fabric construction

TOPICSTUDY OF FABRIC BEHAVIOR FOR DRESS

DESIGN EFFECTS REGARDING FABRIC CONSTRUCTION & PHYSICAL PRORERTIES

Prepared by Sarwat HalimaM Phil program

2013-2015

INTRODUCTION

• DRESS DESIGNINGWe have come across the word

“Design and designers” very often. We always wanted to know about the design professionals.

• Dress designing , is only one of the forms in which fashion finds expression. There are countless creators of form, or design.

INTRODUCTION

• FASHION DESIGNINGCreating or styling the

appearance of a person with reference to clothing, accessories and beauty in corresponding with the personality of any individual is fashion designing.

DRESS DESIGN

• Dress design is the applied art dedicated to the design o f clothing and lifestyle accessories created within the cultural and social influences of a specific time.

• A season in dress designing is defined as either autumn/ winter or spring/ summer.

• Fashion design is generally considered to have started in the 19th century with Charles Frederick Worth who was the first person to sew their label into the garments that they created.

DESIGNING A GARMENT

There are few important steps to design a garment, these are

1) The design2) Making a toile or muslin3) Making a card pattern4) The finished dress

DESIGNING A GARMENT

• The design: Different designers work in different ways.

• Some sketch their ideas on paper,

• others drape fabric on a dress stand, pinning, folding and tucking it until the idea for a garment emerges.

• A third method is to adapt their own patterns from previous seasons (this method can give continuity to a fashion studio's output).

DESIGNING A GARMENT

• Making a toile or muslin: After making a rough paper pattern, or life-size 2-D plan, of the garment, a sample machinist (or skilled sewing machine operator) then makes a trial version of the garment from plain-colored calico. The toile is put on to a dress stand (or a model) to see how it fits and whether it hangs properly.

DESIGNING A GARMENT

• Making a card pattern: When the designer is completely satisfied with the fit of the toile (or muslin), they show it to a professional pattern maker who then makes the finished, working version of the pattern out of card. The pattern maker's job is very painstaking. The fit of the finished garment depends on their accuracy.

DESIGNING A GARMENT

• The finished dress: Finally, a sample garment is made up in the proper fabric.

FOUR ESSENTIALS IN DRESS DESIGN

• We will see exactly what the designing of a dress involves—exactly what we must take into consideration.

1. The study of the structural lines of the human figure.2. The requirements of individual types. Suitability.3. The selection of materials, with reference to color,

texture and weave.4. Detail—which is ornamentation and shaping, and an

analysis of the laws of design embracing proportion, rhythm, harmony and the perfect balance of line, mass and color.

FOUR ESSENTIALS IN DRESS DESIGN

• In general the designing of garment for a different person can be classified in four

• categories.1. Choice of Material2. Choice of Color3. The Design or Structure4. Decoration

CHOICE OF MATERIAL

• The occasion for which the dress is planned,

• remember that stiff hard fabrics do not drape well and should be used where more tailored effects are desired.

CHOICE OF MATERIAL

• The selection of materials, for the large person should avoid stiff, wiry, hard surfaced materials as they seem to make one look stouter. Just as soft dull fabrics tend to reduce the appearance of size in a large person,

CHOICE OF MATERIAL

• The materials which do not cling to the figure tend to make the small, slender person appear larger.

• All of the material used in a particular dress should be of approximately the same quality; that is, avoid using cheap cotton material on a dress largely composed of very fine voile.

CHOICE OF MATERIAL• Some materials which are quite

different, such as certain wool fabrics, may be used with satin, or frequently spring or summer suits of wool are ornamented with linen.

• Combinations of this kind lend variety to the dress so that they are not too severely monotonous.

• The small person may look well in a dress made of such material, but even so it is desirable that the pattern or design of the goods is not too conspicuous.

CHOICE OF MATERIAL

• Large figured patterns in dress material just as in rugs, wall paper, etc., grow tiresome after a short time.

