a collection of my best gemstone faceting designs … · 2020. 6. 5. · all renderings are using...

A COLLECTION OF MY BEST

GEMSTONE FACETINGDESIGNS VOLUME 1

HIGH REFRACTIVE INDEX SUPPLEMENT

ANDREW IAN BROWN

Copyright © Andrew Ian Brown, 2019All rights reserved.

The author and publisher of “A collection of my best Gemstone Faceting Designs Volume 1 High Refractive Index Supplement” make no warranties, express or implied, concerning the designs and techniques set forth in these materials. No representations are made concerning the validity of any design described here-in. The author has made every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information within this book was correct at time of publication. The author hereby disclaims all liability, including consequential damages which may result from using these materials and any liability to any party for any loss, damage or disruption caused by errors or omissions. Whether such errors or omissions result from accident, negligence, or any other cause. Persons who use these materials do so at their own risk.

This work may not be translated, copied, or reproduced in any form, by any electronic or mechanical means, including information storage and retrieval systems, without permission in writing from the author.

Frosted Designs ............................ 2Butterfly ................................................. 3Peace .................................................... 3Faerie Star ............................................. 4Elven Star .............................................. 4

Round Designs .............................. 5Longhorns .............................................. 6Tristar Brilliance ...................................... 6Around Oddity ........................................ 7Seven Steps ........................................... 7Easy Seven ............................................ 8Broken Hearts ........................................ 8Supernova .............................................. 9Depentastar ............................................ 9Standard Seven 96 ............................... 10Warp Speed ........................................ 10Twenty One Seven ................................11Trifectancy.............................................11Decadence ........................................... 12Fractal Flow .......................................... 12Thermal Uplift ....................................... 13Simplicity .............................................. 13

Square Designs ........................... 14Neon Lights .......................................... 15Classic Fusion ...................................... 15Fusion 49 ............................................. 16Quadraoptic Weave .............................. 16Pirate Treasure ..................................... 17Breezy Cushion .................................... 17Birthday Box ......................................... 18

Heart Designs ............................... 19Heartbeat ............................................. 20Soul Rhythm ......................................... 20

Trillion Designs ............................ 21Cosmic Mix .......................................... 22Time Portal ........................................... 22Tristar Impact ....................................... 23Eternal Protection ................................. 23

Pear Designs ................................. 24Sweet Strawberry ................................. 25Light Bulb ............................................. 25Starry Starry Pear ................................. 26

Oval Designs ................................. 27Xoval 1.19 ........................................... 28Stepovaler 1.23.................................... 28Fusion Seven Oval 1.12 ........................ 29Fusion Seven Oval 1.19 ........................ 29Fusion Seven Oval 1.30 ........................ 30Fusion Seven Oval 1.43 ........................ 30Fusion Nine Oval 1.10 ........................... 31Fusion Nine Oval 1.18 ........................... 31Fusion Nine Oval 1.32 ........................... 32Fusion Nine Oval 1.42 ........................... 32

Rectangular Designs ................. 33Timeless Gift ........................................ 34Lace Pillow ........................................... 34Starlight Divide ..................................... 35Sweet Dreams ...................................... 35Magic Carpet ........................................ 36Easy Fusion Rect Cushion ..................... 36

Hexagonal Designs .................... 37Hexamesh ........................................... 38Hexafusion Seven ................................. 38Trivergence .......................................... 39

Other Designs............................... 40Diamond Nine ....................................... 41Stargazing ............................................ 41Octafusion Nine .................................... 42

Contents

1

Foreword

If you are reading this you have most likely purchased a copy of my book ‘A collection of my best Gemstone Faceting Designs Volume 1’. Thank you for purchasing my book. I hope you are enjoying cutting my designs.

You will notice in my designs book volume 1, the recommend refractive index (RI) ranges have a maximum of 2.16. This was largely due to me only cutting materials with an RI below 2.16 and it does not reflect the true range of RI the designs are suit for.

After receiving questions about the designs and how suitable they would be to cut using higher RI materials I have checked the optimization of each design up to a maximum RI of 2.45. The majority of the designs will work well with no angle changes. The remaining designs I have now optimized to suit a higher RI range.

