SURVEY OF APPAREL DESIGN

TERM PROJECT

DESIGNER PROFILE: ALEXANDER McQUEEN

FACULTY: Ms. Bhavna K. Verma

SUBMITTED BY:

PARUL SAGAR

D/BFT-AP/09/19

F.P.TECH

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ALEXANDER MCQUEENAlexander McQueen was born Lee McQueen, on March 17th 1969. He is one of the most influential British designers of our time. He has mastered 6 methods of pattern cutting from the melodramatic 16th Century to the brutally sharp tailoring which has become a McQueen signature.

Alexander McQueen shows are known for their emotional power and raw energy, as well as the romantic but determinedly contemporary nature of the collections. Integral to the McQueen culture is the juxtaposition between contrasting elements: fragility and strength, tradition and modernity, fluidity and severity.

An openly emotional and even passionate viewpoint is realised with a profound respect and influence for the arts and crafts tradition. Alexander's collections combine an in-depth working knowledge of bespoke British tailoring, the fine workmanship of the French Haute Couture atelier and the impeccable finish of Italian manufacturing.

In less than 10 years McQueen became one of the most respected fashion designers in the world. In October 1996 he was appointed Chief Designer at the French Haute Couture House Givenchy where he worked until March of 2001.

In December 2000, 51% of Alexander McQueen was acquired by the Gucci Group, where he remained Creative Director. Collections include womens ready-to-wear, mens ready-to-wear, accessories, eyewear and fragrance (Kingdom 2003 and MyQueen 2005). Expansion followed and included the opening of flagship stores in New York, London, Milan, Las Vegas and Los Angeles.

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USP

Alexander McQueen shows are known for their emotional power and raw energy, as well as the romantic but determinedly contemporary nature of the collections. Integral to the McQueen culture is the juxtaposition between contrasting elements: fragility and strength, tradition and modernity, fluidity and severity. An openly emotional and even passionate viewpoint is realised with a profound respect and influence for the arts and crafts tradition. Alexander's collections combine an in-depth working knowledge of bespoke British tailoring, the fine workmanship of the French Haute Couture atelier and the impeccable finish of Italian manufacturing.

CAREER

Alexander McQueen left school at the age of 16 with a single O-Level and worked for a time clearing glasses in his uncle’s pub. He completed his A-Level in Art at night-school at West Hampton Technical College before being offered an apprenticeship at the revered Savile Row tailors Anderson & Shepherd. Here he learnt the intricacies of cutting jackets before moving up the street to Gieves & Hawkes, to apply and develop these skills to trousers. It was here that that the anti-establishment McQueen legend began, when he famously scrawled obscenities in tailor’s chalk in the inner-lining of a jacket destined for the heir to the throne, Prince Charles.

He moved to the theatrical costumiers Angels & Bermans to work on productions for big musical shows like Les Miserables, while continuing to master the skills of pattern-cutting – including techniques from earlier centuries that are evident in his work today. He then went to work for London-based designer Koji Tatsuno, then backed by Yohji Yamamoto, before moving to Milan to work with his hero, Romeo Gigli. This was in the late 1980s when Gigli was still enjoying the media hyperbole that had propelled him into the limelight. McQueen was undoubtedly influenced by the power of the press machine he witnessed in Milan, and convinced of its contribution to a designer’s success.

In 1990, when Gigli separated from his friends and business partners Donato Maiano and Carla Sozzani, McQueen returned to London where he sought

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work teaching pattern-cutting at Central Saint Martins College of Art & Design. Instead of a job, he was offered a place on the MA design course, his drive and impressive curriculum vitae making up for his lack of formal qualifications. With a loan from his Aunt Renée he completed his MA in 1992 and sold his graduate collection to the influential stylist Isabella Blow who went on to become his muse, patron and unofficial public relations agent.

McQueen immediately established his own label with a small collection presented at the Bluebird Garage on the King’s Road, Chelsea. It was here that his signature “bumsters” – jeans cut just above the pubic bone to reveal the cleft of the buttocks behind – made their first appearance.

