HORTICULTURE NEWSLETTER

April 2016

Master Gardener Association Meeting

Horticulture Council Meeting follows

Meetings are the first Tuesday

of each month

Call for time of meeting.

Cooperative Extension Service

Bullitt County

384 Halls Ln.

Shepherdsville, Ky 40165

(502) 543-2257

Fax: (502) 543-6940

www.bullitt.ca.uky.edu

All classes offered by the Horticul-ture Program require preregistration. If you fail to preregister classes may be full, rescheduled or can-celled.

Please call 543-2257, to RSVP, if you plan on at-tending a class.

IN THIS ISSUE :

Beginning Vegetable Gardening

Rain Chains

Keyhole Gardens

Miniature Gardening

Goats and Weeds

Butterfly Gardens

Upcoming Classes

April 6 6pm

Dish Gardens

April 18 6-8pm

Grafting Fruit Trees

Master Gardener Plant Sale

Saturday April 30th

May 26 6pm

Culinary Herbs

June 6 10am-4pm

Home Orchard Production

All Day Event, presentations and

demos on how to start a home orchard

June 23 6pm

Producing Produce

Please RSVP if you plan to attend any

of our classes. 543-2257

Lorilee George

Lorilee George Bullitt County Extension Agent for Horticulture

Guests at the March

Master Gardener

Meeting!

Blair Helvey from

Idlewild Butterfly

Farm brought these

Mantids to visit.

Vegetable Gardening for Beginners

Choose your garden location with care. It

should have several hours of full sun. A location

close to a water source will make your life a lot

easier. Stay away from trees that will shade the

garden during the day. Late afternoon shade is ok.

Tree roots will make the garden hard to till and

plant and trees will also compete with your

garden for water. Buildings can also shade needed

sunlight from the garden. Garden location can be

impacted by slope, drainage, soil quality, previous

land use and wildlife considerations.

Soil condition must be taken into

consideration. Remove debris such as rocks,

boards, dead plant material and litter. Always

have a soil test done far in advance of your

anticipated planting date. Amend the soil with

nutrients as recommended on your soil test.

Organic material can be incorporated 6 weeks

prior to planting, as well as adding sand for better

drainage.

Avoid deep tilling unless absolutely necessary.

Tilling will bring weed seeds to the surface and

you will have extra work. Work the soil at least 6

inches deep, but do not pulverize. Test the soil for

wetness before doing any type of garden work. A

handful of soil should break apart when squeezed

into a ball. Even walking on the soil when it is

wet, will cause compaction.

Plan out your garden well in advance. Choose

what you will plant and the best location in the

garden for what you are planting. Shorter crops

should be on the sun side of the garden, so they

are not shaded by taller plants, such as corn.

Research the crops you want to grow. Choose

which varieties will do best in our zone, 6b.

Read the package labels before planting. It

will tell you how many days to maturity, spacing,

planting depth, size of the mature plant, and the

sun and fertility requirements. If the vegetable

that you are growing can be started indoors and

then transplanted, then the days to maturity is

determined from the usual time you transplant the

seedling. If the seed variety is usually directly

sown into the garden soil, then days to maturity is

usully calculated from the time the seed

germinates.

Some plants, such as beans and tomatoes, will

need supports.

This can be

stakes, trellises,

or wire cages.

Trellising will

allow more

harvest in less

space, but be sure

the trellis is not

shading other plants. Intercropping is also an

option for growing 2 or more vegetables in the

same space. For instance, pole beans can be

planted so they use corn as a support. Warm

season crops can be planted among cool season

crops that will have finished producing and be

ready to remove when the warm season crop is

starting to grow.

Water requirements will depend on the

weather. At least on inch of water is needed

weekly. If this is not provided by rain, then water

will need to be provided. Water early in the day or

late in the evening. A slow, deep watering is best,

done at the roots and not from overhead.

The Bullitt County Extension Office can

provide you with

publications and answer your

questions as well as

identifying any disease and

insect problems. Gardening

publication ID-128 is

available for in depth

gardening information.

Information for this article taken

from Spring Garden Prep publication by Lorilee George/Bullitt

County Extension Agent for Horticulture.

