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At the CoreUnderstanding the built heritage of Surat and RanderManvita Baradi and Meghna Malhotra

The survivor —that’s how we describe Surat. A city that was burnt and ravaged,

a city whose prosperity brought to its doorstep many adversaries, a city that

bounced back with renewed vigor every time it fell. Surat has revived and

renewed itself constantly, never failing to surprise all those who looked at it or

heard about it.

The time this book chronicles is when Rander was not a part of Surat, having

developed much before the diamond city did. Rander’s loss was Surat’s gain.

When affluent Jains from Rander crossed the Tapi, they took with them their

wealth and skills and settled in Surat. From there began the story of Surat as we

know it today.

Surat’s growth and prosperity attracted visitors, both from within and outside the

country. The history of this region is dotted with incidences of loot on one hand

and growth and development on the other. As the port city, it was the hub of all

business activity. It is said, flags of 84 countries used to fly high at the Surat port.

The initial settlement grew; Suryanagar became Surat; the urban fabric became

finer and the city prospered. The foreigners left behind a tangible impression on

the city in the form of built heritage.

‘At the Core’ shows the reader images of motifs, buildings and streets of Surat,

otherwise easily lost to the eyes, in a way they have hardly been seen. The

understanding of growth and settlement in this region that has been detailed

here makes the book an eye-opener.

Buildings of heritage value identified in one of the wards of Inner City of Surat

At the C

ore:Understanding the built heritage of Surat and R

anderM

anvita Baradi and M

eghna Malhotra

At the CoreUnderstanding the built heritage of Surat and Rander

Manvita Baradi and Meghna Malhotra

Published By:

Urban Management Centre (UMC)With Support From Surat Municipal Corporation

This book is published, produced and distributed by the Urban Man-agement Centre, January 2011. (Urban Management Centre is registered

under Section 25 of the Indian Companies Act 1956)

B-14 Ravi Tenements, GST-Chenpur RoadNew Ranip, Ahmedabad: 382470, India

Tele/Fax: +91 79-2754 5303Website: www.umcasia.orgEmail: [email protected]

Text: Manvita Baradi, Meghna Malhotra Research Support: Anjali Kadam Text Assistance: Chitra NairBook Design: Vinu Chaitanya

Project advisors of the documentation and grading of heritage build-ings of Surat: Nimish Patel and Parul Zaveri. Photographs in this book have been taken by the staff and associates of UMC during the project period in August 2008- 09 and December 2010.

Maps Courtesy: Surat Municipal Corporation; Spin System Private Limited

© Urban Management Centre ISBN 978-81-909120-1-3

Cover Photograph: Exquisitely designed balcony of a residence in

Salabatpura in Surat

Right Hand Page Photograph: A girl gang in Rander is all smiles while posing for the camera

At the Core: Understanding the built heritage of Surat and Rander 3

Dedicated to the efforts of SMC towards‘getting the city back to its people’

AcknowledgementsWe are grateful to Ms S Aparna, IAS, Commissioner, Surat Municipal Corporation, who has graciously supported us through this project. Her personal support and interest helped create the enabling environment. We applaud her vision to forward the cause of heritage conservation in the city of Surat and unequivocal support to all the ideas discussed in initiating such a process. We are grateful to her for encouraging us to bring out this publication. We are thankful to Mr CY Bhatt, assistant commissioner, SMC, for his tireless support and providing necessary information. We also thank Ms Bhamini Mahida, the chief curator of Sardar Vallabhbhai Patel Museum, SMC, who worked alongside our team and facilitated the exercise.

This entire work would not have been possible without the mentoring and guidance of noted architect-conservationists and project advisors Mr Nimish Patel and Ms Parul Zaveri. Their national and international experience has given us the perspective which has helped us in developing ideas for Surat.

Ms Anjali Kadam, assistant professor for the architecture and settlement conservation program at CEPT University’s School of Architecture, provided valuable inputs to understand the built typology of the city and in training the documentation team. Ms Falguni Desai, Surat-based architect who is deeply motivated with the city’s growth and the river systems, provided all the logistic and moral support to begin work in complex city environs. Without their support, this study would not have been possible.

Mr PK Ghosh, IAS (retd.), advisor to the government of Gujarat for preparing a draft Heritage Policy for Gujarat state, has discussed the development paradigm. His love for history and understanding of culture provided clues for further probe. Timely questions raised by Mr Debashish Nayak have been valuable in understanding urban conservation trends in the county. Many thanks to Mr Sarosh Wadia and Ms Azmi Wadia, Surat-based architects who also provided interesting insights into the Surat history. Mr Maharshi Desai shared his knowledge of GIS with our team and initiated us into the project’s complex computing and GIS-based analysis.


People’s participation has played a major role in the success of this project. The councillors of Surat ensured that the local people got involved and that their ideas were incorporated in the study. We would not have been able to get through the consultation and discussions without their support. These discussions brought to the table the views and insights of eminent personalities of Surat, including artists, writers, poets and photographers.

We are extremely grateful to Mr Rajesh Mehta, great grandson of well-known photographer Mr VN Mehta, for sharing valuable historic photographs taken by the latter in Surat in early 20th century. Mr Ramesh Nagarsheth and Mr Navinchandra Nagarsheth have shared with us their valuable collections of old property documents dating back to the 17th century. We gained better understanding of the lifestyle and house design while studying their house.During this project we made Surat our home. UMC’s project office in Surat was enthused by the energy of architecture students who were eager to learn and give the project their best. Sincere thanks to all who worked to make this project a success.

We would also like to thank the following individuals from various walks of life for their generous and varied contributions to the report.

