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08 News & Events

14 Dispatches

15 Street Smart: Nguyen Van Lac

18 Q&A with Nathan Horton

20 Photo Essay: Our Ancient City

26 A Very Vietnam Christmas

28 Partying Phangan-Style

30 The Man Who Ate KL

46 Christmas Shopping

48 Behind the Design: Wheel

House Café

50 Connoisseur: Wine Glasses

52 The List

88 Spotlight

90 Street Guide

98 The Two of Us

100 Keeping Tabs

102 Pub Quiz

front

24

AsiaLIFE volume 45

back

40 Sterling's Saigon

41 Nippon Izakaya

42 Agapestro

43 Quo Vadis

44 Holiday Feast

food

32 The Sweet Life

34 Lord of the Laser

36 Multiple Madness

38 Call to Prayer

storyboard

on the cover style & design

CoverModelRofail Gervais

Art DirectionJohnny Murphy

PhotographyFred Wissink

41 48

www.asialifehcmc.com

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I will admit to not being the type of person who gets swept away by the Christmas spirit. Not that I am of the ‘Bah, humbug’ variety, it is more of a creeping indifference to a day that passes all the more unremarkably and, seemingly, more swiftly with each passing year.

Of course, being away from your family on the day will always take something of the shine off the event. We will speak on Skype or the phone will be passed around from one relative to the next. Updates on new babies, jobs, and the relative merits of the Austra-lian cricket team are common conversational topics. In a way it is not much different to being back at home, except my wife and I do not spend much of the

day travelling from one group of relatives’ house to another.

In truth, and hopefully I do not appear totally callous, what I miss most about Christmas is the day after. Boxing Day was the time when, with family commitments out of the way, I would get together with my mates at one of our places, have a barbecue, drink plenty of beer and watch the first day of the traditional cricket test match from Melbourne. We have all known each other for longer than we care to remember, and these days there is a growing band of kids splashing around in the pool. Perhaps it is that we have been friends for so long, and getting to spend a relaxed, uninterrupted day together is what makes it so enjoyable.

This had me thinking about making the most of the Christ-mas I will be spending here in Saigon. In an expat environment our friends often take the form of substitute families. Bonds develop more quickly and with greater intensity than they might back home. So, Christmas is a chance to get together and spend a day with your circle of friends without much of the obligatory family duties.

For all the swings and round-abouts life in Vietnam can have, I still consider myself lucky to be able to make a life here. I like my work and I like my friends, so it seems a good time of year to spend a day appreciating these things. And if that is as close as I get to the Christmas spirit, I think that isn’t so bad.

note from the editor

Brett Davis

Find AsiaLIFE articles on

Next time you're across the border, check out the latest issue of AsiaLIFE Cambodia or download it from www.asialifeguide.com.

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122011ISSUE60

Corporate Good

Henno landed in HCM City in 2006 soon after finishing a degree in journalism and a short stint at a golf magazine in South Africa. With an insatiable appetite for scrumptious food, fine company and taking in quirky stray cats, he met someone with similar inclina-tions and they headed to sunny Brisbane for a year and got engaged. Vietnam’s siren song beckoned, however, and Henno now juggles teaching academic English and freelancing for magazines.

Natasha left her corporate career as a media relations executive in early 2009 to follow her husband’s job with an Australian engineering consultancy based in Hanoi. Mum to identical twins Georgia and Mackenzie, Natasha admits adjusting to life as a suddenly full-time parent to two-year-old daughters was not an easy ride. Almost three years on, and now working for the Australian Government in HCM City, Natasha happily juggles motherhood and her day job with her passion for travel and writing.

Henno Kotzé

Natasha Somerville

PRE-SCHOOL PRIMARY SECONDARY

RENAISSANCE INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL SAIGON

IB SCHOLARSHIP 2011 - 2012RISS is pleased to announce the continuation of its Scholarship Programme. Scholarships equivalent to 50% of annual fees to students with a minimum of 5 A’s or A* grades at IGCSE (valued at US$ 17,800 over 2 years) and of 20% to students with a minimum of 5 grade C’s or higher (valued at US$ 7,120 over 2 years). Applicants to the IB programme who have not studied IGCSE, may be awarded scholarships based on the results of an entrance examination.

REGISTRATIONApplications are now being received for academic year 2011 – 2012. Limited places are available from Pre-Nursery to Year 12.

Visit: www.rissaigon.edu.vn Email: admission@rissaigon.edu.vn

74 Nguyen Thi Thap Street, Binh Thuan Ward, District 7, Ho Chi Minh City, Viet Nam, Tel: (84-8) 377 33 171 -- Fax: (84-8) 377 33 176

IT’S OFFICIAL – 100% IB DIPLOMAS AWARDED!RISS IS PROUD TO ANNOUNCE THAT ALL STUDENTS IN THE CLASS OF 2011 WERE EACH AWARDED THEIR IB DIPLOMA

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NEWS EVENTSThe Creation of Concept Coiffure Venus Coiffure, owned and managed by Sandrine Nguyen, has relocated its long-standing flagship salon to a District 2 villa. CONCEPT COIFFURE, a new brand, offers a broader range of services including those for kids, facial care, skin care, nail care, foot reflexology and body therapy. Hair styling begins with consultation and care advice. CONCEPT KIDS, housed in a separate salon on site, specialises in children’s cuts and styles, products, services and gifts. Stop by CONCEPT COIFFURE at 48 Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao Dien, District 2. Extended salon hours are from 9 am until 8 pm

Monday through Sunday. To book an appointment call 09 0950 2667.

Danang GC dubbed ‘Best New Course in Asia-Pacific’The Dunes Course recently won ‘Best New Course in Asia-Pacific’ at the Asia Pacific Golf Summit, an event capped by the 12th annual Best of Asia Awards. Danang GC beat out a pair of finalists from China for the distinguished 2011 honour, making it the first Vietnamese club to garner this prestigious title. The victory comes 11 months after GOLF Magazine US named Danang GC one of the top 15 golf venues to open worldwide in 2010. Danang

GC has only been open for play since May 2010. For more information visit dananggolfclub.com.

Kermesse at the Zoo The third annual Poussières de Vie Kermesse will take place at the Saigon Zoo on December 11. The whole family can watch and take part in sports activities, shows and performances, as well as games (with prizes). Highlights will include a Capoeira demo, Dancenter performances, a sideshow by the HCM City circus, live concerts and two lucky draws. Popular restaurants in HCM City will set up booths serving French and Vietnamese fare. All proceeds

will go to Poussières de Vie. Visit the zoo (Le Duan, District 1) on December 11 from 10 am until 5 pm. Email catherine.namhee@gmail.com for more details.

World Aids day at RMIT Head to RMIT on December 1 and 4 for White Day, a World Aids Day event and the inaugural event for the RMIT Health and Wellbeing Club. December 1 will kick off at 11 am with a grand welcome and introduction about the event (including details about health awareness and the SMILE group charity for children with HIV). Guest speakers will include Dr Nicholas Lagues from Centre Medical International and Life Coach Robert Bridgeman.

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A mass meditation led by a meditation group will focus awareness. There will also be games, performances and activities around campus. Several local NGOs will be present at the event. Hand painted t-shirts made by the children of SMILE groups will be auctioned and for sale. The Sunday December 4 event will be run by the SMILE group on campus.

Santo Nero Opens Newly opened Santo Nero is the first authentic Italian shop in HCM City to feature exclusive Italian men’s wear. The brand specialises in Italian shirts for any occasion made from imported 100% cotton and other fine fabrics from Italy, Switzerland and Japan. Shirts in the Ready-to-Wear collection go for US $70-95. Exclusive accessories will soon be available, too. VIP clients can receive bespoke service. The shop will be open from 9 am until

9 pm, 7 days a week. Visit Santo Nero at 23 Ly Tu Trong in District 1 or email info@santonero.com.

Hypnobirthing in HCM City Women today hold an unprece-dented fear of giving birth, which actually causes their bodies to become tense and results in a painful birthing process. People who are drawn to HypnoBirthing have been searching for a way that helps women give birth as calmly and safely as possible. Through a simple program of self-hypnosis and education, women learn to trust that their bodies know how to bring their babies into the world in the gentle way that nature intended. Here in HCM City, five 2 ½ hour classes for US $425 are offered to help women develop the joy of discovering their natural birthing instinct. Classes are affiliated with the HypnoBirthing institute. For details, contact Karen Spencer-

Sin Lounge is a brand new venue specialising in sleek cocktails for the most discerning customer. With classic lines and contemporary touches, combined with unique lighting effects, Sin Lounge will be a sophisticated place to enjoy delicious cocktails with friends. Sin is located in The Lancaster, 22 – 22 Bis Le Thanh Ton, District 1.

Sin Lounge

My name is Adun. I’m a friendly one-year-old male. A month ago I was found on the street, hiding in a corner. I was frightened and couldn’t walk properly, but a kind volunteer brought me to Dr Nghia. My hip and front leg were broken. Luckily, I was treated at ARC, neutered and given some painkillers. My hip healed properly, but I will be having another surgery on my front leg. I will need some behaviour training, but I enjoy going for walks and can walk on a leash without any problems. I’m not a fan of other male dogs, but I love playing with Dr Nghia’s cat... If you can offer me a safe, loving home and lots of attention, contact Animal Rescue and Care at arcfostadopt@gmail.com or call 016 3487 7240.

Harty, certified midwife and hyp-nobirthing practitioner. Karen@vietnammedicalpractice.com.

InterContinental Launches Weekend City Escapes InterContinental Hotels and Re-sorts has launched the InterCon-tinental Weekend City Escape, which offers packages for ideal weekend getaways in nearby destinations across Southeast Asia. The InterContinental Week-end City Escape package, which includes late check-out till 4 pm, complimentary internet access, US $50 food and beverage credit (with minimum two nights stay), and an additional 2,000 Priority Club Rewards points is available for bookings made before Janu-ary 31 for stays from October 24 until February 29 2012. The Weekend City Escape Campaign is available at eight participat-ing InterContinental city hotels across the region.

Dancenter Kids Classes at the Crescent In early 2012, Dancenter will start holding dance classes for chil-dren in District 7’s Crescent Mall area. Pre-registration for these

classes will start in December 2011. Please contact Dancenter if you would like more informa-tion about classes for children or to see the current schedule. Click on to dancentervn.com or contact info@dancenter.

Experience KLORANE KLORANE, created in 1966 by pharmacist Pierre Fabre, combines the best of nature with pharmaceutical knowledge to de-velop a broad collection of pure and proven hair care. KLORANE utilises the lowest number of in-gredients for the highest efficacy. The brand adheres to a process of exceptional quality standards known as the Phytofilière®, which guarantees high levels of performance and safety in all KLORANE products. Launching for the first time in Vietnam, KLORANE helps consumers deal with the seven common patholo-gies of hair. Purchase KLORANE through Annam Gourmet shop, certain pharmacies and beauty care centres or contact by phone: 6678 9443.

Mekong-Long ThanhIn order to meet and satisfy the demands of discerning

Meet Adun, ARC’s Pet of the Month

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After the successful launch of the new A6 V6 last June in Hanoi, Audi is launching the new Audi A6 with the powerful fuel efficient 2.0 TFSI turbocharged 4-cylinder petrol engine with direct fuel injection and Audi valve lift delivering 132 kW. The Audi A6 2.0 TFSI successor features groundbreaking solutions in every area of technology including Audi Drive select dynamic handling system with efficiency program. The body is extremely light owing to a significant proportion of aluminum components. The range of assistance and multimedia systems is extensive, and operation is intuitive and user-friendly.

The new Audi A6 2.0 TFSI—Prestige redefined in Vietnam

travellers, Trung Thuy Group has combined with various companies of Dong Nai province to build Mekong-Long Thanh (next to Bo Sua Long Thanh). The area is 7ha with a total investment over $100 million. The place is designed with open architecture and surrounded with lush greenery. This is the group’s third success and aims to bring clients the best quality services.

Unleash Your Inner Libertine The Body Shop® launches White Musk Libertine, a new floral musk masterpiece. The original White Musk was the first cruelty-free musk fragrance that captured the imagination of the public and celebrities alike. Sweet Turkish delight, Chantilly Cream and Orchids are the main ingredients that make White Musk Libertine so heavenly. The White Musk Libertine range also features a shower gel and body lotion alongside the fragrance. The range contains cruelty-free musk and Community Fair Trade alcohol, with the body lotion

also featuring Community Fair Trade Shea, Brazil and Babussa Oil. Available at The Body Shop, 89 Mac Thi Buoi, District 1.

Future Shorts Launches Global Pop Up Film Fest Launched in November, the Future Shorts Festival will become the first global pop-up festival. Since 2003, Future Shorts’ defining format is to showcase a single programme of the best short films from around the world. The festival currently comprises a worldwide audience of a half-million people, on and offline. December’s screening programme includes the Oscar-winner God of Love and Sundance-winner Deeper Than Yesterday. The first screening is on Sunday, December 11 (doors open at 6.30 pm and the screening is at 7) at Lit Ca Phe (8 Le Quy Don, District 3). The second screening will happen on Wednesday, December 14 (doors open at 7.30 pm and the screening is at 8) at Snap Café (32 Tran Ngoc Dien, District 2). The entrance fee

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Be amongst the first to get your hands on the new 100% natural Lip Roll-On made from natural oils from around the world. If your lips are crying out for moisture and nourishment, discover this natural lip oil with its unique roller-ball applicator, available in four fantastic flavours: Romantic Rose, Zesty Orange, Berry Goodness, Revitalising Mint.

The Body Shop’s New Lip Roll-On

is 60,000 VND but is free for filmmakers (bring a copy of work ID) and 30,000 VND for students with ID. Check out facebook.com/futureshortsvietnam or futureshorts.com/Vietnam.

London CallingOn Friday December 9 from 7 pm until late, the Caravelle Hotel is holding a Christmas Dinner party and Disco. The price is US $100 per person. Contact Tran for more information at 3829 8430.

Birth Education Class A birth education class will be held on December 7. Learn about issues pertaining to labour and birth, pain relieving options, complications, baby care and breastfeeding. To book a place or for further information please contact karen@vietnammedical-practice.com.

Limited Edition Bath and Body Delights from the Body Shop The Limited Edition Bath and Body ranges from The Body Shop® are bursting with irresist-ible aromas to get you into the festive mood this December.

Whether it is the Limited Edition Cranberry Joy or the invigorating Limited Edition Spiced Vanilla range, there is an indulgent fra-grance to suit every need. Loved ones will enjoy receiving these sweet-swelling and socially responsible products this holiday season. Available at The Body Shop, 89 Mac Thi Buoi, District 1.

Saigon Flea Market Returns On December 11, head to Boomarang Bistro (107 Ton Dat Tien, Phu My Hung, District 7) to experience the Saigon Flea Market, a quality new and vintage market, operating in the same vein as an artisan market. Traders will be selling antiques, collectable art, vintage clothes, retro collectables, toys, home-ware, fashion design, handmade things and accessories. Funds generated by the markets sup-port its other community and charity projects, namely for underprivileged children. If you wish to be a stallholder at the market, visit facebook.com/Saigon.flea.market to receive an application form and return it to hangzoanvn@gmail.com.

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Sian Clinic is offering a special promotion of 10% off gift products for botox and fillers treatments. Botox and fillers are the top two nonsurgical procedures for men and women. They are used for the immediate smoothing of wrinkles, restoring the skin’s plumpness and modeling of facial contours. Located at 71-79 Dong Khoi, District 1, Sian Clinic is managed by Dr Si Tran, head specialist and an extraordinarily accomplished dermatologist with over a decade of experience in the diagnosis and treatment of skin conditions. Dial 08 38 27 6 999 or email info@sianclinic.com.

Discover the joys of this festive season with your loved ones as we sing, dance and play. Come and meet Santa Claus through our fun-filled planned activities and enjoy festive treats too! Limited tickets available. For more party details, speak to the Gymbo Party hotline on (08)38277008 now, to make a reserva-tion! Tickets are sold at USD$15 (members) and USD $20 (non-members) each.

Sian Clinic’s End of Year Promotion

Exclusive Christmas with Gymbo and Friends

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dispatchesTravel news from around the region and beyond

an iconic art Hotel Beijing is becoming quite the happening place. Drab neighbourhoods once firmly entrenched under communist rule have been given a new lease on life. A prime example is the city’s famous 798 Art District. Originally an industrial complex in the early 1950s, some of China’s best-known artists have taken up residence, transforming the area into a thriving cultural hub. It’s a befitting location for newly opened boutique hotel Grace Beijing, housed in a converted crystal factory. While there’s an abundance of art galleries nearby, there’s plenty of local artwork to be admired within the walls of this 30-room luxury hotel itself. On the premises are two restaurants—Yi House, which offers modern Mediterranean and Asian cuisine and Bar 798, which has become a hotspot for Beijing urbanites. Room rates start at US $100 a night. Click on to gracebeijing.com or call +86 10 6436 1818. – Ellen Boonstra

December Deals at Villa Maly Once the home of Laos’s distinguished royal family, 33-room Villa Maly is an exquisite boutique hotel ensconced in tropical flora. Book a minimum of three nights before December 20 and pay only US $285 per night based on double occupancy. The promotion includes a traditional dance perfor-mance dinner cruise on Nava Mekong and two glasses of premium house wine. To proceed with the booking contact resa@villa-maly.com. The hotel’s Christmas Eve Dinner Cruise (US $45 per person) and the New Year’s Eve Dinner Cruise (US $50 per person) both run from 8 until 11 pm. The festive dinners will feature welcome canapés, two welcome sparkling wines, set dinners and dance performances. This is an exciting time for Villa Maly as Apple Tree Group has just appointed an experienced French manager, Jean-Matthieu Beroujon, to oversee operations. To book please call (856) 7125 3902 or email info@villa-maly.com.

Bubbles and Bliss in SingaporeFrom now until December 31, take advantage of Hotel Fort Canning Singapore’s Bubblelicious Room Package. The couples package includes one night’s accommodation in a Deluxe or Deluxe Garden Room; buffet breakfast for two at The Glass House; a bubble bath with flower petals; a bottle of sparkling wine; THANN Sanctuary bath amenities; unlimited serving of Nespresso coffee and TWG beverages in room and at the lobby lounge throughout the day with a choice of wines, juices, cham-pagne and light canapés from 6 pm until 8 pm daily. Guests will also receive shuttle service to the Central Business District and Orchard Shopping District. The deal starts at US $348++ per night and an upgrade to a Premier Room costs an ad-ditional $30. For terms and conditions, visit hfcsingapore.com/offers.html, call +65 6559 6770 or send an email to contact@hfcsingapore.com.

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Nam Nau32 Nguyen Van Lac This sleepy open-front eatery features stout wooden tables, enticing food pictures on the wall, and a very affordable menu. Dishes on offer include banh xeo, an assortment of bun dishes, and the popular nem cho Huyen, a specialty of Binh Dinh province in south-central Vietnam. Prices range from 15,000 to 45,000 VND, and Nam Nau is open from 9 am to 10 pm.

Kim Van42 Nguyen Van Lac Your one-stop shop for window and door drapes, Kim Van is a showroom where designs can be selected and customised. The examples on display feature Disney characters, leaves and pottery, as well as simple single-colour designs. A pile of fabric catalogues is available for your perusal, and all products are crafted in a factory outside of the city. A drape large enough to cover one 3-metre tall door goes

for about 1 million VND. Kim Van operates between 8 am and 9 pm.

Vu Ha58c Nguyen Van Lac This tiny, unassuming shop is home to a surprisingly impres-sive array of wine and liquor. Cheap staples such as Vang Da-lat and Hanoi Vodka call the bot-tom shelf home, while imported Grey Goose, Jack Daniels, and Johnny Walker, among others, are more prominently displayed.

Michael Tatarski negotiates Binh Thanh’s narrow, bustling Nguyen Van Lac. Photos by Fred Wissink.

Street Smart

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Prices vary widely, from around 60,000 VND up to several million dong. Wines—mostly red—from Australia, Chile and France cost 300,000 to 500,000 VND. There are also several bottles of a Japanese whisky, aged 17 years, called Yamazaki, locked in a glass case for 2.2 million VND. Vu Ha is open from 8.30 am to 9.30 pm.

Vinh64 Nguyen Van Lac If you’re looking to remodel your

bathroom, Vinh has all of your needs covered. This showroom is packed with toilets, sinks, bathtubs, floor tiling and those wonderful devices that make hot water for your shower. All products are made right here in Vietnam, and prices run through a wide range. Operating hours are from 7 am to 6 pm.

Huu Ky84 Nguyen Van Lac Soup dishes are prepared right at the entrance to this stainless-steel

chair and table establishment. Bo kho is available for breakfast, while hu tiu and the recommend-ed mi vit tiem, a Chinese dish, are popular for an early lunch. Huu Ky opens early and shuts down at 12 pm. The most expensive dish is 60,000 VND, and prices vary downward from there.

Dai Quang76 Nguyen Van Lac Set in the open foyer of a house and reeking of glue, Dai Quang is a one-man shoe-making

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show. Men’s shoes are all that are offered—from thongs and sandals to slick dress shoes. The proprietor has been crafting shoes for 12 years, and he is happy to custom-fit a pair for western customers; a godsend in a country where finding certain shoe sizes can be a challenge. Sandals go for 160,000 to 190,000 VND, while dress shoes cost 350,000 to 450,000 VND. It takes two days to a week to make a pair, and the shop opens around 8 am and closes by 10 pm.

Evie78 Nguyen Van Lac A cut above the many cloth-ing stores lining Nguyen Van Lac, Evie allows women to tailor stylish, colourful dresses and blouses to their liking. An evening dress costs between 500,000 and 1.5 million VND, while more low-key tops go for 250,000 VND. It takes the staff about one week to make an outfit, and the store is open from 9 am to 9 pm. All materials are sourced in Vietnam.

Christmas Take away

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Many people can recall a mo-ment in their life when they realised their calling. Did you ever have such an epiphany?Not really. I was thinking of becoming an architect at school, but I joined the camera club, started taking pictures and I loved it. I certainly grew up wanting to find a way of earning a living that didn't feel like work. The irony is that I do something I love but work harder than anyone I know around me!

Your photos emanate an acute awareness of form and light. How has your background in advertising and fashion photog-raphy influenced your work?With advertising and fashion photography, you spend all day constructing images, fine tuning small details, control-ling light with various light sources. Everybody knows what you’re trying to achieve. Travel photography is more about spontaneity, capturing a bit of poetry in the chaos of life. The essence of travel photography is that you can only observe light, not control it. But after spending so much time fine-tuning details in commercial work I intui-tively know what to look for in amongst the chaos.

How would you describe your style?I have always been a fan of tak-ing portraits of people in their natural environments. Cam-bodia really lends itself to this style because the people here are quite bold, not afraid of eye contact, and a little cheeky. I like to think of my work as a posi-tive representation of a country that has quite a bad reputation but charms nearly everybody who visits.

Your portfolio on Angkor is stirringly beautiful. What do

the temples mean to you?Architecturally, they are simply outstanding, but visited in the right way they still carry some of that ancient mysticism. My job is to show people the tem-ples with that slight mysticism still intact combined with photo-graphic opportunities of people interacting with the temples, the best angles and time of day.

What is your favourite photo that you’ve taken?The photo of the nun praying at a stupa in Preah Khan at Angkor. It was the first time I saw her. She was amazingly dedicated to keeping vigil over her alter, and was there every day for years. I was glad to cap-ture that dedication in this really beautiful light before she passed away. Cambodians don’t have a very long life expectancy and there are three or four people who make up my favourite pictures who aren’t around anymore.

You’ve done a lot of work with NGOs, including the UNDP’s landmine clearance project. How has that experience af-fected you?I spent years at college learn-ing that pictures and words combined is a very powerful medium to educate people. Unfortunately, in this world much more effort is usually put into combining them to sell products, but more effort should be put into creative solutions that sell ideas and awareness. I wanted to use my photography to do something positive. There are still a lot of unexploded or-dinances, landmines and cluster bombs in Cambodia.

Apart from your equipment, what do you always have with you when shooting?A little bit of charm goes along way. I come as I am. I don’t

dress up as a photographer. I’m aware that when I am asking to take pictures of people, I am intruding on their lives.

Tell me about your photogra-phy courses.I run three different types of photography tours: small group tours for around 10 days and private tours for individuals and couples for four to seven days. I also do workshops and afternoon tours on a one-day basis. All are about impart-ing technical, aesthetic and ethical information about travel photography in stimulating photographic environments.

What country is next on your wish list?I think photographically Burma would be a very stimulating country. Twenty years ago I spent a lot of time on the Thai border speaking to Burmese students, who were begging me not to go to Burma, suggesting that it would only support the military regime. Twenty years later not a lot has changed politically but finally tourism might be able to have a positive impact.

Can you give the readers one tip when shooting in a foreign country?Treat people as human beings and not camera fodder. Be mentally prepared to be gra-cious and to engage with them. When I first started travelling, I was afraid that my camera was a kind of barrier impeding the experience. Now, twenty years later, I see the camera as the key to a culture. It’s not just about coming away with good pictures. Culture has enabled humanity to express itself in so many ways. Let’s celebrate that.

You can see Nathan’s work atnathanhortonphotography.com.

In the world of travel photography, capturing that special moment requires a combination of patience, determination and the eye of an artist. Photographer Nathan Horton has mastered these arts and is passing on his knowledge through photographic tours in Cambodia. Henno Kotzé was privileged to steal some of his sought-after time.

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aranasi is an ancient city on the bank of the Ganges River, one of the

holiest places on the planet, es-pecially for Hindus. The people do their laundry, bathe, dump their sewage, fish, pray, and die in The Ganges. Dead bodies are burned on the banks and the ashes are added to the water as a final resting place. The 3,000 year old city has seen its share of turmoil, but it hasn't stopped the Jains, Muslims, Buddhists, and Hindus from living peace-fully within the boundaries of one of the most ancient cities on the planet. In this series of portraits, Matt Lief Anderson captured some of the people who call Varanasi home.

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Matt Lief Anderson

Website:www.mattliefanderson.com

Email:mattliefanderson@gmail.com

Flickr:www.flickr.com/photos/mattliefanderson/

Corner Nguyen Du & Le Van Huu Streets, District 1, Ho Chi Minh City, VietnamTel: (84 8) 3520 8888Email: residences@icasianasaigon.comWebsite: intercontinental.com/saigonres

Whether you are looking for a luxury lifestyle or the perfect place to “live – work – entertain” for the entire family, InterContinental Asiana Saigon Residences is the place to be! Your family will be right at home with 24 hour security and dining service, convenience store, recreation facilities and deep local knowledge in their very own spacious, three-bedroom residences offering unrivalled panoramic views of the city, an open-plan design in a stunning and modern environment. The comforts of home plus the amenities and service of a world-class hotel, all within your reach.

ALL THE COMFORTS OF HOME. ALL THE EXPERTISE OF INTERCONTINENTAL.

In over 170 locations across the globe including HONG KONG LONDON NEW YORK PARIS. . .

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The festive season is once again upon us. If you have

made Vietnam your home it is a time of year that can be

tinged with some melancholy, but it is also a chance

for a unique Christmas experience whether you spend

the holidays here in HCM City or take advantage of some

of the more exotic locations within easy reach. Either

way, the opportunity is there to make this Christmas

one to remember. Photo by Fred Wissink.

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There is no snow falling gently on pitched roofs to create picture-postcard Christmas scenes. For the antipodeans the heat at the waning

end of the year is familiar but little else is there to remind you of a summer festive season.

For people spending the Christmas season in Vietnam, away from family and loved ones, it can be a challenge to recreate that familiar yuletide feeling. But don’t despair, as there are still plenty of ways to make the most of a Saigon Christmas.

Dig InOne of the central components to the Christ-mas tradition is of course a stomach-busting feast. There are myriad options around town at restaurants and hotels for Christmas buf-fets and dinners that provide all of the usual specialties of the season without the hassle of hours of cooking or the dreaded clean-up.

However, if you are a strict traditionalist (and have the type of kitchen that can handle the job), then you can get the necessary sup-plies for a home-cooked Christmas meal.

Popular purveyor of imported foodstuffs Veggy’s (Tel: 3823 8525) has turkeys from the US, complete with pop-up timer to ensure you bird is cooked to perfection. They also have a range of other Christmas-time favourites including shoulder ham, Christ-mas puddings, cake and stuffing mixes and graham-cracker pie bases. However, Veggy’s manager Bob Allen says while they do have some pumpkin pie filling in stock, new import

restrictions and a poor US pumpkin crop this year means supply is limited.

If you want to do your yuletide meal at home but lack the oven that can handle a whopping great turkey, the good folks at Black Cat (blackcatsaigon@yahoo.com) can deliver a whole 7kg roast turkey to your door for only 1,700,000 VND. Other pre-prepared goodies include giblet gravy, mashed potato, cornbread stuffing, candied sweet potatoes, cranberry sauce and desserts such as pump-kin or apple pie and red velvet cake.

It would of course not be a celebration without some bubbles. You can go for the higher-end French Champagnes, although there are other sparkling wine options that still deliver quality at a more affordable price. Darryl Bethea from Fine Wines of the World (darryl@finewinesasia.com) says Prosecco, produced in northern Italy, is a festive option. There is also the popular Spanish sparkling wine Cava, made from a blend of Chardon-nay and traditional local varietals. Bethea also recommends keeping an eye out for new-world bubbles from the US’s Napa Val-ley, Sonoma and Mendocino Counties, and Washington State.

The Gift of GivingIt would not be Christmas without some pres-ents under the tree. While buying for family and friends here in Vietnam is not a problem, for expatriates the question of how to handle the gift situation for those back in their home country can be more problematic. Although,

with the advent of online shopping this is increasingly easy to overcome.

One easy option that can also leave all concerned imbued with the spirit of holiday giving is to select a gift from the Oxfam Unwrapped initiative (oxfamunwrapped.com). You can choose a host of items that help support the international charity group’s agriculture, health and education projects. You can buy anything from a chicken ($10), to a mosquito net ($22), a buffalo ($495) or a water quality testing kit ($3000). Now, your loved ones won’t actually receive a buffalo through the mail, but they will get a gift card you can personalise letting them know their gift is going to people in need. It is as simple as ordering online, writing your personal mes-sage and filling in the recipient’s details.

Another common lament is what to buy the person who seems to have it all or who you are not entirely sure of their tastes. The an-swer may be: a little bit of everything. Magic Basket (magicbasketvn@yahoo.com) is a new venture taking the stress out of gift shopping with custom gift baskets to suit a range of tastes and budgets. Stocked with items like freshly baked cookies, specialty teas and cof-fee, sparkling and still wine, imported olives and other goodies, these baskets will be a welcome addition under any Christmas tree.

Deck the HallsIf it is your first Christmas away from home, you might find yourself longing for a winter wonderland—which Saigon is decidedly not.

A Very Vietnam

By Madeleine Adamson and Brett Davis.

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Luckily, there are many ways to make your HCM City home feel a little more festive.

The shop Hien, on the bustling corner of Hai Ba Trung and Vo Thi Sau, offers a variety of synthetic trees and wreaths. A traditional looking model comes complete with faux pinecones and white tips made to appear snow-dusted. The 1.6 metre model goes for about 530,000 VND. If you’re not dead-set on the natural look, a 2.4 metre silver tree is available for just under 1 million VND. Large wreaths complete with red and gold ribbons are about 500,000 VND while a string of lights is 60,000 VND. Hanging ornaments—from simple gold and silver bulbs to mini Christmas trees and stars—can be bought in small bags that cost between 10,000 and 20,000 VND. Shoppers can also pick up green and gold garlands, red bows, Santa door hangings and other kitschy trimmings. The gracious proprietor, who asks to be called simply ‘Ms Tree’, speaks excellent English. Hien is at 265-267 Hai Ba Trung, District 3.

While there are myriad artificial shrubs available in the city, there is nothing quite like the fresh scent of pine or cedar to instantly make a home feel Christmassy. You can order a genuine German tree through the for-warding company DB Schenker. Orders must be placed by December 6. Prices range from US $110 for a 180 cm tree to $170 for a 270 cm tree. Trees arrive around December 15. For inquiries or to place an order email hong.hanh@dbschenker.com or call 08 6297 1860.

Not-for-profit organisation Mekong Cre-ations has amassed a number of decora-tive items for Christmastime. The group’s rattan project in Ham Thuan Nam employs 15 women to make a small ornamental Christmas tree designed for expats. Mekong Creations carries a variety of ornaments, such as papier maché stars and heart shapes covered in colourful batik fabric and incased in rattan moulds. The line’s miniature gift boxes in festive hues feature a thin weave bamboo base and colourful satin top. Products for the holidays are available at 141 Bui Vien, District 1. For additional information call 08 2210 3110 or visit mekong-creations.org.

O Holy NightListen to a flawless rendition of Ave Maria and chances are, childhood memories of Christmas-time will come flooding back. You can enjoy a selection of Yuletide entertain-ment in Saigon throughout the month of December.On December 2 and 3 at 7.30 pm, the International Choir and Orchestra of HCM City is holding its annual Christmas concert at St Paul’s Convent (4Bis Nguyen Trung Ngan, District 1). The convent’s chapel—and surrounding cloisters—was built by the French and is seldom open to the public. The chapel boasts gorgeous vaulted ceil-ings, original French brickwork and colonial floor tiles—it’s the ultimate setting for a night of holy music. This year’s affair will include

choruses from Handel’s Messiah and Morten Lauridsen’s O Magnum Mysterium as well as other traditional gems. Entrance is by dona-tion and proceeds go directly to support the Loreto Vietnam-Australia Foundation and Poussiers de Vie (Dust of Life).

The Notre Dame Cathedral’s striking neo-Romanesque façade and prominent Virgin Mary statue draw crowds year round. The cathedral will hold a mass on Christmas Eve at 9.30 pm. While the service is offered in Vietnamese only, it is well worth a trip to the area to take in the over-the-top lights and decorations. Mass commences at 9:30 pm, but games and events for children begin around 6:30. If you plan to attend mass, it’s best to arrive early as seats fill up fast and the church does not permit standing observ-ers. St. Paul’s convent will hold a service for English speakers at 9 am on December 25.

The Park Hyatt is also aiming to put guests in a merry state of mind. The hotel’s current resident jazz singer, Michelle Manzo, will be playing at the Park Lounge from December 1 until February 28. The American crooner, renowned for her warm voice and versatile background, will perform on De-cember 24 and 25 from 8.30 pm until 12.30 midnight. On Christmas Day, the Hyatt will invite youngsters from the Saigon Children’s Charity to bring Christmas cheer to guests and visitors in the Park Lounge and Opera Restaurant. The kids will be caroling on the grand staircase from 7 until 8 pm with a short intermission.

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Photos by Madeleine Adamson

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We navigate our way through the throngs of people, avoiding discarded buckets and shattered glass. From every direction, whirling arms and legs come close to clocking us. Strange red marks on the sand could be blood or spilled body paint—the latter, I hope. At last, we reach the relative safety of the water. The cool breeze off the ocean is a delicious treat for my sweaty body. Suddenly, the crowd erupts with renewed vigor as Britney Spears calls for everyone to dance until the world ends.

“Ready to go back in?” Gaby asks. I nod, grab her hand, and we plunge back into the sea of glowing, gyrating partiers.

Counting downIt’s difficult to pinpoint exactly how, when or why the idea to attend a Full Moon Party was born. All I remember is counting down to it for weeks. Before we know it, my high school friend Gaby and I are purchasing 300 THB (US $9) tickets to board a ferry headed from Koh Tao to Koh Phangan. The Full Moon Party will take place on Haad Rin (Rin Beach in Thai), alleged to be the world’s third best spot to view the full moon. The party tradition was born in the mid-80s after some tourists spent one—presumably psychedelic—night dancing to trance music there. The bash now draws 10,000 to 30,000 international visitors to Koh Phangan each month.

We had arranged four nights in Tanouy Garden, a family-run establishment four kilometres from Haad Rin. The guesthouse, like most on the island, requires patrons to book several nights’ stay. Quaint and clean, if a tad disorganised, Tanouy Garden boasts an assortment of bungalows scattered through-out a hilly property, and an inviting three-tier pool. After scarfing down some tasty cashew chicken that the kitchen whips up for us, we head to Haad Rin’s main drag to purchase our party must-haves: neon shorts, body paint and glow sticks.

Crammed in the back of a tuk-tuk later that night, I cling onto Gaby as we barrel along the winding road to Haad Rin. We had heard the nights leading up to the Full Moon Party were not to be missed. When we reach Phangan’s main hub, a pack of partygoers sweeps us up and carries us to the beach, which is lined with drink stalls selling plastic buckets filled with ice and booze. JoJo, our affable bucket vendor, bops to reggae music emanating from his stall as he concocts something strong for us.

Fuelled by the contagious energy, we prance from one area of the beach to the next, refilling our bucket as necessary. One moment we’re dancing with some shirtless Aussies outside lively Tommy Resort, the next we run into fellow Canadians who buy us shots to show solidarity. We decide to stay for one last song, but that last track turns into several. At some point later that night, I pass out fully clothed on my bed.

The real dealThe following day brings a considerable amount of pain and we can’t do more than rest poolside. Before we know it, it’s 10 pm—time to don our neon shorts and sin-glets. Three of our new acquaintances—Na-than from England and Jesus and Laia from Spain—knock on our door so we can com-mence our body painting session. Adorned with pink and green swirls, we return to the masses. Since it’s the official Full Moon Party tonight we have to pay 100 baht (US $3) for an armband.

The thought of JoJo’s potion makes me want to hurl, so we track down some beers at Drop In Bar. Gaby and I quickly lose Na-than, Jesus and Laia in the crowd and agree on a meeting place in case we wind up solo.

Thousands of tourists from nearby islands have come to enjoy tonight’s festivities, so the vibe is more intense. In one particularly

raucous area, slides—of the plastic school-yard variety—are lined with torches. Partygo-ers plummet past the flames onto cushy mats below. We see several individuals with giant gashes, bruises and even some with crutches. Not surprisingly, medical tents are set up everywhere. In the designated sleep-ing area, some partied-out souls are already dead to the world.