When the Gardening Word Search puzzle is complete, read the left over letters starting at the top left and reading down to the bottom right to learn an interesting

gardening tip.

Rain Chains

Rain chains are a

beautiful and

functional

alternative to

traditional

downspouts. They

guide rain-water

from the roof to the

ground, collection

container, or raingarden. They produce a soothing

sound and can be hand crafted using many

different materials and objects. Rain chains are

ease to install and can replace downspouts on a

typical household gutter system.

They can be placed where the musical cascade

of the water flowing down the chain can be heard.

The visual effect is also a

calming and entertaining

way of directing the water

to a catch basin or paver to

prevent erosion at the

down spout location. A rain

garden is the perfect

destination for the water

flow.

In its simplest, most

traditional form, a rain

chain is a common chain

constructed of copper or

brass. The styles range from simple single links to

elaborate, multiple interlocking links. The

optimal length will extend to just above ground

level. Keep in mind that splattering is a common

problem, if installed near a door, window, or

walkway.

Depending on the

items used, the chain can

add considerable weight,

so make sure what ever it

is attached to can bear

the load.

As for the choice of

construction materials, your imagination is the

limit. Keep in mind that items that hold water,

may need to be cleaned out occasionally. Also

make sure that there will not be any water pooled

after the rain event, as this

will draw mosquitoes. Metal

is the most common material,

but items such as cookie

cutters, tulip globes from old

ceiling fans, or even glass

items can be used.

In addition to function,

placement, style, and

material, the last

consideration is

installation. If the

structure doesn’t have

eaves or an overhang

of sufficient depth, a

bracket can be attached to the wall to extend the

chain away from the structure. If a gutter and

downspout is already in place, the downspout can

be removed and the chain can be attached to a

spacer bar or clip in the gutter to span the

downspout hole.

The chains are often anchored to keep them

from swaying. They can be used to direct water

into a rain barrel or a decorative pot or bowl.

Keep in mind that metal will weather and change

appearance. It can also leach metal into the

rainwater that may make the water toxic to

wildlife. Choose material with care if the water

will be flowing into a pond or birdbath. Also if

the water is flowing into a rain barrel, consider if

it will be toxic to plants.

Rain chains have been used in Japan for

hundreds of years. They became popular in the

United States several years ago.

Source: University of Arizona Extension/Rain

Chains by Kathryn Hahne

Keyhole Garden

A keyhole garden is a raised bed structure,

about 6 feet in diameter and about 3 feet high. A

basket-type structure is placed in the center of the

bed where composting of kitchen wastes and

other materials occurs. A notch in the wall of the

bed allows easy access to the basket and gives the

garden its name. The basket sits right in the

middle of the garden and can either be round or

square depending upon the materials from which

it is constructed. Most baskets are about 1 foot in

diameter but can be larger. They can be made

from tree branches and vines, plastic netting or

other materials. It is the nutritional and water hub

of the garden.

Kitchen wastes, lawn trimmings and other

biodegradable plant materials are regularly added

to the basket. These materials breakdown over

time and provide essential nutrients for the

garden plants. The basket is also designed to

receive extra water and from there it distributes

moisture throughout through the garden.

The bed itself needs to be at least 6 feet in

diameter to provide enough room to grow a good

crop of vegetables. A larger diameter would make

it difficult to reach the innermost garden plants.

The notch in the bed extends far enough into the

garden to allow access to the basket.

The garden is constructed in such a manner

that water drains down hill away from the basket

and towards the plants. This type of garden

requires less watering and grows well during

drought and dry season.

The walls of the garden can be constructed of

bricks, paving stones, plastic, wood, concrete

blocks or any

flexible

material that is

safe to grow

food in. The

bottom and

sides can be

lined with

cardboard. Layers of newspaper, straw, grass

clippings, leaves and soil can be placed in the

bottom to decay and provide nutrients.

The basket can be formed using chicken wire.

Outside the basket lay down a layer of stiff

branches or dried weeds and cover the layer with

ordinary cardboard. You want the layers to slope

away from the basket so that water and nutrients

drain away from the basket, just enough to let the

water run down hill. Place a 3 or 4 inch layer of

soil, followed by

a layer of plant

material,

followed by

more soil.