Givenchy appointment

In October 1996, at the age of 27 and having produced only eight collections, McQueen was appointed Designer-in-Chief at Givenchy in Paris, replacing John Galliano, who went to sister label Christian Dior. Givenchy brought the backing of luxury conglomerate Louis Vuitton Moet Hennessy and enabled McQueen to continue developing his own label. A turbulent four-and-a-half years at Givenchy began with disappointing reviews of his first Haute Couture collection in 1997. Fond journalists, mostly French, demanded that McQueen’s uncompromising avant-garde designs be softened to meet for the house whose most famous muse was Audrey Hepburn.

Association with the Gucci group

In 2001 McQueen again made the headlines with the controversial move of selling a 51 percent share of his label to the rival Gucci Group. Their financial backing and insightful decision to encourage rather than suppress McQueen’s talents made the label an international brand.

Today, McQueen has flagship stores in New York, Milan, London and LA; an accessories collection a menswear collection; and eyewear.

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ACCOMPLISHMENTSCamilla Belle in a 2009 dress by Alexander McQueen, listed among "100 Best Dresses of the Decade" by InStyle Magazine.

The following awards have recognized Alexander McQueen’s achievement in fashion:

British Designer of the year 1996, 1997, 2001, and 2003

International Designer of the Year by The Council of Fashion Designer's of America (CFDA) in 2003

A Most Excellent Commander of The British Empire’ (CBE) by her Majesty the Queen in 2003

GQ Menswear Designer of the Year in 2007

December 2000 saw a new partnership for McQueen, with the Gucci Group acquiring 51% of his company and McQueen serving as Creative Director. Plans for expansion included the opening of stores in London, Milan and New York, and the launch of his perfumes Kingdom and, most recently, My Queen. In 2005 McQueen collaborated with Puma to create a special line of trainers for the shoe brand. In 2006 he launched McQ, a younger, more renegade lower priced line for men and women.

McQueen became the first designer to participate in MAC's promotion of cosmetic releases created by fashion designers. The collection, McQueen, was released on 11 October 2007 and reflected the looks used on the Autumn/Winter McQueen catwalk. The inspiration for the collection was the Elizabeth Taylor movie Cleopatra, and thus the models sported intense blue, green, and teal eyes with strong black liner extended Egyptian-style. McQueen handpicked the makeup.

By the end of 2007, Alexander McQueen had boutiques in London, New York, Los Angeles, Milan and Las Vegas. Celebrity patrons, including Nicole Kidman, Penélope Cruz, Sarah Jessica Parker and Rihanna, have frequently been spotted wearing Alexander McQueen clothing to events. Bjork and Lady Gaga have often incorporated Alexander McQueen pieces in their music videos.

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DESIGN DEVELOPMENT

ALEXANDER MCQUEEN (1969 - 2010) burst onto the fashion stage in 1992, courting controversy as headlines hailed him as the new enfant terrible. Though contentious and frequently misunderstood, he established the fashion label that is now internationally acclaimed and coveted without compromising his approach.

From the start of his career McQueen has both shocked and delighted his audience with raw presentations often depicting bleak history and anarchic politics. These shock tactics began in dimly-lit warehouses away from the staid environment of the London Fashion Week tents. His autumn/winter 1995 catwalk show in particular captured the headlines. Entitled Highland Rape, the collection featured dishevelled and battered-looking models in torn clothing. It was McQueen’s comment on the rape of the Highlands at the hands of the British; interpreted by others as a perverse and misogynistic celebration of the sexual violation of women. His spring/summer 1997 collection, La Poupee, featured a black model whose movements were restrained by a metal cage attached to her limbs, hit the headlines again. Inspired by the German puppet-master Hans Bellmer, the rusty contraption was designed to evoke a marionette; inevitably, again, some of the press saw bondage, slavery and the subordination of women.