Even I do a double take as a buxom Brit in neon thong bikini bottoms struts her stuff. She strolls past a forty-odd Thai guy manning a water taxi. He doesn’t bat an eyelid. I remember that, as a resident of Koh Phangan, he must see this kind of thing every month.

After a few drinks, we get into the swing of things and eventually reunite with our friends. We spend the next few hours grooving to hip-hop, techno, house and trance music, armed with our glowsticks and cameras. Dawn approaches, but the party is nowhere near finished. We call it a night and hitch a tuk-tuk back to our guesthouse. It has defi-nitely been an adventure, I think, as I peel off my sweaty neon garb. But I know it will take me a while to recover.

For some of the tourists we met, this was their third or fourth Full Moon Party. They’re addicted. For me the night was like sky div-ing, scaling Kilimanjaro or eating tarantula meat (if I had the balls to actually do any of those things). I survived, I had fun and I can add it to my list of feats. But once in a lifetime is enough for me.

Koh Phangan will host three parties in December. The Full Moon Party falls on De-cember 10, a Christmas party is happening on December 25 and a New Year’s bash will take place on December 31. Check out the official party website (fullmoonparty-thailand.com) for dates, tips, accommodation, party packages, photos and videos.

Partyi ng

Phangan styleMadeleine Adamson joins thousands of travellers on notorious

Koh Phangan to revel in the moonlight.

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I’ll admit, Kuala Lumpur doesn’t seem like the ideal location to spend your Christmas. There are no reindeer in sight, the equator is only a few hours away, and Islam is the official reli-gion. Last year, however, I discovered that the metropolis can give visitors a very enjoyable, albeit unconventional, yuletide break.

I arrived on Christmas Eve, and immedi-ately set out in search of food. I was staying near Kuala Lumpur City Centre, an incredibly modern area packed with enormous malls, skyscrapers and monorail lines.

Into the Melting PotI had read that food courts in Malaysian malls were actually good places to eat; unlike in the US, where they are the realm of processed food and obese teenagers. I wandered into the food court at a luxury mall and discov-ered stall after stall selling fresh Chinese, Malaysian, and Indonesian dishes—this place certainly lived up to the hype.

After shovelling down some delicious, cheap Penang Kuey Teow—the first of many, many meals over a two-day period—I headed over to the Petronas Towers.

Nestled between these amazing build-ings, which at 452 metres are the tallest twin towers in the world, is Suria KLCC, probably the world’s ultimate mall for taking care of your Christmas shopping. A group of carol-ers repeatedly sang “We Wish You a Merry Christmas” around purple Christmas trees set up in the middle of the shopping centre, while customers browsed the goods at Prada, Hermes, Versace, and dozens of other luxury stores. Surely even the most spoiled child would be able to find anything they wanted for a present here.

After eating another Malaysian specialty at the food court, I ambled around the lovely

park laid out behind the towers. Women in burqas chased after children in jeans, Bud-dhist monks took pictures with Muslim muftis, and the call to prayer from the Asy-Syakirin mosque echoed off of the space-age sky-scrapers. Malaysia’s multiculturalism was on full display.

At night, the Petronas Towers are a sight to behold, standing over the city like two shining sentinels. I enjoyed the view for a bit, and then found my way to Jalan Alor, a street that transforms into an outdoor food court every night. Rows of open-front restaurants offered seafood dishes, satays, Chinese rice and noodle delights, fresh fruit, roasted pigeons, and a number of other delicacies. I finally settled on sautéed baby spinach, half of a grilled stingray, and a huge Carlsberg—all for less than US $10.

I had only been in KL for about five hours and had already eaten three full meals, so I waddled back to my guesthouse and collapsed onto the thin bed. Much to my surprise, it didn’t break.

A Christmas FeastThis was the first time in my life that I wasn’t spending Christmas at home, so I wanted to make sure it was a good one. I started the day by going up to the top of the Menara KL, a communications tower that sits inside a forest reserve. The views from the observa-tion deck showed just how modern Kuala Lumpur is: skyscrapers spread in every direc-tion, eight-lane highways snaked between banking towers, and everything looked very organised.

Back at street level, there were far more cars than motorbikes, honking was rare, the sidewalks were clear, and everyone actually stopped for red lights. I realized that Saigon is

Michael Tatarski finds that Malaysia’s multicultural capital is a great place to spend the winter holiday.

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easily 10 years behind the Malaysian capital in terms of development.

On my way to the Colonial District I passed several Western stalwarts that I hadn’t seen since coming to Southeast Asia, namely Mc-Donalds, Burger King, and Starbucks. I also had an unpleasant episode in which I learned the hard way that, despite KL’s modernity, most public bathrooms do not provide toilet paper.

Hygiene issues resolved, I explored the Colonial District, so named because of the remaining British buildings, such as the Royal Selangor Club, birthplace of the Hash House Harriers, and the incredible Sultan Abdul Samad Building. Merdaka Square, which was a cricket ground during colonial times, is the centrepiece of the district, and is where Malaysia declared its independence in 1957.

Little India was my next stop, specifically a great vegetarian restaurant where the waiter, upon hearing that I was from the United States, asked “of America or Canada?”

The Masjid Negara, or National Mosque, was a 20-minute walk from Little India, and although I couldn’t enter it because I was wearing shorts, the mosque’s aquamarine dome and towering minaret were sights in their own right. I then took in some Is-lamic culture at the fascinating Islamic Arts Museum, which features a room exhibiting detailed models of the world’s most famous mosques.

By this point the heat of the day was be-coming oppressive, so I worked my way back to the guesthouse via monorail to rest. I set out again in the afternoon; it was time to start my Christmas meal.

Eating is possibly my favourite part of Christmas. I knew that I wouldn’t be able to find ham, green bean casserole, mashed

potatoes, or any of the other dishes my family traditionally prepares for the holiday, but that was fine by me.

I started at a mamak, or Indian Muslim, restaurant, with egg fried rice and a hot glass of Indian tea. I then came across Little India’s pasar malam, or Saturday night market, which stretched for blocks. Winding through a narrow alley, the market featured an astonishing array of food, as well as the usual cheap clothes and pirated DVDs. I had no idea what most of the food was, but everything I tried was delicious, and usually cost just a few ringgits.

Still hungry, I entered Chinatown, where Jalan Petaling anchors the action at night. I plopped down at a cart displaying veg-etables, meat, and seafood on skewers; you simply pointed to what you wanted and they cooked it for you. I also enjoyed a beer after leaving completely dry Little India. KL was where I first learned that, no matter the city, one can always count on the Chinese to have alcohol for sale.

Fully stuffed after my roving Christmas dinner I headed over to Bukit Bintang, a street bustling with shoppers and diners. There was a string of pubs at the top end of the street, and I decided to celebrate the holiday by having my own little pub crawl. Sadly, that plan disintegrated after paying the equivalent of US $7 for a bottle of Heineken. I hadn’t realised just how swanky the area was. Bloated from the meals of the past two days and running out of money, I wandered back to my guesthouse. Christmas was over for me. It was definitely the strangest one I’ve experienced, but Kuala Lumpur offered enough food, history, and culture to keep me distracted from the fact that I was homesick. What more could you ask for from a city?

Eating is possibly my favourite part of Christmas. I knew that I wouldn’t be able to find ham, green bean casserole, mashed potatoes, or any of the other dishes my family traditionally prepares for the holiday, but that was fine by me.

Photos by Michael Tatarski

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Originally introduced by the French, then abandoned as a failed endeavour, Vietnamese cacao, the beans used to make chocolate, does not have the best reputation. Samuel Maruta and Vincent Mourou say they are going to change that with their new chocolate company, Marou, by producing single-origin high-quality gourmet chocolate made with all local Vietnamese ingredients.

Although they came from different walks of life, they both arrived in Vietnam looking for something new and exciting.

Maruta worked at a French bank in Ho Chi Minh City for three years before he decided he’d had enough. “The most interesting people came out here with a backpack and started trading coffee,” he says. “I thought, ‘If only I could find something like coffee’.”

After working for a while at a Vietnamese chocolate company Maruta met Mourou, a French-American who had worked in Hollywood in the US and in advertising in HCM City. The two kept running into each other on jungle treks and around the city. After discover-ing they were both interested in making chocolate, they decided to combine resources. Mourou hadn’t seen a cacao farm yet and asked Maruta to take him, so they drove to the northwest-ern part of Ba Ria-Vung Tau

province, just under two hours from HCM City, to find a farm.

Eventually they came across a sign claiming it had cacao. They pulled in and saw beans drying in the sun. As fate would have it, this was Mr Duc’s farm and he produces the highest quality cacao they say they have found in Vietnam so far.

Mr Duc has a state of the art irrigation system with regulated pipes running above each plant to allow him to water them individually when needed. He also grafts his own plants to try to grow a higher quality bean.

Maruta and Mourou bought two kilos on the spot. “I asked Samuel, ‘What’s next’?” Mourou says. “He said, ‘Let’s start a company’.”

With that idea in mind, the two returned to Maruta’s house in District 2 and peeled 2,000 beans by hand, the only thing they say they did right with the first batch. With the little they learned from the internet, they managed to get chocolate out of the beans. They dubbed it the ‘Muhammad Ali’ because it was so strong.

“It was amazing in its poten-tial,” says Mourou. “We knew we had something.”

Then it was just a ques-tion of learning. They say they searched the internet for ideas on how to perfect their formula and even had to travel

to Singapore’s Little India to buy a proper grinder that would allow them to make real chocolate. Then they started to experiment, which sometimes took days, so they kept meticu-lous notes.

Not every experiment was successful. “We did one experiment with unroasted cacao beans in the chocolate,” says Mourou. “It tasted like woodchips.”

What they discovered was that quality chocolate was all about the beans.

“We find a taste we like then make the chocolate from that,” says Mourou. “We don’t make the chocolate taste the way we want.”

The taste they get is strong. Their chocolate has a high cacao content with no additives, which gives it a raison-like taste. “It’s not for the faint of heart,” says Mourou.

So far they have three flavours: classic dark choco-late, coffee and chocolate, and chocolate with caramelized pieces of cacao beans.

What started as a small operation in a back room in Maruta’s house has grown to a larger workshop just outside of the city in Thu Duc. They even imported an antique 1937 French coffee roaster from the south of France to roast the cacao beans. They’ve hired Arnaud Normand, a young

French chocolatier who has studied chocolate making. One important distinction they make is that Marou makes chocolate, the ingredient chocolatiers use to make chocolates. Though Normand is experienced when it comes to crafting chocolates, Maruta and Mourou had to teach him how to make choco-late from the bean.

They have also hired a Cat Tien National Park ranger as their part-time sourcing man-ager to search the jungles and farms of southern Vietnam for quality beans.

They haven’t started officially selling their chocolate yet, but they have buyers lined up. While at a dinner with Bobby Chinn, the world-renowned chef and restaurateur, Mourou says they gave him a taste and Chinn immediately put money on the table for an order.

They say feedback from enlightened buyers, like Chinn, is very important to their busi-ness. One Spanish chocolate maker at a food exhibition in Hong Kong didn’t believe they had made their chocolate in the kitchen. He thought they had melted down someone else’s chocolate and re-molded it, but nevertheless the feedback was good.

They say at this point, they know their chocolate is going to be good, the question is how good.

Two men have started the first single-origin artisanal chocolate company in Vietnam by using only high-quality local ingredients. They speak with Chris Mueller about their journey from the bean to the bar. Photo by Nam Quan.

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The battle was set to commence at 1 pm, just past the lingerie section on the second floor of the Maximark on 3 Thang 2 street. Five combatants, myself included, paid 40,000 VND each and stepped through the portal-like entrance to Laser Game, a laser tag arena with the typically literal title one expects from businesses with English names here in Vietnam.

By way of background, laser tag was invented in the 1970’s in the United States, using technol-ogy based on a training program developed by the army. Players don a vest covered in infrared sensors and lights, and use a plastic gun that fires infrared lasers. When your vest is hit by a laser it beeps, your gun is de-activated, and your lights shut

down for about five seconds. Once the vest lights back up, you are back in the game, free to fire on your opponents at will until you get shot again. Today, laser tag is usually played by pre-teens in middle school, and Barney Stinson (the character memorably played by Neil Pat-rick Harris on the sitcom How I Met Your Mother).

Suit up!After rousing the attendant from her early afternoon nap, we were each given a vest and a gun. Each set of equipment has a unique name; so that once the fighting ends you can check your scores on the screen at the entrance. Today, my nom de guerre would be Reaver, while the others were Dayglo, Sable,

Paragon, and Inferno. After some debate over who would be on which team, we decided to simply have a battle royale: every man for himself. Once the rules and operation of the guns were explained, we were set loose, each of us aiming for ultimate glory.

Battle StationsWe all chose an initial hiding spot inside the arena, which was really just a large room divided by variously shaped pieces of plywood. The decorations were an odd mix of Tahitian tiki masks and faux-hieroglyphics, lending a low-budget Indiana Jones and the Temple of Doom look to the scene. The lights went out, the techno music boomed: it was game time.

Michael Tatarski revels in a legendary laser tag battle. Photos by Fred Wissink.

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My initial plan was to jump from cover to cover, protect-ing myself from the onslaught, but all strategy quickly went out the window as the firefight devolved into a swirling blood-bath. I would kill one enemy, only to be immediately brought down by another. Oftentimes multiple participants would converge on the same poor, exposed person, leaving us guessing as to who actually got points for their death.

As I ran around wreaking merciless havoc, I realized that I was dying worryingly often, even when there was no one around me. The guns have a little screen on them that tells you who you were killed by, as well as how long you have until you come back to life. After

one mystery death I checked, and the screen said “Mine.” It was then that I noticed lit-up sensors on two of the walls. These sensors were actually emitting lasers of their own, and any time you ran past one they killed you. I had not expected these mines: there were now two more bad guys to deal with.

Adrenaline RushBy the time the war had reached the five-minute mark, every-one had figured out both the layout of the room and how to properly use their gun, and the fighting intensified dramatically. People were killing each other simultaneously; running around screaming in bloodlust; and stalking freshly killed casualties, waiting to pounce as soon as

their vest came back online. As the music blasted I slid

around corners on my slick shoes, blasting away at the backs of fleeing opponents. In between songs you could hear the women screaming and the men cursing. The combat was extremely close-quarters; in fact people often rounded a turn only to run directly into someone. It was too bad we didn’t have laser bayonets.

At one point I nearly went down in a heap, as I lost my footing on one of the ramps that leads up to the higher positions situated in several of the corners. This melee was not for the faint of heart.

We lost track of time in the hot, dark room, and the conclusion of the fight came

unexpectedly. The lights came on, the guns shut down. The battle was over. We peeled the vests off of our sweaty shirts and hurried to check the results: in first place, Reaver. In the spirit of good sportsmanship, I taunted my vanquished opponents, confident that my legendary performance would not soon be forgotten.

Absolutely parched, we shuffled back through the racks of bras and panties to the elevators. We had all lived to fight another day.

Laser Game is located at 3C 3 Thang 2, District 10. There is another laser tag arena in the Unique building at 92 Pham Van Hai, Tan Binh District.

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“Oh no, you poor thing”, “Oh crap, how will you cope?” or, as the CEO of the company I worked for deadpanned when I proudly announced I was pregnant with identical twins, “Well, I expect you’ll be resign-ing then?”

None of these are the posi-tive affirmations a parent-to-be expects to hear when they announce their happy news, but funnily enough—although ini-tially not funny ha ha—they’re the common reactions faced by parents-to-be of multiples (that is, babies x 2, 3, 4 or more!).

And once the babies arrive the barrage of innocent, yet unfortunately annoying, ques-tions and comments continue. “Are they twins/triplets?”, “Are they all yours?”, “Which one’s the good one?”, “Which one’s older?”, “Why aren’t they dressed the same?”, “How do you tell them apart?”, “Are they natural?”, and the comment most likely to get up the nose of a sleep-deprived multiple par-ent, “Double/triple the trouble!”

Newly arrived in Saigon, Canadian expats Derek and Piera White, proud parents of two-year-old triplets Brian, Eric and Simon, hav e heard all of the above and more.

Derek jokes that most people compare higher-order multiples (triplets plus) to a fate worse than cancer, but watching the instant father of three with his sons it’s clearly a badge of honour he wears with enormous pride.

“We’re the family that nobody wants to sit next to on the plane, but that can also bring benefits because we get more leg room,” Derek says.

Like most parents with young children in Saigon, parents of multiples bemoan the lack of en-tertainment options for children not to mention the overcrowd-ed, inadequate footpaths that make it difficult for a stroller let alone a double pram. But many would agree that living in Vietnam and being able to hire help at home has made life with

twins and triplets, at least in the early years, more enjoyable.

Expat Mike Doyle and wife Lien, parents of 10-month-old twins Ryan and Sarah, say car-ing for young children is easier in Saigon than America. “Here we have access to nannies and other household help that we either can’t get or wouldn’t be able to afford in America so in that respect it has been easier to have the twins here,” Mike says.

With two nannies to help out with the twins at home, Mike jokes that they made the mis-take of not taking their helpers with them on a recent holiday to Thailand. “We ended up hiring a Thai nanny but we still came home from our holiday tired”

Sharing unconventional and funny anecdotes that only other parents of multiples could relate to was the motivation behind the Saigon Multiples Club, established in August this year by American expat Catherine Walter. Mum to 16-month-old identical twins Zoe and Luna, Catherine wanted to provide a playgroup for the parents rather than the kids.

Meeting once a month over dinner and drinks, she says the club is an opportunity for Saigon’s parents of twins and triplets (she’s yet to meet par-ents of quads) to unwind away from the kids and socialise with others who can relate to their daily dilemmas.

As an exception to the rule, the parents recently got the kids together for a Halloween-themed playgroup. A total of 32 kids, including 12 sets of twins, two sets of triplets and the sib-lings turned up. Catherine says organised chaos ensued, cul-minating in a very competitive tug-o-war on the front lawn.

With 24 families, 20 sets of twins, three sets of triplets and another set of twins on the way, the Saigon Multiples Club is a support group with a vast amount of parenting experience. With children ranging in age from newborn to 15-years-old, Catherine says you could ask

any question regarding sleep-ing, feeding, behavior-related or otherwise and one of the parents in the group would likely have an answer.

It’s the kind of support group Catherine wishes she had from the beginning. “The first seven months after the girls were born were the toughest of my life. I was a naive first-time parent. I wasn’t prepared for my babies to be born premature or for the challenge of breastfeeding two at once,“ she says.

With two colicky babies Catherine admits she did not leave the house much in the early months but when she did she found it hard to find the much-needed reinforcement and advice from the other moth-ers she met in Saigon. “It made all the difference when a mum of triplets shared about coping with colicky babies; it made me believe that I could get through it.”

So, on a bad day most parents of multiples, particularly in the first few years, might casually agree with the caustic quips about double or triple the trouble, but we’ll let you in on a secret. Far from feeling sorry for ourselves, we (mostly) feel smug.

Once we overcome the trauma of double breastfeeding, coordinating sleeping sched-ules, multiple toddler tantrums and toilet training, we come up trumps. Just one pregnancy and we have an instant family or, in the case of the White’s, a beach volleyball team.

“Our kids are born with a best friend in tow and it’s un-likely we’ll hear the words “I’m bored“ that often,“ Catherine says. “As time goes by, the posi-tives of having twins or triplets by far outweigh the negatives. I never knew that I had the capacity to love two babies this much.”

For more information about the Saigon Multiples Club, contact Catherine Walter at cat.walter@googlemail.com

There’s a new playgroup on the Saigon social scene, but this one’s more about the parents than the kids. The Saigon Multiples Club was recently formed as a social and support network for parents of twins and triplets. Double the trouble or three times as nice? Mum of twins, Natasha Somerville dispels some myths.Photo by Fred Wissink.

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38 asialife HCMC

In the narrow alleys of a neigh-bourhood in Ho Chi Minh City’s District 8, the incessant honking from motorbikes subsides and the sight of shirtless men sipping coffee and playing board games turns into sarong and skullcap-clad men, and women with headscarves preparing meals.

This is a Muslim Cham area and the Masjid Jamiul Anwar, a mosque that could easily go un-noticed if it weren’t for the Arabic written on the gate, forms the centre of the community. About 1,300 of HCM City’s 5,500 Mus-lim Cham live in this area, says Idris Ismail, the president of the Representative Board of Islamic Communities of HCM City.

Although District 8 has the largest Islamic community in HCM City, pockets can be found in most districts. There are 15 mosques throughout the city, says Salam, a teacher at a mosque in Phu Nhuan District, which has an Islamic community of about 700. The biggest mosque is the Masjid Musulman on Dong Du Street in District 1. It has the most varied worshippers coming from India, the Middle East, Malaysia and Vietnam. However most of HCM City’s Muslim population, consisting of mainly Cham, wor-ships elsewhere.

There are over 100,000 Cham descendants remaining of the once dominant kingdom of Champa that ruled south and

central Vietnam between 192 and 1697. About 72,000 are followers of Islam, says Ismail.

When trade with Malaysia brought Islam to Champa it mixed with the already promi-nent Hinduism as a way to keep peace between the two religions, says Agnes de Feo, a French jour-nalist, sociologist and filmmaker who researches Cham culture. The combination resulted in the Cham Bani, a unique religion that mixes Islam, Hinduism and Cham traditions.

The Cham Bani live in Phan Rang and Phan Ri, just south of Nha Trang. About half of this population is Cham Bani, while the rest living in the Cham’s ancestral homeland follow Hinduism. De Feo made a docu-mentary about the modern-day Cham Bani in Phan Rang called A Strange Islam. One Muslim digni-tary in the documentary describes the Cham Bani as “much more advanced than current Islam.”

“We have more rights, we are freer, but it is the same Islam,” he says.

The Bani have adapted Islam to suit their culture. The dignitar-ies in the community pray and fast on the community’s behalf. Most Bani do not pray five times a day or fast during the month of Ramadan, which the Qur’an mandates all Muslims to do. They also dole out significantly less-se-vere punishments than orthodox

Muslims. According to sharia law, followers of Islam must be given 100 cane blows if they have pre-marital sex. The Bani significantly reduce this sentence by using the tip of the finger to tap the accused as a symbolic punishment.

It is also common to see men and women in Cham Bani com-munities interacting on an equal level, something that would never happen among mainstream Sunni Muslims that are found throughout Southeast Asia. The Cham are a matriarchal society and have carried this custom over to the practice of male-dominated Islam.

However, the Cham Muslims in HCM City follow sharia law and the Qur’an more tradition-ally, says Ba Trung Phu, an archaeologist who studies the Cham culture. Phu, a Cham Bani originally from Ninh Thuan prov-ince, converted to Sunni Islam after he arrived in HCM City.

Most Muslims in HCM City are small-time merchants who tend to be poor. Phu, who is distinguished among the Cham community, says this is partly due to a lack of education. This is something the Representative Board of Islamic Communities hopes to change, says Ismail. The community hopes to send more students to high school and university each year with money donated by Islamic countries and some local organisations.

Phu, a short, round man with the broad face and dark skin typical of the Chams, lives in a middle-class Vietnamese neighbourhood just outside of the Cham area in Phu Nhuan District. He says he is in the difficult posi-tion of being a Muslim, a scholar and a specialist in traditional Cham culture, which can some-times cause his ideas and beliefs to conflict.

While most Muslims from his mosque follow the custom of a male dominated society, Phu believes men and women should be equal. Though he follows mainstream Islam, his wife is still a Cham Bani, which would traditionally mean she is the head of the household.

“I am educated,” he says. “I cannot say man is better than women.”

He is also only able to pray five times a day on Saturday and Sunday, because during the week he is at work. “What would a Vietnamese person think if they came into my office and I was on the floor bowing?”

Although he is willing to bend some of the laws of Islam to more realistically suit his life, Phu says Islam and his Cham heritage are something he could never give up.

“If you ask me to leave my job or the Communist Party, no problem. But if you ask me to leave Islam, I cannot.”

Call to PrayerChris Mueller looks at the close-knit Muslim community in HCM City and some of the unique practices of Muslims in Vietnam. Photo by Fred Wissink.

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40 asialife HCMC

Do you want to taste history? Do you want to send your sens-es back more than a hundred years? It's easy to do. You can do it in Hanoi, or here in Saigon in District 1 or District 3. The old-est restaurant in this country is Cha Ca La Vong of Hanoi. And they have two outlets in Saigon these days. So if you'd like to have exactly the same ‘business-man's lunch’ (or dinner) enjoyed by folks a century ago, betake your hungry self to Cha Ca La Vong. You can go to 36 Ton That Thiep (District 1) or 3 Ho Xuan Huong (District 3). The former is small, intimate and casual. The latter is rather up market. But both are faithful reproduc-tions of the original. And the original offers one simple yet divine dish: fried fish. So where does it come from?

Cha Ca is a small street in Hanoi’s old town, just 197 yards (180 metres) from end to end. In the 19th century, it was called Hang Son, or ‘Paint Street’, because it was there that the paint sellers had their shops. At the beginning of the 20th century a restaurant was opened at Number 14. The owner was a certain Mr Doan, and his spe-cialty was fried fish, or cha ca in Vietnamese. In front of the shop, Mr Doan set up a small statue of an old fisherman, known locally as La Vong.

Owing to the quality of his goods, Mr Doan was immedi-ately successful. As time went by and more and more people came to dine, his place became known as La Vong. More time passed and the name of the street was changed to Cha Ca, Fried Fish Street.

The restaurant, now known as Cha Ca La Vong, is still there today. The place looks as seedy

as ever, although nowadays, to please its many foreign custom-ers, tables are covered with cloth and sometimes graced with flowers. It’s dimly lit, as it has been these hundred plus years, and the low ceiling makes the place feel a bit cozy, not to say cramped. The wooden floor tends to creak, one assumes a bit more than in decades past. Still, at the door, the old fisherman dangles his line in the empty air, as he has done for over a century. He seems to hook a lot of customers. The best tables

are by the windows looking down into the narrow street. No one ever calls the place ‘seedy’; rather, they say it ‘has charac-ter’.

Several years ago a competi-tor opened up across the street called Son Hai. People said the service was better, and that regular customers could always get their favourite tables. Then another opened on nearby Thuoc Bac that offered beef and chicken as well as cha ca, and in larger portions. But neither of those two places exists any more and no one speaks of them.

Cha Ca La Vong lives on, using the same kind of fish, with its firm flesh that is almost boneless. Suppliers arrive from Haiphong on the last train of the day to ensure maximum freshness. Here in Saigon it's a different species, yet still white

and firm. The fish is boned, cut into bite-sized pieces and marinated in turmeric and other spices (the full recipe is a tightly held family secret).

Unlike most restaurants in Vietnam, you must make a reservation for the Hanoi loca-tion, but it's not necessary here. But here or there the procedure is the same. The table is set with a serving of rice vermicelli for each diner, and a plate of fresh spring onions (scallions), basil leaves, and sweet dill. There is also a choice of dipping sauces.

A waitress brings in a clay brazier filled with red-hot coals in Hanoi, though it's gas fired in Saigon, and sets it right in front of you. She hurries off and re-turns with a frying pan heaped with hunks of fish, coloured yellow gold by the spices. So now you stir the herbs into the fish. Let it all bubble and sizzle a while before your hungry eyes.

Now make a little bed of rice noodles in your bowl. Spoon in a few pieces of crisply fried fish and herbs. Give it a dose of sauce. Now another. Now taste. Chew slowly, thoughtfully. See if you can recognize the herbs, the curry-like spices. See if you can deconstruct the recipe, be-cause they won’t tell you what’s in it. But I can tell you that it’s one of the best dishes in town. See you there.

Richard Sterling

At the beginning of the 20th century a restaurant was opened at Number 14. The owner was a certain Mr Doan, and his specialty was fried fish, or cha ca in Vietnamese.

Cha Ca La Vong

asialife HCMC 41

You won’t find any sushi on this menu, but that’s the point. An izakaya is a Japanese pub with inexpensive food that is meant to be eaten with alcohol, and lots of it. That’s not to say the food isn’t good, however. The menu includes a range of Japa-nese specialties ranging from 55,000 VND to 200,000 VND.

The restaurant is in Binh Thanh District on the corner of Pham Viet Chanh and Nguyen Cong Tru, just off of Nguyen Huu Canh. It’s on a quiet street and with just a small, lit sign in Japanese, it’s easy to miss. There

is a small dining area with a sit down bar on the ground level and two private rooms upstairs.

I start of with a light ap-petizer (110,000 VND) that includes simmered dried radish strips, simmered taro with minced chicken and seaweed. The combination is light and goes down well with the 180 ml bottle of sake (115,000 VND) I’m drinking. Next up is oden (200,000 VND), or Japanese stew. It includes boiled radish, tofu, boiled egg, and spinach wrapped in bacon served with Japanese mustard. The mustard

tastes like a spicy wasabi mixed with Dijon and goes well with this rather cool dish.

To finish things off, I’m given tempura shrimp and red snapper with cool soba noodles (150,000 VND). The shrimp and fish are perfect; lightly battered, crunchy on the outside and soft inside. The noodles are nice too, served with a dipping sauce made of soy sauce, wasabi, green onions and seaweed.

Of course all of this food wouldn’t be complete without the drink it’s made to go with. There are three sizes of sake

you can choose from, 180 ml (115,000 VND), 360 ml (220,000 VND) or 1800 ml (1,050,000 VND).

Japanese cuisine has a lot more to offer than just sushi. Nippon Izakaya is a great place to sample it in a friendly, warm atmosphere. If the food doesn’t bring a smile to your face, the sake certainly will.

63 Pham Viet Chanh, Binh Thanh DistrictTel: 3840 9826Open 5.30 pm to 10.30 pm, Mon-day to Saturday.

Nippon Izakaya A Japanese-style pub that offers more than just good food. Photos by Chris Mueller.

42 asialife HCMC

Walk into Agapestro, on the second floor of the River Gar-den in District 2’s leafy Thao Dien neighborhood, and it is immediately apparent that a lot of thought has been put into the restaurant. A recent addition to the Khai Silk group’s ever-expanding portfolio, the airy interior is dominated by black and white patterns, from the tiling on the floor to the chairs, sofas and tables.

There are two menus crafted by the French-trained chef at Agapestro; a la carte, which fea-tures typical French specialities; and set, which offers 3-4 course

lunches and dinner. There is also a $1 per-oyster special on at the moment, and an extensive wine and drinks list is available as well.

We began our meal with the onion soup with puff pastry (91,000 VND), which I mistook for a dessert at first. A fluffy pastry capped the soup, which was rich with flavour and per-fectly spiced.

Next were the puff pastry cases (148,000 VND), which consisted of fresh crab meat mixed with mayonnaise, stuffed between two light pastries, and topped with a tiger prawn.

For an entrée, we had the rib-eye steak with pepper cream sauce (327,000 VND). The generous portion of steak was slathered in a rich cream and covered in whole green pepper-corns, while beans in a carrot sauce and mashed potatoes were served on the side. The steak was fattier than expected, but it was extremely flavourful and cooked to perfection. The sides were excellent as well.

Finally, to finish off the feast, we tried the sinful chocopoire, or chocolate and pear with custard cream cake (38,000 VND), for dessert. A splash of raspberry

sauce on the side provided a touch of fruit flavour, and al-lowed me to pretend that I was eating something healthy.

Agapestro serves up high-quality, well-presented French cuisine in a striking setting, and is another addition to the grow-ing list of reasons for residents of the inner-city districts to head to the other side of the river.

Riverside Garden, 170 Nguyen Van Huong, Thao Dien, District 2.Tel: 08 6271 8289Open 6 pm to 10 pm seven days and 11 am to 2 pm on weekends.

Agapestro A striking addition to the city’s French restaurant scene. Photos by Alex Belikov.

asialife HCMC 43

Quo Vadis has been described by some of its loyal customers as an ‘Aladdin’s Cave’. Situated just off Hai Ba Trung, a few minutes’ walk from the Opera House, it’s a convenient meeting place with character.

The décor and atmosphere of Quo Vadis has a European flavour with its luxurious sofas, antique furniture, sculptures of Beethoven, Voltaire and Plato and large canvas oil paintings adorning the walls. Soft Jazz fills the space along with the pleas-ant, though soft interruptions of the antique Cuckoo clock.

Opened in February 2011, the

restaurant takes its name from the Latin phrase for ‘Where are you going?’. Quo Vadis has tasty Asian and European dishes which are prepared and presented by an experienced team of talented chefs. The service is friendly, informal and attentive and the prices are very reasonable.

Starters include a range of delicacies such as the delicious Coconut Soup with Prawns and Chili (60,000VND), Fried Crab with Sesame (120,000VND) and the Sour and Spicy Baked Shrimps with Cheese (240,000VND).

For the main course you might want to try the popu-lar tender Barbecue Chicken with Strawberry Sauce (120,000VND), the Australian Beef with Mushroom Sauce (270,000VND) or the Roasted Salmon with White Wine Sauce (270,000VND). Set Lunch menus are also highly recommended and start at 178,000VND per person.

To finish your meal there are a range of dessert options including the Sweet Pumpkin Flan Cake (40,000VND) or the Flying Chocolate Pud-ding (40,000VND). As well as

a selection of coffees, shakes, smoothies and juices, Quo Vadis has a great selection of cocktails all at 108,000VND. If you love wine you will find a bottle to suit your taste from the exten-sive and reasonably priced list.

Quo Vadis welcomes busi-ness guests who want a quiet, original and informal place to rendezvous. It’s also ideal for meeting friends or for couples who wish to have a romantic moment together.

5/7-5/8 Nguyen Sieu, District 1Tel: 08 3827 4313Open Daily from 8am - 11pm.

Quo Vadis Located in the heart of the city, this lounge and restaurant is an ideal place to relax and meet friends. Photos by Jonny Edbrooke.

44 asialife HCMC

Christmas EvE Parkview Restaurant Tel: 3822 8888. 76 Le Lai, District 1. Holiday Dinner Buffet, 6—11 pm, 1,872,000 VND per person. Reservations are recommended.

Restaurant NineteenTel: 3823 4999. 19 Lam Son Square, District 1.Early dining, 5—7.30 pm, 1,290,000 VND. Gala dinner, 7.30 pm—late, 1,980,000 VND.

Reflections Restaurant Tel: 3823 4999. 19 Lam Son Square, District 1.Set dinner, live Quartet Jazz per-formance and a flute of Taittinger Champagne, 1,980,000 VND.

Dynasty (New World Hotel)Tel: 3822 8888. 76 Le Lai, District 1.Chinese set menu, 6—11 pm, 1,352,000 VND. Reservations are recommended.

Orientica Seafood Restaurant and BarTel: 3839 7777 ext 8061. 242 Tran Binh Trong, District 5.Seafood buffet, 1,660,000 VND++ per person.

Chit Chat at the CaféTel: 3839 7777 ext 8061. 242 Tran Binh Trong, District 5. Buffet dinner, 1,560,000 VND.

Season’s Greetings from Corso Tel: 3829 5368 ext 6614, corso@norfolkhotel.com.vn.Ground Floor, Norfolk Hotel, 117 Le Thanh Ton, District 1. Specialties prepared by Execu-tive Chef Nguyen Quoc Dung.

Cham Charm Castle Tel: 5410 9999. 02 Phan Van Chuong, Tan Phu, Phu My Hung, District 7. Seafood Buffet, US $79 ($65 for diners on terrace and ground floor).

Market 39Tel: 3520 9483 or 3520 9434dine@icasianasaigon.com. Corner Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, District 1. Special dinner, 6—10 pm, 1,888,000 VND for adults, 888,000 VND per child (aged 5-11).

Yuchu (Intercontinental Asiana Saigon)Tel: 3520 9483 or 3520 9434dine@icasianasaigon.com.

Corner Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, District 1.Traditional Christmas dinner, 6—10 pm, 1,888,000 VND.

Basilico Tel: 3520 9483 or 3520 9434, dine@icasianasaigon.com. Corner Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, District 1.Trattoria set, 6 pm onward, 1,180,000 VND.

Christmas Day Buffet Lunch and Dinner at Nineteen Restaurant Tel: 08 3823 4999www.caravellehotel.com. 19 Lam Son Square, District 1. Festive buffet, 1,848,000 VND net for lunch (noon—2 pm) and 1,480,000 VND for dinner (7—11 pm).

Reflections Restaurant Tel: 08 3823 4999 www.caravellehotel.com. 19 Lam Son Square, District 1.A la carte menu alongside live Quartet Jazz, noon—2 pm.

Chit Chat at the Café Tel: 3839 7777 ext 8061. 242 Tran Binh Trong, District 5. Special dinner, 830,000 VND++.

Mekong MerchantTel: 3744 6478info@mekongmerchant.com, www.mmbsaigon.com. 23 Thao Dien, An Phu, District 2.Traditional roast turkey and all the trimmings.

Christmas Day Brunch and Din-ner at Parkview Restaurant Tel: 3822 8888saigon@newworldhotels.com. 76 Le Lai, District 1.Festive brunch, noon—3 pm, 1,352,000 VND. Dinner, 6—10 pm, 1,456,000 VND. Reserva-tions are recommended.

Nam Phan Restaurant Tel: 3933 3636 for more infor-mation. 34 Vo Van Tan, District 3.Special Christmas menu.

Yuchu Tel: 3520 9483 or 3520 9434, dine@icasianasaigon.com. Corner Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, District 1.‘All You Can Eat Dim Sum’ menu, noon—2:30 pm, 888,000 VND per person with champagne or 688,000 VND and 300,000 VND per child (5-11) including free flow of soft drink and juice.

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Equatorial EquatorialNew World Hotel

NEw yEar’s EvE Market 39 (Intercontinental Asiana Saigon)Tel: 3520 9483 or 3520 9434dine@icasianasaigon.com. Corner Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, District 1.Special New Year’s buffet, 6 pm—10 pm, 2,188,000 VND and 888,000 VND per child (5-11).

Yuchu Tel: 3520 9483, 3520 9434dine@icasianasaigon.com. Corner Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, District 1.Seafood buffet, 6—10 pm, 2,188,000 VND and 600,000 VND per child (5-11 years old).

Basilico Tel: 3520 9483, 3520 9434dine@icasianasaigon.com. Corner Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, District 1.Five-course menu chosen by Ex-ecutive Chef Rolando Manesco, 1.388.000 VND.