Mr Bakul Tailor, journalist; Mr Bhagwati Kumar Sharma, writer; Mr Chandrakant Purohit; Mr Janak Naik, author-publisher; Mr Ratilal Anil, editor-Kankawati; Professor Babubhai Desai, and Mr M Suleman Michhila, the principal of the MMP Madressa, Rander

Surat Municipal CorporationRander: Babubhai Kapadia, corporator; Pravin Mali, corporator; HM Patel, deputy engineer; RP Patel, asst. engineer; DA Patel, asst. engineerCentral Zone: Mr Nitin Kumar Bhajiyawala, corporator; Mr Deepak Africawala, corporator; Hiralben Panwala, corporator; Babubhai Shethna, former corporator

Documentation and survey teamSaroj Badgujar, Deepa Raval, Swapna Deshmukh, Karan Agnihotri, Awadhesh Pathak, Shivnath Patil, Vinay Parmar, Nidhi Shah, Sambit Pradhan, Hemangini Maisuriya, Hansal R Lakdawala, Jitendra Subulpura, Bharat Patel, Krushnakant Parmar, Tejash Khilawala, Vipuja Panchal, Hemali Kapadia, Kavita Marfatia, Jitendra Menghani, Mital Vadoriya, Haresh Vadoriya, Gopi Desai, Abhishek Dhabuwala, Ipshita Garnaik, Dishant Jariwala, Milind Jhaveri, Vipul Kathiriya, Nikhil Patel, Mohammed Patherya, Aakash Savani, Hardik Shah, Mihika Shah, Jwalant Patel, Ankur Desai, Shayar Gandhi, Jitendra Sabalpura, Pratik Joshi, Kinjal Shah, Alok Bhati, Tulsi Patel, Hakimmuddin Sadikut, Satyam Pitroda, Pratik Brahmabhatt, Vicky Achnani, Sneha Ramani, Priyanka Kanhere, Sejal Parekh, Dimpi Chokshi, Khyati Dave, Noble George, Ankita Thaker, Satabarta Nandy, Bhavin Shah, Geeta Baldaniya, Atit Kothari, Kauser Lanewala, Bharat Patel, Shayar Gandhi, Shabbir Daginawala, Kasmin Devashrayee, Pathik Gandhi, Rajeshwary Modi, Nirav Mistry, Prashant Jadav, Mansi Parekh, Rashmita Jadav, Sanjay Choksi, Deepti Nanawati, Bhavesh Patel, Usha Kiran Jarik


Contents

• From The Commissioner’s Desk

• Foreword

• Preface

• History

• The Settlements

• House Form

• Elements & Motifs

• Process & Learning

• Glossary

• Bibliography

• UMC Projects & Publications

8

10

12

16

42

68

126

160

172

174

175

Surat, situated along the banks of River Tapi, is a historic city with a vibrant urban character. The origin of the city dates back to 300 BC. Surat was ruled successively by the kings from Sauvira (Mahabharata period), and other Hindu rulers till 1194 AD. Thereafter, till the late 18th century, Ahmedabadi Sultans and rulers from dynasties like Tu-ghlaq, and Mughal among others held sway over the city. After the advent of the Portuguese, the British arrived first at Surat in 1608 AD. The Dutch and the French also made Surat the base for their trad-ing operations. Surat has thus been an important trading port on the western coast. Flags of 84 countries were seen flying on their ships indicating the vast range of trading partners that patronized Surat. It is said that the province surrounding Surat has acquired the name of "Choryasi Taluka" (84 talukas) since then.

These varied economic interactions have left an indelible impression in the form of socio-cultural practices and architectural monuments and structures all over Surat, more so within the walled city area and the adjoining village of Rander. Notable architectural structures in-clude the Surat Fort constructed by Khudawand Khan on behalf of Sultan Mahmood III, Mughal Sarai constructed during the period of Emperor Shah Jahan, the cemeteries of the English, the Dutch and the Armenian, the Nav Saiyed Mosque, Saiyed Idris Mosque, Mirza Sami Mausoleum, Chintamani Jain Temple, the Fire Temple of the Parsi community and a host of other religious and cultural buildings. European architecture is represented by the Tower, the Andrews Li-brary and the Sir J J Training College.

In addition to these, there are a large number of lesser known but equally significant buildings in terms of heritage and architectural value. Most of these buildings have been in the same family for sev-eral generations. Apart from their architectural style and façade, they also demonstrate the building and construction technology that was used in the 19th and early part of 20th century in Surat before the advent of the RCC (Reinforce Cement Concrete) age. The layout and interiors of these buildings reveal glimpses of the lifestyle enjoyed by families belonging to different communities in Surat, and throw light on various aspects such as culture, beliefs, social norms, status and role of women, trading practices, etc.

From The Commissioner’s Desk


However, with the passage of time and the increasing pressure on ur-ban land, inevitably, many of these buildings have been irreversibly modified, and in some cases, torn down to make way for buildings found more suitable for modern urban life. Familiarity and compul-sions of everyday living also erode the appreciation of these architec-tural gems.

A precious part of Surat’s urban history is being rapidly damaged and is lost for the future generations. With a view to record this invaluable heritage, before it is irretrievably lost, the Surat Municipal Corpora-tion decided to commission a survey of the significant heritage struc-tures in Surat.

The survey was assigned to the Urban Management Centre, Ahmed-abad, in July 2008. The team, under the able leadership of Ms Manvita Baradi and the inspired guidance of Shri Nimish Patel, has carried out an admirable exercise of recording not only the architectural features but also some interesting socio-cultural aspects of almost 2,900 build-ings in Surat and Rander. It is encouraging to learn that UMC is now coming out with a publication titled “At the Core: Understanding the built heritage of Surat and Rander” based on this exercise. SMC has also engaged Urban Space Consultants, New Delhi, to help formu-late an appropriate policy to enable and encourage the conservation of these significant heritage structures.

We are looking to create an enabling policy framework backed by ap-propriate regulations that will actively promote the preservation of this heritage. At the same time, it would be our endeavor to create intrin-sic viability through policy instruments that will protect the economic value of the property. This will necessarily entail financial support to conservation efforts, education and counseling among owners of heri-tage properties and creation of collective civic pride in the ownership, conservation and appropriate usage of these heritage structures.

