flat pattern

FLATPATTERN MAKINGBY

SAIMA HABIB

SARWAT HALIMA

SADIA AMEEN

PATTERN MAKING

Pattern making is an art. It is the art of manipulating and shaping a flat piece of fabric to conform to one or more curves of the human figure .

Pattern making is a bridge function between design and production.

PATTERN MAKING

A sketch can be turned into a garment via a pattern which interprets the design in the form of the garment components (Cooklin).

Now a day’s sophisticated software programs are used for pattern making.

BASICS OF PATTERN MAKING

A pattern is flat while the body is not. The body has height, width and depth.

Darts are the basis of all pattern making. They convert the flat piece of cloth into a three dimensional form, which fits the bulges of the body.

A patternmaker typically makes a pattern from a flat sketch with measurements or a two dimensional fashion illustration.

BASICS OF PATTERN MAKING

The basic pattern is the very foundation upon which pattern making, fit and design are based.

The basic pattern is the starting point for flat pattern designing.

It is a simple pattern that fits the body with just enough ease for movement and comfort (Shoben and Ward).

HISTORY OF PATTERN MAKING

Prior to the Industrial Revolution the art of patternmaking was highly revered.

Tailors meticulously worked with their client's personal measurements to customize patterns

Clothing made by tailors was elaborate and relegated only to the very rich.

HISTORY OF PATTERN MAKING

With the onset of the Industrial Revolution, standardized patterns were essential to the success of ready-to-wear clothing.

Initial attempts to create standardized patterns resulted in poorly fitting garments with little detail.

After lengthy experimentation and standardized sizing, patternmaking made a triumphant transformation from customization to standardization.

HISTORY OF PATTERN MAKING

Computers have been used by apparel companies since the early 1980's.

Pattern Design Systems (PDS) have become invaluable tools to the patternmaker, assisting in much of the repetitive tasks associated with patternmaking.

PDS systems are capable of storing an incredible amount of data that can be quickly retrieved, tweaked and re-filed.

HISTORY OF PATTERN MAKING

Using a mouse or stylus, patternmakers are able to swiftly add style details and make changes.

There are many benefits to PDS - speed, accuracy and ease of data transmission being some of the most obvious.

In today's competitive environment, software companies are zeroing in on the growing demands of the apparel manufacturer.

HISTORY OF PATTERN MAKING Current research focuses

on generating patterns that produce better fitting garments and 3D visualization tools to help fine tune style.

With on going  technological advances and diligent research, patternmaking software companies continue to successfully address the needs of their customers.

METHODS OF PATTERN MAKING

Pattern making involves three methods-

1. Drafting

2. Draping

3. Flat pattern making

FLAT PATTERN MAKING

The right fit is key to gaining consumer confidence and loyalty.

Once a brand’s target fit has been defined, it must be wielded intelligently to maintain a competitive advantage.

Flat pattern making, when done correctly, provides the code to this integral part of a brand’s DNA and helps ensure competitiveness in a challenging market place.

FLAT PATTERN MAKING

A sloper is a pattern that has no seam allowances or style lines.

From a sloper a myriad of garment styles can be generated.

The patternmaker creates a new style by adding design details such as a collar, pocket and pleats.

DESIGNING APPAREL THROUGH THE FLAT PATTERN 

The rapid output of new flat pattern designs, facilitated by slopers, is a useful skill for any fashion designer.

Flat pattern can be use as a means of developing original ideas effectively and efficiently.

Flat pattern is use of the three basic slopers

waist, sleeve and skirt and some popular

variations of these such as the kimono waist, raglan sleeves and pants.

THE FLAT PATTERN METHOD

The flat pattern method uses twelve basic pattern slopers that are manipulated by the patternmaker to achieve a desired style or design.

FLAT PATTERN MAKING

 It involves the development of a fitted basic pattern with comfort ease to fit a person or body form.

A sloper is the starting point for flat pattern designing.

It is a simple pattern that fits the body with just enough ease for movement and comfort

(Pattern Cutting & Making Up Vol. 1 Shoben and Ward).

FLAT PATTERN MAKING

Five basic pattern pieces are used for womens clothing. They include

1. a snug-fitting bodice front 2. bodice back with darts

3. a basic neckline, 4. a sleeve

5. a fitted skirt front and back with darts. However, as fashion changes frequently women's styles fluctuate frequently.

These basic slopers are then manipulated to create fashions.

PATTERN MAKING PROCESS

"Patternmaking" is the process of creating all the correctly sized pieces needed to make a complete garment.

For many smaller manufacturers, pattern making is still done on paper because the cost of computerized systems remains prohibitive.

The patternmaker may use one of the following techniques to develop a sample pattern.

1. They may "manipulate" a new pattern by using geometric rules to modify or alter existing pattern pieces.

PATTERN MAKING PROCESS

2 They may translate a design that has been "draped" and pinned on a dress form by converting the shapes of the draped garment sections into paper pattern pieces.

3 They may pin pieces of muslin to a garment being copied and rub tailor's chalk over the seams and darts, making a "muslin rub." The chalk markings are then used to create a flat paper pattern.

PATTERN MAKING PROCESS

From this initial pattern, a sample garment is developed.

The sample process allows a designer to correct any problems inherent in translating a one-dimensional sketch into a two-dimensional garment; it ensures that the designer's fabric yardage specifications are accurate; and it provides an opportunity to spot potential production problems inherent in a design.