Purple Jade Tel: 3520 9483 or 3520 9434dine@icasianasaigon.com. Corner Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, District 1.Countdown party, 6 pm on-ward, 688,000 VND. Receive a 100,000 VND credit towards the entrance charge when you pres-ent your ticket.

DynastyTel: 3822 8888saigon@newworldhotels.com. 76 Le Lai, District 1.Chinese set menus, 6 pm—midnight, 1,352,000 VND.

Parkview RestaurantTel: 3822 8888saigon@newworldhotels.com. 76 Le Lai, District 1.Dinner buffet, 6 pm—midnight, 2,184,000 VND. Reservations are recommended.

Chit Chat at the CaféTel: 3839 7777 ext 8061. 242 Tran Binh Trong, District 5.International buffet dinner fol-lowed by countdown pool party, 1,650,000 VND++.

80s Under the Stars Countdown at the Equatorial Tel: 3839 7777 ext 8061. 242 Tran Binh Trong, District 5.Poolside party, 300,000 VND (free if you dine at Chit Chat at the Café or Orientica).

OrienticaTel: 3839 7777 ext 8061. 242 Tran Binh Trong, District 5.Seafood dinner, 1,750,000 VND++.

New Year’s Special Dinner at Mekong MerchantTel: 3744 6478

info@mekongmerchant.com, www.mmbsaigon.com. 23 Thao Dien, An Phu, District 2. Special set dinner.

Restaurant NineteenTel: 3823 4999www.caravellehotel.com. 19 Lam Son Square, District 1.Early dining, 5 pm—8 pm, 1,290,000 VND and gala dinner, 8 pm—late, 2,680,000 VND.

Reflections RestaurantTel: 3823 4999www.caravellehotel.com. 19 Lam Son Square, District 1.Set dinner with live Quartet Jazz performance and free flow of Taittinger Champagne, 2,680,000 VND.

Saigon Saigon Bar Countdown PartyTel: 3823 4999 www.caravellehotel.com. 19 Lam Son Square, District 1.Performances from Cuban Band Luna Negra , 800,000 VND.

Season’s Greetings from Corso Tel: 3829 5368 ext 6614email corso@norfolkhotel.com.vn www.clnorfolkhotel.com.vn. Ground Floor, Norfolk Hotel, 117 Le Thanh Ton, District 1. Seasonal specialties prepared by Executive Chef Nguyen Quoc Dung.

Au Manoir De Khai Tel: 3930 3394. 251 Dien Biên Phu, District 3. A festive feast, 2,835,000 VND.

Cham Charm Castle Tel: 5410 9999. 2 Phan Van Chuong, Phu My Hung, District 7. New Year’s Eve buffet, 1,659,000 VND (1,365,000 VND for those who sit on terrace and ground floor).

Ming Dynasty Tel: 5411 5555. 23 Nguyen Khac Vien, Phú My Hung, District 7.Chinese special set dinner, 2,520,000 VND.

NEw yEar’s Day Chit Chat at the Café (Equato-rial) Tel: 3839 7777 ext 8061. 242 Tran Binh Trong, District 5.Brunch, 790,000 VND++.

Restaurant NineteenTel: 08 3823 4999www.caravellehotel.com. 19 Lam Son Square, District 1.Lunch buffet, 1,848,000 VND and a dinner buffet, 7 pm—10.30 pm for 1,848,000 VND with a live Quartet Jazz performance and one flute of Taittinger Champagne.

Cham Charm Castle Corso Ming Dynasty

46 asialife HCMC

1. Olive Oil based gift set - L'apothiquaire - 960,000 VND2. A set of Wild Rose, Almond and Hemp hand creams - The Bodyshop - 557,000 VND

3. Eco-friendly limited edition tins of Steamcream - L'apothiquaire - 390,000 VND 4. Gift box medium WHITE MUSK® shower, soften & spritz - The Bodyshop - 1,257,000 VND

5. Gift cube Moringa shower & moisture set - The Bodyshop - 322,000 VND

1. NAIMA Calin Doll - DLS - 1,309,000 VNDLAUGHING FLOWER Calin Doll - DLS - 1,419,000 VND

2. TGANIE Christmas Robe - DLS - 569,000 VND LMYNO shirt w/ attached graphic tie + KIKO sailing vest + TUNU trousers - DLS - 1,467,000 VND

3. LONIE Floral-Voile dress - DLS - 689,000 VNDGINOLU Red-Velvet Blazer + HANOI Vest+Trousers - DLS - 1,698,000 VND

4. Red Christmas stocking - Vietnam Quilt - 315,000 VNDWhite Christmas stocking - Vietnam Quilt - 420,000 VND

5. CHOUQUETTE BRUNE Doll (36 cm) - DLS - 2,359,000 VND

asialife HCMC 47

1. Gift Duo Men Face - The Bodyshop - 363,000 VND 2. Silicon Valley By Night Wrinkles Intensive Night Repair - L'apothiquaire - 2,090,000 VND

Maximum Time - Fighting Eye Concentrate - L'apothiquaire - 1,483,000 VND 3. Gift Small Men Face - The Bodyshop - 1,097,000 VND

4. Super Clean Scrubbing gel - L'apothiquaire - 820,000 VND5. Gift Box Med White Musk Sport Men - The Bodyshop - 1,988,000 VND

1. Christmas tree 3D big size - Vietnam Quilt - 147,000 VND 2. Sparkling iron Christmas tree - Decosy - 210,000 VND

3. Rattan heart/ tree/ star/ pine - Mekong Creation - all cost 84,000 VND each 4. Good morning Gift set - Electrolux - 2,000,000 VND

5. Christmas wreath big size - Vietnam Quilt - 315,000 VND6. Christmas cone - Vietnam Quilt - 105,000 VND

48 asialife HCMC

You might arrive at this District 1 location and think you have the wrong address. Don’t turn away yet. If you walk through the Vietnamese restaurant on the first floor and ascend a secretive staircase next to the kitchen, you will see a painted sign pointing to a well-concealed café. At the top of the staircase is a space that would make any 10-year-old-boy go nuts.

On one wall an immense street art-like mural depicts road signs and funky cars in vibrant colours—a red convertible, yellow Cadillac, blue Beetle. The other walls are coated in a striking shade of deep blue. Each chair has been assembled from three carefully stacked car tires—two for the bum and one for the back. Bright red pillows add extra cushioning. Tires even serve as some of the tables (a cut piece of glass on top creates a flat surface). An imitation retro Beetle protrudes from one wall

as if it has cruised into the room from another realm. The hood of the vehicle is conveniently absent, allowing customers to take a load off in the driver’s or passenger’s seat.

Wheel House Café was kick started three years ago by two young friends in their second year of university. Nguyen Thanh Thu and Tran Nguyet Anh knew they needed part-time jobs. Their entrepreneurial nature motivated them to open a venture of their own. So they put the wheels in motion and spent a year designing and setting up this hip hangout. Where did they source the car parts? “My friend has a garage, so I looked through there to find what I needed,” says Nguyet Anh.

Thanh Thu is a passionate collector of model cars and even belongs to the Hot Wheels Club of Vietnam. Mounted shelves throughout the café showcase the impressive array of minia-

ture cars she has amassed. She brings out a scale model Cor-vette with working seatbelts and doors that click open and shut.

Each drink on the menu is in keeping with Wheel House’s motor-powered motif. Thirst-quenching concoctions include Rocket Fuel (orange and carrot juice) and Battery Charge (a passion fruit, coconut, pine-apple and orange smoothie). Other beverages—from coffee to milkshakes to soda floats—boast names like Corvette, Lamborghi-ni and Acura. While the place doesn’t serve food, customers can order dishes from the down-stairs Vietnamese eatery and have them brought upstairs.

A more intimate area resides atop a winding spiral staircase. The small, attic-like space—which can be reserved for private functions—boasts the same vibrant blue walls and trendy tire seats as the larger room below.

The groovy design, young clientele, and sounds of the Beatles and Simon and Garfun-kel emanating from large speak-ers might remind customers of a college dive. Books and games on shelves encourage patrons to stay awhile and recharge their batteries, Nguyet Anh explains.

While Nguyet Anh and Thanh Thu clearly have an eye for design, the idea to create the café also stemmed from their passion for the environment. “I believe in the three Rs: Recycle, Reduce, Reuse,” says Nguyet Anh. She adds that owning Wheel House Café will hope-fully send a message to young Vietnamese clients that old things can become new again—you just need a bit of resource-fulness, creativity and great friends to help you out. Given the success of their pioneering project, the duo are planning to open another District 1 venue sometime down the road.

Wheel House Café

Trash becomes trendy in this District 1 coffee shop. By Madeleine Adamson. Photos by Nam Quan.

B E H I N D T H E D E S I G N

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There is much more to the con-sumption of wine than just the drinking. There is of course the aroma, the colour, the heft of the glass in your hand that all add to the experience. If you are going to invest in even medium quality wine, let alone the more hip-pocket crippling variety, it is worth considering making an invest-ment in the glasses you drink from.

There are two primary things to consider when choosing the proper receptacle for your wine: material and shape.

Lead crystal is commonly used in the manufacture of high-quality wine glasses. It is heavier so the resulting glasses have a more substantial feeling and it offers more workability during production. Allowing oxygen to interact with the wine is a key to experiencing its full flavour and character, and as lead crystal is rougher than glass on a microscopic level, it allows the liquid to breathe more efficiently when swirled in the bowl. Lead crys-tal also has a higher index of refraction which changes the effect of light passing through. This is said to better bring out the colour of the wine.

The main components of the wine glass are the bowl, stem and base. It is generally accepted that when drink-ing white or sparkling wines

that the glass be held by the stem so as not to impart any body warmth to the liquid. The bowl of the glass varies dramatically depending on the type of wine it is designed for.

The theory that the shape of the bowl can influence the taste and bouquet of wine is still the subject of some conjecture and has not been definitively proven, although the concept has some very influential adherents. The idea is that the shape of the glass directs the liquid to the part of the mouth that is most recep-tive to that particular varietal.

Glasses for red wine are characterised by their rounder, wider bowl, which increases the rate of oxidation. Examples include the Bordeaux glass, which is tall with a broad bowl, and is designed for full bodied red wines like Caber-net Sauvignon and Syrah as it directs wine to the back of the mouth. Burgundy glasses in comparison are broader, with a bigger bowl to accumulate aromas of more delicate red wines such as Pinot Noir. This style of glass directs wine to the tip of the tongue.

White wine glasses vary enormously in size and shape, from the delicately tapered Champagne flute, to the wide and shallow glasses used to drink Chardonnay. To preserve a crisp, clean flavour, many white wine glasses will have a

WINE GLASSES

ConnoisseurIT'S OK TO LIKE NICE THINGS

smaller mouth, which reduces surface area and in turn, the rate of oxidisation.

Champagne flutes are an extreme example of this with the very small mouth of the bowl designed to help retain the carbonation. Additionally, the flute design adds to the aesthetic appeal of champagne, allowing the bubbles to travel further due to the narrow design, giving a far more pleasant visual appeal.

Much of the credit for this development in glass-specific shapes for different varietals can be attributed to Claus Rie-del. The Riedel family has been in the business of producing fine wine glasses for more than 300 years, but it was about half a century ago that Claus developed, with the aid of master winemakers and other experts, a range of glasses specifically tailored to different grape varieties.

The main Riedel fac-tory in Kufstein, Austria still hand blows the bowls for its premium range of wine glasses. Legendary wine writer Robert Parker says of Riedel’s products, “The effect of these glasses on fine wine is profound. I cannot emphasize enough what a difference they make.”

Reason enough then to think about what you are drinking out of next time you uncork that special bottle.

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AIRLINESair asia254 De Tham, D1 Tel: 3838 9810www.airasia.com Asia’s largest low-cost airline operates one daily flight between HCM City-Hanoi, as well as international flights to Bang-kok, Phuket, Jakarta and Kuala Lumpur.

air france130 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3829 0981 ext. 82Fax: 3822 0537www.airfrance.com.vn An airline with a vast and effective global network. Now flies direct to Paris.

Cathay Pacific72-74 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D3Tel: 3822 3203www.cathaypacific.comHong Kong-based airline makes three flights daily to HCM City and two flights daily to Hong Kong’s international airport. Fares start at about $300.

hotel & travel

listings Malaysia airlinesUnit G8 Ground floor, SG Trade Center 37 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3824 6663www.malaysiaairlines.comOffers daily flights from Hanoi and HCM City to Kuala Lumpur for about $200 round trip, with four economy class fare levels: low, basic, smart and flex.

Vietnam airlinesHanoi: 25 Trang Thi, Hoan KiemTel: 6270 0200 HCM City: 16th Floor, Sun Wah, 115 Nguyen Hue, D1Tel: 3832 0320www.vietnamairlines.com.vnThe domestic route map is extensive, with several flights daily between major and less touristed cities throughout Vietnam. Flies internationally throughout Asia and to Paris, Frankfurt, Moscow, Sydney, Melboure, Los Angeles and San Francisco.

CON DAOCon Dao Resort8 Nguyen Duc Thuan Tel: 06 4830 949www.condaoresort.comModern hotel with 45 rooms and seven villas set on 2km of private beach. On-premise facilities include restaurant, bar, beach-view swimming pool, tennis court and volleyball. Organizes outdoor activi-ties and tours.

DALATana Mandara Villas Resort & Spa Le Lai, Ward 5, Dalat Tel: 063 3555 888www.anamandara-resort.comLuxury 35-acre resort encompasses 17 restored early 20th-century villas and

65 rooms set in the rural highlands. La Cochinchine Spa offers wide range of treatments. Le Petite Dalat Restaurant serves Vietnamese and fusion cuisine. Heated swimming pool, art gallery and cooking classes in organic garden.

Mercure Dalat7 Tran Phu, Dalat Tel: 063 3825 777www.mercure.com Built in 1932 as the Hotel Du Parc, this 144-room resort pairs French colonial architecture with modern amenities. Cafe De Le Poste serves French home-style, international and Vietnamese cuisine. Facilities include tennis court and sauna.

Sofitel Dalat Palace 12 Tran Phu, Dalat Tel: 063 3825 444www.accorhotels-asia.com Stately lakeside hotel was built in 1920s and retains the period’s aesthetic. It encompasses 38 rooms, five suites, a gourmet restaurant, brasserie, piano bar and Larry’s Bar. Golf can be arranged, and there’s tennis, boules, snooker and billiards on premise.

activitiesPhat Tire Ventures73 Truong Cong Dinh Tel: 63 3829 422www.phattireventures.comRuns guided trips for hiking/trekking, mountain biking, rock climbing, kayaking and canyoning in the highlands sur-rounding Dalat.

Dalat Easy Rider Tours70 Phan Dinh Phungdalateasyriders@yahoo.comwww.dalat-easyrider.comRide pillion with English-, French- or

German-speaking tour guides on motor-bike adventures that start in Dalat and snake through mountains, jungles and deltas, lasting anywhere from three to 21 days. Trips terminate in Nha Trang, Hoi An, Hanoi, Mui Ne or HCM City. All hotels and entrance fees included.

HANOIintercontinental Westlake Hanoi1A Nghi Tam, Tay Ho Tel: 04 6270 8888www.intercontinental.comLocated on the waterfront with contem-porary Vietnamese design, restaurants, business services, fitness centre includ-ing exercise classes and pool.

Melia Hanoi Hotel44B Ly Thuong Kiet Tel: 04 3934 3343www.meliahanoi.comLocated in the city centre with 306 com-fortable guestrooms elegantly decorated, complete with a host of modern ameni-ties. Dining includes Asian cuisine at El Patio and El Oriental, snacks at Cava Lounge and tapas at Latino Bar.

Mercure Hanoi la Gare94 Ly Thuong Kiet Street, Hoan KiemTel: 04 3944 7766www.accorhotels.comSituated in the Old Quarter with 102 bright, spacious and modern rooms, Brasserie Le Pavillion restaurant serves Vietnamese and international cuisine.

Mövenpick Hotel Hanoi83A Ly Thuong KietTel: 3822 2800www.moevenpick-hotels.comConveniently located in the heart of Hanoi’s business district, a 40-minute

escape take flight with travel promotions around the region

Naturopath and Wellness Consultant at Pilgrimage Village From December 3 until January 9, head to Pilgrimage Village and Vedana Lagoon to experience the works of Australian-trained Naturopath and Wellness Consultant David Arensen, ND. Book a free 15-minute tester session and if you book three sessions with David receive a free 30-minute meditation class. David can guide children and adults through changes, emotional stress and negativity issues, relationship difficulties, self-esteem problems and more. Visit pil-grimagevillage.com or vedanalagoon.com.

Intercontinental Dine & StayPackageChoose one of the festive programs and extend your celebration in this season by staying at InterContinental Asiana Saigon for the highest level of luxury and comfort. Personalized service awaits you in one of our elegantly- appointed Deluxe rooms.

Rate is at 6.927.095 VND* / couple, including breakfast, a celebration dinner at Yu Chu or Market 39 for two persons. Offer is available for your stay on Christmas Eve – 24 December 2011 or New Year’s Eve – 31 December 2011.

Family-Friendly Fabulous FuramaThe Christmas and New Year’s ‘Fam-

ily Friendly Fabulous Furama’ Package is priced from 23,940,000VND++ and 28,350,000VND++ for a three-nights’ stay in two connecting rooms including a Christmas or New Year’s Gala Dinner, daily breakfast and round trip airport transfers. The validity of the Christmas Package is from December 22 until December 28, and the New Year's Package is from December 29 until January 2. Call now for reservations and air ticket booking assistance 84-511-3847 333/888, email reservation@furamavietnam.com or log onto furamavietnam.com.

Magic Season Package at theNew World Hotel The attractive offer for two includes one night’s accommodation in a beautiful guestroom, a full American breakfast at Parkview, afternoon tea with Christmas Stollen at The Lounge, a holiday turndown treat at bedtime and a festive dinner at Parkview on December 24 or 31. The package is priced at 6,050,000 VND for two guests, excluding tax and service charge (from December 24 to 25) and 6,650,000 VND for two guests, excluding tax and service charge (from December 31 to January 1). Reservations are required. Call 3822 8888 or email saigon@new-worldhotels.com.

A Promo for Australians andNew ZealandersIn December, Life Resorts is slashing room rates for all Australians and New Zealand-ers residing in Vietnam. The ‘Passport to Life’ promo offers special prices to residents who stay at any of the four-star Life Resorts properties within their speci-fied 30-day period. Beach holidays at Blue Ocean Resort Mui Ne are priced at US $65 a night for a Standard Room. Life Wellness Resort Quy Nhon is offering its Superior Room for US $65 a night. In historic Hoi An, a superior room at Life Heritage Resort along the Thu Bon River will cost US $75 each night. For inquiries call 3844 3605 or visit life-resorts.com.

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drive from Noi Bai International Airport and only 5 minutes from the city centre, Mövenpick Hotel Hanoi is the latest five-star hotel in town, tailored to meet the needs of discerning guests and especially corporate travellers. Sheraton Hotel HanoiK5 Nghi Tam, 11 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 04 3719 9000www.starwoodhotels.com“Resort within a city” boasts 299 spa-cious guest rooms with panoramic views, fitness centre, international restaurant and Hemisphere Vietnamese restaurant.

Sofitel Metropole15 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem Tel: 04 3826 6919www.sofitel.comLocated downtown. Colonial-style hotel with well-regarded restaurants/bars serv-ing French & Vietnamese cuisine, plus Italian steak house.

HO CHI MINH CITYCaravelle Hotel19 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3823 4999www.caravellehotel.comOne of the city’s most prestigious venues. Features a casino, Reflections Restaurant and al fresco 9th-floor Saigon Saigon Bar.

equatorial242 Tran Binh Trong D5 Tel: 3839 7777www.equatorial.com/hcmOn the intersect of 4 districts, with 333 rooms, Orientica Seafood restaurant and bar, Chit Chat cafe, pool (swim-up bar), gym.

interContinental asiana SaigonCorner of Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3520 9999saigon@interconti.comwww.intercontinental.com/saigon305 rooms/suites with floor-to-ceiling windows, five restaurants/bars, meeting/

banquet facilities, spa/health club and lounge with panoramic view.

Mövenpick Hotel Saigon253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 9222www.moevenpick-saigon.comHas 278 well-appointed rooms/suites, five restaurants/bars, meeting/banquet facilities and a shopping arcade as well as a popular e-gaming centre.

New World Hotel76 Le Lai, D1 Tel: 3822 8888www.newworldsaigon.comLocated in the city centre, with gym, outdoor pool, tennis court, event space and Dynasty Chinese restaurant.

Park Hyatt2 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3824 1234www.saigon.park.hyatt.comLuxury colonial-style hotel includes 21 suites, lobby lounge with live music, Xuan Spa, pool, gym, international dining at Square One.

Renaissance Riverside8-15 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3822 0033www.renaissancehotels.com349 rooms/suites with panoramic views over Saigon River. Conference/ban-quet facilities, rooftop pool, gym, two restaurants.

Sheraton88 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 2828www.sheraton.com/saigonLuxury downtown hotel with Level 23 bar, Mojo cafe, Li Bai Chinese restaurant, fine dining at The Signature on the 23rd floor.

Sofitel Saigon Plaza17 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3824 1555www.sofitel.com/2077One of the city’s top hotels with in-room Wi-Fi, two restaurants with international

cuisine, two bars, six conference rooms, outdoor swimming pool, fitness centre.

Windsor Plaza18 An Duong Vuong, D5Tel: 3833 6688services@windsorplazahotel.comwww.windsorplazahotel.comLocated in a main shopping hub. Three restaurants, modern discotheque, conference centre, shopping centre, supermarket.

activitiesSaigon Scooter Centre25/7 Cuu Long, Tan Binh DistrictTel: 4848 7816www.saigonscootercentre.comOne-stop rental service with a wide selec-tion of scooters/motorbikes available for around town travel or long trips.

Vietnam Vespa Adventures169 De Tham, D1, Pham Ngu LaoTel: 3920 3897www.vietnamvespaadventures.comHeadquaters located in Cafe Zoom. Offers 3-day trips to Mui Ne, 8-days to Nha Trang or half-day tours of HCMC on classic Vespas.

HOI AN & DANANGlife Resort Hoi an1 Pham Hong Thai, Hoi AnTel: 0510 3914 555www.life-resorts.comWithin walking distance of Hoi An. Rooms are chic and minimalist, offering all the mod cons. Two restaurants, two bars and an outdoor pool.

Nam HaiTel: 0510 3940 000 www.ghmhotel.comLuxury resort accommodation from single villas to sumptuous five-room dwellings with private pools. Facilities include 8

private spa villas; 3 beachfront swimming pools; library; and tennis, basketball and badminton courts.

Victoria Hoi an Beach Resort & SpaCua Dai Beach Tel: 0510 3927 040www.victoriahotels-asia.comSet on its own stretch of beach with 105 rooms spread through a traditional fishing village design of small “streets” and ponds.

activitiesHoi an Motorbike adventuresTel: 0918 230 653www.motorbiketours-hoian.comTwo-wheeled tours of the Central High-lands, Ho Chi Minh Trail, Monkey Mountain and more on a fleet of Minsk dirt bikes and fully and semi-automatic motorbikes. Customers can drive or be driven on half- to five-day trips.

Mango Cruiseinfo@mangorooms.comChef Duc from the celebrated Mango Rooms restaurant and his wife Ly offer a cruise down the Thu Bon River, complete with a meal from a menu created by Duc himself.

HUEMercure Hue Gerbera38 Le Loi Tel: 054 3946 688www.mercure.comOverlooking the Perfume River, this cen-trally located hotel has 110 contemporary rooms. Local Hue cuisine and international fare served at Le Bordeaux, and drinks served up top at Sky Bar or in the ground-floor Lobby Bar.

Pilgrimage Village Resort & Spa130 Minh Mang Tel: 054 3885 461www.pilgrimagevillage.comBoutique resort with hut, bungalow and villa accommodation draws on natural environment and local culture. Features

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Vedana spa, two restaurants serving Vietnamese & Western food and imported wines and three bar/lounges.

NHA TRANGevason Hideaway at ana MandaraNinh Van Bay, Ninh Hoa, Khanh HoaTel: 058 3728 222www.sixsenses.com/hideaway-anamandaraAn island hideaway accessible only by boat, 58 private pool villas, international and local restaurants, wedding services, water sports and scuba diving.

evason ana Mandara Nha TrangBeachside, Tran Phu, Nha TrangTel: 058 3522 222www.sixsenses.com/evason-anamandaraBeachside resort set in 26,000 square me-tres of tropical garden, with 74 guest villas, three restaurants, Six Senses Spa.

Sheraton Nha Trang Hotel & Spa26 - 28 Tran Phu, Nha Trang, Khanh Hoa Tel: 58 388 0000www.sheraton.com/nhatrang Luxury hotel with 284 ocean view rooms, six restaurants and bars, club lounge, infin-ity edge swimming pool, spa, yoga studio, cooking school, Sheraton Adventure Club and (connected at) Link@Sheraton.

PHAN THIETl’anmien Beach ResortMui Ne Beach, KM10, Ham Tien WardTel: 062 3741 888www.lanmienresort.comBeachfront resort with 90 fully equipped rooms, business centre, spa, fitness centre and outdoor pool.

Princess D’annam Resort and SpaKhu Hon Lan, Tan Thanh, Ham Thuan Nam, Binh ThuanTel: 062 3682 222www.princessannam.comLocated on Ke Ga Bay with 57 exclusive villas, eight swimming pools, two res-taurants and 1,800 square metres spa complex.

The Sailing Club24 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet Tel: 062 3847 440www.sailingclubvietnam.comOpen bar overlooking the sea, spacious rooms, restaurant, swimming pool and day spa.

Victoria Phan Thiet Resort and SpaMui Ne Beach Tel: 84 62 3813 000www.victoriahotels-asia.comLocated on a private beach, 60 cosy bun-galows, natural spa experiences among other great activities on offer at the resort.

activitiesC2Sky KitesurfingSunny Beach, 64-66 Nguyen Dinh Chieu Tel: 0916655241www.c2skykitecenter.comOperates two schools roughly 500m apart, staffed by IKO-certified instructors. Offers a half dozen course types, as well as instructor training. Equipment rental and repair.

WindChimes SchoolSaigon Mui Ne Resort, 56 Nguyen Dinh Chieuwww.kiteboarding-vietnam.comSurf school situated on 235m of beach of-fers kiteboarding, windsurfing and surfing classes in multiple languages taught by IKO-certified instructors. Equipment rented and trips organised. Satellite school at Bamboo Village Resort.

PHU QUOCla VerandaWard 1, Duong Dong BeachTel: 077 3982 888www.laverandaresort.comSet amid tropical gardens along a beach.

Features a highly-rated spa, beach grill, Vietnamese, Asian and European cuisine.

Mango BayOng Lang Beach, Phu QuocTel: 0903 382 207www.mangobayphuquoc.comLow-cost seaside resort with ecological outlook promotes nature activities, forest walks, snorkelling, open-air seafood restaurant. No TV or telephone.

SAPAVictoria Sapa ResortSapa District, Lao Cai ProvinceTel: 020 0871 522www.victoriahotels-asia.comMountain chalet perched over the vil-lage wth cosy but modern guestrooms overlooking the lawn and garden. Ta Van restaurant overlooks Mount Fansipan and Ta Fin bar has a stone hearth fireplace. Connection from Hanoi by private train.

SCUBA DIVINGNote: AsiaLIFE only lists dive centres recognized by international dive training programs, such as the Professional As-sociation of Dive Instructors (PADI) and Scuba Schools International (SSI). We strongly advise against diving with unac-credited dive centres in Vietnam. Rainbow Divers55 Nguyen Giai Dang, An Phu, D2Tel: 3744 6825www.divevietnam.comDiving tours and career/instructor develop-ment offered by Vietnam’s first PADI centre. established in the mid-90s. All courses can be started at the state-of-the-art dive centre in An Phu, from beginner pool work and theory to divemaster and instructor certification. Operates dive centres in Nha Trang, Whale Island, Hoi An and Phu Quoc.

Octopus Diving62 Tran Phu, Nha Trang058 826 528www.divenhatrang.comPADI/SSI dive centre based in Nha Trang and affiliated with the Sailing Club Co., with additional centres in Mui Ne and Hoi An. Offers a range of services, including children’s Bubblemaker classes, courses in specialised techniques and divemaster certification.

VUNG TAUHo Tram Beach Resort & SpaHo Tram Village, Xuyen Moc Tel: 06 4378 1525www.hotramresort.comLocated about 45km from Vung Tau in the Phuoc Buu Reserve Forest, Ho Tram Beach Resort & Spa boasts uniquely designed bungalows and villas.

TRAVEL AGENTSBuffalo Tours agencyHCMC: 81 Mac Thi Buoi, D1Tel: 3827 9170Hanoi: 94 Ma May, Hoan Kiem DistrictTel: 04 3828 0702www.buffalotours.com.vnTailor-made itineraries, community-based tourism, cultural tours, adventure trips, golfing and premium trips offered by locally run and well-respected travel agent.

exotissimoHCMC: 20 Hai Ba Trung St, D1Tel: 3827 2911infosgn@exotissimo.comSD5-2 Grand View, Nguyen Duc Canh, Phu My Hung, D7 Tel: 5412 2761/62 pmh@exotissimo.comHANOI: 26 Tran Nhat Duat St, Hoan Kiem Tel: 04 3828 2150infohanoi@exotissimo.comwww.exotissimo.comFrench-owned agency specializing in flight bookings, package holidays and a range of well-run cultural and historical tours of Vietnam and Southeast Asia.

Coming to this month, Shang Palace is delighted to welcome our new Hong Kong roasting chef Cheng Yiu Kwong and his special dish of the month that surely tempts BBQ lovers.

Chef Cheng Yiu Kwong, bringing 30 years of culinary experience in Hong Kong and Philippine, will prepare one of his favorite “BBQ Roasted Goose”, which is suitable for family and friend reunion events. Gourmets also enjoy “Stewed Goat Rib in Casserole” enclosed in December set menu as a great addition to renew yourtaste buds.

Come and try Shang Palace special dishes of the month for your unforgettable experience.

1st Floor , 17-19-21 Ly Tu Trong, District 1, HCMC, VietnamTel: (84 8) 3823 2221 - (84 8) 3822 6111 Ext: 164 - Fax: (84 8) 3822 6116

Email: reservation@shangpalace.com.vn - Website: www.shangpalace.com.vn

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BAR RESTAURANTSala Mezon10 Chu Manh Trinh, D1 Tel: 6291 0447www.alamezon.vnColourful four-storey venue serves fusion French-Japanese cuisine, as well as cocktails and wine by the glass. Space spans a restaurant, lounge and main bar and spacious, airy rooftop. Open 5 pm to late.

alibi5A Nguyen Sieu, D1 Tel: 3822 3240Hip without being showy, this versatile venue has a pleasant front porch, stand up bar and comfortable lounge seating with bright, warm décor and great tunes. Drinks list is extensive and the food menu boasts French-style mains.

Bernie's Bar & Grill19 Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3822 1720Serves a solid menu of certified Angus and imported Aussie steaks, fresh pasta, thin crust pizza, sandwiches and mains in an old school steak house setting. Drink menu includes smoothies, cocktails, premium wines and spirits and Saigon's largest martini.

food & drink

listingsBuddha Bar7 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 2080An Phu institution serves up tasty meals and good drinks in a friendly, chilled envi-ronment. Plenty of room to relax inside or out, plus a pool table on premise.

Cafe latin17 Dong Du, D1In its third location, this expat favourite continues to deliver good food, an extensive drink list and a comfortable atmosphere. Two levels to watch sport on or simply unwind. Said to serve the best chicken parmigiana in Vietnam.

Corso Steakhouse & BarNorfolk Hotel, 117 Le Thanh Ton, D1Located in the chic Norfolk Hotel Corso Steakhouse & Bar is well known for its steak imported from the US and Aus-tralia. Good destination for both lunch and dinner.

la Habana6 Cao Ba Quat, D1 Tel: 3829 5180www.lahabana-saigon.comThis charming little place has seating indoors and outdoors, upstairs and downstairs to fit your dining pleasure.Relaxed environment with frequent live music. Offers Spanish and Cuban fare including paella and a tapas fiesta com-prising three plates. Open late daily. le Pub175/ 22 Pham Ngu Lao, D1 www.lepub.orgOne of Pham Ngu Lao’s favourite watering holes, Le Pub also has a good menu of well-executed pub grub and international favourites. Hearty breakfast is available all day and specials are of-fered daily.

Mogambos50 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3825 1311This restaurant has been around since

the mid-1990s, which offers an insight into its enduring quality. Specializes in American grain-fed steaks, hamburg-ers and salads served in a pleasant atmosphere.

O’Brien’s74/A2 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3829 3198A large Celtic-style pub popular with media types that has an interior done in brickwork and wood, and an upstairs dining area. Draught beer is happy hour between 3 pm and 7 pm. Great pizzas.

Pasha Bar & Restaurant25 Dong Du, D1 Tel: 08 629 136 77www.pasha.com.vnTurkish–Mediterranean restaurant located in heart of HCMC serves halal and high quality food with ingredients imported from Turkey, Spain, Singapore, Egypt, New Zealand, Japan and France. Long happy hour half price by glass. Various shisha flavours.

Phatty’s46-48 Ton That Thiep, D1Tel: 3821 0705www.phattysbar.comJaspa’s Steve Hardy and Ben Winspear’s sports bar has five widescreen TVs, a large drop-down screen and lots of pub grub and beer for fans looking to take in a game or two.

Qing110 Pasteur, D1www.qing.com.vnSophisticated downtown bar just off Le Loi specializes in Asian tapas, Asian/South American fusion dishes and a few delectable deserts. Variety of good wines by the glass or bottle.

Sheridan’s irish House17/13 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3823 0793www.sheridansbarvn.com

Cosy Irish pub with authentic Irish decor, a pleasant atmosphere and regular live music. Wide range of classic pub grub, East Asian dishes and a fantastic break-fast fry-up available from 8 am.

Storm P Bar & Restaurant5B Nguyen Sieu, D1 Tel: 3827 4738www.stormp.vnThis friendly hangout is a favourite with both the Scandinavian community and English-speaking expats. Offers Danish cuisine to go with the drinks.

The TavernR2/24 Hung Gia 3, Bui Bang Doan, D7 Tel: 5410 3900Boasts good international food, a pool table, dartboards and sports coverage on large screens. Outdoor seating on mutiple levels. Second floor sports lounge hosts DJs at the weekends.

ZanZBar41 Dong Du, D1Funky, modern interiors and varied international breakfast, lunch and din-ner cuisine. Imported beers, cocktails, gourmet espresso coffee, and happy hours make ZanZBar a great after-work spot. Open late.

CAFESannam Cafe16-18 Hai Ba TrungCosy corner cafe with free Wi-Fi over-looking Hai Ba Trung. Serves a slate of gourmet sandwiches, coffee and wine.

Bobby Brewer’s45 Bui Vien, D1 Tel: 3920 409070 Nguyen Cong Tru, D1 Tel: 3821 810086 Pham Ngoc Thach, D3 Tel: 6299 1990www.bobbybrewers.comThis is an attractive fast-food style coffee shop with friendly staff and good lattes.

feast broaden your palate with promotions around town

Caravelle’s Festive High Tea From December 3 to 23, from 2.30 until 5.30 pm, indulge in Christmas goodies in the festive Lobby Lounge. Enjoy orange scones with whipped cream and straw-berry preserves, traditional English baked minced beef pie in golden crust, Dresdner Christmas Stollen, assorted Christmas cookies and fruitcake. Call 3823 4999. Ground Floor, 19 Lam Son Square,District 1.

Café Central An Dong’s Seasonal Specialties Café Central An Dong will serve honey-glazed ham, roast turkey, Yule logs, Stollen and other festive delicacies alongside their regular international lunch and dinner buf-fets. Bring your Windsor VIP card to receive a 10% discount.

Pick up Christmas cookies and treats from the Gingerbread House on the 4th floor of the hotel. Arrange a Christmas Hamper for loved ones with your choice of sweets, wines, and chocolates. Open daily from 6 am until 10 pm. Call 3833 6688 ext 2221 or email cafecentral@windsorplazahotel.com.

Fourth floor, Windsor Plaza Hotel, 18 An Duong Vuong, District 5.

Shang Palace Welcomes New Chef From December 1 to 31, Shang Palace is de-lighted to introduce a signature dish prepared by their new roasting chef from Hong Kong, Cheng Yiu Kwong. Chef Cheng Yiu Kwong, who just arrived this month, brings 30 years of culinary experience to create one of his favourites—BBQ Roasted Goose. The golden brown skin appears eye-catching and tastes as tempting as it looks. Dial 3823 2221, email reservation@shangpalace.com.vn or visit shangpalace.com.vn. First Floor, Norfolk Mansion, 17-19-21 Ly Tu Trong, District 1.

Gartenstadt’s Turkey TrioThroughout December, this holiday favourite can be cooked in three uniquely German styles. Enjoy the succulent flavour of turkey and pork sausages, turkey escalope, or a tra-ditional braised turkey leg. Each dish comes with mashed pumpkin and vegetables. Bring your Windsor VIP card to receive a 10% discount. Open daily from 10.30 am until midnight. Reach the venue at 3822 3623 or

email gartenstadt@vtpinvestment.com. 34 Dong Khoi, District 1.

Buffet Business Lunch at Chit Chat at the Café Monday through Saturday from 11.30 am until 2.30 pm, indulge in Chit Chat’s Buffet Business Lunch. The price—270,000 VND++ per person with free flow soft drinks, beer and house wine—also includes a selection of pasta, maki and dim sum on Tuesday, Thurs-day and Saturday. Monday, Wednesday and Friday feature Hai Nam chicken rice and other delicacies. Call 3839 7777 ext 8000/8333 or email dine@hcm.equatorial.com. 242 Tran Binh Trong, District 5.