Our initiatives to focus on Surat’s beautiful architectural inheritance would not have been possible without the constant support and ad-vice of Surat city mayor Shri Ranjitbhai Gilitwala, standing committee chairman Shri Mukeshbhai Dalal and Shri PK Ghosh IAS, (Retd.),

chairman, Special Committee on Gujarat Built Heritage Policy. I also acknowledge the groundwork and unstinting support of Shri CY Bhatt, assistant municipal commissioner, Ms Bhamini Mahida, chief curator, SMC, and their team during the survey.

On behalf of the Corporation, I commend the publication of this book and sincerely hope that the book will inspire greater appreciation and positive action to retain, conserve and enhance the architectural heri-tage of our beautiful Surat city.

S Aparna, IASMunicipal CommissionerSurat Municipal Corporation

Surat, 6th August, 2009

Ms. S Aparna, currently working as Commissioner, Surat Municipal Corpora-tion, is an officer of the Indian Administrative Service with two decades of experience across various sectors of public administration. During her tenure in the Government of India, she was intensively involved in addressing a range of issues facing urban planning and governance in India today. She was associ-ated with policy formulation relating to land use, regional planning, provision of affordable housing, conservation of urban heritage, challenges to urban en-vironment, and urban infrastructure.

In Surat, she has chosen to focus on sustainable and inclusive development in the city. Apart from infrastructure, attention is being focused on heritage enhancement as well as development of cultural and recreational spaces in the urbanscape.

Conservation of India’s cultural heritage is the responsibility of every Indian. The range, the diversity, the richness as well as the intricacies, which reflect the development of a society over centuries of its exis-tence, are important sources of knowledge. Conservation and continu-ity of this significant historic record, with its vibrancy and relevance even in today’s context, warrants prioritized attention.

The Surat Municipal Corporation, through its dynamic commissioner, Ms S Aparna, and her team, has taken the long-awaited initiative of addressing the issues of built heritage of Surat in the context of its cul-tural heritage.

The relevance of our built heritage is fully revealed only when it is positioned within the context of the historic understanding of the cul-tural heritage of the region. The layers it comprises, the processes of change it has faced, accommodated and rejected, with the resultant manifestations are a testimony to the continuing relevance of the built heritage. Being the most visible aspect of the cultural heritage, its sig-nificance as a vital engine of appropriate growth, incorporating both continuity and change, cannot be undermined.

Such settlements, irrespective of their sizes, age or complexities, are characterized by the coming together of a combination of natural elements of heritage, and rooted in them, the manmade elements of heritage. Together they give the settlement its heritage fabric, which is its unique identity. It is the heritage fabric which differentiates one settlement from another. Consequently, the identity of Surat is differ-ent from that of Rajkot, or of Jamnagar from that of Bhavnagar, and of Ahmedabad from that of Hyderabad.

At a lower scale, this also holds true for every mohalla and sheri of each settlement. They acquire their identities from their own heritage fabric, but are rooted within the holistic heritage fabric of that settle-ment. The Surat Heritage Initiative for the GIS-based mapping of liv-ing heritage of Surat, for improved heritage management, began from such a scale. The Urban Management Centre (UMC), Ahmedabad, assigned with this daunting task, has begun in right earnest and in a sequential manner. This approach helped UMC to develop a familiari-

ty with parts of Rander and inner city of Surat; a deeper understanding of its heritage has begun to emerge. The processes adopted by UMC started with a reconnaissance survey so as to identify the requirements of the detailed survey and the questionnaire. The identified survey team was given appropriate orientation by a conservation expert, who also accompanied them on a few occasions to ensure the authenticity of the received information. A review of the initial survey results led to re-finement in the questionnaire and helped the team evolve a broad but identifiable spectrum of the typologies of its architecture, the building elements and true finishes.

The documentation also threw light on influences of styles of archi-tecture, namely local traditional, Arabesque, Colonial and Art Deco. UMC is among the first contributors to develop a deeper understand-ing of the heritage character of Rander and the inner city of Surat.

Further understanding of the buildings, including their ownership characteristics, building use, length of stay of present occupants and their links with the original owners, etc. kept increasing with greater engagement. The analyses of the physical attributes of the buildings revealed the order and the typologies of the plan layout organization, the sectional and elevational characteristics, as well as of the elements of a typical plan and its spaces such as otlo, parsal, vachelo, rasodu, vado, etc. The nature and variety of other elements like columns and surface treatments also added to the overall understanding of the built heri-tage. Several inferences emerged. UMC established that the heritage of Surat and Rander is not only varied and rich, but also provides ex-tremely important references to help the Surat Municipal Corpora-tion in conserving it, and in providing assistance in its continuity with congruence, incorporating the dynamics of changes.

Our cultural heritage gives people a sense of belonging through their links with the past and its continuity. A sense of pride for their own heritage is the direct outcome of their emotional connections with it. It also has the potential to provide them with the motivation and the direction to develop without leading to disintegration of the still sur-viving social fabric.

Foreword


The conventional approach to conservation of built heritage starts with a listing of heritage buildings/areas/precincts to mark them as protected properties and then puts them under the cover of protection at varying scales, as it is believed to be in the best interest of the city’s heritage. This well-intentioned approach has seen quite an adverse im-pact in many cities of India. A majority of the population aspire for their exclusion from this list, fearing curtailment of their freedom to make alterations in their properties to accommodate the dynamics of changes in their lives.

The Surat Municipal Corporation and the Urban Management Cen-tre, fully aware of this inherent danger in pursuing the conventional approach, have chosen to alter the approach to remove the stigma of such heritage listings. The buildings of Rander and the inner city of Surat, with significant heritage value, are proposed to be listed as “properties worthy of heritage assistance” from the Surat Municipal Corporation. This approach and the initiative are an extremely bold step, and have vast potential for becoming an effective role model for other areas of Surat, and subsequently for other cities in the country.