PATTERN MAKING PROCESS

Once the sample is made, the manufacturer makes a small batch of duplicates for its sales force to test market. If they sell well, the garment goes into larger volume production.

Although many firms still make patterns by hand, larger manufacturers make production patterns on a computer using CAD software.

PATTERN MAKING PROCESS

Other systems have been developed that allow patternmakers to create patterns manually by using a life-sized, sensitized table and a stylus attached to a computer. As the patternmaker indicates points with the stylus, the pattern pieces are automatically entered into the CAD system where they can immediately be accessed for grading and marking.

BASIC TOOLS FOR APPAREL PATTERNMAKING

Having the right tools for making a pattern is a super important place to start. Luckily, most tools are not expensive and are easy to get.

Here’s the quick list.1) Large scale paper 2) Clear Gridded Ruler3) Flexible Design Rule4) Hip/Arm Curve (Styling Design Ruler)5) Pencil and a good Eraser6) Large pins7) Cork panels8) Flexible Measuring Tape9) Basic sewing book

1. LARGE SCALE PAPER

Such as butcher paper (18″ wide on long rolls), banner paper (18″ wide roll and often sold with school/office supplies), patterning paper (36″-48″ wide, sold by stores that sell patterning tools or cater to high end sewing and tailoring).

2. CLEAR GRIDDED RULER

These rulers are pretty easy to find at most craft stores.

The most common size seems to be 18″x2″ which is a great size to start with.  This style of ruler comes in many sizes and shapes.  The variety comes in handy and the more you pattern (and figure out who you are as a designer) you will want to grow your collection by buying rulers to fulfill certain needs and uses.   The 12″x1″ ruler is extremely useful when adding seam allowances to small pieces or sharp curves.

3. FLEXIBLE DESIGN RULE (FLEXIBLE RULER)

This rule can be curved into specific shapes and you use this to measure curved lines.  They are often placed with quilting notions in fabric stores and, like gridded rulers, can also be found with graphic design tools.  For most versatile use, make sure you get one that has a built in ruler.

4. HIP/ARM CURVE

These are becoming easier to find in sewing stores.  This tool is designed to give you the best smooth, consistent hip and arm curves with little effort.  You don’t need this tool but it make patterning easier!

5. PENCIL AND A GOOD ERASER We want to use pencil

when patterning so lines can be erased and re-drawn. 

Mechanical pencils are a better option because of their incredibly consistent line width. 

A good eraser is an imperative also. We will want a good eraser to cleanly remove old lines leaving no marks behind that could confuse us later on.

6. LARGE PINS Large pins come in handy

when patterning (especially when use with cork panels). 

They are used to secure overlapped layers of paper when we check to make sure our lines flow well as well as to transfer marks from one layer of paper to another. 

They are great when we move or add fullness (darts, flares, etc).

7. CORK PANELS

Most large stores that sell office/school supplies sell cork panels. 

They are meant to be used as bulletin boards without frames but it can be use as great work surface when we need to rotate our pattern pieces to move darts or add fullness.

8. FLEXIBLE MEASURING TAPE When making patterns

whether they are custom fit or you are working with a generic block/sloper – we will need to measure to determine the proper sizing, proper proportions, or ideal placement of certain aspects and details.

Keeping a flexible measuring tape handy will be an asset.

9. PATTERNING BOOK (NOT PICTURED)

There are several very good books for creating our own sewing patterns available in market.

There are a few different ways to approach patterning and we’ll have to figure out which techniques are best for our body type and working style.

PATTERN MAKING IN TODAY’S WORLD

 Pattern making today has become an easy job with the use of the computers.

Now-a-days different soft wares are available in the market to meet the needs of the manufacturers.

The different soft wares used are Gerber, Lectra, Tukatech , OptiTex etc.

These softwares has made the job of the Pattern master easier.

PATTERN MAKING IN TODAY’S WORLD

They have made the process of pattern making more economical and less time consuming.

Pattern-making soft wares enables you to input your measurements and draft out a pattern. These soft wares draft patterns to fit your measurements specifically, eliminating much fitting trial and error in the sewing room.

PATTERN MAKING IN TODAY’S WORLD

A pattern can be made from a 3D form in just a few steps by using these soft wares. An individual's measurements are collected from 3D body scanner. The measurements are used to create a virtual 3D model of the individual's body.

The 3D to 2D software allows the user to define a garment surface in relation to the 3D body model. Once the garment surface is defined, the application automatically unwraps and outputs a 2D flat pattern in .dxf format.

CONCLUSION

Although pattern making is becoming increasingly computerized, patternmakers still must learn the manual method because making patterns manually develops an advanced understanding of garment construction, knowledge that cannot yet be replaced by a computer.

READY-TO-WEAR

The flat patternmaking method is widely used in the ready-to-wear market because it is fast and accurate

REFERENCES

 Aldrich, Winifred. 1997, Metric Pattern Cutting. Blackwell Science Ltd U.K.

Armstrong H.J, 2000, Pattern Making for Fashion Design, Harper & row publishers, New York

Cooklin, G.1994, Pattern Cutting for Womens Outerwear

Hudson, P.B, 1980, The role of fit and Fashion on Apparel Quality, Bobbin.

Shoben, M.M and J.P. Ward, 1999, Pattern cutting and Making up, CBS Publishers, New Delhi

Helen Stanley, 1991, Flat pattern cutting & modeling for fashion, U.K

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Now Saima Habib will continuo