Au Manoir De Khai RestaurantAu Manoir De Khai Restaurant has a special package, ‘White Christmas’, at US $135 per person in the days leading up to Christmas. Enjoy characteristic French cuisine such as oysters, caviar, North American lobster, goose, Kobe beef, truffles and a Santa Claus cake covered in gold leaf, and champagne. Call 3930 3394. 251 Dien Bien Phu, District 3.

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All the coffee is roasted on the premises and there are comfortable couches and travellers aplenty making it a chilled place to hang out.

Cafe TerraceSaigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1This funky café is frequented by trendy types attracted by the leather lounges, outdoor terrace and 52 non-alcoholic fruit concotions.

Cay Da Cafe Ground floor, Moevenpick Hotel Saigon253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 9222 ext. 118www.moevenpick-saigon.comStocks the Moevenpick’s chef’s most delicious cakes, pastries, ice cream and sandwiches.

Coffee Bean & Tea leaf12-14 Thai Van Lung, D194 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D3Nowzone, 235 Nguyen Van Cu, D5Metropolitan Bldng, 235 Dong Khoi, D1International café chain with a wide variety of coffees and teas, as well as light snacks and food. Also sells fresh-roasted coffee beans and tins of whole leaf tea.

Gloria Jean's CoffeeGrand View, Phu My Hung, D7Tel: 5412 228Gloria Jean's provides the highest quality gourmet coffee and teas.Stocks more than 30 flavours of coffees and tea as well as a selectionof gift items.

Jubarcalypse35 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 7930Jubarcalypse has an interesting under-ground design. Playing jazz music, it’s the perfect place to re-energize with a refreshing selection of juices and snacks.

loaves and fishes5 Street 11, Thao Dien, D2Tel: 3547 0577Coffee house on a side street near Riverside Apartments serves up drinks and serves the full line of Western-style baked goods from Harvest Baking.

Mojo88 Dong Khoi, D1www.sheratonsaigon.comA top-end cafe with an attractive interior, outdoor terrace at street level and com-fortable lounges upstairs. Good business coffee or lunch venue.

Paris Deli35 Dong Khoi, D1Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1Tel: 3821 6127Grand View Building, Nguyen Duc Canh, Phu My Hung, D7 Tel: 412 2179Petite boulangerie/cafe decked out with French-style furnishings. Offering tasty French and international dishes with a range of lunchtime specials at reason-able prices.

That’s CaféRivergarden, 170 Nguyen Van Huong, D2The Crescent, 103 Ton Dat Tien, Phu My Hung, D7Hailing from the U.S., That’s Café is a new Khai Silk initiative. Claiming to provide the best coffee in town in a comfortable and friendly atmosphere, it’s a great place to hold a business meeting or catch up with friends.

Une Journee a Paris234 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3827 772315B Ngo Quang Huy, An Phu, D2Tel: 0128 608 9551A Parisian-style café that serve French cuisine, coffee and pastries like fondant chocolat, baba au rhum and tropezienne.

Free Wi-Fi. Open Monday to Saturday from 7 am to 7 pm.

X Cafe58 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3914 2142Bright, spacious foreign-run cafe decorated in the style of an Alpine chalet. Popular with local makers and shakers, has a great open-plan upstairs area and two outdoor terraces. Regular live music and homemade ice cream. Nguyen Trai location includes children’s playground. Catering available.

Zenta41 Mac Dinh Chi, D3A large, extravagant, kitsch cafe with several rooms resembling airport depar-ture lounges. Customers, though, tend to gravitate to the more attractive outdoor terrace with its pond and waterfall-style water features.

CHINESEDragon Court11-13 Lam Son Square, D1Tel: 3827 2566Open until 2am, this vast, no-frills eatery gets packed with hungry locals who savour generous portions of tasty dim sum. All the Chinese staples are here. Expect a good feed for under 100,000 VND per person.

Dynasty RestaurantNew World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, D1Tel: 3822 8888Fine Chinese dining in an opulent restau-rant reminiscent of the Middle Kingdom’s imperial days. Delicacies clock in at 500,000 VND, but most dishes fall between 80,000 to 180,000 VND.

Huy long Vien99 Nguyen Du, D1 Tel: 3823 7799www.huylongvien.comA magnificent Chinese restaurant with

a leafy slate-tiled courtyard, Chinese lanterns and a labyrinth of water works. Lunchtime dim sum is 120,000 VND, while the a la carte menu runs higher with Chinese specialties such as Peking duck for 400,000 VND.

KabinRenaissance Riverside Hotel, 8-15 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3822 0033Elegant dining space with beautiful decor and great views over the river offers extensive lunch and dinner menus featur-ing authentic gourmet Cantonese and Szechuan dishes and an assortment of dim sum at lunchtime.

li BaiSheraton Hotel, 88 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 2828Imperial-styled restaurant named after a famous Chinese poet. Excellent lunch time dim sum buffet for USD $17.00. Nightly à la carte menu with dishes going from 100,000 VND.

lotus Court1st floor, Moevenpick Hotel Saigon253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 9222 ext. 168www.moevenpick-saigon.comDim Sum and exciting Cantonese cuisine in a unique and elegant setting.

Ming Dynasty 23 Nguyen Khac Vien, Phu My Hung Tel: 5411 5555Decorated in Ming Dynasty-style; offers 100 dim sum varieties and 300 dishes prepared by a chef from Hong Kong. The restaurant’s Imperial Buffet costs USD $39 per person and includes free flow of wine.

Ngan Dinh Chinese RestaurantWindsor Plaza Hotel, 18 An Duong Vuong, D5 Tel: 3833 6688

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Beautiful wood paneling, colourful hang-ing lanterns and a sparkling mineral gal-lery make for a relaxing dining experience at the Windsor. Feast on roasted Pi Pa duck, giant grouper and steamed king prawns. Be sure to check out monthly specials. Ocean Palace2 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3911 8822Both traditional and trendy Chinese dishes are prepared by chef from Hong Kong and served in an opulent 280-seat dining room in this restaurant opposite the zoo. Intimate private rooms and larger party rooms available for booking.

Shang Palace RestaurantNorfolk Mansion, 17-19-21 Ly Tu Trong, D1 Tel: 3823 2221www.shangpalace.com.vnAn upscale Chinese restaurant with a spacious and welcoming atmosphere. The menu boasts a wide range of Hong Kong Cantonese cuisine, including both dim sum, a la carte and set menus, regu-larly changed by the creative chefs.

Thao li RestaurantGrand View C, Nguyen Duc Canh, Phu My Hung Tel: 5412 5999Daily Dim Sum Buffet costs USD $9.90 per person, starting from 11 am. The daily A La Carte Dinner Buffet costs $14.90 per person; includes more than 55 dishes.

Truyen Ky261B Dao Duy Tu, D10Small homestyle Chinese restaurant specializing in the salty Hakka cuisine of southeastern China, including tofu and chilis stuffed with fish paste.

Yu ChuInterContinental Asiana Saigon, corner of Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3520 9099

dine@icasianasaigon.com Specializing in authentic Cantonese and Peking cuisine. Award-winning chef prepares dishes including handmade noodles, dim sum and wok-fried items. Wide selection of live seafood. Five interactive kitchens.

DESSERT PARLOURSBo Gia (The Godfather)29 Ngo Duc Ke, D120 Ho Huan Nghiep, D1299 Nguyen Van Troi, Tan Binh Does brisk lunchtime trade with its selec-tion of more than 25 ice cream favours and Vietnamese noodle and rice dishes.

Ciao Cafe40 Ngo Duc Ke, D1With a number of branches downtown (21 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai and 26 Tran Cao Van, among others), this popular cafe offers a mixture of food, drinks and books. Boasts about 20 ice cream specials and serves crepes, sodas and shakes.

fanny ice Cream29-31 Ton That Thiep, D1 Tel: 3821 1633Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1www.fanny.com.vnTranquil open-terraced heaven for ice-cream lovers. Menu contains fresh fruit, ice cream, sherbets and sorbets (coconut, caramel and Bailey’s ice-cream and mango sorbet are standouts). All you can eat first Friday of the month.

Ministry of Food30 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 3827 7898Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1Two-floor dessert house specializing in Italian and Japanese treats serving a wide array of ice cream flavours using milk from Japan’s dairy capital. Also serves sandwiches and bento boxes.

street gourmet

Banh da lon

Although banh da lon translates to “pigskin pie,” this gelatinous dessert looks more like key lime pie than anything resembling pork. The base ingredients are rice flour, sugar and coconut, but the yellow and green hues come courtesy of lentil and an indigenous green leaf. Each layer is

prepared separately and then formed into a sweet yet mild-tasting delight. Banh da lon hails from southern Vietnam and can be found at local bakeries and on roving vendor carts all day long. On the street, it is sold as a pie that costs between 3,000 and 15,000 VND, depending on the size.

Cocktail Bar • Restaurant • Terrace @95 Hai Ba Trung

Seasons Greetings! It’s that time of year again, good food, good wine, good times. We will be serving a special Christmas dinner and throwing a New Years party you won’t forget. Make your reservations now.

Follow us on @blanchysTash for more information.

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New Zealand Natural 3rd Floor, Parkson Department Store 39-45 Le Thanh Ton, D14th Floor, Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan 1st Floor, Saigon Superbowl, 843 Truong Son, Tan Binhwww.newzealandnatural.comServes flavours ranging from chocolate ecstasy, fruits of the forest and boysen-berry dream by the scoop.

FRENCHagapéstroRiver Garden, 170 Nguyen Van Huong, Thao Dien, D2Tel: 0903 669 252Serves fine French cuisine originat-ing from all over France—particularly seafood and dishes prepared from foie gras.

annamite french Restaurant21 Tu Xuong, Ward 7 D3Tel: 6277 8332annamite-restaurant.comThe new VN restaurant area of D3 opens a classic French dinning option, led by ex Caprice chef. Snug atmo-sphere with a classic touch . French favourites such as escargot in garlic butter, Pan fried goose froie gras, duck in port wine, poached river sole with saf-fron sauce and classic flambé crepes.

au Manoir de Khai251 Dien Bien Phu, Q3 Tel: 3930 3394This top-end contemporary French res-taurant is set in a picturesque colonial villa with a lush courtyard and a lavish interior. Full of private rooms and opulent lounge areas, this unique eatery is the brainchild of Vietnamese fashion guru Hoang Khai of Khai Silk fame. Offers up dishes such as lobster consomme, pan-fried duck liver, salmon medallions with Moet and escalope de foie gras.

la fourchette9 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 Tel: 3829 8143Rustic downtown restaurant, with a good longstanding reputation for serving good traditional French fare at reasonable prices. Open 12 am to 2 pm and from 7 pm to 10 pm.

la Nicoise42 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 Tel: 3822 8613Small French-style bistro, with pretty mosaic tiled bar and tables. Offers a good range of teas, coffees and espresso-based drinks. Lunch menu changes daily, but always encompasses traditional French food. Open until 10 pm.

le Jardin31 Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3825 8465This delightful restaurant in a pictur-esque garden setting is open for lunch and dinner and serves excellent French food at reasonable prices. Main courses cost about 60,000 VND and a carafe of house wine costs 50,000 VND.

l’en Tête139 Nguyen Thai Binh, D1 Tel: 3821 4049, 0903 188 091This stylish bistro and gallery serves up a large selection of French fare repre-senting an excellent selection of classic French fish and meat dishes, as well as international cuisine. Live music on Mondays, Wednesdays and Saturdays starting at 8 pm.

MM Bistro23 Thao Dien, An PhuTel: 3744 6478A French-style bistro that serves up design-your-own antipasto platters, tartines, healthy juices, desserts and more. Also sells homemade bread, the most popular being the signature wholemeal.

imbibe

The holidays are a great time to spend with family and friends and express gratitude for one year ending and a new one beginning. Regardless of your budget, sparkling wines will satisfy and have you celebrating in style.

The most famous bubbly is Champagne, named after a region in Northern France. This is a legally protected, defined area, so only wine produced there can be called ‘Cham-pagne.’ Chardonnay and Pinot Noir grapes are used and com-mon descriptives are yeasty, dry, crisp and toasty. There are over 12,500 different brands available worldwide. In Vietnam, try entry level, medium and premium types to determine what you like the best. Gener-ally speaking you will spend the most on Champagne.

Italy has a long history of making excellent wines. Prosec-co, produced in the Northern Italian region of Veneto, is a popular option. Prosecco (formerly known as Glera) is the name of the white grape that produces a top-notch sparkling white with a fruity aroma and fine bubbles. Great producers include Villa Sandi, Bisol and Santa Margherita and the finest varieties come from the Valdob-biadene district of Veneto.

This wine is made in the ‘charmat’ method—second fermentation in a steel tank or vat—as opposed to ‘methodo champenoise’ or ‘tradionale’ in which the effervescence is produced in the same bottle in which it is sold. In the Trentino-Alto Adige region you will find fine, dry sparkling wine that rivals the best Champagnes in the world. Ferrari from Trentino

(no relation to the automobile company) is a great producer. What separates Ferrari from Champagne is the place of origin and the price. High qual-ity Franciacorta from North-west Italy is made in the same manner.

Cava, a popular sparkling wine from Spain, is also produced in the traditional method in the Penedes region. Its history dates back to 1851 when Champagne grapes grown in Catalonia were used. Today Cava is mostly a blend of Chardonnay with traditional Spanish varietals such as Ma-cabeo, Parellada and Xarel-lo. Two dominant Cava producers are Codorniu and Freixenet.

In the US, it’s best to stick with sparkling wines made from the traditional method—second fermentation in the bottle. The best come from California’s Napa Valley, Sonoma and Men-docino Counties, and Wash-ington State. Roederer Estate, Gloria Ferrer and Domaine Chandon are California’s finest and Domaine Ste Michelle is the Washington State leader.

Do you ever get confused about wine labelling? What is the difference between Brut, Ex-tra Dry and Extra Brut? Which ones are sweet or dry? Ask me for my free guide, plus food pairing for sparkling wines. Dur-ing the holiday season, please enjoy responsibly. Cheers!

Darryl Bethea is Group Sales Manager for Fine Wines of the World (09 3378 5005) and is a Certified Sommelier from the Court of the Master Som-meliers. Contact Darryl at 09 3378 5005 or email Darryl@finewineasia.com.

Celebrating with the Bubbly!By Darryl Bethea

street gourmet

A bowl of canh bun is a feast for the eyes and the stomach. Mild yet flavour-ful, this hearty soup con-tains tofu, steamed morn-ing glory, freshwater crab and congealed pork blood (last ingredient optional). At first glance you might think there are sweet

potatoes in canh bun, but those bright orange bits are actually chunks of tofu died by cashews. Canh bun is eaten for breakfast, lunch and dinner and can be found at both street stalls and local restau-rants. A bowl will run you about 10,000 VND.

Canh bun

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INDIANGanesh15 - B4 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3822 3017Casual dining with takeaway available, Ganesh serves up both North and South Indian culinary traditions. Very reasonably priced, with vegetarian curries from 40,000 VND and chicken dishes from 64,000 VND.

Saigon indian73 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 3824 5671Popular venue with an enormous menu. Serves both southern and northern Indian dishes like tandoori, biryani, dosa and idly snacks, plus a wide range of vegetarian dishes. Offers a set lunch menu. Cater service is available.

Tandoor74/6 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3930 4839www.tandoorvietnam.comPart of a chain of restaurants covering Hanoi and Saigon, Tandoor features a large selection of standard northern Indian dishes, including a good vegetar-ian selection. Excellent cheap set lunches and reasonable prices all around. Will organize catering for events.

INTERNATIONALal fresco’s21 Mac Dinh Chi D1 Tel: 3823 842727 Dong Du, D1 Tel: 3822 7317D1-23 My Toan 3, D7 Tel: 5410 1093400 Nguyen Trai, D5 Tel: 3838 3840www.alfrescosgroup.comTheme restaurant boasting a range of Tex-Mex, Italian and Australian-style BBQ dishes. Huge portions and tasty Austra-lian ribs coupled with a good atmosphere and helpful staff. Good lunch menu.

amigo Grill55 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3824 1248Outstanding steaks made with Australian, U.S. and Argentine beef, served in a cosy, family-friendly environment with large tables and banquette seating. Dishes like leg of lamb and seafood are also on the menu. Open 11 am to 11 pm.

au Parc23 Han Thuyen, D1 Tel: 3829 2772Lavishly decorated brasserie borrowing from Moroccan and French styles and popular during lunchtime with expats. Specializes in Middle Eastern and North African food. The salad menu is a favou-rite, and a great range of lush smoothies and juices are on offer.

Black Cat13 Phan Van Dat, D1 Tel: 3829 2055628 An Binh, An Phu, D2 Tel: 3898 9837Tiny but popular District 1 restaurant serving up an excellent selection of West-ern and Vietnamese fare and an extensive range of sandwiches and burgers. The District 2 location also features a slate of sushi and Mexican food, and the District 7 outpost has a full barbecue menu.

BoatHouse40 Lily Road, APSC Compound,36 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 6790Riverside restaurant with umbrella-shad-ed tables spread across outdoor deck and small indoor dining room. Serves remarkably fresh and inspired dishes made with choice local and imported ingredients—favourites include the sirloin burger and pan-fried fish and chips.

BoomarangCresent Residence 2-3-4, No. 107 Ton Dat Tien, PMH, D7 Tel: 3744 6790Riverside restaurant with umbrella-shad-ed tables spread across outdoor deck and small indoor dining room. Serves remarkably fresh and inspired dishes made with choice local and imported ingredients—favourites include the sirloin burger and pan-fried fish and chips.

Byblos Restaurant & Shisha lounge11 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 Tel: 3825 7781www.byblos.com.vnDowntown restaurant serves a menu of Lebanese starters, salads and mains served in a casual dining room. Catering available. Events and weekly belly dance show hosted.

Cafe evita230 Nguyen Van Huong, An Phu, D2Tel: 3512 3888Academic-themed menu at this outlet near the British International School includes meals like The Principal, a triple-decker club with fries and salad and burgers that range from First to Fourth Grade. Also has a wood-fired pizza oven.

Cafe SaigonGround floor, Moevenpick Hotel Saigon253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 9222 ext. 234www.moevenpick-saigon.comAn international buffet with unique food concepts that is perfect for gathering family and friends.

Cham Charm3 Phan Van Chuong, Phu My HungTel: 5410 9999The highlight of this upscale, beautifully decorated Asian restaurant is a special seafood buffet that includes Portuguese oysters, Alaskan crab, lobsters, sushi, sashimi, Japanese-style seafood, Langoustine prawns, American Angus beef and much more. Errazuriz wines are also included in the buffet. Part of the Khai Silk chain.

el Gaucho5D Nguyen Sieu, D1 Tel: 3825 1879Cresent Residence 1_12, No. 103 Ton Dat Tien, PMH, D7A classic Argentine steakhouse where beef is the main attraction. There is still plenty of other options on the menu, in addition to an extensive wine list. Open from 4pm until late every day.

The Deck38 Nguyen U Di, D2 Tel: 3744 6632Serves upmarket takes on regional specialties made with fresh local and imported products. Well-designed, minimalist dining space and bar on the river are a serious draw.

The elbow Room52 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3821 4327elbowroom52@yahoo.comAmerican-style bistro offering a wide range of appetisers, soups, salads, sandwiches, mains and desserts, plus an extensive wine menu. Open daily 7.30 am to 11 pm. Breakfast served all day.

Gartenstadt34 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3822 3623Opened in 1992, it’s the first venue in town to offer German food with speciali-ties such as pork knuckle and authentic German sausages prepared fresh each day. Also offers imported German draught beer.

Halal@Saigon31 Dong Du, D1 Tel: 3824 5823www.halalsaigon.comServing up a range of Vietnamese and Malaysian dishes prepared according to halal guidelines including ban xeo, pho and roti chennai and seafood favourites such as shrimp, squid and mussels.

Hideaway Cafe41/1 Pham Ngoc Thach, D3Tel: 3822 4222www.hideawaycafe-saigon.comStylishly decorated and relaxing restau-rant and cafe serving an eclectic range of tasty European-style food. Dine al fresco in the charming courtyard.

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Recipes provided by Ana Esteves

iNGReDieNTS225gr Butter425gr Dark Chocolate5 Egg Yolks5 Eggs (whole)250gr Sugar85gr Flour White Chocolate chopped in cubes

PRePaRaTiON1. In a bain marie, melt butter

and chocolate2. Incorporate flour to the

chocolate mixture3. In a separate bowl, mix

whole eggs and yolks with

sugar until creamy4. Temper the chocolate

mixture5. Butter and flour 6 cm alumi-

num moulds6. Pour the mixture ¾ of the

way7. Put a cube of white choco-

late in the middle on top of the chocolate mixture

8. Bake at 350 degrees for 12 minutes

9. Carefully, de-mould the souffle, sprinkle with icing sugar

10. Serve with any fruit coulis and vanilla ice cream

Chocolate SouffleServes 4

recipesHog's Breath02 Hai Trieu, D1 Tel: 3915 6006The popular Australian eatery's first foray into Vietnam. Centrally located on the ground floor of the Bitexc Financial tower. The legendary Prime Rib steaks are the centrpiece of the menu which also includes burgers, seafood and bar snacks.

Jaspa’s33 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3822 9926www.alfrescosgroup.comUnpretentious brasserie-style restaurant specializes in Australian-influenced international fusion cuisine. Full range of drinks including Australian and French wines and good cocktails. Hosts month-ly Spam Cham networking event.

Juice49 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 3829 6900Bright and stylish deli-style restaurant serving salads, sandwiches, quiches and meat pies with French fries and potato salad. Also has daily lunch and dinner menu. Excellent smoothies and juices, as well as novelty drinks like wheatgrass shooter and Cannonball cocktail.

Kita Coffee House39 Nguyen Hue, D1, Tel: 3821 5300Four-level restaurant serving a wide menu of mains, pastas, salads, sand-wiches, soups and appetizers for lunch and dinner, as well as a variety of coffee and fresh fruit juices. Includes a bright ground floor cafe, sophisticated Old World second floor bar and rooftop din-ing. Set dinner everyday from 5pm.

Market 39InterContinental Asiana SaigonGround Floor, Corner Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3520 9099dine@icasianasaigon.com Seven interactive live kitchens offering French, Vietnamese and Southeast Asian cuisines, including a bakery, French patisseries, pancakes, tossed salads, grilled steak, seafood, wok-fried items, noodles and pasta dishes.

Mekong Merchant23 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 4713Set in a courtyard, this rustic Australian-style brasserie has brought modern international cuisine to suburban An Phu. Popular for weekend brunches. Weekly specials and seafood flown in from Phu Quoc.

New York Steakhouse & Winery25-27 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D1 Tel: 3823 7373New-york@steakhouse.com.vn www.steakhouse.com.vn Chic dining venue designed in a classic New York City Art Deco. Open every day until late. Specializes in certified U.S. Black Angus steak, and features a fully stocked wine cellar. Guests are invited to bring their own wine on BYOB Mondays.

OrienticaHotel Equatorial, 242 Tran Binh Trong, D5 Tel: 3839 7777www.equatorial.com/hcmTop-end seafood and grill restaurant boasting modern decor. Good service and excellent food presentation make this a pleasant alternative to the down-town scene.

Pacharan Tapas and Bodega97 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3825 6024This tapas restaurant and bar serves up superb Spanish fare crafted from authentic imported ingredients. The exclusively Spanish wine list is extensive and Sangria is half price during happy hour from 5 pm to 7 pm and all day Wednesday.

The Refinery74/7C Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3823 0509Authentic bistro with cane furniture out-

side, informal indoor restaurant section and a bar area. Cuisine is light, modern European. The menu spans a price range to suit most budgets.

ReflectionsCaravelle Hotel, 19 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3823 4999Contemporary fine dining that combines Asian flavors with classic Mediterranean cuisine in an ambiance of understated elegance and European style. Special culinary events include guest chefs from Michelin-star establishments around the world. Private rooms are available.

Riverside CafeRenaissance Riverside, 8-15 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3822 0033International venue opening onto the bustling river sidewalk, open for break-fast, lunch and dinner, and particularly noted for its sumptuous buffet selection which combines Asian, Western and Vietnamese cuisine.

Signature RestaurantLevel 23, Sheraton Hotel, 88 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 2828Fine dining with panoramic views over central HCM City. Food is stunningly presented, top-end European cuisine with Asian influences cooked by German chef Andreas Schimanski. A la carte or five-course set menu available.

Skewers9A Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3822 4798www.skewers-restaurant.comRustic Mediterranean restaurant where subtle colours and exposed brickwork combine with jazzy tunes. Serves tabou-leh, falafel, couscous and kebab. Highly rated for its grilled meats, bread and dip combos, soups and pastas.

Square OnePark Hyatt Saigon, 2 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3520 2359Specializing in high-end Western and Vietnamese cuisine, Square One serves charcoal-grilled meats and seafood, as well as steamed and wok-cooked Vietnamese fare.

VillafB79 Suong Nguyet Anh, D1 Tel: 3823 3822www.villafb.comRefurbished villa with a spacious design-led indoor dining room and an elegant enclosed courtyard. Serves bun noodle dishes for breakfast and lunch before switching to a menu of Eastern and Western fine dining for dinner.

Warda71/7 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 3823 3822Chic, middle-eastern themed eatery swathed in oranges and reds serving Lebanese cuisine prepared by Damas-can chef, Nouman. Mezze and tapas are the main draw, but you can also puff on hookas post-meal.

Xu Saigon71-75 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3824 8468www.xusaigon.comInspired restaurant with an F&B director with a passion for mixing Vietnamese cooking with flavours and styles from around the world. Sleek but sparsely designed, the restaurant serves nouveau takes on Vietnamese cuisine.

ITALIANBaby Spoon Cafe & Restaurant Head Office: 47 Phan Chu Trinh, D1Tel: 3822 3356 Fax: 3822 3357SB 2-1 Parkview, Phu My Hung, D7Tel: 5412 0145Level 3, Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1While Baby Spoon is primarily Italian, a vast selection of international cuisine is served in this Japanese-inspired restaurant.

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BasilicoInterContinental Asiana Saigon, Ground Floor, Corner Nguyen Du andHai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3520 9099dine@icasianasaigon.com Contemporary and casual trattoria-style restaurant specializing in authentic Italian dishes and homemade desserts. Wood-fired pizza oven and a wide selection of Italian wines.

Casa italia86 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 3824 4286 www.casaitalia.com.vnServes home-style Italian cooking includ-ing pasta and pizza as well as a selection of steak and seafood dishes. Open daily 10 am until late.

Centro Caffe & Ristorante11-13 Lam Son Square, D1 31 Ngo Duc Ke, D16 Thai Van Lung, D1This is home of Illy coffee in Vietnam. Of-fers modern and traditional Italian cuisine in three central locations with lunchtime set menus and regular wine tasting evenings. Good spot for business coffee meetings.

Good Morning Vietnam197 De Tham, D1 Tel: 3837 1894Popular authentic Italian restaurant with additional outlets around the country. Specializes in thin-crust pizza, pasta and a range of Italian dishes. Good selection of Italian wines.

la Braceria11 Le Thanh Ton, D1Tel: 3824 7446www.labraceria.com.vnA Mediterranean-style grill house that serves imported prime steaks, lamb, duck and fresh seafood as well as pasta and pizza. Great selection of old and new world wines.

la Hostaria17B Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3823 1080Rustic eatery specializing in top-end traditional cuisine from various regions in Italy. Main courses from 130,000 VND with daily specials on offer. Serves excel-lent pizza.

OperaGround floor Park Hyatt Hotel, 2 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3824 1234Slick, contemporary eatery with exposed brick and glass. The space revolves around an island kitchen from which chefs produce gourmet Italian fare. Internationally trained chefs work with the freshest and finest ingredients around to produce some superb dishes.

Pendolasco 87 Nguyen Hue, D1, Tel: 3821 8181One of the city’s oldest Western restau-rants, Pendolaso serves a wide range if

Italian favourites, as well as remarkably authentic crispy, thin-crust pizza.

Pepperoni’s111 Bui Vien, D1 Tel: 3920 4989 Attractive pizza and pasta restaurant from the same chain as Al Fresco’s. Good cheap buffet lunches on weekdays and all-round large and tasty portions.

Pomodoro79 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3823 8998 A family-oriented Italian restaurant serving traditional fare are surprisingly reasonable prices. Offers daily lunchtime specials and has an extensive wine list.

Sarpino’s125 Ho Tung Mau, D1 Tel: 3821 7788Tasty American-style pan pizza in a pleas-ant and fresh Italian-themed environment. Four sizes available, from personal to extra large, with a large range of top-pings. Also serves pasta, soups, wings and salads.

Scoozi6 Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3823 5795Italian pizza restaurant affiliated with Centro Caffe serving tasty gourmet pizzas prepared in a wood-fired oven. The deli-cious creations restore one’s faith in HCM City’s ability to turn out a quality pie.

JAPANESEChiisana HashiRiver Garden, 170 Nguyen Van Huong, Thao Dien, D2Tel: 6683 5308 0903 669 252Serves authentic Japanese cuisuine in-cluding sashimi, sushi, tempura, sukiyaki and shabu shabu.

Dragon Hot Pot122-124 Ho Tung Mau, D1Tel: 3915 1001info@dragonhotpot.vnJapanese hot pot restaurant serving motsu nabe, Japanese barbeque and lots of sake and shoju.

Kissho14 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3823 2223 Fax: 3823 3343kissho.wmcvietnam.comSaigon’s newest Japanese restaurant boasts a multi-concept cuisine set in a cutting edge interior. Specialties include teppanyaki, yakiniku, sushi and sashimi crafted by expert chefs. The freshest imported meats and seafood round out the menu, accompanied by an extensive selection of fine wines and Japanese spirits. Open 11.30 am to 2 pm and 5.30 pm to 10 pm.

ikiGround floor, Moevenpick Hotel Saigon253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan

A Holly, Jolly CCAD

++ Prices are in VND and subject to applicable VAT and service charge.

° Windsor VIPCard holders enjoy 10% discount.

Cafeù Central An Dong4th Fl., Windsor Plaza Hotel18 An Duong Vuong St., Dist. 5, HCMCTel: (84.8) 3.833.6688 - ext: 2221Fax: (84.8) 3.833.6888

Christmas Lunch24th and 25th December350.000++/person

Christmas Eve Dinnerwith Lucky Draw24th December680.000++/person

Christmas Day Dinner25th December 580.000++/person

New Year’s Eve Dinnerwith Lucky Draw31st December680.000++/person

New Year’s Day Dinner1st January580.000++/person

Bring your festive celebrations to Cafeù Central An Dongwith an expansive holiday buffet

and free flow of soft drinks and beer.

Quan Buitraditional Vietnamese dining

New Vietnamese restaurant opened near the corner of Hai Ba Trung & Tran Quang Khai street, district 1.Great food, traditional dishes, enticing ambience and fantastic value!Can also do groups (private room available), deliveries and on-site catering

8 Nguyen Van Nguyen, Tan Dinh Ward, District1, HCMCTel: 08 3602 2241 - Mobile: 084 1286 252 351Email: quanbui8nvn@yahoo.com

LOUISIANE BREWHOUSE

Beachside Nha TrangAsian & Western Cuisine

Swimming Pool & Private Beach

www.louisianebrewhouse.com.vn

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Tel: 3844 9222 ext. 127www.moevenpick-saigon.comA Japanese restaurant that turns the notion of the common hotel sushi eatery on its head thanks to an affordable menu and a fun atmosphere.

K Cafe74 A4 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3824 5355Small, cosy and cheery, this café is noteworthy for its cracking hand rolls. Salmon skin rolls are also a treat. The assorted sushi and sashimi, tasty and beautifully presented, costs around USD $8. Leave some room for homemade yoghurt.

MOf – Japanese Sweets & CoffeeLevel B3-17A, Vincom Centre, 70-72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 30 Le Loi, D1Refined Japanese café specializing in unique desserts and food. Focusing on use of organic products, this casual eatery has a comprehensive Japanese dining menu along with a wonderful selection of sweets and offers possibly the most divine and delectable gelato in HCM City.

NishimuraMövenpick Hotel Saigon, 253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 9222Exquisitely prepared sushi and sashimi from a globetrotting chef with three decades’ experience. A wide range of cooked dishes and monthly meal promo-tions are also available. Set lunches cost about USD $15.

Okinawa Yamaneko13/1 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3823 8433www.yamaneko-vn.comPart restaurant, part Japanese pub serv-ing up a variety of Okinawa favourites like sashimi with sea grapes, namakari and goya champuru plus sushi and soba.

The Sushi Bar2 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3823 80423A Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3911 8618This brightly lit Japanese-style restaurant serves over 40 varieties of sushi at rea-sonable prices. Sit at the sushi bar or in private rooms upstairs. Open until 11.30 pm, delivery available on request.

Tama-Gawa Thao Dien Village 195 Nguyen Van Huong D2 Tel: 08 37446857Anh Phu’s only Japanese restaurant, Tama-Gawa serves fresh sushi and other delicacies. Set lunches begin at 120,000 VND.

Zen 20 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3825 0782Located amid the sea of Japanese restaurants on Le Thanh Ton Street, Zen offers a wide range of Japanese dishes. The yakitori station grills up fantastic

steak and quail’s eggs, and the chilled udon noodles are also a standout.

KOREAN25 Si8A/6D Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3824 6921Traditional Yasik-style drinking restaurant. Winter and summer scene murals fill the walls of this dual level eatery. Large menu with favs like budae jjigae, a mix of chilli paste, Spam, hot dog and tofu, as well as super spicy duruchigi.

Hana8 Cao Ba Quat, D1 Tel: 3829 5588Japanese-Korean fusion in the heart of District 1. Contemporary decor with a pri-vate, yet open feel. Broad menu including cooked and raw fish and traditional hot pot with fish eggs, rice and vegetables.

Kim Bab Chun GookR4 42 Hung Phuoc 2, Phu My HungTel: 6296 9057Korean boonshik/snack food eatery serving up a wide variety of light but substantial foods including dumplings, rameyon and fish cakes.

Kumdo6A Pham Ngoc Thach, D3Tel: 3824 3253Korean beef barbecue served in small, welcoming dining rooms with barbecues built into tables. Large selection of raw meat specialties.

SOUTHEAST ASIANlac Thai71/2 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 3823 7506An elegant restaurant tucked in an alleyway and decorated with art-deco furniture. Authentic Thai cuisine prepared by two Thai chefs. Food is tasty but less spicy than you’d find in Thailand.

little ManilaS2-1 Hung Vuong 2, Phu My Hung, D7Tel: 5410 0812Small, no -frills eatery with outdoor and indoor seating located on a quiet street. Serves a range of dishes from the Philippines (pictured on menu for those unfamiliar) and draught San Miguel.

Thai express8A Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 6299 1338www.thaiexpress.vnModern restaurant with a massive menu of Thai specialties served in moderate proportions. The menu inludes chef’s recommendations and background on Thai cuisine. Warning: some dishes will test your tongue’s threshold.

VEGETARIANHoa Dang38 Huynh Khuong Ninh, D1

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Swish vegetarian restaurant on a quiet street that serves up nutritious dishes, including meatless versions of bun bo, pho and steamboat. Cosy bar serving non-alcoholic drinks, fruits and other sweets.

Saigon Vegan378/3 Vo Van Tan, D3 Tel: 3834 4473Rustic vegan restaurant with extensive menu of healthy food at moderate prices. Lots of tofu dishes and soya chicken/beef, soups, banh bao and more. Also has a kids menu.

Viet Chay339 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D3 Tel: 3526 5862Upscale vegetarian restaurant special-izes in fake meat dishes. The attractive dining room is suffused with natural light. Located within the walls of Vinh Nghiem Pagoda.

VIETNAMESEBanian TreeRiver Garden, 170 Nguyen Van Huong, Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 6683 5308 – 0903 669 252A fine dining Vietnamese restaurant that serves authentic cuisine.Offers a set lunch from US $8 per per-son, set dinner from $15 perperson. International breakfast is served from 6.30 am - 10.30 am.

Cha Ca Viet NamRiver Garden, 170 Nguyen Van Huong, Thao Dien, D2Tel: 6683 5308 0903 669 252Serves Hanoi specialty Cha Ca—turmer-ic grilled fish with noodles and dill.

Com Nieu19 Tu Xuong, D3 Tel: 3932 6288The house specialty, com nieu (smashed rice), comes with a shattered-crockery and flying-rice show at this well-known restaurant, prominently featured in Anthony Bourdain’s A Cook’s Tour. An extensive and tasty selection of southern Vietnamese cuisine rounds out the menu.

Hoa Tuc 74 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3825 1676This comfortable high-end restaurant serves traditional Vietnamese fare with a contemporary, classy twist. Expect to find your local favourites as you’ve never experienced them before. Beautifully plated, this is Vietnamese cuisine at its best.

lang Nuong Nam Bo285/C145 Cach Mang Thang Tam, D10Tel: 3862 2569Warehouse-sized quan well-regarded among locals serves everything from beef, chicken and fish to porcupine, weasel and field mouse. Great destina-tion for intrepid gastronomes. Has standard hot pot, rice and noodle dishes too.

Mandarine Restaurant11A Ngo Van Nam, D1 Tel: 3822 9783Fine dining Vietnamese-style courtesy of two sumptuously decorated colonial villas, an antique wooden stair and a menu spanning all regions of Vietnam. Traditional music performances are available for dinner.

Nam Phan34 Vo Van Tan, Q3 Tel: 3933 3636Well known at its previous corner location on Le Thanh Ton, Nam Phan continues to serve modern Asian cuisine including asparagus and crab meat soup, stewed bellyfish in pineapple and grilled duck breast in orange sauce. Set in a restored colonial villa, the interior is alive with reproductions of Cham-era bas-reliefs and is inspired by Euro-Zen.

Nghi Xuan5/9 Nguyen Sieu, D1 Tel: 3823 0699Located down an alley just past Hai Ba Trung, featuring an attractive open first-floor and upstairs dining rooms with dark wood furniture and carved woodwork. Serving Hue staples, crab and prawn spreads and an impressive array of wines and cocktails.

Ngon Restaurant160 Pasteur, D1The long lunchtime queues tell the story: good food at low prices. More a food court than a restaurant, this has be-come a major favourite for its airy decor combined with cheap and tasty noodle, rice and other standard dishes.