The road ahead appears to be full of excitement, hard work, more rev-elations and understanding even as heritage conservation becomes a movement, and eventually, a way of life for the people of Surat, and elsewhere.

Nimish Patel Ahmedabad

Parul Zaveri & Nimish Patel established Abhikram, a Planning, Architecture, Conservation and Interiors consultancy firm in 1979, on their return to India, with a view to explore a design direction and design process which make built environment functionally, psychologically, environmentally and spiritually more balanced, contextual and comfortable. Committed to conservation of In-dia’s cultural heritage, revival and continuation of the use of the traditional ma-terials, technologies and the skills of traditional craftsmen, Nimish Patel and Parul Zaveri have conducted conservation field studies for Udaipur, Amber and Jaipur in India. They have also won several awards for their professional works, and continue to share their knowledge with students and professional communities on two areas of importance−sustainability and conservation of the national asset of the knowledge base in built environment.

Surat is one of the fastest growing cities in the region. Images of textile mills, diamond polishing units, of a city in haste to catch up with the other mega cities –make up Surat. Historically too, Surat has been a city of riches and it has been able to carry the image till date. Our heritage management project has revealed that the opulence of Surat is visible in its architecture, but it goes unnoticed by someone who is bothered about negotiating traffic through the busy streets. For all of us at the Urban Management Centre, this heritage management proj-ect with Surat Municipal Corporation has been a wonderful journey of discovering a city.

As we discovered each street, we were mesmerized by the links a city could have with the past. What is intriguing is that the past reaches out into the present through the beautiful facades, elements which make them, their motifs. Surat’s settlement pattern and morphology is an example of medieval urbanization. The port city’s morphological evo-lution and urban development lay in money mechanisms, the mercan-tile population and trading communities settling in the city.

The Surat Municipal Corporation is one of the most progressive local governments in the country. The Jawaharlal Nehru National Urban Renewal Mission ( JnNURM) initiated by the Government of India, aims at addressing the challenges faced by cities of India and provides a significant funding for cities to access. The JnNURM also lays empha-sis on urban renewal and heritage conservation in cities. Surat Munici-pal Corporation is also a recipient of funds under the JnNURM. The city has now taken the initiative to protect and conserve its valuable heritage. UMC recognizes the role of city governments in conserva-tion of heritage not only in terms of preserving the sense of identity of a city but also in its contribution to enhancing local economic de-velopment. UMC initiated the study of GIS-based mapping of living heritage in the inner city for the Surat Municipal Corporation.

With the changing pattern of cities and increasing demand of land, conservation of heritage has been a challenge to all levels of govern-ments, especially local governments. UMC believes that heritage structures and older areas of the city should be looked upon as assets rather than as liabilities because they represent the history of commu-

nities, embodying their tradition, heritage and culture through archi-tecture and the urban form. City governments should act as facilitators in inner city revival. Most of the heritage places lie in the city centers and under the jurisdiction of city governments. The city governments have easy accessibility to these people, giving them the advantage to initiate heritage conservation.

These are challenging times for architectural conservation, especially in the context of residential architecture. Lifestyle has changed; as-pirations of people have changed too. We believe in people-centric solutions that can reflect the needs of today and the building character reflecting the fervor of the past. We can preserve these legacy buildings and the value that they have, retaining the integrity of the context and make them useful to the present context, beginning with understand-ing the tangible and intangible values that they offer. There is a need for policy and guidelines supporting this approach to conservation.

Through this publication, we aim to share our experience of documen-tation of inner city areas of Surat. It speaks of our dialogue with the community−a process of interaction and exploration. We would rather call this book the first version of the understanding, and we accept there will be more versions as we drill deeper.

This work does bring to the forefront some questions for thought and action. Why is the dilapidated housing stock not being restored despite housing being a scarce commodity? Everyone appreciates the beauty of these structures, then why is maintenance neglected? Why did the communities invite us into their structures to share how these built forms are organized, how they look like and how they function? In this discussion between development and preservation, what can the owners do? What can city governments do? What other resources can be tapped? How can financial institutions support such a massive task of conservation? How can they afford living with a legacy and ensure that it is relevant to the present needs?

The book is one of the attempts to get the city back to its people. During house to house surveys for documenting built heritage, people enthusiastically gave us tours of their houses, inner and upper rooms.

Preface


Our attempt was to understand the city through the eyes of the people who have made Surat as we know it, rather than as a record of events. The original residents and communities live and breathe in these spac-es; their lives and the built form seem to come together as the residents have a sense of belonging to the place. A Surti relates to a building through its presence, design and history and how it supports his way of life. Our discovery led to meetings with interesting people in the city. We met historians, writers, journalists, poets, architects and pho-tographers. On one such visit, we met Rajesh Mehta, great-grandson of Shri VN Mehta who agreed to provide old photographs of Surat city, taken by the latter in the early 20th century. We are indebted to Rajeshbhai for his generosity.

We also met Shri Rameshbhai Nagarsheth, 75, the 10th generation descendant of the Parekh-Nagarsheth family of Surat. Rameshbhai inherits the haveli –where they are currently residing, which is more than 400 years old. They still have a basement, which they opened and showed us. This basement ended on the other side, at the bank of River Tapi. This was used by the Nagarsheths to flee and protect themselves and the wealth from the frequent attacks of the Marathas. Many buildings seem to have this design. There may be basements connecting together and forming kind of streets network. But, this would require more detailed study of many such buildings.

The book is a visual journey of the built heritage for a study designed in a consultative mode. A spectrum of viewpoints was approached through workshops and discussions. Peer learning, similar experiences and studies were drawn in. At the outset of the program, an appeal to the residents was issued through print media to call for coopera-tion, and provide relevant information to the team while conducting reconnaissance surveys, household surveys, undertaking photographic documentation, conducting interviews and building typology studies. Political will and local insight is extremely important, hence consulta-tions with the municipal councillors and senior citizens of the wards were held. The team rummaged through literature and publications associated with the city, and met other eminent citizens from diverse walks of life to track the cultural and historic activities in the city.