• Plain fabrics or materials having small figures giving a quiet effect can as a rule by safely worn by everyone.

Fabrics

• Textile fabrics can be produced directly from webs of fibers by bonding, fusing or interlocking to make non-woven fabrics and felts, but their physical properties tend to restrict their potential end-usage.

Fibre to Product Flow Chart

Fabric Construction

• Most fabrics are made by weaving or knitting yarns, although non-woven fabrics are made by bonding or felting fibres together.

• A fabric's appearance, properties and end use can be affected by the way it was constructed.

Major classification of Fabric Constructions

1. Woven Fabric2. Knitted fabric3. Laced fabric4. Woolen fabric5. Blended fabric6. Stitch through fabrics 7. Non woven fabrics8. Films9. Knotted fabric10. Braided fabrics

Major classification of Fabric Constructions

• Woven Fabrics• Woven fabrics are made by

using two or more sets of yarn interlaced at right angles to each other.

• They can be easily cut into different shapes and are excellent for producing styles in garments

• Woven fabrics are manufactured in different widths depending on the end use

Woven Fabric Construction

Woven fabrics are made up of a weft - the yarn going across the width of the fabric - and a warp - the yarn going down the length of the loom. The yarns are inter-locked together.

• The side of the fabric where the wefts are double-backed to form a non-fraying edge is called the selvedge.

Basic types of weaves

1. Plain Weave 2. Twill Weave 3. Satin Weave

Plain Weave Fabric

• In plain-weave fabric the warp and weft are aligned so that they form a simple criss-cross pattern.

• Plain-weave is strong and hardwearing, so it's used for fashion and furnishing fabrics.

Plain Weave Fabric

• Strong

• Hard-wearing

• Used For:

• Shirts, sheets

• Basketweave

Twill Weave Fabric

• In twill-weave fabric the crossings of weft and warp are offset to give a diagonal pattern on the fabric surface. It's strong, drapes well and is used for jeans, jackets and curtains.

Twill Weave Fabric

• Diagonal pattern

• strong

• drapes well

• Uses

• Jeans, chino, gabardine

• Curtains, canvas

Satin Weave Fabric• In satin-weave fabric there is a

complex arrangement of warp and weft threads, which allows longer float threads either across the warp or the weft. The long floats mean the light falling on the yarn doesn't scatter .

• The reflected light creates a smooth, lustrous (shiny) surface commonly called satin. The reverse side is invariably dull and non-shiny. Weave variations include jacquard and damask.

Satin Weave Fabric

• Weft yarns float

• Less stable than twill or plain

• Shiny effect

• Used for satin

Different types of weaves

• Jacquard:• Leno or Gauze:• Pile Fabric:

Jacquard Weave

• Jacquard patterns, when carefully analyzed, may be seen to contain combinations of plain, twill, and satin weaves, even in the same crosswise yarn.

• Household Uses:• Upholstery, wall

hangings

Leno or Gauze

• In leno or gauze weave A pair of warp threads is twisted over each other with each passing of filling yarn in a figure or an hourglass twist, creating a geometric pattern.

• Household Uses: Thermal Blankets, curtains

Pile Fabric

• Extra sets of warps or fillings are woven over ground yarns of plain or twill weave to form loops. Pile fabrics have been defined as fabrics(s) which stand up densely on the surface. They are

• with cut • uncut loops

Uncut Pile

• Loops are possible on both sides of fabric

• Soft and absorbent, relatively inexpensive

• Can snag if loops are caught

• Common Fabrics: Frieze, terry cloth

• Household Uses: Upholstery, towels, carpet, area rugs

Cut Pile

Soft and warm, resilient, absorbent

• May have a nap that must be matched

• May be expensive and need professional cleaning

• Method of Construction:• Similar to uncut pile, but

loops have been cut • Household uses:

Upholstery, stage draperies.

