shape and type ofprocessing.

DESCRIPTION OF THE PRODUCTION LOCALES It is baked in artisan or industrial ovens. They must havecommon tools, work surfaces and leavening surfaces, electric orwood-burning ovens for baking.

BREAD MAKING METHODS AND VARIATIONS Bread making is done with the technique of double naturalrising linked to the use of leavening agents such as brewer’s yeastor natural yeast. Brewer’s yeast dissolved in warm water is added to type 0 flour,or natural yeast is added. The dough is covered with a cloth tokeep it damp and warm, leaving it to rise in a warm, damp place.When the dough has doubled in size, it is kneaded again shapingit to sizes and forms that will be scored on the top to aid the next

rise, then covered with a cloth and set to rest until it has doubledin size. The bread is baked at a very high temperature and bakingwill be complete when the surface is a golden brown. Today theuse of kneading machines and other technical means haveaccelerated production times, not always to the advantage ofquality. Bread dough is a basis for adding ingredients and theproduction of many derivatives with seasonal and localvariations: white, red and “sfrizzoli” pizzas, bread with nuts andolives, cresciole, pizzole, tortucce (bread dough fried andsprinkled with sugar or salt), Orvieto “lumachelle” bread,Amerino anise bread, Terni fat bread rings.

BONDS WITH THE TERRITORY The widespread cultivation of soft wheat (which yields excellentflour), the presence of fine waters, the consolidated tradition ofartisan processes, the special care throughout industrialproduction, make this product an important item in theprovince economy. The widespread network of bread-making in the whole areacompletely meets the local needs and the commercial diffusionin the bordering territories. It gives the population work andincome. Some of the fine types of bread in particular, above all cooked inwood-fired ovens, are sold in the Rome area and on theTyrrhenian coast of central Italy.

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BReAd wItH MUstDESCRIPTION CHARACTERISTICS VARIATIONS Bread with must is a sweet made duringgrape harvest, when must is available. It is shaped like a ringor a bun high in the centre and thinner atthe edges, to be eaten fresh. Sliced anddried in the oven, it then becomes rusksto be eaten at breakfast.Variations: maritozzo, a long oval sweet currant bun biscuits with must, must bread sliced andreturned to the oven for toasting to rusks

BASIC INGREDIENTS AND VARIATIONS Flour, sugar, salt, brewer’s yeast, must, oil; optional: anise, raisins, eggs.

ORGANOLEPTIC PECULIARITIES This is a fragrant bread with a light golden brown crust, softand well leavened with a scent of must.

NUTRITIONAL VALUES Carbohydrates, sugars, vegetable fats, vitamin B1

ORIGIN The end of the grape harvest, one of the country jobs thatneeded a lot of labour, was celebrated with a meal, at the endof which a sweet was offered. This sweet was made by adding alittle must to the bread dough. Even the Romans made sweetbread, adding honey and raisins; in the farm tradition womenprepared sweet rolls for their husbands to put in theirhaversacks, hence the term “maritozzo” (marito=husband).

WHERE IT IS MADEThese are baked by local artisan companies and by small foodindustries that also handle distribution.

BAKING CYCLEMust bread only between October and November, “maritozzi”all year round.

DESCRIPTION OF THE PRODUCTION LOCALES It is made in artisan bakeries and pastry shops, and also insmall food manufacturing companies that managedistribution. There must be tools in common and an oven forcooking

BREAD MAKING PROCESSES AND VARIATIONSTake the bread dough and add must, sugar, raisins and gratedlemon rind. The dough is kneaded well, making small longloaves, oval buns or rings to place on a greased oven sheet, nottoo close together, covered with a cloth and left to rise for twohours. Then place in the oven and bake for 20 - 30 minutes.

BONDS WITH THE TERRITORY The intense winegrowing and wine production vocation of thearea, with its 2,500 years of grapevine cultivation brought bythe Etruscans, has linked the agricultural seasons to the foodsthat have embraced the basic food – bread - with otheringredients. Enriching bread with must and raisins was a foodintegration need for the people who went to work in the fields.The tradition is present in the areas of the province wherewinegrowing production is concentrated.

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eAsteR pIZZAoR CAKe DESCRIPTION CHARACTERISTICSVARIATIONS A traditional cake during the Easter period, long rising, roundand tall in the sweet and cheese variations.The sweet version, particularly fragrant due to the spices used,can also be eaten with pieces of chocolate or ricotta cheese. The cheese version, accompanied by eggs or cold cuts, is thetypical Easter morning breakfast.

BASIC INGREDIENTS AND VARIATIONS Sweet version: flour, brewer’s yeast, water, oil, milk, sugar, eggs,cinnamon and bitter almond rosolio (a sweet cordial), vanilla,cinnamon, grated orange and lemon peel, nutmeg. Cheese version: flour, brewer’s yeast, water, milk, eggs, oil,pecorino cheese grated and in pieces, grated parmesan cheese,pepper and salt.

ORGANOLEPTIC PECULIARITIES The top of the sweet cake is a shiny intense brown, at timesrounded, the inside is golden yellow with diffused, regularalveolation, a definite intense aroma, delicate spicy flavourand soft crumb. The top of the cheese cake is golden yellow and the inside soft,characterised by diffused alveolation with evident white partsdue to the cheese, which releases its intense aroma.

NUTRITIONAL VALUES Sweet version: carbohydrates, proteins, vegetable fats, sugars,iron, calcium, potassium, vitamins A-B-E-D, phosphorous,alcohol. Cheese version: carbohydrates, proteins, lipids, iron, calcium,phosphorous, potassium, vitamins A-B-E-D, sodium.

ORIGIN In rural tradition the Easter holidays, which at the end of Lentmark the rebirth of nature, were characterised by the collectivepreparation of sweet or cheese cakes. They were eaten untilAscension; the long preparation was accompanied by ritualgestures, conciliatory for success, and even after baking theywere blessed by the priest along with the eggs used for Easterbreakfast. In the Orvieto area, part of the leavened dough wasfashioned into “pucciarelle”, shaped like a doll or a cockerelwith an egg on their stomach, to give to children.

WHERE IT IS MADEThese are made by local artisan companies, pastry shops andsmall food industries who also handle distribution.

BAKING CYCLE Once made only for Holy Week, today it is found even severalmonths before and after Easter. The industrial cheese pizza-cake is found a good part of the year.

DESCRIPTION OF THE PRODUCTION LOCALES Once prepared only in the home, today they are made withsimilar, but not identical, recipes by artisan and industriallaboratories and by pastry shops that guarantee marketavailability.

BAKING PROCESSES AND VARIATIONS As for bread, the process is the double rising technique. Warmwater with brewer’s yeast dissolved in it or natural yeast isadded to the flour. Cover with a cloth to keep in moisture andheat, leaving it to rise in a fairly warm damp room. Then allthe other ingredients are added, depending on whether it isthe sweet or cheese version. The dough is then placed to rise in the typical deep mouldsand left to rise until the dough reaches the edge. It is then putin a hot oven for about an hour.

BONDS WITH THE TERRITORY The traditional Easter cakes, sweet and cheese, were anenrichment of the rural diet during the period when the Lentfood limitations were abandoned. They were made at home and baked in the community ovenswith a rite the whole family took part in: preparation wasduties were divided and followed recipes where thehousewives competed with each other.

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pAstA

Abandoning nomadic life and earlyagricultural work, including growing wheat,gave rise to pasta: ground wheat mixedwith water, then rolled out and cooked on

a red-hot stone. The first documents of pasta making are found inthe bas-reliefs of an Etruscan tomb in Cerveteri,decorated with knives, rolling pins and pastrywheels similar to those used today, which they usedto prepare even spelt lasagne.Apicius, a popular Roman cook, speaks of làgana:strips of thin pasta made from flour and water, theforerunners of today’s lasagne. The first pasta recipe is found in "De arteCoquinaria” for Sicilian vermicelli and macaronidating back to the year one thousand, and Palermowas the first place to make dried pasta. Jacopone da Todi speaks of pasta in his rantingagainst Boniface VIII and Boccaccio relates in “TheDecameron” that in the land of milk and honeywhere "… there was a whole mountain ofParmigiano cheese all finely grated, on top of whichstood people who were doing nothing but makingmacaroni and ravioli..." After the discovery of America pasta began beingseasoned with tomato, surpassing the traditionalsweet-and-sour and sweet-and-salty seasoning. Macaroni, made industrially, became the synonymof a linguistic mixture called macaronic poetry. Pasta has always been the main course of the poorclasses and, until the invention of the four-tinedfork in the 17th century, was eaten with the hands. In the 19th century, development of large landedestates led to extensive wheat farming with awidespread increase of mills and food industries formaking dried pasta. Production today, done prevalently by artisancompanies, uses the combination of good water,flours and the hill air to make a high qualityproduct.