Continue this

process until the

top layer of soil

is up to the

desired height.

Fill the basket with compostable material such

as coffee grinds, grass clippings, shredded leaves,

and vegetable and fruit scraps. The garden will be

continuously fed a diet of nutrient rich compost

and can produce an astonishing amount of

produce. The constant supply of organic matter

will attract earthworms and you will have very

nutrient rich, healthy soil.

You don’t have to bend or kneel to weed and

the best part is that you have combined your

compost bin with your vegetable garden. By

using kitchen scraps and grey water, keyhole

gardens are the ultimate poster child for a garden

recycling center.

Source:UA Extension/Keyhole Gardens

Miniature Gardening Just for Fun! By Dave Puckett, Bullitt County Master Gardener

In the early 1950s, as I was learning to cope

with the crippling effects of childhood polio, my

mother and I would ride the Blue Motor Coach

(county bus) to Fourth Street in downtown

Louisville. We would take in a movie, eat open-

faced roast beef sandwiches with mashed

potatoes and gravy at Walgreens, and then head to

Byck’s Department Store to purchase new shoes.

I hated buying shoes. They were always

brown, clunky, orthopedic shoes which hurt my

feet, but could be mounted to the cold steel

uprights of my leg braces. I hated those shoes!

But, I loved the shoe department at Byck’s!

Placed as points of interest throughout the

children’s shoe department were the most

charming dioramas filled with miniature garden

scenes populated by all sorts of live plants and

miniature figurines of children reveling in the

freedom of outdoor play. Those dioramas

provided a seven-year old me with a venue for

my imagination to run wild … and free! As I

think back on those days, I know that was the

beginning of a lifelong love of miniature gardens.

Now, as a 68-year-old gardener, I like to try to

recreate the magic of those Byck’s days in my

own yard and home. The most difficult part for

me is deciding how far I want my imagination to

wander. Do I want an indoor or outdoor garden?

How large? In ground or in a container? If, in a

container, what kind? Are there certain plants I

wish to highlight? Possibilities are endless. If I

can imagine it, I can most likely create any tiny

world I want … and so can you!

Where to Begin

Decide on a theme (fairies, gnomes, animals,

or specimen you wish to feature (plant,

miniature figure, or even a nice stone).

Choose a container (or location in your

landscape) and plants best suited to your

ideas.

Decide whether you want your miniature

garden to be viewed from all sides or just one.

Note: if it is to be viewed from all sides, place

the focal point in the center with lower

plantings around it. If it is to be viewed from

only one side, place the tallest plant or feature

in the back, with the lower plantings to the

front.

Gather any materials which can support your

theme: miniature fairies, animals, cottages,

mushrooms, natural accents like acorns, seeds,

nuts, seed pods, bark, stones, miniature

furniture, etc.

Choosing a Container

For your miniature garden, the best containers are

ones with a fairly large open surface area to

accommodate as many plants and decorative

features as your theme requires. Preferably

choose one

that has drain

holes, or can

have drain

holes put in it.

Continued on

next page…..

If your container does not and cannot have drain

holes, put a layer of pea gravel in the bottom to

catch extra water and only provide a measured

amount of water when the soil feels dry to the

touch. My wagon garden is an example. I chose

an old rusty child’s wagon and put several holes

in the bottom. This can be done with any tray-

shaped container.

A bonus with wagons (or any trays) is that

they are portable and can be moved to protected

areas easily if weather becomes extreme.

Other containers I have had success with are

the vintage graniteware items, from children’s

potties and World War bedpans, to dish pans and

mixing bowls. Old ones with pre-existing holes or

rusty spots have little antique value and make in-

teresting containers. You might also use baskets,

old tool boxes, wide terra cotta pots, even bird

baths.

Your landscape may provide all the container

you need! We had to have a six-year-old willow

cut down and decided to make it the focal point

for a miniature garden.

The focal point in this “hummingbird garden”

was a broken piece from an inexpensive figurine.