In the following supplement I have presented each design with: a rendering at RI = 2.30, new angles where applicable and a new recommend RI range. All renderings are using 10 degrees of head shadow.

I hope you find this supplement helpful and enjoy cutting some of my designs in high RI materials.

If you have any questions, you can contact me at [email protected].

2

Frosted Designs

3

Design InformationPavilion facets 65Girdle facets 32Crown facets 32+1Total facets 130Index gear 96Symmetry 1-fold

mirror imageRI range 1.54 to 2.40

L/W = 1.000 T/W = 0.829U/W = 0.829 P/W = 0.451C/W = 0.073 V/W3 = 0.197

Andrew Brown - May 2019Butterfly AIB001

RI = 2.30 rendered without frosting



L/W = 1.000 T/W = 0.836U/W = 0.836 P/W = 0.446C/W = 0.070 V/W3 = 0.191

Andrew Brown - May 2019Peace AIB002

RI = 2.30

Comment:Cut with no changes to angles upto RI 2.40


4

C1

C2C4

T

<96> 6

12

18

24

30

36

424854

60

66

72

78

84

90

LT

C

P

U

W P1

G1

G2

G3

P2

P4

P5

Size DataL/W 1.018 P/W 0.471H/W 0.614 C/W 0.117

V/W^3 0.203 P/C 4.019

Design DataR.I. range 1.54 - 2.16Size range 8 - 30 mmSymmetry 1-fold, mirrorIndex gear 96

Shape Heart

CrownC1 38.00 10-22-42-54-74-86 Set girdle widthC2 37.00 14-18-46-50-78-82 Meet C1, G1, G2[G3 48, girdle not level]C3 57.00 29-35-61-67 Level girdle, meet G1, G4, C1C4 20.00 10-22-42-54-74-86 Meet C1, C3 [cut 10, 86 meet C2, C4]T 0.00 Table Meet C2, C4

Pavilion facets 26 Pavilion tiers 5Girdle facets 15 Girdle tiers 4Crown facets 22+1 Crown tiers 4+1Total facets 64 Total tiers 14

Facet Data

G4P3

C3C3

PF1 49.40 14-18-46-50-78-82 Preform form TCP, replaced by P2

G2[G3 41

P1 47.35 10-22-42-54-74-86 Meet TCPG1 90.00 10-22-42-54-74-86 Set size, meet PF1, P1G2 90.00 14-18-78-82 Meet G1, PF1, P1G3 90.00 48 Meet G1, PF1, P1P2 47.15 14-18-46-50-78-82 Meet G1, G2[G3 46, 50], P1P3 46.92 23-41-55-73 Meet , 55], P1, P2G4 90.00 29-35-61-67 Meet G1, P1, P3P4 57.00 29-35-61-67 Level girdle, meet G1, G4, P1, P3P5 46.50 15-17-47-49-79-81 Meet G1, P2, form CP [cut 47, 49 last meet CP]