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eGG pAstADESCRIPTIONCHARACTERISTICS VARIATIONS Egg pasta, called “sfoglia” because it isrolled thin, if rolled by hand or by anartisan appears as long strips of varyingwidths; if it is made industrially it is rolledinto a nest shape or small tangle. They have different names depending onthe width of the strips: lasagne 10/15 cm,pappardelle 1/1.5 cm, tagliatelle 0.7 cm,fettuccine 0.3 cm, tagliolini 0.2 cm, angelhair 0.1 cm., small squares.

BASIC INGREDIENTS ANDVARIATIONS Fresh pasta: soft wheat flour and eggs Dried pasta: durum wheat and eggs

ORGANOLEPTIC PECULIARITIES Straw yellow colour, thin and slightlyrough consistency, flavour and odour of flour and egg.

NUTRITIONAL VALUES Carbohydrates, proteins and fats.

ORIGINThe custom of kneading flour with water to create a verynourishing food has ancient and persistent origins at theItalian table. Introducing egg in place of water establishes thesocial difference between the rich and the poor, the poor usingegg pasta only on festivities or special occasions.

WHERE IT IS MADE Throughout the province there are artisan and industrial pastashops and factories for preparing fresh and dried pasta.

PRODUCTION CYCLE All year

DESCRIPTION OF THE PRODUCTION LOCALES Laboratories for fresh pasta equipped with mixer-kneadermachines, a compressor roller and a cutter, whereas for driedpasta a drying machine is needed.

PROCESSING METHOD AND VARIATIONS Pour the flour on a wooden pastry board and make a well inthe centre, put the eggs in the well and beat them, then blendthem into the flour. Knead the pasta for about ten minutes, then cover it and leaveit to set for 10-20 minutes. On a lightly floured pastry board roll out the pasta with a longrolling pin, starting from the centre, until the ideal thickness isreached (the thinner the pasta, the better it is; thickness shouldbe no more than 0.3 cm or even less). Cut it in the desired shape after letting it set for at least 15-20minutes.

BONDS WITH THE TERRITORY In the limited resources of rural economy, eggs were a sourceof income, therefore eating egg pasta was synonymous with atable laid for a festivity or special event. Rolling out the“sfoglia” and preparing fettuccine was a task that all womenlearned very early in life; it was important to know how tocook a rich substantial meal with the few ingredients available.The classic Sunday lunch was made up of a plate of fettuccinewith chicken giblet sauce followed by the roast chicken.

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CIRIoleDESCRIPTIONCHARACTERISTICSVARIATIONS Fresh or dried pasta of the ruraltradition obtained with a blendof soft wheat flour, or partlydurum wheat, and water. It is shaped like short spaghetti,square rather than round,irregular length. In artisan production there aresize variations with differingnames, according to the areawhere it is made: umbrichelli inthe Orvieto area, vesciarelli inthe Alviano area, manfricoli inthe Amerino territory, strengozziin ValnerinaBasic ingredients and variations Water, flour, a pinch of salt

ORGANOLEPTIC PECULIARITIES Fragrance of flour, flavour similar to bread dough, white, andgood consistency.

NUTRITIONAL VALUES Carbohydrates, water, proteins, mineral salts, vitamins.

ORIGINThe mixture of flour and water is one of the oldestpreparations of traditional cucina povera documented in thewhole Mediterranean area. In the diet of the Romans there was often a dish of strips of athin mixture made of water and flour. The Ciriole could derivefrom the Latin cereus (waxen), for the light colour of the pastaprepared without egg, or from the resemblance of their shapeto the eel of the same name found in the waters of the Tiber.

WHERE IT IS MADEThroughout the province there are artisan and industrial pastashops and factories for preparing fresh and dried pasta.

PRODUCTION CYCLE All year

DESCRIPTION OF THE PRODUCTION LOCALES Laboratories for fresh pasta equipped with mixer-kneadermachines, a compressor roller and a cutter, whereas for driedpasta a drying machine is needed.

PROCESSING METHOD AND VARIATIONS Handmade: mix the flour only with warm water and salt andleave it to set for half an hour. Knead small pieces of the pasta,giving it the shape of large spaghetti half a centimetre thick. Cutit with the special rolling pin or roll it up and cut it with a knife.

BONDS WITH THE TERRITORY In the persistent rural atmosphere, the basic ingredients havebecome a widespread dish on all tables. The simplest ofcondiments - garlic browned in oil – enhances the taste of pasta,while the variations with tomato and basil, truffles, mushroomsor meat sauce, and maybe adding pecorino cheese, turn this foodof rural tables into an elegant traditional dish.

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sweets

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Dark chocolate: carbohydrates,lipids, calcium, phosphorous,magnesium, vitamins D and A.

ORIGIN As early as the Roman age,Amelia was famous for theproduction of “siccum”, sun-dried fruit. According to theStatutes of the 14th century, everyyear the Amerino inhabitants hadto bring the Pope "centumpignatuli ficum" (one hundredsmall pots of figs).Since 1830, due to the initiativeof a local company, the productwas enriched with otheringredients and was sold under abrand known outside Italy, and it then became the symbol of the city.

WHERE IT IS MADEArtisan laboratories.

PRODUCTION CYCLE The cycle begins with harvesting the figs, which are then driedand bleached. From October to February/March they areprepared with the other ingredients and packaged, mainly byfemale labour, in an artisan laboratory in the historical centreof Amelia.

DESCRIPTION OF THE PRODUCTION LOCALES The laboratory has areas for processing, packaging and storingthe raw materials and the finished products.

PROCESSING METHOD AND VARIATIONS The dried figs are carefully selected and opened; they are filledby hand with toasted almonds, nuts, candied fruit, cocoa, andcrushed and put into a wheel shape with the aid of a toolcalled a ”torchietto“ (press).

BONDS WITH THE TERRITORY The Amerino area, typically hilly, encouraged a widespreadrural development with the typical farmhouse where therewere many fruit trees. Fig trees didn’t need special care andsince all their fruit couldn’t be eaten fresh, it was dried,forming an excellent, economic food supplement.

AMelIA fIGs DESCRIPTION CHARACTERISTICS VARIATIONS Dried figs, stuffed with nuts and chocolate, pressed into a brickshape or covered with chocolate.

BASIC INGREDIENTS Dried figs, dark chocolate, nuts. Variations- candied orange rind, sugar, cocoa, vanillin - toasted almonds, sugar, cocoa, vanillin - dried figs covered with dark chocolate

ORGANOLEPTIC PECULIARITIES Dried figs, round and crushed, are light brown/nut colour andhave an intense sweet nutty taste; they are rich in sugar, energeticand toning. The dark chocolate is shiny brown, with an intense fragrance anda bitter note slightly persistent at the end.

NUTRITIONAL VALUES Figs contain simple sugars, minerals and fibres. They are rich inpotassium, calcium, carbohydrates, iron, phosphorous, proteinsand sodium. Nuts contain lipids, potassium, calcium, phosphorous andmagnesium.

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NUTRITIONAL VALUES Proteins, unsaturated fats,carbohydrates and fibres.Vitamin E, magnesium, iron andcalcium.

ORIGIN The shape of the coiled snakeembodies vital strength andrepresents the cyclic nature of theyear that ends and begins.Almond trees, which don’trequire special care, give nutsthat keep for a long time and areeasy to use for the imaginativepreparation of sweets.

WHERE IT IS MADEPrevalently homemadeproduction is typical of theprovince, in particular Fabro,Castel Giorgio, San Venanzo,Amelia and Penna in Teverina.

PRODUCTION CYCLE Throughout the province, at

Christmas time and in August, the Madonna della Neve feast dayin Penna in Teverina.

DESCRIPTION OF THE PRODUCTION LOCALES It is produced in bread-making laboratories or pastry shops withordinary tools: a steel worktop, oven plate, kneader, mixer andoven.