Papaya68 Pham Viet Chanh, Binh ThanhTel: 6258 1508www.chi-nghia.comHanoian classics mingle with new inter-pretations created by Chi Nghia, whose experience and dedication to clean, fresh ingredients set Papaya's menu apart. 10 am to 11 pm, 7 days.

Temple Club29 – 31 Ton That Thiep, D1

Tel: 3829 9244This high-end restaurant attached to an elegant lounge bar is a must-try for its art deco atmosphere as much as for its food. Mains go from around VND80,000 to VND150,000.

Wrap & Roll62 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3823 4030 SA1–1, My Khanh 1, Nguyen Van Linh, D7Attractive downtown venue that brings street-style food into air-conditioned and uncluttered comfort. Choose pre-

wrapped appetisers such as the cha gio (spring rolls) or roll-it-yourself mains with ingredients like pickled shrimps, beef on sugar cane, fish, grilled eel and pork.

nightlifeBARS & LOUNGESSee bar restaurant listings for more popular watering holes.

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amber Room59 Dong Du, D1 Tel: 6291 3686info@theamberoom.comA true London meets New York lounge, with chilled out tunes during the day and more funky vibes at night. A pleasant meeting place for drinks and a bite to eat.

Bar's bar47 Phan Chu Trinh, D1Tel: 3822 3352Small luxurious upstairs bar adjacent to Ben Thanh Market, offers a welcome retreat from the bustle of the city centre. Customers are served with relaxing music and a wide selection of cocktails, whiskies and Japanese Sake. Open nightly 6-late.

Cloud 92bis Cong Truong Quoc Te, D3, HCMC(Corner of Turtle Lake Roundabout & Tran Cao Van), Tel: 0948 445544Recently opened with beautiful déco, this rooftop lounge bar has its stunning views at night. Live DJ, great cocktails and des-serts. Open 6pm till late.

level 2323rd Floor, Sheraton Hotel88 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 2828One of the best views of the city from this upmarket terrace bar and lounge. Excellent cocktails don’t come cheap but the atmosphere is great with live music throughout the week and a live DJ every Monday.

The libraryInterContinental Asiana Saigon, corner of Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3520 9099dine@icasianasaigon.com Unwind with a glass of wine or a cup of tea. The Library provides a welcoming atmosphere for those in search of calm, comfort and personalized service.

Park loungePark Hyatt Hotel2 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3824 1234Elegant lounge bar, with classic songs played every night by international musi-cians. The salubrious surroundings are matched by the range of the drinks, with vintage wines from USD $6 to $10 per glass. Tiger is $4.50 a bottle.

Purple JadeInterContinental Asiana Saigon, corner of Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3520 9099Chic lounge blends the stylistic influences of contemporary design and opium dens. Hosts live music and serves special drinks, including Shaoxing and Maotai rice wines and an exclusive selection of luxury spirits.

BREWHOUSESalderbrau98 Nguyen Du, D1Small brewhouse decorated with antique brewing miscellanea, with an enclosed garden for outdoor swilling the small range of house brews and bottled imports. The kitchen dishes up sausages, German fare, and Vietnamese dishes.

Gammer Czech Beer107 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3824 8619www.biatuoitiepvn.comAttractive, multi-story Czech beer hall furnished with heavy wood and outfitted with a few flat screen TVs tuned in to sports. Dark and blonde beers are avail-able, as well as a full menu of Vietnamese food from mussels to rabbit.

lion Brewery11C Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3823 8514Microbrewery featuring traditional Ger-man brew technology and German fare like pork knuckle and wurst. Good spot to meet friends and enjoy a hearty meal and a whole lot of beer.

NIGHTCLUBSfuse Bar3A Ton Duc Thang, D1A popular bar that plays primarily hiphop music. Every Tuesday Fuse hosts a ladies night where women drink for free and two bottles of wine can be purchased for 2 million VND.

lush2 Ly Tu Trong, D1 Tel: 3824 2496A large and lavishly decorated bar and club popular on weekends. Good DJs playing the latest in beat-based music and the city’s beautiful people add to the sights and sounds. It’s on-par with Western clubs in both ambience and drinks prices.

at home

BAKERIESHarvest Baking30 Lam Son, Tan Binh Tel: 3547 0577harvestbaking@yahoo.comThis authentic bakery offers a range of specialty baked goods for deliv-ery. Offering bagels, scones, breads, desserts,cakes, tarts and more. Chocolate fudge cake and cinnamon rolls with cream cheese icing highly recommended.

Pat a Chou65 Hai Ba Trung, D125 Thao Dien, D2The home of the long and crusty baguette. Supplies many restaurants but also sells wholesale. The miniature patisseries such as crème brulée and cheesecake are worth a taste. Opens at 6.30 am.

Tous les Jours180 Hai Ba Trung, D3Part of the Korean bakery chain, Tous Le Jours stocks a superb range of freshly baked good from sugary treats like pain au chocolat to superior quality baguettes and loafs.

Voelker17 A7 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 7303 879939 Thao Dien, An Phu, D2Tel: 6296 0066Small bakery turns out sweet and salted pies and mousses in addition to ba-guettes and a range of Western sweets.

CATERINGau Parc Catering Services23 Han Thuyen, D1 Tel: 3829 2772Catering services available every day of the year for birthday cakes, dinner par-ties, wine tastings and corporate events. For a custom-made quotation e-mail auparc@hcm.vnn.vn or call Quynh on 0908 196261.

Saigon Catering 84 Xuan Thuy, D2 Tel: 6281 8388Provide services of catering, banquets, event planning, BBQ’s, daily deliveries and cocktail parties. For a custom-made quotation e-mail SaigonGG@gmail.com or call Huong on 0913 981128.

The Caterers46D Vuon Lai, Tan PhuTel: 3816 2901sales@thecaterersvietnam.com.vnwww.thecaterersvietnam.com.vnCatering company offering extensive services from location sourcing, décor designing and food catering. All functions can be catered for, from low-key bar-beques at home to full-blown weddings and parties.

Xu Catering71-75 Hai Ba Trung, D1

Christmas and New Year dining at Corso Steakhouse & Bar is also a dazzling experience as we present glorious 5-course menu of festive especially prepared by our experienced executive chef Nguyen Quoc Dung.

For starters, diners can choose Pan-Roasted Foie Gras with Salad, Red Capsicum Sauce and Baked Dark Chocolate, or King Prawns and Avocado Salad tossed with American Cocktail Sauce. Main dishes ranging from Traditional roasted Tom Turkey Breast… to Australian Beef Sirloin Steak with Ruby Wine Sauce… are favorite with those who have already enjoyed this mouthwatering spread.

romantic candle lights in a relaxing atmosphere will bring you a memorable experience on this special occasion.

Ground Floor - NORFOLK HOTEL, 117 Le Thanh Ton St, Dist. 1, HCMC, VietnamTel: (84-8) 3829 5368 Ext. 6614 - Fax: (84-8) 3829 3415

Email: corso@norfolkhotel.com.vn - Website: www.norfolkhotel.com.vnManaged by Norfolk Group

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Tel: 3824 8468www.xusaigon.comFrom the brains behind Xu Restaurant and Lounge comes this new catering service, promising the highest standards in service. Everything from the menu to the comprehensive bar service and the staff is tailor-made to your specifications.

COOKERY CLASSESCaravelle Hotel Cooking ClassesCaravelle Hotel, 19 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3823 4999Full-day Vietnamese cooking classes for groups of up to 20 people. The classes include a visit to the market with the sous chef.

Saigon Cooking Class by Hoa TucThe Courtyard, 74/7 Hai Ba Trung, D1Tel: 3825 8485i.briosca@saigoncookingclass.comcontact@saigoncookingclass.comCooking classes available from Tuesday to Sunday 10 am-1 pm/2 pm-5 pm. Stu-dents make an entire meal that includes traditional dishes like pho and cha gio, as well as more creative fare. Conducted by Vietnamese chef in English, Japanese or French on request.

Vietnam Cookery Centre362/8 Ung Van Khiem, Binh ThanhTel: 3512 1491Well-known Vietnamese cooking classes with half-day and more in-depth eight-day courses. Students work in a comfortable kitchen area with their own stove and workspace. Eight-day course costs USD $160.

DELIVERYDa Vinci’s Pizza001B Hoang Dieu, H1, D4Tel: 3943 4982Wide variety of brick oven pizza, cal-zones, spaghetti, subs and sandwiches. Pizzas come in medium and large sizes and pay homage to Italy with names like Verrochio, Pompeii and Assisi.

KiTCHeNTel: 0974 444 001kitchen.net.vnVisit the website and start an account to begin ordering fresh, homemade meals to your home. Options include beef lasagne, big chicken and mushroom pies and pork dijon as well as a variety of sau-sages and vegetarian dishes. Must order a minimum of three dishes at a time.

Pizza Hut Delivery (PHD)Tel: 3838 8388www.pizzahut.vnServing up pizza, pasta, chicken wings and much more. PHD guarantees 30-minute delivery or a free pizza at your next order (you must live within 2 km from a PHD store).

GROCERIESannam Gourmet Market16-18 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3822 933241A Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 2630SB2-1 My Khanh 4, Nguyen Duc Canh, D7 Tel: 5412 3263 / 64www.annam-gourmet.comBoutique grocer with wide selection of foreign foods; Annam-brand coffee, tea and spices; and household products. Wine and premium beer, full deli counter, produce, dairy-frozen and baked goods on second floor.

au Parc23 Han Thuyen, D1 Tel: 3829 2772A fine deli counter displaying a wide selection of cheeses, roasted vegetables, dips and some tempting sweets. The shelves along the side wall also show-case a solid selection of dried goods and some imported condiments.

Bellany Gelato & Sorbet Tel: 0122 774 3132

New Italian gelato and sorbet brand made entirely from local fresh fruit and adapted to contain minimal fat and sugar. Delivers to Thao Dien, An Phu residents from 4 pm to 9 pm in just 30 minutes. 125 ml, 450 ml and 2.8 litre packages are available and there are 15 flavours to choose from.

Classic fine foods17 Street 12, D2, Tel: 3740 7105www.classicfinefoods.comLuxury food primarily imports for whole-sale, but also takes orders for its range of dry goods, cheese, meat, poultry and seafood from private clients.

Gastro Home Delicatessen 100 Xuan Thuy, Thao Dien, D2Tel: 6281 9830Deli filled with fresh French-inspired delights ranging from salads to fish and vegetarian, meat and poultry dishes. Open 7 days from 9.30 am to 9 pm.

Kim Hai Butchery73 Le Thi Hong Gam, D1 Tel: 3821 6057 or 3914 4376Excellent chilled imported beef, lamb, veal and other meats sold at reasonable prices.

le Cochon D’Or32 Dong Du, D1 Tel: 3829 3856French-style charcuterie selling quality cold cuts, smoked sausage and a range of cheeses at very reasonable prices.

MetroAn Phu, D2 Tel: 3740 6677www.metro.com.vnWarehouse wholesaler located just off the Hanoi Highway in D2 between the Saigon Bridge and the tollbooths. Sells bulk food, fresh fruit and vegetables and meat, as well as paper products, cleaning supplies, housewares--basically everything.

Organik11A Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 090 273 3841www.organikvn.comOnline grocer based out of Dalat sell-ing a range of organic vegetables and groceries, as well as imported all-natural products such as cereal, soymilk and tea. Operates a retail shop in An Phu.

Phuong Ha58 Ham Nghi, D1 Tel: 3914 1318A mini-supermarket that sells an extensive assortment of imported pack-aged food, cheese, meat, fresh fruit, vegetables and fine wines.

Veggy’s29A Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3823 8526Sky Garden Pham Van Nghi, Bac Khu Pho, D7Riverside Apartments 53 Vo Truong Toan, Thao Dien, D2Popular expat market with a huge walk-in fridge area stocked with fresh fruit and vegetables, dairy products and a range of meats. Imported canned and dried foods, wines, beers, soft drinks, spirits and snacks also available.

LIQUOR & WINEThe Warehouse 178 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3825 8826924 Tran Hung Dao, D5 Tel: 6261 1525www.warehouse-asia.comOne of the city’s premier wine distribu-tors, The Warehouse is an aptly named, stylish wine store that stocks a full range of both New and Old World wines, sparkling wines, Champagne, spirits, imported beers and accessories.

ViNe Cellar Door41 Hai Ba Trung, D1Tel: 3822 2284A popular wine stockist with a very wide selection of labels from around the world for those who are serious about their vino. A range of fine cigars also available.

counsel corner

Freedom from Depression (Part Three: Connection)By Briar Jacques

We all have a fundamental need to feel connected to others—to feel we belong, can contribute and are valued. Exclusion, isola-tion and social awkwardness all contribute to depression. Research shows that feelings associated with social losses and rejections actually operate through brain mechanisms that overlap those of physical pain. Therefore, a vital depression fighting strategy is creating op-portunities to feel understood, cared for and respected. We all need to be considered capable, talented and desirable by loved ones, friends, colleagues and peers. When we believe this is how others see us we become resilient and relaxed—we feel the world as essentially a safe place. This attitude enables us to work with others to build supportive relationships. We then get to see further evidence that we are valued by others. When we cut ourselves off socially not only do we minimise opportunities for this perception of our value, we also increase the likelihood of developing and sustaining unchallenged self-critical thoughts. Self-criticism is highly linked to depression.

Friendship systems in an expatriate community are con-stantly in flux. Grief and loss are common themes when friends relocate or repatriate. A sense of ‘why bother’ often arises. It becomes a choice to ‘invest’ in a potential new friend—or not. This attitude can become a trap. If we are constantly limiting our friendship choices based on

fears of loss or wasted energy, little by little we edge our way towards emotional isolation.

It is important to realise this tendency and purposefully reject what it is based on—evaluation of one thing as ideal and another as worthless. For example, it is wonderful to live nearby a close friend, have time to create shared memories and help each other through hard times. This is, in a way, ideal. It doesn’t mean, however, that friendships can’t take other shapes and be just as fulfilling in other ways.

Letting go of constant evaluation can mean that when a friend leaves and contact becomes different the friend-ship can still be experienced as nurturing and supportive. Limiting our number of intimate connections because they can’t take an ideal shape closes us down to new, potentially life changing friendships. When we strive to be brave —when we invest in and pursue a friendship regardless of where it might ‘go’—we send strong messages to ourselves that we are worthy of being valued and that authenticity and joy in the moment is more important to us than self-protection for an imagined future. This mindset will serve us well as we work to free ourselves from depression

Briar Jacques is a trained Aus-tralian counsellor who deals with issues like expat adjustment, depression, anxiety and drug abuse. Call 0122 480 8792.

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CLASSESangelsBrush by VinTel: 0983377710Shyevin@mac.comOil painting course gives learners the opportunity to work from the different objects; explore different mediums, materials and techniques; and interpret line, tone and colour. Instructor works with students on individual basis.

Helen Kling Oil Painting189/C1 Nguyen Van Huong, Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 0903 955 780hk.painter@gmail.com/helenkling@yahoo.comwww.helenkling.com Helene is a French painter who teaches beginners (children and adults) various techniques and the art of working with different mediums. She is also a fan-tastic tool for advanced artists who are looking to increase their creativity. Both day and night courses are available. Helene has a permanent exhibition at FLOW, located 88 Ho Tung Mau, D1.

Printmaking alphagallery@bluemail.ch Classes are held at Alpha Gallery taught by the gallery owner Bernadette Gruber, who offers the chance to learn mono-type, intaglio and etching techniques.

CINEMASBobby Brewer’s Movie lounge45 Bui Vien, D1 Tel: 3610 222086 Pham Ngoc Thachinfo@bobbybrewers.comPopular top-floor home cinema show-ing movies five times a day on a large screen. Email for the latest schedule.

Cinebox 212 Ly Chinh Thang, D3 Tel: 3935 0610240 3 Thang 2, D10 Tel: 3862 2425Cinebox cinemas show both original language films with Vietnamese subtitles and the dubbed versions.

future Shortsfutureshortsvietnam@gmail.comwww.futureshorts.com/vnVietnam branch of the international network screens foreign and local short films around town. Events often incorpo-rate other media and elements, including live music, performances, installations and discussion. Submissions accepted.

Galaxy Cinema116 Nguyen Du, D1 Tel: 3822 8533230 Nguyen Trai, D1 Tel: 3920 6688www.galaxycine.vnLarge, modern cinema that shows the latest foreign releases in English (with Vietnamese subtitles).

iDeCaf31 Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3829 5451French cultural centre and cinema theatre. Showcases French movies with English and Vietnamese subtitles. Also hosts movies and documentaries from a number of overseas film festivals.

lotte CinemaDiamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1Tel: 3822 7897LotteMart, 469 Nguyen Huu Tho, D7

culture

listingsTel: 3775 2520www.lottecinemavn.comModern cinema with four-way sound system. D7 location houses luxury theatre Charlotte with 32 seats and eight sofas.

me phimHCM City-based film initiative that provides support to local filmmakers and hosts regular film screenings/discus-sions. Email dduukk@gmail.com for information or join the Facebook group.

MegastarHung Vuong Plaza, 126 Hung Vuong, D5 Tel: 08 2222 0388CT Plaza, 60A Truong Son, Tan Binh Tel: 6297 1981www.megastarmedia.netState-of-the-art cinema complex screen-ing the lastest blockbusters with plush, reclining seats. All movies shown in origi-nal language with Vietnamese subtitles.

GALLERIES a little blah blahOUT-2 STUDIO, L6 FAFILM Annex 6 Thai Van Lung, D1albbsaigon-2010.blogspot.comOperates as an engine for contemporary art by organizing projects, exhibitions, screenings and talks. Runs one major art project each year and a reading room with more than 1,000 texts on art, design and creative culture. Free for everyone and open Tue to Sat 10 am to 6 pm.

Blue Space Contemporary arts Center97A Pho Duc Chinh, D1 Tel: 3821 3695bluespaceart@hcm.jpt.vnwww.bluespacegallery.comBusy, working gallery with easels propped up outside situated in the grounds of the beautiful Fine Arts Museum. Holds regular exhibitions by local artists.

Duc Minh Gallery31C Le Quy Don, D3 Tel: 3933 0498Housed in an opulent colonial mansion, private museum and art gallery show-cases the private art collection of Viet-namese business tycoon Bui Quoc Chi. Containing more than 1,000 pieces that range from traditional to contemporary.

Galerie Quynh65 De Tham, D1 Tel: 3836 8019www.galeriequynh.comThe city’s only international standard gallery, housed in a modern, two-floor space. Organizes regular exhibitions featuring established, emerging local/international contemporary artists, pub-lishes original catalogs in both English and Vietnamese.

Ho Chi Minh City fine arts Museum97A Pho Duc Chinh, D1 Tel: 3829 4441btmthcm@hotmail.comInstitution housing contemporary/tradi-tional works by Vietnamese and foreign artists. Pieces date from as early as the 7th century. Includes Vietnamese antiques, art crafted by the Cham and Funan peoples.

San art independent artist Space3 Me Linh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3840 0898hoa@san-art.orgwww.san-art.orgArtist-run, non-profit exhibition space featuring contemporary work by young Vietnamese artists. San Art hosts guest lecturers and curators. A reading room of art books and magazines is open to the public.

TuDo Gallery53 Ho Tung Mau, D1 Tel: 3821 0966www.tudogallery.comHosting permanent exhibitions of works by the city’s artists, Tu Do deals in oils, silk paintings and lacquerware. More than 1,000 pieces on show.

Sport StreetHuyen Tran Cong Chua, D1 between Nguyen Du and Nguyen Thi Minh KhaiServices include mending and restringing broken tennis rackets. Products range from badminton birdies and rackets to basketball hoops, free weights, roller blades, scooters, soccer jerseys and all manner of balls.

Trophies & Custom Signage StreetLe Lai, D1 between Truong Dinh and Nguyen Thai HocOffers custom engraving on trophies and plaques made of plastic, wood, metal and glass.

CRICKETSaigon Cricket assocationSocial cricket league plays 25 overs a side matches Sunday mornings at RMIT’s District 7 pitch. Season runs No-vember through May, with friendly games throughout the pre-season. Practice on Saturdays and Sunday afternoons.

australian Cricket ClubTerry Gordon terrygordoninasia@yahoo.com.ausaigonaustraliancricketclub@yahoo.comwww.saigoncricket.com

english Cricket ClubRichard Carrington Richard.carrington@pivotalvietnam.cominfo@eccsaigon.comwww.eccsaigon.com

indian Cricket ClubManish Sogani, manish@ambrij.com

United Cricket ClubMr. Asif Ali, asif@promo-tex.netkeshav.dayalani@rmit.edu.vn

DANCINGDanCenter53 Nguyen Dang Giai, Thao Dien, District 2Tel: 3840 6974www.dancentervn.comPurpose built studio with foreign trained dance instructors. Classes in jazz, ballet, tap, hip hop, yoga, zumba, belly, hula, capoiera and more. Kids can start from 4+ and adults of all ages and levels are welcome. Schedule and news on events available on-line.

Salsa Dancing at la Habana 6 Cao Ba Quat, D1www.salsaigon.comsalsaigon@gmail.comSix-week salsa package at 350,000 VND for single persons and 550,000 for a couple, run by Urko. Lessons every Tuesday (beginners L.A. style at 7.30 pm; intermediate L.A style at 8.30 pm). Registration required.

FITNESS & YOGAaiS Sports Centre36 Thao Dien, An Phu, D2Tel: 3744 6960, ext 126 sportscentre@aisvietnam.com www.aissportscentre.comFeatures six-lane, 25-metre pool, basketball and netball courts, astroturf hockey/football area and outdoor gym equipment. Available for party hire, with

sports & leisure

listingsBBQ included on request. Membership packages available. Kids swim club and adult masters programmes. Rainbow Divers offers scuba diving courses for children and adults. Free morning yoga.

California WOW XperienceParkson Plaza, 126 Hung Vuong, D528/30-32 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 6291 5999The world’s biggest fitness centre chain is one of Saigon’s most modern places to get your sweat on. Located in Hung Vuong Plaza, CWX offers a huge work-out area and all kinds of classes including spinning, KickFit, yoga and more.

Caravelle Club Spa19 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3823 4999Modern and stylish gym with lots of car-diovascular machines and free weights. The swimming pool is a great place for a dip, and the massage parlour, sauna, steam room and jacuzzi are there for winding down.

Curves15 Trinh Van Can, D1 Tel: 3821 0319www.curvesvietnam.comCurves is a women’s only fitness franchise with over 10,000 locations and four million members. The centre offers a famous 30-minute total body workout that they say will burn up to 500 calories. Features training on ‘double positive’ resistance equipment.

Yoga & Bodywork with Daphne Tel: 012 6662 6467yogadaphne@gmail.comwww.daphnechua.comDaphne offers yoga classes, Reiki and Thai Yoga Massage in the city as well as in Phu My Hung. Each session with Daphne is unique and different, with a focus on breath and body awareness, combined with fluid movements to provide the perfect balance in nurturing the body and mind.

Diamond Way Buddhism Meditation GroupTel: 093 804 3753Email: SaigonGompa@gmail.comwww.diamondway-teachings.orgMeditation group using methods of Tibetan Buddhism. Diamond Way or Vajrayana Buddhism guides practitioners to experience the nature of their own mind to reach Enlightenment.

equinox fitness & leisure CentreEquatorial Hotel, 242 Tran Binh Trong, D5 Tel: 3839 7777Decent-sized 3rd-floor gym with modern cardio and weights machines, sauna, steambath, jacuzzi, and large 4th floor pool great for swimming laps.

erick Tony Varin, fitness andSwimming instructorTel: 0939 026 540Erickforcearca@hotmail.comFrench instructor offers individual adapted programmes at home or at your gym, including weight loss, muscle gain, athletic training and post-traumatic treatment. Swimming and aqua aerobics classes for groups or individuals are also offered.

K1 fitness and fight factory346 Ben Van Don, D4 Tel: 0918 337 111www.teamminetti.comFitness centre teaching English and Thai boxing, karate, Vietnamese martial arts, judo, fencing, grappling, and mixed martial arts with classes for both adults and children. All training conducted by a professional foreign instructor.

l’apothiquaire fitness Centre64A Truong Dinh, D3 Tel: 3932 5181www.lapothiquaire.comInternationally-certified teachers offer daily classes in Sivananda, Iyengar, Power, Yoga, Abdo-Pilates, Taebo and

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Aqua-Aerobics. Peaceful swimming pool, sauna and steam room.

la CochinchineRex Hotel, 146 Pastuer, D1Tel: 3825 1812 (ext 7477)New and affordable fitness centre locat-ed in the heart of the city. This gym has a wide range of weight machines, as well as many cardio machines, including treadmills, cross-trainers and bikes. A good variety of classes are available, including yoga and aerobic dance.

legend Hotel fitness Centre2A-4A Ton Duc Thang, D1One of the best hotel fitness centres. Very well-equipped gym with cardiovas-cular and weight machines, along with a circular swimming pool and massage parlour. A three-month membership costs USD $400++.

Nutrifort2B1 Chu Manh Trinh, D1 Tel: 3825 8560news@nutrifort.com/www.nutrifort.comComprehensive health and fitness centre offering customized exercise, nutritional counseling to members. Specializing in weight loss programs, core/body alignment training with Pilates equipment. Healthy snacks available.

NTfQ2 Spa34 Nguyen Dang Giai, D2Tel: 3744 6672Therapeutic massage with a focus on sports massage to increase circulation, remove lactic acid build-up, restore flex-ibility and relieve back pain.

Park Hyatt fitness Centre2 Lam Son Square, D1 Tel: 3824 1234Luxury health centre with the full range of facilities including swimming pool, steam room, jacuzzi and fitness centre. Three-month peak membership costs USD $810++ and off-peak is $450++.

Renaissance Hotel Health Club8-15 Ton Duc Thang, D1Tel: 3822 0033Stylish health club with gym, swimming pool, steam room, massage parlour, pool-side bar and an outstanding view of the city. Costs USD $140 a month, or $10 a day.

Saigon fitness ClubNew World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, D1Tel: 3822 8888The modern Nautilus-equipped gym is staffed by highly-qualified instructors to cater for your fitness needs. Features a swimming pool, floodlit tennis court, golf driving range, jogging track, sauna, and massage rooms.

Sheraton fitnessLevel 5, Sheraton Saigon Hotel & Tow-ers, 88 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 2828sheraton.saigon@sheraton.comwww.sheraton.com/saigonSheraton Fitness features a team of trained professionals and new Techno-gym equipment. Members have full use of leisure facilities and receive discounts at hotel bars and restaurants and Aqua Day Spa.

Soham Yoga Studio & Boutique84T/4 Tran Dinh Xu, D1 Tel: 3920 5813Soham offers Vinyasa Flow, Sivananda and Power yoga all taught by Yoga Alliance certified instructors. Soham's boutique stocks high-quality yoga prod-ucts from Manduka and Jade as well as locally made yoga accessories and international yoga publications.

Sofitel Saigon Plaza fitness Centre17 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3824 1555Small but well-equipped gym with helpful staff and quality equipment. Membership costs USD $700++ for six months and $1,300++ for a year. Also runs a number of fitness classes including yoga.

Yoga & Meditation Centre335 Dien Bien Phu, D3 Tel: 3929 1706www.ymc.orgProfessional team of Western and local teachers show you how to practice a combination of yoga and meditation with a range of classes such as Hatha, Yin, Vikram, Ashtanga yoga and Pilates.

Yoga living95 Pasteur, D1Tel: 098 880 4598info@yogaliving.com.vnwww.yogaliving.com.vnYoga studio offering hatha, vinyasa, power and ashtanga yoga. Schedule can be self-made by members.

FOOTBALL & RUGBYaustralian Rules football Tel: 093 768 3230www.vietnamswans.com vietnamswans@gmail.com The Vietnam Swans play regular interna-tional footy matches around Asia. Train-ing sessions are held weekly in HCM City (2.30 pm Saturday, RMIT D7) and Hanoi (midday, Saturday, UN International School, Ciputra). All skill levels and codes welcome.

les Gaulois de Saigonwww.gauloisdesaigon.cominfo@gauloisdesaigon.com A new team of French footballers, the side invites players and their families to come and join in their friendly training sessions, where everyone can get to-gether and enjoy the sport while making new friends. Contact Sebastien on 0919 691785 or Romain on 0908 060139.

RMiT Vietnamsports.recreation@rmit.edu.vnA new player on the SIFL scene with a team made up of students from the University. They have their own football ground on-site consisting of two brand new pitches. Contact Landon Carnie.

Saigon Raidersjon.hoff@saigonraiders.comSociable football side who are always on the lookout for new talent for their weekly matches and training sessions. The team participates in the Saigon International Football League and also has regular fixtures against local teams in the outly-ing provinces and also participates in international tournaments.

Saigon Rugby ClubTel: 0903 735 799www.saigonrfc.orgsaigonrugbyfootballclub@yahoo.comSocial, mixed touch rugby played every Saturday afternoon for adults at RMIT from 4 pm until 6 pm. Regularly welcomes visiting teams and tours the region for men’s contact and women’s touch rugby tournaments. Beginners welcome.

Saigon Saintschris@saigonsaints.comwww.saigonsaints.comExpat football club of all ages, which has been running since 1995 and plays in the SIFL. Regularly venture on international tours especially to Bangkok and Manila and play in other local and international tournaments. The players train weekly, and new players are encouraged to join.

Suzanne & Saigon YogaTel: 090 835 2265 suzanne@saigonyoga.comSuzanne is an ERYT- 200 (Experienced) Yoga Alliance Instructor. She boasts two decades of experience, offering various yoga styles in District 2 and yoga retreats in Vietnam.

GOLFDalat Palace Golf ClubPhu Dong Thien Vuong, Dalat

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Tel: 063 3821 101dpgc@vietnamgolfresorts.com The most beautiful course in Vietnam, combining the crisp mountain air with an environment of stately pine trees. Overlooking Xuan Huong lake, the 7,009-yard course is an enjoyable chal-lenge for golfers of all levels.

Dong Nai Golf ResortTrang Bom Town, Trang BomTel: 061 3866 288 / 3677 590www.dongnaigolf.com.vnLarge golf resort with 27 holes, plus a villa complex, bar, sauna. jacuzzi and billiards. The resort sits on 160 hectares of land in Dong Nai Province, about 50 kilometres from the city. Membership starts at USD $2,000 a year.

Ocean Dunes Golf Club1 Ton Duc Thang, Phan ThietTel: 062 3821 995odgc@vietnamgolfresorts.com Designed by Nick Faldo, the 6,746-yard par-72 course winds through seaside dunes, with the variable coastal breezes changing its character each day. An enjoyable and eminently playable course and has become a favourite venue for expatriate tournaments.

Saigon South GolfNguyen Van Linh, Tan Phu, D7Tel: 5411 2001sgs.golf@yahoo.com.vnNine-hole mini golf course and driving range set amongst attractive gardens just behind FV Hospital. Membership starts from USD $700 for 6 months. Visitors’ greens fees for a round of golf are around USD $16 before 5 pm and $19 after. Club, shoe and umbrella hire is also available.

SaigonSports academy leagueTel: 093 215 3502greg@saigonsportsacademy.comwww.saigonsportsacademy.com12-week, 5 a side community football league with Adult, U18, U14, U10 and U7 divisions. Matches held at Thao Dan Stadium in District 1. Corporate, local and expat teams compete in adult divi-sion with cash prize for champions.

Song Be Golf Resort77 Binh Duong Blvd, Thuan AnTel: 0650 3756 660info@songbegolf.comwww.songbegolf.comLocated 22 kilometres from the city centre, the premier golf course in the area features an 18-hole, 6,384-metre course. Also has tennis courts, a swim-ming pool, and a gymnasium.

Vietnam Golf and Country ClubLong Thanh My Village, D9www.vietnamgolfcc.comThis facility consists of two courses of 18 holes each, one of which is designed in a more traditional Asian style, and the other in international style. Has other attractions such as boating, tennis and a restaurant area.

LEISUREHash House Harrierswww.saigonh3.comRunning club that meets every Sunday at 2 pm at the Caravelle Hotel to go on a run in different locations out of town with their traditional balance of exercise and beer.

Phun Runnerinfo@phun-run.comSocial running group that meets Sat-urdays at 7 am for a scenic run around Saigon before breakfast. Great way to explore the city, meet fellow runners and get fit for future events. Check website for rendezvous points.

Rangers Baseball ClubIsao Shimokawajiisao.shimokawaji@sapporobeer.co.jp

A baseball club always looking for additional players of any age, race or experience level. Plays Saturdays or Sundays, often against Korean or Vietnamese teams.

Saigon international Dart leaguewww.thesidl.comA highly popular group in town, the darts club runs a competitive year-long league for 16 pub-based teams. There are some excellent players in this sociable and international group. See website for details of how to join and latest 180 scores.

Saigon international Softball leaguesisl@saigonsoftball.infowww.saigonsoftball.infoThe league plays slo-pitch softball every Sunday (usually at the Taiwanese School in Phu My Hung) and always welcomes newcomers. Saigon Pony ClubLane 42, Le Van Thinh, D2Tel: 0913 733 360A standout facility offering pony rides, riding lessons, horse clinics and pony rentals. Also hosts events and birthdays.

Senior expat ChitChat Weekly “Coffee Talk” meetings among seniors at the Palace Hotel Café (56 – 66 Nguyen Hue, D1) each Tuesday from 10 to 11.30 am. The informal group is for local expatriates and English-speak-ing foreign travellers who meet to share experiences and make new friends. Call club organizer Sheldon Pruss at 0932 031 837.

SquashThe Landmark, 5B Ton Duc Thang, D1Tel: 3822 2098 ext 176www.thelandmarkvietnam.comOne of three squash courts in town. Membership is open to non-Landmark residents and drop-in players. Lessons and racquets are available for additional fees. Balls are provided. Book in ad-vance or phone for further information.

Ultimate frisbeeRMIT, 702 Nguyen Van Linh, D7www.saigon-ultimate.comJoin in this exciting popular sport every Sunday afternoon from 3pm to 5pm in Saigon South. Pan-Asian competi-tions also organised for the more experienced. Contact David Jensen at 0909458890

Vietnam Hobby Brewershobbybrewer.vietnam@gmail.comwww.hobbybrewer-vietnam.de.tlSmall group of beer enthusiasts gather bi-monthly at microbrewery to talk beer, share brewing tips and sample homemade suds. The group is keen on taking on new members with an interest in learning how to brew.

Vietwings Paraglidinginfo@vietwings-hpg.comPromoted by a local advertising execu-tive turned test pilot, paragliding, hang-gliding, trike plane can be performed in several locations across southern Vietnam including Dalat, Phan Thiet, Tay Ninh. Call Loco on 0903 825607 for more information.

X-Rock ClimbingPhan Dinh Phung Sport Centre75 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D3Tel: 6278 5794503A Nguyen Duy Trinh, D2 Tel: 2210 9192www.xrockclimbing.comOffering safe and professional climbing for anyone aged 4 and up. Featuring mountain climbing routes rated from beginner to advanced, climbing and belay-safety courses and training, birthday parties, corporate team build-ing. Excellent facilities for children and annual membership for kids.

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questions for the coiffeur

Q. My stylist dry cuts my hair. Is that ok? I’m never 100 percent happy with it.A. In general, no cut should be done dry, but there are excep-tions. For instance, I cut one of my African American client’s hair dry. It just works better on her hair. However, dry cutting is not the norm. It’s much easier to approach layer cutting and achieve symmetry with wet hair. The natural wave move-ments are not always obvious with dry hair for a number of reasons, either. The only time a stylist should cut dry is on completion of the style. This is where the stylist will feather-cut into the ends to blend in the layers more or texturise.

Q. I’ve used a lot of prod-ucts and am never re-ally happy with the results. Which product is right for me? A. This has always been a thorn in the side for many women, but doesn’t have to be. It all hangs on one word: application. Firstly, you should discuss with your stylist what products would be good for your hair type. Don’t buy anything until your stylist tries it out on your hair. You also have to ask yourself what effect you want to achieve. Then you can make a choice between wax, gel, mousse or hairspray. Wax should be used on a completed style, although I sometimes use it before drying

a cut. Apply it evenly through the hair with your fingertips, avoiding the roots. I rarely use it on long layered cuts.

Mousse is a holding product designed for curly or wavy styles. Use a tennis ball size amount of mousse for each side of the head. Scoop up the mousse with your hand and, with a wide-tooth comb, proceed to comb it into the hair. This will ensure even distribution of the product.

Gel should be put into the hair when it is reasonably wet. Rub it in evenly with your hands and finish off with some rigorous combing. Then proceed to style.

Hairspray is the age-old ‘Mister Reliable.’ It has many uses, the obvious being to hold a style in place. You can also use it to get root lift by spraying it onto your fingertips and massaging it around the scalp area with your head upside down. You can spray it onto wet hair before the hair dries. Once the hair is dry, throw your head upside down and shake your fingers through it to break up the hold. Most people with a wash-and-wear style find this application very rewarding.

Lloyd Morgan runs the Lloyd Morgan International Hair Stu-dio at 234 Nguyen Van Huong, Thao Dien, D2. Contact him at 0908 422 007 or lloydart@yahoo.com.

By lloyd Morgan

International-standard cosmetic proce-dures from simple dermabrasion and chemical peels to collagen injections, nose and eye shaping, liposuction, and breast enhancement. Procedures carried out by French and Vietnamese doctors using the latest equipment.

Parkway Shenton international ClinicSuite 213-214, 37 Ton Duc Thang, D1Owned by the Singapore-based healthcare giant Parkway Holdings, this aesthetics clinic offers a range of both surgical and non-surgical treatments including dental reconstruction.

DENTALaccadent Dental Clinic1st Floor, 161 Dong Khoi, D1Tel: 3825 8528English and German-speaking dentists. Accadent provide State of the Art German quality Dentistry, Sterilisation, customer care and Painless Treatments.German dentists are specialised in Esthetic Dentistry, Implants, Periodontol-ogy and Endodontics with latest German quality to all needs.

european Dental Clinic17 - 17A Le Van Mien, Thao Dien, D2Tel: 0918 749 204/08 3744 9744Expat English and French-speaking dentist. Performs full range of dental treatment including whitening, aesthetic fillings, porcelain crowns, full ceramics, veneer and orthodontic treatment. 24-hour emergency line: 0909 551 916 or 0916 352940.