It was fastened to a piece of driftwood with

marine sealant and the garden was planned

around it. The container, a child’s potty, has holes

in the bottom and sits in a plate on my desk year

round.

Another “potty” garden features succulent

plants and a miniature bronze frog. It is a simple

arrangement, but makes a delightful miniature

low-maintenance garden. The photo demonstrates

how effective a single decorative focal point can

be.

Possible Plant Choices

Elfin and Wooly thyme

Any slow growing hardy sedum

Baby Tears

Scotch moss

Irish moss

Pilea

Dwarf evergreens

Hens and chicks

Portulaca

Small aloes

Alyssum

Any small Bonsai tree

Possible Fairy Garden Miniatures

Sculpting clay to make anything

Twig furniture

Toadstools made from sticks and acorn caps

Pine cone scale roofs

Add a fairy door to the base of a tree

Signs on smooth stones with a sharpie

Gazing ball from a marble and golf tee

Putting It All Together

The soil mix for a miniature garden in a

container must allow for good drainage. The

average potting mix for garden planters will work.

For succulent plantings, add sand and gravel to

the mix.

Once the design plan is established, begin by

planting the plants with the largest root mass first.

You might want to divide small creeping plants

and use as a border or for edging. Make a shallow

hole for the plants and set the roots in first, filling

dirt around and gently up to the base. Tuck any

stray roots gently into the soil. Leave room for

pathways and any miniature features you wish to

use.

Once plants are installed, use your choice of

ground cover gravel or sand to cover any exposed

potting mix. Water thoroughly after planting; then

water only when soil feels dry to the touch.

All that is left is to enjoy your work (and perhaps

thank some memory from your youth for

triggering your interest!)

References:

http://web.extension.illinois.edu/mg/

conference2013/documents/Gardening%20in%

20Miniature%20by%20K.%20Newman.pdf

http://solutionsforyourlife.ufl.edu/hot_topics/

lawn_and_garden/dish_gardens_terrariums.shtml

http://gardentherapy.ca/miniature-garden-ideas/

Saturday— April 30th, 2016

8am-2pm Rain or Shine

384 Halls Ln/BC Extension Office

Vendors this year include

Goat Hollow Queen Soaps Fallen Maple Farm

Coops D.Villas Peerce Farm & Greenhouses

Salvaged Finds Tom Greenwell Arbors

Ironweed Native Plant Nursery Mary Jo Evans (variety)

Nature’s Wood Creations Summer Marks Daylilies

Creation’s Beginnings Nursery Garden Art by Jim

Down on the Farm Antiques Sharon Clark (variety)

Sherman Kasinger (garden art) Angie Reid (variety)

Woodworks at Cardin Loop Judy Sample (variety)

Brian’s Botanicals Daylily Society of Louisville

Family Thyme Creations (fish) Bullitt Central Greenhouse

Promise Land Blueberries Al’s Walking Sticks

Call 543-2257 for directions and info

Using Goats to Control Weeds and Brush

Goats can be an effective tool in reducing

weeds and brush on your property. In areas where

herbicides are not an option or are limited, goat

grazing can reduce weeds by reducing seed

production and plant growth. They can clean up

overgrown brush in a relatively short time.

Browsing during the early spring and summer

will get the best results. Brush can be reduced by

as much as 50% in a single year, depending on

how many goats are used per acre. A general rule

of thumb is that ten goats will clear an acre in

about one month.

While the popular misconception that goats

will eat anything is clearly not true, goats will

clear an amazing variety of brushy and weedy

species. Honeysuckle, wild grape, kudzu, poison

ivy and oak, blackberry, thistle, English ivy and

poison sumac are on their menu. Plants are killed

by continually being defoliated, so the larger

vines will be left for you to remove.

When an area has been grazed for a while,

goats may start striping bark from trees. This is

the time to move them to the next area you want

cleared. Goats like to nibble and wander. They

will take a few leaves here and move on to find a

few more. This allows them to have a well

rounded diet. Feeding a good ration, with the

nutrients they need to stay healthy, will keep the

goats happy. Make sure to keep them treated for

parasites and vaccinated for diseases.