PROCESSING METHOD AND VARIATIONS The almonds are blanched, drained and skinned, dried in aventilated oven, then they are ground and combined with thechopped citron and sugar. The egg whites are beaten until stiff butnot dry, mixed with the other ingredients and the mixture isshaped like a snake on an oven pan covered with oven paper. It isbaked in the oven at 130° for about 20 minutes.

BONDS WITH THE TERRITORY The presence of almond trees has been deep-rooted in theterritory ever since Roman times, to the extent of giving the nameto some of the places, such as Avigliano (from Avellanum); sincethe trees don’t need special care, they have always supplied areadily available food.

toRtIGlIoNe oR toRCIGlIoNeDESCRIPTION CHARACTERISTICS VARIATIONS This is a dry sweet, based on sweet and bitter almonds, in theshape of a coiled snake, traditionally prepared for the New Yearsholidays.

VARIATIONSTortella: it has the same shape, made with a very simple dough,stuffed with spiced dry fruit; it is a Christmas sweet, productionbeing limited to the areas of the province closest to Spoleto.

BASIC INGREDIENTS AND VARIATIONS Sweet and bitter almonds, egg whites, sugar, candied fruit, flour. Variations: pine nuts, rum, dark chocolate.

ORGANOLEPTIC PECULIARITIES It has a scent of almonds and a prevalent delicate taste andoiliness of dried fruit that makes the dough compact yet crisp.

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pAN pepAto DESCRIPTION CHARACTERISTICS VARIATIONS Panpepato is round with a dark brown irregular surface, compactand quite heavy considering its size; the traditional shape isreminiscent of the skullcap, the pontiff’s headdress: Panpepatowas prepared as a gift to the hierarchs.

BASIC INGREDIENTS AND VARIATIONS Nuts, raisins, cocoa, honey, almonds, hazelnuts, cooked must,candied fruit, pine nuts, lemon, sugar, flour, dark chocolate,pepper, dry Marsala wine, cinnamon; VariationsStrong coffee, whole cloves, grated orange rind, nutmeg, jam andsalt.

ORGANOLEPTIC PECULIARITIES It gives off mixed scents deriving from predominantly chocolatearomas. The flavour is very sweet, with a strong sense of honeyand cinnamon, and is tempered by the contrast with pepper thatgives it a long-lasting taste on the palate.

NUTRITIONAL VALUES Proteins, carbohydrates, iron, calcium, phosphorous, lipids andglucides Vitamins C, E, D

ORIGIN It is one of the spicy cakes with aromas from the Orient, so itcould have its origins in the middle ages, when only honey,raisins, cooked must and pepper and cinnamon were used. Prepared in the Christmas period and not containing animalfats, panpepato could be eaten on the “day of bread” – meaningChristmas Eve. It is known in both the Terni and Ferrara provinces. The oldestreference is found in the "Libro della Interada della CasaEstense” dated 1465: Duke Borso d'Este had a gold ducat placedinside each panpepato for his guests. The tradition could havecome to our area following Beata Lucia Broccadelli da Narni’spresence in Ferrara, accompanied by several noblewomen fromNarni. In renaissance, chocolate and coffee were added. When aphrodisiac properties were attributed to cocoa, the nameof the sweet was corrected from "PAMPAPATO" to "PANPEPATO", and to avoid accusations of heresy the recipes kept inthe monasteries were destroyed. The name was a contraction ofPan del Papa (the Pope’s bread), then Pan papato and thenPanpepato, with reference to the public where it was originallydestined because of its skull cap shape. The cook Guido Ghezzi

made it world famous by presenting it at the Paris Expositionin 1908. Today it is recognised as a typical Umbrian sweet.

WHERE IT IS MADE Production is concentrated in the area between Terni andNarni and is quite widespread in the neighbouring territoriestoo.

PRODUCTION CYCLE From November to December

DESCRIPTION OF PRODUCTION LOCALES It is made in artisan bakeries and in pastry shops, as well assmall food manufacturing companies that also distribute it.Ordinary utensils and a baking oven are necessary.

PROCESSING METHOD AND VARIATIONS Walnuts, almonds and hazelnuts are toasted in the oven thenput in a bowl where pine nuts, raisins, candied citron andorange, pepper, cinnamon and nutmeg are added, and last ofall flour. In another bowl honey, cooked must, dark chocolateand coffee are blended warm, then mixed with the otheringredients. The ‘pampepati’ are shaped into loaves of about 8-10 cm in diameter and weighing about 250 g each, then put ina baking tray leaving enough space between them and, oncethey have cooled, are put in a 180°C oven for 20 minutes. .BONDS WITH THE TERRITORY The fact that it was along a central route to Rome led to the useof spices from the Orient, through Venice and Ravenna,finding a good alliance with local products. One characteristicelement is the use of cooked must - ‘sapa’ - previously knownto the Etruscans and Romans, an ingredient linked toingrained wine growing and producing, and present in veryfew typical recipes, above all in central Italy.

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olIVe oIl ­

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extRA VIRGINolIVe oIl dopUMBRIADESCRIPTION CHARACTERISTICS VARIATIONS Umbria is the only region in Italy where the production of oil is DOP protected (Protected Denomination of Origin)throughout the country. In the province of Terni there are three sub-zones of DOPUmbria referring to types of oil obtained from differentcultivars mixed is specific quantities, established by thedisciplinary procedures.

Extra virgin olive oil:

COLLI AMERINI (Alviano, Amelia, Attigliano, AviglianoUmbro, Calvi, Giove, Guardea, Lugnano in Teverina,Montecastrilli, Narni, Otricoli, Penna in Teverina)Variety: Raio, Leccino, Frantoio max 85% - Moraiolo at least15% - other varieties at least 10% Maximum acidity in oleic acid, by weight not above 0.65 g per 100 g of oil.

COLLI ORVIETANI (Allerona, Baschi, Castelgiorgio, Castel Viscardo, Fabro, Ficulle, Montecchio, Monteleoned’Orvieto, Montegabbione, Orvieto, Parrano, Porano, San Venanzo)Variety: Leccino max 60% - Frantoio max 30%, Moraiolo min 15% - other varieties max 20% Maximum acidity in oleic acid, by weight not above 0.65 g per 100 g of oil.

COLLI ASSISI – SPOLETO (Acquasparta, Arrone, Ferentillo,Montefranco, Polino, Stroncone, Terni)Variety: Moraiolo 60% - Leccino and Frantoio 30% - othervarieties 10%Maximum acidity in oleic acid, by weight not above 0.65 g per 100 g of oil.Variations: olive oil, sansa oil.

BASIC INGREDIENTS AND VARIATIONS Olives: Moraiolo, Leccino, Frantoio, Raio

ORGANOLEPTIC PECULIARITIES

COLLI AMERINI Colour: from green to yellow – Smell:medium fruity – Flavour: fruity with medium or light bitterand spicy sensation

COLLI ORVIETANI Colour: from green to yellow – Smell:medium fruity – Flavour: fruity with medium bitter and spicysensation

COLLI ASSISI – SPOLETOColour: from green to yellow – Smell: strong fruity – Flavour:fruity with a strong bitter and spicy sensation

NUTRITIONAL VALUES Saturated, monounsaturated and polyunsaturated fats,Vitamins E and K

ORIGIN“Olea… prima omnium arborum est” (Columella, ResRustica)The olive tree, a centuries-old plant, hands down traditions forcultivation techniques: the combination of usefulness andharmony of the trees created the enchantment of the Umbriancountryside. The olive plant came to our country thanks to the Etruscanswho learned how to grow it from the Greek farmers, who usedit for cooking, for cosmetics, for games and even for funerals.Widespread consumption of this oil began around the 7thcentury BC. Therefore the Romans spread this plantthroughout the peninsula, guaranteeing its farming andpreservation with special laws which is why it became asymbol of prosperity and power; oil was widely used for allseasonings. The coming of Christianity increased the symbolic importance,identifying peace with the olive branch and the oil with theelement of spiritual seal in some rites. Umbrian oil was considered among the most prized and,preserved in the oil amphora, was sold widely.