Koseikai Dental Clinic3rd floor, 21 Nguyen Trung Ngan, D1Tel: 3910 6255info@koseikai.com.vnwww.koseikaidentist.com A member of Dental Clinic Vietnam, provide full range of dental services with the latest in technology, delivery of laboratory work and new technologies now available.

Starlight Dental ClinicDr. Philippe Guettier & International Team of Dentists2Bis Cong Truong Quoc Te, D1 Tel: 3822 6222doe.linh@gmail.comWith 14 years’ experience providing dental treatment to expat and Vietnam-ese patients, this well-known dental surgery is staffed by both foreign & local practitioners. Au fait with the latest treatments and techniques, the surgery prides themselves on their high standard of equipment & sterilization.

Tu Xuong Dental Clinic 51A Tu Xuong, D3 Tel: 3932 2049/050drhung01@yahoo.comwww.nhakhoatuxuong.comProvides general and cosmetic dental services at reasonable prices. Special-ises in implants, orthodontic treatments and making crowns and bridges. Staff are professional and speak English.

Westcoast international Dental ClinicBen Thanh Clinic, 27 Nguyen Trung Truc, D1. Tel: 3825 6777The Practice: Level 1, 71-79 Dong Khoi, D1. Tel: 3825 6999info@westcoastinternational.comwww.westcoastinternational.comWestcoast International Dental Clinic provides quality dental work, combining state-of-the-art techniques, a talented and highly skilled team and affordable prices.

See Medical listings for hospitals with dental services.

HAIR & SALONanthony George for london Hair & Beauty FIDECO Riverview Building14 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3744 6475www.aglondonsalon.com.vn Top British stylist George brings his unique flair to hair in District 2. The

ALTERNATIVE MEDICINEamerican Chiropractic Clinic8 Truong Dinh, D3 Tel: 3930 6667 or 0917 180 764www.vietnamchiropractic.comA modern clinic providing chiropractic, physiotherapy, and foot care. Staffed by American-trained chiropractic physicians and a licensed American-educated doctor of physical therapy who speaks French, English, Chinese, Vietnamese and Korean.

Ciro GargiuloCARE1 Executive Health Care CenterThe Manor, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh,Binh Thanh Tel: 3514 0757care1_reception@vietnammedicalprac-tice.comwww.care1.com.vnA holistic approach is used by this acupuncturist and traditional medicine practitioner to rebalance the body’s energy fields. A wide range of ailments are treated including back pain, allergies and insomnia.

institute of Traditional Medicine273-275 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu NhuanDr. Le Hung is the man to see at this well-established traditional hospital & training centre. He speaks good English and provides excellent treatments in a clean environment. The Institute also provides acupuncture lessons at USD $30 per day.

Osteopathic Medicine/Physiotherapy – David Truong TanTel: 0903 09 81 24 www.osteopathy-vietnam.comFrench-trained osteopath and physio-therapist specializing in the treatment of back pain and muscular, ligament and joint problems using a holistic approach and gentle manipulative techniques. Consultations available at International SOS in District 3 and Nutrifort in Districts 1 and 2.

Theta Healing– Jodie eastwoodTel: 091 859 1933www.thetahealing.comA unique energy healing technique for mind, body and spirit. Jodie is a UK qualified practitioner based in HCM City.

Traditional Medicine Hospital197 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D3Friendly staff speak little to no English at this well-known ad spotlessly clean hospital offering treatments that combine traditional Chinese medicine with mod-ern knowledge and expertise.

COSMETIC TREATMENTCao Thang lasik & aesthetic Clinic135-135B Tran Binh Trong, D5Tel: 3923 4419 A modern clinic offering a comprehen-sive range of optical services. Specializes in LASIK correctional procedures, cost-ing from USD $700 to $1,100 for both eyes. English spoken. Open seven days a week.

fV Hospital Cosmetic Surgery45 Vo Thi Sau, D1 Tel: 6290 61676 Nguyen Luong Bang, D7 Tel: 5411 3366www.fvhospital.com

health & beauty

listings

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modern, stylish and professional salon is host to a staff of professionally trained beauty therapists. Uses Dermalogica, Schwarzkopf and L’Oreal products. Shampoo, cut and blow-dry starts at USD $26; mini facials from $12.

Jasmine45 Ton That Thiep, D1 Tel: 3827 2737jasminespa@hcm.vnn.vn Friendly and efficient staff offers haircuts and a wide range of services including waxing, manicures, pedicures and other beauty treatments. Skin renewal facial, salt or rice body scrub & deep tissue massage costs USD $98

le Brian Salon201 Calmette, D1195 Nguyen Van Hoang, D2Vietnamese-American hairstylist with dual locations, offering a full range of hair services, as well as professional make-up application.

lloyd Morgan international Hair Studio234 Nguyen Van Huong, Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 090 8422 007International stylist Lloyd Morgan is one of the best in town. He’s been in the business for over 30 years and brings his expertise to this established, top-notch salon.

Qi Spa151 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu NhuanTel: 3844 1719Caravelle Hotel Tel: 3824 7150Mövenpick Hotel Saigon, Tel: 3997 5437High-end salon and spa offers the standard range of services in a calming atmosphere with good service. Waxing, nail services, hair dressing as well as luxurious facial and massage treatments on offer.

Souche2nd Floor, Saigon Trade Centre37 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3910 0372A top-end beauty salon using the Dermatologica line of skincare products. Specialises in personalized facial care treatments from USD $30 and medi-cated acne treatments from $40. Waxing and other aesthetic services are also available in a pleasant atmosphere with excellent service.

Sunji Matsuo Hair StudioSaigon Paragon, 3 Nguyen Luong Bang, D7 Tel: 5416 0378Celebrity hairstylist Sunji Matsuo’s Sin-gapore-based hair salon has a variety of hair services including scalp treatments, rebonding and hair extensions.

The Salon21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1Tel: 3822 966065 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 3821 6394Reliable haircuts from well-trained stylists at this local salon with multiple locations. A haircut starts at USD $28 for women and $22 for men.

MEDICALaustralian Clinic & Pathology Diagnostics (aCPD)273-275 Ly Thai To, D10Tel: 3834 9941www.australianclinic.com.vn Services include general outpatient healthcare, corporate / visa health-checks, X-ray, full laboratory and in-house pharmacy including specialist medical services covering cardiology, paediatrics, obstetrics, gynecology, orthopedic and dermatology.

CaRe1 executive Health Care CenterThe Manor, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3514 0757care1_reception@vietnammedicalprac-tice.comwww.care1.com.vnSister clinic of Family Medical Prac-tice, CARE1 is an executive health care centre offering comprehensive preventative-care checkups in a modern

and professional setting. State-of-the-art technology provides fast and accurate diagnoses.

Centre Medical international (CMi)1 Han Thuyen, D1 Tel: 3827 2366www.cmi-vietnam.comLocated downtown next to the cathe-dral, the centre provides a high standard of medical care from qualified French and Vietnamese physicians. Its range of services include general and tropical medicine, cardiology, gynaecology, os-teopathy, pediatrics, psychiatry, speech therapy and traditional Eastern medicine.

Columbia asia Saigon Clinic8 Alexandre de Rhodes, D1Tel: 3823 8888Respected multi-specialty clinic with foreign and local physicians. Doctors on call 24 hours a day. Standard check-ups cost between 400,000 VND and 800,000 VND.

CounsellingBriar Jacques 0122 480 8792bjacques123@gmail.comHelps families, individuals, couples, chil-dren and teens. Caring and confidential counselling to address expat adjustment, depression, anxiety and substance abuse. Takes a holistic approach to enhance wellbeing on all levels.

family Medical Practice HCMCDiamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1Tel: 3822 7848www.vietnammedicalpractice.comLeading international primary healthcare provider, with a 24-hour state-of-the-art medical centre and highly-qualified multilingual foreign doctors. Extensive experience in worldwide medical evacu-ations with car and air ambulance on standby. Also in Hanoi and Danang.

fV Hospital6 Nguyen Luong Bang, D7 Tel: 5411 3333www.fvhospital.comA foreign-owned international-standard hospital with a mixture of French and Vietnamese physicians. Offers quality services, comprehensive patient care and is particularly well regarded for its maternity care. Full array of dental services from examination, cleaning and whitening to fillings, cosmetic proce-dures and implants. 24-hour emergency line: 3411 3500.

Hanh Phuc international Women & Children HospitalBinh Duong Boulevard, Thuan An, Binh DuongTel: 650 363 6068www.hanhphuchospital.comManaged by Thomson Medical Singa-pore, Hanh Phuc hospital provides a comprehensive range of facilities and service for primary to tertiary healthcare, focus in Obstestrics & Gyneacology and Paediatric. Soft opening was on the 3rd January 2011.

international SOS167A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D3Tel: 3829 8424www.internationalsos.comGlobally-renowned provider of medical assistance and international healthcare. Specializes in offering medical transport and evacuation both within and outside of Vietnam for urgent medical cases. Foreign and Vietnamese dentists. Has multilingual staff.

Victoria Healthcare international Clinic 135A Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3997 454579 Dien Bien Phu, D1 Tel: 39104545 Well-regarded clinic offering general examinations and specializing in pediat-rics, digestive diseases, cardiology and women's health. Offers a membership program and cooperates with most insurance companies in Vietnam and abroad. Open with doctors on call 24/7.

Early Childhood Program

International & Bilingual(English and Vietnamese/French/or Mandarin)

MONTESSORIMONTESSORIEarly Childhood Program

International & Bilingual(English and Vietnamese/French/or Mandarin)

Outstanding indoor & outdoor facilities.After school activities for children 3-10 yrs: Music, PE, Art & language classes (English, French, Mandarin Chinese).

Infant & Toddler program: for children aged 6 to 17 monthsKindergarten program: for children aged 1.5 to 6 yearsHalf day and full day

www.montessori.edu.vninfo@montessori.edu.vn

Thao Dien Campus:42/1 Ngo Quang Huy, Dist.2, HCMCAn Phu Campus:Ground �oor, Block B, An Khang/Intresco Apartment (Behind Metro supermarket Dist.2, HCMC)

Tel: 37442639 - 351945620903 858659

MontessoriInternational Schoolof Vietnam

In the cIty’s heart a medIcal centerFOr the heart In VIetnam.

All of CMI’s profits are dedicated to the Fondation Alain Carpentier that pays for destitute Vietnamese children to have

cardiac surgery at the Heart Institute of Ho Chi Minh City.

Centre MediCal international - Fondation alain Carpentier 1 Han thuyen, Q. 1, tP Ho Chi Minh, Vietnamtél : (84.8) 38 27 23 66 / 67 - Fax : (84.8) 38 27 23 65 www.cmi-vietnam.com - info@cmi-vietnam.com

our complementary medical team takes care of adults and children, building up an individual therapy according to their needs.

osteopath Psychologist Psychomotor therapist Speech therapist traditional oriental

practitioner

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in a HealtHyMind

body

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Helene Kling Paintinghelene_kling@yahoo.comOffers classes in oil painting to both children and adults for 150,000 VND and 300,000 VND respectively. Classes are paced to suit each student.

Martin Donnelly & Briar Jacquesmdonnell36@msn.comCel: 0946 015 697bjacques123@gmail.comCel: 0122 480 8792Helping families, individuals, couples, chil-dren and teens. Caring and confidential counselling to address issues such as expat adjustment, depression, anxiety and substance abuse. We take a holistic approach to enhance wellbeing on men-tal, emotional and physical levels.

Rubba Duckies Swim Schoolrubbaduckiesswim@hotmail.comParent and infant water familiarisation classes in a group environment from six to 48 months. Classes take place at Somerset Apts., D1; Riverside, D2; APSC, D2 or AI D2 and D3. Email for schedule.

Saigon MovementAn Phu Tel: 098 702 7722saigonmovement@gmail.comSports and creative movement classes for kids 2 to 11. Classes improve children’s total body awareness through a variety of games and sports-based activities. Phu My Hung schedule starts in September.

Saigon Pony ClubLane 42, Le Van Thinh, D2Tel: 0913 733 360Close to X-rock climbing centre, kids from three and upwards can ride one of the stable’s 16 ponies. Lessons with foriegn teachers last 45 minutes and cost 350,000 VND for kids from age six.

SaigonSports academyAn Phu and Phu My Hung Tel: 0862 819 790

info@saigonsportsacademy.comSports academy founded by pro tennis coach currently offering tennis, football, basketball and swimming training to kids 4 to 18. Professional coaches integrate international concepts and systems to draw out athletes’ natural abilities. Also operates a youth football league.

The Performing arts academy 19A Ngo Quang Huy, D2 Tel: 090 339 0675 info@paa.com.vnwww.paa.com.vnEnrolling aspiring learners 6 and up for instruction in guitar, singing, piano, flute, clarinet, saxophone and drums. ABRSM qualified. Group dance and drama session also available. Offering Tiny Tots music enrichment & dance program for ages 3-5.

Tae KwondoBP Compound, 720 Thao Dien, D2 and Riverside Villa Compound, Vo Truong Toan, D2phucteacherkd@yahoo.comPrivate and group classes are run after school three times a week by the friendly Mr. Phuc. Anyone over the age of five is welcome to join in the course, which costs USD $50 for 12 classes/month with a $25 fee for non-members. Con-tact Mr. Phuc directly on 0903 918 149.

BABY EQUIPMENTBaby66B Cach Mang Thang Tam, D10A large store stocking a good range of baby needs, including toys, buggies, cots and bottles. Prices are reasonable.

BabylandSaigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1Quality products including car seats, buggies, prams and travel cots and a good selection of baby toys. Carries Avent bottles and sterilizer sets, and a

small range of educational books. Prices are higher than the other places, but so is the quality.

Maman BebeVincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1Tel: 3825 8724www.mamanbebe.com.vnStocks an assortment of modern stroll-ers and car seats. Also sells various utensils and practical baby products. Small selection of clothing for ages newborn to 14 years.

Me & Be230 Vo Thi Sau, D340 Ton That Tung, D1141D Phan Dang Luu, Phu Nhuan246 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D3101-103 Khanh Hoi, D4287A Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan The closest thing to Mothercare the city has to offer. Stocks a substantial range of apparel for babies including bottles and sterilizers, cots (including travel cots), clothing, toys, safety equipment and more, all at reasonable prices.

Me Oi1B Ton That Tung, D1A small shop adjacent to the maternity hospital bursting at the seams with ev-erything you need for your baby. Cloth-ing, footwear, bottles, nappies, nappy bags and toys all at reasonable prices.

New Parent StreetNguyen Thong Street, D3 between Ly Chinh Thang and Ky Dong Street.An interesting array of baby formula and hard liquor. A one stop shopping cluster for first time parents.

CLOTHESChildren Planet90 Vo Thi Sau, D1 Mid to high-range prices for quality ap-parel, imported material from Singapore.

ACTIVITIESalpha Gallery10 Chu Manh Trinh, D1Printmaking classes for both adults and children run by Swiss artist Bernadette Gruber. Six-week courses start with the basics and swiftly move students towards producing proofs and final prints from copper plates they have created. Free-dom of expression is encouraged and other mediums are also explored. Conservatory of Music112 Nguyen Du, D1The established training centre for profes-sional musicians offers private piano and violin lessons to foreigners in the evenings.

DanCenter53 Nguyen Dang Giai, Thao Dien, District 2Tel: 3840 6974www.dancentervn.comChildren and teenagers from age 4+ can enjoy jazz, ballet, tap, hip hop, acro dance and break dance classes at this professionally run, newly built dance studio. Schedule and news on events available on-line.

family

listings

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Offering from the age of 5 to 14 years old boys and girls.

DebenhamsVincom Center, 70 - 72 Le Thanh Ton, District 1A superb range of unique and beautiful clothing for young children (from new-borns to 12 years old) imported brand from UK. High to mid-range prices.

DlS Paris17/5 Le Thanh Ton, D1Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1A superb range of unique and beautiful clothing for young children (from new-borns to pre-school age) at high to mid-range prices. The quality compensates for the price. Bedding, baby equipment and furniture and organic and natural supplies also kept in stock.

little anh – em41 Thao Dien, D2A French brand made in Vietnam offering a wide selection of colourful, simply packaged and thoughtfully collated “sets” of garments for girls and boys from newborn to 10 years old. Lifestyle pieces also available include sleeping bags, bedroom accessories and bags.

Ninh Khuong44 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 3824 745683 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 9079220 De Tham, D1 Tel: 3920 3224222 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D3 Tel: 3930 9183www.ninhkhuong.vnWell-known hand-embroidered children’s clothing brand using 100% cotton. New-born to 10 years old (girl) and fourteen years old (boy). Also stocking home linens. Prices are reasonable.

Peekaboo173 Ly Tu Trong, D1 Tel: 3612 8329263 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D1Locally designed apparel for girls, ages 1 to 10. Materials include cotton, wool and satin. High to mid-range prices.

REVEVilla Anupa, 17/27 Le Thanh Ton, District 1, Tel: 3825 7307High-end cashmere, lace, and cotton clothes designed by a French mother/daughter team. All pieces are handmade and tailored for infants to kids 2 years of age.

Small is Beautiful227 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 38 23 87 54contact@smallisb.com www.smallisb.comThis newly opened boutique aims to be the chic shop for kids in the city. There is a selection of brand name clothing, accessories and creative toys. Clothing comes from international designers such as Baby Dior, Sonia Rykiel and DKNY.

Tuti BellaVincom Center, 70 - 72 Le Thanh Ton, District 175 Mac Thi Buoi, D149A Nguyen Trai, D1Tel: 3993 9088www.tutibella.netSelf-described as a “chic and trendy children boutique.” Carries high-end causal clothes, formal wear, shoes and accessories for ages 1 to 12 years.

EDUCATIONaBC international School2,1E Street, KDC Trung Son, Binh Hung, Binh Chanh Tel: 5431 1833abcintschoolss@vnn.vnwww.theabcis.comUK standards-based curriculum awards diploma with IGCSE’s & A Levels certified by Cambridge Universit examinations board. From playgroup to pre-university matriculation. Served by 80+ British

teachers. Good facilities and extra-curric-ular activities.

aCG international SchoolEast West Highway, An Phu, D2 Tel: 3747 1234www.acgedu.comPart of the Academic Colleges Group’s international network of schools, ACG offers comprehensive education from kindergarten to senior high school and a range of extracurricular activities. Interna-tional curricula (IB PYP and Cambridge International Examinations).

The australian international School SaigonCherry Blossom 1 & Lotus 1, APSC Compound, 36 Thao Dien, D2Tel: 3744 6960Middle & Senior Campus21 Pham Ngoc Thach, D3Tel: 3822 4992 enrolment@aisvietnam.comwww.aisvietnam.comAn international curricula and PYP/MYP candidate school. Senior students follow IGCSE and Cambridge A levels. Only school in Vietnam authorized to deliver University of New South Wales Founda-tion Studies grade 12 curriculum. Well-resourced classrooms, highly trained and experienced expatriate teachers, outfitted for academic, sport, creative activities.

British international SchoolPrimary Campus43 - 45 Tu Xuong, D3225 Nguyen Van Huong, D2Secondary Campus 246 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 Tel: 3744 2335www.bisvietnam.comWith campuses all over the city and ex-pansion underway, BIS offers a mixture of both English and International curricula-based education alongside excellent facilities and extra-curricular activities. Senior students follow the IGCSE and IB programmes.

Canadian international SchoolSC 39, Panorama Building, Nguyen Duc Canh, Phu My Hung, D7Tel: 5412 1549Residential Quarter 13C, Nguyen Van Linh, Phong Phu Commune, Binh Chanhwww.cis.edu.vncis@cis.edu.vnThe first Canadian international school in Vietnam offers classes from kindergarten to grade 9 for local and foreign students. Teaches core Ontario curriculum and awards Ontario Secondary School Diploma (OSSD), recognized by universi-ties worldwide. Vietnamese programme taught by local teachers.

Horizon international Bilingual School HCMC6 Street 44, D2 Tel: 5402 2482www.hibsvietnam.comThe only bilingual international school offering dormitories for their students. Located in the most prestigious area in HCMC offering from kindergarten up to grade 12. The school apply 100% Vietnamese curriculum, MOET as well as an intensive English program. HIBS also has 2 campuses in centre Hanoi.

international School HCMC28 Vo Truong Toan, D2 Tel: 3898 9100www.ishcmc.comOne of 136 schools around the world to be accredited as an IB World School. Offers all three of the IB programmes from primary through to grade 12. The school is fully accredited by CIS and NEASC and has a strong focus on community spirit and fosters an awareness of other languages and cultures.

international School Saigon Pearl92 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh District Tel: 2220 1788/89www.issp.edu.vnOpening in August, 2011, the single purpose-built campus will cater for nursery through grade five. In the

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second year, sixth grade will be added. ISSP’s long-term strategic plan includes complete middle and high schools. In the spring of 2011 ISSP will host the Western Association of Schools and Col-leges (the largest American accreditation agency in Asia). Accreditation will allow children to easily transfer to schools abroad.

The little Genius international Kindergarten102 My Kim, Phu My Hung, D7Tel: 5421 1052Kindergarten with U.S.-accredited cur-riculum, modern facilities andattractive school grounds.

Montessori international SchoolInternational Program42/1 Ngo Quang Huy, D2 Tel: 3744 2639Bilingual Program28 Street 19, KP 5, An Phu, D2Tel: 6281 7675www.montessori.edu.vnMontessori utilizes an internationally recognized educational method which focuses on fostering the child’s natural desire to learn. The aim is to create an encouraging environment conducive to learning by developing a sense of self and individuality. A wide array of curricu-lum/extra-curricular activities are on offer including Bilingual programs.

Renaissance international School74 Nguyen Thi Thap, D7 Tel: 3773 3171www.rissaigon.edu.vnIB World school, one of Vietnam’s inter-national schools operating within the framework of the British system. RISS provide a high quality English medium education in a stimulating, challeng-ing and supportive environment. The purpose built, modern campus has excellent facilities.

RMiT702 Nguyen Van Linh, D7 Tel: 3776 1369Australian university located in District 7, offers a highly regarded MBA and undergraduate courses in various fields.

Saigon South international SchoolNguyen Van Linh Parkway, D7 Tel: 5413 0901www.ssis.edu.vnAn International school environment offering an American/international pro-gram in a large, spacious campus, to children from age 3 to grade 12. Great facilities, extra-curricular activities and internationally trained teachers giving unique opportunities to learn.

Saigon Star international SchoolResidential Area No. 5, Thanh My Loi Ward, D2 Tel: 3742 STAR Fax: 3742 3222enroll@saigonstarschool.edu.vnwww.saigonstarschool.edu.vnOffers a British primary curriculum approved by Cambridge University and integrated Montessori programme for nursery and kindergarten. Qualified, experienced teachers and small class sizes cater to individual needs and abilities.

Singapore international School (SiS)No.29, Road No.3, Trung Son Resi-dential Area, Hamlet 4, Binh Hung Ward, Binh Chanh DistrictTel: 5431 747744 Truong Dinh, D3Tel: 3932 2807Ground floor, Somerset Chancellor Court, 21 - 23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1. Tel: 3827 2464The Manor, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh. Tel: 3514 3036www.kinderworld.netStudents play and learn in an environ-ment where the best of Western and Eastern cultures amalgamate to pre-pare KinderWorld’s students for today’s challenging world drawn from both the Singapore and Australian curriculum.

The school offers International Cer-tifications such as the iPSLE, IGCSE and GAC.

SmartKids1172 Thao Dien Compound, D2Tel: 3744 607626 Street 10, D2Tel: 3898 9816www.smartkidsinfo.com An international childcare centre that provides kindergarten and pre-school education for children aged between 18 months and 6 years. A fun and friendly environment, the school fo-cuses on learning through play.

The American School172 - 180 Nguyen Van Huong, D2Tel: 3519 2223info@tasvietnam.edu.vnAn independent and private collage preparatory school with a highly indi-vidualized and personalized program, The American School of Vietnam offers a strong, US based curriculum for Kindergarten through Grade 12.

ENTERTAINMENTDiamond Plaza34 Le Duan, D1The top floor arcade and bowling alley is bound to keep your little ones enter-tained for hours with an impressive ar-ray of video games. Some child-friendly dining options too, with Pizza Hut on hand, a KFC and a New Zealand Natural ice cream concession.

Gymboree Play & MusicSomerset Chancellor Court21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1Tel: 3827 7008www.gymboreeclasses.com.vnThe Gymboree Play & Music offers children from newborn to 5 years old the opportunity to explore, learn and play in an innovative parent-child programmes.

Parkson Plaza39-45 Le Thanh Ton, D1Arcade game after arcade game line the top floor here with a bowling alley and a decent food court thrown in on the floor below. A good place to take the kids after trawling through Park-son’s numerous concession stands.

Vincom Center72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3936 9999A six-storey shopping centre that houses the world’s most famous luxury brands plus more than 250 fashion retailers and various restaurants. Each level has a coffee corner to help weary shoppers recoup while looking over the city. Open daily from 9 am to 10 pm.

PARTIESBeatrice’s Party Shop235 Le Thanh Ton, D1A lovely little shop selling everything you need to throw your little ones a good party. A catalogue of entertain-ers showcases a number of party favourites such as magicians, circuses and more.

Nguyen Ngoc Diem Phuong131C Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1A curious shop stocking a range of hand-made fancy dress costumes such as masks, superman outfits and much more. The stock changes seasonally, so this is a good place to stock up on Halloween, Christmas and other holiday-specific party costumes. Prices are also on the cheap.

The Balloon ManTel: 3990 3560Does exactly as his name suggests – balloons. Great service has earned this chap a reputation around town for turn-ing up almost instantly with a superb selection of balloons. Also provides helium balloons.almost instantly with a superb selection of balloons. Also provides helium balloons.

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BUSINESS GROUPSamChamNew World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, D1Business Centre, Room 323 Tel: 3824 3562www.amchamvietnam.com

ausChamTV Building, Suite 1A, 31A Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D1 Tel: 3911 0272 / 73 / 74www.auschamvn.org

British Business Group of Vietnam25 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3829 8430execmgr@bbgv.orgwww.bbgv.org

CanChamNew World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, D1 Business Centre, Room 305 Tel: 3824 3754www.canchamvietnam.org

Citibank Sun Wah Tower, 115 Nguyen Hue Boulevard, D1, HCMCTel: 3824 2118International Center, 17 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem District, Hanoi Tel: 3825 1950Citibank Vietnam offers a wide range of banking services to both consumer and corporate clients. Services include corporate and investment banking, global transaction services, and con-sumer banking. In Vietnam for 15 years, Citibank has a presence in both HCMC and Hanoi.

eurocham257 Hoang Van Thu, Tan Binh Tel: 3845 5528www.eurochamvn.org

German Business Group21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1www.gba-vietnam.org

Singapore Business GroupUnit 1B2, 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Tel: 3823 3046www.sbghcmc.org

Swiss Business association42 Giang Van Minh, Anh Phu, D2Tel: 3744 6996Fax: 3744 6990Email: sba@hcm.vnn.vn www.swissvietnam.com

Hong Kong Business associationNew World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, D1 Business Centre, Room 322 Tel: 3824 3757 / 3822 8888www.hkbav.com

NordChamBitexco Building, 19-25 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3821 5423www.nordcham.com

CAMERASHung Hai75 Huynh Thuc Khang, D1A good place to purchase hard-to-find gear and some rare equipment, mainly auto focus lenses.

le Duc5B Huynh Tinh Cua, D3A shop for all your professional acces-

living

listingssory needs. From lighting equipment to tripods and reflectors, the shop offers the best equipment and service in HCM City.

Pham The11 Le Cong Kieu, D1An authorized service centre for Nikon camera that also specializes in repairing all camera makes. Measurement equip-ment and spare parts also available.

Shop 4646 Nguyen Hue, D1Small shop run by photographer and collector. The owner’s more collectible pieces are pricey, but entry-level manual focus SLRs from the 70s and 80s are affordable.

COMPUTERSComputer StreetLuong Huu Khanh, D1 between Nguyen Thi Minh Khai and Nguyen TraiThis stretch of District 1 is literally wall to wall with small shops selling computers, printers, monitors and everything com-puter related, more so toward the NTMK end of the drag.

iCenter142A Vo Thi Sau, D3Tel: 3820 3918Professional, polished Apple retailer and repair centre with an attractive showroom featuring some of the latest in accesso-ries and audio. English-speakers on staff. Honours Apple service plans.

future World240 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D3Authorized reseller of Apple computers and products, as well as some off-brand items like headphones. Excellent service and English-speaking staff. Accepts credit cards.

Phong Vu Computer264C Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1Tel: 3933 0762www.vitinhphongvu.comThe biggest and busiest of the PC stores in town. Known for good, efficient service, in-house maintenance and after-sales repair on the second floor.

SYS Vi Tinh Saigon96C Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D1www.vtsaigon.comA superb place with an excellent reputation for after-sales service with competent English speaking staff and a wide range of products and services. Freeware and shareware also available on the store website.

CONSULTINGConcetti33 Dinh Tien Hoang, D1 Tel: 3911 1480 www.concetti-vn.comConsulting and research company for technology transfer and investment.

embers-asia ltd.Level 9, Nam Giao Building, 80-8 Phan Xich Long, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3995 9163www.embers-asia.comWith a focus on experiential learning, Embers-Asia has been creating anddelivering high-performance training and development solutions forcorporations, embassies, international schools and NGOs throughout Southeast Asia since 2002.

TORNaK Vietnam79C Dien Bien Phu, D1Tel: 09 3351 7402www.tornak-vietnam.comTornak Vietnam is an international train-ing consultancy specialised in leadership development and team performance solutions. We challenge and empower professionals to build better organisa-tions.

ernst & YoungSaigon Riverside Office Center, 2A-4A Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3824 5252

finance

With the decorations up—and the fact that you cannot walk down large parts of the city without orienteering round smiling girls making the V sign and having their photograph taken—we all know what time of year it is. Yes, it’s Christmas. It’s not surprising, even at this time of year, that the financial world has its own jargon and explanations for strange things that happen around this time.

Not only the best friend to children across the world—and to Coca-Cola—Santa is also well known in finance. In the investing world, Santa brings investors a ‘gift’ in the form of a jump in the price of stocks, known as the ‘Santa Claus rally’. This rally usually occurs between Christmas and New Year’s Day. Those of us who believe in the magic of Christ-mas think the rally may be due to seasonal cheer infecting the usually dour inhabitants of Wall Street. Now that is a true Christmas miracle.

While we all want a white Christmas, we know that it is impossible in Saigon, but not in Boston USA. For some bizarre reason, there is a theory called the ‘Boston snow indicator’ that states that if it snows in Boston on Christmas

day, there will be a rise in the markets on reopening. This is very unlikely but it adds to a list of other theories such as the ‘skirt length indicator’ and the ‘McDonalds wealth indicator.’

One thing to look forward to is the New Year bounce. The ‘January effect’ is also a stock market phenomenon that occurs at the end of the year as investors begin to fret over taxes. Investors whose portfolios have been very successful may sell any stocks that are down. This locks in the loss and allows the investor to write it off against his or her capital gains. When enough investors do this simultane-ously, it causes stocks to go down near the end of the year. However, the stocks are driven back up in January when investors buy back the stocks they sold.

All that is left to say is that from myself and all of us at Total Wealth Management we wish you and your family an enjoyable Christmas and a healthy and prosperous New Year.

Paul McLardie is a partner at Total Wealth Manage-ment. Contact him at Paul.mclardie@t-wm.com

Bah HumbugBy Paul Mclardie

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www.ey.comProfessional service firm specializing in advisory, assurance, tax, transactions and strategic growth markets.

Grant ThorntonSaigon Trade Centre, 37 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3910 9100www.gt.com.vnInternational business advisors special-izing in auditing, management consulting, corporate finance, risk management and information technology.

if Consulting IBC Building, 3rd Floor1A Me Linh Square, D1 4th Floor, 5 Ba TrieuHoan Kiem District, HanoiTel: 3827 7362 Fax: 3827 7361Email: pascal@insuranceinvietnam.comPrivate insurance and finance.

indochine CouncelHan Nam Building, 65 Nguyen Du, D1Tel: 3823 9640www.indochinecounsel.comBusiness law firm specializing in legal services to corporate clients in relation to their business and investment in Vietnam.

inspired image42/2A Ho Hao Hon, D1Tel: 091 635 2573www.inspiredimage.co.ukImage consultant and personal stylist. Previous clients include business leaders, TV presenters and busy professionals.

international Management initiative for Vietnam (iMiV)info@imiv.orgwww.imiv.orgThe International Management Initiative for Vietnam (IMIV), a non-profit initiative within VinaCapital Foundation that promotes excellence in business leader-ship and management by bringing to Vietnam proven international executive education and professional development programmes.

Odyssey Resources limited7th floor, Etown 3, 364 Cong Hoa, Tan Binh Tel: 3812 5562 odyssey-resources.comLeading mid-tier accounting services firm in Vietnam. Odyssey provides accounting and management consulting services, along with tax advice and Australian tax agents.

Phuong Nguyen ConsultingTPC Business Center, 92-96 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3829 2391www.pnp-consulting.comSpecializing in business facilitation, conferences, education counselling, market-entry research and IT/business consulting.

Prism information Technology Services Level 4, YOCO Building, 41 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Tel: 3829 6416info@prism.com.vnA foreign-owned information and com-munications technology company that offers value-added IT solutions. Enables local businesses to attain and maintain international IT standards to be more competitive in the marketplace.

Rouse & Co. internationalAbacus Tower, 58 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D1 Tel: 3823 6770www.iprights.comGlobal intellectual property firm providing a full range of IP services including patent and trade mark agency services.

TMf Vietnam Company limited Unit 501, 5th Floor, Saigon Trade Center37 Ton Duc Thang, D1Tel: 3910 2262 ext. 113Fax: 3910 0590www.tmf-group.comWith headquarters in Amsterdam and

Rotterdam, TMF Vietnam specializes in accounting outsourcing and consulting.

Total Wealth Management 66/11 Pham Ngoc Thach, D3Tel: 3820 0623www.t-wm.comSpecialists in selecting and arranging tax-efficient savings and pension plans for expatriates. Offers councel on private banking services, wealth protection in offshore jurisdictions, currency risks and hedging strategies.

Towers Watson Vietnam (formerly Watson Wyatt and SMaRT HR)Sun Wah Tower, 115 Nguyen Hue, Suite 808, D1 Tel: 3821 9488Global HR consulting firm specializing in executive compensation, talent manage-ment, employee rewards and surveys, HR effectiveness and technology, data services and total rewards surveys.

DECORAntique StreetLe Cong Kieu Street, D1 between Nguyen Thai Binh and Pho Duc ChinhA variety of antiques and faux antiques from Thailand, China and Vietnam including silverware, compasses, lighters, brass knockers, urns, vases, abacuses, religious and pagan statues, candlestick holders, furniture and watches.

asian fish34 Mac Thi Buoi, D1Boutique-style arts and crafts store sell-ing locally made gifts and souvenirs, all designed by the Japanese owner. Prod-ucts include clothing, bags, crockery, sandals, chopsticks and jewellery.

Aquarium StreetNguyen Thong Street, D3 between Vo Thi Sau and Ly Chinh ThangDedicated street has everything one needs to display fish: tanks, decor, feed, filters and the fish themselves.

Chau loan213 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3825 7991Gallery based in a colonial shophouse stocking mainly Vietnamese-themed oil paintings and images of Buddha. Also deals in better-known reproductions.

Decosy112 Xuan Thuy, D2 Tel: 6281 9917 Producer of a large selection of European styled furniture and interior fittings, specializing in wrought iron and patine (distressed) wood finishes. Also stocks a wide-range of decorative accessories, crockery and fixtures. Custom design services available upon request.

Dogma175 De Tham, D1 Tel: 3836 0488www.dogmavietnam.comLocated upstairs from Saigon Kitsch, this art gallery deals in Vietnamese propa-ganda posters, apparel, accessories and random paraphernalia. Large prints are sold at USD $60 each and small prints cost $25.

Minh Boutique15 Nguyen Thiep, D1Lacquerware pieces, tea boxes, teapot warmers, ice buckets and sake drinking sets all handmade in Vietnam. Also sells a range of silverware, egg holders and ice tongs.

OUT-2 STUDiOL6 Fafilm annex 6 Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3825 6056STUDIO@OUT-2.comwww.out-2.comStudio space for independent designers to showcas their wares, sell their work and meet with clients. Open Monday t Saturday 10 am to 6 pm.

Phuong Mai213C Dong Khoiwww.phuongmai-gallery.com

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Gallery specializing in original oils by Vietnamese artists. The works here are a mish-mash of styles but do contain some standouts, particularly well-known local artists La Hon, Quy Tam and Pham Trinh.

Vietnam-Quilts64 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 Tel: 3914 2119www.mekong-quilts.orgNGO enterprise specializes in quilts and sells a range of appealing handmade products created by underprivileged women in Binh Thuan Province.

ELECTRONICSHi end audio84 Ho Tung Mau, D1A standout that stocks the very latest and greatest in home entertainment. Retails in everything from giant plasma-screen TVs to audio equipment. Most top brands are available.

iDeaS Shopping Centre133-141AB Cach Mang Thang Tam, D3The largest of the electonics stores along the street, the three-storey iDEAS sells every type of electronic and home appliance imaginable. Offers proper war-ranties. Staff speaks some English.

Nguyen Kim Shopping Centre63-65 Tran Hung Dao, D1 Tel: 3821 1211www.nguyenkim.comStocks DVD/CD players, cameras, TVs, hi-fis and more from Sony, Sanyo, Panasonic, Philips and other major manufacturers. Also a good place to pick up electronic kitchen supplies like coffee makers and rice cookers, as well as large and small appliances, from hot water heaters to regrigerators.

Phong Vu125 Cach Mang Thang Tam, D1Tel: 6290 8777www.vitinphongvu.comTwo-storey electronics store retails in international products conveniently grouped by brand. Carries computers, home audio, printers, hard drives and more, as well as a variety of mobile phones, handheld electronic devices and accessories.