We embarked on a twofold survey process to fine-tune the documen-tation. In the first phase, a detailed reconnaissance survey was carried across the entire Central Zone. We photographed the structures from outside, marked survey numbers and identified the buildings on map. The recce helped us identify buildings for detailed study, and we found a whopping 4,450 properties worthy of attention. The mere number instils awe for the city. For the detailed survey we screened the stock and zeroed upon 2,417 properties in the Central Zone, also known as the walled city of Surat, and 574 properties in gamtal or inner city areas of Rander.

We put together a team of surveyors, who were committed architects and enthusiastic architecture students. Survey of living heritage is a specialized activity that requires specific orientation; we trained our team for the documentation process. A training manual was our start-ing point which laid the foundation for detailed survey.

Our survey revealed that almost 10% of the properties were completely vacant and approximately 993 floors in the entire Central Zone were lying vacant and unutilized. Even if we take an average floor space of 200 sq ft, this comes to a built-up area of approximately 0.2 million sq ft, posing a threat to valuable housing stock of dilapidation due to non-use and improper maintenance.

What is required is to incentivize the process of heritage conserva-tion. Many heritage buildings were being demolished even during the survey process. This documentation cannot remain a one-time pro-cess and needs to be updated regularly. In order to provide appropriate technical support and incentives to these buildings, all the documented buildings have been categorized as per their heritage value, status of current use and structural stability. The last section of the book de-scribes methodology and processes adopted in the project. What is fascinating is the commitment the city government is showing towards conservation of people’s buildings.

Manvita BaradiFounder Director, Urban Management Centre

History

Opposite page:Celebration of Indian independence on the waters of Tapi. Each boat had the tricolor tied to its mast or to a pole kept on the boat Photo by VN Mehta; Courtesy Rajesh Mehta

300BC 0 1500 1510 1520 1530 1540 1550 1560 1570 1580 1590

300 BC till 185 BC Mauryan Empire in Laat Pradesh (present day South Gujarat)

1500-1520 AD Surat colo-nized by Brigus or the king from Sauvira

1225 AD Arabs from Kufa settle in Rander, overpower Jains and establish their rule

1496-1521 AD Malek Gopi, a rich trader, settles in Surat and undertakes development

1546 AD Sultan Mahmood III, king of Ahmedabad, gives order to build a strong fort

1608-1615 AD Many battles fought between the English and the Portuguese sailors for control over Surat waters

1573 AD Akbar marches to Surat. The fort surrenders after six-week-long fight

200 AD Report of set-tlement, predominantly of Jains, in Rander

1194 AD Kutb-ud-din, the general of Muhammad Shahb-ud-din Ghori, penetrates up to Rander town

1512 AD Surat is burnt by the Portuguese

1500 AD Importance of Rander declines on account of raids by Portuguese. Surat begins to assume importance

1373 AD Emperor Firozshah Tughlaq (1351-1388) builds a fort at Surat

610 AD Western Chalukyas conquer

Laat Pradesh


Rander Rander, on the western bank of the River Tapi, is now one of the 38 administrative wards of the Surat Municipal Corporation. However, it was an older settlement than Surat and served as one of the oldest ports on the western coast of India, even before the port at Surat was developed. It had trading connections with many countries in Africa, Middle East and Burma.

Folklore suggests that Rander was named after Sun God’s wife Ran-nade. The settlement was developed since 200 AD and was predomi-nately of the Jain community involved in trading. Rander’s commercial importance attracted the Arabs from Kufa, who overpowered the local Jains and took over the place. They were the new comers to the land and successful merchants, trading with foreign countries. As the pros-perity of Rander declined in the 16th century, Surat began to assume importance. The port of Surat enjoyed great prosperity in the 16th, 17th and 18th centuries.

These trading connections influenced the living patterns as well as the architecture in Rander. These connections are still strong today with a large percentage of people who have migrated or are working abroad, retaining their ancestral property here. There is a mix of Hindu and Muslim communities. The lifestyle of the residents is laid-back and relaxed. In fact, in spite of its proximity with Surat, Rander seems to be almost frozen in time.

In 1970 AD, Rander was added to SMC limits. According to Census 2001, Rander has a population of 86,047, and is spread over an area of 5.12 sq km.

Built fabric of Rander

An evening in Rander: The view of a street

Surat was predominantly a trading city. Hence, there was always a requirement for skilled workers and labourers, which translated into an influx of migrants. In the busy months of June-October, the city became so crowded that lodging was scarcely to be found. To fulfil this requirement, there evolved a typology to house the trading com-munity irrespective of social status or community. This building type which served as residential quarters for skilled and unskilled workers was concentrated along the trade centers. This is very similar to the chawl building type found in Bombay. The lodging or boarding house also finds mention in old literature. People from the surrounding areas who had to regularly visit Surat on business preferred to stay at these lodging and boarding houses. Sometimes, farmers would stay here for work for a few months and go back to harvest and sow their fields. These were usually six or seven single rooms, placed linearly along a corridor with shared toilets. These could be single storeyed or could rise to a maximum of three storeys.

Group Housing

The most interesting type of residential housing is the twin house phenomenon. Here, two exactly identical units were placed next to each other sharing a common wall, like a twin or a mirror image. In this case, the first room or parsal is shared between the two houses, without the intermediate wall. This achieves a long, huge room, unlike anything seen in traditional settlements. This might have been neces-sitated for placement of long machines or a loom.

This condition can also sometimes happen on the first floor. Here, the room above the parsal becomes one long room, shared between two houses. This space also seems to be some kind of workplace. A lot of these houses had saris spread out for jari embroidery. These houses usually had the staircase very near to the main entrance, which allowed artisans or workers to enter the house and reach the first floor work-shop without interfering with the privacy of the residents.