McQueen’s flair for showmanship has led him to be celebrated as much for outrageous theatricality as for the unique combination of aggressive tailoring and lyrical romanticism in his clothes. As the stature of the McQueen name grew, so did the twice-yearly spectacle. His weird and whimsical catwalk narratives have included models encircled in flames, drenched in rainstorms or spun like music-box dolls on revolving circles in the floor. The shows are inspired by cult films by Stanley Kubrick, Pier Paolo Pasolini and Alfred Hitchock, or by the dark photographs of Joel-Peter Witkin. It is Witkin’s work which inspired McQueen’s spring/summer 2001 show. Models staggered around, trapped in a mirrored box that obscured their view of the audience. Their bandaged heads and confused expressions evoked disease both physical and psychological. The spectacle ended as the walls of the glass box shattered to the floor to reveal an obese model wearing nothing but a gas mask, surrounded by hundreds of moths.

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COLLECTION TIMELINE: 1994-2009

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CROWNING FASHION MOMENTS

The Highland Rape Collection

Favouring an aggressive, rebellious approach to design, one of his first defining collections came in 1995 – instantly shooting him to the top of all 'one to watch' lists. The provocative Highland Rape collection featured a head-turning fusion of tattered dresses, bloodstained models and typically-daring sheer pieces - all inspired by his Scottish ancestry, and thrown together with remnants from fabric shops.

Bumsters

Just as women were embracing hipster trousers in 1995, the ever boundary-pushing McQueen urged them to go one-step further. Enter, the Bumsters. Lower than should be acceptable, the cheek-flashing waistline was in the style of a builder’s slouchy jeans – but infinitely more stylish, naturally. An iconic McQueen look if ever there was one.

Theatrical Catwalks

As everyone waited to see how he'd follow up the much-talked about Highland Rape collection, McQueen ensured he didn't disappoint, with an equally mould-breaking show in 1996. To the surprise of his catwalk audience, his models splashed down a runway covered in water.

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British Designer of the Year

In 1996 Alexander McQueen became the youngest designer in history to win a British Designer of the Year Award, and would collect the title a further three times by 2003.

Givenchy

McQueen was named the successor to John Galliano as the head designer at Givenchy in 1996. He quickly earned the title 'L'enfant terrible' by promptly dismissing the label’s founder, Hubert de Givenchy, as 'irrelevant'. Despite initial collections gaining unfavourable reviews, McQueen would stay at the design house until 2001, when he left claiming the fashion house was 'constraining his creativity'.

Aimee Mullins models

He caused controversy in autumn 1998 with a show which included double amputee model Aimee Mullins striding down the catwalk on intricately carved wooden legs. His use of the unconventional model was a feature that stayed with him throughout his career, part of his quest to constantly provoke thought and push boundaries.

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Spray Paint Surprise

As if his epic catwalk spectaculars couldn't get any more unpredictable, McQueen had jaws hitting the floor once again during his Spring/Summer 1999 show. Model Shalom Harlow walked the runway at the beginning of the show in a plain white strapless gown - but for the finale was spray-painted live on stage, with machines taken from a car manufacturing plant.

Winter wonderland

The runway was transformed into a winter wonderland for Autumn/Winter 1999, as the models walked the catwalk surrounded by a magical blizzard of perspex snow.

Alexander McQueen CBE

In 2003, Alexander McQueen was granted an honour to cement him forever in the British history books, as Queen Elizabeth presented the designer with a CBE for his contribution to the fashion industry.

We Love You Kate

Alexander McQueen was very friendly with Kate Moss: the two had had a longstanding working relationship but got on well together on a personal level too. McQueen demonstrated his support for Moss after a cocaine scandal, which hit British tabloids in 2005. Kate lost contracts with some big designer names, but Alexander McQueen strode out at the end of his fashion

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show wearing a T-shirt with the legend 'We love you Kate' emblazoned across the front.

Kate Moss Hologram

Kate Moss was again the star of McQueen's Autumn/Winter 2006 show - but she wasn't there in person. The supermodel appeared as a huge ghostly hologram floating over the catwalk, much to the amazement of the audience.

Skull Scarves

One of his more wearable creations, McQueen's skull-print scarves gained a cult following in 2006, being seen on everyone from Nicole Richie, to Naomi Campbell and Lindsay Lohan.