Tech StreetHuynh Thuc Khang Street between Ton That Dam and Nguyen Hue, D1Sells compact discs, DVDs, elec-tronic money counters, video games and systems, Discmans, mp3 players and portable DVD players.

FURNITUREappeal41 Ton That Thiep, D1 Tel: 3821 5258A small, upscale shop that offers modern accents for the sleek dining room. The colours of the over-sized vases and fruit bowls are either glistening red or lacquered black.

austinHome20 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 3519 0023Outstanding quality and style for your home. The shop says its products are hand-picked by an American furniture expert from the best factories in Vietnam. Upholstery, accessories, antiques and more.

Catherine Denoual15C Thi Sach, D1 Tel: 3823 9394Beautiful showroom with clean lines and a sumptuous array of bedroom products including bedside lamps, linens, pillow-cases and duvet covers.

Decosy112 Xuan Thuy, D2 Tel: 6281 9917 Producer of a large selection of European styled furniture and interior fittings, specializing in wrought iron and patine (distressed) wood finishes. Also stocks a wide-range of decorative accessories, crockery and fixtures. Custom design services available upon request.

el Gallery23 Ly Tu Trong, D1 Tel: 3824 8306Traditional decor with a modern twist. Offers a variety of mid- to high-range furniture, rugs, lighting, art and accesso-ries from around the world, plus interior design services. Also imports furniture to Vietnam for export to Europe and the United States.

esthetic11 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh ThanhTel: 3514 7371/7372Fax: 3514 7370esthetic@vnn.vnwww.estheticfurnishing.com.vnDesign and manufacture as order with a mixture of antique and modern furniture. Friendly staff speak excellent English.

furniture Outlet3A Ton Duc Thang, D1Tel: 2243 7955/3911 0104Wide selection of well-crafted and care-fully constructed pine wood pieces at good prices, aimed at customers craving a taste of Europe.

furniture StreetNgo Gia Tu, D10 between Ly Thai To and Nguyen Chi ThanhVery affordable furniture can be found on this stretch: couches, mattresses, desks, chairs, etc. It often takes some looking to find a gem. A connected sidestreet, Ba Hat, features woodwork-ers’ shops.

Gaya1 Nguyen Van Trang, D1 Tel: 3925 1495www.gayavietnam.comFour-floor store featuring the work of foreign designers: home accessories and outdoor furniture by Lawson John-ston, linens by Corinne Leveilley-Dadda, furniture and lighting by Quasar Khanh, laquerware decor by Michele De Albert and furniture and decor by vivekkevin.

linh’s White37 Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 6281 9863Furniture shop that focuses on solid wood furniture and decorative items ranging from pillows and lamps to bedding. Also offers kids’ furniture and custom pieces.

Rare Decor41 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Tel: 3822 2284137/1 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh ThanhTel: 3840 6304/5Leading home furnishings company in Vietnam, supplying high quality, unique products. Also offer custom made furniture, accessories and lighting for commercial projects and home use.

Remix Deco 222 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D3 Tel: 3930 4190www.remixdeco.comBoutique furniture store in sprawling white with modern furniture including sofas, tables and seating from around the world. Featured designers include Le Corbusier, Ray & Charles Eames, Philippe Starck and Ludwig Mies Van der Rhode.

The furniture Warehouse3B Ton Duc Thang, D1Tel: 6657 0788namtran121@yahoo.com, ttpnam@webtnl.comOffers a range of reasonably priced Ital-ian, European and French colonial sofas, indoor/outdoor wooden furniture, lighting and interior décor, as well as custom designs based on clients’ specifications. All at international quality export.

The lost art31 Nguyen Cong Tru, D1Tel: 3829 0134Extensive product range as well as comprehensive interior design service, from initial conceptualization to design, manufacture and installation of unique products.

people matter

Client Management (Part 1)By Gary Woollacott

This month and next I’m going to talk about those people who sometimes drive us crazy but we can’t live without: cli-ents. Clients are the lifeblood of any serious recruitment agency as they are the ones who pay our fees; candidates always get our service and advice for free. Clients typi-cally pay a percentage of the first year’s guaranteed annual gross salary—sometimes we agree on a flat fee—and usu-ally in stages as the search progresses. A common method is to charge one-third of the expected fee on engagement, one-third as the search reaches the short-list stage, and the balance when the candidate signs the contract.

This method has the advantage for retained search firms of giving us the luxury of time to complete the assign-ment with the best candidate, not simply any candidate, as we aren’t in a race to supply resumes. Clients are highly unlikely to retain two search firms for the same job and, anyway, we don’t work in tandem with other firms as the market is simply too small.

What we don’t like at all, though, is a client who prom-ises us exclusivity and then we hear from candidates that another recruitment firm has approached them for the same position. We regard

this behaviour as very poor form and it makes the client look extremely unsophisticat-ed in the marketplace—they don’t even have control of their own recruitment project. For senior level positions, if the same candidate is wooed by different agencies for the same position, this can deter the candidate (even though it might be a great job) as clearly the client can‘t be trusted to keep their word and stick to a contract. Not to mention the lack of confidentiality. Would you want to work for a company like that?

Another thing that strikes us as odd is when clients complain about the low quality of service they have received from contingency (success only) companies. Well of course! If the agency doesn’t get a quick hit and one of their candidates is hired, they may lose interest in that assignment and move on to a more lucrative one. It’s easy to understand why—those agencies are businesses, too. I will write more on this topic next month.

Gary Woollacott is the CEO of Opus executive search in Viet-nam and Thailand. He can be reached at +84 8 3827 8209 or via gary@opusasia.net. Opus is a partner of Horton International.

Thien an furniture 90A Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D1Tel: 3910 5650A range of beautiful furniture with a distinct traditional flavor from colourful silk lampshades, wooden carved beds, screens, chests and more.

Tran Duc Homes 47-49-51 Phung Khac Khoan, D1Tel: 7300 0777B2-25, Vincom Center, 70-72 Le Thanh Ton, D1Tel: 3993 9700 Wood solutions partner for high-end residential and resort projects. Experi-enced in manufacturing and installing wooden modular housing, interior fittings and contemporary indoor and outdoor furniture.

LEGALallens arthur RobinsonSaigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3822 1717www.vietnamlaws.comAustralian law firm for law translation services and legal advice on foreign investment and business in Vietnam.

Baker & McKenzieSaigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3829 5585www.bakernet.comInternational law firm providing on-the-ground liaison and support services to clients interested in investigating, negotiating and implementing projects in Vietnam.

frasers internationalSaigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Tel: 3824 2733www.frasersvn.comFull service commercial law firm providing international and Vietnamese legal advice to both foreign and local clients special-izing in transactions in Vietnam.

indochine CounselHan Nam Building, 65 Nguyen Du, D1 Tel: 3823 9640www.indochinecounsel.comBusiness law practitioners specializing in mergers & acquistions, inward invest-ment, and securities & capital markets.

limcharoen, Hughes and GlanvilleHavana Tower, 132 Ham Nghi, D1 Tel: 6291 7000www.limcharoen.comFull service international law firm with head office in Thailand. Main focus on real estate in Asia.

Phillips foxSaigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3822 1717Full service law firm providing legal services in healthcare, education, crime, banking and hospitality among others.

Pricewaterhousecoopers legalSaigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, D1 Tel: 3823 0796www.pwc.com/vnPart of a network of international legal and financial advisors, PWC gives both specialist and general legal advice with a focus on mutli-territory projects.

Rödl & PartnerSomerset Chancellor Court 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1Tel: 3824 4225www.roedl.comEuropean legal firm assisting foreign investors with structuring/establishing companies, investment projects, and mergers & acquistions.

LIGHTINGlight House92 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D1Tel: 3914 2662Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1Small retail shop is packed with ceiling and wall light fixtures, and a good selec-

tion of desk and ceiling lamps. Most of the stock is decidedlly modern and sleak.

luxury light1483 My Toan 1, Nguyen Van Linh, Phu My Hung, D7For those who really want to bring a touch of luxury to their homes, this place deals with Italian imported lighting from the ultra - modern to the traditional Murano style chandeliers. Extremely expensive reflecting the quality of the design and workmanship.

Mosaique98 Mac Thi Buoi, D1One of the best and most diverse selec-tions of lamps in town with everything from the ordinary decorative lotus silk lamp to more inventive and original designs in lacquer and silk.

Treasure light18A Bis Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Tel: 3822 4315www.treasure-light.comHigh-end lighting shop specialising in fine lacquered lamps. Designs are sophisti-cated and minimilast. Wide selection of table lamps, wall lamps, floor lamps and ceiling lamps.

MOTORBIKESBike City480D Nguyen Thi Thap, D7Luxury motorcycle shop carries a range of accessories, including apparel. Sells Vemar helmets, a brand that passes rigorous European Union standards.

Protec Helmets18bis/3A Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1248C Phan Dinh Phung, Phu Nhuan417B Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D3American nonprofit manufacturer makes helmets with densely compressed poly-styrene shell with ABS, PVC or fiberglass exterior, available with polycarbonate shatter-proof shield. Lots of options for kids.

REAL ESTATEava Residence40/10 Nguyen Van Huong, Thao Dien, D2 Tel: 6281 8440www.avaresidence.comModern serviced apartments located 5 minutes from the British Interna-tional School and Australian International School. Affords a great view over the Saigon River. Many facilities available including a swimming pool, Jacuzzi and gym.

CB Richard ellisMe Linh Point Tower, 2 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 Tel: 3824 6125www.cbre.comInternational property consultants and developers with both commercial and private properties for sale, lease and rent.

Diamond Plaza34 Le Duan StreetTel: 3822 1922lntdung@diamondplaza.com.vnLocated in the heart of District 1, con-nected to Diamond PLaza. Services 1- to 4-bedroom apartments with gym, swimming pool and panoramic views of the city.

easySaigon.comwww.easysaigon.com Real estate website helps expats find apartments in HCMC.

interContinental asiana Saigon ResidencesCorner of Hai Ba Trung & Nguyen Du, D1 Tel: 3520 8888saigon@interconti.comwww.intercontinental.com/saigonresContemporary residential space in the heart of the major business and cultural area in District 1. There are 260 one, two or three-bedroom units plus health club and outdoor swimming pool.

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Namhouse Corporation24 Xuan Thuy, Thao Dien, D2Tel: 0989 007 700, 0989 115 511www.namhouse.com.vnProvides rental properties, construc-tion services and interior decorating. Supports professional services and after-sales.

Thao Dien Village195 Nguyen Van Huong, D2Tel. 3744 2222A riverside complex of international-standard hospitality and F&B outlets with a boutique hotel, four restaurants featuring Italian, Thai, Japanese and Vietnamese cuisine, an event house, meeting rooms and a day spa with well-equipped health-club.

The NestTel: 090 319 8901 (Laurence)Tel: 090 793 3000 (Thuong)laurence@thenest-vietnam.comthuong@thenest-vietnam.comwww.thenest-vietnam.comReal estate agent maintains a well-or-ganized and frequently updated website listing apartments, villas, townhouses condos and offices. Renters/buyers can receive regular updates via email. Platinum1Star Building, 33 Mac Dinh Chi, D1Tel: 3911 8193www.platinum1corp.comYour one-stop agency for housing and office space in the city with pre-viewing selection before the visit and full support throughout your lease.

Riverside apartments53 Vo Truong Toan, D2 Tel: 3744 4111www.riverside-apartments.comOne of the first luxury serviced apartments in town located next to the Saigon River set in lush tropical gardens.

Saigon PropertiesGround floor, 15-1A Le Thanh Ton, D1Tel: 3823 7502 or 0903 946 517www.saigonproperties.comReal estate company with 15 years of experience. Provides various services including leasing and sales, property management, interior design and spe-cializes in investment properties.

Saigon Village523 To Hien Thanh, D10 Tel: 3865 7249www.saigonvillage.vnn.vnFully furnished villas and apartments in a tranquil, leafy complex cordonned off from the pressures of HCMC.

Savills Viet NamLevel 18, Fideco Tower, 81-85 Ham Nghi, D1 Tel: 823 9205www.savills.com.vnSavills Viet Nam is a property service provider that has been established in Vietnam since 1995 offering research, advisory services, residential sales, commercial leasing, asset management, retail advisory, valuation, investment advisory and more.

Sherwood Residence127 Pasteur St., D3Tel: 3823 2288Fax: 3823 9880Hotline: 0917470058leasing@sherwoodresidence.comwww.sherwoodresidence.comSherwood Residence is a luxury serviced apartment property and the first property certified by the Vietnam National Admin-istration of Tourism. Modern living spaces meet prime location, comfort and class with 5-star facilities and service.

SnapTel: 0989 816 676www.snap.com.vnOnline Real Estate service providing in-formation on rental properties exclusively in District 2. Full listings online.

RECRUITMENTfirst alliances#609, Saigon Trade Center37 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3910 2080 Fax: 3910 2079www.firstalliances.netcv@firstalliances.netAs Vietnam’s most established recruit-ment consultancy, First Alliances oper-ates across all major industry sectors and at all levels of seniority. Also provid-ing HR outsourcing solutions for staffing and payroll,overseas employment and education services.

HR2B / Talent Recruitment JSCThien Son Building, 5 Nguyen Gia Thieu, D3 Tel: 3930 8800www.hr2b.comHR consulting advises businesses on how to improve employee productivity. The search team specializes in matching senior level Vietnamese professionals and managers to top level opportunities in both major cities.

Navigos Group130 Suong Nguyet Anh, D1 Tel: 3825 5000www.navigosgroup.comRecruitment agency offering a complete portfolio of HR services including executive search, HR advisory, training, online recruitment, and print recruitment advertising.

Opus Vietnam2A Rolanno Offices, 128 Nguyen Phi Khanh, D1 Tel: 3827 8209www.opusasia.netEstablished in HCMC in 2005, Opus services local and multinational com-panies seeking to recruit high quality personnel. An Associate of Horton International, one of the world’s leading search groups with over 30 offices worldwide. For more info contact info@opusasia.net.

Smart HRCapital Place Building, Suite 601, 6 Thai Van Lung, D1 Tel: 3823 5828www.smarthrvietnam.comHuman resource consultants specialis-ing in job search and selection, and human resource management.

TMf VietnamSaigon Trade Center, Unit 2811, 37 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Tel: 3910 9229 / 9222hang.bui@tmf-group.comwww.tmf-group.comWith more than 3,300 profession-als working out of 86 offices in 65 countries, TMF provides independent accounting and corporate secretarial services to companies worldwide.

Vietnamworks.com130 Suong Nguyet Anh, D1Tel: 5404 1373www.vietnamworks.comExcellent section on advice for jobseek-ers focusing on topics such as resume writing, cover letters, interview tech-nique and more.

RELOCATION AGENTSallied PickfordsSatra Building, Room 202, 58 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 08 3823 3454Kevin.hamilton@alliedpickfords.com.vnhttp://vn.alliedpickfords.comMoving and relocating services com-pany specializing in business and office moves. Overseas and specialist movers also available.

asian Tigers Transpo internationalRoom 201 and 202, 216 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D3 Tel: 3930 9484Tel: 3945 0891matt.king@asiantigers-vietnam.comwww.asiantigersgroup.comInternational moving agency, home-search, orientation, settling in programs and work permit assistance.

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Crown Worldwide Movers48A Huynh Man Dat, Binh Thanh Tel: 3823 4127www.crownrelo.comInternational moving company serving diplomats and private customers, employees and expats, providing domestic and iternational transporta-tion of household, office and industrial goods.

UTS Saigon Van intl’ RelocationsHUD Buillding, Unit 1303, 159 Dien Bien Phu, Binh Thanh Tel: 3840 3629 www.saigonvan.comFull service relocating agency with warehousing, handyman, insurance & claim, orientation an partner career support services also availble.

JVK international MoversSaigon Port Building, 3 Nguyen Tat Thanh, D4 Tel: 3826 7655/6chris.honour@jvkasia.com www.jvk.comInternational agengy with a full range of services including sea/air freight ser-vices and worldwide transit coverage.

Mekong emerald (MeK) Relocation68 Huynh Khuong Ninh, D1Tel: 09800 1509www.mekongem.comFull range of services including pet move/care, car rental, pre-move consultation, cross-cultural training and visa/immigration support.

Resident Vietnam187/9/1 Bach Dang Street, Tan Binh Tel: 3848 8443 / 3848 8285www.residentvietnam.comSpecializes in immigration manage-ment, destination services and cross-cultural training and car leasing assistance.

Santa fe Relocation ServicesThien Son Building, 5 Nguyen Gia

Thieu, D3 Tel: 3933 0065www.santaferelo.comProvides a range of services including home/school search, language/cultural training, tenancy management and immigration/visa support.

UniGroup Worldwide UTS Vietnam440/26A Tran Hung Dao, D5Tel: 3836 3002www.unigroupworldwide.comGlobal mobility company offering international corporate relocations, settling-in assistance and cross-cultural training.

STATIONERYCustom Signage StreetLe Lai, D1 between Truong Dinh and Nguyen Thai HocOffers custom-designed signs and custom engraving on trophies and plaques made of plastic, wood, metal and glass.

Fahasa40 Nguyen Hue, D1 Tel: 3822 5796Bookstore chain carries an expansive stock of office and home stationary; a one-stop shop for basic needs.

Pi-Channel45B Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3822 0253www.pi-channel.comBoutique shop carries up-market collections of pens and notepads, as well as desktop organisers, clocks, calendars and frames. Corporate services offered.

Stationary and Printing StreetLy Thai To Street, D3 starting at Dien Bien Phu and running southeastMore than 25 stores providing photo-copying services, from business cards to flyers and colour prints to invitations.

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femme fashion

The fashion monster grew within me at an early age, you see. I remember turning a Fido Dido for 7Up t-shirt into a tasseled sleeveless number reminiscent of Wham!’s ‘Wake Me Up Before You Go Go’. I even painted in the tassels with a variety of coloured markers Boy George would’ve been proud of.

In my teens, my hunger for fashion became almost addictive. Realising the only financial worry I had was pet-rol money and the odd mobile phone bill here and there, the rest of my meager income was spent on anything that was hot that month.

As we grow up and more responsibilities present them-selves, things that we took for granted, such as fashion, suddenly become a luxury. Designer jeans eventually become 501s and we find ourselves opting for comfort over trends. But comfort doesn’t necessarily need to be unfashionable.

Although I’m no longer making George Michael tribute items and buying overpriced designer jeans, I’ve found HCM City to be an amazing place for DIY fashionistas. One can get suits, shirts, dresses, hats and even shoes custom made at a fraction of the cost of retail.

Since relocating my work to around Ben Thanh Market, I’ve discovered some wonder-ful places that make quality

items at amazingly affordable prices.

One of the most popular choices of things to get cus-tom made is business attire. Dung Tailor (221 Le Thanh Ton) is well known for produc-ing fashionable work clothes, at around US $15 a shirt/skirt, and cheaper if you order in bulk or have your own fabric. Suits for both men and ladies are around $250 (including fabric)—I’ve made quite a few here and the tailoring is exquisite.

Kenly Silk (132 Le Thanh Ton), also near Ben Thanh Market, makes all things silk including beautifully modern western influenced tunics (áo dài) surprisingly affordable—around $100. They have their own silk prints, which you can mix and match with designs they already have.

At 95 Le Thanh Ton is a little leather goods store that’s been around for nearly two decades specialising in hand-crafted shoes, belts and wal-lets for both men and women. The quality in craftsmanship is superb. I’ve brought in a few of my vintage shoes to be replicated and I haven’t even worn them. I just keep them on the shelf to stare at them!

A little tip: whatever you decide to make or reproduce, having a sample (or at least a picture) makes the job a lot simpler. Add a few of your personal touches and be surprised at the results!

Ben Thanh FashionistaBy Khoi Nguyen

ACCESSORIESaccessorize48 Dong Du, D1, Tel: 3822 1081Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1www.monsoon.co.uk/icat/accessorizeFashion-forward accessories including necklaces, handbags, wallets, flip-flops, sunglasses, hair accessories, belts and more.

alfred DunhillDiamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1A timeless style in male luxury providing formal and casual mens accesories tailored for the discerning man. Also stocking handcrafted leather goods.

anupa Boutique17/27 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3825 7307anupaboutiquevietnam@anupa.netThe ever-changing boutique retails in the elegant design of anupa accessories made from high-quality leather. Collections avail-able range from men, women, executive, travel, spa, yoga, board games, boxes and semi-precious stone jewellery. Collection changes on weekly basis. Also carries toys, stationery, Unitdot Bamboo eye wear, Ella Charlotte scarves and ladies' apparel brand Things of Substance.

BallyRex Hotel, 141 Nguyen Hue, D1 Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1www.experience.bally.comFlagship store in the Rex Hotel providing luxury Italian-made accessories for men. Among these are shoes, belts, wallets and a collection of male jewellery.

Banana128 Ly Tu Trong, D1Women’s accessories and more, from bags, clutches and belts to clothes and jewellery, all at reasonable prices.

CartierDiamond Plaza, 34 Le DuanThis well-known designer brand displays a wide range of accessories for men. Famous for its watches, Cartier also stocks pens, key rings, belts and sunglasses.

Cincinati177P Dong Khoi, D1www.cincinati.vninfo@cincinati.vnVietnamese brand of genuine leather bags, shoes, accessories and personal goods for men and women such as notebooks for a classic vagabond look. Quality leather from crocodile, horse, snake and fish made with excellent local craftsmanship.

Cleo-Pearls30 Nguyen Dang Giai, An Phu, D2Tel: 091 3587 690Jewellery designer Birgit Maier operates Cleo-Pearls from her home, specializing in necklaces, bracelets, earrings, key holders and bag accessories. All pieces created with gemstones, fresh water pearls and beads.

Coconut100 Mac Thi Buoi, D1Bags of all shapes and sizes rule the roost in this small shop. Made of silk and embroidered to the brim, these unique bags start at about USD $30, and many are suitable for both day and night.

fashion

listingsCreation105 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3829 5429A two-storey shop selling scarves, intricate handbags (from USD $30), tailor-made silk dresses and tops. Has a wide range of ma-terials on the second floor. Prices start from $65 for an ao dai with simple embroidery.

Gallery vivekkevinFAFILM Building, 6 Thai Van Lung, D1Tel: 6291 3709info@vivekkevin.com www.galeryvivekkevin.comHandcrafted pendants, necklaces, rings and bracelets. The gallery’s focus is on design, craftsmanship and finish, as well as educating clients on the intricacies of each piece.

Gucci88 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 6688Located on the main shopping street in HCMC, this flagship store brings Florentine fashion to an array of luxury leather goods such as briefcases, luggage and a selection of men’s shoes for office or more casual occasions.

ipa-Nima85 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3824 3652New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai Well-known Hanoi-based fashion brand. Founder Christina Yu is a former lawyer turned designer who produces eclectic and eye-catching handbags. Also stocks costume jewellery and shoes.

J. Silver803 Nguyen Van Linh Parkway, D7Tel: 5411 1188Make a statement without being ostenta-tious with handcrafted silver jewellery from the boutique store. Expect big, interesting pieces that are simple yet glamorous.

laura V Signature11 Dong Du, D1Tel: 7304 4126www.laurav.netVintage designs aplenty with everything from jewellery and hair accessories to funky styled sunglasses, umbrellas and colourful maxi dresses.

louis VuittonOpera View, corner of Dong Khoi and Le Loi Tel: 3827 6318Designer brand name housing traditional craftsmanship of luxury leather goods for men and women. An array of bags, wallets, cuff links and watches are available.

Mai O Mai4C Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3829 4007A superb little place with beautiful jewellery and accessories to suit all budgets. Silver necklaces, bracelets, rings and more in both classic and imaginative designs, as well as gorgeous hand-embroidered bags.

Mont BlancDiamond Plaza, 34 Le DuanNotable for fine writing instruments, Mont Blanc also houses cuff links and other male accessories

ScorpionVincom Center B1, 70 - 72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Tel: 3993 9889www.scorpionbag.comSelling high-end leather products for both men and women, including shoes, handbags, belts and other accessories. Features a variety of leather in bright colors and styles.

Tic Tac Watch Shop72 Dong Khoi Tel: 0838 293519www.tictacwatch.comElegant show room displaying some of the world’s most recognized Swiss brands such as Rolex, Tag Huer, Baume & Marcer, Omega and Hirsch. On-site watch repair service and complementary watch evalua-tion available. Also carries a small collection of vintage Rolexes.

Tombo145 Dong Khoi, D1Of all the embroidered and sequined bags,

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shoes and tidbits (or “Zakka” shops) that can be found in Dong Khoi, this shop’s has products that are prettier than most. Shoes can be custom-made and the sales staff is friendly.

Umbrella35 Ly Tu Trong, D1 and 4 Le Loi, D1Tel: 6276 2730www.umbrella-fashion.comSophisticated boutique showcasing a diverse range of imported women’s accessories. Also houses women’s gar-ments from office wear to cocktail and party creations.

ACTIVE WEARChina Beach Surf ClubDiamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1Stocks famous surf and surf-inspired brands like Reef, Rip Curl and men’s wear from Volcom. It has everything you’d need for a visit to the beach and more. There are string bikinis, tees, board shorts, caps and thongs, just to name a few.

PinkoRex Hotel, 146-148-150 Pasteur, D1Tel: 3827 2240Spacious and simple store displaying women’s sportswear imported from Hong Kong and China. Body lotion and perfume imported from America.

Roxy and QuiksilverParkson Plaza, 39-45 Le Thanh Ton, D1The original active living and extreme sports brands, Roxy and Quiksilver products combine form and function. Choose from outdoor gear to cool indoor clothes.

TBS Sports Centre102 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu NhuanThis store stocks a range of good sports clothes and equipment from big name brands such as Puma, Adidas, Ecco, Nike and Converse. Volcom Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 Chic and funky ladies’ apparel brand from America. Lots of tank tops, minis and shorts for day tripping with girl-friends or lazing on the beach.

READY TO WEARunisex 2bling246 Huynh Van Banh, Phu NhuanSpecializes in urban streetwear, with a range of t-shirts, sneakers, baseball caps, hoodies and more. Tees are both imported from around Asia and designed in-house.

BAM Skate Shop174 Bui Vien, D1 Tel: 0903 641 826In addition to a range of decks, wheels and trucks, this small shop is stocked

with bookbags, skate sneakers, track jackets and t-shirts emblazoned with your skateboard company of choice.

Bo Sua local StreetwearVincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1Tel: 3993 9599www.bosua.vnAn offshoot of the Boo street-style skater fashion brand made popular in Hanoi, this brand translated as “Cow Milk” features fun colourful t-shirts, women’s casual wear and sneakers that celebrate the quirky street life of Vietnam.

“ello263 Huynh Van Banh, Phu NhuanThis tiny little shop on Phu Nhuan’s hipster fashion strip is stocked with some of the coolest trend items in HCMC. Carries a frequently refreshed selection of T-shirts, skinny pants and women’s tops.

FCUK127 Le Thanh Ton, D1Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1Tel: 3914 7740www.frenchconnection.comTrendy UK brand with a selection of fashion-forward dresses for women and smart workwear and funky casual wear for men, all at middle-market prices.

levi’s flagship Store19–21 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3500 1501The 320-square-metre retail space spread over three levels offers the city’s largest and most exclusive collection of Levi’s bottoms, tops and accessories.

l’Usine151/1 Dong Khoi, D1Lifestyle store and cafe housed in a period building restored to evoke the aesthetic of an early 20th-century garment factory. Car-ries an exclusive, frequently refreshed line of imported men’s and women’s fashion, including T-shirts and footwear, and a range of unique accessories. Entrance via the street-level Art Arcade.

Replay Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1116 Nguyen Trai, D1187 Hai Ba Trung, D3Tel: 3925 0252Wide variety of shoes, clothing, denim for teens and university-age men and women. Carries boots, sandals, pumps and sneak-ers at mid-range prices.

RunwayVincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1Tel: 3993 9988runway.sg@global-fashion.vnMassive and minimalist design-led interior lets ultra high-end designer garments stand out. Carries men's, women's and children’s clothing, swimwear, shoes, accessories along with home décor. Brands include

112 Xuan ThuyWard Thao DienDistrict 2Ho Chi Minh City

Tel/Fax. (+84) 8 62.819.917shop-hcm@decosy.biz

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style for gents

Most men love to be sur-prised for Christmas. We don’t like to be asked what we want or what we need. We might say, “I don’t need anything,” or, “please don’t go for the striped sweater I never wear and that I already have five of from my aunt.” Men like to feel that our girl-friends or wives think about us and about our tastes and hobbies rather than trying to give us a tie when we never wear a tie.

A safe, reliable option is to check the shaving, washing and perfume products we use and replace them with a voucher for a very good men’s spa to receive a treat-ment or purchase grooming products. Buying us our favourite perfume/eau de cologne works, too.

The second option is to buy something we can use for our hobbies. It could be anything related to our beloved leisure time: new golf gloves, shoes or a set of clubs. If your man likes wine, a set of premium crystal wine glasses paired with the most appropriate wine for each glass is a perfect choice.

Electronic gadgets make great presents, too, especially if your beau is into the latest in technology. Be careful, though, as giving a Play Sta-

tion or an IPhone can easily mean losing our attention to our new toy.

Finally, the most com-mon—and always inter-esting—option is to go for clothes and accessories. We like receiving a touch of the latest fashion trend that we normally do not get if we are not in the industry.

In Barcelona one of the most popular gifts for men during Christmas are shirts because every men needs shirts—for business, leisure or special upcoming events. And when our girl is tak-ing care of it, we feel free knowing we can go later and change it for a model we fancy more or get the proper size if she did not get it at first. As a gift, a shirt should usually cost about US $40 for a decent one to over US $200 for premium brands or high-end shirts.

In any case, vouchers are never recommended if they do not come along with a physical small gift. Remember that, in any case, the packag-ing and surprise makes 50 % of any present. Merry Christmas!

Nacho Navarro is co-founder of Santo Nero®, an Italian exclusive brand for gents. 23 Ly Tu Trong, District 1.

What do Men Like for Christmas By Nacho Navarro

Chloe, Marc Jacobs, Balenciaga, Sergio Rossi and Eres.

Versace26 Dong KhoiDesigner brand in men’s formal wear. Houses suit jackets and trousers, shirts as well as an array of men’s accessories. Also stocks womens clothing and shoes.

VOVSaigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1403 Huynh Van Banh, Phu Nhuanwww.vovietchung.comRetail base for Vo Viet Chung, one of Vietnam’s best-known designers. VOV is known for blending traditional form with contemporary cuts, colours and textures.

menlucas69A Ly Tu Trong, D1 Tel: 3827 9670Fashion store housing contemporary designs in casual, office and evening wear imported from Hong Kong.

Massimo ferrari 42-A1 Tran Quoc Thao, D3Tel: 3930 6212Bespoke menswear shop also boasts its own brand of contemporary preppy attire tailored for the tropics. Carries a line of European-quality shoes, bags and accesso-ries designed in-house, as well as exclusive Orobianco unisex bags, designer fragrances and eyewear.

Mattre19 Nguyen Trai, D1 Tel: 3925 3412This local men’s clothes shop has some funky tops and jeans for more fashion-forward males. Apparel in sizes that fit the typical Western man’s frame are often available. Another store is located on Hai Ba Trung and Ly Tu Trong

Milano Sheraton Hotel, 88 Dong Khoiwww.milanogoods.com A conjoining shop with D&G offering a selec-tion of men’s shoes and accessories with a sideline in women’s clothing. D&G provides a collection of menswear, from casual jeans and T-shirts to uniquely designed suit jackets.

Mizada150 Ly Tu Trong, D1 Tel: 3822 2508mizada07@yahoo.com An A-to-Z collection of men’s clothing with an influx of new fashion arriving on the racks regularly. Carries smart, casual shirts, trousers, jeans and jackets, as well as bags and scarves.

New Urban Male226 Ly Tu Trong, D1 Tel: 3824 4416www.newurbanmale.comCaters to a wide range of consumer tastes from beach duds to streetwear. The goods include international men’s brands such as Havaianas, C-IN2, Jabs Waterboys, Rebel Jeans and aussieBum. Also carries men’s grooming products.

Santo Nero23 Ly Tu Trong, D1shophcmc@santonero.com The concept shop is the first real Italian shop in HCM City. Santo Nero offers Exclu-sive Italian Men's Wear, specialising in Italian shirts for any occasion. Clothes boast the best 100% cotton and fine fabrics imported from Italy, Switzerland and Japan. Exclusive accessories are also available here. Open: 9 am until 9 pm, 7 days a week.

TimberlandParkson Plaza, 39-45 Le Thanh Ton, D1Sells everything the brand is known for, from heavy-duty boots to tops and trousers that are both smart and casual. The emphasis is on muted tones and unobtrusive logos for men who don’t like to show off.

womenaxaraVincom Center B1, 70 - 72 Le Thanh

Ton, D1Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 21 Nguyen Trai, D1Tel: 3993 9399www.axara.comCarries women’s clothing suitable for work, weekends or evening. Luxurious fabrics and simple cuts and styles all at reasonable prices. Also carries handbags and acces-sories.

BalenciagaRex Hotel, 155 Nguyen Hue Tel: 6291 3572Sporting modern shapes and elegant items crafted from natural, raw and artificial materials.

BCBGMAXAZRIA Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1American brand sells women’s day dresses and tops, evening gowns and wear-to-work attire in many prints and colours. Also carries a small selection of accessories, sunglasses and watches.

BebeSaigon Center, 65 Le Loi, D1Tel: 3914 4011www.bebe.comAn international brand that specializes in contemporary, modern tees and sexy, elegant dresse, tops and party attire.

Bon Mua Boutique Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1Tel: 3993 9888www.itamoda.com.vnLuxury women’s clothing store with racks organized by designer. Carries small col-lection of unique pieces from designers such as Jean Paul Gaultier, Alberta Fer-retti, Blumarine, Valentino, Philosophy and Brunello Cucinelli.

ChloeRex Hotel, 155 Nguyen Hue, D1Tel: 6291 3582Parisian-influenced fashion house special-izes in simple, traditional designs with a feminine and fashionable twist. Jeans, satin dresses and a wide array of accessories are on display.

esprit58 Dong Khoi, D1Outpost for the international brand of colour-ful, preppy men’s and women’s casual wear.

etam188 Hai Ba Trung, D1Famous all over the world for their French style. There’s a large range of shirts, T-shirts, dresses and more. Also available in Zen Plaza and Diamond Plaza.

Gaya1 Nguyen Van Trang, D1 Tel: 3925 1495Carries a range of couture and pret-a-porter garments and silk and organza dresses in vibrant colours created by Cambodia-based designer Romyda Keth.

Geisha Boutique85 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3829 4004enquiry@geishaclothing.comFacebook: Geisha BoutiqueAustralian fashion label offering a contempo-rary range of casual and evening wear with an Asian influence. Printed tees, singlets, shorts, skirts, jeans, summer scarves, dresses, silk camisoles and satin maxi dresses.

KookaiSaigon Centre, 65 Le LoiFrench brand stocking classic, feminine, styles with a twist. Gypsy day dresses and classic little black dresses at mid- to high-range prices are perfect for twenty- and thirty-something women.

la Senza47B–47C Nguyen Trai, D1Tel: 3925 170065 Le Loi, Saigon Centre, D1 Tel: 3914 4328www.lasenza.comBoutique carrying a wide range of bras,

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panties, pyjamas, accessories and lounge wear.

labella85-87 Pasteur, D1This three-storey shop will take care of all your wardrobe needs: affordable clothes, shoes, bags and lingerie, all well made and fashionable.

le Samedi21 Nguyen Trai, D1 Tel: 3925 5013Boutique retailing in clothes imported mainly from Italy and France, from cocktail dresses to chiffon skirts.

Lulu Lacywww.lululacy.comBoutique label featuring retro designs in high-quality fabrics. Website frequently re-freshed with latest offerings, including maxi-dresses, tailored blouses and shorts. Shop online or request a party at your house.

Mai lam132-134 Dong Khoi, D1 Tel: 3827 2733www.mailam.com.vnBoutique store housing an eclectic mix of vintage designer clothes and accessories made in Vietnam. Specializing in hand-sewn, multi-dimensional embroidery, the re-design of the traditional ao dai and an army vintage collection.

Mango96 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tel: 3824 6624Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1A favourite with fashion-conscious women, this mid-range store stocks clothes from simple tees and jeans to evening wear.

Marc JacobsRex Hotel, 155 Nguyen Hue , D1Tel: 6291 3580This spacious shop with high-ceilings car-ries up-market clothes, shoes and acces-sories from the internationally recognized designer brand.

Muse BoutiqueSaigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1Boutique store carries well-known interna-tional brands like Miss Sixty, BCBG, Rock Republic, True Religion, Tbags and Killah.

SongSaigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D176D Le Thanh TonOffers women’s fashion designs by Valerie Gregori McKenzie, including evening dress, tops and hats.

ValencianiSaigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1Tel: 3821 278866-68 Nguyen Trai, D1 Tel: 7302 4688valenciani.sg@gmail.comwww.valenciani.com Homegrown luxury boutique carries silk dresses, velvet corsets, chiffon shawls and a range of accessories, all designed in-house.

SHOESCharles & Keith10 Mac Thi Buoi, 18-20 Nguyen TraiTel: 3925 1132Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton, D1www.charleskeith.comSingapore brand housing youthful and trendy shoes of a contemporary, high fashion design.

Converse 186 Hai Ba Trung, D1148 Nguyen Trai, D1122 Ba Thang Hai, D10 Tel: 3827 5584www.converse.com.vnSells iconic Chuck Taylor, Jack Purcell and All-Star sneakers and Converse brand clothing and accessories. Also at depart-ment stores around HCMC.

Dr. Marten’s173 Hai Ba Trung, D3 Tel: 3822 4710Air Wair sandals and shoes here feature the classic yellow stitching and chunky rubber soles. Also stocked with clothes and accessories by Replay and Kappa tracksuit tops.

Sergio Rossi146AB Pasteur, D1Rex Hotel, 141 Nguyen Hue, D1World-renowned Italian brand stocks a diverse European-style collection of up-market shoes and bags made of quality materials, from crocodile and python skin laterals to garnishings of Swarovski crystals and colourful beads.