Pavilion

Favourite Heart



L/W = 1.00 T/W = 0.798U/W = 0.778 P/W = 0.483C/W = 0.106 V/W3 = 0.257

Faerie StarAndrew Brown - May 2019

AIB003

RI = 2.30


C1

C2C4

T

<96> 6

12

18

24

30

36

424854

60

66

72

78

84

90

LT

C

P

U

W P1

G1

G2

G3

P2

P4

P5


V/W^3 0.203 P/C 4.019


Shape Heart



Facet Data

G4P3

C3C3


G2[G3 41


Pavilion

Favourite Heart



L/W = 1.003 T/W = 0.760U/W = 0.753 P/W = 0.517C/W = 0.072 V/W3 = 0.208

Elven StarAndrew Brown - May 2019

AIB004

RI = 2.30


5

Round Designs

6

RI = 2.30

AIB006

RI = 2.30

Comment:New angles for RI 2.16 to 2.35

Comment:New angles for RI 2.16 to 2.45Very small change to pavilion angles


radialRI range 1.61 to 2.35

L/W = 1.000 T/W = 0.513U/W = 0.513 P/W = 0.468C/W = 0.163 V/W3 = 0.225

LonghornsAndrew Brown - May 2019

AIB005



L/W = 1.020 T/W = 0.575U/W = 0.575 P/W = 0.478C/W = 0.142 V/W3 = 0.220

Andrew Brown - May 2019Tristar Brilliance

P1 37.19° C1 42.74°P2 46.70° C2 49.00°P3 36.44° C3 43.50°

C4 36.57°C5 35.04°

P1 44.47°P2 43.04°

7



L/W = 1.006 T/W = 0.545U/W = 0.518 P/W = 0.463C/W = 0.134 V/W3 = 0.219

AIB007

RI = 2.30


C1

C2C4

T

<96> 6

12

18

24

30

36

424854

60

66

72

78

84

90

LT

C

P

U

W P1

G1

G2

G3

P2

P4

P5


V/W^3 0.203 P/C 4.019


Shape Heart



Facet Data

G4P3

C3C3


G2[G3 41


Pavilion

Favourite Heart

AIB008

RI = 2.30

Comment:Cut with no changes to angles upto RI 2.45.

Around OddityAndrew Brown - May 2019



L/W = 1.020 T/W = 0.421U/W = 0.453 P/W = 0.453C/W = 0.143 V/W3 = 0.212

Seven StepsAndrew Brown - May 2019

8

RI = 2.30

AIB010

RI = 2.30

Comment:Cut with no changes to angles upto RI 2.45.