Goats like to wander, so good fencing is a

must. They can go under, through, and over just

about any type of fencing. Welded wire cattle

panels work well to keep them contained. These

panels can be moved to new areas so that you can

set up a rotation of the brushy areas. Keep in

mind that if you do not keep them contained, you

will spend lots of time “goat hunting”. Choose

your fence wisely and you will hopefully not

have a battle. Goats love to climb and are very

good at it.

Good fencing provides a dual purpose.

Predators such as pack dogs and coyotes love

goat meat. One kill and they will be back for

more. A shelter, such as a horse trailer or movable

shed, should be provided and the goats should be

shut in at night. Make sure the fence is well

anchored, or the goats will go under to get out

and the predators will go under to get in.

Consider a livestock guard dog for protection of

your animals.

The micro-organisms that live in a goat’s

rumen need a steady level of acidity. Levels that

are too high or too low can result in various

issues, such as bloat, which can be deadly. Baking

soda can help with stabilizing and keeping the

digestive system functioning properly. Simply

offer it to goats free of choice in a small

container. This can be done in the same way that

you supply their salt and minerals. Also always

provide your goats with a constant supply of fresh

clean water.

Summary

1.Use a large enough number of goats to do

the job.

2.Pay special attention to fencing. Keep the

goats in and the predators out.

3.Feed nutritious feed with supplements for

goats. Supply salt, minerals, baking soda and

fresh water.

4.If goats are eating plants that you are allergic

to, be cautious when handling them. The oils can

stay on their coats.

Help a Youth Discover Butterflies

A butterfly garden is one of the easiest ways to

introduce a child to gardening. They will have

fun learning what plants attract butterflies, and

helping to pick them out at the nursery. They can

learn to read labels and plan the plant placement

in the garden according to size and other

requirements. Watering and deadheading plants

gets a child outside in the sunshine, excited to see

what is blooming and what butterflies are

visiting.

Butterfly gardens provide opportunities to

educate your child about the life cycle of a

butterfly and view each stage of growth. They

can learn why wildlife is important and how it

affects their own lives. Learning about migration

will teach them about the geography of the world

they live in. There are so many lessons to be

learned in a butterfly garden!

Requirements of at least six hours of sunlight,

colorful flowering plants, a water source and easy

access for a child are all that is necessary. Leafy

”host plants” that attract egg-laying butterflies

and provide food for the larvae will be needed.

When selecting plants, choose a variety of

species that bloom throughout the growing

season. This will help lure the butterflies to your

garden for longer periods. Butterflies are most

active from mid to late summer.

Plant possibilities include aster, sunflower,

butterfly weed, lilac, black eyed susan, phlox, and

purple coneflower. Annuals such as petunia,

marigold, and verbena are also good choices.

Butterflies love red, yellow, orange, pink, and

purple blossoms.

Plant your flowers in a sunny spot that is

sheltered from the wind. Group plants so that lots

of flowers grow close together. Fill a shallow pan

with sand or mud and water and place in a sunny

area. Butterflies will land there to collect the

minerals they need. Let your child choose some

rocks they like and place them in the garden for

the butterflies to rest on to warm in the sun.

If you can not plant a butterfly garden, you

can still bring butterflies in by making a fruity

mash that they can’t resist. Simply mash any fruit

with a sugar source and let it sit for a few hours,

then smear it on a surface in your yard. It is best

to put this in a semi-sunny area so it will not dry

out so quickly.

In a successful butterfly garden, your child

will be able to observe the developmental process

of a butterfly. The eggs soon hatch, and the larvae

appear and eat the leafy growth of the host plant,

eventually developing into full-grown

caterpillars. Later these caterpillars affix

themselves to a twig and form a chrysalis,

entering the pupa stage. Within about two weeks,

they metamorphose into butterflies and

re-emerge.

There is so much for your child to learn.

Contact the Extension Office for publications that

will give you all the information you need on

butterfly gardens. Horticulture agent, Lorilee

George, can also guide you through any problems

and questions that may arise.

Source: kidsgardening.org/Creating a Family

Butterfly Garden

Cooperative Extension Service

University of Kentucky

Bullitt County

384 Halls Ln.

Shepherdsville Ky, 40165