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WHERE IT IS PRODUCED Throughout the province

PRODUCTION CYCLE From October to January

DESCRIPTION OF PRODUCTION LOCALES The oil mills, oil milling houses and olive presses get thisname from the pressing of olives, and there are large roomswith four processing sectors with cold or hot cycles: the sectorfor washing and removal of leaves, the crushing and kneadingsector, the centrifuge or mechanical press in traditional oilmills and lastly the centrifuge separators.

PROCESSING METHOD AND VARIATIONS To obtain high quality oil the olives must be harvested, byhand or mechanically, at the right moment of ripeness; theymust be taken the same day to the oil mill to avoid an increasein acidity and oxidation of the fats. After being cleaned and washed, they are crushed, kneaded,then centrifuged or pressed to extract the oily liquid thatbecomes oil after being centrifuged to eliminate water andother residues. The remaining olive paste is treated with a solvent, resulting insansa oil.

BONDS WITH THE TERRITORY This oil, deep-rooted in both ancient and modern culture, issynonymous of quality due to geomorphologic and climateconditions of the province: slow fruit maturation guaranteeslow acidity. The numerous rural villas along the Tiber river, from theRoman period guaranteed a substantial supply to the tables ofthe capital city. The oil amphora were loaded at numerousriver ports, in particular Otricoli, called the “Oil Port”.The olive symbol is very much present in the blazonry ofnoble families. The fame of our oil hasn’t changed since Roman times, as it isused widely in cooking, and today is recognised as aparticularly healthy food in the Mediterranean diet.

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tRUffle

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BlACK ANd wHItetRUffle DESCRIPTION CHARACTERISTICS VARIATIONS Prized black truffle “good truffle” TUBER MELANOSPORUMBITTADINI White truffle TUBER MAGNATUM PICO “Scorzone” truffle AESTIVUM and UNCINATUM TUBER(other species shown in Regional Law 6 dated 28/02/1994)The truffle is a mushroom that grows at a depth of about40/50 cm, from the symbiosis between a particular mould andthe roots of certain forest plants in the woods between 200and 1000 m altitude (oak, Turkey oak, hazel, hornbeam forblack truffle – poplar, willow and harrier for white truffle). Its shape is a round, irregular tuber, with an internal mass anda wrinkled external shell, varying in size from 1 to 15 cm.

BASIC INGREDIENTS AND VARIATIONS The truffle is completely edible after the earthy parts that aredeposited on the cortex have been carefully eliminated.

ORGANOLEPTIC PECULIARITIES The prized black truffle is black and wrinkled on the outsideand on the inside it is violet-black with thin white veining; it has a definite consistency and a very intense, acute fragrance. It can be eaten slightly warmed with a little oil and with nocheese added. The white truffle has a smooth light yellow exterior and theinside is tan with very thin white veining; its strong odour isnot easy to define and is superior to any other truffle species.It’s excellent flavour alters when cooked, so it should only beeaten raw. The summer and winter truffle is black and warty on theoutside, on the inside it is whitish tan (summer) and tan(winter), with light marbling; the fragrance is pleasing and theflavour tasty, more pronounced in the winter.

NUTRITIONAL VALUES Proteins (lysine, cystine, methionine), mineral salts,unsaturated fatty acids and fibre

ORIGINBlack gold – is another name for the truffle. Because of its highgastronomic and economic value, it has always beenconsidered a precious food and desired also for its aphrodisiacaspect, hence the Romans placed it under the protection ofVenus and Apicius put it in his De re coquinariaIn ancient times it was already considered a food of the gods, asign of nobility and power for those who could offer or eat it.The first news of it dates back to the Sumerians who used it,mixing it with barley, lentils and chick peas. Galeno, thefamous Greek doctor, pointed out its aphrodisiac power, henceanyone who invented new recipes for it was granted the rankof citizen. To the contrary, for this very reason it was removed from thetable in the middle ages, as it was considered food of witches.Umbria has always had a wealth of this prized food to thepoint where it was in the lists of goods sent to the mostimportant cities. In 1831 Carlo Cittadini scientifically classifiedthe various species.

PRODUCTION CYCLE The production cycle depends on the seasonal climate,different among the various species. Rain, above all in thesummer, is a determining factor for the development of thespores, hence the aroma. The black truffle is gathered fromNovember to March. The white truffle, typical of upper Orvieto, developscompletely between October and December when the shell isyellowish and the pulp varies from tan to brown depending onthe degree of maturation. The summer truffle is gathered inJuly and August, having a pleasant flavour but a lighterfragrance.

WHERE IT IS PRODUCED This tuber matures in spontaneous vegetation areas wherethere are arboreal species suitable for mycorrhization and thesoil is water permeable. The white truffle is gathered alongriverbanks and at times in flatland and medium hilly woods.The black truffle is gathered in the high hills and mountainsknown to the truffle-hunters who hand down this knowledgeas a family tradition: Stroncone Acquasparta, Amelia, Guardea,Fabro, Ficulle, Orvieto, Porano, Montecchio, Castel Viscardo,Allerona, Castel Giorgio, Parrano, Montegabbione,Monteleone.

DESCRIPTION OF PRODUCTION PLACES In the woods, the expert eye of the searchers recognises the“pianelli” (circular areas with almost no vegetation around thetrees) where the roots hide their fruit.

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Searching and gathering truffles must be done so that there isno damage to the truffle beds and must respect regionallegislation. The truffle-hunters with a regional license and accompanied bya dog trained to search for truffles, recognising the tuber onlywhen it is ripe, extract the precious fruit from the earth usingthe spade with a blade no longer than 15 cm and no widerthan 8 cm.

PROCESSING METHOD AND VARIATIONS The truffles are sorted by hand according to size, ripeness andspecies. They are cleaned with a special brush and a quickwash under warm running water to eliminate dirt, then theyare dried with a cloth. They are divided into super extratruffles, first choice truffles, second choice truffles, trufflepieces and truffle scraps. The superior categories of truffles arevacuum packed and quickly frozen.

All the other truffle categories and all preparations such assauces, creams, and pâtés are put in glass jars, sealed andsterilised at 120°-130°C for 30 minutes.

BONDS WITH THE TERRITORY Already used on the tables of the Romans, it has always been acomplementary food for the people who had to live from theproducts of the land. In the middle ages even pigs, a source ofanimal protein, were used to search for this tuber and today, inaddition to household use, gathering can add to familyincome while processing and marketing have becomebusiness. “I have something with neither roots nor flowers that sits onthe tables of lords”.

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sAlAMI ANdCold CUts

there are various breeds of swine, among them thesus mediterraneus. Farming this animal has beendocumented among the Romans, Greeks andEgyptians. In the Grotta Bella in Avigliano Umbro

traces were found of pork consumption dating back to 6000BC. The holm-oak and oak woods had always been the idealhabitat for pasturing this animal. The Romans made extensive food use of pork, preferring touse bovines for work in the fields. Emperor Vespasian had thepigs he kept in Umbria cared for by a group of Jews whorefined the sectioning and preservation techniques, since theycouldn’t eat this animal for religious reasons. Pliny the Elder celebrates the qualities of pork: “No animal isso useful in cooking, its meat has fifty flavours”.Experience in pork slaughtering and knowing the animal’sorgans meant that the Preci villagers were able to learnmedical art from the Benedictine monks, founders of theschool of surgery. From the 12th to the 17th century the artsof processing pork were developed, and a “norcino” –someone who lived in Norcia and had such skills – became asynonym of this type of work. “The year is long and the pig is short”, this saying wellinterpreted the need to have meat available as long aspossible, not only for home use but also for trade. This omnivorous animal, which could be fed with tableleftovers, has been raised ever since the middle of the lastcentury by families who had enough space for a food reservethat was available all year. The rite of pig slaughtering,between December and January, became a festivity for thefamilies who helped each other in cutting up the meat,preparing and salting it for making sausages; a grand dinnerwith the meats not destined for preservation was theconclusion of this work. Consumption of the pieces wasregulated by a strict calendar linked to the festivities and thecycles of agricultural work: the capocollo couldn't be openedbefore Easter and the prosciutto was reserved for reaping andthreshing, while salamis were left for the harvest. Some of thefarmers reintroduced traditional pig raising systems, with ashort feeding period, to recover local species such as theUmbrian pig or the prized Umbrian “cinturello” pig.

