fabric construction

Fabric Construction

Ms. Collishaw

HNC3O, Glebe CI

May 2010

Yarn Twist

High Twist Yarn

Firm, strong, dull, fine

Low Twist Yarn

Soft, weak, lustrous, bulky

Texturing

Filament yarns can be textured to:

•Add bulk

•Improve stretch & recovery

•Improve wrinkle resistance

•Improve wicking

•Prevent static

Mainly used with manufactured fibres

Weaving 101

True Bias

Grain of F

abric

Selvage

Shuttle holds weft yarn

Loom holds warp yarns

Warp Yarn Weft Yarn

Fabric will fray along unfinished or cut edge

Plain Weave

•Strong

•Hard-wearing

Used For:

•Shirts, sheets

•Diagonal pattern

•strong

•drapes well

Uses

•Jeans, chino, gabardine

•Curtains, canvas

Twill Weave

Satin Weave

•Weft yarns float

• Less stable than twill or plain

•Shiny effect

Used for satin

Other Weaves

Basket Weave

Pile Weave – carpets, velvet, corduroy

Ribbed weave

Jacquard Weave

Socks, tights, T-shirts and

sweaters

Knit Fabrics

Yarns looped together

Creates stretchy fabric

Can run if loop is dropped

Bonded Fabrics

Felt is the most common bonded fabric

Fibres are pressed together using steam and/or heat

Will not fray or run

Interfacing, a bonded fabric, is used in collars and waistbands

Fabric Characteristics

Construction – weaving, knit, bonded

Texture – smooth, rough, dull, shiny, nubby, fuzzy

Hand – soft, firm, stiff, crisp

Weight – very light to very heavy

Testing Fabric Characteristics

Drapability

Strength

Air Permeability

Shape Retention

Cover

Wrinkle Resistance