AIB009



L/W = 1.026 T/W = 0.492U/W = 0.479 P/W = 0.466C/W = 0.160 V/W3 = 0.227

Easy SevenAndrew Brown - May 2019



L/W = 1.000 T/W = 0.569U/W = 0.569 P/W = 0.445C/W = 0.177 V/W3 = 0.229

Broken HeartsAndrew Brown - May 2019

P1 42.00° C1 41.63°P2 40.80° C2 34.40°

C3 22.30°

9

AIB011

RI = 2.30


C1

C2C4

T

<96> 6

12

18

24

30

36

424854

60

66

72

78

84

90

LT

C

P

U

W P1

G1

G2

G3

P2

P4

P5


V/W^3 0.203 P/C 4.019


Shape Heart



Facet Data

G4P3

C3C3


G2[G3 41


Pavilion

Favourite Heart

AIB012

RI = 2.30




L/W = 1.000 T/W = 0.586U/W = 0.555 P/W = 0.571C/W = 0.150 V/W3 = 0.282

SupernovaAndrew Brown - May 2019



L/W = 1.051 T/W = 0.543U/W = 0.516 P/W = 0.457C/W = 0.149 V/W3 = 0.237

DepentastarAndrew Brown - May 2019

10

RI = 2.30

AIB014

RI = 2.30



AIB013

C1

C2C4

T

<96> 6

12

18

24

30

36

424854

60

66

72

78

84

90

LT

C

P

U

W P1

G1

G2

G3

P2

P4

P5


V/W^3 0.203 P/C 4.019


Shape Heart



Facet Data

G4P3

C3C3


G2[G3 41


Pavilion

Favourite Heart



L/W = 1.020 T/W = 0.497U/W = 0.480 P/W = 0.475C/W = 0.135 V/W3 = 0.221

Standard Seven 96Andrew Brown - May 2019



L/W = 1.000 T/W = 0.677U/W = 0.586 P/W = 0.565C/W = 0.115 V/W3 = 0.238

Warp Speed Andrew Brown - May 2019

11

AIB015

RI = 2.30


C1

C2C4

T

<96> 6

12

18

24

30

36

424854

60

66

72

78

84

90

LT

C

P

U

W P1

G1

G2

G3

P2

P4

P5


V/W^3 0.203 P/C 4.019


Shape Heart



Facet Data

G4P3

C3C3


G2[G3 41


Pavilion

Favourite Heart

AIB016

RI = 2.30




L/W = 1.003 T/W = 0.482U/W = 0.470 P/W = 0.462C/W = 0.150 V/W3 = 0.222

Twenty One Seven Andrew Brown - May 2019



L/W = 1.000 T/W = 0.464U/W = 0.464 P/W = 0.466C/W = 0.145 V/W3 = 0.216

TrifectancyAndrew Brown - May 2019

12

RI = 2.30

AIB018

RI = 2.30



AIB017

C1

C2C4

T

<96> 6

12

18

24

30

36

424854

60

66

72

78

84

90

LT

C

P

U

W P1

G1

G2

G3

P2

P4

P5


V/W^3 0.203 P/C 4.019


Shape Heart



Facet Data

G4P3

C3C3


G2[G3 41


Pavilion

Favourite Heart



L/W = 1.051 T/W = 0.396U/W = 0.0.377 P/W = 0.468C/W = 0.183 V/W3 = 0.244

DecadenceAndrew Brown - May 2019

Design InformationPavilion facets 24

Girdle facets 12

Crown facets 15+1

Total facets 52

Index gear 96

Symmetry 3-fold


L/W = 1.000 T/W = 0.667

U/W = 0.627 P/W = 0.541

Fractal FlowAndrew Brown - May 2019

13

AIB019

RI = 2.30


C1

C2C4

T

<96> 6

12

18

24

30

36

424854

60

66

72

78

84

90

LT

C

P

U

W P1

G1

G2

G3

P2

P4

P5


V/W^3 0.203 P/C 4.019


Shape Heart



Facet Data

G4P3

C3C3


G2[G3 41


Pavilion

Favourite Heart

AIB020

RI = 2.30



mirrorRI range 1.54 to 2.45

L/W = 1.000 T/W = 0.691U/W = 0.599 P/W = 0.474C/W = 0.108 V/W3 = 0.226

Thermal UpliftAndrew Brown - May 2019



L/W = 1.015 T/W = 0.560U/W = 0.551 P/W = 0.491C/W = 0.121 V/W3 = 0.217

SimplicityAndrew Brown - May 2019

14

Square Designs

15

RI = 2.30

AIB022

RI = 2.30



AIB021

C1

C2C4

T

<96> 6

12

18

24

30

36

424854

60

66

72

78

84

90

LT

C

P

U

W P1

G1

G2

G3

P2

P4

P5


V/W^3 0.203 P/C 4.019


Shape Heart



Facet Data

G4P3