A tribute to Isabella Blow

Following the death of Isabella Blow in May 2007, McQueen made his Spring/Summer 2008 collection a tribute to his friend and mentor. The invites to the show were poster-size illustrations depicting Isabella in a McQueen dress and Philip Treacy head piece, in a horse-drawn carriage ascending to heaven. If his audience were expecting a sombre, dark collection, they were, of course, sadly mistaken. A celebration of life, the catwalk was awash with bright colours and followed a bird theme, featuring highlights from throughout his career.

Striking Sillhouettes

His designs were always interesting and experimental, and he played with textures and fabrics to create stunning sillhouettes. McQueen was also known for his pioneering

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work with prints, taking inspiration from the insect world for his Spring/Summer 2009 collection.

Show-stopping designs

It's possibly an understatement to say that his shows were never dull, and fashion journalists, stylists and magazine editors alike crammed in to get a good look at the designs they knew they'd be talking about in the coming months.

Couture-feel creations

Many of the striking creations in his Autumn/Winter 2009 show made it seem more like a couture collection than a ready-to-wear.

Going Digital

His most recent Spring/Summer 2010 collection was entitled Plato's Atlantis, and inspired by his vision of a future ecological meltdown. Always wanting to be the very

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first to experiment with the newest technologies and ideas, the show was streamed live across the internet in a real pioneering fashion moment.

A-list Muses

Celebrities flocked to wear McQueen's designs, with A-list fans ranging from Cate Blanchett to Rihanna, Anna Paquin, Cameron Diaz and Kate Bosworth – to name merely a few. Many of these star muses also became friends of the designer, including Sarah Jessica Parker, who he accompanied to the Costume Institute Gala back in 2006. The suitably coordinating pair were both clad naturally in McQueen, with SJP rocking a tartan-bedecked tulle prom dress.

Beth Ditto

The designer used his extraordinary talents to create brilliant pieces that made an impact on everyone who saw them. Poster girl for the larger lady, Beth Ditto acted as something of a muse for McQueen throughout 2008.

Lady Gaga

Most recently, the late designer struck up a notable partnership with Lady Gaga, one of the few people who would actually dare to wear some of his most dramatic designs. For his part, McQueen had the models in his S/S 2010 collection storming down the runway to the sound of La Ga. In return, she showcased several pieces from the collection in her Bad Romance video – including those formidable 12-inch Armadillo shoes.

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BRANDS

The Alexander McQueen collection was launched in April 2004. The brand, belonging to the Gucci Group, aims to encompass creativity and innovation, even through the use of exclusive colours and innovative materials such as wood and lace.

It mainly targets women aged between 25 and 45, and is placed in the luxury segment. Alexander McQueen eyewear is sold all over the world, chiefly in

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Europe and Asia. The ‘Alexander McQueen’ brand is distributed in 48 countries worldwide and notably in its three flagship stores in London, New York and Milan.

McQ

Alexander McQueen announced plans to launch a denim-based ready-to-wear line under a new label, 'McQ – Alexander McQueen ' on November 04, 2005. The project materialized worldwide for the Autumn-Winter 2006 season.

The 'McQ' collections included both men's and women's ready-to-wear and accessories and were exclusively designed by Alexander McQueen. The new collections allowed Alexander McQueen's internationally acclaimed design ethos to reach a much wider audience whilst complementing the brand’s existing highly successful main line collections of luxury ready-to-wear and accessories.

Alexander McQueen commented: "I am very excited about this partnership, which will add a new and inspiring dimension to the McQueen world. The focus of this collection will be younger and more renegade but always signature McQueen.”

COLLABORATIONS

Alexander McQueen PUMA

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The metaphoric concept of ‘Power’ is the DNA of the new collection. Physical and mental power exist at the very core of sport and the collection strives to interpret and convey ‘Power’ in innovative and unexpected ways. With ‘Power’ as a constant reference, each season’s collection will also have a specific seasonal theme related to sport. The Spring/Summer 20010 seasonal theme is ‘Martial Arts’ — a sport with power at its essence, referenced in style, color and material applications.