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Corallina is a typical Umbria salami. It’s name comes from thefact that it is put in the ‘corallo’, the soft intestine where theblend is preserved at length, characterised by fat holes andblack peppercorns. Mule testicles HEAD CHEESE: a sausage made from the parts of the head,rind and flesh removed from the boiled bones, shaped in acylindrical form, pressed on two sides and eaten in slices orcubes.

BASIC INGREDIENTS AND VARIATIONSSAUSAGE: lean and fat pork, salt, pepper, garlic and a littlewine Variations: fennel, chilli peppers and truffle. MAZZAFEGATA: lean and fat pork, pluck (liver, lungs, kidneys,heart, spleen), salt, pepper, garlic, and in some areas pine nutsand raisins are added SALAMI: lean and fat pork, salt, pepper, garlic and sometimeswine. HEAD CHEESE: meat and rind from the head of the pig andlean flesh off the bones, salt, pepper, chopped garlic,orange/lemon rind.Optional: chillies, nutmeg and cinnamon.

ORGANOLEPTIC PECULIARITIESSAUSAGE: when fresh it has a definite aroma with garlic inpredominance, pink to red colour, definite flavour, accentuatedby the aroma of pepper. Ageing gives a more definite characterto the flavours and fragrances. MAZZAFEGATA: the presence of liver gives this intense darkred salami a particularly persistent, lightly astringent taste thatsets well on the palate, softer in the variation with sugar wherebittersweet prevails. SALAMI: Salami has a very decided soft, intense flavour with apredominance of garlic, an intense red colour made darkerwith maturing, and with a very persistent taste. HEAD CHEESE: Its slice is shiny and variegated due to thepresence of rind, fat, lean and pieces of orange peel that withpepper and other spices gives an intense smell and a flavourwhere the fatty part predominates.

NUTRITIONAL VALUES SAUSAGE: animal protein, carbohydrates, fats, sodium, iron,calcium. MAZZAFEGATA: animal protein, carbohydrates, fats, sodium,iron, calcium, sugars SALAMI: animal protein, carbohydrates, fats, sodium, iron,calcium HEAD CHEESE: animal protein, carbohydrates, fats, sodium,iron, calcium, vitamins

sAUsAGeMAZZAfeGAtAsAlAMIHeAd CHeeseDESCRIPTION CHARACTERISTICS VARIATIONSThe parts of the pig that cannot be used in whole pieces areground and processed in various ways, obtaining sausages ofvarious shapes and sizes. SAUSAGE: pork meat and fat put into the intestine and tiedwith string at 7-8 cm intervals; sausages can be both fresh oraged. MAZZAFEGATA: it is similar to sausage, but longer and darkerdue to the presence of liver, and can be either sweet or savoury. SALAMI: pork meat and fat, ground fine or large and put into alarger intestine and approx. 40 cm long Variations:

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ORIGIN Martial, a Latin poet, speaks of “sal insicium, pork that isminced and preserved inside the pig’s intestine”. EmperorVespasian entrusted the care of his pigs to the Jews who hadreached Italian shores after the conquest of Jerusalem, since forreligious reasons they wouldn’t have eaten the meat. The name “mazzafegata” comes from “mezzo fegato” (half aliver) that recalls the mixed ingredients, whereas the presenceof the corallina salami in paintings shows that it was always onthe food tables. Processing head cheese witnesses the skill andcreativity in using all the parts of the pig, as mentioned in themedieval “Testamentum Porcelli”, where the pig lists thebequest of every one of his parts to man.

WHERE IT IS PRODUCEDThroughout the Terni province

PRODUCTION CYCLE Artisan production from October to February Industrial production all year round

DESCRIPTION OF PRODUCTION PLACESThere are both artisan laboratories and small industrialcompanies where processing requires rooms with steel workbenches and rooms for drying and ageing.

PROCESSING METHOD AND VARIATIONSSAUSAGE: the meats left after dissecting the more consistentparts of the pig are spiced, ground, put into the intestine andtied with string. For dry sausages a further phase of ageing isnecessary. MAZZAFEGATA: the “pluck” must be cut and minced, thenparts of the pig are added following the same packingprocedure as for the sausage,. SALAMI: Fat and lean pork is minced, in both fine and coarsepieces, seasoned, then put into intestines and left to mature ina well ventilated place. HEAD CHEESE: the parts that are used are all boiled until theyleave the bone; once the bones are removed the rest isseasoned then placed in a cloth sack, a weight put on it, andleft for a few days to drain excess liquid. This is not aged and iseaten after a few days.

BONDS WITH THE TERRITORY In the Grotta Bella in Avigliano Umbro traces were found ofpork consumption dating back to 6000 BC. The holm-oak andoak woods had always been the ideal habitat for pasturing thisanimal.

pRosCIUtto DESCRIPTION CHARACTERISTICS VARIATIONSProsciutto is the back leg of the pig: ham and shank; whenexcess fat has been trimmed it takes on its typical shape, withthe hard brown rind on one side and the black (peppered)flesh side. The pig’s front leg, treated the same way, is called the shoulder:the meat is less substantial, therefore it can be eaten before theprosciutto is ready.

BASIC INGREDIENTS AND VARIATIONSPork, salt, pepper, chillies and garlic.

ORGANOLEPTIC PECULIARITIESProsciutto must be sliced by hand, with a special knife, to keepits characteristic flavour. The long slice must have the fatty partthin and white, and the lean part compact red, not too dark,with slight veining in the centre. It’s fragrance is dominated bypepper and garlic and a salty taste.

NUTRITIONAL VALUESAnimal protein, fats, iron, calcium.

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CApoColloloINloMBetto(sMAll loIN)BACoNGUANCIAle lARdDESCRIPTION CHARACTERISTICS VARIATIONSThese are the parts of the pig having a more substantial massof muscle.Capocollo/Loin: the muscle between the head and neck, madeup of lean meat laced with fat and having a cylinder shape. Lonzetto/Lombetto (loin/small loin): Lean meat in the lowerdorsal, lumbar part shaped like a small cylinder. Guanciale (jowls): the irregular triangle shape of the jowlmuscle. Bacon: part of the stomach muscles, rectangular and flat, withrind on one side and covered with pepper on the other side, orelse rolled up and without rind. Lard: the fatty part, between the muscle and the rind, its shaperectangular and flat. All these pieces are called affettati (sliced cold pork meats)since they are eaten after being thinly sliced.

BASIC INGREDIENTS AND VARIATIONSVarious cuts of pork meat Salt, pepper, chilli, garlic

ORGANOLEPTIC PECULIARITIESCapocollo: the slice is round, slightly crushed, with large areasof quite red lean meat in a network of fat; it smells of pepper,garlic and is slightly salty. Lonzetto/lombetto (loin/small loin): the compact lean part inthe centre, light red in colour, delimited by a small crown of fat,the flavour is quite delicate in spite of the spices used. Guanciale (jowls): the surface of the slice has longitudinal stripsof meat, quite veined, alternating with fat; it is used almostalways cooked due to the prevalence of fat.

ORIGINThe Romans defined the whole pork ham , dried from the saltand the long ageing with the adjective "perexsuccus", very dry,from which the work prosciutto is derived. Both Cato and Columella illustrated how to preserve porkhams with salting and seasoning similar to what is done today.This food was sold in the markets and eaten with bread, andwas particularly useful as a food reserve for the Roman soldiersduring their conquest campaigns.

WHERE IT IS PRODUCED Throughout the Terni province

PRODUCTION CYCLE The ham is covered with rock salt. After about 20 days it iswashed in warm water or wine, then it is seasoned withpepper, at times with minced chilli and garlic; then it is to dryin a suitable room; the hole of the main bone is covered with amixture of lard and it is then left to mature in a cool dampplace for about one year.

DESCRIPTION OF PRODUCTION PLACESToday hams are produced by salami factories, pork butchersand butcher shops that at times work on a short productionline, using locally raised pork. They must have rooms suitable for salting and ageing, inaddition to the equipment for sectioning and processing themeat. The best tasting prosciutto hams are those processed in the hillor mountain areas where the air is drier.

PROCESSING METHOD AND VARIATIONSAfter the ham has been trimmed of fat it is dry-salted with seasalt and left under salt for 2 or 3 weeks with a weight on it todrain the liquids. After the salting process, the ham is washedwith warm water, then completely covered with black pepper,and minced chillies and garlic, taking care to seal the bonewith a mixture of lard, flour, salt and pepper. Maturing theproduct takes at least six months.