TAILORSDieu Thanh 140 Pasteur, D1 Tel: 3824 5851www.dieuthanh.comExperienced tailor shop specializes in swimwear and cotton clothing, as well as business suits, evening dresses, luxury fabrics and accessories.

Dzung221 Le Thanh Ton, D1One of the most reliable and respected men’s tailors in town with prices and production time to reflect the quality of the workmanship. Shirts start from US $30.

Massimo ferrari 42-A1 Tran Quoc Thao, D3Tel: 3930 6212Traditional Italian sartorial techniques are employed to offer a full wardrobing service and custom tailoring for men. Stocked with imported fabrics primarily from Italy. In-office and workplace fittings available.

Uyen13 Nguyen Thiep, D1An excellent option with English-speaking staff and a good selection of fabrics (although the price takes a dip if you bring your own) and some off-the-rack staples to copy. Reasonable prices.

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Hanoi13 Hang BacHoan Kiem

Tel 04 3926 4831

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3 Thang 2 D1Alexandre de Rhodes C4Ba Huyen Thanh Quan C1, C2, D2, D3Ban Co D1Ben Chuong Duong E4Ben Van Don E4, E5Bui Thi Xuan D3Bui Vien E3Cach Mang Thang Tam C1, D2, D3Calmette E4Cao Ba Nha E3Cao Thang D1, D2, E2Chu Manh Trinh C4, C5Co Bac E3Co Giang E3De Tham E3Dien Bien Phu B4, C3, C2, D1, D2Dinh Cong Trang B3Dinh Tien Hoang B3, B4, C4Do Quang Dau E3Do Thanh D1Doan Nhu Hai E5Doan Van Bo E4, E5Dong Du D5Dong Khoi C4, D4, D5Hai Cua B5Huynh Tinh Cua B2Huynh Van Banh B1Khanh Hoi E4Ky Con B3, C3, C4, D5Hai Trieu C5Ham Nghi D4, C5Han Thuyen C4Ho Hao Hon E3Ho Huan Nghiep D5Ho Tung Mau D4, D5Ho Xuan Huong C3, D2Hoa Hung B1Hoang Dieu E4, E5Hung Vuong E1Huyen Tran Cong Chua D3Huynh Man Dat B5Huynh Thuc Khang D4Ky Dong C1, C2Le Cong Kieu D4Le Duan C4, C5Le Hong Phong D1Le Lai C3, C4, D3Le Loi D4Le Quoc Hung E4, E5Le Quy Don C3Le Thanh Ton C4, C5, D3, D4Le Thi Hong Gam D4, E3, E4Le Thi Rieng D3Le Van Phuc B3Le Van Sy C1, C2Luong Huu Khanh D2, E2Luu Van Lang D4Ly Chinh Thang B2, C2Ly Thai To E1Ly Tu Trong C4, C5, D4, D5Mac Dinh Chi B3, C4Mac Thi Buoi D5Mai Thi Luu B4Mai Van Ngoc B1Me Linh B5Nam Ky Khoi Nghia B2, C2, C3, D4, E4Ngo Duc Ke D5Ngo Thoi Nhiem C2, D2Ngo Van Nam C5Nguyen Binh Khiem B4, B5, C5Nguyen Cong Tru E4Nguyen Cu Trinh E2, E3Nguyen Dinh Chieu B4, C3, C4, D1, D2, D3Nguyen Dinh Chinh B1

Nguyen Du C4, D3, D4Nguyen Hai Tu B4Nguyen Hue D4, D5Nguyen Huu Canh B2Nguyen Huu Canh C5Nguyen Huu Cau B3Nguyen Khac Nhu E3Nguyen Khoai F3Nguyen Ngoc Phuong B5Nguyen Phi Khanh B3Nguyen Sieu C5, D5Nguyen Son Ha D2 Nguyen Tat Thanh E5Nguyen Thai Binh D4, E4Nguyen Thai Hoc D3, E3, E4Nguyen Thi Dieu D2, D3Nguyen Thien Thuat D1, E1, E2Nguyen Thong C1, C2, D2Nguyen Thuong Hien D2Nguyen Trai D3, E2Nguyen Trung Ngan C5Nguyen Trung Truc D4Nguyen Truong To E4, E5Nguyen Van Cu E2Nguyen Van Hai B3Nguyen Van Lac B5Nguyen Van Thu B4, C3, C4Nguyen Van Troi B1Pasteur C2, C3, C4, D4Pham Hong Thai D2, D3Pham Ngoc Thach C3Pham Ngu Lao D3, D4, E3Pham Viet Chanh B5Pham Viet Chanh E2Phan Dinh Phung B2Phan Ke Binh B4Phan Van Han B4, B5Pho Duc Chinh D4, E4Phung Khac Khoan C3, C4Suong Nguyet Anh D2, D3Tan Vinh E4Thach Thi Thanh B3Thai Van Lung C5Thi Sach C5Thu Khoa Huan D4Ton Duc Thang C5, D4, D5, E4Ton That Dam D4Ton That Thiep D4Ton That Tung D2, D3Tran Binh Trong E1Tran Canh Chan E2Tran Cao Van C4Tran Dinh Xu E2, E3Tran Hung Dao D4, E2, E3Tran Khac Chan B3Tran Khanh Du B2, B3Tran Minh Quyen D1Tran Minh Quyen C1Tran Nhan Ton E1Tran Nhat Duat B3Tran Phu E1Tran Quang Dieu B1, B2Tran Quang Khai B3, B2Tran Quoc Thao C2, C3Tran Quoc Toan B2, B3, B2Tran Van Dang C1, C2Truong Chinh C3Truong Dinh C2, D3Tu Xuong C2, C3, D2Vinh Khanh E4, E5Vo Thi Sau B3, C2, C3Vo Van Tan C3, D2, D3Vuon Chuoi D2Xo Viet Nghe Tinh B4, B5Yersin E4

Street Guide

Central

Post Of�ce

Re-uni�cationPalace

HTVtelevision

Town

Hall

Bus

Station

Ton

Duc

Than

g M

useu

m

Hoa LuStadium

VuonChuoi

Market

WarRemnantsMuseum

Lan AnhSports & Leisure Club

SaigonTrain Station

Teacher

Training

University

Universi

ty

of Natu

ral

Science

s

Thai Binh

Market

Cultural Park

Le V

an Ta

m

Park

Zoo & Botanical

Gardens

Thu ThiemFerry Port

(for District 2)

Vung Tau

Saigon South4km

District 7& Nha Be

District 112km

Cho LonMarket

Tan Binh0.5km

Saigon Bridge& Highway 1

3km

Cat Lai Ferry9km

Ben

Thanh

Market

Cach Mang Thang Tam

Ham Nghi

Le Loi

Nguyen Hue

Pham Hong Thai

Nguyen Van CuTra

n PhuHung Vuong

An Duong Vuong

Le Hong Phong

3 Thang 2

Vo Thi Sau

Vo Thi Sau

Hai Ba Trung

Nguyen Thi Minh Khai

Dien B

ien P

hu

Dien Bien Phu

Nguyen Van Troi

Nam Ky Khoi Nghia

Nam Ky Khoi Nghia

Le Duan

Le Duan

Nguyen Binh Khiem

Nguyen Binh Khiem

Nguyen Huu C

anh

Ly Thai To

Ly C

hinh

Th

ang

Nguyen Tat Thanh

Nguyen Thai H

oc

Xo Viet Nghe Tinh

Ton Duc Thang

Dinh Tien Hoang

Cach Mang Thang Tam

Tra

n Hung D

ao

Tra

n Hung D

ao

Tran Hung Dao

Bui Vien

De ThamD

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Nguyen Trai

Ngu

yen

Trai

Nguyen Trai

Le Lai

Pham Ngu Lao

Co BacNg Kh Nhu

Cao Ba N

ha

Tran Dinh Xu

Chua Phat An

Pham Viet Chanh

Luong Huu Khanh

Ton That Tung

Le Thi RiengSuong Nguyet A

nh

Nguyen Trung Truc

Thu Kh Huan

Huyen Tran Cong Chua

Dong KhoiPasteur

Pham Ngoc Thach

Le Loi

Ton Th at Thiep

T. T. Dam

Duc Ke

Ngo

Hai Trieu

Thi Buoi

Mac

Dong Du

Nghiep

H.H.

Thai Van Lung

Ng Sieu

Cao Ba Quat

Thi Sach

Co Giang

Le Thi Hong Gam

Nguyen Thai Binh

Pho Duc Chinh

Ky Con

Chu Manh Trinh

Ngo Van Nam

Mac Dinh Chi

Nguyen Dinh Chieu

Nguyen Van Thu

Phan Ke Binh

Mai Thi Luu

Tran Quang Khai

Ng. Phi KhanhL. V. Phuc

Ng. Huu C

au

Thach Thi Thanh

D. C. Trang

Tran Khanh Du

Vo Van Tan

Vo Van Tan

Nguyen Thi

DieuNgo Thoi

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hiemBa Huyen Thanh Quan

Nguyen Thong

Nguyen Th

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Tran Quoc Thao

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Truong Quyen

Tran Minh Quyen

Tran Van Dang

Tran Q

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Tran Q

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Hoang Sa

Huynh Van Banh Nguyen Ngoc Phuong Hu

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Huynh Tinh Cua

N. V. H

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Pham Van Han

Ng. Thuong Hien

V. Chuoi

Do Th

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Nguyen Thien Thuat

Nguyen Son Ha

Tran Minh Quyen

Tran Binh Trong

Tran Binh Trong

Tran N

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Ton

Hu

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Nguyen B

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Hoa Hung

Hoang Dieu

Ben Van Don

Doan Nhu Hai

Le Quoc Hung

Calmette

Doan Van Bo

Ton

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Nguyen Khoai

Vinh Hoi Vinh Hoi

Xom C

hieu

De Tham

Cao Thang

Cao Thang

Nguyen Cu Trinh

Ho H. Hon

Bui Thi X

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Le Thanh Ton

Le Thanh Ton

Ly Tu Trong

Ly Tu Trong

Ng Truong To

Pasteur

Truong Dinh

Truong Dinh

Nguyen Du

Ng

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Huynh Thuc Khang

Ho Tung M

au

Phan Van Dat

Ng. Cong Tru

Ng. Cong Tru

Han ThuyenAlexandre D

e Rhodes

Le Cong Kieu

Yersin

Tran Cao Van

Nguyen Dinh Chieu

Ho Xuan

Huong

Le Van Sy

Tran

Quo

c Toan

Tran

Quoc

Toan

Tran N

hat D

uat

Ng

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n Huu C

anh

Tran K

hac C

han

Truong Sa

Tran Minh Quyen

Tran Van Dang

Huynh Va

n Ba

nhNg Dinh Chinh

Ben Van Don

Hoang Dieu

Vinh Khanh

DISTRICT 1DISTRICT 5

DISTRICT 10

Huynh Tinh Cua

Ng

uyen

Van

Lac

L. V. Lang

Le Quy Don

Pasteur

Nguyen Gia Thieu

Nguyen An Ninh

DISTRICT 4

DISTRICT 1

PHU NHUAN

BINH THANH

DISTRICT 3Nguyen

Trung N

gan

1

B

C

D

E

F

Vo Huy Tan

3Phan Xich Long

2Gia DinhHospital

5

Nguyen Cuu Van

A

Din

h T

ien

Ho

ang

Cu Lao

4

Ng Hai Tu

Hai Ba Trung

Phan Dinh Phung

HCM CityBoat Quay

(for Vung Tau)

Airport3km

asialife HCMC 91

Central

Post Of�ce

Re-uni�cationPalace

HTVtelevision

Town

Hall

Bus

Station

Ton

Duc

Than

g M

useu

m

Hoa LuStadium

VuonChuoi

Market

WarRemnantsMuseum

Lan AnhSports & Leisure Club

SaigonTrain Station

Teacher

Training

University

Universi

ty

of Natu

ral

Science

s

Thai Binh

Market

Cultural Park

Le V

an Ta

m

Park

Zoo & Botanical

Gardens

Thu ThiemFerry Port

(for District 2)

Vung Tau

Saigon South4km

District 7& Nha Be

District 112km

Cho LonMarket

Tan Binh0.5km

Saigon Bridge& Highway 1

3km

Cat Lai Ferry9km

Ben

Thanh

Market

Cach Mang Thang Tam

Ham Nghi

Le Loi

Nguyen Hue

Pham Hong Thai

Nguyen Van CuTra

n PhuHung Vuong

An Duong Vuong

Le Hong Phong

3 Thang 2

Vo Thi Sau

Vo Thi Sau

Hai Ba Trung

Nguyen Thi Minh Khai

Dien B

ien P

hu

Dien Bien Phu

Nguyen Van Troi

Nam Ky Khoi Nghia

Nam Ky Khoi Nghia

Le Duan

Le Duan

Nguyen Binh Khiem

Nguyen Binh Khiem

Nguyen Huu C

anh

Ly Thai To

Ly C

hinh

Th

ang

Nguyen Tat Thanh

Nguyen Thai H

oc

Xo Viet Nghe Tinh

Ton Duc Thang

Dinh Tien Hoang

Cach Mang Thang Tam

Tra

n Hung D

ao

Tra

n Hung D

ao

Tran Hung Dao

Bui Vien

De ThamD

o Q. DauCong Quynh

Nguyen Trai

Ngu

yen

Trai

Nguyen Trai

Le Lai

Pham Ngu Lao

Co BacNg Kh Nhu

Cao Ba N

ha

Tran Dinh Xu

Chua Phat An

Pham Viet Chanh

Luong Huu Khanh

Ton That Tung

Le Thi RiengSuong Nguyet A

nh

Nguyen Trung Truc

Thu Kh Huan

Huyen Tran Cong Chua

Dong KhoiPasteur

Pham Ngoc Thach

Le Loi

Ton Th at Thiep

T. T. Dam

Duc Ke

Ngo

Hai Trieu

Thi Buoi

Mac

Dong Du

Nghiep

H.H.

Thai Van Lung

Ng Sieu

Cao Ba Quat

Thi Sach

Co Giang

Le Thi Hong Gam

Nguyen Thai Binh

Pho Duc Chinh

Ky Con

Chu Manh Trinh

Ngo Van Nam

Mac Dinh Chi

Nguyen Dinh Chieu

Nguyen Van Thu

Phan Ke Binh

Mai Thi Luu

Tran Quang Khai

Ng. Phi KhanhL. V. Phuc

Ng. Huu C

au

Thach Thi Thanh

D. C. Trang

Tran Khanh Du

Vo Van Tan

Vo Van Tan

Nguyen Thi

DieuNgo Thoi

N

hiemBa Huyen Thanh Quan

Nguyen Thong

Nguyen Th

ong

Tu Xuong

Tran Quoc Thao

Ky D

ong

Truong Quyen

Tran Minh Quyen

Tran Van Dang

Tran Q

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ieu

Tran Q

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Hoang Sa

Huynh Van Banh Nguyen Ngoc Phuong Hu

ynh

Man

Dat

Me Lin

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Huynh Tinh Cua

N. V. H

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Pham Van Han

Ng. Thuong Hien

V. Chuoi

Do Th

anh

Ban Co

Nguyen Thien Thuat

Nguyen Son Ha

Tran Minh Quyen

Tran Binh Trong

Tran Binh Trong

Tran N

han

Ton

Hu

ynh M

an D

at

Nguyen B

ieu

Hoa Hung

Hoang Dieu

Ben Van Don

Doan Nhu Hai

Le Quoc Hung

Calmette

Doan Van Bo

Ton

Dan

Nguyen Khoai

Vinh Hoi Vinh Hoi

Xom C

hieu

De Tham

Cao Thang

Cao Thang

Nguyen Cu Trinh

Ho H. Hon

Bui Thi X

uan

Le Thanh Ton

Le Thanh Ton

Ly Tu Trong

Ly Tu Trong

Ng Truong To

Pasteur

Truong Dinh

Truong Dinh

Nguyen Du

Ng

uye

n D

u

Huynh Thuc Khang

Ho Tung M

au

Phan Van Dat

Ng. Cong Tru

Ng. Cong Tru

Han ThuyenAlexandre D

e Rhodes

Le Cong Kieu

Yersin

Tran Cao Van

Nguyen Dinh Chieu

Ho Xuan

Huong

Le Van Sy

Tran

Quo

c Toan

Tran

Quoc

Toan

Tran N

hat D

uat

Ng

uye

n Huu C

anh

Tran K

hac C

han

Truong Sa

Tran Minh Quyen

Tran Van Dang

Huynh Va

n Ba

nhNg Dinh Chinh

Ben Van Don

Hoang Dieu

Vinh Khanh

DISTRICT 1DISTRICT 5

DISTRICT 10

Huynh Tinh Cua

Ng

uyen

Van

Lac

L. V. Lang

Le Quy Don

Pasteur

Nguyen Gia Thieu

Nguyen An Ninh

DISTRICT 4

DISTRICT 1

PHU NHUAN

BINH THANH

DISTRICT 3Nguyen

Trung N

gan

1

B

C

D

E

F

Vo Huy Tan

3Phan Xich Long

2Gia DinhHospital

5

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Hai Ba Trung

Phan Dinh Phung

HCM CityBoat Quay

(for Vung Tau)

Airport3km

4th Floor ONG&ONG Building159 Phan Xich Long St

Ward 7, Phu Nhuan District

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boxoffice

Beautiful Lies Arthur Christmas Mission: Impossible IV Breaking Dawn Part 1

Opening Dates

CINEMAS

M: Megastar www.megastarmedia.net

T: Thang Long www.giaitrithanglong.com/cinema

The information on this page was correct at the time of printing. Check cinema websites for screenings.

Beautiful Lies (December 09)Mission: Impossible IV (December 16)

Breaking Dawn Part 1 (December 02)Arthur Christmas (December 19)

An anonymous love letter leads to a slew of misunderstandings in this rom-com starring Audrey Tautou (Amélie). Emilie is about to discard a love letter from a secret admirer. But she has a change of heart when she realis-es what such a sentiment would mean to her lonely mother Maddie (Nathalie Baye). So, she forwards the letter to her mum. But later, when Maddie happens across Jean (Sami Bouajila)—a smitten Arab handyman and the note’s original author—mother and daughter find themselves in a heated competition for the same man.

This Christmas movie focuses on the technological advances of operations at the North Pole, revealing how Santa and his army of elves produce gifts and distribute them around the world in one night. However, every operation has a margin of error. When one of 600 mil-lion children to receive a gift from Santa on Christmas Eve is missed, it is deemed ‘accept-able’ to all but one, Arthur. Arthur Claus, Santa’s misfit son, executes a rookie mission to get the last present half way around the globe before Christ-mas morning arrives.

Mission: Impossible IV finds Tom Cruise taking on the role of IMF super agent Ethan Hunt for the fourth time. In this follow up flick, the IMF is shut down when it’s implicated in the bombing of the Kremlin, causing Hunt and his new team to go rogue to clear their organisation’s name. Stem-ming from the popular 1960s television show, the series of films began in May 1996 with Mission: Impossible. Mission: Im-possible II built on the success of part one, and six years later, part three wowed viewers once again.

In this next chapter of The Twi-light Saga, the newfound married bliss of Bella Swan (Kristen Stewart) and vampire Edward Cullen (Robert Pattinson) is cut short thanks to a series of betrayals and misfortunes. Bella and Edward travel to Rio de Janeiro for their honeymoon. Bella becomes pregnant and, during a nearly fatal childbirth, Edward finally fulfills her wish to become immortal. But the ar-rival of their daughter Renesmee sets in motion a perilous chain of events that pits the Cullens and their allies against the fearsome council of vampire leaders.

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As acclaimed literary critic Harold Bloom acknowledged in The Anxiety of Influence, writers are shaped strongly by their influences. But for novelist Jonathan Lethem, acknowledging influences is no source of angst. He finds it rather the opposite. Lethem’s exuberant collection of essays, The Ecstasy of Influence, charts his own constella-tion of idols and inspiration over a hefty 437 pages. These influences include James Brown, Marlon Brando, Philip K. Dick, Marvel comics and Donald Sutherland’s buttocks along with many other diverse references. Just as with his fiction, notably 1999’s Motherless Brooklyn, Lethem ex-tends a colourful, punchy writing approach to his essays.

According to Time Magazine senior writer Jeffrey Kluger, birth order and the consequential family dynamics play a large part in defining who we are. Take the Brady Bunch girls. Perfectionist oldest sister Marcia, insecure middle child Jan and precocious baby Cindy exemplified birth order stereotypes that go beyond the realm of a television sitcom. In The Sibling Effect, Kluger provides a mix of scien-tific and anecdotal explorations on the impact of siblings in determining personalities and patterns. Along with demonstrating a wide net of research, Kluger weaves in his childhood experiences with his own brothers and sisters to provide an entertaining, thought-provoking read.

Blue NightsJoan DidionAlfred A. Knopf

The Sibling Effect: Brothers, Sisters and the Bonds That Define UsJeffrey KlugerRiverhead Books

Queen of AmericaLuis Alberto UrreaLittle, Brown and Company

The Ecstasy of Influ-ence: Nonfictions, Etc. Jonathan LethemDoubleday

With fiction, nonfiction and poetry to his name, Luis Alber-to Urrea references all three genres in his latest novel. The Mexican-American author’s Queen of America tells the fic-tionalised story of his great-aunt, Teresita Urrea, who was also the protagonist of his 2005 The Hummingbird’s Daugh-ter. Known for her healing abilities and proclaimed as the 'Saint of Cabora'—although never formerly canonised—Teresita is an intriguing figure. In Queen of America, Urrea invents her exodus from Mexico to the United States after the violent Battle of Tomochic. Poignant, colourful and clever, Urrea’s fabricated account of Teresita’s voyage across turn-of-the-century America draws in eccentric characters, adventure and magical realism.

In her early essays from the 1960s and 1970s, Joan Didion cuts a glamourous figure—hobnobbing about Hollywood and Honolulu, sitting in on a recording session with The Doors and writing it all up with panache. But it’s another Didion we’ve come to know in her two latest memoirs, 2005’s bestselling The Year of Magical Thinking and the recently published Blue Nights. Now nearing 77, Didion writes with lyrical candour about the two losses that have marked her later life. Magical Thinking was written after her husband’s passing, whereas Blue Nights centres on the subsequent death of her daughter for an intimate exami-nation of motherhood, grief and aging.

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M83Hurry Up, We’re DreamingAnthony Gonzalez promised M83’s sixth album would be “epic”, and the French musi-cian has indeed delivered on his claim. Hurry Up, We’re Dreaming is a 22-track magnum opus in audio form. The record kicks off with a powerful ‘Intro’, including vocals from goth-rocker Zola Jesus, and then segues into the intoxi-cating lead single ‘Midnight City’. Inspired by the concept of dreams, the album has an overall ethereal quality even when the tempo builds. Gonzalez has aimed to make a grand impression, but his ef-fervescent harmony of eighties shoegaze, ambient, rock and indie pop is restrained just enough to keep from being over the top. Zanier moments, such as the nonsensical, child-narrated ‘Raconte-Moi Une Histoire’, add some levity.

ChIlDISh GAMBINoCamp“All these haters / see you later” sings Childish Gambino on his first release, Camp. And there’s been plenty of haters, lambasting Donald Glover’s shift from acting and scriptwriting into rapping. Glover has written for 30 Rock and stars in television series Community, but with Camp he sets out to prove that he’s even more of a renais-sance man. His middle class background puts his street cred into question, but Glover confronts the debate head on in the opening track, ‘Out-side’, which calls for think-ing outside the stereotyping box. Lyrics are shrewd and self-reflexive, dropping nerdy references such as NPR Talk of the Nation’s Terry Gross and culminating in the final track, a metaphorical spoken word piece about summer camp and fickle love.

WIlCoThe Whole Love

A frequent contender in best album of [insert time period or genre here] round-ups, Wilco’s 2002 fourth album Yankee Hotel Foxtrot set the bar pretty high. Seminal would be a choice word. Subsequent releases haven’t been all disappointing per se—fifth album A Ghost Is Born received a Grammy—but the shadow of brilliance had been cast. Now released on Wilco’s own label dBpm, the group’s eighth studio album The Whole Love would seem a rightful descendent of Yankee. Wilco maintains its alternative rock meets soulful Ameri-cana identity, steered by lead singer/guitarist Jeff Tweedy, while also renewing an energy and sense of experimentation that was absent on the forget-table prior two albums. The Whole Love is an evolved, but still classically Wilco produc-tion worth hearing.

CoEUr DE pIrATEBlonde

Here’s a Québécoise who’s less Celine Dion, more Françoise Hardy. Béatrice Martin, who performs as Coeur de pirate, takes inspiration from yé-yé French pop songs of the 1960s, combining jaunty tunes with bittersweet lyrics. Another apt comparison would be France Gall, the “French Lolita” whom 22-year-old Martin resembles in sound as well as appearance. Coeur de pirate saunters the line between sweet and sassy, rolling her Rs with a smoky intona-tion. Her second album, Blonde, marks a broader approach than the 2008 debut of delicate piano ballads. The keys are still strongly present—Martin has played piano since a child—but strings and percussion add some pizzazz. ‘Golden Baby’ is a toe-tapping melody, whereas ‘Saint-Laurent’ captures some of Hardy’s “Tous Les Garçons et Les Filles” wistfulness.

album review by Mai Lynn Miller Nguyen

soundfix

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Gentleman’s RelishBy Brett DavisFew things in the culinary world cause such divergent emotions as the humble anchovy. People either adore them or detest them. I am most firmly one of the former, preferring this small salty delicacy on pizzas, in Caesar salads and anywhere else they can be had, including straight from the jar.

There is also a very English delicacy that I was introduced to several months ago that went straight to my anchovy-loving heart. Odd, in a way, that I only came across Gentle-man’s Relish so recently given it has been around since 1828. That was the year Englishman John Osborne came up with the recipe for Gentleman’s Relish, which for reasons I am not certain is also known as Patum Peperium. Perhaps it is because the provenance of this anchovy-based paste is much older, dating back to an ancient Roman condiment known as garum.

As far as I can tell from my limited knowledge of Latin (ok, from an online Latin-English translator), the phrase means something along the lines of ‘to be made evident’. This is interesting in that the recipe for Gentleman’s Relish is a closely guarded secret, with only one employee of the manufac-

turer Elsenham Quality Foods in possession of it at any one time. They are the only company licensed to make the product and the secret ‘ingredient X’, as it is known, is listed on the packaging as ‘herbs and spices’.

It would appear Colonel Sanders was not the first to come up with a secret herbs and spices marketing plan.

Nonetheless, there are a number of recipes floating around on the internet that claim to have unlocked this closely guarded secret. Not surprisingly the main ingredi-ent is anchovies, with almost as much butter and pinches of cayenne pepper, nutmeg, cinnamon, ginger and black pepper. I have not tried a homemade version as yet, but likely will when my precious supply runs out. However, I doubt the do-it-your-self reci-pes produce the sort of mouth puckering saltiness the real thing does. I guess you could just add more salt.

As the packaging says, it is great on hot toast, and makes for an excellent kick in scrambled eggs. Its saltiness also makes it a perfect beer food. Oh, and if any of you are travelling to the UK, please pick me up a jar or two. You know where to find me.

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radar

How to Get your Requisite Zzzzs sleepyti.meWhy do we often feel more exhausted after six hours of slumber than, say, four? Sleepyti.me calculates the optimal time for you to doze off based on how our sleep cycles operate. Enter the time you want to wake up, press ‘calculate’ and you’ll be presented with the four best times to lay down your head. For instance, if you want to get the day started at 7am, hit the hay at 10 pm, 11:30 pm, 1 am or 2:30 am. Note: it takes about 14 minutes to fall asleep, so hop into bed earlier than the time indicated. Sleepyti.me also works in reverse. If you’re planning to hit the sack pronto, enter the current time to view the best six times to rise. Sleep tight!

To bite or write? cheeseorfont.mogrify.orgThis quirky corner of cyberspace is appropriately named. The site is set up as a game in which you earn points for correctly identifying a word as a cheese or a font. Sound like a piece of cake? Maybe. After all, we plug away on our Macs all day. And who isn’t a cheese connoisseur? But we’re not talking Camembert and Helvetica here. The terms are decidedly more obscure. Would you melt ‘Rudelsberg’ on bread or use it to type an essay? Find out and impress a few people at your next dinner party.

I told Mom what? damnyouautocorrect.comHave you ever texted someone only to discover, to your horror, that the autocorrect feature on your phone has transformed a harmless message into a strange, nonsensical or even inappropriate missive? You are not alone. The folks who share their texts with Damn You Autocorrect have mortified themselves to the max all thanks to the autocorrect feature on their phone or BlackBerry. Some of the (more PG) highlights include, “The room smells like his colon and it’s making me smile” and “Sit tight, good thongs come to those who wait.” Awkward.

ASIA LIFE • 205 x 270 mm • Visuel : Visuel:Frequent flyer • Parution=22/août/2011 • Remise le=21/août/2011 HRU • Relecture

SkyTeam offers you the advantage of accumulating and redeeming your Frequent Flyer

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98 asialife HCMC

THE TWO OF US

Landon Linda

Landon Carnie and Linda Pham have been friends and on-off housemates for the better part of a decade. They tell Brett Davis why their odd-couple friendship has stood the test of time.

I met Linda about one year after I arrived in Vietnam, about 2003. We didn’t meet in Vietnam, we met in Thailand. We had a mutual friend who went there to have laser surgery on her eyes. I went over to help her and Linda came over, too.

We were just hanging out in the room and Linda walks in and the first thing she says is ‘I left my key to my locks, I can’t open my luggage, can you help me!’

We spent the next half hour using the chair and the edge of the bed to try to break the lock off her luggage. Finally we called hotel maintenance and they came and opened it.

I was like, ‘Who the fuck is this girl?’ So I said, ‘You’re sleeping on the spare bed, I get the good bed.’

I had my birthday a few weeks later, so I asked Linda to help me prepare my birthday plans. She spent the whole day going around buying shit for this birthday party, and it was actually one of the best parties we all remember.

The first time we lived together was in 2008. Linda was quitting her job and getting ready to travel. She needed a few more months to take care of some things so I lived with her then for a short time.

When she finished travelling and came back to Vietnam, she was just going to stay for a few weeks [laughs]. She was with her boyfriend Rob at the time. When he went back to the US to study she asked if she could stay on and I said yes.

Honestly, it works because I feel like I’m a big brother. Sometime she has these issues or gets a bit needy and I always say ‘No, I don’t care, you need to do this’, and she says ‘Fine’, and that is why it works.

I think about why I am friends with certain people and it comes down to respect. There are a lot of things I disagree with Linda about completely, but I respect her profession and her expertise in what she does. Honestly that is why I’m friends with her.

My very first impression of Landon was that this dude was not a gentleman! First of all I walk in and there are two girls and there is Landon. I’m think-ing he is going to be nice and give the two good beds to the girls. But next thing I know he is showing me to this thin wire-framed bed that sags when you sit on it. Then he helped me with my suitcase, unsuccessfully.

But the next four days in Thailand we got along great, and ever since we have been great friends. We are so dif-ferent. We don’t really go out socially together. We have a different set of friends, different interests. But we are like family to each other. He is my rock, and I hope I’m his rock. When I came back after a year of travel and I said to Landon that we were just coming for a two week holiday, he said, ‘We’ll see about that!' He was not surprised at all when I asked if I could stay on.

He has no shame! The first time my boyfriend and I

came here—and I have lived with Landon for many years so I know exactly what he is like—he said he was going to cook for us. So he goes into his bedroom and comes out topless with these—they were not even shorts—they were these tight briefs. And he’s frying the steak and my boyfriend is looking across at me and asking if this was normal. I said, 'Just let it be, that’s him, just go with it.'

But as a housemate he is very straightforward. We don’t keep anything inside, anything we are not happy with we just let it out so there are never any house issues.

Every time I have gone through anything Landon has been there without fail. He keeps me straight and I respect his opinion and the experiences he has gone through. It is really important to have someone there who brings me back down to reality and who is very honest in his opinions. Whether or not I take that advice is a dif-ferent story.

The Ho Chi Minh Symphony Orchestra, featuring 13 yearold child prodigy violinist Do Phuong Nhi from Hanoi.

Principal singer is Ms. Thanh Nga, soprano, from HCMC Ballet Symphony Orchestra, with guests Ms. Vanessa Tantillo and Mr. Brian Riedlinger from the

International Choir and Orchestra of Ho Chi Minh City.

December 3rd - Hochiminh City Opera House

6:00 – 7:30 Art Exhibition and Silent Auction with Finger Food and free flow wine, beer, water, tea.

7:30 to 9:30 Concert

500,000VND per person, for more information or to purchase tickets, email rogerf@seanet.com or sms 0986 693 266 from Dist 2 or 7, all others 0903 365 720, providing your name, number of tickets requested and contact information.

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I’ll let you in on a secret: I do not live in Saigon. I live in Hanoi. I’m here right now. If you hold this column to your ear, you’ll hear the gentle sound of pure Hanoi water lapping against the shores of one of our many (countless!) tranquil lakes in the crisp autumn breeze; if you take a great big sniff of the page, you’ll inhale the unmistakable scent of pure old world charm. You’re smelling it now, aren’t you? I know you are, because I can feel your jealousy from 1760 kilometres away.

I have experienced inter-city rivalries before. I used to live in Sydney, which invests a great deal of effort into being better than Melbourne (not that it has to, because it’s better without even trying) but the competi-tion between Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City is off the scale. This is completely understandable from the Vietnamese point of view, given the historical enmity between north and south, but

what’s remarkable is how the expat community seems to feel just as strongly about it.

I know that I do. In fact, I would probably argue more strongly on behalf of Hanoi in the face of a Saigonese claim of being more awesome than I would for Sydney against Mel-bourne. And there is absolutely no logical explanation for this. The reason I live in Hanoi and not Ho Chi Minh City is random chance, and the reason I prefer Hanoi is because I happen to live here, and the reason I live here is random chance. It’s an argument as circular as the glistening shell of Hanoi’s legendary turtle. Incidentally, Saigon has no legendary turtles. Just saying.

Any time a Hanoi expat re-turns from a trip to Saigon, they must report back to their fellow Hanoians on what they did there. They must say that it was “fun for a weekend”, optionally noting that the nightlife and

food is better, but immediately adding the essential and em-phatic qualification: “I wouldn’t want to live there though”. The Hanoians must then all shake their heads, brows furrowed, as they imagine the plight of the poor souls down south who do have to live there. Terrible business!

The Hanoians must then rally the troops and deploy a tactical defensive move whereby they recap all of Saigon’s deficien-cies compared to Hanoi, usually gleaned from a couple of brief jaunts down south. These must include, but are not limited to:

• Too many traffic jams• Lack of seasons• Too many tall buildings• Too many beggars• Lack of charm/character/ quaintness• Roads too wide• No lakes• Iced coffee is too sweet• Can’t understand (superior)

Hanoi accent• Trees too tall• Too much luxury brand-name shopping• City is too big• Expats all work in the private sector• Weird herbs in the pho• Too much construction• Has two names• Not Hanoi

The Hanoians will then sit back, pleased with themselves for having irrefutably proven that the city they arbitrarily chose to make their home is Better Than The Other One They Could Have Arbitrarily Chosen.

But I’m sure that Saigon expats would never engage in this kind of nonsense about Hanoi. I mean, there’s not really much point when it’s a foregone conclusion who’ll come out on top, right?

To read more from Tabitha visit thecitythatneversleepsin.com.

Want to know what they’re saying about you in Hanoi? Tabitha Carvan offers this inside scoop.

Keeping Tabs

102 asialife HCMC

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pub quizpub quiz

1) How is Shakespeare’s Robin Goodfellow better known?

2) Who is Dick Grayson’s more famous comic partner?

3) What were the first names of A.A. Milne’s son?

4) What is the title of Daniel Defoe’s fictional autobiography of a castaway?

5) What is the surname of brothers Maurice, Barry and Robin?

21) What is the origin of Santa Claus?

22) When do well behaved Dutch children receive presents?

23) In 2006 which country’s postal service received letters addressed to Father Christmas or Santa Claus from over 150 countries?

24) How many reindeer pull the sleigh that carries Christmas presents?

25) What did Spike Jones & His City Slickers want for Christmas in their chart topping hit from 1949?

6) Which of Snow White’s dwarfs has the longest name?

7) Which cosmetic brand gets its name from Latin for as snow white?

8) Lord Snowdon was formerly married to which member of the British royal family?

9) Who has a dog called Santa's Little Helper and a cat called Snowball?

10) Who said, 'I used to be Snow White, but I drifted'?

11) The original of this Christmas carol starts “O Tannenbaum, O Tannenbaum/Wie grün sind deine Blätter!” What is the name of this carol in English?

12) What is the most common type of Christmas tree in Europe?

13) What Christmas tree decorations were given away free by Lucky Market last year?

14) Where in America is the National Christmas Tree placed every year?

15) On what date are Christmas trees traditionally taken down?

16) A traditional Christmas meal in the Czech Republic consists of which fish?

17) Which dish remained the predominate roast in England until the Victorian era?

18) What is the usual accompaniment to roast turkey that is rarely served at other times of year?

19) In which European country do families eat boiled codfish for Christmas dinner?

20) Glühwein is a popular Christmas drink in many German speaking countries. What is it called in English?

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Robins

Snow

Trees

Christmas Food

Presents

Celebrity Santas

Pub Quiz Answers1) Puck 2) Batman/Bruce Wayne 3) Christopher Robin 4) Robinson Crusoe 5) Gibb 6) Bashful 7) Nivea 8) Princess Margaret 9) The Simpsons 10) Mae West 11) O Christmas Tree 12) Norway Spruce 13) Candy canes 14) Near the Whitehouse, Washington DC 15) 6th January 16) Carp 17) Goose 18) Cranberry Sauce or Jelly 19) Portugal 20) Mulled Wine 21) Sinterklaas – St. Nicholas 22) 6th December 23) Finland 24) 9 25) My Two Front Teeth 26) Katy Perry 27) Prince Charles 28) Harrison Ford 29) Brad Pitt 30) Jack Nicholson

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