C3C3


G2[G3 41


Pavilion

Favourite Heart



L/W = 1.000 T/W = 0.476U/W = 0.470 P/W = 0.470C/W = 0.158 V/W3 = 0.238

Neon LightsAndrew Brown - May 2019



L/W = 1.000 T/W = 0.553U/W = 0.553 P/W = 0.552C/W = 0.154 V/W3 = 0.305

Classic FusionAndrew Brown - May 2019

C1 31.94°C2 35.56°C3 28.78°C4 25.93°

16

AIB023

RI = 2.30


C1

C2C4

T

<96> 6

12

18

24

30

36

424854

60

66

72

78

84

90

LT

C

P

U

W P1

G1

G2

G3

P2

P4

P5


V/W^3 0.203 P/C 4.019


Shape Heart



Facet Data

G4P3

C3C3


G2[G3 41


Pavilion

Favourite Heart

AIB024

RI = 2.30




L/W = 1.000 T/W = 0.496U/W = 0.496 P/W = 0.560C/W = 0.164 V/W3 = 0.303

Fusion 49Andrew Brown - May 2019



L/W = 1.000 T/W = 0.539U/W = 0.539 P/W = 0.575C/W = 0.172 V/W3 = 0.365

Quadraoptic WeaveAndrew Brown - May 2019

17

RI = 2.30

AIB026

RI = 2.30



AIB025

C1

C2C4

T

<96> 6

12

18

24

30

36

424854

60

66

72

78

84

90

LT

C

P

U

W P1

G1

G2

G3

P2

P4

P5


V/W^3 0.203 P/C 4.019


Shape Heart



Facet Data

G4P3

C3C3


G2[G3 41


Pavilion

Favourite Heart

C1

C2C4

T

<96> 6

12

18

24

30

36

424854

60

66

72

78

84

90

LT

C

P

U

W P1

G1

G2

G3

P2

P4

P5


V/W^3 0.203 P/C 4.019


Shape Heart



Facet Data

G4P3

C3C3


G2[G3 41


Pavilion

Favourite Heart



L/W = 1.000 T/W = 0.482U/W = 0.482 P/W = 0.549C/W = 0.155 V/W3 = 0.308

Pirate TreasureAndrew Brown - May 2019



L/W = 1.000 T/W = 0.531U/W = 0.531 P/W = 0.508C/W = 0.129 V/W3 = 0.237

Breezy CushionAndrew Brown - May 2019

18

AIB027

RI = 2.30




L/W = 1.000 T/W = 0.540U/W = 0.540 P/W = 0.567C/W = 0.201 V/W3 = 0.358

Birthday BoxAndrew Brown - May 2019

19

Heart Designs

20

RI = 2.30

AIB033

RI = 2.30



AIB032



L/W = 1.018 T/W = 0.630U/W = 0.587 P/W = 0.471C/W = 0.117 V/W3 = 0.203

HeartbeatAndrew Brown - May 2019



L/W = 1.018 T/W = 0.609U/W = 0.609 P/W = 0.505C/W = 0.110 V/W3 = 0.198

Soul RhythmAndrew Brown - May 2019

21

Trillion Designs

22

RI = 2.30

AIB029

RI = 2.30



AIB028



L/W = 1.015 T/W = 0.624U/W = 0.581 P/W = 0.466C/W = 0.116 V/W3 = 0.195

Andrew Brown - May 2019Cosmic Mix



L/W = 1.002 T/W = 0.516U/W = 0.447 P/W = 0.496C/W = 0.126 V/W3 = 0.180

Time PortalAndrew Brown - May 2019

23

AIB030

RI = 2.30


AIB031

RI = 2.30




L/W = 1.021 T/W = 0609U/W = 0.609 P/W = 0.505C/W = 0.110 V/W3 = 0.200

Tristar ImpactAndrew Brown - May 2019



L/W = 1.019 T/W = 0.529U/W = 0.501 P/W = 0.519C/W = 0.144 V/W3 = 0.249

Andrew Brown - May 2019

Eternal Protection

24

Pear Designs

25

RI = 2.30

AIB035

RI = 2.30


Comment:Cut with angles for 2.16 upto RI 2.45

AIB034



L/W = 1.060 T/W = 0.677U/W = 0.653 P/W = 0.489C/W = 0.124 V/W3 = 0.222

Sweet Strawberry Andrew Brown - May 2019



L/W = 1.315 T/W = 0.763U/W = 0.503 P/W = 0.523C/W = 0.116 V/W3 = 0.292

Light BulbAndrew Brown - May 2019

26

AIB036

RI = 2.30




L/W = 1.089 T/W = 0.632U/W = 0.632 P/W = 0.546C/W = 0.114 V/W3 = 0.230

Starry Starry PearAndrew Brown - May 2019

27

Oval Designs

28

RI = 2.30

AIB038

RI = 2.30



AIB037



L/W = 1.192 T/W = 0.841U/W = 0.614 P/W = 0.574C/W = 0.136 V/W3 = 0.315