Another type of similar housing is achieved through multiple repeti-tion of a building unit. This residential unit could be repeated as many as six times horizontally, and worked almost like modern day flat sys-tem. These could rise up to three floors. Each unit consisted of two or three rooms. The facade created by incorporating the frontages of all the units gave the impression of a very large building which was elabo-rate and imposing. Constructing such units for rent or sale must have been another lucrative business. Weaving and embroidery work have been happening in Surat for almost three centuries. This certainly has had an impact on the house form.

Residences


Parsal Rasodu

Ordo Ordo

OrdoOrdo

OpenTerrace

VadoOtlo

Section BB' Front Elevation

0 1 2 5m

Parasal

RasoduVado

Vado

Otlo

Rasodu

Bath

Bath

WC

Store

Store

WC

-

WC

Ordo

Ordo

Ordo Ordo

Ordo Ordo

Ordo Ordo

WC

WC

WC

WC

First Floor Plan Ground Floor PlanSecond Floor Plan

B

B'

B

B'

B

B'

Open Terrace

0 1 2 5m

Plan and elevation of a typical twin house

Getting Rander municipal councillors and citizens on board


d,e,f,g. Surveyors interact with residents


In my 16-year stay before leaving the city for higher studies, Surat hardly seemed sona ni murat. It was only when I returned after gradu-ating as an architect that certain peculiarities caught my attention for the first time. The structures did not have the refinement of carving that some of the houses in Ahmedabad had, nor were they spatially unique. But, the fact that they were mildly crude in construction and tremendously varied—with almost baroque bearings— began to exert its own charm. The why and how of the variations that such struc-tures threw up were quite intriguing. Stained glass windows, rough kota floor with intricate china mosaic, the wave in the louvers and the arched roof balcony made the structures more appealing.

The other buildings were being brought down and there was a strong urge to capture them on film. I was drawn to ‘Shanivari’, the weekly market that was set up on Saturdays, in search of pieces of stained glass, lamps and locks from the era bygone. Some say, the history of Surat can be traced to 1,000 years ago, or even beyond. A piece of an old map kicked off the journey towards tracing the life of this city.

In the following years, the crevices caught my attention and the unique and intact watershed urged me to trace the city through its river – the essential watershed and geomorphic footprint. The serpentine Tapi with its tributaries made a near perfect academic base.

This is a land of deep myths and untraceable layers. According to folk-lore, there’s a place near Ashwinikumar called ‘Gupta Ganga’. While the whole of India goes to Ganga to wash their sins, Ganga comes to Tapi to bathe and shed her load of sins.

Now, the ghats along the banks of Tapi are closing, hidden behind the embankments that try once more to tame her, not knowing that she holds the power to defy all human intervention. She can claim the space she rightfully holds and reshape what we think is of our mak-ing – this city and its future. Her waters must know the sound of the hulls as well as the horses that carried the looters from Shivaji’s army. What can we call this book? A plea for a pause... so that we can dwell a little more in nostalgia; freeze some bits of history so that those les-sons are not erased? Or is it just our humble effort to ensure that in the cycle of life, the link between what was and what is yet to come remains forever alive and strong?

Falguni DesaiFalguni is a Surat-based architect, pursuing PhD in urban policies affecting

river-city interface. She was involved in UMC’s project of documentation and

grading of heritage buildings of Surat.

On The Course Of Tapi

Alabaster: Translucent soft stone which can be easily carved into detailed shapes

Architrave: The beam that rests on the capitals of the column

Baithak or Diwan: Living space. On the first floor, it has openings to the streets either directly through a series of full height windows or the balcony. It is an elaborately ornamented space with expensive wall and floor finishes and a wooden false ceiling with several wall niches to hold lamps and other items. It is a formal space to entertain guests and conduct business meetings

Balustrade: A row of repeating balusters or small posts that support the upper rail of a railing

Broach: Present day Bharuch, a city near Surat

Built heritage: The part of heritage that consists of buildings and structures, as opposed to natural or aesthetic assets

Building typology: The variety in the building forms found in a given settlement of area

Ceylon: Sri Lanka

Chhatri: Umbrella

Chawl: A type of building found in India, usually with one all-purpose room and a kitchen. They are often four to five storeys with about 10 to 20 tenements, referred to as kholis, which literally mean ‘rooms’ on each floor

Chowk: An open courtyard present in very deep and narrow houses where its size depends on the nature of use around. If houses conduct large public gathering, the size of chowk becomes larger, but in most cases, it is just a functional cut-out for light and ventilation needs. Such a diminished size also keeps heavy rainwater at bay during the monsoon

Cornice: Uppermost section of moldings along the top of a wall or just below a roof.

Corinthian and Ionic architecture: Two of the principal classical orders of ancient Greek and Roman architecture. The Corinthian is the most ornate of the orders

Darwaja: Gate, usually used for cities or main areas or forts, which defines entry point

Dawat: The seat of the religious head of Dawoodi Bohras

Deli: Entrance room which is the first inner space located after the

main entrance door. This also acts as a transition as the primary circulation branches out from here in both vertical and horizontal direction. It is a purely public zone

Derasar: Jain temple

Digambar and Shwetambar: The two main sects of Jainism

East India Company: An early English joint stock company which traded mainly with the Indian sub-continent and China

Ganesha: The Hindu elephant God

Ganga: A river in India, considered to be holy

Gamtal: Village

Ghat: Series of steps leading down to a water body, usually a holy river

Gothic: Style of architecture that flourished during the high and late medieval period. In Gothic architecture, a unique combination of existing technologies established the emergence of a new building style. Those technologies were the ogival or pointed arch, the ribbed vault, and the flying buttress

Haj: Annual pilgrimage to Mecca, Saudi Arabia

Haveli: A private mansion in India and Pakistan. The word haveli is derived from Persian meaning ‘an enclosed place’

Jali: Pierced lattice work

Jari: It is a type of thread made of fine gold or silver wire used in tra-ditional Indian garments. This thread is woven into fabrics, primarily made of silk, to create intricate patterns

Jharookha: Used as a cantilevered balcony in traditional houses; its conventional shape is that of an overhanging oriel window supported by brackets

Jinnalaya: Jain temple

Kalash: Pitcher

Khadi: Moat

Kharva: A group, originally from Kannauj in Rajasthan, which mi-grated to Gujarat coast to make a living by working at the sea

Khinkhwab: Brocade of silk and gold or silver wires interwoven

Kubera: The Hindu God of wealth

Glossary

Nagina Mosque, Rander

The survivor that’s how we describe Surat. A city that was burnt and

ravaged, a city whose prosperity brought to its doorstep many

adversaries, a city that bounced back with renewed vigor every time

it fell. Surat has revived and renewed itself constantly, never failing

to surprise all those who looked at it or heard about it.

