fabric construction
DESCRIPTION
HNC3O Fashion and Creative ExpressionTRANSCRIPT
Fabric Construction
Ms. Collishaw
HNC3O, Glebe CI
May 2010
Yarn Twist
High Twist Yarn
Firm, strong, dull, fine
Low Twist Yarn
Soft, weak, lustrous, bulky
Texturing
Filament yarns can be textured to:
•Add bulk
•Improve stretch & recovery
•Improve wrinkle resistance
•Improve wicking
•Prevent static
Mainly used with manufactured fibres
Weaving 101
True Bias
Grain of F
abric
Selvage
Shuttle holds weft yarn
Loom holds warp yarns
Warp Yarn Weft Yarn
Fabric will fray along unfinished or cut edge
Plain Weave
•Strong
•Hard-wearing
Used For:
•Shirts, sheets
•Diagonal pattern
•strong
•drapes well
Uses
•Jeans, chino, gabardine
•Curtains, canvas
Twill Weave
Satin Weave
•Weft yarns float
• Less stable than twill or plain
•Shiny effect
Used for satin
Other Weaves
Basket Weave
Pile Weave – carpets, velvet, corduroy
Ribbed weave
Jacquard Weave
Socks, tights, T-shirts and
sweaters
Knit Fabrics
Yarns looped together
Creates stretchy fabric
Can run if loop is dropped
Bonded Fabrics
Felt is the most common bonded fabric
Fibres are pressed together using steam and/or heat
Will not fray or run
Interfacing, a bonded fabric, is used in collars and waistbands
Fabric Characteristics
Construction – weaving, knit, bonded
Texture – smooth, rough, dull, shiny, nubby, fuzzy
Hand – soft, firm, stiff, crisp
Weight – very light to very heavy
Testing Fabric Characteristics
Drapability
Strength
Air Permeability
Shape Retention
Cover
Wrinkle Resistance