BONDS WITH THE TERRITORY Pork has been the main food source for the people living in thehills and mountains. Due to the scarcity of agricultural productsduring the winter, they developed the skill of using every part ofthe pig. In the middle ages pigs could graze freely in the woodsfull of acorns and their presence on the table was so importantthat their name was given to several towns: Porchiano orPortaria. Outside some of the small hamlets one can still see thebrick pig shelters – “mandrioli” – where the people livingbetween the walls could raise pigs for their own use.

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Bacon: meat with small strips of lean meat with prevalence offat, flavour definitely salty and spicy. Lard: the least prized part of the animal, made up of a strip ofwhite fat, the slice must be compact and shiny but not oily; itis used cooked, as a base for preparing other dishes.

NUTRITIONAL VALUES Capocollo, lombetto, bacon, guanciale (jowl) contain:proteins, fat, minerals, vitamins. Lard: fats

ORIGINThe custom of processing pieces of pork into salami comes fromthe need to have a reserve of animal protein available the yeararound. Consumption of salami followed a precise calendar linkedto religious festivities or to the end of work in the fields and was, asit still is, easy to take advantage of while migrating.

WHERE IT ISPRODUCEDThroughout the Terniprovince

PRODUCTION CYCLE Artisan production fromOctober to February Industrial production allyear round

DESCRIPTION OF PRODUCTIONLOCALES These sliced salamis areproduced by salamifactories, pork butchers andbutcher shops that at timeswork on a short productionline, using locally raisedpork. They must have roomssuitable for salting andageing, in addition to theequipment for sectioningand processing the meat.

PROCESSING METHODAND VARIATIONS When pork is sectioned, themore compact parts of themeat are selected for thesalting process which can

vary in time depending on the weight of the meat; after salting,the pieces are seasoned with spices and lonza, lombetto androlled bacon, are rolled up in straw paper, tied tightly withstring to keep their shape, then hung for maturing.

BONDS WITH THE TERRITORYCapocollo and lombetto were the first salamis to be openedand eaten with a cheese bread for Easter breakfast, EasterMonday and May picnics. Pig’s cheek lard cooked with sageand vinegar was a tasty alternative to the lack of more prizedmeats, whereas bacon has always been used in preparingsauces or residual juices and condiment for certain meats. Lardwas greatly appreciated in cooking as an alternative to olive oilas a condiment base and for many other practical daily uses.

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DESCRIPTION OF PRODUCTION PLACESButcher shops, pork butchers and small industrial companiesequipped for cleaning and preparation and at times roasting in awood-fired oven.

PROCESSING METHOD AND VARIATIONSOnce the pig is butchered and washed, it is opened, theintestines and bones removed, then filled with salt, pepper,garlic, liver and spleen (cut into chunks), rosemary and/orfennel. Once the animal is stuffed with seasoning and turnedinto porchetta, it is skewered on a stick from the mouthlengthwise, bound with string then put in the oven. Roastinglasts from two to five hours, depending on the size of the pig,and is checked now and then to see how it is browning.Traditional porchetta is roasted in a wood-burning oven.

BONDS WITH THE TERRITORY The geomorphological characteristics of sub-Apennine Umbriahave promoted pig husbandry and the consumption of this meatin various ways. Offering a roast suckling pig is synonymous witha great feast, whether religious or not; a suckling pig sandwichaccompanies social moments above all when summer weatherstarts. Until the middle of the last century the lunch of thecountry people who brought their goods to the market consistedof a sandwich of suckling pig wrapped in paper that they ate inthe wine shops or pubs. Today it is the most widespread, typicalstreet food that is easily found at the itinerant “porchetta” standsor where there are fairs and markets; it is eaten sliced on salt-freebread and its flavour is enhanced by the full-bodied local wines.

poRCHettA(RoAst sUCKlING pIG)DESCRIPTION CHARACTERISTICSVARIATIONSPorchetta is made with a whole suckling pigweighing no more than 90 kg, with only theknuckles and insides removed, deboned, thenstuffed and roasted in the oven.

BASIC INGREDIENTS ANDVARIATIONSPig, entrails, salt, pepper, rosemary and fennel.

ORGANOLEPTIC PECULIARITIESIt smells strongly of pork and has a herbfragrance; both the crunchy crust and the fatand lean meats of the pig are eaten. The aromas of rosemary,fennel and pepper lend a special flavour that is wellaccompanied with salt-free bread.

NUTRITIONAL VALUES Proteins and fats

ORIGINPorchetta is a young pig that was sacrificed for religious rites,rites of initiation to the cult of Venus, and ceremonies whereeating it served to stipulate peace treaties or nuptialagreements; eating the sacrificed pig was a way ofcommunicating with the divinity, attract attention and arousegoodwill. The use of a whole roast pig was widespread among thepopulations of the Apennine ridge in central Italy, among theUmbrians as well as the Etruscans. For Roman banquets it wasstuffed with various kinds of meat, then roasted. The ritual use of this food has been preserved over thecenturies and has continued to accompany social and festivemoments. It is still present today in fairs, in country partiesand in festivities where at times it is handed out free of chargeas an ancient sacrificial food.

WHERE IT IS PRODUCEDThroughout the Terni province

PRODUCTION CYCLE All year round

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Beef

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CHIANINA BeefDESCRIPTION CHARACTERISTICS VARIATIONSChianina is an Italian bovine breed raised exclusively for theproduction of beef. It is certified and guarantees food safety forthe consumer; each animal must be registered in the geneticregister. The characteristics of this bovine are a porcelain white coat andharmonious conformation that lend elegance and dignity to theseanimals called the “white giants” of the Apennine ridge. This breed has a unique genetic patrimony: rapid growth,precocity, resistant in difficult environmental conditions,commercially superior meats because they are lean and haveexcellent organoleptic characteristics. This meat is certified and guarantees food safety.

BASIC INGREDIENTS AND VARIATIONSChianina beef

ORGANOLEPTIC PECULIARITIESThe meat, from which prized cuts are obtained, is light red, tenderfibre, fine and with white, not very abundant perimuscular fat.These characteristics mean that Chianina beef is considered oneof the best beef breeds in the world.

NUTRITIONAL VALUES Protein, fats, starches-sugars, cholesterol. Lean meat with a modest calorie intake, richer in iron than whitemeats; it has important nutritional elements such as Q10,carnosine and zinc .It contains very little cholesterol and a modest quantity of linoleicacid that, associated with a polysaturated fat, is animmunostimulant and antioxidant therefore recommended forgrowing children, during pregnancy and for the elderly.

ORIGIN Documented in prehistoric graffiti and in the Umbro-Sabine area,the Chianina breed descends from the “vastus et albus” bovinementioned by Columella and by Pliny the Elder in the NaturalisHistoria and known as “Etruscan bovine”. The Etruscans and theRomans considered it most suited for triumphal processions andsacrifices to the gods because of its white coat, its beauty and itsmajestic appearance. In renaissance frescoes it is often present indepictions of processions and in Nativity. In our countryside itwas usually used for farm work but with the coming of mechanicsit risked extinction. Because of the characteristics of its highquality meat, productive recovery came about from breeders whohad carefully followed the genetic selection of their head of cattle.

WHERE IT IS PRODUCED Farms throughout the province of Terni

PRODUCTION CYCLE Since 1998 this breed has been protected by the IGP disciplinaryprocedure and by the "5R" meat consortium, a quality markmanaged by the C.C.B.I. (Consortium for Producers of HighQuality Italian Beef).From birth to weaning, following raising systems may be used:pasture, free stalling, fixed stalling. Following weaning and up to slaughter, the animals must beraised exclusively in free or fixed stalling. Production disciplinary regulations contemplate that the calvesbe suckled by their mothers until they are weaned, followed by adiet of fresh or preserved forage from grassy crops typical of thefarming area. Slaughter takes place between 12 and 24 monthsof age in the authorised centres within the production area.

DESCRIPTION OF PRODUCTION PLACES Raising should be in fixed or free stalling, with a lowconcentration of head per hectare in fields rich in medicinalplants, with company forage and concentrated feeds prevalentlyderived from cereals produced by the company to guaranteegenuine quality.

PROCESSING METHOD AND VARIATIONSAnimals ready for slaughter must have reached high weightwhile young. The meat, divided into 18 cuts with the logomarked on them, must be preserved at a temperature that willmaintain colour and consistency; they are put on sale by theslice or package in authorised points of sale that sell exclusivelybeef with the IGP mark.