The time this book chronicles is when Rander was not a part of

Surat, having developed much before the diamond city did. Rander’s

loss was Surat’s gain. When affluent Jains from Rander crossed the

Tapi, they took with them their wealth and skills and settled in

Surat. From there began the story of Surat as we know it today.

Surat’s growth and prosperity attracted visitors, both from within

and outside the country. The history of this region is dotted with

incidences of loot on one hand and growth and development on the

other. As the port city, it was the hub of all business activity. It is

said, flags of 84 countries used to fly high at the Surat port. The

initial settlement grew; Suryanagar became Surat; the urban fabric

became finer and the city prospered. The foreigners left behind a

tangible impression on the city in the form of built heritage.

‘At the Core’ shows the reader images of motifs, buildings and

streets of Surat, otherwise easily lost to the eyes, in a way they have

hardly been seen. The understanding of growth and settlement in

this region that has been detailed here makes the book an

eye-opener.

UMC is a not-for-profit organization based in Ahmedabad, India. It aims to professionalize and strengthen urban management in India and South Asia. The organization’s close association with International City/County Management Association (ICMA) in the region has earned it the sobriquet of ICMA-South Asia. It reaches across all levels of governments to advance good governance practices by encouraging the creation, sharing and replication of innovations, and by conducting hands-on practical training of city managers. Through the network of City Managers’ Associations in India, the organization also facilitates practitioner-based assistance to local government needs. UMC specializes in research and application of urban planning and governance, built heritage management, local government association development, city partnerships, urban indicators analysis and performance assessment of local governments.

[email protected]

SMC is a local self government which has come into being under the Bombay Provincial Municipal Corporation (BPMC) Act, 1949. It carries out all the obligatory and discretionary functions entrusted by the Act, with the mission “to make Surat a dynamic, vibrant, beautiful, self-reliant and sustainable city with all basic amenities to provide a better quality of life”. SMC perceives its role as the principal facilitator and provider of services like water supply, under-ground sewage system, roads, solid waste management, health coverage, primary education, efficient urban planning and development of the city, to ensure a better quality of life. SMC also functions as a facilitator of industrial growth, trade and commerce, health services, higher education and research, cultural activities, sports and games, recreation and entertainment.

www.suratmunicipal.orgAt the CoreUnderstanding the built heritage of Surat and RanderManvita Baradi and Meghna Malhotra

Qualified as an architect and urban planner, she has two decades of technical experience in developing and administering programs for local governance, citizen participation, capacity building of local government associations, urban planning, performance measurement, international development, and heritage management. Ms Baradi has served as director for South Asia programs of the International City/County Management Association (ICMA). Much of her professional work has involved conceptual-izing and forming City Managers’ Associations in India.

She operationalized the first local government association of Gujarat State. This work focused on building capacity for local government, and local government associations in 13 states of India, Sri Lanka, Indonesia, Afghanistan, and Thailand. She is presently involved in preparing heritage action plan for a precinct near Navi Mumbai, a project supported by the Mumbai Metropolitan Regional Development Authority. Being an accomplished theater director and recognized actress on stage and television since childhood, she uses her knowledge of development communication for improvement in local governance. She has also produced street plays on the importance of heritage and revitalizing Ahmedabad’s Walled City. She continues her research on historic performance spaces in India. She has performed at national festivals and is a recipient of Fellowship from Department of Culture, Government of India.

Manvita Baradi Founder Director, Urban Management Centre

An architect and environmental planner, she has a decade of work experience in program management and administering donor-funded programs in consultative mode for local governments and local government associations. Key areas of her expertise have been heritage management, urban planning, and performance measurement. Much of her previous work involved providing hands-on support to local governments and associations through setting up best practices documentation, urban indicators and performance measurement programs, and city-city partnership programs across South Asia. Ms Malhotra has also been involved in several exercises in capacity needs assessment for state and local government institutions. She is currently involved in preparing a Municipal Management Manual for Afghan city managers and has, with Manvita Baradi, co-authored heritage management guide for cities with a rich historic background. In her individual capacity, Ms Malhotra has worked with INTACH, Madhya Pradesh chapter, on documentation and preparation of conservation plan for Udaigiri Caves. She carried out measured drawings of heritage structures of Maheshwar, documented Muslim architectural heritage of Bhopal and prepared an action plan for the same. She is presently involved in preparing action plan for a precinct near Navi Mumbai, a project supported by the Mumbai Metropoli-tan Regional Development Authority.

Meghna MalhotraDeputy Director, Urban Management Centre

Surat Municipal Corporation (SMC)

Urban Management Centre (UMC)

At the C


anderM

anvita Baradi and M

eghna MalhotraBuildings of heritage value identified in one of the

wards of Inner City of Surat

The survivor that’s how we describe Surat. A city that was burnt and

ravaged, a city whose prosperity brought to its doorstep many

adversaries, a city that bounced back with renewed vigor every time

it fell. Surat has revived and renewed itself constantly, never failing

to surprise all those who looked at it or heard about it.

The time this book chronicles is when Rander was not a part of

Surat, having developed much before the diamond city did. Rander’s

loss was Surat’s gain. When affluent Jains from Rander crossed the

Tapi, they took with them their wealth and skills and settled in

Surat. From there began the story of Surat as we know it today.