Xoval 1.19Andrew Brown - May 2019



L/W = 1.234 T/W = 0.802U/W = 0.579 P/W = 0.566C/W = 0.161 V/W3 = 0.330

Stepovaler 1.23Andrew Brown - May 2019

29

AIB039

RI = 2.30


AIB040

RI = 2.30




L/W = 1.118 T/W = 0.598U/W = 0.547 P/W = 0.527C/W = 0.163 V/W3 = 0.291

Andrew Brown - May 2019Fusion Seven Oval 1.12


mirrorRI range 1.54 to 2.45

L/W = 1.190 T/W = 0.572U/W = 0.473 P/W = 0.563C/W = 0.170 V/W3 = 0.334

Fusion Seven Oval 1.19Andrew Brown - May 2019

30

RI = 2.30

AIB042

RI = 2.30



AIB041



L/W = 1.304 T/W = 0.727U/W = 0.616 P/W = 0.618C/W = 0.143 V/W3 = 0.376


Fusion Seven Oval 1.30



L/W = 1.428 T/W = 0.766U/W = 0.492 P/W = 0.669C/W = 0.177 V/W3 = 0.460

Fusion Seven Oval 1.43Andrew Brown - May 2019

31

AIB043

RI = 2.30


AIB044

RI = 2.30




L/W = 1.093 T/W = 0.664U/W = 0.588 P/W = 0.506C/W = 0.152 V/W3 = 0.376


Fusion Nine Oval 1.10



L/W = 1.175 T/W = 0.699U/W = 0.559 P/W = 0.528C/W = 0.147 V/W3 = 0.301

Fusion Nine Oval 1.18Andrew Brown - May 2019

32

RI = 2.30

AIB046

RI = 2.30



AIB045



L/W = 1.319 T/W = 0.861U/W = 0.558 P/W = 0.621C/W = 0.157 V/W3 = 0.383

Andrew Brown - May 2019Fusion Nine Oval 1.32



L/W = 1.421 T/W = 0.862U/W = 0.620 P/W = 0.642C/W = 0.157 V/W3 = 0.440

Fusion Nine Oval 1.42Andrew Brown - May 2019

33

Rectangular Designs

34

RI = 2.30

AIB048

RI = 2.30



AIB047



L/W = 1.237 T/W = 0.665U/W = 0.510 P/W = 0.653C/W = 0.179 V/W3 = 0.482

Timeless GiftAndrew Brown - May 2019



L/W = 1.163 T/W = 0.658U/W = 0.458 P/W = 0.623C/W = 0.166 V/W3 = 0.403

Andrew Brown - May 2019Lace Pillow

35

AIB049

RI = 2.30


AIB050

RI = 2.30




L/W = 2.015 T/W = 0.423U/W = 0.381 P/W = 0.597C/W = 0.196 V/W3 = 0.909

Starlight DivideAndrew Brown - May 2019



L/W = 1.163 T/W = 0.724U/W = 0.551 P/W = 0.618C/W = 0.148 V/W3 = 0.392

Andrew Brown - May 2019Sweet Dreams

36

RI = 2.30

AIB052

RI = 2.30



AIB051



L/W = 1.210 T/W = 0.550U/W = 0.550 P/W = 0.649C/W = 0.183 V/W3 = 0.484

Magic CarpetAndrew Brown - May 2019



L/W = 1.212 T/W = 0.632U/W = 0.440 P/W = 0.565C/W = 0.170 V/W3 = 0.366

Andrew Brown - May 2019Easy Fusion Rect Cushion

37

Hexagonal Designs

38

RI = 2.30

AIB054

RI = 2.30



AIB053



L/W = 1.155 T/W = 0.683U/W = 0.591 P/W = 0.572C/W = 0.142 V/W3 = 0.307

Hexamesh Andrew Brown - May 2019



L/W = 1.155 T/W = 0.500U/W = 0.433 P/W = 0.535C/W = 0.175 V/W3 = 0.309


Hexafusion Seven

39

RI = 2.30


AIB055



L/W = 1.155 T/W = 0.567U/W = 0.491 P/W = 0.464C/W = 0.131 V/W3 = 0.245

TrivergenceAndrew Brown - May 2019

40

Other Designs

41

RI = 2.30

AIB057

RI = 2.30



AIB056



L/W = 1.276 T/W = 0.811U/W = 0.542 P/W = 0.587C/W = 0.171 V/W3 = 0.398

Diamond NineAndrew Brown - May 2019



L/W = 1.298 T/W = 0.825U/W = 0.500 P/W = 0.609C/W = 0.131 V/W3 = 0.317

StargazingAndrew Brown - May 2019

42

RI = 2.30


AIB058



L/W = 1.00 T/W = 0.558U/W = 0.558 P/W = 0.520C/W = 0.106 V/W3 = 0.245


Octafusion Nine

a collection of my best gemstone faceting designs … · 2020. 6. 5. · all renderings are using...

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