BONDS WITH THE TERRITORY Historical sources and ancient sculptures and paintings seem tosupport the theory that the Chianina breed is native or at leastexisting from time immemorial. Of likely Umbrian-Etruscanorigin, for centuries it has been raised in the middle Tiber Valleyand in the Val di Chiana.

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leGUMes

legumes, edible seeds of leguminous plants, areone of the oldest resources for human food intemperate climate areas. Chick peas, lentils, faveor broad beans and the small cicerchie beans

are found dried; beans and peas are also eaten fresh.These products are the basis of Italian cucina poveraand that’s why they were abandoned when wellbeingcame to be; they were reinserted in more balanced dietsas well as in more refined cuisine because of the highprotein content and the absence of fats. Thecombination of legumes with cereals for preparingsoups means that a complete, healthy food can beeaten.

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leNtIlsDESCRIPTION CHARACTERISTICS VARIATIONSLentils, genere lens culinaris, come from pods containing tworound flat seeds; rich in protein, they are also called the poor-man’s meat, considered a highly nourishing legume; there aremany varieties and they are a symbol of abundance and well-being. They can be classified in two groups: small-seeded andlarge-seeded.

BASIC INGREDIENTS AND VARIATIONSThe most common varieties of lentils are: brown, green andspotted.

ORGANOLEPTIC PECULIARITIESLens-shaped seeds of various sizes and variegated colour. Thesmaller lentils, with a thin skin, are higher quality; the grassysmell reminiscent of straw comes out during cooking; theflavour is delicate with a floury consistency on the palate.

NUTRITIONAL VALUES Protein, carbohydrates, vegetable oils, phosphorous, iron,calcium, potassium, magnesium and vitamins A and the Bgroup.

ORIGINThis plant, which has its origin with the first agricultural workin Mesopotamia, is mentioned in Genesis when Jacob asksEdom to exchange his birthright for a plate of lentils, whicheven today is a proverbial way of indicating a disadvantageousexchange. It was a dish the Greeks and Romans had incommon: Cato wrote the rules for cooking it, while Galenopointed out its therapeutic virtues. In the 16th century, theUmbrian doctor and botanist Castore Durante recommendedto cook it always with mint “to avoid wind”. The typical shape of the seed gave its name to the piece of glasswith two convex sides called a lens. The particular climatic conditions of the mountain made theCastelluccio di Norcia lentils prized, with their reddish greenstreaked seeds, and with IGP recognition. Lentil starch has been used as a natural dye for cloth, whilecultivation residues are still used for livestock forage.

WHERE IT IS GROWN Hilly terrain or tablelands in the clayey province, rich inorganic or volcanic sandy substances.

PRODUCTION CYCLE Sown in autumn or spring, summer harvest depending on thetype and the climate conditions where it is grown.

DESCRIPTION OF WHERE IT IS GROWN Cultivation resists in areas without a tempered climate and inthe mountains, in limited highland areas where the climateand terrain give a high quality product, and it is flavourful andeasy to cook.

PROCESSING METHOD AND VARIATIONSAfter preparing the land and sowing, the fields are rolled to aidgermination; threshing is done in the summer, not after themonth of August. Depending on the altitude and climate of the growing area,cultivation can be long or short.

BONDS WITH THE TERRITORY The prevalence of hilly areas and highlands in themountainous zones allowed progressive reduction of woods infavour of agricultural crops. The humble lentil that needed nospecial attention provided a good food reserve for the farmtable, where animal proteins were scarce. The small roundshape of the lentil reminds us of coins and according, towidespread superstition, eating a plate of them at New Year’smeant prosperity for the coming year.

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BRoAd BeANsDESCRIPTION CHARACTERISTICS VARIATIONSSeed of the grassy leguminous plant Vicia faba with its typicalkidney shape and several varieties in colour and size: vicia fabamaior, for human consumption, minor or horse bean for livestockfeed. In the foothill area of the Amerini Mounts, growers betweenGuardea and Amelia have selected over the years a small ecotypethat grows on clayey soil, with no active limestone: the ‘favacottora’ an old type of broad bean also called ‘half bean’ that in2010 received the Slow Food recognition.

BASIC INGREDIENTS AND VARIATIONSFresh or dry seed of the vicia faba maior species and dry seed ofthe fava cottora

ORGANOLEPTIC PECULIARITIES Vicia faba maior: typical kidney shape about 3 cm long with goodconsistency; green with a grassy fragrance if fresh, nut colour if dry,with a definite fragrance that is released when boiled. Vicia faba, horse bean rather squat in shape, small size and colourfrom green to tan.

NUTRITIONAL VALUES Vegetable proteins, carbohydrates, fats, fibre, iron, calcium,vitamins In dry beans the values are considerably higher.

ORIGINBroad beans originated in the Mediterranean area during the ironage and were widely used until the introduction of beans after thediscovery of America. In ancient cults, the gods were consulted bylot, using broad beans, and it was believed that they contained thesouls of the dead, therefore it was advised against eating them inorder to avoid bad dreams. It was customary to toss broad beansin tombs to give energy to the defunct: even today it is customaryto make sweets based on almond paste called beans of the dead.At the beginning of June the Romans ate puls fabata, a puree ofbroad beans; this is the origin of the custom of eating broad beansand pecorino cheese during this period. In the medieval times, asreported in the municipal statues, voting was done using a blackfava for a positive vote, and a white one for the negative vote.

WHERE THEY ARE GROWNThroughout the province, excluding the municipalities wherecultivation is prohibited due to the presence of persons affectedwith favism.The fava cottora bean, according to the indications for Slow Food,

is grown by an association of farmers in the area north of theAmerini Mounts, between Amelia and Guardea

PRODUCTION CYCLE The legume is farmed from November to June/July and sold allyear round.

DESCRIPTION OF FARMING PLACESMedium or low hilly terrain, preferably clayey and with little activelimestone.

PROCESSING METHOD AND VARIATIONSAfter summer ploughing and soil cultivation work, in earlyNovember a few seeds are placed in the holes prepared at regularintervals. Fresh beans are harvested in May and sold with vegetables, to beeaten cooked. The plant, left to dry, is gathered and beaten orthreshed, the broad beans must be selected according to sizebefore packaging. Preparation for cooking is laborious and they must be left to soakovernight, then they are boiled over a slow fire until they are done.

BONDS WITH THE TERRITORY In the spring, in nearly all the vegetable gardens and fields of theprovince one can see green rows of broad bean plants, a firstproduce along with other vegetables that announce the summerharvest. The strong bond with the land as Mother Nature, which givesnourishment without the benefit of the sea, has preserved thecultivation of this archaic legume, ever present on the table, evenin small communities.In the integrated seasonal cycle of rural economy, each small pieceof land had to be used for crops. In the olive groves, where itwasn’t easy to add a crop that didn’t damage production, growingbroad beans combined three distinct requirements: weed control,obtaining food or forage, and supplying fertiliser. Recognition of the fava cottora broad bean as a select ecotype andsetting up an association of farmers was the basis for recoveringthis product from oblivion at the Slow Food occasion in theprovince of Terni.

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CICeRCHIeBeANsDESCRIPTIONCHARACTERISTICSVARIATIONSThe cicerchia bean, Lathyrus sativus,(popularly known as chickling vetch)is a legume of the Fabaceae family,known also by the name of grass pea,Indian vetch, Indian pea, white vetch,its pods containing small crushedseeds similar to pebbles. Cultivated above all in certain areas ofcentral Italy, it is also called aninsurance crop because it gives a goodyield even in arid areas.

BASIC INGREDIENTS AND VARIATIONSDry seed of the herbaceous plant

ORGANOLEPTIC PECULIARITIESThe colour of the seeds is between white and hemp, smallerand more crushed than peas, with a rough irregular surface;the flavour is a mixture of chick peas and peas with a grassyaroma while being boiled.