Surat’s growth and prosperity attracted visitors, both from within

and outside the country. The history of this region is dotted with

incidences of loot on one hand and growth and development on the

other. As the port city, it was the hub of all business activity. It is

said, flags of 84 countries used to fly high at the Surat port. The

initial settlement grew; Suryanagar became Surat; the urban fabric

became finer and the city prospered. The foreigners left behind a

tangible impression on the city in the form of built heritage.

‘At the Core’ shows the reader images of motifs, buildings and

streets of Surat, otherwise easily lost to the eyes, in a way they have

hardly been seen. The understanding of growth and settlement in

this region that has been detailed here makes the book an

eye-opener.

UMC is a not-for-profit organization based in Ahmedabad, India. It aims to professionalize and strengthen urban management in India and South Asia. The organization’s close association with International City/County Management Association (ICMA) in the region has earned it the sobriquet of ICMA-South Asia. It reaches across all levels of governments to advance good governance practices by encouraging the creation, sharing and replication of innovations, and by conducting hands-on practical training of city managers. Through the network of City Managers’ Associations in India, the organization also facilitates practitioner-based assistance to local government needs. UMC specializes in research and application of urban planning and governance, built heritage management, local government association development, city partnerships, urban indicators analysis and performance assessment of local governments.

[email protected]

SMC is a local self government which has come into being under the Bombay Provincial Municipal Corporation (BPMC) Act, 1949. It carries out all the obligatory and discretionary functions entrusted by the Act, with the mission “to make Surat a dynamic, vibrant, beautiful, self-reliant and sustainable city with all basic amenities to provide a better quality of life”. SMC perceives its role as the principal facilitator and provider of services like water supply, under-ground sewage system, roads, solid waste management, health coverage, primary education, efficient urban planning and development of the city, to ensure a better quality of life. SMC also functions as a facilitator of industrial growth, trade and commerce, health services, higher education and research, cultural activities, sports and games, recreation and entertainment.

www.suratmunicipal.orgAt the CoreUnderstanding the built heritage of Surat and RanderManvita Baradi and Meghna Malhotra

Qualified as an architect and urban planner, she has two decades of technical experience in developing and administering programs for local governance, citizen participation, capacity building of local government associations, urban planning, performance measurement, international development, and heritage management. Ms Baradi has served as director for South Asia programs of the International City/County Management Association (ICMA). Much of her professional work has involved conceptual-izing and forming City Managers’ Associations in India.

She operationalized the first local government association of Gujarat State. This work focused on building capacity for local government, and local government associations in 13 states of India, Sri Lanka, Indonesia, Afghanistan, and Thailand. She is presently involved in preparing heritage action plan for a precinct near Navi Mumbai, a project supported by the Mumbai Metropolitan Regional Development Authority. Being an accomplished theater director and recognized actress on stage and television since childhood, she uses her knowledge of development communication for improvement in local governance. She has also produced street plays on the importance of heritage and revitalizing Ahmedabad’s Walled City. She continues her research on historic performance spaces in India. She has performed at national festivals and is a recipient of Fellowship from Department of Culture, Government of India.

Manvita Baradi Founder Director, Urban Management Centre

An architect and environmental planner, she has a decade of work experience in program management and administering donor-funded programs in consultative mode for local governments and local government associations. Key areas of her expertise have been heritage management, urban planning, and performance measurement. Much of her previous work involved providing hands-on support to local governments and associations through setting up best practices documentation, urban indicators and performance measurement programs, and city-city partnership programs across South Asia. Ms Malhotra has also been involved in several exercises in capacity needs assessment for state and local government institutions. She is currently involved in preparing a Municipal Management Manual for Afghan city managers and has, with Manvita Baradi, co-authored heritage management guide for cities with a rich historic background. In her individual capacity, Ms Malhotra has worked with INTACH, Madhya Pradesh chapter, on documentation and preparation of conservation plan for Udaigiri Caves. She carried out measured drawings of heritage structures of Maheshwar, documented Muslim architectural heritage of Bhopal and prepared an action plan for the same. She is presently involved in preparing action plan for a precinct near Navi Mumbai, a project supported by the Mumbai Metropoli-tan Regional Development Authority.

Meghna MalhotraDeputy Director, Urban Management Centre

Surat Municipal Corporation (SMC)

Urban Management Centre (UMC)

At the C


anderM

anvita Baradi and M

eghna MalhotraBuildings of heritage value identified in one of the

wards of Inner City of Surat

At the CoreUnderstanding the built heritage of Surat and RanderManvita Baradi and Meghna Malhotra

The survivor —that’s how we describe Surat. A city that was burnt and ravaged,

a city whose prosperity brought to its doorstep many adversaries, a city that

bounced back with renewed vigor every time it fell. Surat has revived and

renewed itself constantly, never failing to surprise all those who looked at it or

heard about it.

The time this book chronicles is when Rander was not a part of Surat, having

developed much before the diamond city did. Rander’s loss was Surat’s gain.

When affluent Jains from Rander crossed the Tapi, they took with them their

wealth and skills and settled in Surat. From there began the story of Surat as we

know it today.

Surat’s growth and prosperity attracted visitors, both from within and outside the

country. The history of this region is dotted with incidences of loot on one hand

and growth and development on the other. As the port city, it was the hub of all

business activity. It is said, flags of 84 countries used to fly high at the Surat port.

The initial settlement grew; Suryanagar became Surat; the urban fabric became

finer and the city prospered. The foreigners left behind a tangible impression on

the city in the form of built heritage.

‘At the Core’ shows the reader images of motifs, buildings and streets of Surat,

otherwise easily lost to the eyes, in a way they have hardly been seen. The

understanding of growth and settlement in this region that has been detailed

here makes the book an eye-opener.

Buildings of heritage value identified in one of the wards of Inner City of Surat

At the C


anderM

anvita Baradi and M

eghna Malhotra

at the core - umcasia.org the core understanding built...at the core understanding the ... is said...

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