Woven Fabric Characteristics

• Oldest & widely used method of construction.• Done on a machine called handloom or power

loom.• Made with two or more sets of yarns

interlaced at right angles to each other.• Identification of grain.

Knitted Fabrics

• Knitting is the construction of an elastic Knitted fabrics

• Knitted fabric made much more quickly and easily than woven fabrics at comparatively less cost

• Knitted fabrics are generally light in weight, comfortable in wear even during travel,

Knitted Fabric Construction

• Knitted fabrics are made up of single or multiple lengths of continuous yarn on a knitting machine or with knitting needles.

• The yarns are inter-looped together.

• There are two types of knitted fabrics• weft-knitted • warp-knitted.

Weft Knitted Fabric• Weft-knitted fabric is made by

looping together long lengths of yarn. It can be made by hand or machine.

• The yarn runs in rows across

the fabric. If a stitch is dropped it will ladder down the length of the fabric.

• The fabric is stretchy and comfortable and is used for socks, T-shirts and jumpers.

Warp Knitted Fabric

• In warp-knitted fabric the loops interlock vertically along the length of the fabric.

• Warp knits are slightly stretchy and do not ladder.

• Warp-knitted fabric is made by machine. It is used for swimwear, underwear and geotextiles.

Laced Fabrics

• Lace is an open work fabric consisting of a network of threads or yarns formed into intricate designs. Laces are developed for beauty and adornment.

• They are manufactured in many widths, shapes and in limitless variety of patterns.

• Hand made laces are more expensive than machine made laces.

• Laces are produced either in the form of a fabric or in a shape suited for a particular end use. They are mostly used as trimmings, on apparels and home furnishings.

Laced Fabrics

• Trimming Laces: A wide variety of patterns are available in laces used for trimmings. They are produced having narrow width ranging from 1 cm or less width. They are available at various costs and certainly with in the range of average consumer. They are used as decorative materials, apparels and other household materials.

• Nylon Net Laces: Generally these fabrics contains a net back ground on which embroidery is done.

Woolen fabrics

• Woolen fabrics are made from woolen yarn over wide range.

• These are generally made in plain weave and sometimes in twill weave.

• They are loosely woven fabrics. They are characterized by extreme softness and not very durable when compared to worsted.

• These fabrics are used for men’s coat

Blended Fabrics

• It is important to observe that production of staple yarn is not limited to composition from one kind of fiber the staple of two or more kinds of fibers may be combined for blended at different stages.

• When different types of fibers are blended, the properties of these fibers are also combined in the blended yarns.

• Textile composites are generally used for high technology products for industry, the military and aerospace.

Worsted fabric

• Worsted's are woven from long tightly twisted fibers of 2-8" in length these fibers are usually woven in to a design or in twill weave, and are given a smooth finish which brings out the luster of the fabric and the design of the weave.

• Bread cloth and light weighted flannels are examples of fabrics made with worst

Films

• Since films are not considered to be true textiles. They are sometimes laminated to textiles and therefore may be part of the structure of some textile products.

• They are synthetic polymers extruded in the form of sheets rather than as fibers.

• In some cases, these films are eventually made into fibrous form by a process called fibrillation or by cutting the sheet into fibers.

Non Woven

• Masses of fibers can be held together into a fabric by interlocking of fibers by mechanical action or by fusing fibers together with heat, adhesive or chemicals. Examples of a few fabrics constructed by these means include felt, bark cloth, spun lace, spun bonded and needle-punched fab

Knotted Fabrics

• Some fabrics are created by knotting yarns together. Lace, nets, macrame and tatting are produce by knotting.

Braided Fabrics

• Braided Fabrics may be created by plaiting together yarns or strips of fabrics. The components are interlaced in a diagonal pattern over under one another to form a flat or tubular fabric of relatively narrow width.

THANK YOU

References

• Variation of weaves from textile manufacturing technique by Rai university.

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