NUTRITIONAL VALUES Protein, calcium, phosphorous, fibre, vitamins B1, B2 and PP

ORIGINThe plant, native to the Middle East, spread in theMediterranean area because it was easy to grow in areas thatweren’t particularly fertile. For the Latin it was the cicercula –small chick pea - that, combined with other legumes andcereals, was the basis of the poor people’s diet. Since themiddle ages it has been used for soups and purees that duringthe renaissance appeared even on wealthier tables as can beseen in the texts of important gastronomists. “You have eatencicerchie" was a popular saying that meant loss of lucidity: inthe 19th century it was discovered that excessive consumptioncaused lathyrism, a disease of the lower limbs. Today, with thegeneral recovery of local crops, the chickling vetch has beenreintroduced with a peremptory indication for consumption:after soaking for 24 hours, throw out the water to avoidtoxicity.

WHERE THEY ARE GROWNMarginal, arid areas, even mixed with other more valuablecrops.

PRODUCTION CYCLESowing from February/March, harvest between July and August,and storing

DESCRIPTION OF PRODUCTION PLACESArid stony soil for cultivation, well ventilated warehouses andlaboratories for preservation and packaging.

PROCESSING METHOD AND VARIATIONSSowing, during February and March, is done in rows; the plantdoes not need fertilisers or pesticide treatment. After mowing,the plants are gathered into piles and left under the sun tocomplete drying; later comes the scamatura – separation of podsand seeds – which can be done manually or with machines. Thedry seed is sold granulated or as flour.

BONDS WITH THE TERRITORY We still remember the generosity of the chickpea workers andthe abundance of the harvest even on steep terrains. Even today there is a typical cicerchie soup, but makingsomeone eat cicerchie means offering something not veryrefined to people incapable of appreciating the value of things.In the typically Umbrian tradition of preparing the crèche, thecicerchia bean was used to mark the way of the shepherds.

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CoMMoNBeANsDESCRIPTION CHARACTERISTICSVARIATIONSThe common bean, phaseolus vulgaris, is aleguminous plant, very productive, grownfor its small beans, a whole fresh legume,and for the fresh or dry seeds that have avariable shape, size and colour. Variations: the second bean, cultivated onthe volcanic soil of the Orvieto area, theyellow bean and shell bean or green beanto be eaten fresh.BASIC INGREDIENTS AND VARIATIONSSemi-fresh or dry

ORGANOLEPTIC PECULIARITIESTypical ovoid or roundish shape, various sizes and coloursdepending on the variety, hard consistency with a more or lessthin husk, intense grassy smell while boiling and a tastydelicate flavour. The second bean is white or yellow, a full ovalshape, it cooks quickly so it keeps its nutritional properties andflavour.

NUTRITIONAL VALUES Protein, carbohydrates, iron, phosphorous, calcium, vitaminsA, B and C.

ORIGINThe Romans called this legume “phaseolus” and it wasconsidered of little worth. In the 18th century two species wereidentified: the dolichos (long) and the Vigna. The discovery ofAmerica brought the phaseolus volgaris, with more meatyseeds sown in the Vatican vegetable gardens. Due to itsabundant production, high nutritional value and the pleasantflavour, the new species spread. Its presence on all tables is documented even in works of artand in antique recipe books where it is presented along withchestnuts. The custom of cultivating the second bean waslinked to taking advantage of soil after harvesting, offering thepossibility of a second crop on wheat stubble.

WHERE IT IS GROWNThroughout the province: terrain that is fertile and poor inlime, with good irrigation.

PRODUCTION CYCLELong cycle: sowing in May and June and harvest in August Short cycle: sowing in June and July and harvest in September

DESCRIPTION OF PRODUCTION PLACESLevel land preferably in areas bordering waterways, and wellventilated warehouses for storage, and laboratories for packaging.

PROCESSING METHOD AND VARIATIONSAfter hand sowing in the “postarelle” (holes) or with a sowingmachine in the furrows, the soil is hoed and irrigated. Theharvest of dry pods is done by mechanical threshing or by handmowing and beating. The beans are left to dry in spaciousventilated rooms, then are packaged for the market.

BONDS WITH THE TERRITORY The bean dish was deeply linked to the rite of pig slaughtering:while waiting for the meat to be cut up, small pieces were cutaway in order to cook the padellaccia, a stew where the excess fatwas used as a sauce for the beans. An Umbrian proverb says”legumes that boil must not go in haste”: this is advice to putthem to boil in cold water over a low fire. Beans are anindispensable ingredient for good minestrone.Playing ‘tombola’ (a bingo type of game) during the Christmasholidays, beans were used to cover the numbers drawn. “Nun me sfaciola” is a frequent dialect expression (withreference to beans) saying that something isn’t quite right.

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lIQUeURs

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BItteR lIQUeURs ANdHeRBAl lIQUeURsDESCRIPTION CHARACTERISTICS VARIATIONSLiqueurs are a mixture of natural alcohol with essential oilsobtained by steeping medicinal herbs or fruit, then diluted withsugar syrup and at times adding colouring. The predominantpresence of medicinal herbs is a characteristic of the bitter liqueurs. Grappa is obtained from the marc extracted exclusively from grapesproduced and transformed into wine in Italy. VIPARO: well known bitter obtained from infusions of herbs, rootsand aromatic woods. NOCINO: liqueur obtained from unripe walnuts steeped in purealcohol for more than a year. AMARO AL TARTUFO NERO: liqueur obtained by steeping theblack truffle. AMARO VECCHIA UMBRIA: liqueur made with the bark, flowersand leaves of medicinal plants. SVINNERE OR VISCIOLATO: spicy liqueur based on red wine andaromatic sour cherries. GRAPPA: variety obtained from the marc of the various local grapevarieties; truffle grappa is made by distilling select marc with blacktruffle in infusion.

BASIC INGREDIENTS AND VARIATIONSLiqueurs made by steeping: alcohol; spices, medicinal herbs orfruit, sugar, water or wine. Liqueurs made by distilling: grappamade by distilling marc.

ORGANOLEPTIC PECULIARITIESLiqueurs and bitter liqueurs have a very intense, persistent odouraccording to the type of herbs or fruit of the infusion. The taste is balanced, full, intense and persistent with a strongperception of sweet. In bitter liqueurs the strong bitterness of theherbs is predominant, whereas the definite aromas of fruit emergein the other liqueurs.

NUTRITIONAL VALUESAlcohol, sugar, mineral salts.

ORIGINThe Romans spiced wine with the seeds of anise, coriander andmyrtle and sweetened it with honey (mulsum), but only in the11th century was alcohol, called fire water, distilled by an Arab. Inthe middle ages, the monks in monasteries began using herbs andstills. This was the origin of alchemy research to provide curativeremedies or long-life elixirs for the rich. So it came to be thatpotions were attributed nearly magical powers, such as the case of

the Orvieto liqueur that went as far as France with a comedy andwas even quoted by Moliere. In the 18th century continuous cycle distillation guaranteedindustrial production: liqueurs left exclusive consumption tobecome habits of normal people.

PRODUCTION LOCALESBitter liqueurs: Terni - Svinnere: Orvieto - Grappa: the entire province

PRODUCTION CYCLESeasonal for artisan production and all year for industrialproduction

DESCRIPTION OF PRODUCTION LOCALES Artisan and industrial laboratories with metal equipment,worktops and utensils.

PROCESSING METHOD AND VARIATIONSBitter liqueurs and liqueurs are prepared by infusing herbs, roots,bark, leaves or fruit in a hydroalcoholic solution and left to steepfor the time necessary according to the product to be obtained. Thepreparation is decanted, filtered, then added to the sugar and watersyrup. A variable amount of maturation time is needed to obtain aliqueur based on fruit with a more intense, mellow and harmonictaste.

BONDS WITH THE TERRITORY Umbria is a land of charms, sibyls and deep bonds with the naturalelements. Spontaneous herbs and fruits have always provided foodand health remedies. At the end of the 1500’s, in Dunarobba awoman called Ursina was known for the medicines, syrups andpotions she used to cure diseases considered incurable. In 1873 the marquis Giovanni Eroli, intellectual and gastronomistin Narni, invented Erolina, a tonic liquor awarded a prize at thePhiladelphia exhibition in 1876. At the beginning of the lastcentury, the pharmacist Morganti in Terni created a remedy basedon herbs, roots and aromatic woods to treat digestive problems:Viparo. According to its name, it “fortified and gave energy”, it wasused by the workmen in the steel mills before each work shift. The custom of preparing and offering homemade liqueurs was atradition of our grandmothers who kept the secrets of the familyrecipes to hand down to their daughters.

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