Unexpected and unique, Alexander McQueen PUMA defines a new provocative horizon in Sport Fashion. Founded on the union of tradition and technology, the collection juxtaposes influences delivering a visually contemporary line that is conceptually sophisticated, powerful and intricately crafted.

Alexander McQueen & Shaun Leane

Shaun Leane’s continuing work for Alexander McQueen has demanded bigger and more elaborate jewellery creations, creating objects of imposing beauty which push the boundaries of possibility, defying the traditional expectations

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of modern jewellery. Shaun Leane has developed designs which fuse flesh and moulded metal into one harmonious entity.

McQ Alexander McQueen for Target

Target partnered with designer Alexander McQueen for his McQ line to launch Target Designer Collaborations, a unique program that features well-established designers who draw inspiration from a collaborative partner, muse or creative element. The exclusive McQ Alexander McQueen for Target collection draws inspiration from British rock band The Duke Spirit, and was launched on Target.com and at select Target stores nationwide on March 4, 2009. The collection was available through April 14, 2009.

“Alexander McQueen is an incredible talent and his McQ line is the perfect premier brand for the new phase of designer partnerships at Target,” said Trish Adams, senior vice president, Target. “His music-inspired collection is fashion-forward with a rock ‘n’ roll twist, providing sophisticated looks at a great value.”

Known for its potent mix of rebel edge, creativity and technical mastery, McQ Alexander McQueen for Target collection was inspired by youth subcultures, music, rebellion and style revolution. These qualities are epitomized by Liela Moss, lead singer of The Duke Spirit. Moss serves as McQ’s muse for a collection that exudes a rock ‘n’ roll-punk vibe and hip-brit accents.

An exclusive “The Duke Spirit CD” was sold alongside the McQ Alexander McQueen for Target collection. The special compilation CD was also sold in the Entertainment area at all Target stores, as well as on Target.com beginning February 24, 2009.

The McQ Alexander McQueen for Target collection, the first Designer Collaboration, celebrates the fusion of fashion and music at affordable prices and makes designer fashion available to women everywhere.

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ALEXANDER Mcqueen AND SAMSONITE

The Samsonite Black Label by Alexander McQueen turned out to be an awesomely ergonomic collection, which features everything right from natural curves and shapes down to the vibrant revolutionary luggage designs.Samsonite has always made profitable deals in past and picking Alexander McQueen – probably the most influential fashion designer in the world, was never going to be a questionable decision by any means.

While Samsonite has a concrete rapport of over 97 years, the McQueen is known for its juxtaposition of latest technology with tradition, romantic ideas, natural beauty, edgy tailoring, artistic creations and the best of everything featuring futuristic aesthetic designs.

This lovely collection features hardside pieces of faux crocodile, a leather travel wallet, overnight bag, cosmetic pouch, computer bag, a crocodile print passport holder, several other products in the range along with a unique TSA lock.

Looking at one of the hot options in the range, AI2 Upright is a trendy bag that comes with U-zip pocket, zipped protective cover as well as interior cross straps. It also features leather carry

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handles, carry-on size and is currently available in vivid colours from black bone.

COLLECTIONSAlexander McQueen Spring/Summer 2010

Alexander McQueen continues his reign as the most innovative designer in fashion currently with his Spring/Summer 2010 collection. Teaming up with Lady Gaga, who premiered her new single "Bad Romance" at the show, and broadcasting his show live on the web, McQueen continues to redefine the fashion show.

The clothes themselves are, as usual, thought-provoking and exquisite. Reptilian and sea-born, iridescent scales and aquatic colors defines the collection. According to Sarah Mower of style.com, the official press release for the collection said that it was "an apocalyptic forecast of the future ecological meltdown of the world: Humankind is made up of creatures that evolved from the sea, and we may be heading back to an underwater future as the ice cap dissolves."

McQueen certainly captures that in short dresses that capture marine life as well as patterns that make the models look as if their coloring is sending a warning -- albeit a stunning one -- much as many creatures do in the wild. The shapes range from voluminous and bubbly to stiffly structured like coral or fins; it isn't anything out of the ordinary for "edgy" fashion but combined with the prints and other details it makes for mindblowing apparel.

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The shoes are nearly as insane as Nina Ricci's Fall 2009 footwear, intricately made (and seemingly impossible to wear practically). The designs reinforce the reptilian and aquatic nature of the show, while adding typical McQueen over-the-top flair.

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The other details made the show as fantastical and awe-inspiringly beauitful as it was. The hair had almost a galatic feel, imitating fins and reptilian bone structure, and evidences McQueen's relationship with Lady Gaga, who always styles her hair in the most eccentric ways. The craftsmanship is gorgeous, per usual, and the dresses truly do look as if they have scales or other aquatic enhancements while still remaining feminine.

FRENCH FASHION WEEK COLLECTION

Alexander McQueen stole the other Paris designers’ thunder on Tuesday with a darkly beautiful pret-a-porter collection that couldn’t help reminding the viewer of just how grand fashion can be.

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That the eccentric Englishman managed to outshine other Paris designers was a feat considering Tuesday included displays by heavy-hitters Chanel and Valentino — which both sent out strong collections that remained true to their heritage.

Chanel delivered dark tweed suits dressed up with removable frills, while Valentino’s new design duo served up impeccable 1960s glamour.

Another eccentric, France’s Jean-Charles de Castelbajac, also delivered a wildly inventive collection, his featuring the Muppets — with Fozzie Bear-emblazoned suits and a rock star shag coat made from stuffed Kermit the Frogs.

But none could rival McQueen, whose darkly ingenious and bizarrely sublime show garnered cheers, hoops and whistles of approval from the

normally tepid fashion crowd.

Paris’s winter 2010 ready-to-wear shows continue Wednesday with displays by Kenzo, Hermes, John Galliano and red-carpet favorite Elie Saab.

A dress made entirely from slick black feathers, with oversized bouffant sleeves sculpted to suggest a swan hurtling into flight. A cocktail dress with a bust made of a jumble of leather straps and a full skirt of tight looping ruffles with a garbage-bag black sheen.

These were pieces that cried out to be worn — with extravagance and wild abandon — but probably belonged more in a museum than in a closet. It was fashion as art — wearable art to be lusted after.

Working with a palette of graphic black, red and white, the McQueen took tactful staples like the skirt suit and the strapless cocktail dress and pushed them beyond the boundaries of politeness.

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He nipped the New Look suit’s wasp-waist even further, inflated its square shoulders and fluffed up the crinoline skirts. He padded the cascading train of a strapless evening gown until its skirts turned into a sort of bean bag that the model struggled to shuffle around the runway.

The black and white houndstooth checks that opened the show gave way to a red and black M.C. Escher-inspired print of ducks in flight that morph into houndstooth. McQueen also heaped on metalwork-studded hardware and feathers.

Hats made from open umbrellas, lampshades or a sculpture of found objects wrapped in clear plastic film topped off the looks.

Models, their faces covered in white and their mouths an oversized smear of red lipstick, picked their way around a huge pile of stylized rubbish in the middle of the catwalk and stopping in front of the photographers, leered.

It was beauty transformed into ugliness and then back into beauty again.

HANDBAGS

Alexander McQueen Handbags are well known all over the world for its exquisite designs and wide range of choices. Each bag is meticulously handcrafted keeping the taste of fashion conscious women in mind. Alexander McQueen Handbags are available in a wide range of colors and designs which have been appreciated and accepted by many.

They give a sense of individuality and fashion to the user. Along with handbags, the company also manufactures an elite line up of footwear products. Infusing knowledge of British tailoring, Alexander McQueen Handbags are made by the best experts in the industry who have significant years of experience in their fields of specialization. Every Alexander McQueen Handbag displays the magnificent craftsmanship that goes beyond its manufacture.

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MORE McQUEEN CREATIONS

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BIBLIOGRAPHYBOOKS

Who’s Who In Fashion

Century Of The Designers, Charlotte Seeling

WEBSITES

http://www.emoda.com/blog/?s=alexander+mc+queen

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http://www.vam.ac.uk/collections/fashion/fashion_motion/mcqueen_leane/index.html

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